From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1192
Date: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 9:20 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. looking for sioux falls, SD owner
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. RE: Rear Wheel Bearings (was "What harm does . . .")
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

5. RE: question on pulling an engine, HELP!
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

6. RE: question on pulling an engine, HELP!
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

7. Protecting the DeLorean Image.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

8. Automatic Transmission
From: klaus-peter.steiner_at_dml_rweplus.com

9. Re: Rear Wheel Bearings (was "What harm does . . .")
From: "Shain Brannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

10. Re: question on pulling an engine, HELP!
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

11. RE: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

12. Re: Rear Wheel Bearings (was "What harm does . . .")
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

13. RE: Protecting the DeLorean Image.
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>

14. Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Electronic Guru's please help!
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

16. Re: Moderator's note
From: "_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com" <_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Protecting the DeLorean Image.
From: "txgrnbrt" <txgrnbrt_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Rear Wheel Bearing
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: question on pulling an engine, HELP!
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

20. Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare
From: silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com

21. Rear Wheel Bearings
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie_at_dml_PNDC.org>

22. RE: Electronic Guru's please help!
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

23. Re: Electronic Guru's please help!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

24. Re: Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

25. question on pulling an engine, Thank you everyone!!!! Shes out!
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 00:34:31 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???

Stephane I suggest you try and fix your stuck distributor.

Mine was stuck too and I was advised to soak it in acetone overnight - careful with that
O-ring - remove it first! However this turned out not to be necessary, and we managed to
pull the plunger out with pliers, then re-lube and it floated fine thereafter.

It can't hurt to try anyway

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458

vin2450 wrote:

> I found out the hard way the fuel distributor plunger was
> siezed, so I had a spare one that was supplied with the car when I
> bought it.




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 20:31:18 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???

In a message dated 9/9/02 6:22:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> I found out the hard way the fuel distributor plunger was 
> siezed, so I had a spare one that was supplied with the car when I 
> bought it.  The car started but had to much fuel pressure, more 
> testing found that the pressure regulator was no good so it was 
> replaced.  Now the car starts but it has a noticable miss to it, I 
> checked compression and it checks out fine across the board.  Some 
> more testing found that #1 and #4cyl was not getting fuel from the 
> distributor.  I double checked the fuel distributor part #'s and 
> found that the original one was 0 438 100 109 and the one that I 
> replaced it with is 0 438 100 114.  They hook up the same, but for 
> some reson #1 and #4 are dry.  I did find out that part # 0 438 100 
> 114 fits an early 4cyl turbo model and that #1 and #4 are blocked 
> with plugs in this aplication,  if this is the case can anyone tell 
> me if there is a fix for this without opening the distributor?  Any 
> help in this matter would be great.  Thanks for you info 
> 

Stephane,

first of all, you cannot interchange parts between fuel distributers, 
especially the metal plunger.  it is a machined match to your original 
distributer and cannot be swapped, since they are a matched pair.  also you 
really gotta get the right fuel distributer.  you can get a rebuilt one for 
about $500 from DMCHouston, and i bet Grady has a used one somewhere for 
cheaper than a new one.  you need to get this straightened out before you 
start replacing other expensive parts!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 20:35:10 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: looking for sioux falls, SD owner

Hey all,

i'm searching for the owner of a DeLorean in the sioux falls area of South 
Dakota.  it was brought to my attention this weekend that someone is running 
around in one!  apparently they are a DMC Houston customer.  that's about all 
i know.  if they could contact me off-list, that would be great.  i am from 
Fargo, ND.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:53:47 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Rear Wheel Bearings (was "What harm does . . .")

Mike,

How many miles were on the car when the wheel bearings failed?

Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Substelny [mailto:msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 1:43 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Rear Wheel Bearings (was "What harm does . . .")


Dave Stragand wrote:

> <SNIP>
> 2) Another incorrect claim of DMC unreliability: There are many quotes
saying how common it is for rear wheel bearings to go out as well, which
I've never heard anyone mention on this list.  Has anyone ever had a rear
wheel bearing suddenly blow out?  They quoted a supposed "other DeLorean
owner" who said it's an "extremely common occurance" for the DMC.

For the record, both of my rear wheel bearing failed just a few months after
I got my DeLorean.  The first one failed while I was driving on the highway,
which caused the back end to start wobbling.  After an hour of wobbling at
highway speed the second bearing failed, and the wobble became very
dangerous.

I agree that it is very rare, but rear wheel bearing failures are possible.

