From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1194
Date: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 9:41 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Car show in NJ on 9/22
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

2. sunstar delorean question
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

3. Something else to start a fire
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. Head assemblies
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com

5. Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Speedometer cable question
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

7. Re: Head assemblies
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. Re: Speedometer cable question
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Something else to start a fire
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Electronic Guru's please help!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Something else to start a fire (fire cleanup)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

12. RE: Something else to start a fire
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

13. Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

14. Re: Electronic Guru's please help!
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

15. Re: Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

16. Re: Digest Number 1193
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

17. Re: Head assemblies
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

18. Re: Protecting the DeLorean Image.
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: Head assemblies
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com

20. Re: Something else to start a fire
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Head assemblies
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

22. Re: Re: Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: Something else to start a fire
From: Joe Bachmann <joe.bachmann_at_dml_newmail.net>

24. Re: Head assemblies
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

25. RE: Car show in NJ on 9/22
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:45:29 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Car show in NJ on 9/22

Anyone interested in attending a car show in Chester NJ on Sunday Sept.
22?
 
If you don't know where Chester is, it is just off of Rt 206  1/2 way
between Rt 287 and Rt 80.
 
It is an old town FILLED with antique shops, boutiques, etc.. (lots of
stuff for the significant other to do!...FOR HOURS!)
 
They are going to block off the main street of town for the show,and it
promises to be really nice!   I was at a car show tonight, and they
begged me to bring my Delorean.  When I mentioned I might be able to get
some other cars to show, they flipped!
 
Lets make it count!  Let me know if you are interested in going, and I
will provide more details!
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:05:54 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: sunstar delorean question

on my die-cast sunstar model it say's "1981 delorean Lk" what does the Lk stand for?

mark






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:37:13 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Something else to start a fire

I had a small fire in the relay compartment in the cab, caused by the front
fan fuse line going up in smoke.
In place of the original fan-fail module I had two orange wires with inline
fuses in heavy rubber housing. The wires for the module had been clipped,
the module base removed. The in-line fuses (blade style) were put in with
crimps and heat-shrink. It was a very nice job. I figure it was probably
done by the dealer (Crest Chevrolet in socal).
But why didn't the fuses blow? Why did they catch on fire?
Read on, gentle reader.
I called John Hervey; he's a good man. It didn't make sense that they would
smolder and actually burn without blowing first, or to do so after blowing.
So while I describing the layout of the situation to John, looking for
shorts on the "hot" side of the fuses, I think I figured out the problem.
The wires and fuses were laying on top-- across the back row of relays-- and
I believe that the little bit of fuse that shows across the top of the fuse
(for checking it's status) grounded against the metal pan of the
compartment.
This theory is supported, I think, by the fact that the bottom fuse appeared
to have been closer to the pan, was mostly consumed on the "hot" side of the
wire.

I've now cut out the old crimps and wire and placed new in, heat shrinked it
up nice and tight. It is now laying near vertical at the end of the
compartment instead of across the top. If you have a setup similar to mine--
you might want to double check it.

Now, unfortunately, I have some melted carpet and charred vinyl to clean up.
That wood cover-- that's a bad idea. It was very hot & smoking. I'm lucky
that didn't shoot up in flames. Hopefully it is covered in a fire retardant
paint?

Any ideas for cleaning up the smells, soot, and charred remains?

Thanks,
Kevin




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:28:11 -0500
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com
Subject: Head assemblies

I am about to embark upon a complete rebuild of an engine on a D that I just
picked up. The heads on it are warped due to a coolant fluid leak and
require replacement, so before breaking down and buying them new I figured I
would put out some feelers here on the list to see if anyone had a set of
good heads from a parts car. Feel free to respond here of via E-mail -
MPolzin(at)sen.com

Thanks in advance!

Mike Polzin
VIN# 4761




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 04:05:38 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: fuel distributor- no fuel from #1 and #4 ports???

