From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1230
Date: Thursday, October 10, 2002 9:49 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Stainless Steel Illusion **FINAL NOTE FROM KENNETH**
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

2. Re: 17000 series
From: JVC220_at_dml_aol.com

3. RE: 17000 series
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. RE: Evansville Autofest Pics
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_charter.net>

5. Window felt trim
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

6. Re: Re: Manifold heat stove...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. RE: 17000 series
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Re: 2500 RPM vibration noise (was Manifold heat stove...)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

9. SSI Reprints!
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

10. Re: The D gets cheaper every day.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: those &^%$# door lights
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Door Alignment
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Fan Speed
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: 2500 RPM vibration noise (was Manifold heat stove...)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: freak oil leak
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Only running on five cylinders
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Window felt trim
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

18. Re: Fan Speed
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

19. Re: Re: Door Alignment
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

20. Lockzilla is the best product of it's kind!
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. living the dream
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

22. Re: Fabricating Anything?
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

23. Re: Fan Speed
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

24. BTTF Doc Brown Costume
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

25. Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 00:30:52 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: Stainless Steel Illusion **FINAL NOTE FROM KENNETH**

MODERATOR * I know that this thread is ENDED, but if you could please
let this message through to let everybody know what I am doing**
 
Well, much to my disappointment. I am UNABLE to send the Stainless Steel
Illusion PDF to everybody who requested it.
 
Many DML members have supported this, but there are few who felt VERY
STRONGLY about me NOT sending this out.
 
I was told that if the PDF file was distributed, that "further" action
would be taken.
 
SO in my best interests I have decided against it.
 
I apologize to everybody who emailed me regarding this, as much as I
would LOVE to help you out and send you a copy, I cannot due to this
legal issure.
 
Sincerely and Regretfully
Kenneth
05541



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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 07:26:48 EDT
From: JVC220_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 17000 series

As an owner of a 17000 series car, it was my understanding that the exhaust 
tips were not on any of the 17000 cars but were on the rest of the '83s.  I 
was told that they had to be taken off for some Canadian regulation at the 
time.

Adam
#17086 (no tips)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 13:05:01 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: RE: 17000 series

My 83, vin 20049, had no tips.

  It does now thanks to my new "free flow" Polished stainless steel exhaust
system! Incidentally, the BHP was increased by 20% just by fitting the new
system!
 Details later as soon as the photo's  and data are loaded to the website.


Chris P  DOC UK


-----Original Message-----
From: Adam [mailto:acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: 09 October 2002 04:02
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] 17000 series


I thought it was the 83s that had exhaust tips.. My 83 has exhaust
tips, as far as I know they are stock.

vin 16683

Adam



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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 06:12:51 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: RE: Evansville Autofest Pics

Hi Dave,
	Great pix of the Evansville event.   Also I went back and looked at the
site with all the Memphis 2002 pix.  It brought back good memories again!
Not sure if I met you or not.  SO many I wanted to say hello to and there
just was not enough time and hard to locate people.  Everyone looked alike!!
	My only "claim to fame" there, was that I got the OLDEST Delorean owner
plaque.....which I would have preferred NOT to qualify for!  Ho ho.  and I
was wearing my "roulette wheel" flashing name badge......and besides that,
have videos of Kathryn kissing me!!    I expect to try for seconds at Pigeon
Forge.  We have our hotel reservations!
	Murray Fisher
	Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
	Walla Walla, WA





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 09:21:46 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Window felt trim

Does anyone know where to get this stuff?   I saw the $10.00 fix on a
site but I was wondering if anyone sells just the trim felt?  Does the
$10.00 fix put too much pressure on the glass?  Also, are these new Ford
pieces or are they used?

In the interim, I attached the soft fuzzy part of velcro to the trim
piece....seems to work o.k. and is holding.  I'm not sure if this soft
facing will scratch the windows (mine are already scratched).  There was
already some of this velcro on the inside part of the door for the
backside of the glass that faces to the outside.  Was this factory?  Did
they actually intall velcro as a padding for the windows?

Tom
#005732




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 15:00:13 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Manifold heat stove...

