From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 853
Date: Thursday, January 03, 2002 1:33 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: New radio bracket
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

2. DMC Houston
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

3. Re: Relay Box Question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady
From: rorx77_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

6. Re: brake pads.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: door strut questions (up or down?)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

8. Re: door strut questions (up or down?)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Inertia Switch
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: New radio bracket
From: "John Galik" <j.galik_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: Accessories won't turn off.
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

13. Conversion to BTTF car?
From: batman282_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: brake pads.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

15. Re: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
From: "m_theshark" <sharksigns_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. RE.inertia switch
From: nathan galloway <boomkari_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. youngest delorean owner and local d owner
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 20:21:34 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: New radio bracket

>>The new mount I got is all metal, and I assume it goes UNDER this
black plastic.

>>My question?  Won't I still have to now cut the black plastic for my CD
player din sized radio to mount?  If so, what was the purpose of getting the
mounting kit?

It does not go under your existing black plastic. Your existing assy had the 
plastic  laminated or bonded to the metal frame before it was stamped and 
welded at the factory. Remove your existing radio mount frame and it should 
become obvious. The purpose of getting the mounting kit is that you don't 
have to hack up your original bracket, in case you want the extra points from 
the concourse judges some day.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 17:23:58 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: DMC Houston

I've been well treated by all of the vendors, said that before, I've
also been ignored by all of the vendors, part of life.  I've been
totally forgotten at times and had to remind vendors.  I'm ok with
that.  Truth is the vendors are very busy, it's easy to fall into the
cracks.  Rob Grady is one of the best but upon one occasion there was a
lengthy delay, after several tries a asked him not to make me get down
and beg because it hurt my knees and it was too hard to get back up...he
got on the 'phone immediately and took care of it.

Re DMC Houston, talk with James Espey, he always signs off his e-mails
with something like "is there anything else we can do for you."  If I
have a problem I truly can't figure out, like a part that has no
listing, I go to James, he greases the skids and I get results.
Remember also that the vendors are answering a lot of 'phone calls, for
free, covering questions asked by one and all.  It's even possible
someone might have a bad day...adjust your attitude, you should do just
fine.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 20:44:09 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Relay Box Question

Shain, The loose relay socket your referring to is the Hot start relay. There 
is no mounting place for it so it sits up there. It wasn't used after it was 
designed in, They just never removed it from the wiring harness.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/modification.shtml



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 20:47:49 EST
From: rorx77_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady

I too have ordered parts from DMC Houston, without a hiccup!!!!  James, 
Walter and steven are great people, and will do or help you with any problem 
you may have. I think this is just a case of them moving and finishing the 
new warehouse. Be patient I know these guys will come thru for you.

Rory Robinson
VIN #3010



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 02:42:26 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit

If that O-ring is not there then you have 2 problems. 

1. There will be a vacuum leak and 

2. Yes it will cause the plunger to be off since now the distributor 
is sitting slightly lower. Remember....the slightest maladjustment 
can cause the entire fuel delivery system to go out of whack.

To answer your question about adjusting the air/fuel mixture: You 
will need a CO analyzer a 3mm Hex key and patience. Some people have 
done the adjustment without the CO analyzer and used a Volt meter 
but to do it right you will need a CO analyzer and take the readings 
from the tap ports on the cross over pipes. I would leave the CO 
adjustment to a competent garage since the analyzers are fairly 
expensive.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "deloreanfl" <ericp_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hi Mike,
> 
> Don't forget to install the rubber O-Ring that goes between the 
fuel 
> distributor and the mixture control unit.  I was told by several 
> people that this wouldn't make a difference, and wasn't needed - 
but 
> I forgot to replace mine one time...and had EXACTLY the same 
result 
> you are having. My guess is that it raises the plunger pin just 
high 
> enough from a rest position to make a difference.  But hey, this 
is 
> my guess: All I know is that my car wouldn't work without it!
> 
> Good Luck
> Eric
> Dunedin, FL
> deloreanfl_at_dml_t...
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >     Hello DML,
> > 
> >     I'm helping out a new owner tune up his car and replace the 
> fuel 
> > injection system. We have reset the car back to factory 
settings. 
> However we 
> > have encountered a small adjustment issue.
> > 
> >  Installed new fuel distributor and control pressure regulator, 
> etc., etc., 
> > on new owners car. What is proper way to adjust air/fuel ratio?
> > 
> >     Engine starts, however only runs when fuel distributor is 
free 
> (loose) 
> > from mixture control unit. (Fuel lines attached) 
> > 
> > i.e. Engine will stall when three screws to attach fuel 
distributor 
> to 
> > mixture control unit is secure. Engine will run when screws 
> removed, however 
> > idle is rough.
> > 
> >     Seems as though the plunger on the bottom of the fuel 
> distributor is out 
> > of sequence with the air plenum arm beneath the air box.
> > 
> > This is the first time that I have seen the air plenum and fuel 
> distr. 
> > plunger is out of alignment.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Mike




