From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1227
Date: Monday, October 07, 2002 4:22 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. How is the current status on the DMC-2?
From: "cyberzechidna" <ksarfaraz123_at_dml_attbi.com>

2. Re: Platinum +4 plugs...
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

3. Door Lock update
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

4. coolant leak, pitted pipe?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

5. Re: The D gets cheaper every day.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

6. Re: those &^%$# door lights
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

7. Re: coolant leak, pitted pipe?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

8. freak oil leak
From: RFLRKV_at_dml_cs.com

9. Re: those &^%$# door lights
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. minor wiring harness question
From: "Hank Eskin" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

11. Door Alignment
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

12. Speaking of the Automatic Trans..
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

13. Re: those &^%$# door lights
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Digest Number 1226
From: mgailey_at_dml_emindustries.com

15. Help! Trunk stuck closed
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Women of Hooters
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 20:06:35 -0000
From: "cyberzechidna" <ksarfaraz123_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: How is the current status on the DMC-2?

Does anyone know? and when is the next big DMC meet? I gotta know so 
I can restore my D (vin#1930) :)




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 16:00:45 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Platinum +4 plugs...

i know that platinum plugs run hotter and they are a no no for supercharged or turbo
engines.

mark

Adam wrote:

> Can anyone who has used these plugs give me their opinion of them? I
> am doing a tune-up soon and am thinking of using these plugs. Also
> what heat rating do you suggest for an engine with 75,000 miles on
> it, is it different for the platinum plugs?
>
> thanks for all input!
>
> Adam
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 19:45:59 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Door Lock update

Thanks to all who wrote regarding my door lock question.   Perhaps this
will help some of you who also have lock issues.   Yes, it is true that
the LOCKZILLA unit did not cure my door locking problem but I knew this
going in.  When I was at Rob's last year he hooked up one of his ZILLA
units to my system to check it out and it did not work right.  I knew
that I was going to have to replace the solenoids but was unsure how the
routing of the signal flowed.  To recap:  The drivers side switch would
lock/unlock both sides but the passenger side switch would only lock the
drivers side and NOT unlock it.

I first replaced the passenger side solenoid........did not cure the
problem.  I cleaned the contacts on the switch toggles unit to ensure
good contact.   I then replaced the drivers side solenoid, Viola!  Both
doors now operated as they should!!  So even though the drivers side
would lock and unlock the passenger side it was the drivers side
solenoid that was bad.   One of you called this right but I decided to
still swap out the passenger side first as a matter of testing the whole
system.

The LOCKZILLA unit will prevent the new units from burning up and I am
very pleased with the fact that it even sound better.  The old module
made a loud clicking sound when activated.   I am also eager to get the
remote locking add-on as well as the launchers!   I was quite pleased
that I was able to do this project by myself.  I'm not a mechanic but
with the help and advise of this list I was able to remove my armrests
and get to the solenoids!!  Thanks


Tom
#005732





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 19:17:58 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: coolant leak, pitted pipe?

Hey all-
I've been experiencing some coolant loss and it's got me rattled. Just so
you know-- the oil looks clean on the dipstick and the exhaust pipes seem
dry.
The only puddles or wet spots I've seen have been from the drain plug on the
water pump so I've given that a little more torque.
But I still lost some more.
So I started an inch by inch inspection starting at the back.
On the left side (this is the hot side, right?) I found this discolored
section of pipe in between the rubber hoses. It also seems to be pitted
right there. The discoloration looks orange on top, but other angles/views
looks green. The colors seems to be important to me because I've been using
the orange dextrol this past season but it was green stuff before that.
here's a pic in the photo vault at yahoo:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/&.src=gr&.dnm=coolant
pipe_combo.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.src=gr%26.view=t

or just go to photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews and browse to the end.

What do you think? I'd think that if it were a significant leak I'd see
puddles in the parking lot or drips while idling. I'm definitely going to
pay attention and run it a LITTLE tomorrow, but as little as possible until
I figure it out.

Thanks,
Kevin
#4687




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 00:28:39 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: The D gets cheaper every day.