Adam, it's most likely the heatshields on the top of the exhaust 
crossover pipe. NB they can feel tight even when they're not. I could 
not move them by hand, but only by enthusiastically thumping the pipe 
did I discover the rattle that had been driving me up the wall. In 
trying to undo the mounting nuts I discovered the one of the mounting 
brackets was broken on one side. I clamped the whole lot down with a big 
jubilee clip - it's a bit  heath-robinson, but it works and nobody ever 
sees it.

Martin
#1458 & #4426

Adam wrote:

>I was wrong about the vibration sound: its back, exactly the same as 
>before I removed the heat stove. John thinks it may be a motor mount, 
>I will check it out tomorrow. 
>
>Adam 
>
>  
>





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 09:56:52 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: 17000 series

This has been a source of discussion before, especially when accuracy of the DMCH judging manual is questioned.

I have seen both the early and late style exhaust on STOCK 1983 DeLoreans.  I'm not sure if there is some other indicator (Vin? Build date?  interior color?).  It would be great if information like this could be added to the DML production chronology.  I'd also like to see frame and engine serial numbers to see if we can make sense of any correlations.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Adam [mailto:acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 11:02 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] 17000 series
> 
> 
> I thought it was the 83s that had exhaust tips.. My 83 has exhaust 
> tips, as far as I know they are stock.
> 
> vin 16683
> 
> Adam
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 14:33:15 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: 2500 RPM vibration noise (was Manifold heat stove...)

Adam,

When a metal vibration noise is heard at 2500-2800 rpm, you may want
to check the heatshield on the cross-over pipe.  Although this is a
difficult area to inspect if the car is not up on a lift, you can
still get to it by jacking up the back end and using jack stands.

The welds on the cross-over pipe heat shield do deteriorate more
quickly than the actual heat shields or cross-over pipes.  As far as
a fix is concerned, to retain originality, this needs to be re-welded
to secure it.  However, as a temporary or a semi-permanent fix, to
stop the vibration noise, use a large stainless steel hose clamp
around the heat shield and cross-over pipe, holding the heat shield
against the cross-over pipe, eliminating the vibration noise.  One
side usually breaks free first, requiring only one clamp, but this 
will vary based on the number of welds that are rusted through or
broken due to vibration, over time.  You will need to inspect it.

Hope this helps.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I was wrong about the vibration sound: its back, exactly the same as 
> before I removed the heat stove. John thinks it may be a motor 
mount, 
> I will check it out tomorrow. 
> 
> Adam 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Well I tore off my manifold heat stove today. I was getting an 
> > annoying vibration sound during acceleration around 2500 rpms from 
> > the passenger side engine bay. When i checked the stove today it 
> was 
> > extremely loose and rusty. The little bolts holding it on broke 
off 
> > when i tried to remove them. Anyway, the buzz noise seems to be 
> gone.
> > 
> > Also while I was down there I noticed that the exhaust manifold is 
> > missing a nut.. dammit.
> > 
> > Adam




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 14:35:36 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: SSI Reprints!

James! That email could not have come at a better time
 
In light of the recent announcements to reprint the SSI book. I don't
feel all that bad
 
Now IF it does get reprinted (which I and am sure many others hope DOES)

 
Everybody will have a opportunity to enjoy this FINE book!
 
-Heres to hopes of a reprint!
 
Kenneth
05541
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 19:41:43 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: The D gets cheaper every day.

You're right, a "D" that is rotting in a garage is worth less every 
day. A "D" that is kept up and is in nice shape should hold it's value 
or even appreciate a little as inflation rises. Parts prices also go 
up so it will cost more in the future to get a neglected "D" back in 
to shape. If you take care of your toys then they will always have 
more value then neglected ones. They are also much easier to sell if 
that day ever has to come! BTW if an owner bought a "D" brand new back 
in 81 for $25,000 and sold it today for $15-$20,000 I don't think he 
is doing so well as yesterday's $25,000 is probably today's $50,000. 
Of course that assumes that the car is in something resembling 
"reasonable" condition.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I actually had a simular expierence last saturday,
> well minus the time traveling honda. I was at a
> clients house and we got talking cars somehow. The
> DeLorean came up and instantlly she quoted a price
> around $150,000, imagine how many you could buy with





