From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1220
Date: Monday, September 30, 2002 11:16 AM

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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Problem with Lockzilla
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Re: Problem with Lockzilla
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Downfall of the DMC?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

4. Re: some help here guys
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: New Owner - a few questions
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. RE: Gold DMC interior
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

7. RE: Momo hub info from Swedish club president!?
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

8. Starter question, problem and proposed solution?
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>

9. Hi from Evansville
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

10. RE: New Owner - a few questions
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

11. Re: Starter question, problem and proposed solution?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. Alarm/remote central locking recommendations?
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

13. Re: Momo hub info from Swedish club president!?
From: "vrvader" <vrvader_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. help!
From: "Robin Glebes" <robglebes_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: help!
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: New Owner - a few questions
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

17. Frequency Valve question
From: "georad1" <georad_at_dml_gehennatech.com>

18. Re: DeLorean Mid-Atlantic Fall Tour Info
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. clutch
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>

20. Re: Re: help!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: help! No start problem for Rob.
From: Richard Lew <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Frequency Valve question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Hi from Evansville (club award)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 22:15:24 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Problem with Lockzilla

Elvis, I have relay's in stock for the door lock mod. I've said for almost 
two years they need to be replaced. When I see them they are chared real bad 
and people wonder why the solenoids don't work.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Your Delorean parts store.

<< Like I said some days ago, the Door Lock Module drains 13mA during standby.
 And that's not zero ! You don't even need to measure it, just take a look at
 the schematic and
 use the formula invented by Mr. Ohm.
 I modified about 10 modules, and never had to replace the caps so far !
 The relays need to be replaced because the contacts are always worn.
 That's due to the fact, that the power for the relays only comes from the
 caps.
 While they are discharged (relays close contact) the voltage of the caps
 drops
 and also the current in the coil. The force of the relay depends of I*n
 (I=current, N=number of windings). Now when the force drops slowly (and
 that's how the module is designed to do), the contacts burn a little bit
 everytime they have to open the circuit. In some cases the contacts may
 stick together like being welded. That's exactly when you need new selenoids
 afterwards. I talked to a friend who works for Marquardt (they make any kind
 of switches, also the electronic keys for Mercedes) and he said reducing the
 force slowly is the worst thing you can do for a contact.
 
 Normaly these modules should all be replaced but this wouldn't be original
 anymore. Instead replace the relays and the system will be ok for some more
 years.
 
 Elvis & 6548
  >>



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 10:54:20 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Problem with Lockzilla

Elvis,

I have done some extensive research on these modules which is all documented in the DMC
news tech article. I don't think you've had to troubleshoot a malfunctioning unit before,
hence why you don't see any reason to add protection diodes, replace the capacitors or
transistors.

You're right though (as is Knut), I didn't spend as long as I should reading the diagram
(which should be oh-so-familiar by now!) before posting last.

I am very well aware that switching a relay off slowly is very bad - and have said this
on several occasions before. It causes arcing and pitting of the contact surfaces.
However, if you use sealed relays which contain an inert gas, you bypass this problem.
The OEM module is a crap design, but by replacing and adding various components, I'm
happy mine's robust enough to trust with a remote central locking system which I've
fitted and has been working for 8 months now.

Martin
#1458 & #4426

Elvis Nocita wrote:

> Like I said some days ago, the Door Lock Module drains 13mA during standby.
> And that's not zero ! You don't even need to measure it, just take a look at
> the schematic and
> use the formula invented by Mr. Ohm.
> I modified about 10 modules, and never had to replace the caps so far !
> The relays need to be replaced because the contacts are always worn.
> That's due to the fact, that the power for the relays only comes from the
> caps.
> While they are discharged (relays close contact) the voltage of the caps
> drops
> and also the current in the coil. The force of the relay depends of I*n
> (I=current, N=number of windings). Now when the force drops slowly (and
> that's how the module is designed to do), the contacts burn a little bit
> everytime they have to open the circuit. In some cases the contacts may
> stick together like being welded. That's exactly when you need new selenoids
> afterwards. I talked to a friend who works for Marquardt (they make any kind
> of switches, also the electronic keys for Mercedes) and he said reducing the
> force slowly is the worst thing you can do for a contact.
>
> Normaly these modules should all be replaced but this wouldn't be original
> anymore. Instead replace the relays and the system will be ok for some more
> years.
>
> Elvis & 6548




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 03:49:39 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Downfall of the DMC?

