From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1285
Date: Sunday, November 24, 2002 6:34 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: License Plate suggestions
From: "Mike Aninger" <>

2. Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm
From: "hmcelraft" <>

3. (unknown)
From: "jberam1" <>

4. Dallas Mechs
From: "camracerx" <>

5. Re: Delorean Financing (other options)
From: "d_rex_2002" <>

6. New tank sender thoughts
From: Sonny V <>

7. ATTN: James LaLonde -- another D parting out on eBay
From: "content22207" <>

8. Dealer/Sales Brouchures Wanted

9. Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

10. Steering Rack Question/Info
From: Stephen Jarvis <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 00:44:56 -0500
From: "Mike Aninger" <>
Subject: Re: License Plate suggestions

I thought for quite a while about this one.  What I came up with felt to be
quite unique.  Do you have a place around you that makes custom plate
frames?  You ever heard of the phrase  "Spread Your Wings and Fly!"?  How
about a little play on that.

 spread your
   and fly!

GULWNGS is the plate and the rest could be on the frame.  Catchy,
enthusiastic, it isn't spelled perfectly (which is good in my book), and no
BTTF reference!

-Mike A.


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:07:57 -0000
From: "hmcelraft" <>
Subject: Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm


If it ran fine before the control pressure regulator change I would 
suspect that there is a vacuum line messed up. The routing of the 
lines is tricky and easy to mess up so check the routing. Also, be 
sure to check the condition of the lines and be sure the one way 
delay valve at the regulator is installed the correct direction.

Harold McElraft


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:15:25 -0000
From: "jberam1" <>
Subject: (unknown)

I keep my DeLorean stored for most of the year (I'm away at college) 
and it's always a pain to reconnect and then disconnect the battery 
each time I want to use the car. I was planning on getting a cheap 
jackknife battery cut-off switch when I came across the Battery 
Buddy (the website is Basically it's a 
product that you connect to the battery's hot terminal and it keeps 
an eye on how much power is still running through it. When the power 
drops past a certain point, it cuts the circuit. It comes with a 
remote for resetting the circuit, or you can do it from the unit 
itself. You can also set the product to "off," which cuts the power 
to the battery manually. (This is a description of the Battery Buddy 
III; they have other models with fewer features.)

I haven't ordered the thing yet (I've seen it priced at $55-$70, 
which doesn't seem too high to me), as I'm not yet sure if it will 
fit in the DeLorean's battery compartment (the Battery Buddy 
measures 1-5/8" x 2-1/8" x 2-1/8"). I was wondering if anyone has 
tried this product yet, and with what degree of success. (And 
hopefully, if the product pans out, new DeLorean owners with battery 
troubles won't have to go though any of the headaches I've gone 

What do you guys think?


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 21:31:22 -0000
From: "camracerx" <>
Subject: Dallas Mechs

Where do folks in Dallas, Texas prefer to go for DeLorean repairs and 

I am buying my first D, after years of lusting.

Would like to have someone give it the once over and perform any 
lacking recall upgrades and such.



Message: 5
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 23:31:41 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <>
Subject: Re: Delorean Financing (other options)

Jeff and other potential Delorean buyers,

"Smaller scale" Delorean financing is available to potential buyers
that are "better than half way there" but do not have all the funds
available to get their Delorean "now" and pay off the balance over
a small period of time (such as a year or less).

I have sold several of my refurbished Deloreans "on payments" to 
buyers that could put 2/3 down and pay the rest off within a year.
These cars usually need detail work, such as fascia repainting, 
interior restoration, etc. that a new owner could do while waiting
to pay off the car and get the title upon final payment.  In at
least one case, with a long term project car, I was able to extend
the payments to nearly two years, since the new owner is doing a
complete restoration and the car will not be roadworthy before it
is paid off and the new owner gets the title.  This may be an option
for you or other potential new Delorean owners.

Currently, I have no long term project cars available, but I will
have an '81 5-speed refurbished car that I will be posting to the 
DMCNEWS For Sale web page by January or February if a local club
member does not buy it first.  I may also have an '81 automatic to
post by late winter or early spring, depending upon my free time.
So keep an eye on those For Sale ads, there is still some hope yet.

Hope this may help a potential new Delorean owner.

Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jeff" <Gr8old1_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Like many others who saw a glimmer of hope for getting our own D.
> snip <


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:24:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Sonny V <>
Subject: New tank sender thoughts

Hey all -

Got my new tank sender this past Wednesday from DMC in Texas. Warren said it would arrive on Wednesday and he was right! I didn't have time to install it until today, but it was quite easy to do and came with illustrated instructions.