Stephane, There are several fuel distributors that will sub for the 
109 Delorean. You just have to know which ones and how they are set 
up. The 114 should work just fine. But like your original one, if 
it's dirty inside from sitting, then you normally won't flush it out. 
You can see what I mean by the picturs on my web site of the inside. 
The fuel has to pass through some .2mm slits in the control plunger 
cylinder. That why if it get stopped up it normally won't unstop. If 
you want me to rebuild another distributor other than the 109, then 
tell me or send it to me and I will build it to De Lorean specs.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


   --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Are there any idea's or thoughts on what my cause this?  the car is 
> an 1981 with an automatic tranny. 
> 
> Here is my problem, the car was stored for the past ten years full 
of 
> fuel.  What a mess to clean, the tank even had stuff growing in 
it.  
> Anyways I removed the fuel tank and had it professionaly cleaned,  
> the lines inside were changed as well as the pump, the pump 
> boot,bracket and cover(all purchased threw specialtauto).  Then I 
> changed the accumalator and fuel filter.  I tried to start the car 
> but had no power at the fuel pump, a little more testing found a 
bad 
> fuel pump relay, so it was replaced. Now I had fuel but the car 
would 
> not start. I found out the hard way the fuel distributor plunger 
was 
> siezed, so I had a spare one that was supplied with the car when I 
> bought it.  The car started but had to much fuel pressure, more 
> testing found that the pressure regulator was no good so it was 
> replaced.  Now the car starts but it has a noticable miss to it, I 
> checked compression and it checks out fine across the board.  Some 
> more testing found that #1 and #4cyl was not getting fuel from the 
> distributor.  I double checked the fuel distributor part #'s and 
> found that the original one was 0 438 100 109 and the one that I 
> replaced it with is 0 438 100 114.  They hook up the same, but for 
> some reson #1 and #4 are dry.  I did find out that part # 0 438 100 
> 114 fits an early 4cyl turbo model and that #1 and #4 are blocked 
> with plugs in this aplication,  if this is the case can anyone tell 
> me if there is a fix for this without opening the distributor?  Any 
> help in this matter would be great.  Thanks for you info 
> 
> stephane vin2450




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:42:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Speedometer cable question

I've had a problem when the lower speedo cable (from the front left wheel
to the lambda) was too long. It had to bend awkwardly and would sort of
"stick & spring". I imagine that any cable could do this if it's bent
around strangely. It can also happen when the dust cap on the front left
wheel gets stripped out.

-Christian

On Tue, 10 Sep 2002, Nick Kemp wrote:

> A long time back, I recall a discussion about unstable speedometer readings
> caused by one of the cables going into the counter not making a good
> connection.  Thus the drive slips.  I also recall the drive cable being too
> short.
>
> - Does anyone recall this?
> - What was the problem and solution?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick Kemp



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 13:39:20 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Head assemblies

Mike, can you not just get the heads planed flat? This is a very 
standard job over here and the Diesel Centre just sent #2727's heads off 
to be machined as they would with any engine where the head gasket(s) 
had gone. So the moral is, even if the heads are apparently good, they 
should have a couple of microns skimmed off anyway when changing the 
gaskets.

The coolant leak is the effect, not the cause BTW - the engine has 
probably overheated at some point. There are pics of #2727's engine 
rebuild here

http://www.delorean.co.uk/1458and2727d.html

Martin
#1458

MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com wrote:

>I am about to embark upon a complete rebuild of an engine on a D that I just
>picked up. The heads on it are warped due to a coolant fluid leak and
>require replacement, so before breaking down and buying them new I figured I
>would put out some feelers here on the list to see if anyone had a set of
>good heads from a parts car. Feel free to respond here of via E-mail -
>MPolzin(at)sen.com
>
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Mike Polzin
>VIN# 4761
>





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:02:49 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Speedometer cable question

The first place to start is to pull off the front left wheel and check 
the plastic drive disc that is captured between the rim and the hub. 
Make sure it won't slip and the square hole inside isn't rounded out 
causing the square drive cable in the center of the hub to slip. Next 
disconnect the cable from the angle drive and make sure it isn't 
binding or skipping and then lubricate it. Check that the lower speedo 
support is not missing or bent. Make sure there are no sharp bends or 
kinks in the lower speedo cable, turn the wheel lock to lock and check 
in all positions. If these tips don't help you may have a bent cable 
or one of the ends is damaged. Pull the inner cable out and lay it on 
the floor. It should lay flat and straight, if it doesn't then it will 
whip when it turns causing a bouncing speedo needle. Lubricate and 
reinstall. Generally the problems happen in parts before the lambda 
counter, in the angle drive and lower speedo cable.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> A long time back, I recall a discussion about unstable speedometer 
readings
> caused by one of the cables going into the counter not making a good
> connection.  Thus the drive slips.  I also recall the drive cable 
being too
> short.
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:15:50 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Something else to start a fire