That's quite a equasion you've got there, but the comparison is really apples 
to oranges. The price of cars now days compared to what they formally were 
are not just increased due to simple currency inflation. There are many factors 
to take into account.

First, look at the technology that goes into these cars. Engine management 
electronics, including fuel injection, emissions controls, electronic 
transmissions, OBD II systems, etc... And then there's safety electronics and 
features, and these are things such as SRS airbags, ABS brakes, impact 
zones,etc... Not to mention the interior comforts and gadgets that many people 
expect in new cars.

Now apply this kind of thinking to the DeLorean. Gullwing doors to me, are the 
ultimate creature comfort. But they are by no means cheap. Conventional 
doors are not so much cheap and easy, as they are a tried and tested 
concept. So they are pretty simple to adapt to any car. Gullwings required new 
engineering and testing to be designed, and then had to be adapted for the 
car. And the installation of them are not cheap either. Extra bits such as struts, 
torsion bars, longer wiring harnesses, and dual striker pins are not cheap. So 
the price can add up quickly. Combine this with other unique technology, and 
engineering that was needed to be done, and you can see why the price tag 
rose so quickly.

Another problem here is that we're comparing a middle class sedan, to an 
upper class sports car. This isn't a slam against anyone or their cars. It's just 
that the sedan is more likely to be sold in higher volumes, and thus can 
become less expensive fo consumers. Which is why a Honda _at_dml_ the time can 
have a lower sticker price.

So really, there isn't a true comparison here. But, if you would like to see an 
excellent case of deappriciation of a car, hit up the online classifieds for 
exotics, and compare the price of a brand new Lotus Esprit to one that's a 
year old. Compare that to the DeLorean, and see how stable they are at 
generally holding their values.

Is what D-1 charges for a DeLorean in line with what the sticker price of a new 
one today might cost if the company was still in business? Who knows. You've 
got prices all over the place for sports, and super cars. Esprits & Jaguars are 
up in the $90K+ range, and Corvettes are down in the $40-$50K's. 
Contemplating the "what-if's" when it comes to DeLoreans is like playing 
throwing darts with Steven Hawkings, and trying to let him win on purpose. It's 
too long and exhausting to even bother.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "treehouse2000us" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> If the above statment is true, I'll get my Delorean in no time.
> 
> Ok, here is the reasoning.  Say it was the year 1982, and you had 
> pretty much unlimited resources to buy a car.  The first on you look 
> at is a DeLorean.  The standard price is a hefty 25 k.  Then for some 
> reason, you decided to buy a Honda, for only, oh, $3900.
<SNIP> 
> Anyway, once you arive you discover that a "NEW" Delorean costs 32K.  
> Then you pull out your trusty Accounting book size calculator and do 
> a little math.
> 
> The Honda in 1982 costs 3900 verus a 2003 model Honda for 15,000.  
> Thats an increase of 384%.
> 
> The DeLorean in 1982 was roughly $25,000, and a refurb one today 
> costs 33,000.  Thats 132% increase.
> 
> You quickly come to a conclusion, inflation is horrible, and a hover 
> conversion on your 1982 Honda will cost around 40 grand in 2015.  No, 
> thats not it.   The DeLorean however is adverting Inflaton rather 
> well despite the inferior counterparts of todays automobiles which 
> cost over 300% more.  My advice, the cost of our cars wont increase 
> in large intervals for another 10-20 years, when the DeLorean actualy 
> does become rather scarce as more people paint them, or reck them.
> 
> On a final note, I hate to say this, the somewhat outragious price 
> that D One has on its cars should be correct for today.  After all, 
> what are people's estimates on what they think your car is worth?  
> Darn, I guess they are right after all.  (Just dont increase the 
> price yet till I get my own car, thanks a lot!)
> 
> Tom Porter




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 17:49:24 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: those &^%$# door lights

When you finally get fed up with these switches and you know which end of a
soldering iron gets hot visit here:
http://personal.picusnet.com/dsontos/page1.html

