From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1308
Date: Monday, December 16, 2002 5:27 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Intermittent electrical stuff
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

2. Re: Need your opinions on this D
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

3. Re: Need your opinions on this D
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

4. muffler brackets and bushing installation
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Door problems too
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. RE: Gold Cars
From: "doastore <doastore_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <doastore_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. hard starting when wet continued....
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Door problems too
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Delorean Calendar
From: "gullwingmagazine <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>

10. Opinions of Value
From: "media1524 <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

11. Re: Opinions of Value
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: hard starting when wet continued....
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

13. Re: Delorean Calendar
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Door problems too
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 17:45:13 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Intermittent electrical stuff

Correction: I meant to say "window switch" in this reference here.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...>" 
<DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> More than likely it is dirty connections. Fiddling with the mirror 
> switch by moving it over time probably rubbed the oxidation off of 
> the internal contacts.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 18:25:53 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Need your opinions on this D

Save for the air box removed, the open window, and far worse sun 
damage, my car was in pretty much the same condition before it got 
back on the road. To hell with money, what this car honestly needs is 
someone with a strong enough passion to restore it. The interior 
looks fairly decent, as does the rest of the car. The chassis rust 
issue may of course be a problem. And the same rust may be the 
culprit  on the clutch system (never heard of rust seizing 
master/slave cylinders, but it could be possible). But you would 
still need to replace these things anyway.

With just the pics I've seen, it is FAR from being a parts car, and 
almost as far to become somthing in "showroom condition". The best 
solution for this vehicle would be customization. Leather is nice, 
but if you live in an extreme climate, or you plan on driving hard, 
having the seats redone in a high quality cloth can really make the 
car more cozy in the cold, and cooler in the heat. And of course you 
won't slide around on cloth, and it's easier to care for. If you want 
a better sound system, it's easier to cut the console, or install 
custom speakers. Same with drilling louvers to install a 3rd brake 
light, or drilling in the trunk to install a CD changer. Ditto on any 
other *improvements* or accessories that you would want to consider.

The downside of course is that the start-up costs will not be cheap. 
New fuel system, clutch system, tires, brakes, A/C, etc... Figure in 
about $5-8K to get the car back into a solid, roadworthy condition. 
Once it's mechanicly sound, you'll end up with the equivalent of a 
blank canvas.

But if a custom car is not what you desire, you don't feel like 
putting this much work into your first restoration, if money will 
become a problem, or if worst of all you won't have the determination 
to finish, then walk away from this car, and look for another. A good 
driver that needs little maintenance/restoration can be had for about 
$14-16K. And they will usually require far less initial debts after 
their purchase.

Figure $6-8.5K for the car, same for the parts, and about 10 months 
to a year to see it hit the road again. Less if you have more 
money/time. And that is just to be a rolling restoration. If this 
doesn't sound appealing, or isn't feasable, then pass it up.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Paul <vrt10whips_at_dml_y...>" 
<vrt10whips_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Well I drove out last night and looked over the car with a buddy of 
> mine as best we could.  Heres what we found.
<SNIP>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 13:11:05 -0700
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Need your opinions on this D

It might be worth $4-5000 from your description. Basically if it doesn't
run, you almost have to treat it as a parts car from the standpoint of how
much to pay. You won't know if it's better until you can disassemble a lot
of it.

The clutch issue sounds like rust on the input shaft and other areas where
the clutch is located. Any stick shift vehicle that is parked for an
extended period of time in a moist environment can have this happen. My
Ford tractor used to do this every winter. The solution for it was to start
the tractor in 1st gear, get it moving good, then stand on both the clutch
and brake pedals for 2 seconds at time. About the 2nd or 3rd time it would
break loose and work fine for the rest of the season.

A car, especially a DeLorean won't have low enough gearing to make this
work well, so the best solution is to disassemble, clean, and probably
installl a new clutch kit. At that point the problem should be solved.

