From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1293
Date: Monday, December 02, 2002 8:18 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Sticky Doors
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: TAB report
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

3. Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

4. Questions about Deloreans/Prospective New Owner
From: Twilightcall_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. DeLorean Car Show Payments
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

8. vacuum hose diagram
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

9. Re: Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. RE: clutch kits
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 04:49:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sticky Doors

To open a stuck door sometimes if you pull hard on the handle while 
someone else pulls hard on the door to open it you might get lucky. If 
you aren't lucky then you have to remove the trim on the inside and 
move the link going to the front latch while someone pulls the door 
open. One of the biggest reasons that doors don't work right is that 
the anchor pins are not adjusted properly. They should not hit the 
doors or the guides and should go right into the center of the latch. 
When they don't you force things. When you finally do get the door 
open first adjust the latch pins and then go over all of the linkage 
adjustments as outlined in the Workshop Manual. By forcing things you 
bend or stretch the rods in the door out of adjustment. These are not 
easy things to do so it is best if you can find someone who has done 
this before to help. To fix the driver's door all it might take is 
again adjusting the anchor (latch) pins. The door latches actually 
have 2 locking positions. It is very important that both latches 
(front and rear) on each door both lock in the second latch position. 
If 1 latch is in the first position and the other is in the second 
position you can't lock the doors and they get jammed. If you force 
the lock then you knock the locking mechanism out of adjustment. If 
you have trouble locking and unlocking the doors it is because you 
are not getting both front and rear latches into the same position. If 
they are both in the first position you generally know because the 
door will shake because it isn't closed all the way against the seals. 
If only 1 latch is in the second position it is harder to tell as the 
door will seem to closed all the way except the door won't lock if it 
is adjusted correctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Heather" <yachtgirl_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I'm having problems with the doors on my Delorean.  The front end of 
> the door on the passenger side seems to be stuck and will not open. 

> Right now the passenger door will not open at all and I don't know 
> how to open it.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> Heather




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 06:04:01 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: TAB report

Kevin - I have seen that wear on the large flat washers on most of 
the cars that I have done the TAB change on.  I typically clean the 
washers thoroughly, and flip them over just like you did, to give a 
new surface for the spacers (sleeves thru the trailing arm and the 
bushing) to rest against.  I mentioned in one of my endless posts on 
the subject of TAB's that I believe the wear comes from the bolts 
bending and stretching, allowing some movement in the joint.  This 
most often leads (eventually) to the bolts bending and/or coming 
loose.  I plan on disassembling these joints on Winged1 around the 
first of the year to see if there has been any similar wear with my 
bolts installed.  I don't expect to see any, but I will let the List 
know in any event.  I looked into supplying new large flat washers 
with the TOBY-TAB kits, but I would have had to increase the price 
of the kits substantially in order to do it.  It's amazing how much 
hardened flat washers cost!  I would have liked to include the 
washers, as well as new bushings, but the dollars simply got in the 
way.  There is a price point above which you can't convince people 
to spend the money, no matter how much sense it would make.   Now, 
if I would have been able to offer polyurethane ...

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> However: my big fat washers on the pass. side were a bit messed up.
 I flipped them all around and put them back in. I wish the TAB's came with new washers so that I could have saved them out and taken pictures. 




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 16:54:48 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help

Well friends, 1697 is now safely and legally in the hands of Erik 
and Fred Geerdink. Whether they let her live in parts alone and help 
other DeLoreans, or restore her to her former glory - she's in good 
hands (albeit injured hands - Erik)

So I'm deep into fixing up 4009. She was GREAT GREAT GREAT cosmetic 
condition. She has a custom exhuast, cd player, and alarm I wasn't 
aware of until I saw her first. But I've never been one for 
originality - she has ground effects for heavens sakes!

But I'm replacing most of the fuel system now, And giving her a tune 
up. While I have intake manifold off I'm going to replace the water 
pump and hoses around there (the rest look ok). And do some 
detailing/cleaning up. 
I just used some intake man. cleaner on the fuel distrib. and both 
halves of throttle body/plate/air meter thingy. and on the air horn 
and intake manifold itself.

