From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1234
Date: Saturday, October 12, 2002 10:29 AM

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There are 24 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: WD-40 as a lubricant
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

2. Re: Engine Transplants?
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Overheating problem?
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Re: Buying my first delorean - Fuel pickup system
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Alternator blues
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. Need a copy of DMC logo please
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

7. Re: No Heat :hot water valve?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

8. Clutch Kit
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

9. Re: Clutch Kit
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

10. ATTN: Steve Liggett (still on list?) Engine Transplant for Dan (message #28693)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. starting problem
From: <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

12. Re: Attn: Payne - Fuel pump relay
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

13. Another update on my tuneup, not going good.
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

14. Re: Engine Transplants?
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

15. Re: DeLorean for sale MARYLAND
From: "Mr_Woop_Ass" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>

16. Interesting story!
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: coolant leak under water pump
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: coolant leak under water pump
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Another update on my tuneup, not going good.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Correction: Fuel pump relay
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Engine Transplants?
From: "Dan" <copper_trace_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: No Heat :hot water valve?
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. RE: Engine Transplants?
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>

24. Re: DeLorean for sale MARYLAND
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 13:35:30 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: WD-40 as a lubricant

I agree wholeheartedly, and would take it a step further.  Not only 
is WD-40 a bad lubricant, I think it actually causes damage, because 
it is very effective in washing away whatever traces of proper 
lubricant might have been lingering in the joint, leaving a dry joint 
after the WD-40 runs off or evaporates.  I've learned this through 
experience.  I never spray WD-40 on moving parts, unless I intend to 
remove the WD-40 and relubricate them afterwards, or don't care.  I 
use synthetic grease on my door hinges, applied with a coffee 
stirrer, because my grease gun wouldn't quite reach.
I love WD-40.  It's great as a cleaner, a lubricant for cutting 
tools, and as a loosener of seized bolts.  It's a terrible lubricant 
for wear points.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> WD-40 isn't viscous enough to be used as a serious lubricant. 
Supposed
> to work OK to penetrate stuck pieces (note: LACK of viscosity) but
> IMHO better penetrating products are available. If you try to depend
> on any lightweight product as a lubricant (for anything other than
> sewing machines or model trains) you'll find neverending  
applications
> necessary. Even then you're probably experiencing excellerated wear.
> Is tempting due to easy propellant application, but spray greases 
are
> available. Best rule: if your grease gun will reach, use a proper
> lubricant.




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:33:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Transplants?

Hi Dan, there are all sorts of engines which have been
transplanted to the Delorean.  I'm personally doing
the Eagle 3.0 PRV conversion.  I don't think any
conversion would be classified as either easy or
cheap, however by using a later PRV variant, at least
the engine physically bolts in with stock parts,
eliminating the need for adapters, etc.  There are
however still pros and cons to the various options. 
For more info on my conversion, please email me
directly or check out the website at
www.projectdelorean.com.


=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com



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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:26:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Overheating problem?


 
I would suggest a new radiator cap they seem to be rather important on deloreans.The exhaust putting presure in the sysytem is unlikely the bubbles come from water boiling inside the engine block where it is still VERY hot even after sitting awhile.On most cars the coolant system is held under a slight pressure to help keep it from boiling,when you open the system and relieve the pressure the water can then boil.Make sure you are using a 50/50 or 60/40 ratio of antifreeze to water.

hope this helps a little




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more
faith.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 11:37:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Buying my first delorean - Fuel pickup system

Re DeLoreans on long trips -- While I don't have
cruise control, my DeLorean takes at least 3 trips a
year that are between 2000 & 3000 miles each.  This is
a very nice road car.

Dick Ryan


--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:

> 
> Re: DeLoreans on long trips -- after I install a
> cruise control, you
> guys in California may get to see #5939 in person.
> 


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:19:00 -0400
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator blues

That's right, If the bulb goes, so does the alternator. The voltage going thru the bulb supply's the power for the regulator in the alternator( Exciter Voltage ). I can do away with the problem, but you wouldn't have a battery light any more.( Remember #161 bulb only.) Then you may be ok. 
Do not run a straight voltage to the regulator. If you do then you will burn it up.
John
  

> What's that about making sure the dash light battery bulb? Are you saying if the Dash bulb is gone the alternator isn't 
> working to full capacity?



