From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1265
Date: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 6:44 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: annoying misfire
From: Richard Lew <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: JZD
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

3. Re: painting louver??
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

4. RE: JZD
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

5. Re: annoying misfire
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. RE: painting louver??
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net

7. Re: Torsion bar removal and fitting
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Red-glowing cat!
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>

9. Re: "Wreckless" Delorean
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: refabricate tosion bars
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

11. Re: Wiring diagram
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Engine top corrosion
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Torsion bar removal and fitting
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: annoying misfire
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Re: Red-glowing cat!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: refabricate tosion bars
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Red-glowing cat!
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Red-glowing cat!
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

19. Re: Re: monster garage
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

20. Re: Re: Wiring diagram
From: "Trevor Johnson" <dmcboy1der_at_dml_hotpop.com>

21. Re: Red-glowing cat!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

22. Re: Red-glowing cat!
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com

23. Non Starting problem
From: "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 04:44:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Richard Lew <evm2k_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: annoying misfire

James:

I did a full tune up on my car and found one of the
new spark wires arcing just underneath the fuel
distributor.  The way I found it was the use of a
mirror to look from the back to the distributor and
saw the arcing. It took me about 2 weeks of searching
and replacing parts before I stumbled onto that.

Richard





--- jamesrguk <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I am still having an annoying misfire, I am pretty
> sure it down to an 
> injector that is passed it's sell by date, as it is
> not spraying very 
> nicely. 
> 
> To my knowledge the spray pattern on a mechanical
> injection system is 
> more crucial than on an EFI system because the
> valves are not always 
> open at the point of injection.
> 
> I am fairly sure the misfire is fuel related for the
> following 
> reasons:
> 
> 1) My timing light suggests that all plugs are
> sparking
> 2) All plugs are less then 8 months old. 
> 3) 2 of the injectors are new, 4 are 2nd user but
> appeared to be 
> clean and ok when 1st installed approx. 10 months
> ago, and the engine 
> has run fine until recently.
> 4) All of my HT leads are new as well as the cap and
> rotor arm.
> 
> Anyway my question is really why are the injectors
> getting blocked?, 
> have I just been unlucky?
> I have a new fuel pump, clean tank, and a filter on
> the fuel pickup 
> and had the main fuel filter change about 10 months
> ago.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> James RG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 13:10:04 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Re: JZD

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> 
> List,
> 
>     I was visiting the Lamington Farm estate last year with my old 
1981 DMC. 
> I was given a nice tour of the grounds and the house. When I was 
there John 
> DeLoreans dogs, Alfredo & Lucy were abandoned there. Where they 
still there?
>     In addition, the grounds manager let me go thru some of the 
DeLorean 
> memorabilia & tax records that were left there in the basement of 
the house. 
> Did you have an opportunity to see them?
> 
> Best Wishes,
> Michael Pack
> Annapolis Maryland

Mike,

We were pressed for time when we visited during the Fall Foliage 
Tour, the property had been sold a week before to Donald Trump and 
the house was closed to us except for what we could see through the 
windows.  We did meet Alfredo who is being cared for by one of the 
tenants living on the property.  After our photo sessions, we were 
off to Princeton.

Brent Lundgren
VIN #17006





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 14:03:27 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: painting louver??

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hi,
>     I am going to bring my louver into a body shop to have it 
painted this 
> week.  What type of paint should I have them paint it with? <edit> 
At Memphis I saw a louver with a 
> lightly textured paint that really looked nice.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave
> 6286-

Hi Dave.

I was at Memphis, and have a painted louver.  On the chance that mine 
was the painted louver you're referring to, here's the recipe.
My louver and bumpers(on the partially restored DeLorean, the only 
one on a trailer at Memphis, for your reference) were painted with 
black Dupont Imron, with their standard gloss reducer added to get 
what they refer to as 25% gloss reduction.  I describe this texture 
as "controlled fine orange peel"  Usually orange peel comes out less 
uniform, is not readily induced intentionally, and is considered a 
defect, but it actually ended up looking pretty good on my louver and 
bumpers, I think.  Anyway, if you liked that look, that's how I got 
it.  
The good points:  This paint is far superior to most other paints, 
and sticks like glue.  This paint doesn't develop the white oxides 
over time that some matte black paints like chassis paint or bumper 
paint do.  
The bad points:  It seems to me you can't really get a matte finish 
with this paint.  If you're aiming for a factory original look or 
other "flat" look, this paint isn't for you.  