If I ever experience another rear wheel bearing failure I will stop driving
the car ASAP.  You really need a hydraulic press to change the bearings.
Between the harrowing drive and the repair, I don't want to go through that
again!

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 21:16:53 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: question on pulling an engine, HELP!

Todd - Simple question, a pain in the butt answer...

I would guess that you are hanging up on the input shaft
to the gearbox.  This shaft runs from the pilot bearing
in the end of the crankshaft, through the clutch, and is
splined into the primary shaft of the gearbox.  You
have a couple of choices - bolt the engine and gearbox
back together and take them out as a unit, remove the
rear fascia to get enough room to clear the input shaft,
or try to move the gearbox forward enough to clear
the shaft.  Personally, I think your best choice is to
bolt the two back together and pull the whole works.
Sometimes when cars have been bolted together this long,
the shaft can get bound up in the pilot bearing and
be a real bear to separate in the car.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Vin 5386 [mailto:delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 6:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] question on pulling an engine, HELP!


Simple question for everyone expierenced in pulling an
engine, humor me please. I have unbolted my engine
from the trans  this includes all 4 engine to trans
mounting bolts and the 3 bolts for the starter. all
hoses are discnnected. but what I'm running into is
that I seem to be hanging up. the engine wont pull
free from the trans body. can this be related to the
clutch and throw off bearing? I think I missed a step
in here. can anyone help? the engine is loose it's
about an inch or less away from the trans at this
point.

Todd
Vin5386

__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 22:35:31 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: question on pulling an engine, HELP!

Did you remove the splash shield at the bottom?  If you leave this on the flywheel is still trapped in the bell housing.


-----Original Message-----
From: Vin 5386 [mailto:delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 7:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] question on pulling an engine, HELP!


Simple question for everyone expierenced in pulling an
engine, humor me please. I have unbolted my engine
from the trans  this includes all 4 engine to trans
mounting bolts and the 3 bolts for the starter. all
hoses are discnnected. but what I'm running into is
that I seem to be hanging up. the engine wont pull
free from the trans body. can this be related to the
clutch and throw off bearing? I think I missed a step
in here. can anyone help? the engine is loose it's
about an inch or less away from the trans at this
point.



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 04:58:09 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Protecting the DeLorean Image.

[MODERATOR NOTE:  Please note the Subject Line of this post.  Discussions of the DeLorean's marque image are welcome.  Further speculation about the laws of thermodynamics are not.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

I don't mean to insult anyone with this post, so please don't take this the wrong 
way. I'm not out to offend.

But I can't get over the fact that the general concensus is that no 
one wants a DeLorean to appear in a video game that "...contains rather 
controversial material that they (the car) didn't want to be associated with." But 
when it comes to someone trying to promote yet another invention that will 
no doubt be ridiculed by quite a few people, and will itself become a joke, 
while taking the image of the car down along with it... Well, that seems to be 
acceptable.

It is times like this I envy Ferrari owners for one thing they have 
that we don't. It's not the power of their cars, not the styling, and not even the 
value. It's the fact that just as they have a network of mechanics to keep their 
car's in tune, so does Ferrari have a team of laywers to keep the image of their 
marque showing proper.

Now I'm not trying to be prude here. In fact I'd like to think that 
I have a liberal attitude when it comes to customizing DeLoreans to appear as 
individual the owners themselves. But I have to draw the line here when it 
comes to how our cars should be portrayed. I am far from pleased to find that 
to attract people to a quack experiment, this man is playing off the attactive 
image, and charm of the DeLorean. But then to save face for a failed 
"experiment", our car becomes a scapegoat to be blamed for a mechanical 
failure.

In short, we cannot have this type of thing affecting our cars. This is more than 
just simple negative publicity, it is outright abuse of the marque. As a whole, 
we should take a responsability to put a stop to these kind negative portrayals 
of our cars. Do you want to stop the negative jokes and comments? Then stop 
the source of them. Do you want to increase the value of our cars? The put a 
halt to these kind of people who damage our cars' values and reputation 
simply for cheap, personal gain.

Everyone here can lend a hand. If you see a magazine with an article or 
mention that contains either negative or incorrect information about our cars, 
then notify everyone, and write in letters to the editor showing disapproval. 
You see a TV program that does the same, write the TV stations, and/or the 
producers. remember, owner or not, everyone here shares this same interest, 
and holds the same stakes.

