From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1276
Date: Friday, November 15, 2002 6:53 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. news segment
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

2. Re: Rough idle
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

3. Re: Re: Rough idle
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

4. Re: Re: Rough idle
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

5. Re: Re: trouble starting in wet weather
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. new owner here
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Vandalism
From: "hmcelraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. fan wire jumper (was Re: Fan Fail)
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>

9. follow up to my hard start rough idle problems
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

10. DOC Site Update
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. How can I remove small dings in the SS?
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>

13. Re: Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

14. RE: Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

15. Gold Sunstar Model
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

16. Re: How can I remove small dings in the SS?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

17. Re: body bolts
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

18. binnacle recover in NJ
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. 1697
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

20. Re: binnacle recover in NJ
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: Re: How can I remove small dings in the SS?
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

22. Re: new owner here
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

23. tank sender questions and thanks!
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

25. RE: 1697
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 22:10:38 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: news segment

I've finally got a so-so edit of the news segment from our CBS affiliate the
other day.
It's about 50 meg, medium quality. The audio is a little off. I'm running
another render now to see if I got it closer usin' the old eyeballs/best
guess.

Anyway... since I wasn't sure where to put it, I put it out on kazaa; I'm
playing with the ad-free version. I don't recommend installing it if you
don't use it already (because of the ads and spyware). Will someone with
space grab it and put it out on the web or ftp?




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:00:00 -0600
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Rough idle

Make sure the electric plug  to the vacuum advance solenoid by the
distributor is plugged in. If it isn't the car will idle rough but run
normally at speed. It's easy to knock it off when working around that part
of the engine compartment.

Bruce Benson

> My car has developed a rough idle that has been most annoying.  It sits
> around 850 RPMs, and I know my idle speed motor is working.  When it's at
> this engine speed, it almost sounds like a distant helicopter.  By that
I'm
> assuming it's not firing correctly on one cylinder at idle.  It doesn't
feel
> like a completely dead cylinder, as when I'm driving it has all the power
it
> used to.  I can rev it up and the engine sounds very smooth and quiet.
> payne
>




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:08:16 -0800
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rough idle

Thank you!  You're helping me narrow it down.  I just replaced all of the
plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.  I have no valve noise and I think there was
some work done on them a few thousand miles before I bought the car.  The
car ran great before, but I shouldn't completely rule out timing.  I think I
fixed my vacuum leaks, but again, I shouldn't rule it out.  I'm thinking it
may be the injectors.  I'm sure after over 20 years they're likely to have
some sort of build up in them.  Although I don't exactly have money to spare
right now, my beloved DeLorean is worth it.  It certainly wouldn't hurt to
have them cleaned or replaced.

payne
devoted owner of #2975


> For a smooth idle you need to have all of the cylinders balanced very
> close to each other. That means compression, spark plug gap, valve
> adjustment, injectors, etc. After you are sure all of the mechanical
> parts are good then you can begin to attack the control systems. Rule
> out vacuum leaks, timming, bad ignition wires. On the injectors it is
> not so much a plugged up on as it is a dirty one. Dirt will cause a
> bad spray pattern and low holding pressure. They will have to be
> removed and tested to make sure they aren't the problem.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>






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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 16:09:11 -0800
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Rough idle


> "Distant helicopter"? Could one of your spark plugs have come loose
> from the head? Missing spark plug makes a "poop poop" noise.

I thought it may be a loose plug, but the problem goes away when I rev the
engine.  It only sounds like it's misfiring at idle.

> Weren't you idling _at_dml_ 1,400 a couple of days ago? How'd you get rpms
> back to normal?