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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:28:11 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Need a copy of DMC logo please

Hi everyone..
I was wondering if anyone has a copy of the Delorean Logo that they
could send to me.  (The logo with "DMC" on top with "Delorean" below it)
 
I want to have it embroidered onto a jacket I just bought.
 
If you can send to to me today or tomorrow, that would be great!
 
delorean_at_dml_abato.net
 
Thanks
 
Kevin Abato
Vin 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:12:55 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: No Heat :hot water valve?

it is located in the front right of the engine compartment, kinda under
the frequency valve.  This is not your problem, most likely, as it is
normally OPEN, letting water through, and needs a vacuum in order to
close it.  This only happens at MAX AC.  I've never heard of a valve
being stuck closed.  More likely is the hot/cold dial and the cable that
opens and closes a flap to the heater core.  

Jim
1537

On Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:07:19 -0000 "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com> writes:
> My car hasnt had heat since I bought it. I looked for the hot water 
> valve but could not find it anywhere in the engine compartment. 
> Where 
> is this valve usually located?
> 
> Adam



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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:02:53 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: Clutch Kit

Hey all. that time has come
 
Time to replace the clutch
 
I was wondering..
 
Is there any PERFORMANCE clutch upgrade that can be done?
 
I basically want to replace
 
 
The disc, pressure plate, release bearing, rear main seal, pilot bearing
and bushing, as well as perhaps the clutch cable
 
The lines on the car have been upgraded to the brained stainless ones
 
What are suggestions of the list?
 
Thanks, 
Kenneth
05541
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 20:18:03 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch Kit

Good idea. No performance upgrade is really necessary, the stock 
clutch is a good match for the engine and trans. There is a 
Centerforce upgrade available but honestly I cannot tell the 
difference and would not put it in again. (I believe people that can 
tell the difference probably replaced a failing clutch. I replaced a 
good stock clutch since "I was in there anyway".) OR they drive a LOT 
harder than I do. Just my opinion.

The Centerforce clutch is actually a modified OEM (Valeo) clutch, NO 
difference in the disc, but some fly-weights on the pressure plate to 
increase the clamping force at high RPM. I've never noticed high RPM 
slipping to be a DeLorean issue. 

Only problem with your suggestion is that there is not a 
clutch "cable. You should replace the master and slave hydraulics and 
the fluid line if it is still the original black plastic one. 

I did this about 2 years ago, my only regret is not changing the rear 
main seal. Do it!

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Time to replace the clutch
>  
> Is there any PERFORMANCE clutch upgrade that can be done?
> I basically want to replace
>
> The disc, pressure plate, release bearing, rear main seal, pilot 
bearing
> and bushing, as well as perhaps the clutch cable
>  
> The lines on the car have been upgraded to the brained stainless 
ones




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 21:24:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: ATTN: Steve Liggett (still on list?) Engine Transplant for Dan (message #28693)

Steve Liggett transplanted a carbureted Vortec. Sent me beaucoups nice
photos.

Doesn't Darryl Tinnerstet have a Chevy block in his D?
(www.delorean-parts.com)

FWIW: You may be where I was this time last year. Coming from
carbureted American blocks, was very wary of PRV (really of any fuel
injection, foreign or otherwise). Now that I've stumbled across a
14,000 mile car is no way I'd pull current block prematurely. PRV
isn't perfect. Certainly isn't high performance. But it does work, and
appears quite reliable once back to specs. Chances are your fine new
ride will have many other issues to address outside the engine
compartment. If the car runs, I'd spend money on interior, suspension,
fuel supply, list goes on... first. Trust me, THAT will be more
expensive than you now estimate. In mean time you may find factory
engine liveable. If not, engine swap can always be one of the last
things you do.

Bill Robertson
#5939







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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 17:31:28 -0400
From: <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: starting problem

Hi Everyone!