Rick Gendreau 11472








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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:45:48 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: JZD

Mike,

The dogs were still there this past visit with an attractive young lady living on the grounds taking care of them.

Right after the property was sold the first time, some of the local owners were asked to display our cars for a charity party at the house.  At that time, Ed (the caretaker) allowed us to freely walk about the house and poke around.  We also saw the boxes of papers in the basement along with some personal items that were left in the house.  I seem to remember a school project map signed by Zachary DeLorean that I think some of the others got a good photo of.

On this visit, we did not get to go inside of the house.  I do not know if the papers and personal items have been removed.

Sorry you missed the tour Mike, it was fun.

Marc


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com [mailto:Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 1:30 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] JZD
> 
> 
> 
> List,
> 
>     I was visiting the Lamington Farm estate last year with 
> my old 1981 DMC. 
> I was given a nice tour of the grounds and the house. When I 
> was there John 
> DeLoreans dogs, Alfredo & Lucy were abandoned there. Where 
> they still there?
>     In addition, the grounds manager let me go thru some of 
> the DeLorean 
> memorabilia & tax records that were left there in the 
> basement of the house. 
> Did you have an opportunity to see them?
> 
> Best Wishes,
> Michael Pack
> Annapolis Maryland
> 



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 15:07:32 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: annoying misfire

If the engine is not running smoothly there are 2 major reasons for 
it. There could be a breakdown of the secondary ignition system ie, a 
bad spark plug (worn, badly gapped, leaking, cracked) or a bad 
ignition wire. If it is breaking down in the well you can't see it. If 
the wires are old or look crummy or are hard just replace them. 
 The other main area IS the fuel injectors. To do them properly you 
must remove ALL of them and put them on a Fuel Injector Tester. With 
this piece of equipment you can clean them, inspect the spray pattern 
and verify opening and holding pressure. I suggest you also replace 
the injector seals and the copper sealing gaskets.
 Of course all of this is assuming the engine is mechanically healthy 
meaning you did a compression check and all of the cylinders are 
within 10% (5% is even better) and that there are no vacuum leaks. A 
local Volvo dealer should be able to check your fuel injectors or you 
can send them to a Delorean vender. This is something you cannot do at 
home without the injector tester. What you can do at home is to remove 
all of the injectors from the engine, place them in cups, disable the 
ignition system and crank the engine for about 10 seconds. Compare the 
amount of fuel in each cup. If it is different disconnect the 
injectors from the hoses and try again. If it is still different the 
fuel distributer may be the problem. One of the ports going to a fuel 
injector could be damaged or plugged up. Check the numbers on the 
side of the fuel injectors, it is critical that they are all matched.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I am still having an annoying misfire, I am pretty sure it down to 
an 
> injector that is passed it's sell by date, as it is not spraying 
very 
> nicely. 
> 
> To my knowledge the spray pattern on a mechanical injection system 
is 
> more crucial than on an EFI system because the valves are not always 
> open at the point of injection.
> 
> I am fairly sure the misfire is fuel related for the following 
> reasons:
> 
> 1) My timing light suggests that all plugs are sparking
> 2) All plugs are less then 8 months old. 
> 3) 2 of the injectors are new, 4 are 2nd user but appeared to be 
> clean and ok when 1st installed approx. 10 months ago, and the 
engine 
> has run fine until recently.
> 4) All of my HT leads are new as well as the cap and rotor arm.
> 
> Anyway my question is really why are the injectors getting blocked?, 
> have I just been unlucky?
> I have a new fuel pump, clean tank, and a filter on the fuel pickup 
> and had the main fuel filter change about 10 months ago.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> James RG




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 10:08:14 -0500
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net
Subject: RE: painting louver??

If anyone is interested my son is a auto body painter.  He can match anything (two years at a technical college and now is head painter at an auto body repair shop)  He painted my car (it was painted when I bought it) a chamelion type paint changes color when light hits it a diffrent angles.  He painted my louvers a gloss black, very easy to keep clean.  Any parts that need tobe painted he can do it.