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 19:53:13 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: those &^%$# door lights

You might be able to fix it by removing the switch and making up a 
small spacer out of cardboard or plastic and put it behind the switch. 
Those switches are a  pain to reinstall because there is a small clip 
that has to go on the screw along with the washer and nut so it 
becomes a juggling act to get it all together. Another way is to 
remove the rubber tip and cut a small piece of rubber hose, slide it 
onto the plunger and trim to fit so the light goes out when you close 
the door.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I have the most frustrating door lights of all time.....I can sit 
there a 
> million times and push the little door light/door ajar button and 





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 20:00:42 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Alignment

Unless you are absolutly certain the hinges have been disturbed DO NOT 
attempt to adjust them. Try a little oil on the ends of the struts, 
drip some oil on the hinges, and spray with a good penetrating 
lubricant like WD-40. The weatherstripping can also make a squeak so a 
little silicon spray sprayed onto a rag and wiped onto the outer seal 
helps. Especially around the spot by the sun visor going down the "a" 
pillar. The door cannot be realigned safely without removing the 
torsion bar. It is VERY difficult to align a door so if it hasn't been 
disturbed chances are you won't be able to align it any better than it 
already is.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> 
> My drivers side door is out of alignment and it has been for many 
months now.  When I go to open the drivers side door now, it sqeaks 
and squeals. If i oil the hinges it goes away for a day or so but 
comes back.  
> I think that is from the door not be aligned properly.  How can I 
realign my door?  Or would a body shop be able to align it?
> 
> Thanks
>  Willie Mack
>  Vin 5043
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 20:08:30 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fan Speed

Make sure that the fan is rotating in the correct direction. If not 
you will have to reverse the wires going to the motor. Check that all 
of the actuaters are working, a vacuum leak or a hissing mode switch 
will affect the actuaters from moving correctly. The different speeds 
are controlled by the fan speed switch selecting the different relays 
and not different taps on the motor. Make sure all of the ducts are 
connected, a missing or badly fitted duct will allow too much air to 
escape and you will have less comming out the vents. This means check 
the seals going to the doors and the duct inside going to the vent on 
the door panel.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> There is a rubber boot that connects the rear of those two center 
vents to
> the main air duct behind the dash. Have you verified that the boot 
is
> connected properly? I had this problem after a radio install and 





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 20:11:13 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: 2500 RPM vibration noise (was Manifold heat stove...)

Jusr a wild guess but check the bracket that holds the muffler up on 
the right side just over the alternater. That bracket has been known 
to crack and can be causing the noise you hear.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Adam,
> 
> When a metal vibration noise is heard at 2500-2800 rpm, you may want
> to check the heatshield on the cross-over pipe.  Although this is a
> difficult area to inspect if the car is not up on a lift, you can
> still get to it by jacking up the back end and using jack stands.
> 





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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 20:22:19 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: freak oil leak

If you are sure it is oil there is no easy way to fix it, it could be 
a cracked block, blown head gasket etc. You will probably tear apart 
more then just the water pump to fix this one! If the engine has been 
severly overheated you are probably facing a complete tear-down in any 
case. Verify that is is indeed losing oil. Pull the dipstick and make 
a note of how much is in it (add some if you have to to stay above the 
low mark). Run the motor a few minutes and recheck the dipstick. If it 
is losing oil then the dipstick will prove it. If it is not oil you 
will still be pulling the water pump to fix a coolant leak. Looks like 
either way that water pump is comming out!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RFLRKV_at_dml_c... wrote:
> I 'jumped' my D-12. It over heats. Now oil is running out behind the 
waterpump pulley. No coolant; pure oil. Can't see it. W.P. remove is a 
major disassemble job. Can anyone give me a hint??!!-Richard




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 20:37:55 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Only running on five cylinders