I have a few bits of advice to ask of the member who have done such 
things before:
1. How can I better clean the inside of the intake manifold.
2. How can clean the head without getting all that 
dirt/creatures/anti-freeze in the intake ports.
3. How can I clean the valves/valve stems (they are NASTY) without 
all that crap going down further into the ports/cylinders - or will 
it hurt the engine THAT much to have all the crap go into the ports 
(obviously some of the valves are closed-- but the ones that are 
open would get a nasty dose of black nasty stuff)

4. On the other side of the car - I just fueled up the tank... 
(stupid me) and now I need it empty to clean it out. I can work 
inside the tank fine with the gas there (replacing baffle/hoses with 
Herv's new metal baffle)... but it is filled with disintegrated hose 
bits, and rusty residue stuff. How the hell can drain the tank 
efficently without removing it (not really D specific - just looking 
for ideas).

As ever, I'd appreciate any advice you veterans (not that all the 
DML are veterans :P) have!
-James LaLonde 4009 (new vin sign off...)




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 12:37:02 EST
From: Twilightcall_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Questions about Deloreans/Prospective New Owner

Hello, I am looking at purchasing a Delorean.  I have a few questions about 
them.  How difficult are they to work on?  What are some of the major issues 
and what does the engine have to come out for?  I am used to working on my 
own cars.  I repair/maintain my Lotus Esprit and my Ferrari 308.  Both have 
Bosch K-Jetronic FI systems.  I have heard that the engine is basically a 
Euro Volvo engine but then I have heard that it was a Peugeot engine that was 
used in Volvos?  Which does it closely resemble?  I know that it is a joint 
effort of Volvo, Renault, and Peugeot but I have heard that the engine is 
more like one of them.  I noticed that it is on timing chains.  Is this an 
interference engine?  If the heads needed to be done would the engine have to 
come out or is there enough room to remove the chains and heads in the car?  
How would many of you rate the reliabiliity of them?  Thanks for all of the 
info and please feel free to add any additional comments that may be useful.  
Thanks Again, GREG



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 14:45:11 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help

James,

i recommend taking the intake manifold to a machine shop.  they can glassbead 
it, soak it in a chemical bath to remove the carbon, bake it, then paint it 
for you any way you like. maybe even polish it.  it will look like new.  for 
the rest of the outside appearance, a simple high quality steam clean will do 
wonders once you get the car running again.

Andy

In a message dated 12/1/02 11:10:02 AM Central Standard Time, 
deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com writes:


> 1. How can I better clean the inside of the intake manifold.
> 2. How can clean the head without getting all that 
> dirt/creatures/anti-freeze in the intake ports.


Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 15:02:12 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Payments

Well we have been getting a lot of response from Europe and how to pay for 
the magazine.

It appears that we will probably have to break down and get visa/MC so we 
will begin the paperwork on that.

It will NOT be available for this first issue but hopefully in a few months 
we can get it up and running and we will use it for the show.

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 15:08:34 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help

James, See below.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
  
  I just used some intake man. cleaner on the fuel distrib. ( Be careful on 
fuel cleaner on the fuel distributor or inside it. There are o rings that 
could swell and it would have to be rebuilt.) 

Throttle body/plate/air meter thingy. and on the air horn and intake manifold 
itself.
 ( Naturally the best way its to take it off and clean it out with any strong 
cleaner. I use Berrymans B12. You can also use Acetone. Be careful, it's 
highly flammable.)
 
 I have a few bits of advice to ask of the member who have done such 
 things before:
 1. How can I better clean the inside of the intake manifold.( See above)
 
2. How can clean the head without getting all that 
 dirt/creatures/anti-freeze in the intake ports. 
( Wet Vac vacuum Cleaner, industrial grade and block off the ports with a rag 
or something like that.. Clean and vacuum at the same time)

 3. How can I clean the valves/valve stems (they are NASTY) without 
 all that crap going down further into the ports/cylinders - or will 
 it hurt the engine THAT much to have all the crap go into the ports 
 (obviously some of the valves are closed-- but the ones that are 
 open would get a nasty dose of black nasty stuff) 
( Without taking the heads off, I use a product called Resilone that will 
desolve the black stuff after a while. )
 
 4. On the other side of the car - I just fueled up the tank... 
 (stupid me) and now I need it empty to clean it out. I can work 
 inside the tank fine with the gas there (replacing baffle/hoses with 
 Herv's new metal baffle)... but it is filled with disintegrated hose 
 bits, and rusty residue stuff. How the hell can drain the tank 
 efficently without removing it (not really D specific - just looking 
 for ideas).
I just finished a car that was sitting for about 3 years and needless to say 
it wasn't to bad. Get the gas out of the tank by siphon it and clean up the 
tanks before you put in the new parts or the pick up filter will clog up 
faster. I usually take everything out of the tank and clean it out with a rag 
with cleaner on it. You may want to work with nitril gloves and in a well 
ventilated area.
Call if I can help.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

 
 As ever, I'd appreciate any advice you veterans (not that all the 
 DML are veterans :P) have!
 -James LaLonde 4009 (new vin sign off...)
  >>



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 20:45:28 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: vacuum hose diagram

One last thing;
I'd like to replace my vacuum hoses (and some obviously have come 
loose in removing the intake manifold) and I can't find the vaccum 
hose diagram.
I know it's online somewhere... but I've searched and searched.

does anyone have a copy they can email me, or direct me to the URL


thanks again!!!!