Yes, it is true that the British govt. could have done more *technicly* to save 
DMC. However, there is one thing that is greatly overlooked. The Dunmurry 
plant is NOT DMC, that was DMCL. These are 2 entirely seperate companies. 
DMCL built the cars, but had a structure set in their contracts specifying that 
DMC in North America was to be the sole distributor. Sure, DMCL could have 
been kept afloat and in business, but where would the cars have gone to? 
With the DMC contract in place, the British couldn't have simply taken control 
of the plant. Even if they did, and continued to build cars, where would they 
have gone? Leagaly, they could not bypass DMC's dealer network to move 
the very product that they were building. That is not to say that they are 
entirely blamless. The company could definatly have benefited from the 
proper financing promised for the floorplaning of the vehicles. And a curious 
tidbit of info is of course that Dennis Thatcher (PM Thatcher's husband) was a 
MAJOR stockholder in GM. However, a final offer was given to JZD for 
financing. For this here, let's now take a look _at_dml_ DMC, and it's role.

Yes, the new party in control was not as willing as the previous to give DMC 
the proper/promised financing it needed/deserved. But there is also an 
understandable reason for this. Checking over things, they were naturally 
worried that DMC & DMCL were both companies that were on the verge of 
closing their doors. Yet at the same time, JZD had just purchased the 
Bedminster estate, Logan Mfg., and invested considerable amouts of money 
into non DMC-12 related projects such as the DMC-80 and others. However, 
in the end, a last-ditch offer was extended to JZD. Put up $20 million, and we'll 
guarantee all future financing. For this, JZD had $10M from the short tearm 
loan out of DC, $5M from the 5th Avenue apt in NY (that his wife refused to 
give up), and the remainder could easily have come from various sources, if 
not real estate holdings he had.

Even if the Govt. didn't give DMC, and DMCL the financing they would have 
needed to stay in business, they may not have needed it at all. DMC is not 
without it's own mistakes. Easiest thing would have been for the company not 
to have made all the aformentioned purchases, and spending of money. 
However, as I have heard before, the biggest problem with sales stateside 
wasn't because of a lack of interest from the buying public. The car was very 
popular, but most people couldn't buy it. Not because they couldn't afford it, 
but because not many conventional finance companies would front the 
money for it. You either needed cash, or you needed to bring your own 
financing. The doubling of car production in '81 didn't help any, but it was a 
gamble taken. It didn'y pay off, but it could have. It's goal was to produce more 
cars to sell to turn a profit, and to create wealth for the company by creating a 
larger inventory of cars that they owned. This would make DMC more 
attractive to investors. Instead, this gave the company a bad image that they 
were producing cars that no one was buying. A better solution would have 
been to provide internal financing for all vehicles. The same way that GMAC 
does for it's cars. That way, a profit would have been made on both the selling 
of the cars, and on the loans made to pay them off. Include this with the fact 
that the company would still have retained ownership of the vehicles durring 
the terms of the loans, and this would have killed 2 birds with one stone, 
without the overhead. It's even possible that they may have still increased 
production, and then have been able to sell those cars much quicker.

There are many more factors involved in both the success of the company, 
and it's demise. There is no way that a single post could cover them all. A few 
books have been written, and not even they have touched them all. But even 
from this here, you can see that there really isn't one thing at all that solely 
caused the demise of DMC. Unless of course you want to count in Murphy's 
Law. It certainly seemed that almost everything that could go wrong, did.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
> 
> I must agree with David...there is too many factors against
> the British government that they could have changed.
<SNIP>




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 22:11:08 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: some help here guys

Space, Be prepared to spend some money after you start driving it. Depending 
on the Vin # would help us determine even more updates. 
Alternator, water pump, water hoses, vacuum hoses, corossion  from water 
sitting in it for 20 years without being changed, maybe fuel problems, Water 
in gas will cause corrosion in several parts and more. Possible rubber dry 
rotted from the years, dash was it taken car of. So many things will pop up 
after you start driving it. 
Others will even tell you more.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Your Delorean Parts store.
  