My idle does drop after a while.  After lubricating the cable I can play
with the spring and it will return to idle.  It still sticks, but I'm making
progress.  I still physically have to get out and play with it before I shut
it off.  The high idle has been welcome after the vibrations of the normal
idle speed.  I'm going to go over everything people have suggested so far.
My next project is the injectors.  I'll let you know what I find on Monday
or Tuesday, as time allows.

payne
devoted owner of #2975







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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 18:53:06 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: trouble starting in wet weather

Be careful sealing the distributor cap. When condensation sets in there will 
be no way for it to evaporate out and you might be taking it on and off more 
often. Condensation may be forming if the cap is warm and the rain is cooler. 
Also, the pulse coil connections should be should be cleaned and covered with 
electrical grease. Are you sure it's the distributor cap. No water in the 
plug holes and the cover is on the ignition coil.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 
<< Subject Re trouble starting in wet weather
 
 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
 > My car has a lot of trouble starting after it has been parked in 
 the 
 > rain. It eventually starts and idles rough then chugs until I guess 
 > the moisture  is dissipated. I am assuming that moisture is getting 
 > into the distributer. When I do my tune-up, i plan to seal the 
 > distributer with high temp silicon sealant and prepare the inside 
 > with wire-dry and/or wd40. 
 > 
 > Could any of the things I plan to do to the distributer cause other 
 > problems??
 > 
 > thanks,
 > Adam
  >>



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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 01:01:39 -0000
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: new owner here

Just got my new (well, new to me) DeLorean this past weekend and will 
soon have a lot of questions! Right now my immediate question is 
about my fuel gauge. The needle is sticking straight up all the time. 
I filled it up and it only took a couple gallons, so I guess it is 
full now. Is this the gauge or the thing in the tank or ???

Sonny
VIN#3669




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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 03:14:58 -0000
From: "hmcelraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Vandalism

I was reading about the concern for being keyed. I haven't been seen 
that sort of damage but I have had two instances where the black 
center caps were removed from the wheels. A wheel was scratched on 
one attempt.

H McElraft 3354




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:48:42 -0600
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>
Subject: fan wire jumper (was Re: Fan Fail)

>  I would also replace the fan fail relay. A bypass is better but the
> Fanzilla is best. The bypass wire won't operate the fan fail light and
> it will eventually burn up.

This one strikes close to home, since I've had two wire jumpers burn up on
me since I bought my car in April 2001.  (see pictures in the Photos section
under "Burnt Fan Wire Jumper")  The first one melted a little within a few
months of ownership, and the other one burned up big time in late September
when I returned from the River City Autofest in Evansville.

Am I to understand that this is common?  If so, why are these jumpers
considered viable solutions to the original blue module?  What causes this
problem of burning up, and why don't the fuses seem to be doing their job?
And, most importantly, is this really as simple to fix as buying a Fanzilla?
Or is there an underlying problem with my car that will still be there no
matter what is plugged into the socket?

Not sure where to start on this one, so any help would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks,
__________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov '81)





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 01:39:14 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: follow up to my hard start rough idle problems

As some of you may recall I had problems with starting my car,
First I would turn the key it would not start immediately but would 
eventually start then die.
same on the second and third then run but rough and never really smooth out 
and if you came to a stop it would die or idle rough.

Well it was a combination of things.

1st my idle was a bit low. it was at 800 and while it was rough I couldn't 
figure it out because it would always die first.

OK 
First the cold start injector thermal switch on the water pump 
Replaced that and I could get it to fire up with the turn of the switch (Also 
had to clean the contacts in the injector and actually may not have needed 
the thermal switch to be changed but I did both. Contacts were real bad)

Now I start but it dies immediately and if I do get it to run its real rough.

So I replaced the wires, cap , rotor, plugs.

Big difference now it will start within three or four attempts, still rough 
at first but after about 1 minute it runs great but it is low on idle so I 
fix that and it is running great just hard to start.

So I finally replace the warm up regulator 

It purrs like it should and I just turn the key and it starts and stays 
running cold or hot.

Well Problems solved 

Thanks for all the input from you 16684 is Concours ready again.

All the parts are original OEM parts I might add.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 06:38:57 -0500
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: DOC Site Update

Hi All

Quite a few updates this time around: 

1) Pics from the NEC show last weekend including mine and Rich's "project
cars" a year on from when they first arrived in England. Also Chris
Parnham's BTTF car, with all mods done by Chris Nicholson in stainless
steel, and Mark Bourne's pristine right-hander.