Which 5 cylinders is it running on? Just kidding. How did you check 
the fuel injectors? The most likely causes of poor running, ie: 
running on 5 cyl, is worn, bad spark plugs, dirty, plugged fuel 
injectors, and ignition wires getting old and the insulation breaking 
down. The only good way to check the fuel injectors is to remove them 
and have them tested and cleaned in a fuel injector tester. If the 
ignition system is origional replacing wires and plugs is an excellant 
idea. Add fuel filter, air filter, oil change, and oil filter. You may 
also need an O2 sensor (depending on mileage). I also recomend 
replacing the seals on the fuel injectors and checking for vacuum 
leaks. If the fuel in the car is stale it will never run right so 
remove it and replace with fresh (if it smells like shoe polish it is 
time to go). After replacing all parts check timing, advance, (vacuum 
and mechanical), the cold start system, the idle system, and the 
lambda system. If the problem persists then you might need a valve 
adjustment and do a compression test to find the "dead" cylinder.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> After the cold weather started, for some reason my baby will only 
run on
> five cylinders.  Everything was perfect up until then, aside from 
some minor
> hesitation in the morning.  After checking the injectors (the ones I 
can get
> to) and finding them clean, I've just decided to do a tune up and 
replace





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 17:15:58 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Window felt trim

I got mine from DMC Houston but since it was 21 years old it fell apart
immediately so I glued it back together and now it is strong.  What happened
to your old piece?  Can you just glue it back to the rigid piece?  I think
that Velcro will scratch.

Joseph M
vin 2850

----- Original Message -----
From: "Watkins Family" <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
To: "DMC News list" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 09, 2002 9:21 AM
Subject: [DML] Window felt trim


> Does anyone know where to get this stuff?   



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 20:09:17 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Fan Speed

The center air vents have a shut off flap inside of them, make sure it is
open.

> When I first got my car, I had almost no variable fan speed.
> I took the blower apart this summer and cleaned the contacts and now there
is a clear distinction between speeds.  However, on the setting of 4  I
still can't feel the two center vents on my face.  I can only feel the air
about 6 inches away from the vents.  Is this normal?  Or should I probe
further?
>
> Thanks
>   Willie Mack
>   Vin 5043





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 19:30:34 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Door Alignment

WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is a water displacer... hint hint W= water D= displacer.
use something with PTFE or something like ZEP-40 or duralube spray or even white lithium
grease spray.

mark

jtrealtywebspannet wrote:

> Unless you are absolutly certain the hinges have been disturbed DO NOT
> attempt to adjust them. Try a little oil on the ends of the struts,
> drip some oil on the hinges, and spray with a good penetrating
> lubricant like WD-40. 



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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 01:28:22 -0000
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Lockzilla is the best product of it's kind!

I saw the Zila thread and wanted to make a few comments.

A good car battery will discharge just by sitting with nothing hooked 
to it. Even if you have a disconnect switch the battery will still 
slowly discharge.

With modern cars and attachments i.e. radios, alarms, Lockzillaz etc. 
there is additional discharging that is put on a battery. This 
nominal drain on the battery is normal and usually undetectable 
because the charging system (when functioning properly) recharges the 
battery each time we drive it.

Problems start to appear when the car sits, which is the case with 
most Deloreans. 

Two important facts about new car batteries.
1. Just because it is new does not make it a good battery
2. Usually cars with new batteries that have this type of discharge 
problem (and the battery is tested and confirmed good)have a small 
problem with a simple solution. The real problem is the battery is 
not fully charged! 

Most people don't ever fully charge the batteries on their cars.
Cars that just sit tend to get a quick charge but not a full charge.

The Solution to the problem is a float charger cost $10-50 dollars 
(the $10 one works just fine BTW)The float charger puts out about 50 
MA and keeps the battey charge toped off but does not boil of the 
electrolyte (cook the battery)  THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A TRICKLE 
CHARGER!

The proper way to use a float charger (and nobody does this) is to 
first fully charge the battery and then use the float charger to 
maintain the fully charged battery.

