From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1319
Date: Thursday, December 26, 2002 3:59 AM

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There are 8 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Possible Serious Problem?
From: "Sean <pugrambo_at_dml_nella.net.au>" <pugrambo_at_dml_nella.net.au>

2. Re: Possible Serious Problem?
From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch_at_dml_bluewin.ch>

3. Re: Metal coolant bottle
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

4. Merry Christmas!
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

5. Re: Metal coolant bottle
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Re: Metal coolant bottle
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

7. Re: Metal coolant bottle
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

8. Re: Re: Possible Serious Problem?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 00:01:29 -0000
From: "Sean <pugrambo_at_dml_nella.net.au>" <pugrambo_at_dml_nella.net.au>
Subject: Re: Possible Serious Problem?

where is the "cast iron" in a PRV engine block ?
they are an alloy block and heads

you will find that driving the car that short distance will not have 
harmed the car but from the local volvo dealer you should be able to 
get a set of 6(six) plug covers that fit on your leads to cover your 
plugs and keep most of the water out of the holes and more 
importantly keep most of the dirt out as well so that when you go to 
change your plugs you won't have the dirt that has fallen in the 
holes end up in the cylinders

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Scott, Cast Iron can take a lot of heat and not do any damage to 
the engine 
> block. There is a gasket that separates the two. As for the plugs, 
If you 
> have an air tank you can blow the water out or soak it out with 
rags or paper 
> towels. If the plugs and wires need to be replaced, That can be 
easily done 
> by taking a few screws out and lifting up the air flow meter about 
an inch. 
> If you have never done this, call me when your at the car and I 
can walk you 
> through it.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 
> 
> << In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Scott Tester <scott_at_dml_d...> wrote:
>  > I took my DeLorean to the car wash a week ago and degreased the 
>  engine with a pressure washer. After that it started sputtering 
and 
>  had a severe loss in power. I pulled a few spark plug wires and 
of 
>  coarse determined that the problem was water in the spark plug 
wells. 
>  I knew after seeing it that I would have to disassemble the top 
of the 
>  engine to replace the spark plugs and wires.
>  > 
>  > The possible problem is that tonight when I came back from the 
>  grocery store I noticed the engine felt hotter than normal, so I 
>  opened the engine bay. I was in shock as I saw that my header was 
red 
>  hot, glowing in the dark of my garage! Have I damaged the engine 
by 
>  driving it just a few miles in this condition? I'm pretty sure 
it's 
>  just fuel building up and then burning hotter in one or more of 
the 
>  cylinders that doesn't fire every revolution. But I'm worried it 
might 
>  have warped or damaged the engine in some way!
>  > 
>  > Has anyone else experienced this? I checked the archives and 
all I 
>  could find was mentions of a leaking header gasket causing the 
>  "glowing header".
>  >  >>




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 11:40:49 +0100
From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch_at_dml_bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Possible Serious Problem?

Date: 25 Dec 2002

Re: 'Glowing Header'

Hello Scott,

the last (and only) time this happened to me was a completely dead catalytic
converter on both sides. I drove the car 3 miles. The telltale sign was no
accelereation or power when stepping on the accelerator. It burnt all the
rubbers in any joint and gasket I could think off (including suspension).
The glow in the engine bay was neat, though.
Needless to say, it was a costly experience on an Aston Martin ...

Arthur G. Sutsch




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 16:13:10 -0500
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Metal coolant bottle

I like this one better because it looks like an exact replacement for the
plastic one.  The new metal bottle looks like it wasn't meant for our car.
It doesn't fit aesthetically.  I need one like yours.



Joseph
vin 2850

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Noeltner" <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 12:04 PM
Subject: [DML] Metal coolant bottle


> I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I bought.
> It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of tubing
> installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle without
> opening it. Picture:
> http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg
>
> 1. Who sold this originally? Just curious, as it doesn't really matter.
>
> 2. The tubing for the level check is getting pretty yellowed. Does anyone
> know where I can get some 3/8" ID clear tubing that will handle the
> temperatures and pressures of a cooling system? This is a fairly heavy
> walled tubing. Much heavier than what I'm finding at the local hardware
> stores. Plus, what I've located so far has a max temp of 165 deg (plus or
> minus a few degrees depending on who made it). I was figuring 250 to 300
> deg with at least 25 lbs of pressure to be on the safe side.
>
> It is only a 4" piece of tubing, so it may be that they used the 165 deg
> stuff figuring that a short piece like that would hold up fine.
>
> Anybody know anything about this bottle? My original plastic bottle has
> been holding up great, but I figured I would install this alum bottle this
> winter to play it safe.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark N
> VIN 6820
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 09:41:59 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Merry Christmas!

Just wanted to wish everyone else here on the list a Merry Christmas, and 
Happy Holidays to all!

Aside from the usual opening of gifts and cooking of Christmas dinner, I'll be 
in the garage vacuuming out pine needles from the passenger floorboard of 
my D (I *must* get my luggage rack installed!).