2) More pics on the work I've been doing on my car, including showing the
Dynamat applied to the interior and the new 5" rear speakers in the
original clamps.

3) Pics from the Isle of Wight show this summer

4) A solitary pic of the engine out of #4426 on its way to be rebuilt (more
later)

Follow the links to News as usual at www.delorean.co.uk

Martin
#1458
#4426
DeLorean Owners Club UK Webmaster

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 06:40:49 -0500
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]

Hi All

Bit of a lengthy one this. Let me set the scene.

I've bought a new project car, VIN#4426 from Germany. It needs a new
engine. As you are aware, the PRV was used extensively over here by all
three manufacturers and a couple more besides.

By an extraordinary stroke of luck, I was put in touch with a guy by the
name of Darren Bowker who hails from Manchester. Not only is he a mad keen
Renault fanatic (and owns a concours Renault 30), but he has built several
PRV's from scratch before, and was more than happy to take on the work of
building me my new one. I even had the option of a performance version in
the 200-210hp range...

(some might ask "why not buy a new crate engine from Houston?", and the
simple answer is that it'll be far cheaper to have Darren build me one)

Anyway, at the NEC last weekend, I finally got to meet him, after numerous
e-mails and phone calls, and gave him the lump that had come out of #4426
(which came from a carbourettored Peugeot 504 circa late 70s, with a 2664cc
PRV). This engine had never run in the DeLorean and was merely a block and
heads by the time I got to it.

I had decided that I wanted a completely stock DMC engine, and this gave
Darren the task of establishing exactly what parts cross-reffed to what
version of the engine, and more importantly, how to set up the lambda and
idlespeed systems which are not used on the engines he has built before.
For interests's sake, you might like to know that the DMC PRV uses a
Renault sandwich plate and sump (although the Renault sump was not
aluminium and Darren was quite jealous about this) but uses Volvo pistons &
liners, crank, heads, cams, intake manifold and injection. The block is 99%
identical across all PRVs of this age.

One of my choices sometime ago was whether to stick with the DeLorean's
"over complicated" idlespeed system. My decision was based in part on the
archetypal "hunting" of a DeLorean engine when cold, and I told Darren
this. He thought I was being daft and that "there must be something wrong
with a lot of DMC engines then" until he heard Chris Parnham's 111-mile,
museum stored car doing it. We also worked though how to set up the
idlespeed system, and how the DeLorean manual tells you not to adjust the
setting screws - they're meant for the older Renault system (the later
R25's used the idlespeed system found in the DeLorean, but don't hunt
either according to Darren). This is the e-mail I got from him this
morning. It should make interesting reading:
-----
Went to see the font of all PRV injection knowledge yesterday, Steve
Whitehead and learnt all about setting up lambda K-jet. He also leant me
the manual that shows you how to do it. It appears that DMC didn't want
unskilled people messing with the settings but Renault had no proplems with
giving the dealers the info to set them up. To set the idle you clamp off
the pipe to the idle valve and set it with the brass screws as per engines
without idle system,ie remove and clean the screws,refit them and screw
them all the way in.Back off the two front ones 2 turns and the set the
idle with the back screw to 900 rpm. It is absolutely critical that the
control pressure is correct (3.4 bar) and that the pressure from the pump
is correct(4.8-5.2 bar). The only thing you can't do on the DMC is set the
co which should be 0.7-1.0 before the cat. The idle should not vary when
cold and the manual gives all the testing proceedures and values of
electrical sensors etc.