<< im presently looking into purchasing an 81, its 100% stock with 855 
 miles, supposedly its been started twice a month to circulate fluids 
 etc... my question is this...the owner states that the only things 
 wrong to his knowledge(this is his aging fathers car) are that the 
 passenger window fell off track or the window regulator is bad and 
 the blower motor doesnt work....are these things indicative of the 
 car being used or is it possible they just went bad from 
 inactivity??....by the way i talkeed the seller down to 20 from the 
 22 he originally wanted....i tried to push 18gs but he wouldnt hear 
 of it.....thanx in advance
  >>



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 11:04:45 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: New Owner - a few questions

Hi Stuart

Glad to see another Brit on the DML!

saalexander2000 wrote:

> The car has black seats and dashboard with grey carpet.  I've never
> seen any pics of cars with this combination.  Do you think the carpet
> is non-original or maybe it's because it's quite a late car (Aug '82)
> and they were using up what was left?

Not in late '82 as far as I know - Dave Howarth's latest right-hander has a really
mix-n-matched interior.

> I want to upgrade the sound system but am having trouble finding rear
> speakers (10 x 4 I think?).  Does anyone have any suggestions?

The suggestion I got is to wait until you take the rear quarter trims off - apparently
there's actually quite a lot of space there and you don't necessarily need to go with 10
x 4's. This is my next job on #1458 since my dynamat pack arrived from the US last week.

> Also
> is it worth buying the replacement console to take modern stereos or
> does cutting the original work ok?

It's quite a job and the original bracket is rare-ish. I bought Houston's bracket to fit
my Kenwood unit and I'm very happy with it. Black Hammerite "hammered finish" paint makes
the perfect finish for it too. I'm glad I didn't cut up the old one now because #4426
(picking up next weekend) needs a new bracket.

> The windscreen washers don't work and I can't find the tubing from the
> pump to the wiper - is there an easy way to get where it's supposed to
> be?  I've removed the screw on panels in the luggage compartment but
> there seems to be a hidden area behind the wing.

Inside the left front wing there is a large black "bucket" that is not present on the
other side. It's held on with about 10 (?) bolts which screw into rivnuts in the
underbody. Removing this allows you to get to the pump. You can still buy these pumps
easily for anything from £8 to £15 (Halfords)

> The car tends to bounce around when driving on less than perfect
> roads.  I've fitted lowering springs to the front which have made it
> more stable but it still doesn't inspire confidence to corner fast.
> Are they generally like this or do I need new shocks?

I replaced mine with PJ Grady's setup and am very happy with it - there was nothing
really wrong with the OEM ones, but as someone has said on here before "a lot has
happenned to the design of shocks in the last 20 years".

Martin
DOC UK
#1458 & #4426




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 21:28:56 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Gold DMC interior

Tony - a good upholstery shop should be able to duplicate
any stiching pattern in any material you choose.  It will 
be expensive to redo the entire interior, particularly if
you want to go with a high quality leather.  Figure anywhere
between $2000 - $4000 to recover everything - carpets, headliner,
pillars, dash, binnacle, console, kneepads, door panels, 
kickpanels, and the rear package shelf.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dmc_delorean_2000 [mailto:dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 10:20 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Gold DMC interior


hi all
I know I've cause some trouble here in the past, but Im a changed man 
and Im just an amature DeLorean owner looking for advice. 

I really like The saddle brown (i belive its called) interior used on 
one of the Gold DeLoreans. I would like to make my interior look like 
that but Im not sure how to go about it. 




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 21:03:58 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: Momo hub info from Swedish club president!?

 >If anyone knows the DeLorean Club of Sweden president's e-mail.

It's amazing what can be found on the Internet.

DeLorean Club of Sweden 
Sverker Lundgren, President
Phone: 0141-52700 (Motala, Sweden)
Fax: 0141-52700 
E-mail: sverker.lundgren(at)swipnet.se 
http://www.autosite.se/DeLorean/

Gary
www.IN2TIME.com





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 04:37:55 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_pclink.com>
Subject: Starter question, problem and proposed solution?