The tank sender is metal, unlike the original plastic one that I took out. It has the same kind of three terminal plug like the original one, though, so it just plugs right in. It also comes with a new thicker seal to replace the original one. When I first turned the key on after installing it, the low fuel light came on and it read about 1/16 of a tank on the gauge. I went to the gas station, filled up with 11.4 gallons. The manual says the car has a 13.2 gallon tank, which would have meant that I had about 1.8 gallons left in the tank. So far so good.

I will keep the list posted on my experience with the unit.



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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 04:49:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: ATTN: James LaLonde -- another D parting out on eBay

Another D is currently being parted out on Ebay. Will eventually get
down to pontoon (with perhaps a frame attached?). If you're truly
serious about restoring 1697, would probably be path of lesser
resistance. Didn't want to say anything before, but these little
silver cars seem to be one step below unibodies after a collision --
no telling how force of impact affected entire body structure (you
already see what it did to driver's rear). I'm sure frame is OK (is
more massive than my Lincolns!).  I'm just concerned about everything
bolted to it.

Other thought: rustle yourself up a pitiful fixer upper. The more
pitiful, the better (translated: cheaper). All you need is intact
fiberglass (and a hood & fender). Two people could probably lift off
and transfer to your frame, which conveniently includes the engine &
driveline already bolted up!. Really isn't much to the interior -- you
could transfer yourself over a couple of weekends.
BTW: you didn't mention windshield damage -- did it survive intact?

Keep us posted,

Bill Robertson


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 00:04:32 EST
Subject: Dealer/Sales Brouchures Wanted

Hey there gang,     
    I am looking to complete my DeLorean collection and I need to following 
items.  If you have any you would like to sell, please email me at 
                1.) Small Dealer Brouchure
                2.)  Tri-fold Brouchure
                3.)  The Prototype DMC postcard of the DMC in front of a 
building(its on Tamir's site)
                4.)  Any other dealer material
Many thanks!


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 05:17:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm

Hard to say what it is exactly. It could be fuel or ignition. I would 
pick ignition to start. The first area to suspect is the ignition 
wires, spark plugs, coil, cap and rotor. If all of these check out 
make sure the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance are operating. 
A stuck mechanical advance would cause this exact problem. If it isn't 
electrical it could be fuel delivery. A dirty fuel filter, kinked 
pickup hose in the tank, bad or incorrect fuel pump are among the 
first things to check. One bad tank of gas can fill the fuel filter up 
with enough dirt to plug it up. After removing the filter you could 
cut it open to see how dirty it is. Another thing to check the the 
throttle linkage. Make sure it opens all the way when you step all the 
way down on the pedal. Have someone sit in the car with the motor off 
and step on the pedal while you watch the linkage on the throttle 
spool. It should hit the micro at WOT (Wide Open Throtttle) and when 
released it should hit the idle micro.
David Teitelbaum
vin 19757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Scott, Now that that has been replaced. I would be sure the 02 
adjustment is 
> now correct. In other words, get the car hot and readjust. Be sure 
the spark 
> advance/timing is ok. If this doesn't do it, then you many need to 
look at 
> the injectors. Clean or new makes a big difference. 
> << My car has no power beyond 4000 rpm.
>  It was having hard start problems.  A new warm-up regulator solved 
>  problem.
>  Now it won't  run past 4000 rpm while driving.
>  Last spring, I did a major tune-up and it ran fine.  My fuel
>  pump/suction line/strainer are fine.  I have a new accumulator and 
>  filter installed.  Also the injectors were replaced last spring.
>  What should I do next?  I can't remember if this is a 
characteristic of
>  a failing coil.  The car has about 27K on it.
>  What do you think?
>    >>


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 22:39:31 -0700
From: Stephen Jarvis <>
Subject: Steering Rack Question/Info

I am in the process of replacing a torn steering rack boot on the driver's side.

According to the manual and descriptions by DML members,the rack should be
removed, stood upright with driver's side up, and .3 pints of SAE-EP 90
added to the unit before replacing the boot.  Interestingly, a very
reputable local shop here in Denver that specializes in rebuilding racks
says that they pack vitually all their manual racks with grease. 

Is the Delorean fluid-filled manual rack unusual? Is there an advantage to
one over the other?  

I also discovered the driver's side rack boot to be identical to that of a
Fiat Strada. The rack boot from the Fiat 128 had been mentioned on one of
the cross-reference lists as a replacement, but I found it to be shorter and
did not have the additional small bellow on the end (hence the difference in



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