I'm a new owner (2 weeks) and I've already hit my first snag. I was removing some non-standard wiring from the fuse block that a previous owner had installed for a cellphone. The wires jumped into fuses 11 and 17. Afterwards, my car ran fine but I had lost all systems the fuse 11 powered. I inspected the socket and saw that the add-in jumper had expanded the socket, so the fuse alone wasn't able to make a connection. I plugged the jumper back in (sealing off the other end of the jumper wire so the power couldn't go anywhere) and now the car won't start. She'll turn over, the fuel pump engages when I try to start it, and all the fuses are good. I've loosened a fuel line going to an injector just a little and saw gas coming out when it was starting. I've check to see if the spark plugs are getting spark, which they are. 

If anyone has any ideas, please share!

Thank you!

Eric Itzel
Vin #04433
Sevierville, TN
Eric_at_dml_seviernet.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 15:50:57 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Attn: Payne - Fuel pump relay

Please forgive my naiveté, but my electrical experience is nearly
nonexistent.  What do I use to jump the wires, another connector, or just a
wire?  I'm just afraid of doing more harm than good.  Many things have
caught fire by my hands.  I had to put a computer to rest because of my poor
electrical skills.

Thank you!

payne
----- Original Message -----
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: [DML] Attn: Payne - Fuel pump relay


> Fuel pump relay is rear bank, fourth from end (#106 on the wiring
> diagram).
>
> You want to jump brown to yellow/red.
>
> When my current fuel accumulator finally ages out, will probably make
> this change permanent...
>
> Bill Robertson



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:02:45 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Another update on my tuneup, not going good.

Well, I announced yesterday that after doing a tune up twice (or at least
dismantling it twice) I was able to get the car running again.  Even though
I had a small vacuum leak, I was proud of being able to finally get it
running again.  I took it to work today, and it ran fine except for it had
hardly any power below 3,000 rpms, but still ran relatively smooth.  When I
took it to lunch, the idle was extremely low, and I found the wires on the
connector at the idle speed motor were damaged.  I could hold it straight up
and it would smooth out, but when I let it go it would nearly die.  I drove
off anyway, but when I got to a stop the car died from the RPM drop and then
wouldn't restart at all.  I cranked on it for a few minutes and it finally
stumbled to life.  I carefully drove it home (I was a half mile away) and
never let off the gas.

The wires on the connector don't look severed, but obviously are damaged
enough to not get a good connection.  They are worn right before the go into
the connector.  What would be the best way of fixing this?  I can see how
this would cause the car to die at a stop occasionally, but would it keep it
from restarting?

What would cause my loss of power at low RPMs?  I had a vacuum leak at the
intake plenum, but it is temporarily patched with silicone and I don't hear
it hissing anymore.  Is this a fuel problem?  All of the injectors are
perfectly clean at the tips, and of course I have a new Bosch distributor
cap, rotor, plugs, and wires which were purchased from a DeLorean parts
vendor so I know they are for the right application.  It never had this loss
of power before I attempted all of this.  It would always pick up smoothly
from any RPMs.

Thanks for all your help again!

payne





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 20:27:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Engine Transplants?

On Fri, 11 Oct 2002, Dan wrote:

> Just was curious what other engines out there have been/can be or 
> might be able to be squeezed into a DeLorean, with or without stock 
> trannys combinations?

My favorite topic :}

Engines that have been used successfully include the Cadillac Northstar
V8, various GM V6s, the Rover V8, Mazda wankel engines (2 and 3 rotor),
and probably some others.  There's enough room for just about any V6, but
most V8s and inline engines are a tight fit because of the engine
compartment is short and wide.  Not all are troublesome; the Northstars
fit great.  If the Northstar engine bay were a little more cluttered, it
would look like the factory did it. :}

The stock 5-speed is strong enough for 250-300 ft.lbs of torque or maybe a
little more if you are gentle, but has tall gearing.  High revving engines
like the wankels or Northstar might benefit from shorter gearing.

In any case it is possible to adapt a Porsche transmission.  The G50
series used in the 911 has been fitted successfully.  Supposedly the CV
joints are the same, although you have to adapt the mounts and shift
linkage.