My starter failed the other day (while diagnosing a coolant problem).  I
searched out a Volvo replacement but it did not have the pigtail that
provides 12Vdc switched that runs to the resistors and ignition system.  So
I took apart the solenoid and the switch is simple another leg off the 12Vdc
that goes to the starter motor.

It appears that when the solenoid engages, the contactor supplies 12Vdc to
the starter motor and another leg that provides 12Vdc to the ignition system
while cranking.  It appears it drops out when the motor starts or the
ignition switch is released.

Questions:
- Has anyone tried a Volvo starter?
- If so did you simply provide a connection to the 12Vdc running to the
motor?

I see no reason why this would not work, but I thought I'd put the question
to the group first.

I tried getting the original Delorean starter replaced and they claimed no
equivalent.  I sent it to be rebuilt and they said they could not get the
parts.  The Volvo rebuild is about $80

Thanks,

Nick




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 05:31:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Hi from Evansville

Greetings from Evansville IN Autofest 2002. I've uploaded a couple of 
photos to the "photos" section (look in "Evansville") - Dennis Gage 
in Rich W's D-Rex filming the close of "My Classic Car" and the 
lineup of the 14 DeLoreans that were featured. They treated us well 
giving is the prime position lined up at the riverfront. I should be 
able to get more pics on the dmcnews.com webpage in a day or so.

We toured here from as far away as Minnesota and Colorado. Special
cars included of course D-Rex and Ron Wester's screaming yellow D.

Dave Swingle (here with Marty, Bruce, and others too numerous to 
mention...)




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 17:52:00 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: RE: New Owner - a few questions

Stuart,

Check your front tires are the correct 195's.  I had the same bounce effect
as the previous owner had incorrectly fitted 205's to the front wheels. I
now have P600 Pirelli tyres at the rear, P6000 and euro springs at the
front.

The car now corners like a go-kart.

Chris Hawes
vin 5255


-----Original Message-----
From: saalexander2000 [mailto:stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: 28 September 2002 20:43
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] New Owner - a few questions


Hi,

I bought my DeLorean 3 months ago and am really pleased with it so
far.  I've already taken it on a 2000 mile trip to the South of France
and also 1000 miles around Scotland!  I've just got a few questions
for the list - hope you don't mind!

The car has black seats and dashboard with grey carpet.  I've never
seen any pics of cars with this combination.  Do you think the carpet
is non-original or maybe it's because it's quite a late car (Aug '82)
and they were using up what was left?

I want to upgrade the sound system but am having trouble finding rear
speakers (10 x 4 I think?).  Does anyone have any suggestions?  Also
is it worth buying the replacement console to take modern stereos or
does cutting the original work ok?

The windscreen washers don't work and I can't find the tubing from the
pump to the wiper - is there an easy way to get where it's supposed to
be?  I've removed the screw on panels in the luggage compartment but
there seems to be a hidden area behind the wing.

The car tends to bounce around when driving on less than perfect
roads.  I've fitted lowering springs to the front which have made it
more stable but it still doesn't inspire confidence to corner fast.
Are they generally like this or do I need new shocks?

Oh, it's a LHD manual with 42,000 miles.

Thanks for your time,

Stuart

#16686



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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 12:50:56 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Starter question, problem and proposed solution?

Nick, I tried to fit a Volvo to the Delorean but as you know it's a R30 
Renault bell housing and to my knowledge there is no substitute. It's a Paris 
Rhone for the Renault only. I also have new solenoids for it. 
I have the correct rebuilt starters in stock.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 

<< Questions:
 - Has anyone tried a Volvo starter?
 - If so did you simply provide a connection to the 12Vdc running to the
 motor?
 
 I see no reason why this would not work, but I thought I'd put the question
 to the group first.
 
 I tried getting the original Delorean starter replaced and they claimed no
 equivalent.  I sent it to be rebuilt and they said they could not get the
 parts.  The Volvo rebuild is about $80
  >>



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 11:23:29 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Alarm/remote central locking recommendations?