Jim Sawyer
vin 4149 "Camile" (previously know as ELMO) 
Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Hi,
>    I am going to bring my louver into a body shop to have it painted this 
>week.  What type of paint should I have them paint it with?  I have to use 5 
>bottles of tire shine just to keep it black right now;)  I have found that 
>most bumper paints just begin to fade after a few seasons of use.  Has anyone 
>used a paint that really works great?  At Memphis I saw a louver with a 
>lightly textured paint that really looked nice.
>
>Thanks
>
>Dave
>6286-
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>
>


-- 
Jim Sawyer
DeLorean Vin #4149


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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 15:47:02 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar removal and fitting

To relieve the torsion on the door torsion bar you need to set up the 
entire rig as if you are doing an adjustment. This means you need the 
wooden support block, an allen socket, an extension bar, and a breaker 
bar and door prop. You will also have to have a small ratchet and 
socket to remove the anchoring bracket. In removing the torque you 
must keep in mind when you set up to have enough of a "bite" so as to 
have room to release all of the torque. It requires approximatly a 90 
degree swing in the direction away from the torque. The anchoring 
bracket MUST be removed to release all of the torque or you will 
damage the rear window.
 To reinstall again you need a "bite" that will give you about 90 
degress motion to put all of the torque back in. You may need more or 
less but I would start with less and add more as needed so as not to 
overstress the torsion bar. Before tightening the torsion bar don't 
forget to place the anchoring bracket over the allen socket. This is a 
2 man job so get a willing assistant who will follow directions. Don't 
try it alone as if anything goes wrong you can't hold the torque 
forever! You could have a lot of trouble trying to start the bolts 
into the anchoring bracket with 1 hand. Sometimes these bolts have the 
threads munched up and you may have to replace them and retap the 
holes in the car. For the door prop do not use a stick from the ground 
to the door. If the car should move it would slip out. Instead go from 
the door sill to the bottom of the open door. When removing the 
torsion bar take care not to srcatch it when sliding it out.
This is not a job for the "faint of heart" as it is one of the more 
dangerous procedures you can do on a Delorean. The torsion bars store 
A LOT of energy. Make sure all of your tools are in perfect working 
order and you are well prepared for all contigencies. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> OK so heres a question
> 
> If I need to remove a torsion bar from a car what is the easiest way 
to do
> so i.e. relieve the tension.
> 
> And then what is the process to refit i.e. how much turning does the 
bar
> need once in place.
> 
> The more detail the better
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Paul
> #6463
> 
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.salsbury/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 17:39:01 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
Subject: Red-glowing cat!

Today I drove my last trip in my DeLorean (this year, that is!)
I'm putting it away for winter storage.

However, when I parked up, having taken the car to the carwash and back to my garage and with normal engine temperatures, driven for around 15 minutes, I discovered that the cat was glowing red! This *might* have been a very close fire, but I'm puzzled to what to look for? Why did the cat act like this? I have never experienced this before...let me also at that it sputtered when I drove it, but I think that's mainly bad spark plugs and/or condensation because of the winter climate we have here right now.

Still - why did the cat glow red...I'm sure it was a couple of hundred degrees down there in the engine bay :-(

Any suggestions welcome

Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 16:55:07 -0000
From: "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: "Wreckless" Delorean

Odd, thought this was mentioned numerous times, oh well. Either way, 
i had a video clip of the game promo if anyone wants to download it.

http://headbangdude.dynu.com/88mph/video/reckless.mpg

Jeff Chabotte
-Norwich, CT

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> I have checked the archives and found nothing, so thought I would 
> post to say has anyone noticed the "super-car" in the XBox game 
> wreckless.  It would appear to be modeled on a DeLorean (Cross 
> between Delorean,BTTF Delorean and possibly the Firestar 500 front) 
> It even has gullwing doors.  You get the car after completing the 
> first mission as police using the taxi (at least thats how I got it)
> 
> It looks pretty cool
> 
> Just though someone may be interested.
> 
> Paul
> (Willinot)




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 15:58:36 -0500
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Re: refabricate tosion bars

John,

If I recall correctly, when this was brought up on the list awhile back, I thought the price being put forth per owner was going to be closer to $100.  Now I am seeing $350 and up.  Did I read something incorrectly?  Personally, I would still be willing to put up something closer to $100 to reserve a bar, and would even personally dedicate time to mailing list members and asking them to support the project if necessary.  Unlike others here I DON'T see it as a frivilous thing--if your bar does God forbid go out, what on earth are you going to do then?  The car basically become undrivable, and you will have to hunt for weeks or even longer to find a replacement part.  I think shelling out a little bit now for a NEW torsion bar would more than pay for the hassal that would occur if you didn't have one.  