What you have described is a "home brew" jumper set-up for the fan 
fail relay. This jumper was supposed to be a temporary fix. You need 
to get it out either with a Fanzilla or another method. I have seen 
other cars melt the jumper wires and it can be dangerous. You may also 
need a new otterstadt switch, if the cooling fans run continuously 
it will cause the wires to overheat. The cooling fans have to cycle on 
and off. Make sure all the electrical connectors have not softened 
from the heat, they still make tight contact and are not dirty or 
bent. Check that you have the higher capacity circuit breaker for the 
cooling fans (40 amps). If the wires had shorted out then they 
wouldn't have melted they would have FRIED and the circuit breaker 
would have popped.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I had a small fire in the relay compartment in the cab, caused by 
the front
> fan fuse line going up in smoke.
> In place of the original fan-fail module I had two orange wires with 
inline
> fuses in heavy rubber housing. The wires for the module had been 
clipped,
> the module base removed. The in-line fuses (blade style) were put in 
with
> crimps and heat-shrink. It was a very nice job. I figure it was 
probably
> done by the dealer (Crest Chevrolet in socal).
> But why didn't the fuses blow? Why did they catch on fire?
> Read on, gentle reader.
> I called John Hervey; he's a good man. It didn't make sense that 
they would
> smolder and actually burn without blowing first, or to do so after 
blowing.
> So while I describing the layout of the situation to John, looking 
for
> shorts on the "hot" side of the fuses, I think I figured out the 
problem.
> The wires and fuses were laying on top-- across the back row of 
relays-- and
> I believe that the little bit of fuse that shows across the top of 
the fuse
> (for checking it's status) grounded against the metal pan of the
> compartment.
> This theory is supported, I think, by the fact that the bottom fuse 
appeared
> to have been closer to the pan, was mostly consumed on the "hot" 
side of the
> wire.
> 
> I've now cut out the old crimps and wire and placed new in, heat 
shrinked it
> up nice and tight. It is now laying near vertical at the end of the
> compartment instead of across the top. If you have a setup similar 
to mine--
> you might want to double check it.
> 
> Now, unfortunately, I have some melted carpet and charred vinyl to 
clean up.
> That wood cover-- that's a bad idea. It was very hot & smoking. I'm 
lucky
> that didn't shoot up in flames. Hopefully it is covered in a fire 
retardant
> paint?
> 
> Any ideas for cleaning up the smells, soot, and charred remains?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:28:17 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Electronic Guru's please help!

A good place to start would be inside the driver's side door. Check 
the switches to make sure they are good and all of the adjustments are 
correct. If that isn't the place then follow the wiring out of the 
door to the plug under the "T" roof and into the module. If you 
haven't gotten a Lockzilla I would forget about fixing it till you get 
one and in the meantime remove the big red wire from the door lock 
module to the nearby circuit breaker. There is a real possability the 
door lock module will fail, locking you in the car and burning up the 
door lock solenoids. Installing a Lockzilla will not fix this problem 
by itself unless the door lock module is bad causing this trouble.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_e...> wrote:
>  All hail! (just kidding) Ok.. My passenger door, when locked or 
unlocked, will lock/unlock the driver side door as well. Just like it 
should.however the Driver side door won't tell the passenger door to 
lock/unlock.where should I start diagnostic? Or might someone know 
exactly what is fried? ***Oil change place yesterday evening -- "Hey 
bob, the reason we couldn't find the filter is cause the engines in 
back!!"***they were under the car for god's sakeTHANKS!!!!-James La 
Londe1981 Delorean DMC-12 vin#001697 LicPlate DMC XII1998 Kawasaki 
Vulcan 8001992 Ford Probe GT--- On Sun 09/08, Joe Bachmann &lt; 
joe.bachmann_at_dml_n... &gt; wrote:From: Joe Bachmann [mailto: 





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:37:56 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Something else to start a fire (fire cleanup)

Kevin,

The best way I have found to get rid of the odors associated with a
compartment fire is to run a small ozone generator in the compartment
for a few hours.  Many detail shops have these devices and charge
either a flat rate or a hourly rate to remove stubborn odors.  I'm
not an expert on this topic, but I have used ozone generators in a
few different applications and they have all worked very well.
As a side note, most air-to-air ozone generators work best in dry
conditions.  This means try to schedule it for a low humidity day. 