While we are on the subject of central locking, I would like to solicit 
recommendations for a replacement alarm/remote central locking system. 
I am shopping for a system with the following properties:

1) Standard basic car alarm features (shock sensor, valet mode, etc),
2) Compatibility with the standard DeLorean central lock system
3) At least three aux outputs, for my  Darryl Tinnerstet style remote 
door openers and trunk release. (this requirement probably implies a 
4-button remote).

A have been using Avital Phoenix 2, which is perfect for my needs 
except for 2 things:
1) the key fob remotes are kind of large and cheap looking. I would 
like something that looks more like current oem remotes.
2) It recently stopped working (apparently a radio problem).

I would be interested in hearing what others are using, especially 
those with door releases.


--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 23:13:18 -0000
From: "vrvader" <vrvader_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Momo hub info from Swedish club president!?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_o...> wrote:
>...He said a 1976 Rover SD1 hub will fit. However I never got a 
part number from him and Momo makes hubs for both Range and Land 
Rovers. ...
> 
> Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_o... 
> 
This seems to be the fit, I talked to momo and got two part numbers 
that might have worked but they are both out of production.  I have 
gotten a third that might be a possibility but have yet to 
investigate it.  I need to find a local shop that just happens to 
have it and see if it will fit our splines.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 18:57:44 -0400
From: "Robin Glebes" <robglebes_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: help!

   I've been having trouble getting my delorean started.  I had been driving 
and at a stop sign it stalled and would not restart.  It had been running 
rough that day, but it was running.  I had it towed back to my house and 
started checking it out.
   The things I checked were as follows:
fuel system:
-fuel pump output volume exceeded specs after the fuel filter
-cold start valve sprays approximately five seconds
-bypassing thermal time switch for fifteen seconds still did not start car

ignition system:
-checked resistence of ballist resistors and ignition coil
--ignition coil checked slightly high
----substituted a coil from another delorean and no change
-checked spark at plug ends of wire for plugs 2, 3, 5, and 6
--spark was orangish and arced about 3-sixtenths of an inch
---never pulled any plugs to look

with ignition on, but not cranking:
--voltage at first ballist resistor is 12.4 volts
--voltage at terminal 15 of coil was about 4.3 volts
--condensor to ground showed over 1.5 megohms

-timing at cranking speed using plug six about ten degrees btdc
--plug six was firing rarely(using intuction timing light)

Thanks for any help.  Hopefully it's something obvious that I overlooked.
-Rob




_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 22:26:21 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: help!

Rob, Let me make some comments:
When you say running rough, was that at idle, If so it sound like the car is 
starving for gas or needs a tune up. Make sure the idle speed motor is 
turning on at idle and opening the valve. It does it through the idle speed 
switch. If it doesn't turn on and open the idle speed motor, it may not 
start. Over time the control plunger may need adjusting. That's the small 
hole in front of the fuel distributor, at rest if it is sitting to low the 
car won't start. How fast will it idle and is it smooth or rough.1/4 turn to 
the right will make a difference. 

fuel pump output volume exceeded specs after the fuel filter ( not the 
problem )
-cold start valve sprays approximately five seconds ( supposed to if 
operating proper)
-bypassing thermal time switch for fifteen seconds still did not start car. 
( Car was most likley flooded. ) I wouldn't by pass.

ignition system:
-checked resistence of ballist resistors ( should be 1 ohm full and 1/2 ohm 
ea.)and ignition coil
--ignition coil checked slightly high. ( will do so over time  but normally 
won't stop it from starting unless a wire id broken inside.If it is the 
factory old one, I would change it.)
----substituted a coil from another delorean and no change ( ok )
-checked spark at plug ends of wire for plugs 2, 3, 5, and 6 ( ok )
--spark was orangish and arced about 3-sixtenths of an inch ( ok )
---never pulled any plugs to look ( no need to if it was running ok when 
stopped )

with ignition on, but not cranking:
--voltage at first ballist resistor is 12.4 volts ( low, should be at least 
12.66 which is battery voltage, but should not stop it from starting.) 
--voltage at terminal 15 of coil was about 4.3 volts( ok, but what was the 
voltage on the resistor on the bottom right side during cranking.)
--condensor to ground showed over 1.5 megohms. ( ok )