What I propose to do here would be to contact his critics. A positive DeLorean 
image would help to fuel those that do not share his same viewpoints, and 
wish to publish them. A little info passed on to the proper sources could do a 
great deal of work for us. Let's try and focus the negative attention away from 
the car itself, and onto this "invention".

Just my 2 cents for now. But I've got a whole roll or pennies where that came 
from! ;-p

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



Fellow DMCer's,
I attended the track testing of the electric Delorean this AM. To 
answer 
everyone's question, yes it is real! Bobby Allison drove the first 
two laps. 
The car developed according to the owner Carl Tilley "noise from 
driver's 
side rear axle bearing" so it only went 13 laps at a track that is 
1.3 miles 
around. However he was nice enough to allow a few people access to 
the 
car up 
close. What this man has done with his Delorean is up there with 
Bob B. 
and 
Curtis. 
<SNIP>
Bruce Battles
Vin # 06569





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:20:30 +0200
From: klaus-peter.steiner_at_dml_rweplus.com
Subject: Automatic Transmission

Mark Hershey, your email doesn't work.
If you are on the list, please email me private.
Klaus.Steiner(at)t-online.de  or Klaus-peter.Steiner(at)rweplus.com

Thank you 



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:05:30 -0000
From: "Shain Brannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Bearings (was "What harm does . . .")

Hello,

Last week i caled Rob Grady to talk to him about a clunking noise i 
heard every so often yet i couldn't find anything wrong with any of 
the rear suspension parts.  He was telling me how the orgional 
bearings aren't built as well as the new replacements and cause that 
clunking noise.  For the record though, this clunking has nothing to 
do with a failure.  Just fyi

- Shain
#10140




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 02:10:19 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: question on pulling an engine, HELP!

Your transmission is "attached" to your engine at the clutch.  The input
shaft of the transmission goes through a hole in the pressure plate, and
slides into the clutch (on a spline).  When I pulled my engine, I
disconnected the transmission from the car (and engine, obviously) and
moved it forward until the shaft came off out of the clutch.  I would
guess this distance is about 2-3 inches.  I am not sure if you can slide
the engine far enough rearward in order to clear the transmission with it
still attached to the car...

Jim 1537


On Mon, 9 Sep 2002 16:02:26 -0700 (PDT) Vin 5386
<delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com> writes:
> Simple question for everyone expierenced in pulling an
> engine, humor me please. I have unbolted my engine
> from the trans  this includes all 4 engine to trans
> mounting bolts and the 3 bolts for the starter. all
> hoses are discnnected. but what I'm running into is
> that I seem to be hanging up. the engine wont pull
> free from the trans body. can this be related to the
> clutch and throw off bearing? I think I missed a step
> in here. can anyone help? the engine is loose it's
> about an inch or less away from the trans at this
> point.
> 
> Todd
> Vin5386
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
> http://finance.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:11:02 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???

Might I suggest taking this opportunity to convert to EFI??

True, you have already dumped a good deal of money in to your current fuel system, but a new fuel distributor will be expensive.  While I agree with others that a properly maintained stock fuel system will be reliable, given the choice to spend money to replace the stock distributor or covert to EFI, EFI is the way to go.

The EFI system is much less complex and more reliable.  There are also possible benefits of fuel economy and performance.

See the archives for discussions on EFI conversions.  If you want to do EFI for a reasonable cost, check out the "Megasquirt"  (google search).


In a message dated 9/9/02 6:22:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

> I found out the hard way the fuel distributor plunger was 
> siezed, so I had a spare one that was supplied with the car when I 
> bought it.  The car started but had to much fuel pressure, more 
> testing found that the pressure regulator was no good so it was 
> replaced.  Now the car starts but it has a noticable miss to it, I 
> checked compression and it checks out fine across the board.  Some 
> more testing found that #1 and #4cyl was not getting fuel from the 
> distributor.  I double checked the fuel distributor part #'s and 
> found that the original one was 0 438 100 109 and the one that I 
> replaced it with is 0 438 100 114.  They hook up the same, but for 
> some reson #1 and #4 are dry.  I did find out that part # 0 438 100 
> 114 fits an early 4cyl turbo model and that #1 and #4 are blocked 
> with plugs in this aplication,  if this is the case can anyone tell 
> me if there is a fix for this without opening the distributor?  Any 
> help in this matter would be great.  Thanks for you info 



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:14:11 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Bearings (was "What harm does . . .")

Scott Mueller wrote:

> Mike,
>
> How many miles were on the car when the wheel bearings failed?