So I don't see why people are complaining about this type of request.  After all, it's not like there are dozens of DeLoreans out there just waiting to be parted out.  How often do we hear about an actual parts car on this list?  And does the owner of that car have the time to disassemble every part and send it to you?  Again, I think it just makes more sense to have such an important and rare part around if you need it.  So why not push forward with it?

Let me know, John!  I would be more than willing to dedicate my own time here.  Maybe we could get that price down if we find enough people to put up the money.

Richard      



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 22:08:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring diagram

Hopefully John Hervey won't mind (they ARE on his website)...

Two nice JPG's:

http://www.specialtauto.com/images/wiringdiag2.jpg
http://www.specialtauto.com/images/wiringlegend.jpg

You'll need a picture viewer to zoom in.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Classified" <vegascop1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> I need the full version, full size wiring diagram for the D. Please 
> let me know where I can buy one or pay to get it re-printed in full 
> size, more than happy to pay for your troubles.
> 
> thnx,
> 
> Ski VIN 4649




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:31:03 -0800 (PST)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine top corrosion


My new DeLorean will be arriving soon and I plan to do some  serious engine examination soon after its arrival.I have read a couple of sites which detail a problem where dirt accumulating in the recesses on top of the motor catches moisture and corrodes through.Which allows dirt to enter and destroy the engine.If I discover this problem on mine what is the best way you guys have found to combat this?Is it possible to fill these recesses with something to prevent dirt from getting in or add some kind of dust cover?Would a cover over this area cause engine heat build up troubles?I dont know much about the prv 6 so all info is appreciated.
thanks
john fredt
vin 17**



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HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 22:06:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar removal and fitting

See message #27527 and following thread.

Can we assume you've found a used torsion bar? (still on the doner
vehicle?) If so, congrats on quick solution. 

I stand by my assertion this is not a project for the novice (yes, I
saw the recent Sun Star post -- laugh laugh). Retainer bracket for
example: if accidentally allowed to rotate it WILL contact the rear
window and T panel with simultaneously disasterous results. People who
do this regularly know several tricks to revive distorted splines,
etc. You've already discovered how heavy a door is (has anyone ever
tried this and forgotten to support the door?). If at all possible, I
recommend services of an experienced T bar adjuster (hey, it's a two
person job anyway).

I watched Dave Swingle closely and understood everything he did to
mine. If you've no choice but to do it yourself, contact me direct and
I'll explain the procedure as I saw it: brobertson(AT)carolina.net.

Good luck.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> OK so heres a question
> 
> If I need to remove a torsion bar from a car what is the easiest way
to do
> so i.e. relieve the tension.
> 
> And then what is the process to refit i.e. how much turning does the bar
> need once in place.
> 
> The more detail the better
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Paul
> #6463
> 
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.salsbury/
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 00:11:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: annoying misfire

You didn't mention iginition timing... 

Pull at least one spark plug -- it's the only way to tell what's going
on inside your engine. Plugs could be fouled with soot -- retarded
timing (leaking vacuum advance?), too rich fuel mixture, or a weak
coil. Could be burned white -- too lean fuel. Could be fouled with oil
-- bad news (engine is sick). Could be gapped incorrectly (.026"?
Don't have factory book at hand). 

Since they're easy to get to (move your idle speed motor out of the
way for #4), why not pull all 6 to compare. While they're out of the
car, run a resistance check on each. I prefer as low as possible (6-8
ohms).

In the bad old days, 99% of a car's problems were electrical (a slight
exaggeration I know, but more common than fuel supply).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I am still having an annoying misfire, I am pretty sure it down to an 
> injector that is passed it's sell by date, as it is not spraying very 
> nicely. 
> 
> To my knowledge the spray pattern on a mechanical injection system is 
> more crucial than on an EFI system because the valves are not always 
> open at the point of injection.
> 
> I am fairly sure the misfire is fuel related for the following 
> reasons:
> 
> 1) My timing light suggests that all plugs are sparking
> 2) All plugs are less then 8 months old. 
> 3) 2 of the injectors are new, 4 are 2nd user but appeared to be 
> clean and ok when 1st installed approx. 10 months ago, and the engine 
> has run fine until recently.
> 4) All of my HT leads are new as well as the cap and rotor arm.
> 
> Anyway my question is really why are the injectors getting blocked?, 
> have I just been unlucky?
> I have a new fuel pump, clean tank, and a filter on the fuel pickup 
> and had the main fuel filter change about 10 months ago.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> James RG




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 00:34:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Red-glowing cat!