If a local detail shop does not have one, check for a service in your
area that cleans up buildings after fires - they should have a few of
these devices.  A word of caution - since the larger devices for
building uses can generate substantial amounts of ozone, make sure
that the setting is kept at a much lower level, since you only want
to oxidize contaminents at the surface level and not any deeper.
If you do have too high of a setting or if you leave it on too long,
you run the risk of deteriorating vinyl and leather surfaces.

If you live in or near the Chicago area or can arrange to get here,
you can use my portable ozone generator to clean out the odors.
And before anyone asks, no I will not consider lending or renting
my generator if it involves shipping it to you and back to me.

Good luck with your cleanup.

Later,
Rich W. 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I had a small fire in the relay compartment in the cab, caused by 
the front
> fan fuse line going up in smoke.
>
> snip <
> 
> Any ideas for cleaning up the smells, soot, and charred remains?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:53:13 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Something else to start a fire

Call your insurance agent.  My agent suggested baking soda, lots of it
spread on the carpet and left for awhile.  Then you can vacuum the stink up.
There is a product called "Febreeze", it is an odor eliminator, not a
perfume.  You can buy it in the household or car section of Wal-Mart.

Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031

-----Original Message-----
From: K Creason [mailto:dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 10:37 PM
To: Dmc /dml
Subject: [DML] Something else to start a fire


> I had a small fire in the relay compartment in the cab, caused by 
> the front fan fuse line going up in smoke.

[duplicate quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 12:10:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge

I Just got my A/C charged with R12, and the mechanic said the was overheating when they tested the AC.. I chalked it up to the fact that they tested it without driving the car... and it would've overheating just sitting there for 30 minutes anyways (with or without AC)

But that was only partially true. On the freeway or consistantly driving 35 + mph the temp is fine and AC is cold. When in stop and go traffic though, or (of course) when at a stand still, the water temp rises steadily to the red zone. And then hovers there for a bit, and then seemed to drop drastically back to slightly under normal. Sometimes the water temp will stay at normal even in stop-and-go traffic, and other times it will do as i described above. And if the temp is high and I start going faster for some distance doesn't immediatly effect the water temp (as it has in the past when the temp rose is trafic.. it used to drop back to normal once the fans kicked on, or when i started moving again).

May sound stupid, but is possible to have reversed the polarity on the fans? Should the fans be blowing through the radiator or sucking in from the radiator (pulling more air through? thanks for any input!!!!!!!!

-James La Londe
1981 Delorean DMC-12 vin#001697
LicPlate DMC XII
1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 800
1992 Ford Probe GT



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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:30:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "James La Londe" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Guru's please help!

 I tihnk I mispoke. The driver door will LOCK the passenger but not unlock, and the passenger works fine(excite messed up, I may have just sent this... but better twice than none!)

-James La Londe1981 Delorean DMC-12 vin#001697 LicPlate DMC XII
1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 800
1992 Ford Probe GT

--- On Tue 09/10, Martin Gutkowski < webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk > wrote:

> From: Martin Gutkowski [mailto: webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk]
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 22:17:00 +0100
> Subject: Re: [DML] Electronic Guru's please help!


> ...or the contacts in the drivers door need cleaning. Put your ear to the lock module andget someone to lock/unlock the drivers door. If you hear a clicking, then Marc's right.If not, then I'm right :-)Martin#1458"Marc A. Levy" wrote:> Maybe the solenoid in the passenger door is bad?To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.comTo search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:50:55 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare

On 11-09-2002, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:

> It cross references to a Lotus Esprit apparently.
> Over here you can buy it from a 3rd
> party manufacturer brand new (not NOS) for under 300.

NO it does NOT!
This has come up several times in the past,
but the Esprit windshield will NOT fit the DeLorean.

They look very similar, but are not compatible.
And even if they were; you'd need a year of build for the Esprit.
Unlike our cars they were (are) built for a longer period of time
AND have REAL differences between years...