About 40,000.  But I am sure the failures were due to my own incompetence rather than
normal wear.  I had acquired the car recently, and it was my first experience with
non-steel wheels.  I believe that I undertightened the lugnuts on one wheel.   The loose
wheel caused a couple of studs to sheer.  Soon afterward the first bearing failed, then
the second.

- Mike "learned the hard way" Substelny




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:56:10 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>
Subject: RE: Protecting the DeLorean Image.

Man this is silly, really silly here.  Why is everyone getting so worked
up about this "inventor" or the usage of a DeLorean in a Video Game?  I
could go on all day reading off the cars that have been used in Video
Games, and all seem to be in a good light, including the DeLorean.  I
have not seen a game where they took the time to make a reproduction of
a car to be silly.  

Don't you think that owners of a 70's Firebird don't get Bandit jokes?
Do not owners of a 1996 BMW z3 get James Bond comments.  How about
Herbie the Love Bug?  DeLoreans would not be as popular today had it not
been used in BTTF.  They would be in the area of the Bricklin (I am sure
there are Bricklin owners here, but if you mention it to 100 people on
the street, most will never have heard of the car but mention the
DeLorean and/or BTTF and look out).  But I don't remember seeing anyone
cracking jokes to me about D-rex, or the Hover conversion, or the
convertible "D".  These are all unique versions of our car.  Some people
might call it bastardization, some call it cool as heck (I fall on the
side of coolness myself).     

As far as the "electric" DeLorean, anyone silly enough to look at it as
a defamation of character really needs to look at this form a different
angle.  What better a car to use than a futuristic Stainless Steel car
to use in his "presentation".  The looks alone make you almost believe
it's possible.  It is all marketing here, and we should be proud he
choose it.  Not proud of the "engineering" he did or lack of.  But proud
that of all the cars out there to pawn off as a perpetual motion
machine, he chose not a Viper, Prowler, Porsche, Ferrari, Model "T",
Beetle, or even a 1992 Ford Escort but a DeLorean.

Just my 2 cents, I just woke up and might be a bit groggy, but man, I
just couldn't read any more about damaging the marquee of the DeLorean
because some shmuk was using on as a scam.  In 3 months, no one will
ever remember this guy ever did this, except a few people in
Nashville... Maybe...

Jack  & Virginia Stiefel http://www.sacketmansion.com
1981 DeLorean Vin 3461 August 1981 Build
1988 Jaguar XJ-SC V-12
Community Radio in the 1000 Islands.  104.9 Radio Cape Vincent
http://www.radiocapevincent.com



-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 12:58 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Protecting the DeLorean Image.

>
> I don't mean to insult anyone with this post, so please don't take this
> the wrong way. I'm not out to offend.
>
> But I can't get over the fact that the general concensus is that no 
> one wants a DeLorean to appear in a video game that "...contains rather 
> controversial material that they (the car) didn't want to be associated
> with." But when it comes to someone trying to promote yet another
> invention that will no doubt be ridiculed by quite a few people, and
> will itself become a joke, while taking the image of the car down along
> with it... Well, that seems to be acceptable.

[very long quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 14:03:08 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???

The fuel distributers are set up specficaly for each application. 
While they may look similar from the outside there are differences 
inside, different metering orifices, fuel ratios, spring pressures, 
etc. You MUST go by the part #'s and you really need to use the 
correct one for the particular application. This is not to say that if 
you know what you are doing you couldn't modify one part # into 
another but to do that you must know the differences and have the 
nachining skills to change it (not recommended). You will probably 
never get the car to run right with the wrong fuel distributer.
 On another subject, with all of the problems you are having with your 
fuel system you probably need to pull your fuel injectors and have 
them cleaned. Since you found so much dirt in the rest of the system 
it makes sense that it is also in the fuel injectors. A Delorean 
vender can do that for you or a Volvo dealer as they have the 
cleaner-tester. How "fine" can the engine run on 4 out of 6 cylinders? 
My guess is you are just beginning, you have to fix all of the vacuum 
leaks you probably have and then a tune-up before it will run right. 
While you are at it you are going to find out you will have to do a 
complete service on the cooling system replacing all belts, hoses, 
seals, waterpump etc. I also recommend you change ALL of the fluids 
including brake fluid and trans fluid.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Are there any idea's or thoughts on what my cause this?  the car is 
> an 1981 with an automatic tranny. 
> 
> Here is my problem, the car was stored for the past ten years full 
of 
> fuel.  What a mess to clean, the tank even had stuff growing in it. 
 