Old rule of thumb: "fuel cools." A rich mixture burns cooler than a
lean mixture.

Not too long ago I sucked crap into my fuel system (suspect it was a
piece of my deteriorated fuel pump boot). Stopped me up but good.
Literally limped back to the house with a cherry red exhaust system.
Eventually the obstruction made it as far as the accumulator -- hummed
like blowing across the lip of a coke bottle. Obviously my little
engine was starved for fuel (killed it once in transit). I replaced
EVERYTHING in the tank, filter, and blew out the system, but converter
continued to glow. Gutted converter, now car is happy again. Didn't
see anything obviously melted in the honeycomb, but it was pure white
without a speck of soot. 

Check your fuel tank pickup screens. You may discover one quadrant
torn or missing altogether. If so, you may have sucked crap into the
system.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Today I drove my last trip in my DeLorean (this year, that is!)
> I'm putting it away for winter storage.
> 
> However, when I parked up, having taken the car to the carwash and
back to my garage and with normal engine temperatures, driven for
around 15 minutes, I discovered that the cat was glowing red! This
*might* have been a very close fire, but I'm puzzled to what to look
for? Why did the cat act like this? I have never experienced this
before...let me also at that it sputtered when I drove it, but I think
that's mainly bad spark plugs and/or condensation because of the
winter climate we have here right now.
> 
> Still - why did the cat glow red...I'm sure it was a couple of
hundred degrees down there in the engine bay :-(
> 
> Any suggestions welcome
> 
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
> 
> VIN # 06759
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 16:34:13 -0800 (PST)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: refabricate tosion bars

 ( Moderators comment:  Unless there's something new about torsion bars I'm 
killing this subject. )

I would contribute 100 dollars for the refabricate fund but there is no way im gonna bet 350 on it.I dont imagine there are many places that make these sort of things and it will take alot of cash to convince them to make these new bars.Not to mention we would have to pay for holding up the manufacturing of whatever else they make with the equipment.When was the last time you saw a factory with a cryogenics section just waiting for something to do?



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 16:42:50 -0800 (PST)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Red-glowing cat!


 
Check to see if some wise guy stuffed something into your exhaust that could have restricted the flow and caused the heat build up.I would think that such a severe exhaust gas problem would stall the car but maybe not.Maybe the inside of the cat has come apart.Thats my best guess I really dont know
 



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 18:53:16 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Red-glowing cat!

A red glowing Catalytic converter is a very dangerous condition.  It was 
more than a few hundred degrees.  It was closer to 1200 degrees, way 
above the autoignition temperature for oil or gasoline.


This condition is caused most of the time by excessive fuel.  It is 
rarely caused by blockage.  On the other hand, excessive fuel can cause 
the ceramic to fail and block the convert.er.


1.  Find the reason for excessive fuel.

2, Replace the converter.

BOB




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 19:21:38 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: monster garage


Click here 
<http://www.tvguide.com/ads/adserver/redirect.asp?ciid=6628&url=http%3A%2F%2Fadfarm%2Emediaplex%2Ecom%2Fad%2Fck%2F2447%2D9140%2D3725%2D1> 


TV Listings Results [ Click Here ] 
<http://www.tvguide.com/listings/search/Search.asp?I=62212&Zip=60521> to 
try another search
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:05:23 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time)
From: "Trevor Johnson" <dmcboy1der_at_dml_hotpop.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Wiring diagram

The full size wiring diagrams are sold by the DeLorean Store. WWW
Deloreanstore.com They are poster sized, and come with the separate legend.
They are not expensive, and are very nicely enlarged. 

 

Trevor Johnson

AIM- Veedub Zephyr

 

-------Original Message-------

 

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

Date: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 4:04:40 PM

To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

Subject: [DML] Re: Wiring diagram

 

Hopefully John Hervey won't mind (they ARE on his website)...