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:26:46 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: brake pads.

You asked:
>I spent a long time yesterday crossreferencing parts to no avail. <

Brake pads for the DeLorean are available from all of the Delorean parts
vendors for around $32 a pair; for a few extra dollars you can have them
delivered via Next Day Air.

DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: <jwit6_at_dml_cs.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 6:50 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.


> D-59 comes to mind for the fronts. Autozone is terrible when asked to help
with a cross reff part.
>
>
> >
> >I need brake pads. Does anyone know of some pads that are readily
> >available from napa or autozone or other common parts stores? I spent a
long
> >time yesterday crossreferencing parts to no avail. I was told by an
autozone
> >employee that RepcoParts went out of business, I also tried KEM, Girling,
> >BAP/GEON, and those MINTEX pads that were posted to the board a while
back.
> >None of the parts numbers were in there.
> >
> >Adam 16683
> >





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 21:39:43 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: door strut questions (up or down?)

Factory procedures require that the struts be installed with the extending
rod facing down.  This orientation allows dirt, water, and moisture to move
away from the piston seal.

DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net

www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 11:24 PM
Subject: [DML] door strut questions (up or down?)


> We just had a cool New Years Day DeLorean party at my place.  Three (and
one
> half) DeLoreans were there.  (woo-hoo!)
>
> Questions:
> What is the proper orientation of the door struts? Does the rod belong on
> the top or the bottom or does it matter?
>
> I looked at photos of Rob Grady's green DeLorean, and his has the rods
> pointing down.  I suppose that if anyone knows then he would.
>
> My car has the rods pointing down too and are leaking oil.  They have been
> leaking ever since I had the car (almost 2 years).  I assume that if my
rods
> were pointing up, then the oil would stay in the bottom and not leak out.
> But then instead of leaking oil, I suppose they would loose their charge
> faster.  Oil is thicker than the nitrogen charge, so if it is a choice
> between leaking one or the other then it would be better to leak the thick
> oil because it would drain a lot slower than the thin nitrogen.
>
> My struts are also probably over-charged.  We took one off today to see
how
> far the door would open without the strut.  It didn't.  Instead it rested
on
> the latches.  Since I hear that there should be about 4" gap between the
> bottom of the door and the door sill, then at least this tells me that my
> torsion bar isn't over-torqued.  But with the strut in place, I have to
hold
> on to the door or else goes up with such force that it will bounce at the
> top of travel.  I have already determined that I have 'cheap' struts that
do
> not slow down at the end of travel.  Better struts have a dampening
> mechanism to stop this.  Mine are Lift-o-mat brand.  By the way, the
weather
> was cold -- definitely worthy of wearing a coat.  In hot Florida weather
the
> door has a greater tendancy to pop open.
>
> The other two guys (Jim Sleeth & Randy Stribling)'s DeLoreans had their
> struts mounted 'upside down' compared to mine such that the rods were
> pointing up.  Jim said that his struts are fairly new, but are not as
strong
> as they were when he first put them on.  My theory is that his struts lost
> some of their charge due to leaking nitrogen instead of oil.
>
> Does anyone have an official answer?
>
> Walt    Tampa, FL
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 03:40:15 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: door strut questions (up or down?)