Dave Sontos
02573
----- Original Message -----
From: <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 11:07 PM
Subject: [DML] those &^%$# door lights


> I have the most frustrating door lights of all time.....I can sit there a
> million times and push the little door light/door ajar button and the
lights
> go out instantly. As soon as I close the door, the lights stay
on!!!!!....Is
> this magic? Obviously the door closing shut is not pushing that little
knob
> at all or maybe somehting is shorting somewhere...
>
> I have the rubber tip on it and it is secured correctly on the side of
> dash.....My door closes perfectly. I know these lights staying on is a
common
> problem and a major source of battery drain. When I drive, the red door
ajar
> light blinks intermittently just to remind me the problem is there :-)  I
> have now just unhooked the electricity to that switch until I find a
> solution. I hate worrying every time I close the door that the lights are
> going out and I'll have a dead battery after a few
days...solutions?....Are
> there better door switches out there?.....
>
> Mike C
> 2109
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 23:34:06 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: coolant leak, pitted pipe?

When I took out my coolant pipes, I found the same thing.  There was
pitting thast went straight through the aluminum pipe right at a junction
with a rubber hose.  You may not notice a leak, becuase it's on the hot
side, it could spray out gaseously and disappear.  Once I blew a rubber
hose, and the only telltale (besides the billow of white smoke out the
back of the car) was that some of it recondensed onto the (cold) rear
fascia.  I lost at least 2 gallons of anitfreeze, and mopped up less than
a cup's worth off the car.    

Jim 1537


On Sun, 6 Oct 2002 19:17:58 -0500 "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
writes:
> Hey all-
> I've been experiencing some coolant loss and it's got me rattled. 
> Just so
> you know-- the oil looks clean on the dipstick and the exhaust pipes 
> seem
> dry.



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 00:16:56 -0400
From: RFLRKV_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: freak oil leak

I 'jumped' my D-12. It over heats. Now oil is running out behind the waterpump pulley. No coolant; pure oil. Can't see it. W.P. remove is a major disassemble job. Can anyone give me a hint??!!-Richard



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 04:51:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: those &^%$# door lights

Try message #26916 and follow the threads. Don't know if this is the
wiring harness problem I remembered or not...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I have the most frustrating door lights of all time.....I can sit
there a 
> million times and push the little door light/door ajar button and
the lights 
> go out instantly. As soon as I close the door, the lights stay
on!!!!!....Is 
> this magic? Obviously the door closing shut is not pushing that
little knob 
> at all or maybe somehting is shorting somewhere...
> 
> I have the rubber tip on it and it is secured correctly on the side of 
> dash.....My door closes perfectly. I know these lights staying on is
a common 
> problem and a major source of battery drain. When I drive, the red
door ajar 
> light blinks intermittently just to remind me the problem is there
:-)  I 
> have now just unhooked the electricity to that switch until I find a 
> solution. I hate worrying every time I close the door that the
lights are 
> going out and I'll have a dead battery after a few
days...solutions?....Are 
> there better door switches out there?.....



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 10:51:24 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: minor wiring harness question


Hello All,

 I've been working in my center console area making some minor
modifications.  In the process, I've returned my dimmer rheostat to John
Harvey to be repaired... and I have a question about the five leads that run
to it.

There are four Red/Orange leads in two pairs, and one Red/White lead.  There
is +12V power on one pair of the Red/Orange leads, which when connected to
the single Red/White lead powers the dashboard lights (very brightly, I
might add).

What I'd like to know is where do the other pair of Red/Orange leads lead
to, and should they be powered with the dashboard lights?  I looked at the
Zilla schematic, and I can't trace where they go, or exactly what their
function is.  With the switch removed, is there something important
somewhere that is going unpowered?  As far as I can tell, all other lights
in the car are working, so there is nothing obviously not working.

Thanks,

-Hank




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:19:50 -0400
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Door Alignment


My drivers side door is out of alignment and it has been for many months now.  When I go to open the drivers side door now, it sqeaks and squeals. If i oil the hinges it goes away for a day or so but comes back.  
I think that is from the door not be aligned properly.  How can I realign my door?  Or would a body shop be able to align it?