What was interesting was the crude manner in which the lambda system
operates! All it does is vary the fuel pressure in the lower chamber of the
metering head with an oscillating valve to weaken the mixture if the lambda
sensor senses the mixture is too rich. Simple. If yours runs better with
the lambda system on, then it is running too rich when the lambda is off
[#1458 stops hunting when the lambda system cuts in - Martin], so either
the control pressure is too low, the pump output pressure is too low or the
mixture is out of adjustment. A way to set the mixture screw with out a co
meter is to bridge the fuel pump relay with the engine off,pull out an
injector and put it into a container and put a washer (about 0.5mm-1.0 mm
thick)under the air plate stop to hold it in the same position as at idle
and turn the mixture screw untill the injector "cracks" which is the point
at which the injector starts to spray.Then set the idle and robert is your
fathers brother!
-----

I've already learnt to respect Darren's knowledge, so wanted to clarify the
"hunting" of the DeLorean engine - why does it do this when it apparently
shouldn't?

Martin
#1458
#4426



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mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 08:13:09 -0500
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: How can I remove small dings in the SS?

Since I didn't hear anything back last time, I am reposting.
It is possible to have small "shopping cart" size dings removed from the
SS by local vendors?  Has anyone ever had to perform this?  

Also does anyone have a Driver Side external Mirror for sale (before I
contact our DMC Vendors)?  A Deer ran off with mine.

Thx-
Jason Perkins
#16665



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:17:28 -0500
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]

Martin, Is it possible to shorten the loooong post, I know why and what makes the fuel system hunt or seek, but I can't pull out of the email what you want.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 11:40:14 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]

Why does the engine idle hunt?

Its done in the interest of clean emissions.

Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031
DML
DMC Forum
RDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk [mailto:webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk]
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 5:41 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]


Hi All

Bit of a lengthy one this. Let me set the scene.

I've bought a new project car, VIN#4426 from Germany. It needs a new
engine. As you are aware, the PRV was used extensively over here by all
three manufacturers and a couple more besides.

By an extraordinary stroke of luck, I was put in touch with a guy by the
name of Darren Bowker who hails from Manchester. Not only is he a mad keen
Renault fanatic (and owns a concours Renault 30), but he has built several
PRV's from scratch before, and was more than happy to take on the work of
building me my new one. I even had the option of a performance version in
the 200-210hp range...

(some might ask "why not buy a new crate engine from Houston?", and the
simple answer is that it'll be far cheaper to have Darren build me one)

Anyway, at the NEC last weekend, I finally got to meet him, after numerous
e-mails and phone calls, and gave him the lump that had come out of #4426
(which came from a carbourettored Peugeot 504 circa late 70s, with a 2664cc
PRV). This engine had never run in the DeLorean and was merely a block and
heads by the time I got to it.

I had decided that I wanted a completely stock DMC engine, and this gave
Darren the task of establishing exactly what parts cross-reffed to what
version of the engine, and more importantly, how to set up the lambda and
idlespeed systems which are not used on the engines he has built before.
For interests's sake, you might like to know that the DMC PRV uses a
Renault sandwich plate and sump (although the Renault sump was not
aluminium and Darren was quite jealous about this) but uses Volvo pistons &
liners, crank, heads, cams, intake manifold and injection. The block is 99%
identical across all PRVs of this age.

One of my choices sometime ago was whether to stick with the DeLorean's
"over complicated" idlespeed system. My decision was based in part on the
archetypal "hunting" of a DeLorean engine when cold, and I told Darren
this. He thought I was being daft and that "there must be something wrong
with a lot of DMC engines then" until he heard Chris Parnham's 111-mile,
museum stored car doing it. We also worked though how to set up the
idlespeed system, and how the DeLorean manual tells you not to adjust the
setting screws - they're meant for the older Renault system (the later
R25's used the idlespeed system found in the DeLorean, but don't hunt
either according to Darren). This is the e-mail I got from him this
morning. It should make interesting reading:
-----
Went to see the font of all PRV injection knowledge yesterday, Steve
Whitehead and learnt all about setting up lambda K-jet. He also leant me
the manual that shows you how to do it. It appears that DMC didn't want
unskilled people messing with the settings but Renault had no proplems with
giving the dealers the info to set them up. To set the idle you clamp off
the pipe to the idle valve and set it with the brass screws as per engines
without idle system,ie remove and clean the screws,refit them and screw
them all the way in.Back off the two front ones 2 turns and the set the
idle with the back screw to 900 rpm. It is absolutely critical that the
control pressure is correct (3.4 bar) and that the pressure from the pump
is correct(4.8-5.2 bar). The only thing you can't do on the DMC is set the
co which should be 0.7-1.0 before the cat. The idle should not vary when
cold and the manual gives all the testing proceedures and values of
electrical sensors etc.