For the most "official" answer refer to 8-4-0 in the Workshop Manual. 
It clearly shows the orientation of the "gas strut". With the latest 
struts now being offered it probably doesn't matter so much anymore 
but if Rob Grady says to mount it piston down he should know as he is 
directly in touch with the supplier.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews, Walter Coe wrote:
> > What is the proper orientation of the door struts?
> > Does the rod belong on the top or the bottom or 
> >does it matter?
> [snip]
> > Does anyone have an official answer?
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 03:46:42 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Inertia Switch

If your inertia switch is still mounted by the Lambda counter then it 
is probably the recalled one. The switch was to be replaced with an 
improved version with a white paint spot and relocated to the kick 
panel by the bonnet release. Even after resetting the "old" switch it 
may now be defective so the car won't run. To test this theory just 
connect the black/purple wire to ground, the fuel pump should now run.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Max Glover" <glovermr_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> James,
> 
> Make sure the small wiring harness on the bottom of the switch is 
connected
> securely.  I hit the switch while rearranging my floor mat once and 
spent
> the next hour in absolute bewilderment as to why my car refused to 

> > and the engine died. I looked at the switch and pusted the plunger
> > back down but not the fuel pump does not appear to be comming on 
as
> > the car will turn over but not start.
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 04:02:30 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady

[Moderator's note(yet again}: We all have our loyalties and opinions of the various vendors. Every time a post comes along regarding a vendor it launches a flurry of responses from those wanting to expound on those loyalties. As I said earlier, I'm not going to let this expand into another round of vendor bashing so I'm ending this subject with this post as it pretty much says it all.]




Every vender I have ever dealt with has had a bad day. Every service 
business is only as good as their worst employee on a bad day. If you 
always go to the same restaurant I am sure you have seen variations in 
their service (even McDonalds!). You must look at their performance on 
the whole and just say you were that unlucky customer that day. I am 
sure for the most part when you point out how you were treated most of 
the venders that we are all familiar with will go out of their way to 
"make you happy" and take some kind of steps to prevent a repeat. In 
restaurants if 1 customer complains they figure that the same problem 
has happened at least 10 other times. I don't think that is the case 
in the World of Deloreans but if you don't tell the vender you had the 
problem with then how would they ever know to correct it? Most of the 
time these issues are best corrected offlist. Just recently someone 
had exactly the opposite experience as you. This is no indication as 
it appears these are isolated events and all we get on the list is 
your side of the situation. Learn to deal with and share your business 
with all of the venders because if WE don't support them who will? Of 
course pick your favorite just because that is human nature. Remember 
that most of the parts you will buy, especially OEM, NOS, will have 
come out of Housten because he has the old inventory. Ultimatly you 
have the power of the wallet so it behooves the venders to please you.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> [Moderators note: I'm not going to let this grow into another round 
of vendor bashing so be warned, I'll be looking over the responses 
rather carefully]
> 
> 
> i have some concerns and opinions on these companies and would like 
to hear
> the groups thoughts/versions of thier experiences with each.
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 23:09:20 -0500
From: "John Galik" <j.galik_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: New radio bracket

Kevin

You won't need the black plastic piece for the new radio, save it along with
the new bracket.

John Galik
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
To: Dmcnews (E-mail) <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 7:31 PM
Subject: [DML] New radio bracket


> I recieved a new radio bracket from DMC houston as my X-mas gift from my
> wife.
>
> I have a question:  WHen i looked at my original radio mount (the one I do
> not have to cut) it has a black plastic "covering" that faces out into the
> cabin.  The new mount I got is all metal, and I assume it goes UNDER this
> black plastic.
>
> My question?  Won't I still have to now cut the black plastic for my CD
> player din sized radio to mount?  If so, what was the purpose of getting
the
> mounting kit?
>
> Kevin Abato
> Vin #16680
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 23:27:46 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Accessories won't turn off.

Accessories relay stuck closed. May not happen again, but could any time. 
Next time wrap on it with a little something and see if it doesn't un stick.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/  



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 00:30:39 EST
From: batman282_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Conversion to BTTF car?