> Anyways I removed the fuel tank and had it professionaly cleaned,  
> the lines inside were changed as well as the pump, the pump 
> boot,bracket and cover(all purchased threw specialtauto).  Then I 
> changed the accumalator and fuel filter.  I tried to start the car 
> but had no power at the fuel pump, a little more testing found a bad 
> fuel pump relay, so it was replaced. Now I had fuel but the car 
would 
> not start. I found out the hard way the fuel distributor plunger was 
> siezed, so I had a spare one that was supplied with the car when I 
> bought it.  The car started but had to much fuel pressure, more 
> testing found that the pressure regulator was no good so it was 
> replaced.  Now the car starts but it has a noticable miss to it, I 
> checked compression and it checks out fine across the board.  Some 
> more testing found that #1 and #4cyl was not getting fuel from the 
> distributor.  I double checked the fuel distributor part #'s and 
> found that the original one was 0 438 100 109 and the one that I 
> replaced it with is 0 438 100 114.  They hook up the same, but for 
> some reson #1 and #4 are dry.  I did find out that part # 0 438 100 
> 114 fits an early 4cyl turbo model and that #1 and #4 are blocked 
> with plugs in this aplication,  if this is the case can anyone tell 
> me if there is a fix for this without opening the distributor?  Any 
> help in this matter would be great.  Thanks for you info 
> 
> stephane vin2450




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:44:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Electronic Guru's please help!

 All hail! (just kidding) Ok.. My passenger door, when locked or unlocked, will lock/unlock the driver side door as well. Just like it should.however the Driver side door won't tell the passenger door to lock/unlock.where should I start diagnostic? Or might someone know exactly what is fried? ***Oil change place yesterday evening -- "Hey bob, the reason we couldn't find the filter is cause the engines in back!!"***they were under the car for god's sakeTHANKS!!!!-James La Londe1981 Delorean DMC-12 vin#001697 LicPlate DMC XII1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 8001992 Ford Probe GT--- On Sun 09/08, Joe Bachmann &lt; joe.bachmann_at_dml_newmail.net &gt; wrote:From: Joe Bachmann [mailto: joe.bachmann_at_dml_newmail.net]To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.comDate: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 05:51:15 -0500Subject: Re: [DML] What is a Diode?To check the diode, use and ohm meter. On way should be infinite resistance, the other a short. Some meter will have a diode check function. You can also use that in the same manner. The band around one side of the diode is the negative side. A good diode will read a short (ora junction drop with a diode tester) when connected correctly. It will be infinite when backwards.Otherwise, if you don't have an ohm meter: Connect a 12v lamp in series with the diode. Try placing it both ways across a 12v dc source. It should light up one direction and not the other. If it lights up both ways or neither way it is bad.If you need more help, email me privately and I will be glad to help you out.JBBDM wrote:&gt; My passenger door wiring has no power. I have removed the T-Panel on the top and cleaned the roof plugs. I have verified continuity from the roof plugs to the door harness wiring. I have verified the wiring continuity from the door light switch to the lights in the door.&gt;&gt; I have a wiring diagram and I suspect that the diode in the circuit is faulty. However, I do not know where it is located nor what it looks like. How do I check the diode and are the difficult to diagnose?To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.comTo search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:31:37 -0000
From: "_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com" <_designer__at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Moderator's note

For discussions that get a little "off-topic", might I suggest 
posting at:
http://www.humansinprogress.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?fid=6

I appreciate the conciseness of the Yahoo DML, but would also like to 
hear what people are thinking...  Thanks Mike:)


> [MODERATOR NOTE: I have already rejected a large number of posts
> speculating about Tilley's "black box" because they are not
> relevant to the DML's mission.  The subject of this post, however,
> is relevant.  Note that I *will* reject posts that simply agree
> with Dave Stragand's opinion without adding anything new.   - Mike
> Substelny, DML moderator of the week]




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:52:41 -0000
From: "txgrnbrt" <txgrnbrt_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Protecting the DeLorean Image.

No offense, but I disagree with Robert on this Tilley discussion.

First of all, Tilley bought the car and can do anything he wants with 
it -- and that includes making money from it - this IS America! The 
Delorean is a strong enough marque to overcome any and all adversity; 
remember the cocaine horn jokes? I predict that all the notoriety our 
cars have been given through the years will do nothing more than 
increase their value. We have very low production numbers going for 
us; and every year those numbers decrease due to totals, etc.

I have several collector cars, including a '57 classic T-Bird- and 
there were 21,000 of them made in the '57 model year alone! Compared 
with our production numbers of about 8,000 it's easy to see what the 
future will hold for a Delorean that's maintained.