This sounds like a car my brother-in-law had mentioned to me. He had run
across it while visiting his brother in Sullivan, MO. I told him it didn't
sound like it was worth the $10k they were asking for it, but never got out
there to take a look before we moved. It's been there for while according
to him.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 03:57 PM 12/13/2002 -0000, you wrote:
>
>The clutch pedal wont move at all.  Up or down.  I dont know if this 
>is due to sitting, or if anything was unhooked or what.  If anyone 
>has any Idea please let me know.  (The stick moved into the gears.)
>I could find out.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 23:15:47 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: muffler brackets and bushing installation

Hey everyone,

part of my winter project was removing my muffler and painting the muffler 
brackets, replacing the heat shield, and replacing the rubber bushings and 
all the hardware there is under there.  unfortuntely i seem to be having a 
hard time figuring out how to reinstall everything.  what has me confused is 
the orientation of the bushing (whether  it goes on which way - the rubber 
narrow side or the mounting side towards the inner welded end of the muffler 
pins) and then how the muffler bracket is screwed to the bushing relative to 
the bushing's orientation.  i think the picture in the shop manual is wrong.  


here's the deal - there's three bushings and three brackets.  i have to know 
if the narrow end faces away from the muffler on each pin, or if it is facing 
inward. i think all three are orientated the same.  THEN i have to know if 
the brackets are between the bushing and muffler or it goes 
muffler-bushing-bracket.  does that make sense?  certainly if someone has 
their car nearby and see what i am talking about, this should be easy to 
figure out if we can communicate with the same language.  if someone had pics 
of the bushings that would be even more helpful!

thank you very much for the help, whoever it is that can assist me!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 05:31:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door problems too

A couple of well placed drops of oil should help. The better thing to 
do would be to remove the strut, clean both pins and sockets, grease 
the pins and reinstall. Don't forget to prop the door open while 
removing the strut and remember there are spring pins to remove first 
before removing the struts. The only reason to replace the strut is if 
it isn't keeping the door open all the way which happens after several 
years. While you are at it a couple of drops of oil on the passenger 
side strut would be a good idea too!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> Ok I'm having my first major problem with my drivers side door.
> The joint where the strut connects to the door is squeaking really
> badly and the door has become harder to close.  I'm hoping the
> strut is not ready to pop off, but what can I do right now to
> tighten this up/get rid of this problem outside of buying a strut?
> Is there anything?
> 
> (I need to drive my D to work tomorrow so I'm hoping it will hold
> up until I can get advice and take some kind of look at this!)
> 
> Thank you as always,
> 
> Richard




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 08:40:24 -0000
From: "doastore <doastore_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <doastore_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Gold Cars

Wow!!


I've just finished shipping in excess of 50 gold Sunstar DeLorean 
model cars and I've received orders for over 30 more since Peter 
James posted the $29.95 price offer from the DeLorean Store to DOA 
members. The offer ends at 11:59pm tomorrow night.


I will honor all orders received before the deadline at the $29.95 
pre-order price, even if my existing stock is sold out and we have to 
wait until the next shipment arrives to process the late arrivals.


Order from: www.deloreanstore.com or call me at the store (805) 641-
3161. If I don't answer, just leave a message and I'll get back to 
you.


Happy Holidays and thanks for all your support.


Julie Johnson

DeLorean Owners Association

DeLorean Store 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:36:38 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: hard starting when wet continued....

So after parking my car in the rain for a while it is hard to start, 
and sometimes imposible until the water evaporates. Water is coming 
in through the engine cover screens and filling up the valleys where 
the spark plugs are.

My temporary fix for this while be to stick down some plastic over 
the screens with silicone gel. I think this will keep water from 
getting on the engine. 

Adam




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 09:37:44 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door problems too

grease the joint. Remove the strut and grease the nubs where it 
connects.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> Ok I'm having my first major problem with my drivers side door.
> The joint where the strut connects to the door is squeaking really
> badly and the door has become harder to close.  I'm hoping the
> strut is not ready to pop off, but what can I do right now to
> tighten this up/get rid of this problem outside of buying a strut?
> Is there anything?
> 
> (I need to drive my D to work tomorrow so I'm hoping it will hold
> up until I can get advice and take some kind of look at this!)
> 
> Thank you as always,
> 
> Richard




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 16:53:21 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Delorean Calendar

Dear list,

Thanks for the huge response for pictures to be used in the 2003 
Delorean Calendar.

The majority of the calendar is put together and we have already 
printed some test copies.  We would like anyone that has a picture to 
submit, to get it in as soon as possible (this week).  Of course, the 
highest resolution pics have the best chance of being used.  Some 
lower resolution pics can be used with some cleanup work.  If you 
send a pic please include your name, vin#, shot location, and the 
month the photo was taken.