Thanks
 Willie Mack
 Vin 5043



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:18:34 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Speaking of the Automatic Trans..

I am still having a problem that I'd like to fix in order to get another year out for the 3 speed slushbox before doing a conversion to 5 speed...


Because of the turbo, the transmission does not shift correctly.  Here is what I have observed:

With the vacuum line to the transmission connected, with a inline valve (the thing that works like a diode, to only allow vacuum and no boost) "normal" driving is fine.  Everything shifts fine with no problem.  Deceleration is fine too.  However, under boost the transmission "slips" in third.  So, if I give it a little gas (not enough to downshift) the revs jump, but the car does not move.  If I downshift, all is well.  I have the same problem when accelerating from a dead stop (especially when hot) 3'rd gear will not grab under boost.

With the vacuum line disconnected and capped, acceleration of all types are fine.  All shifts (including 3rd) are solid and crisp.  However, when I decelerate the car likes to buck when between 30-40 MPH.  It feels like the car is shifting between 2 gears in a harmonic way.  As soon as I get slow enough (or give it gas) the problem goes away.


Maybe Dick Ryan has a good solution to this, he is the only other turbo automatic owner I know of...  But I'm willing to listen to anyone's ideas.

OR, if someone wants to give me a hand swapping the Auto with a 5-speed sometime soon that would be a better fix!  :)

Thanks



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 17:50:24 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: those &^%$# door lights

I had the same problem with my caron the passenger side. The switch 
had actually been pushed too far into the dashboard where it mounts 
and so the door wasnt pushing it in far enough. I went through two 
dead batteries before I figured it out... Right now I just have the 
switch unhooked..

Adam





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I have the most frustrating door lights of all time.....I can sit 
there a 
> million times and push the little door light/door ajar button and 
the lights 
> go out instantly. As soon as I close the door, the lights stay 
on!!!!!....Is 
> this magic? Obviously the door closing shut is not pushing that 
little knob 
> at all or maybe somehting is shorting somewhere...
> 
> I have the rubber tip on it and it is secured correctly on the side 
of 
> dash.....My door closes perfectly. I know these lights staying on 
is a common 
..



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 15:37:58 -0400
From: mgailey_at_dml_emindustries.com
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1226


I hoping the moderators let this through...
1981 Delorean for sale. The first offer over $9,000 takes it.
Yes, there's a catch. She needs a fuel pump so you'll have to trailer it.
Its got a couple of other things wrong with it as well, but also a bunch of
new parts as well. email me for the complete story. I was getting her ready
for the road(was a daily driver before, and should be an excellent daily
driver when done), but I'm divorced and lawyer fees are going to kick my
butt so I need to rid of it now not later. Should be a heck of a car for
the right person.
email me at:   mgailey_at_dml_emindustries.com

Matthew 3946






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 12:43:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Help! Trunk stuck closed

I know this isn't something discussed on the open list, so I didn't check the archives, and I'll ask that any replies be sent to me directly  at dmcox_at_dml_delorean.com  As I was getting ready to head out to a car show Sunday, I went to open the trunck, and nothing!  I had openied it earlier that morning, no problem.  Now, there is no tension on the cable at all, and the hood won't open.  Fortunately I had filled the tank the night before, so I have plenty of gas - no hood flap on my car!  The cable does not appear to have broken - it is still securely attatched to the handle.  I used a pair of pliers to pull the cable further than is possible with the handle, and could hear movement and feel some pressure from the lock, so it seems that the other end is still attached.  I do not have a spare release cable set up - it's on my list of things-to-do, but since my cable seemed to be in good shape, it wasn't a very high priority.  There is enough gas in the tank to get my to the closest service center, so that is an option also.

Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can open my trunk?

Thanks,
Dave    DMCox(AT)delorean.com>
vin 16367



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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 14:09:51 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Women of Hooters



Great Picture in the Vault.

They all loved the DeLorean.

Sincerely,
Michael Pack



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