-timing at cranking speed using plug six about ten degrees btdc ( Timing at 
idle should be at least 13 degrees before TDC. There is a mark on the timing 
plate for it. 
--plug six was firing rarely(using intuction timing light) ( possible weak 
fire, check voltage on bottom right of resistor during cranking. )

John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


   



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:43:51 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: New Owner - a few questions

Tire pressure has profound effect on ride quality. 23 PSI is quite 
comfortable. As do the shocks. Also an accurate alignment.
Jim 6147



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 00:38:50 -0000
From: "georad1" <georad_at_dml_gehennatech.com>
Subject: Frequency Valve question

Hi group,
I have a question regaurding the proper operation of the frequency valve. When the engine is warm, is it normal for the valve to stop "buzzing" every 10-15 seconds or should it constantly buzz?
Lately I've had an irritating idle surge and noticed the surge is linked to the apparent intermittent operation of the valve. The valve buzzes constantly while the engine is cold/warming up, only when the engine is at operating temp. does this occur. Any suggestions?

George
#2196 




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 04:00:25 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Mid-Atlantic Fall Tour Info

For those of you in need of directions to the Mansion you can go to 
mapquest.com and use 575 Lamington Road Bedminster, New Jersey. The 
general directions are as follows:
Get onto Route 78 (It is a major east-west highway paralleling Route 
80 but about 30 miles to the south) It starts at Newark Airport and 
heads west to Pensylvania. The exit you want to get off at is #26. 
When you get off from either direction head north on Rattlesnake road 
till it ends (about 1 mile or so) Turn right onto Lamington Road 
heading east. I don't remember exactly how far but watch on the right 
side for a sign 575 lamington road. It is an unpretentious dirt road 
and you have to go a long ways before you get to pavement, a great 
lawn, and then the mansion. I suggest everyone bring a family band 
radio set to channel 12. When in the vicinity we will hear you and can 
help. It is also great to use when caravanning together from place to 
place.
 Exit 26 is a little west of where Route 287 meets Route 78 so if 
using 287 get off onto Rt 78 heading west.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> All who plan on attending the DeLorean Mid-Atlantic Fall Foliage 
Tour on October 19/20, please read this ENTIRE message..  (The rest of 
you can hit DELETE now)
> 





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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 20:27:15 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: clutch

well there is funny noises comming from the clutch area and follow clutch
application and engine rpm so i am going to do a clutch job.  but first
things first... is it easier to pull the rear facia and rear fenders and
pull the whole engine/tranny or pull the tranny on jackstands.  a few
questions, while I do buy from the dealers and use services of the dealers
(mainly DMCH) i am in a position of looking for a clutch kit elsewhere due
to cost.  but i will be buying a front frame extention from a dealer soon,
any of the dealers out there feel free to e-mail me an estmate to replace
front frame ext. and sway bar.  keep in mind, the car is in tucson so LA
dealers this is your moment to shine but will enterain offers from DMCH.
anyway back to the issue.  does anyone know if there is an application out
there that will crossover.  i'd rather not buy bits and pieces. I relize i
might have to buy the pilot bushing/bearing outta the kit.  or if no one
knows of a kit then bits and pieces will do.  I prefer zeeter parts and
don't fully like centerforce but if that's what you got...

Thanx,

Darkstar
#10246




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 04:19:41 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: help!

( Moderator's comment: There is a timing mark for both # 1 cyl and # 6 on the crankshaft pulley of the DeLorean version of the PRV engine. )

I think you're calling cylinder 1 by the wrong name -- shouldn't be
able to see timing mark from 6. Small technicality, but could confuse
others as they help.

You need to pull a plug or two. It's the only way to tell what's going
on inside your engine. I'd pay particular attention to the one that
isn't firing. If it's fouled with soot, either your mixture is too
rich or your spark is too weak (or timed too retarded). If it's burned
up or the metal's turned white, your mixtures's too lean (or the
timing's too advanced). You can also smell and feel the exhaust (after
your car is running again). A rich mixture is cool and smells like
gas. A weak mixture is hot and smells like molten metal. While you've
got a few plugs out of the car, compare resistance through them. I
have fried the rod inside, but that was on a car with points.