Cheers,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:43:37 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1193

On 11-09-2002, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com> wrote:

> A long time back, I recall a discussion about unstable speedometer
> readings caused by one of the cables going into the counter not
> making a good connection.  Thus the drive slips.  I also recall
> the drive cable being too short.

In my experience (and I have plenty with 5 breakdowns within a year)
the "bobbing" is most likely caused by either the drive cap slipping
or a cable not snugly fit into the square reciever.
If  it's the drivecap that's slipping, wrap the edge that slips
into the hub with electrical tape onece or twice.
If the square hole in the drive cap is worn replace the cap.
The cable coming out of the AngleDrive going through the axle
tends to be too LONG, not too short. This is easily solved by
carefully cutting the tip of the drive cap. seal it when in place
with a small dab of RTV or another bit of electrical tape.
If the cable has broken/frayed (like mine had) it CAN be replaced;
mine has been replaced with a new cable, tinned all over to prevent
it from fraying again. Cost me about $50,- Turned out the square at
the end was a bit too small, so I made the hole in the drive cap
smaller using a small piece of sheet-copper on two sides of the
hole. That made the 0.5mm difference I needed.

If the lower cable slips in the AD the cable's square is
probably worn, best to replace the cable.

After doing all of the above and after spending around $600 on
repairs and replacement parts (some I needed because of my own faults)
I can finally say that I've had a reliable speedo for over 2000 miles
since the last time the thing gave me trouble.

Hope it stays this way, MTBF used to be less than 1000 miles.
Good luck, mail me if you need to know specifics,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 14:59:38 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Head assemblies

also have the heads magnifluxed (i think thats the correct spelling and name). this
process will find out if they have small cracks in them before you have them resurfaced
so they wont leak. i had a 300 in line ford 6 cyl head magnifluxed and resurfaced for
$75 10 years ago so i think it should be around $150 a head now for these two processes.

mark



Martin Gutkowski wrote:

> Mike, can you not just get the heads planed flat? This is a very
> standard job over here and the Diesel Centre just sent #2727's heads off
> to be machined as they would with any engine where the head gasket(s)
> had gone. So the moral is, even if the heads are apparently good, they
> should have a couple of microns skimmed off anyway when changing the
> gaskets.
>
> The coolant leak is the effect, not the cause BTW - the engine has
> probably overheated at some point. There are pics of #2727's engine
> rebuild here
>
> http://www.delorean.co.uk/1458and2727d.html
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com wrote:
>
> >I am about to embark upon a complete rebuild of an engine on a D that I just
> >picked up.

[moderator snip]



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 20:49:34 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Protecting the DeLorean Image.

[Moderator Note:  Please note that this post was approved because of its editorial content about the DeLorean image.  This is NOT an invitation to speculate about Tilley's motivation on the DML.  Please take discussions of Tilley's motivation to the appropriate forum.  - moderator Mike Substelny]

I will need to disagree with you here because I believe this case is 
different.  Tilley is making himself look good by making the Delorean 
look bad.  Let me explain:

What better car to use for a questionable experiment than the 
Delorean?  There is so much confusion surrounding the man and the car 
that anyone will believe anything you tell them about a Delorean.  
Tilley is capitalizing on this idea by taking advantage of the 
ignorance of the general public, and at the same time, making the 
Delorean look worse than it is.

At the end of his experiment, what does he want people to say?  He 
wants them to say, "Wow, that's really great!  It looks like Tilley 
really has something here!  Too bad he used a Delorean, because that 
kind of car just can't handle going 70mph that long without losing a 
wheel bearing."

In a sense, he's using the Delorean as an excuse to explain why his 
experiment failed, knowing that it will keep the truth at bay for 
awhile longer, thus giving him more time to sign up investors and 
take a few down-payments.  He's exploiting the ignorance of these 
people, and at the same time, feeding the media more false rumors and 
speculation about our favorite automobile.

In my 2.5 years of owning this car, I've had many a person come up to 
me and rationalize why they would never buy a car like this.  They 
reasons they give are always false.  "It's so heavy!"  "Isn't it hard 
to find parts?"  "You can't get out of that thing in tight spaces."  
People pay attention to the Delorean and the rumors they hear.  But 
they do NOT take time to find out the facts.  When there are bad 
rumors, the Delorean looks bad.  That's just the way it is.