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 17:08:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Metal coolant bottle

When I installed a metal coolant header bottle on my car I also 
thought it would be neat to have a sight gauge to see the fluid level. 
I couldn't find any clear tubing that would take the heat and 
pressure. What I ended up doing was running a tube from the overflow 
fitting under the pressure cap to an overflow bottle. Now the coolant 
system is always presureized so it cannot foam and I can always see 
the level and even add some without opening the coolant system. This 
is exactly how it is now done on all modern cars. My advice would be 
to plug the fittings that go to the sight glass hose and install an 
overflow bottle. Be careful with the fitting under the pressure cap. 
On my bottle it was only a press fit so it can come loose. I 
reinstalled it with some silicone for a leakproof seal since it is 
under slight pressure and vacuum.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I 
bought.
> It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of 
tubing
> installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle 
without
> opening it. Picture:
> http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg
> 
> 1. Who sold this originally? Just curious, as it doesn't really 
matter.
> 
> 2. The tubing for the level check is getting pretty yellowed. Does 
anyone
> know where I can get some 3/8" ID clear tubing that will handle the
> temperatures and pressures of a cooling system? This is a fairly 
heavy
> walled tubing. Much heavier than what I'm finding at the local 
hardware
> stores. Plus, what I've located so far has a max temp of 165 deg 
(plus or
> minus a few degrees depending on who made it). I was figuring 250 to 
300
> deg with at least 25 lbs of pressure to be on the safe side.
> 
> It is only a 4" piece of tubing, so it may be that they used the 165 
deg
> stuff figuring that a short piece like that would hold up fine.
> 
> Anybody know anything about this bottle? My original plastic bottle 
has
> been holding up great, but I figured I would install this alum 
bottle this
> winter to play it safe.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Mark N
> VIN 6820




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 13:54:30 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Metal coolant bottle

i would like to see a picture of your set-up for the over flow bottle, could you send me
a picture so i can understand your set-up better if you have a digital camera?

thanks
mark



"David Teitelbaum " wrote:

> When I installed a metal coolant header bottle on my car I also
> thought it would be neat to have a sight gauge to see the fluid level.
> I couldn't find any clear tubing that would take the heat and
> pressure. What I ended up doing was running a tube from the overflow
> fitting under the pressure cap to an overflow bottle. Now the coolant
> system is always presureized so it cannot foam and I can always see
> the level and even add some without opening the coolant system. This
> is exactly how it is now done on all modern cars. My advice would be
> to plug the fittings that go to the sight glass hose and install an
> overflow bottle. Be careful with the fitting under the pressure cap.
> On my bottle it was only a press fit so it can come loose. I
> reinstalled it with some silicone for a leakproof seal since it is
> under slight pressure and vacuum.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I
> bought.
> > It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of
> tubing
> > installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle
> without
> > opening it. Picture:
> > http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg
> >
> > 1. Who sold this originally? Just curious, as it doesn't really
> matter.
> >
> > 2. The tubing for the level check is getting pretty yellowed. Does
> anyone
> > know where I can get some 3/8" ID clear tubing that will handle the
> > temperatures and pressures of a cooling system? This is a fairly
> heavy
> > walled tubing. Much heavier than what I'm finding at the local
> hardware
> > stores. Plus, what I've located so far has a max temp of 165 deg
> (plus or
> > minus a few degrees depending on who made it). I was figuring 250 to
> 300
> > deg with at least 25 lbs of pressure to be on the safe side.
> >
> > It is only a 4" piece of tubing, so it may be that they used the 165
> deg
> > stuff figuring that a short piece like that would hold up fine.
> >
> > Anybody know anything about this bottle? My original plastic bottle
> has
> > been holding up great, but I figured I would install this alum
> bottle this
> > winter to play it safe.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Mark N
> > VIN 6820
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 21:27:22 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Metal coolant bottle

I too have always wanted a coolant bottle with a window on the side 
to measure the coolant level. While doing some last minute shopping 
yesterday _at_dml_ Target, I noticed a very unusual SS canister for dry 
goods. This one has a flush window inplace to see the level of the 
contents inside.
http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=189832

Something like this would be very nice to have on the coolant bottle, 
except of course to have it mounted verticly. The canister in the 
link above just uses a plastic insert, and a frame press-fitted into 
place rather than welded. Does anyone know if this can be done? 
Eventually when I get around to customizing my interior, I figure on 
also installing a float just like Volvo cars into the surge tank to 
activate a warning light when the level is too low. So when I have a 
custom bottle made, I'd like to have a window like this installed as 
well.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I like this one better because it looks like an exact replacement 
for the
> plastic one.  The new metal bottle looks like it wasn't meant for 
our car.
> It doesn't fit aesthetically.  I need one like yours.
> 
> 
> 
> Joseph
> vin 2850
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Noeltner" <mark_at_dml_b...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 12:04 PM
> Subject: [DML] Metal coolant bottle
> 
> 
> > I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I 
bought.
> > It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of 
tubing
> > installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle 
without
> > opening it. Picture:
> > http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg
> >
<SNIP>




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 15:05:35 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Possible Serious Problem?

In a message dated 12/25/02 8:28:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
pugrambo_at_dml_nella.net.au writes:

<< where is the "cast iron" in a PRV engine block ?
 they are an alloy block and heads >>

I saw that my header was red hot,

It's not in the block, they are attached to it , it's the cast iron headers 
for the exhaust. 

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



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