Is Tilley's electric Delorean the real deal? Wish it was, but 
probably not -- he stated that he was going to use an SUV next time-
we'll see.

If it is a phoney, the the car will eventually either be reassembled 
or sold for parts ---- either way it will benefit someone who loves a 
Delorean.






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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 18:01:53 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Bearing

My car has had the right rear wheel bearing fail. Or rather start to 
fail.. it started making wobble noise about a month ago and is 
getting steadily louder. It hasnt effected the actual movement of the 
car yet. I just recieved my new bearing from Darryl Tinnerstet, will 
install it next weekend.

Adam 16683




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 19:09:26 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: question on pulling an engine, HELP!

Todd - I had a similar occurrence while changing my clutch ... only I 
was dropping the tranny out the bottom.  There are two bolts that 
attach a cover plate to the tranny housing, but the cover plate is aft 
of the flywheel, so the tranny comes away from the engine until the 
cover plate bottoms out on the flywheel.  The cover plate is on the 
driver's side, and the bolts are very difficult to get to.  One of 
them can't be seen.  I hope that helps.

Toby peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1  

 
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 6:02 PM

> in here. can anyone help? the engine is loose it's
> about an inch or less away from the trans at this
> point.





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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:29:04 EDT
From: silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare

Hey guys I am looking for a used or new aftermarket or original windsheild in 
nice shape with no cracks. Anyone have an extra that they wanna sell. I am in 
need of one and looking to save a little before i have to go to one of the 
vendors. I figured I would look around a bit first.

thanks
jon


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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 13:16:09 -0700
From: "Arnie Brandon" <Arnie_at_dml_PNDC.org>
Subject: Rear Wheel Bearings

I have had both rear wheel bearings replaced upon starting to hear
humming/grinding noises in the rear corners.
Left wheel bearing 9-22-99 47,534 miles.  Right bearing 3-12-02 52,939
miles.  Vin 6292 since 10-19-82.
Arnie




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:31:56 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Electronic Guru's please help!

Maybe the solenoid in the passenger door is bad?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: James La Londe [mailto:deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 11:44 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Electronic Guru's please help!
> 
> 
>  All hail! (just kidding) Ok.. My passenger door, when locked 
> or unlocked, will lock/unlock the driver side door as well. 
> Just like it should.however the Driver side door won't tell 
> the passenger door to lock/unlock.where should I start 
> diagnostic? Or might someone know exactly what is fried? 
> 



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:17:00 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Electronic Guru's please help!

...or the contacts in the drivers door need cleaning. Put your ear to the lock module and
get someone to lock/unlock the drivers door. If you hear a clicking, then Marc's right.
If not, then I'm right :-)

Martin
#1458

"Marc A. Levy" wrote:

> Maybe the solenoid in the passenger door is bad?




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:32:02 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare

It cross references to a Lotus Esprit apparently. Over here you can buy it from a 3rd
party manufacturer brand new (not NOS) for under 300.

I haven't checked but you might find a supplier on the links page at

www.espritfactfile.com (it's a US site)

Martin
#1458

silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com wrote:

> Hey guys I am looking for a used or new aftermarket or original windsheild in
> nice shape with no cracks. Anyone have an extra that they wanna sell. I am in
> need of one and looking to save a little before i have to go to one of the
> vendors. I figured I would look around a bit first.
>
> thanks
> jon




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:15:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: question on pulling an engine, Thank you everyone!!!! Shes out!

EUREKA! 
The engine is now out! It all comes down to the
protector plate behind the starter. once I slid the
starter off I saw the plate. the plate was a little
snug but with a little wiggel it poped off and the
engine slid forward seconds after, good thing I had
the engine hoise attached. the plate on the drivers
side is missing and the plate underneath that protects
the flyweel is also gone, interesting point here is
there seems to of been some frustration on the part of
a mechanic at some point. the plate was broken off
leaving all 4 studs still attached. 

The engine slid out with no problem, never even broke
a sweat, cleared the bell houseing with no problem. No
hangups this time. they were sneaky with that plate
hehe. unfortunetly the right engine mount was
deteriorated and fell apart upon removal. the rubber
seperated from the metal part that cradels the engine
block. thats the only casulty so far.

Thank you everyone for all your great advice! Everyone
was right on the money. I love the DML, without it I'd
be scratching my head and frustrated. Thank you
Everybody!!!!!!

Todd
Vin5386

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