Make no mistake.  This is the same prank that has been played by 
every slick willy since the dawn of time; the promise of an 
everlasting energy source.  Except this time, he's making Deloreans 
look bad too, which means I take it personally.

Aaron
#1506





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 16:02:38 -0500
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com
Subject: Re: Head assemblies

I will definitely be looking into this process as well as having them planed
flat. I guess I was just being overly cautious thinking of just replacing
them, but this isn't anything new, and certainly for the price I should give
it a try.

Is anyone aware of the maximum amount (in microns) that you can shave off
these things before you are going to run into problems? I'm not sure how
badly they are warped, so that might be the only issue.

Has anyone ever warped the block due to overheating? I'm wondering if I need
to check that too.

Mike Polzin
VIN #4761

----- Original Message -----
From: "id" <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Head assemblies


> also have the heads magnifluxed (i think thats the correct spelling and
name). this
> process will find out if they have small cracks in them before you have
them resurfaced
> so they wont leak. i had a 300 in line ford 6 cyl head magnifluxed and
resurfaced for
> $75 10 years ago so i think it should be around $150 a head now for these
two processes.
>
> mark
>
>
>
> Martin Gutkowski wrote:
>
> > Mike, can you not just get the heads planed flat? This is a very
> > standard job over here and the Diesel Centre just sent #2727's heads off
> > to be machined as they would with any engine where the head gasket(s)
> > had gone. So the moral is, even if the heads are apparently good, they
> > should have a couple of microns skimmed off anyway when changing the
> > gaskets.
> >
> > The coolant leak is the effect, not the cause BTW - the engine has
> > probably overheated at some point. There are pics of #2727's engine
> > rebuild here
> >
> > http://www.delorean.co.uk/1458and2727d.html
> >
> > Martin
> > #1458
> >
> > MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com wrote:
> >
> > >I am about to embark upon a complete rebuild of an engine on a D that I
just
> > >picked up.
>
> [moderator snip]
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 21:53:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Something else to start a fire

Assuming you speak of standard full size blade fuses, the test
contacts are slightly recessed. Seems unlikely they'd contact a flat
sheet of (painted) metal.

What size wire were you using? Blade assemblies come as small as 16
gauge -- way too small for 20 amp circuits. In fact, did you have two
separate 20 amp lines? And was your circuit breaker still in the
circuit? If so, why didn't it trip?

Am slightly puzzled about "nice job" bypass. Usually you don't have to
cut anything -- just replace relay with two fused lines, one for each
fan (relay socket is standard size blade). Did your dealer try to rig
guts of the original relay? Were correct lines (plural) used in and out?

Not long ago I substituted 10 amp fuses in my 12 gauge bypasses
(curiosity). Blew both the instant otterstat engaged. Don't have
beaucoups 15 amp, so haven't experimented with those yet. I could
argue that correctly wired 20 amp bypasses are every bit as safe as a
"fixes", but that usually generates excited negative feedback...

Bill Robertson
#5939

> In place of the original fan-fail module I had two orange wires with
inline
> fuses in heavy rubber housing. The wires for the module had been
clipped,
> the module base removed. The in-line fuses (blade style) were put in
with
> crimps and heat-shrink. It was a very nice job. I figure it was probably
> done by the dealer (Crest Chevrolet in socal).

> I believe that the little bit of fuse that shows across the top of
the fuse
> (for checking it's status) grounded against the metal pan of the
> compartment.
> This theory is supported, I think, by the fact that the bottom fuse
appeared
> to have been closer to the pan, was mostly consumed on the "hot"
side of the
> wire.
> 





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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 17:04:33 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Head assemblies

The thing to be concerned with regarding milling the heads is the fit
between the timing chain cover,the heads and the cam covers. Also the alignment of the camshaft holes in the heads would be affected by warping. I have heard of machine shops straightening heads that aren't too badly warped. Whatever, you'll need some experianced advice.

Bruce Benson




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 00:09:55 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Windshield anyone have a spare

Hi Jan

That's really interesting - ( I did say apparently :-) There must be a car that has been
in relatively recent production with the same windscreen. Here's the story:

When we brought #1458 and #2727 over last year (in fact we legally became the cars'
owners on September 10th when payment was cleared through HSBC Bank in New York...) we
knew #2727 would need a new windscreen

As always, I approached Dave Howarth, and he had (and has) a stock of windscreens. He
gave me two prices: one for a DMC Branded windscreen and one for an OEM windscreen. As
the OEM one was three quarters of the price, Rich decided to go with that one.
Fortunately I was in Manchester for work and was able to stop by Dave's and pick it up.