What was interesting was the crude manner in which the lambda system
operates! All it does is vary the fuel pressure in the lower chamber of the
metering head with an oscillating valve to weaken the mixture if the lambda
sensor senses the mixture is too rich. Simple. If yours runs better with
the lambda system on, then it is running too rich when the lambda is off
[#1458 stops hunting when the lambda system cuts in - Martin], so either
the control pressure is too low, the pump output pressure is too low or the
mixture is out of adjustment. A way to set the mixture screw with out a co
meter is to bridge the fuel pump relay with the engine off,pull out an
injector and put it into a container and put a washer (about 0.5mm-1.0 mm
thick)under the air plate stop to hold it in the same position as at idle
and turn the mixture screw untill the injector "cracks" which is the point
at which the injector starts to spray.Then set the idle and robert is your
fathers brother!
-----

I've already learnt to respect Darren's knowledge, so wanted to clarify the
"hunting" of the DeLorean engine - why does it do this when it apparently
shouldn't?

Martin
#1458
#4426



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:45:05 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Gold Sunstar Model

Just received word from Sunstar that the gold models are due to arrive in
the states on December 1.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey
NOTE OUR NEW ADDRESS/PHONE NUMBERS
DeLorean Motor Company
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396

281/441-2537 Voice
281/441-2813 Fax
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:39:07 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: How can I remove small dings in the SS?

Jason - I have had a couple of very small dings removed from a rear 
quarter panel using a local Dent Wizards franchise.  The result was 
perfect as far as I am concerned.  The dings were incurred during a 
Father's Day car show inside a shopping mall.  A gaggle of little kids 
came pouring out of a J.C.Penney store, and swarmed the car, knocking 
one of the stanchions over into the fender.  The only requirement for 
Dent Wizard is that they need access to the back side in the area of 
the dent.  This means that the inner door panels would need to be 
removed for dings in the doors themselves, and you may have to remove 
a fender if it is dented, and the underbody is blocking access to the 
back side.  Your local technician can give input on what is possible.  
BTW - I am not associated with any companies that perform this service 
- simply a satisfied customer.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Since I didn't hear anything back last time, I am reposting.
> It is possible to have small "shopping cart" size dings removed from 
>the SS by local vendors?  Has anyone ever had to perform this?  





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:47:11 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: body bolts

Mark - For attachment of the SS body panels, strength really isn't the 
major consideration.  These aren't structural panels by any means.  I 
would use a decent grade stainless bolt (316 CRES or 304 CRES) because 
the main problem that I have seen with these bolts is that they get 
rusted in place, and get broken or stripped during removal.  Remember 
to use anti-seize / anti-corrosion compound when installing any bolts.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> what type of bolts are people using to hold the SS body panels to 
the car? i am asking for a friend that is restoring his delorean. 
somebody told him that stainless bolts were not strong enough.
> 





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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 19:59:45 -0000
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: binnacle recover in NJ

I have been reading many posts concerning recovering of the 
binnacle.  I am in the same situation . . My dash is in great shape 
but the binnacle is fading and warped and cracking.  It makes the car 
look beat up on the inside.  I called a couple of shops in my area 
but when I ask, they respond to me like I was crazy.  I am wondering 
if anyone has had this done and lives in Northern NJ (morris County) 
and could recommend a shop.  I am also looking for a shop to re-dye 
my seats as well.

Thanks
Chris




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:11:45 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: 1697

I'm close to settling with the insurance company. I should be done 
with the whole situation by early next week.
My only decision remains is whether I keep the car.