> - New PRVs?
> - Eagle?

Not really worth doing IMO.  I think it is better to turbocharge the stock
PRV.  The venerable Island turbo kit can make about 180HP, and I think a
well-done turbo kit with modern technology could reach 250+HP in reliable
street trim.  The DMC Houston engine upgrade also gets about 180HP out of
the stock engine without turbos.




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 22:43:07 -0000
From: "Mr_Woop_Ass" <sephiroth_at_dml_merriman.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean for sale MARYLAND

Hi Guys, 

My name is Raymond, I live in Glen Burnie Maryland and I'm nineteen 
years old. I have been reading the list for some time now, and I was 
waiting for someone to make a comment on this one DeLorean...

I heard about this DeLorean from a friend of mine who knows I go gaga 
over them. Watching bttf brings tears to my eyes most of the time. 
lol. So anyway, I went to see the car for my birthday because I 
figured the best thing in the world for me right now is to see a 
DeLorean. When I saw it I felt so sorry for it, I caressed it like it 
were an injured animal, wiped away some of the dust off of the 
panels... People think I'm weird when I talk about this DeLorean.
I'm 
sure you guys understand how I feel about this car. (You guys are 
probably the only ones that won't think I'm a weirdo because I
like 
the car so much.)

I went and spoke to the owner of the car back about two weeks ago and 
he had said that he paid 4300 or 4700 for the car... It has a missing 
passenger side door lock. The hood latch is broken he said. It's 
suffering from 'droopy' door syndrome. He says that the car 
is "mechanically sound" after replacing the fuel lines. Hmmmm. I 
thought this guy was nuts when he said he wanted to sell it for 50+ 
grand. He had mentioned to me that some lady from a DeLorean club in 
Severna park (where's this club? I've never heard of it) had 
auctioned off a painted DeLorean for like 70 grand or some other 
insane price (maybe it was for a charity?). That's probably why he 
has that idea pressed in his head. The guy seems to be a nice guy and 
all; I just think he's misinformed. He was in awe when I told him 
about delorean.com and that you can pretty much get any part for the 
car from there and other sites.

Anyway, those are my 2 cents dudes. Probably not very informative, I 
just thought I'd like to express my story on this one DeLorean.

Have a Great one!


Raymond Torres
VIN# sometimeinlife
One day closer to Living The Dream

ps

Any owners in Anne Arundel County or close to Anne Arundel? I'd love 
to meet some of you guys and possibly get to know the car more in 
real life than just reading and reading and reading and collecting 
pictures. I've only seen three DeLorean's in my life. Two of which I 
was old enough to remember. One of them was for sale on Ritchie 
highway in Glen Burnie about a year ago. If you want to see it you 
can go here http://www.mrwoopass.com/DeLorean/Index.htm and check it 
out. Please excuse my domain name if it bothers anyone.
My email is mrwoopass_at_dml_delorean.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Found this in Severna Park Maryland this morning at Benfield Citgo 
gas station 8699 Veterans HWY, Millersville MD 21108. 410-987-0922
> 
> VIN SCEDT26XBD003527
> September 1981
> 9,180 miles
> Black Leather 
> 5-speed
> Originally purchased in 1981, Northern Virginia.
> Asking price $50,000.00
> 
> Sales man said "I'm receiving offers above $70,000 for this 
DeLorean"
> I asked "where the car was purchased from?"
> 
> His answer "used car auction for pennies."
> 
> Based on my experience with these cars, the car is in rough 
condition.




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 02:13:24 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Interesting story!

So today I had a guy come to the house to measure my kitchen out for 
a new counter top. As he was taking measurements he turned to me and 
asked "Is that a Delorean under that car cover?" when I told him yes 
I asked him how he could tell and he said that that's the only car 
with a toll booth window (the imprint of the window was showing 
through the cover) and he's seen his friends a hundred times. He 
then proceeds to tell me that his friend was crazy because he bought 
it from the American Express catalog back in the 80's. I stopped 
dead in my tracks and asked him "was is it gold?" and he 
said "Yeah...it was gold plated and it had a tan interior in it...he 
paid like $80,000 for it!" According to him his friend bought the 
car, had it delivered to him and had never driven it....has 0 miles 
on it. The guy used to lived in Wantagh Long Island, NY and had long 
since moved to CA. I was bummed because I wanted to go see it. Any 
way...that's my close encounter to seeing a Gold Delorean in 
person....almost :(.