We got a local bloke to come and fit it while the car was in "hospital" at the Diesel
Centre. The guy who did the fitting noticed the manufacturers label on the glass and said
"that's one of our codes!" (presumably meaning his parent company - it wasn't a big chain
or anything).

He made a quick phone call and came back saying "bronze or green tint?" Apparently both
are still available off the shelf, and the price he quoted was cheaper still than Dave's.

It'd be really REALLY wierd for a supplier to actually have DeLorean windscreens over
here if they are specific to the car - they must match something else.

Martin
#1458

Jan van de Wouw wrote:

> > It cross references to a Lotus Esprit apparently.
>
> NO it does NOT!




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 18:54:42 -0500
From: Joe Bachmann <joe.bachmann_at_dml_newmail.net>
Subject: Re: Something else to start a fire

If you are in CHicago, I have a very good Ozone generator you can use to get rid of the
smell...
Joe

K Creason wrote:

> I had a small fire in the relay compartment in the cab, caused by the front
> fan fuse line going up in smoke.
> ...> Any ideas for cleaning up the smells, soot, and charred remains?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>



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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 00:11:42 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Head assemblies

Minor problem here. It's kind of difficult to magnaflux an aluminum 
head. It's not magnetic.

Also - you are NOT supposed to grind heads on the PRV, if you do more 
than microscopically the front end plate will no longer fit. (This 
plate covers the whole front(belt end) of the engine, including the 
heads.) If the heads are much shorter than as-designed you'll have a 
problem. 

This is explained in the technical manual as well (I believe, it's 
been a long time since I re-read it!).

Dave Swingle

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> also have the heads magnifluxed (i think thats the correct spelling 
and name). this
> process will find out if they have small cracks in them before you 
have them resurfaced
> so they wont leak. i had a 300 in line ford 6 cyl head magnifluxed 
and resurfaced for
> $75 10 years ago so i think it should be around $150 a head now for 
these two processes.
> 
> mark
> 
> 
> 
> Martin Gutkowski wrote:
> 
> > Mike, can you not just get the heads planed flat? This is a very
> > standard job over here and the Diesel Centre just sent #2727's 
heads off





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 22:04:56 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Car show in NJ on 9/22

Here are some more details on this car show for you all.

This is a FREE event sponsered by the historic Chester business
association.

The car show is in Historic Chester NJ
(http://www.chesternj.org/shops.html)  Like I said...lots of shops to
keep your significant other busy ALL day!  (check the link above if you
don't believe me!)

All of main street will be blocked off for the show
Registration is at 87 Main st (downstairs) in PENNY LANE MUSIC STORE

9:00am  - Event starts-Parking in designated areas
11am-2pm  - Judging
3:00pm  - Prize Awards (I was told if we get several DMCs there, we can
get our own class!)
4:00pm  - Event ends (perhaps a Delorean Owner dinner at a local
resteraunt!?)

PreRegistration is encouraged:
Contact:  Penny Lane
908-879-5540
Wed-Sun 1-5pm

COME ON!  People are bored of seeing 55 chevys, and old corvettes!  Lets
make this the talk of the town, and bring out something people don't get
to see much of....DELOREANS!

(let me know if you plan to attend!)

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean_at_dml_abato.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 10:45 PM
To: Dmcnews
Subject: [DML] Car show in NJ on 9/22


> Anyone interested in attending a car show in Chester NJ on
> Sunday Sept. 22?
>
> If you don't know where Chester is, it is just off of Rt 206
>  1/2 way between Rt 287 and Rt 80.
>
> It is an old town FILLED with antique shops, boutiques, etc..
> (lots of stuff for the significant other to do!...FOR HOURS!)
>
> They are going to block off the main street of town for the show,
> and it promises to be really nice!   I was at a car show tonight,
> and they begged me to bring my Delorean.  When I mentioned I might
> be able to get some other cars to show, they flipped!
>
> Lets make it count!  Let me know if you are interested in going,
> and I will provide more details!



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