Is there anyone out there who would be willing to buy the whole 
thing? see pics _at_dml_ www.rock-n-horse.com/1697

Make an offer QUICK if you want her.

Or if I get enough requests for parts I'll keep her.
Anyone interested in specific parts email me with and offer and I'll 
let you know if that part is still in good condition. In general 
consider; I won't take too much less than half of what Grady or DMCH 
would charge. And I need a full downpayment w/ shipping, look at my 
history on the list if you have trouble trusting me.
If you buy the whole car you can make a small Downpayment and 
finalize it when you come get the car or before I ship her out.
I'll sell the whole car for $4,000 OrBestOffer, but HURRY!

thank you all, I wish I had the time and resources to part her out 
fully myself.... but I need to get this all over with!

James LaLonde 1697




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:20:58 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: binnacle recover in NJ

Chris,
I often have the same questions. I will see on the DML that somebody 
has the same repair I want done and wonder how they found the right 
location. What I do is email the person who posted that they had the 
repair (binnacle covered) done and see where they had it done. The 
cost of mailing a binnacle (or any part) is worth it knowing its 
going to a reputable shop. If you have a business relationship with 
Rob Grady I would call debbie and see where they send their 
upholstery business to....hope this helps.

Mike C
2109 




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:00:00 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: How can I remove small dings in the SS?

Toby,
You say that a franchise like Dent Wizards can be successful with stainless, 
but they need access to the back side of the panel to do it. My front hood 
has 2 small dings in it. Whats the best way to seperate the front hood skin 
from the structural fiberglass it's bonded to.
Thanks,
Jim 6147



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:03:16 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: new owner here

In a message dated 11/15/02 10:35:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

<< is this the gauge or the thing in the tank or ??? >>
Probably the guage thing in the tank :-). It's an easy replacement. I just 
installed the reproduction unit from Delorean Motor Comp[any in Texas. 
$129.00. I'm very satisfied.
Jim 
6147



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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:26:52 -0000
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: tank sender questions and thanks!

WOW! I'm impressed with the level of response from members of this 
group. I had a half-dozen or so replies in my inbox about my dilemma 
with the fuel gauge pointing straight up. I removed the sender from 
the tank tonight (thanks to Mr Epsey for talking me through it on the 
phone today) and have determined that it is original and does look 
like crap. It appears that the float no longer floats and is stuck in 
position.

So I guess it is tank sender time, huh? I searched the back issues 
and saw many references to Tankzilla and a $300 price, but their 
website says $150? I tried to call tonight but was too late and they 
had left already, I guess. Did the price really come down by 50% 
recently or did I mis-read something? Is there something different in 
it or with it now that it costs $150 less?

Thanks again. Everyone I work with told me I was nuts to buy this car 
and that I would never be able to get parts for it. Already they are 
impressed, too!

Sonny
#3669




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:29:20 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Setting Fuelling - Why does the DMC PRV Hunt? [long]

The R25 system does not hunt, yet has the same idlespeed system.

The Renault manual for setting up a lambda-equipped system with idlespeed system like the D's describes setting the screws, and should result in a smooth idle.

Bottom line: The engine should NOT hunt when set up properly. Quote:

It appears that DMC didn't want
unskilled people messing with the settings but Renault had no proplems with
giving the dealers the info to set them up. To set the idle you clamp off
the pipe to the idle valve and set it with the brass screws as per engines
without idle system,ie remove and clean the screws,refit them and screw
them all the way in.Back off the two front ones 2 turns and the set the
idle with the back screw to 900 rpm.

Martin

dherv10_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Martin, Is it possible to shorten the loooong post, I know why and what makes the fuel system hunt or seek, but I can't pull out of the email what you want.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:00:41 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: 1697

I just want to chime in here and say that this breaks my heart. I can barely
stand to look at it because I would be pretty tore up if my car ended up
this way. 

However, looking at the extent of the damage I find it amazing that you were
not injured. The crumple zones seemed to send the force of the crash to
every part of the car except the cockpit. I guess JZD was on to something
there.



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