Pictures can be submitted to gullwingmagazine(at)juno.com

For those of you that have submitted a picture that will be used, you 
will get a free copy of the calendar.

Again, thanks for the interest and we're sure you will all enjoy the 
2003 Delorean Calendar.

Sincerely,
Ron & Cheryl
Gullwing Magazine








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 18:00:07 -0000
From: "media1524 <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Opinions of Value

Hi All,

I have found a 1981 for sale nearby, VIN #003049 and I would like 
some idea of what kind of deal I can make.  It has 4,683.1 miles and 
looks new inside and out, second owner, grey interior, automatic, 
grooves with no flap and locking gas cap, plastic coolant bottle, 
fender mount antenna, two key locking system with flashlight, black 
stripe kit, safety upgrades are done.  The car has Yokohama tires on 
it but the owner has origional NCTs.  The AC has been completely 
overhauled (R12).  The owner said that he bought the car three years 
ago from a museum with 328 miles on it.  He says he has $24,000 in 
the car.  It is consigned to a dealer with an asking price of 
$18,950.  I was considering offering $18,000.

Any opinions?

Brent Lundgren
VIN #017006




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 16:03:42 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Opinions of Value

In a message dated 12/15/02 12:17:30 PM Central Standard Time, 
brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net writes:


> It is consigned to a dealer with an asking price of 
> $18,950.  I was considering offering $18,000.
> 
> Any opinions?

Sounds like a good deal - but now we go back to the same old questions - how 
does it run and how does the fuel system look?  have the coolant hoses been 
changed yet?  i would also be quite concerned about the brake fluid as well.  
hopefully the engine oil has been changed more than once?  IF all the fluids 
have been changed, rubber hoses replaced, etc etc, then i think $18,950 is a 
pretty fair price for it.  especially if it is in good running condition.  
but as always - buyer beware! don't assume ANYTHING!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 22:54:36 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: hard starting when wet continued....

I hate to say this, but there really no temporary fix here, only a permanent one.  
If you don't have the PRV specific spakplug wires, then you will need them (I 
don't know the #, but BOSCH ones will work just fine). And if you do have 
them, you just need to reseat them. Reseating/replacing your spark plug wires 
is far easier than rigging up any temporary that wasn't meant the be there in 
the first place.

Aside from water comming in from the top, you can also have water come up 
from the bottom. Before proper storm drains were installed in the area where I 
live, it wasn't uncommon to drive thru 6-8" of flood water in the middle of the 
street. When you hit deep enough water, it can splash up onto the motor/
exhaust system and steam up the entire engine compartment, as well as the 
rear windows. And of course it can condense back down and give you the 
same problem. It's one thing to have hard starting, but another to completly 
stall the car in the street.

Plus an incomplete spark can lead to damage to both the engine, and 
catalytic convertor, as well as posing a fire hazard to the entire vehicle.

Save youself time, worry, and headaches. Just get the plugs replaced.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_h...>" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> So after parking my car in the rain for a while it is hard to start, 
> and sometimes imposible until the water evaporates. Water is coming 
> in through the engine cover screens and filling up the valleys where 
> the spark plugs are.
> 
> My temporary fix for this while be to stick down some plastic over 
> the screens with silicone gel. I think this will keep water from 
> getting on the engine. 
> 
> Adam




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 02:03:39 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Calendar

Ron & Cheryl - How does one go about getting a copy of this calendar 
once it is published?

Harold McElraft - 3354





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 12:57:32 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Door problems too

Seems to me I recall the DMC-12 has 2 doors. Use the other one for a while. 
That way they'll wear more evenly.... :-)

In a message dated 12/14/02 12:03:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com writes:

<< Ok I'm having my first major problem with my drivers side door.
 The joint where the strut connects to the door is squeaking really
 badly and the door has become harder to close.  I'm hoping the
 strut is not ready to pop off, but what can I do right now to
 tighten this up/get rid of this problem outside of buying a strut?
 Is there anything?
 
 (I need to drive my D to work tomorrow so I'm hoping it will hold
 up until I can get advice and take some kind of look at this!)
 
 Thank you as always,
 
 Richard >>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/