Am a little surprised by your cold start valve. Five seconds is way
too long for my mine (floods in two or three). I never could jump with
warm up regulator and get back to engine in time. Have you tried
starting the car with it unplugged? Use a LITTLE starting fluid if
necessary.

Must point out slight typo in John Hervey's reply: turning CO2
adjusting screw to right will lean the mixture, not richen. He is
correct to turn it in small increments only. If you go cranking that
thing around recklessly you may never get your engine restarted.

If you suspect the idle speed motor, unplug it and try cracking the
throttle plates or loosening the brass air bypass screws. John is
correct that without SOME air car will not start (remember that idle
air also moves air sensor plate -> piston in fuel distributor).

There's only so many places to look. John has approved your ignition
values. If you can see the timing mark on cylinder 1, the engine
hasn't jumped time or broken the chain (and it isn't timed crazy).
Apparently you've got fuel at least as far as the distributor. I'd
suggest unplugging both the cold start valve and the idle speed motor,
cracking the throttle plates manually, squirting a few seconds of
starting fluid PAST the air sensor plate, and see if the engine won't
come to life.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Rob, Let me make some comments:
> When you say running rough, was that at idle, If so it sound like
the car is 
> starving for gas or needs a tune up. Make sure the idle speed motor is 
> turning on at idle and opening the valve. It does it through the
idle speed 
> switch. If it doesn't turn on and open the idle speed motor, it may not 
> start. Over time the control plunger may need adjusting. That's the
small 
> hole in front of the fuel distributor, at rest if it is sitting to
low the 
> car won't start. How fast will it idle and is it smooth or rough.1/4
turn to 
> the right will make a difference. 
> 
> fuel pump output volume exceeded specs after the fuel filter ( not the 
> problem )
> -cold start valve sprays approximately five seconds ( supposed to if 
> operating proper)
> -bypassing thermal time switch for fifteen seconds still did not
start car. 
> ( Car was most likley flooded. ) I wouldn't by pass.
> 
> ignition system:
> -checked resistence of ballist resistors ( should be 1 ohm full and
1/2 ohm 
> ea.)and ignition coil
> --ignition coil checked slightly high. ( will do so over time  but
normally 
> won't stop it from starting unless a wire id broken inside.If it is the 
> factory old one, I would change it.)
> ----substituted a coil from another delorean and no change ( ok )
> -checked spark at plug ends of wire for plugs 2, 3, 5, and 6 ( ok )
> --spark was orangish and arced about 3-sixtenths of an inch ( ok )
> ---never pulled any plugs to look ( no need to if it was running ok
when 
> stopped )
> 
> with ignition on, but not cranking:
> --voltage at first ballist resistor is 12.4 volts ( low, should be
at least 
> 12.66 which is battery voltage, but should not stop it from starting.) 
> --voltage at terminal 15 of coil was about 4.3 volts( ok, but what
was the 
> voltage on the resistor on the bottom right side during cranking.)
> --condensor to ground showed over 1.5 megohms. ( ok )
> 
> -timing at cranking speed using plug six about ten degrees btdc (
Timing at 
> idle should be at least 13 degrees before TDC. There is a mark on
the timing 
> plate for it. 
> --plug six was firing rarely(using intuction timing light) (
possible weak 
> fire, check voltage on bottom right of resistor during cranking. )
> 
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 04:39:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Lew <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: help! No start problem for Rob.

Rob:

I had the same problem several years ago and did
everything you listed.  But the thing I found was that
the plug at the firewall where all the wires go
through to the interior needs to be cleaned up. 
Apparently the connections were slightly corroded and
was killing the 12 volt to the ignition system
erratically.  I took them apart and cleaned them with
some electrical spray & a very tiny wire brush.  Once
that was done, everything started up and never had any
more problems.  Try that.  Good luck.