Hank, try to slow charge your battery for 24 48 hours. The
battery will have in the range of 85AH  (ampere hours) on it. If your 
only discharge on this battery is 30 MA at the end of 2 months the 
battery will still have about half it's capacity (which is
typical of
what many cars drive around with) enough charge to start the car 
(assuming it is a good battery).

As far as Bob and the Zila products go. Most people have no idea of 
the painstaking efforts that have gone into the Zilla Products. The 
time, money, effort and aggravation to make them the best products of 
their kind. Not only does it have to pass Bob's standards but
then they need to pass Rob Gradys requirements also. Some of the 
products have had years of design and prototyping before they get 
released tothe DeLorean world to be sold. Bob Zilla builds parts that 
are second to none. If people  knew the work Bob put into bringing 
only the best products possible (and standing behind every product he 
ever sold BTW). I think most people would agree Bob has the right to 
feel a little defensive about a thread that infers (intentionally or 
by accident) that any of the Zilla products are not the top quality in
every way.

If the sounds like a plug for Bob or the Zilla products my apologies 
I just stated the facts, as I know them.

WHAT I WILL PLUG IS THE 3RD ANNUAL DELOREAN FALL FOLIAGE TOUR!
ITS IN LESS THEN TWO WEEKS OCT 19TH AND 20TH

Please e-mail me if you are planing to attend or need more 
information turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com

Regards,

Mike D.







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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 19:37:32 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: living the dream

does anyone know about this guy and his website. i know he was going to travel the
states, buy a delorean, and go back home. he hasnt has an update since july 25th and
that was not even delorean related.
http://www.delorean-livingthedream.co.uk/index.htm

later
mark




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 22:13:05 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Fabricating Anything?

An EFI intake would be a reasonable and easy build. 
I've got dimensions on an intake design that I've been running for the last 
7000 miles or so.
Yours if you want them.
Email me off list.
Jim 6147  jwit6(AT)cs.com



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 20:09:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: Fan Speed

> When I first got my car, I had almost no variable fan speed. I took the
> blower apart this summer and cleaned the contacts and now there is a
> clear distinction between speeds.  However, on the setting of 4 I still
> can't feel the two center vents on my face.  I can only feel the air
> about 6 inches away from the vents.  Is this normal?  Or should I probe
> further?

Check the fan speed switch.  I was experiencing very low airflow from my
blower (and, curiously, the fan switch was operating backward--0 was most
powerful and 4 was off).  I found the switch to be faulty and replaced it.
I also replaced the resistor block while I was in there.  Now the blower
works great.

-andrew
 #4115
 Houston TX




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 09:37:07 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: BTTF Doc Brown Costume

In order to keep from junking up the group with updates, I've started a
temporary website so everyone can follow along and make your own:

http://tg2.vantagep.com/tm/index.php?page=costume&&link=1



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:50:15 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation

Okay, I want to thank everybody who has helped me with my little tune up
adventure I've undertaken.  I couldn't have gotten this far without you!

Now I have a new problem that has proven most frustrating (I'll spare you
what I really call it, due to my remaining sense of decency).  The car
simply won't run at all now.  Even when it was running on five cylinders, it
always immediately fired up without delay.  I reassembled everything with
the most care possible.  I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.  I
even had someone with me to check my every move.  We've confirmed the car is
getting spark, and it smells like it's getting fuel.  I hear the fuel pump
going and the frequency valve buzzing.  It just cranks and cranks without
any result.  It's like it's not even trying.

I got someone elses opinion, and they said it felt like the plug wires could
all be one off because it kind of "kicks" on every revolution.  We checked
them again and everything seems normal.  We hooked them up based on the
numbers on the cap.  Cylinders 1 2 and 3 are on the left bank (right of car)
and 4 5 and six are on the right bank (left of car).  Is this correct?  I
went by the number diagram in the repair manual.  I'm really hoping I don't
have to tear this all apart again!  We've spent hours double checking every
connection and hose on the car.  I had to quit to preserve my sanity.

My first repair attempt on the DeLorean has been most frustrating.
Unfortunately I have absolutely no options right now but to find a way to
fix it myself.  If anyone has any ideas of what to look for, I would be open
to anything.  Thank you for all your time and help!

payne





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