James  4009




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 05:15:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Cleaning and fuel tank restoration help

Brake cleaner works well if you don't have a parts cleaner you can 
clean it in. Another great way to clean parts is to spread them out on 
the driveway and use oven cleaner and a water hose. It will really 
brighten up the aluminum. Gunk is always good too but it costs more 
then oven cleaner. When you have the engine open the best thing to do 
to keep dirt and parts from falling inside is to use bits of paper 
towels or rags. When you are ready to reassemble just don't forget to 
remove all of it. You can also use a shop vac to get anything that may 
have fallen in. A small amount of dirt won't hurt anything as long as 
it isn't metallic like a washer or bolt. To clean inside the valve 
cover just wipe it out best you can and when you reassemble the engine 
put some "engine flush" into the oil. Go to the auto store and they 
should sell something like this just tell the guy behind the counter 
what you are doing. You run the motor for a while and then change the 
oil anf filter. To get the old gas out just use a piece of hose and 
siphon it out, the hose won't plug up if it is large enough. You might 
have to jack up the car to get enough height. What you can't get that 
way you can bail with a cup and rags. Good luck with your "new car".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Well friends, 1697 is now safely and legally in the hands of Erik 
> and Fred Geerdink. Whether they let her live in parts alone and help 
> other DeLoreans, or restore her to her former glory - she's in good 
> hands (albeit injured hands - Erik)
> 
> So I'm deep into fixing up 4009. She was GREAT GREAT GREAT cosmetic 
> condition. She has a custom exhuast, cd player, and alarm I wasn't 
> aware of until I saw her first. But I've never been one for 
> originality - she has ground effects for heavens sakes!
> 
> But I'm replacing most of the fuel system now, And giving her a tune 
> up. While I have intake manifold off I'm going to replace the water 
> pump and hoses around there (the rest look ok). And do some 
> detailing/cleaning up. 
> I just used some intake man. cleaner on the fuel distrib. and both 
> halves of throttle body/plate/air meter thingy. and on the air horn 
> and intake manifold itself.
> 
> I have a few bits of advice to ask of the member who have done such 
> things before:
> 1. How can I better clean the inside of the intake manifold.
> 2. How can clean the head without getting all that 
> dirt/creatures/anti-freeze in the intake ports.
> 3. How can I clean the valves/valve stems (they are NASTY) without 
> all that crap going down further into the ports/cylinders - or will 
> it hurt the engine THAT much to have all the crap go into the ports 
> (obviously some of the valves are closed-- but the ones that are 
> open would get a nasty dose of black nasty stuff)
> 
> 4. On the other side of the car - I just fueled up the tank... 
> (stupid me) and now I need it empty to clean it out. I can work 
> inside the tank fine with the gas there (replacing baffle/hoses with 
> Herv's new metal baffle)... but it is filled with disintegrated hose 
> bits, and rusty residue stuff. How the hell can drain the tank 
> efficently without removing it (not really D specific - just looking 
> for ideas).
> 
> As ever, I'd appreciate any advice you veterans (not that all the 
> DML are veterans :P) have!
> -James LaLonde 4009 (new vin sign off...)




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 21:05:48 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: RE: clutch kits

just to correct my e-mail is darkstarmedia(AT)attbi.com  sorry.

-----Original Message-----
From: Darkstar [mailto:darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com]
Sent: November 29, 2002 11:57 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] clutch kits



I may have an opportunity to get clutch kit for a very cheap cost, they are
new units factory style (not centerforce) and include TO bearing, clutch
cover, clutch disc, pilot bearing, and alignment tool (standard kit).  the
price of these to those that want them will be under $150 and that may
possibly include shipping to those in the lower 48.  Please contact me
OFF-LIST at darsktarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com and remove the [DML] tag in the subject
line so it doesn't get sorted.  the availability will be after x-mas cause I
am getting one for myself to test on my Delorean first to be sure they fit
right.  I will take pictures.
Please let me know if you are interested and I will send out another e-mail
for commitment after x-mas.

Darkstar



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