Richard



--- Robin Glebes <robglebes_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
>    I've been having trouble getting my delorean
> started.  I had been driving 
> and at a stop sign it stalled and would not restart.
>  It had been running 
> rough that day, but it was running.  I had it towed
> back to my house and 
> started checking it out.
>    The things I checked were as follows:
> fuel system:
> -fuel pump output volume exceeded specs after the
> fuel filter
> -cold start valve sprays approximately five seconds
> -bypassing thermal time switch for fifteen seconds
> still did not start car
> 
> ignition system:
> -checked resistence of ballist resistors and
> ignition coil
> --ignition coil checked slightly high
> ----substituted a coil from another delorean and no
> change
> -checked spark at plug ends of wire for plugs 2, 3,
> 5, and 6
> --spark was orangish and arced about 3-sixtenths of
> an inch
> ---never pulled any plugs to look
> 
> with ignition on, but not cranking:
> --voltage at first ballist resistor is 12.4 volts
> --voltage at terminal 15 of coil was about 4.3 volts
> --condensor to ground showed over 1.5 megohms
> 
> -timing at cranking speed using plug six about ten
> degrees btdc
> --plug six was firing rarely(using intuction timing
> light)
> 
> Thanks for any help.  Hopefully it's something
> obvious that I overlooked.
> -Rob
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
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> 
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> 
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 09:31:27 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Frequency Valve question

George, The frequency valve should be constantly buzzing or adjusting the 
pressure in the lower chamber of the fuel distributor. It's controlled by the 
Lambda ECU box which gets it's signal / voltage change from the 02 sensor. 
Has the 02 sensor been changed lately. That's where I would start. It's very 
rare that the FV goes out.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 

<< I have a question regarding the proper operation of the frequency valve. 
When the engine is warm, is it normal for the valve to stop "buzzing" every 
10-15 seconds or should it constantly buzz?
 Lately I've had an irritating idle surge and noticed the surge is linked to 
the apparent intermittent operation of the valve. The valve buzzes constantly 
while the engine is cold/warming up, only when the engine is at operating 
temp. does this occur. Any suggestions?
 
 George
 #2196 
  >>



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:18:02 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Hi from Evansville (club award)

Great weather, Great attendance, Great Time had by all.

The Best Club Participation Award was presented to Marty Maier and all
the Delorean owners that attended the Evansville Autofest this weekend
on the riverfront in Evansville, IN.  Dennis Gage (MCC) presented the
award to Marty and the D group, right on the new $10 million restored
waterfront entertainment area, only a few feet from the Ohio River.
This made for a nice backdrop for the awards and the MCC show taping.

Thanks again to everyone who made this a great weekend event.  And
even though we did lose a little of the spotlight this year to the
Amphibious cars for an hour or two, I'll try to make sure to have the
Delorean Hover Conversion there next time, to run out on the river.

The D Rex has a similar 'secret' starting procedure as Biff's car in
the BTTF movies, which took Dennis Gage a few attempts to figure out,
but he was able to get the "hang of it" to get a good take for his
show.  I'm sure we will find out soon when the show will be aired.
Dennis was also quite impressed with the screaming yellow D, sitting
in a "sea of stainless" on the river front.

The AutoFest show was also a reunion of sorts, with Todd's VIN...6681
and my newly re-acquired VIN..6683 refurbished car.  It was the first
chance we had to get a photo op of these two siblings close together,
probably together for the first time in about 20 years.

(yes, I do own a few 'normal' Deloreans too)

There were many things that will make this event memorable, including
some of the odd food choices from the vendors, ranging from deep fried
candy bars to BBQ bologna.  The one thing that I'm sure most people
will soon forget is that the show was on streets that were faded.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Greetings from Evansville IN Autofest 2002. I've uploaded a couple 
of 
> photos to the "photos" section (look in "Evansville") - Dennis Gage 
> in Rich W's D-Rex filming the close of "My Classic Car" and the 
> lineup of the 14 DeLoreans that were featured. They treated us well 
> giving is the prime position lined up at the riverfront. I should be 
> able to get more pics on the dmcnews.com webpage in a day or so.
> 
> We toured here from as far away as Minnesota and Colorado. Special
> cars included of course D-Rex and Ron Wester's screaming yellow D.
> 
> Dave Swingle (here with Marty, Bruce, and others too numerous to 
> mention...)




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