Two nice JPG's:



http://www.specialtauto.com/images/wiringdiag2.jpg

http://www.specialtauto.com/images/wiringlegend.jpg



You'll need a picture viewer to zoom in.



Bill Robertson

#5939



>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Classified" <vegascop1_at_dml_y...> wrote:

> Hi,

> 

> I need the full version, full size wiring diagram for the D. Please 

> let me know where I can buy one or pay to get it re-printed in full 

> size, more than happy to pay for your troubles.

> 

> thnx,

> 

> Ski VIN 4649







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. 

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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 03:57:24 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Red-glowing cat!

You said the magic word: "wash"! Don't worry, you've just got a bit of water 
down in the sparkplug wells. Water creates electrical path, so the spark is 
weak because most of the charge never reaches the plug, thus fuel is not 
completely burned, and the Catalytic Converter overheats due to eating up 
the raw hydrocarbons.

To fix, just pull the boots, and blow out the water with some compressed air, or 
a straw. Just in case too, a hair dryer never hurts either. Daub a bit of that 
spark plug conductive goop on, and replace the boots back onto the plugs. 
But make sure that the boots themselves seat fully onto wells. If not, water 
gets in, and will cause this exact problem. And of course, this is also why you 
want to use wires meant for the PRV block. They're designed to keep water 
out by having those boots installed. In anycase, all of this is in the archives of 
anyone would like more details.

One thing I don't know about though is if you'll have to replace the cat. I don't 
don't know just how much "damage" it can take. If not melted, it could just 
simply get clogged. I've seen gas additives in the store that claim to clean out 
cats of excess deposites, but I'm still scratching my head as to just how in the 
world they work.... In any case, if you're concerned about it, perhaps it's time to 
check up on local regulations, and see about replacing that cat w/a straight 
pipe anyways...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Today I drove my last trip in my DeLorean (this year, that is!)
> I'm putting it away for winter storage.
> 
> However, when I parked up, having taken the car to the carwash and back 
to my garage and with normal engine temperatures, driven for around 15 
minutes, I discovered that the cat was glowing red! This *might* have been a 
very close fire, but I'm puzzled to what to look for? Why did the cat act like 
this? I have never experienced this before...let me also at that it sputtered 
when I drove it, but I think that's mainly bad spark plugs and/or condensation 
because of the winter climate we have here right now.
> 
> Still - why did the cat glow red...I'm sure it was a couple of hundred degrees 
down there in the engine bay :-(
> 
> Any suggestions welcome
> 
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
> 
> VIN # 06759
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 22:43:36 -0600
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com
Subject: Re: Red-glowing cat!

Stian,
A glowing cat usually means a rich fuel mixure for one reason or another,
the fuel is getting burnt up inside the cat instead of inside of the engine
where it should be. It could also just simply be a plugged up cat.

I would get the engine compression checked, the last time this happened to
me it ended up being a valve job. :(

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Stian Birkeland <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Cc: DOC UK <doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 6:05 PM
Subject: [DML] Red-glowing cat!


>Today I drove my last trip in my DeLorean (this year, that is!)
>I'm putting it away for winter storage.
>
>However, when I parked up, having taken the car to the carwash and back to
my garage and with normal engine temperatures, driven for around 15 minutes,
I discovered that the cat was glowing red! This *might* have been a very
close fire, but I'm puzzled to what to look for? Why did the cat act like
this? I have never experienced this before...let me also at that it
sputtered when I drove it, but I think that's mainly bad spark plugs and/or
condensation because of the winter climate we have here right now.
>
>Still - why did the cat glow red...I'm sure it was a couple of hundred
degrees down there in the engine bay :-(
>
>Any suggestions welcome
>
>Stian Birkeland
>Norway
>
>VIN # 06759
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 05:03:42 -0000
From: "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Non Starting problem

When I recently aquired my D, I found a whole list of  things that
needed changed or replaced. I changed the plug wires, cap and rotor ,
found several split vacuum hoses, the O ring under the fuel
distributor was shot, the plugs were gapped at .040 and a lot of other
things that i suspect contributed to the rough idle. The two Idle
adjustment screws were opened up most of the way.

 Now that these things have been replaced/repaired. I can't get the
thing to stay running. When you turn the key, It fires up and as soon
as it settles down to idle it dies or if it does run, runs rough and
dies if you step on the throttle. 

It ran in spite of all the things that were wrong before, now it won't
run. Any Ideas???




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