Steve




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 23:28:59 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: coolant leak under water pump

Kevin, It can spray up if the hose didn't fit correct.
John


<< I seem to be leaking some coolant under/behind the water pump.
 I've checked the hose-clamps (even removing the Y or M air intake to get
 access) , and they all seem to be ok.
 
 The pump was replaced in February. Any suggestions?
 
 #4687
  >>



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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 00:14:56 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: coolant leak under water pump

Kevin, I put two images on the web site at the bottom of the engine page as 
to the water leak.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< I seem to be leaking some coolant under/behind the water pump.
 I've checked the hose-clamps (even removing the Y or M air intake to get
 access) , and they all seem to be ok.
 
 The pump was replaced in February. Any suggestions?
 
 #4687
  >>



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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 05:08:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Another update on my tuneup, not going good.

Oh dear -- is it time to post your physical address so someone can pay
you a visit?

Car will not run without idle speed motor *OR* throttle bypass screws
built into upper air assembly *OR* cracking the throttle plates. The
choice is yours. I've experimented with all three and found idle speed
motor preferable (although I did relocate the motor away from spark
plug 4).

If/when you get your idle speed motor working, make sure you've got a
decent connection on the hose that feeds the motor from upper air
assembly. Is tricky. My previous owner had kinked so badly that a
combination of motor and bypass screws was necessary. One advantage of
relocating the motor is I now thread about 18 inches of 3/4" hose to
the barb under the upper air assembly -- much easier than that little
formed elbow.

For now, you may just want to isolate the idle speed motor and set
with the bypass screws. Remember to cap off *BOTH* the barb under the
upper air assembly and the cold start tube. Guarantee car won't run
otherwise (world's largest vacuum leak). Screw closest to air sensor
plate lets air into bypass circuit. Middle screw is driver side
intake. Farthest screw is passenger side intake. Of course you want
driver's and passenger's set the same (they're called "balancing" screws).

Advantage of idle speed motor is it can automatically adjust for all
sorts of engine loads. If you set manually you may need to set high
for automatic transmission, A/C compressor, etc.

I'll bet contacts on top of the idle speed motor would accept the tiny
sized quick connects, if you wanted to jetison your damaged plug. John
Hervey claims to stock all sorts of "European" plugs. Ask Darryl
Tinnerstet what he's got (www.delorean-parts.com).

Re: jumping relays -- don't ask me where my head was last night (or
was it Wednesday, can't remember). #106 is the Lambda relay. #109 is
the fuel pump relay. I remembered looking at that when I was trying to
decipher my replacement block (I have no Lambda system) and just ran
with it. Sorry. Yellow/Red is the trigger wire FROM the fuel pump
relay, not a line to it. Jumping it at the Lambda relay wouldn't
accomplish a thing. Fuel pump relay is located under the metal plate
behind relay banks (last one, losest to engine). Jump Brown to
White/Purple and you'll be in business. I kind of lost interest in the
fuel pump relay after I got my new accumulator so I'm a bit rusty
(never even located in car until tonight. When tinkering last summer I
just jumped under the hood). Sorry.

Nice to know I'm the only one reading my own posts.

Oh, relay sockets accept standard large size quick connects (male). Do
yourself a favor and use large gauge wire. I keep a couple of jumpers
in the car at all times (got me home when I melted my headlight dash
switch). "Underside" of fuel pump relay socket is actually accessible
(relay is sideways) so you could just use a piece of wire from
"below." Try it and you'll hear the pump spin -- a very different
sound from the idle speed motor, which I think people sometimes
confuse when tinkering in the engine compartment.

Re: missing gaskets on your U pipes -- you can cut replacements from
cardboard (like a cereal box). Or you could apply a THIN layer of
silicone to the mating surfaces (rather than gumming up from outside).
You didn't loose the O rings where pipes meet throttle plates did you?