Hello All

I don't post here much as I don't have my own D yet, however I might be 
getting one soon (which I am very excited about), so I figured now would be a 
great time to start posting. I was just wondering (and some of you D purists 
*might* find this blasphemous) if anyone knew of a place that could turn your 
D into a replica of the BTTF D? Does anyone know of any websites, costs, 
phone numbers, etc. for places that do such things? Any help would be much 
appreciated!

James
No D Yet



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 06:08:20 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: brake pads.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Brake pads for the DeLorean are available from all of the 
Delorean parts
> vendors for around $32 a pair; for a few extra dollars you can 
have them
> delivered via Next Day Air.
> 
> DMC Joe
> DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_a...
> www.dmc.tv

Not just to agree with DMC Joe, but the truth is DeLorean 
vendors will be able to get the pads to you faster then the auto 
parts stores. I made the mistake of using crossover pads, and it 
took longer to get them thru Pep-Boys than it would have any 
DeLorean vendor!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 06:22:33 -0000
From: "m_theshark" <sharksigns_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> [ Moderator's note: I'm a bit curious why many go to great pains to 
work around simply ordering something from one of the DeLorean shops ]
> 
> 
> I need brake pads. Does anyone know of some pads that are readily 
> available from napa or autozone or other common parts stores? I 
spent a long 
> time yesterday crossreferencing parts to no avail. I was told by an 
autozone 
> employee that RepcoParts went out of business, I also tried KEM, 
Girling, 
> BAP/GEON, and those MINTEX pads that were posted to the board a 
while back. 
> None of the parts numbers were in there.
> 
> Adam 16683
> 
Adam, 
The front brake pads are a direct match to the '79 Ford Capri pads, 
and the back match Porsche from Beck & Arnley.  If you have a local 
old time parts store they have have actual outline drawings to which 
you can lay the old pads on and compare.  I have used these pads with 
great success.(Longer wear / Less dust)  These pads will cost you 
about 1/4 the price of DMC pads.  This is a great reason to search 
for cross referenced parts.  I should have the box labels for these 
pads and if you e-mail me directly at sharksigns_at_dml_yahoo.com I will see 
if I can dig them up. Hope this helps, Mark 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at 
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 23:22:54 -0800 (PST)
From: nathan galloway <boomkari_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE.inertia switch


this acually happened to me while me and my freind
where test driving my baby for the first time. i was
soooo excited about it and the way it drove and we
stopped to switch drivers and i kicked the switch
unknowingly while taking my shoes off (feet too big )
i had little knowledge about it so when the engine
stopped i almost cried that my gorgious car might me a
lemon. luckily for us i had my cell and we called the
guy to come and pick us up. (never a call you wanna
make.... sorry but i screwed your car on my test
drive=) anyway in a while after we checked everything
else we realized what was wrong but it still took
about 30 min of trying and waiting for the fuel to
circulate again. when you cut the pump off and then
try to restart you use all you had in the system and
it takes a while to get it going agian. if youve tryed
for a while im not sure what it could be unless
something got knocked loose or disconnected. hope you
figure it out and are driving again. HAPPY NEW YEAR
EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
byebyebyeybeybeybeybyeb  
nathan galloway
boomkari_at_dml_yahoo.com
1981 vin 5220
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I
was driving my D the otherday and putting into the
garage, my foot 
slipped off the brake pedal (automatic) and kicked the
inertia switch 
and the engine died. I looked at the switch and pusted
the plunger 
back down but not the fuel pump does not appear to be
comming on as 
the car will turn over but not start.

Is it possible that by kicking the switch I have
knackered it? and 
can I take it a part and service it

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 03:36:52 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: youngest delorean owner and local d owner

if you think you may be this please post, i'm interested in who this may be.
in america you have to be 18 in order to technically own a car, or legally
emancipated... so unless someone got one just recently i just may be it.
i'm 18, born june 1st of 83 (I wanted a june 83 car... but i wasn't going to
let that effect my decision too much... i got a june 81 by coincidence)

the title has to be in your name, not your father's car that you drive.

just curious.

and while we're at it... oldest? if you're comfortable sharing.

also, anyone around the metro detroit area that would like to meet up some
weekend after the weather gets a bit better. i hate michigan salt.

james lalonde
01967



_________________________________________________________

Do You Yahoo!?

Get your free _at_dml_yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/