Post may be too long for Dave already, so I'll shut up & go to bed.

Bill Robertson
#5939 (purring like a contented kitten)

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Well, I announced yesterday that after doing a tune up twice (or at
least
> dismantling it twice) I was able to get the car running again.  Even
though
> I had a small vacuum leak, I was proud of being able to finally get it
> running again.  I took it to work today, and it ran fine except for
it had
> hardly any power below 3,000 rpms, but still ran relatively smooth.
 When I
> took it to lunch, the idle was extremely low, and I found the wires
on the
> connector at the idle speed motor were damaged.  ...



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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 05:18:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Correction: Fuel pump relay

Was tired last night -- grabbed wrong end of stick & ran with it.
Apologies. #106 is Lambda relay, not fuel pump. Must've remembered
that location on wiring diagram from when I was deciphering my
emissionless replacement block. Never actually jumped inside the car
(when tinkering before I got my new accumulator I always jumped under
the hood). Yellow/Red is trigger FROM fuel pump relay (#109). Jumping
it won't accomplish a thing.

Sorry.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 05:56:56 -0000
From: "Dan" <copper_trace_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Transplants?

I don't own a DeLorean, yet.. but might be working on them soon.

I work at a automotive performance parts fabrication shop where we 
specialize in forced induction packages, custom exhaust/intake work, 
suspension work and other performance odds and ends.

I'm going to be getting together with a well-known local DMC owner 
and going over some possibilities in terms of a twin-turbo 
intercooled kit, custom exhaust for both turbo applications and the 
stock application, and possibly some suspension parts, and make a 
revised fuel sender that will allow you to use the more widely 
available GM/Ford (Walbro type), among other "stuff" :)

I should have a better idea as to what we're going to make, if 
anything by the end of next week.




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 07:05:42 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: No Heat :hot water valve?

I looked again and cannot see this valve anywhere. I even climbed on 
top of the engine so i could see down behind it and I cannot find 
this valve anywhere. I think that a previous owner may have removed 
the valve and bypassed the heater core... 

Adam


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> it is located in the front right of the engine compartment, kinda 
under
> the frequency valve.  This is not your problem, most likely, as it 
is
> normally OPEN, letting water through, and needs a vacuum in order to
> close it.  This only happens at MAX AC.  I've never heard of a valve
> being stuck closed.  More likely is the hot/cold dial and the cable 
that
> opens and closes a flap to the heater core.  
> 
> Jim
> 1537
> 
> On Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:07:19 -0000 "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> writes:
> > My car hasnt had heat since I bought it. I looked for the hot 
water 
> > valve but could not find it anywhere in the engine compartment. 
> > Where 
> > is this valve usually located?
> > 
> > Adam




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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 00:25:41 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Engine Transplants?

I am working out a twin turbo kit to put out 300+ horse but still in the
early stages but system cost i am hoping to be under $5000

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: William T Wilson [mailto:fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org]
Sent: October 11, 2002 5:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Transplants?


.....

Not really worth doing IMO.  I think it is better to turbocharge the stock
PRV.  The venerable Island turbo kit can make about 180HP, and I think a
well-done turbo kit with modern technology could reach 250+HP in reliable
street trim.  The DMC Houston engine upgrade also gets about 180HP out of
the stock engine without turbos.




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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 10:41:03 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean for sale MARYLAND

Raymond,
Hi Mike in Columbia, MD....A fellow LIst member, Mike Pack, knows this car 
too...I live in Columbia and My car is in very nice shape and would proably 
fetch $15k if I ever sold it...I can tell you to be patient and don't let 
uniformed sellers convince you of outlandish claims. Ther are many Deloreans 
for sale all over the country...Just look at the DML. There is not really a 
Severna Park club but there was a Maryland group that kind of faded because 
of an aging owner base and general disinterest. Mike Pack headed this club 
and tried to keep the club alive. He is a great resource when buying a D.

Feel free to ask me any questions
Mike C
2109
billsfanmd(at)aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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