From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 859
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 7:58 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Releasing Luggage Compartment Lid
From: J <sundiver_at_dml_discordia.org>

2. Re: torsion bar removal
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Hand-Brake
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

4. Re: Drive train and cooling system problems
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Ohio DeLorean Get Together
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

6. Re: torsion bar removal
From: "mcookwwi" <mark_at_dml_wizwarecomputers.com>

7. black leather stats.
From: "dmcjohn" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. URL request
From: "Phil Peters" <philpeters_at_dml_postmaster.co.uk>

9. Engine upgrade poll.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

10. Re: Re: torsion bar removal
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

11. RE: URL request
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

12. Re: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

13. RE: URL request
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

14. Re: URL request For AC Panel Illumination
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

15. Re: URL request
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

16. Car wont start... Starts now!!!
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: black leather stats.
From: Craig Clarke <mister_c_at_dml_telusplanet.net>

18. Re: Re: door strut (up or down?)
From: Mike Hirko <mikehirko_at_dml_tdn.com>

19. Re: URL request
From: "John Galik" <j.galik_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

20. Leather Treatment
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

21. A thank you to the fine Senator
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: Fuel pressure at the injectors?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: AC-panellights modification (Was: URL request)
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

24. Re: door strut (up or down?)
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

25. AIM/AOL Chat List
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 10:29:05 -0500
From: J <sundiver_at_dml_discordia.org>
Subject: Re: Releasing Luggage Compartment Lid

On Thursday 03 January 2002 11:21 pm, you wrote:
> Hi there,
>
> Is there anyone that knows how to open the lid for luggage compartment, if
> the cable comes disconnected while closed? I asked the DOA and they gave me
> instructions to go in through the brake fluid reservoir, but I was
> wondering if there is an easier way to pop the lid.
>

Depends on what you consider easier. I had the cable break on me when the 
luggage compartment was full of stuff, so there was no way I could go in 
through the reservoir cover. What I ended up doing was to pull up gently on 
the corner of the hood near the passinger door just enough so that I could 
slide in a broom stick. With the brook stick I pushed on the metal lever 
under the hood latch (the piece that the cable pulls on), and opened the 
latch. The lever gets pulled toward the drivers side by the cable, so if you
can get the broom stick in from the passinger side and get the end against 
the lever, you can push it open.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 15:33:21 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: torsion bar removal

Either the head of the torsion bar has enlarged because someone used 
the wrong tool (or a worn one) to insert into the allen head or the 
splines are just tight. Work the bracket off slowly with bars, 
screwdrivers, wood or whatever it takes while LIGHTLY AND CAREFULLY 
tapping on the breaker bar as it is inserted into the torsion bar. Do 
not allow the bar to come out of the door hinge as it is still under 
torsion. After getting the torsion bar out some VERY CAREFULL filling 
of the splines till the bracket fits is all you need. Filing will not 
help if the head is enlarged. Be very careful working in this area as 
the edge of the "T" roof panel is exposed after removing the plastic 
valence and the edge of the metal will slice you up and you won't even 
feel it. This is a two man job, one to hold tension on the breaker bar 
and the other to try working off the bracket. This is one of the 
several problems that you can run into while trying to do a door 
adjustment. It is best if you can find someone in your area with some 
experience as it isn't always as easy as a procedure may indicate.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> I'm trying to tighen my torsion bars, but seems to be having 
problems
> with it.  I guess it IS best in the hands of a skillled 
professional.  I
> can't get the retaining bracket off the splines.  I started to pull 
it
> off, but it got stuck.  Then the whole torsion bar started coming 
out
> from the door mounted side.  what's up with this?  The book implies 
that
> the bracket should just slide off the spline.  The bracket will 
slide on
> the spline inward, but will not come off any more than flush with 
the
> spline.  
> 
> send help.
> 1537
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:40:37 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Hand-Brake

Sigh.........

After my full frame restoration, #6463 went for her first MOT in many years... Now to say I was nervous was an understatement, However she did me proud and sailed through the test.... Then stumbled and fell at the very last of 45 Checks, THE HAND BRAKE. Reason for failure " Hand brake weak at nearside and weaker at off side.

As far as I can see the callipers are working fine the pads are not worn, and the cables work too.

Any hints on how to get it through the re-test on this will be greatly appreciated........

Cheers

Paul
#6463  very very very nearly on the road leagally.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 15:44:51 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Drive train and cooling system problems

Call up a vender and get a "water pump master repair kit". Tell them 
you also want the bearings and "O" ring for the idler pulleys. Replace 
the water pump and all of the hoses and seals on top of the motor. In 
replacing hoses on a cooling system you must replace ALL of them 
including heater hoses. If any one should leak you lose all coolant 
and they are all the same age, probably 20 years at least. In tearing 
apart the top of the motor you will correct any problems as long as 
you are there. It is also a great time to replace the ignition wires 
and plugs because it is so easy now to reach. Testing and cleaning the 
injectors is also a good idea as is replacing all of the vacuum hoses 
under the air intake. New belts, new otterstadt, metal header tank, 
and a Fanzilla will make your cooling system "bulletproof". Before 
replacing the clutch make sure the hydraulic cylinders are functioning 
 properly and don't leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Wanted some input from the group so I don't go off on a tangent.  
Will start 
> with recent repairs.
> 
> Basically I am on a guest to replace all the deteriorating rubber on 
my car. 
>   Decided to replace the cooling hoses first since they were so bad 
> (replaced the radiator too).  Accidentally spilled some antifreeze 
on the 
> water pump and it made something like a rattle noise when I 
restarted.  This 
> soon went away so I assumed it was the fluid on the various belts 
burning 
> off.
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 11:36:42 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Ohio DeLorean Get Together

The DeLorean Club of Ohio will hold its Annual Party / Meeting January
19 at Mohican

Ohio's Mohican Resort & Conference Center is located one of the most
scenic spots in the state.  Centrally located near Interstate 71 and
route 97, Mohican is convenient for everyone.  Rooms and food are
reasonably priced.

Driving directions:From Interstate 71
1. Take exit 165, State Route 97 East through Bellville and Butler.
2. At the stoplight in Butler continue straight on 97 another 6 miles to

    McCurdy Road.
3. Turn left. Take McCurdy two miles to Goon Road.
4. Turn right on Goon Road and go 1/4 mile.
5. Turn left into our driveway, going 1 1/2 miles to the resort.

We will have lunch at noon in Bromfield's Dining Room, with our meeting
to follow.

Please RSVP to Patti or Mike Substelny at 216.321.5024 by Friday January
11, 2002.  Because this is a winter event, it is important that you let
us know if you are coming.  In the event of a weather related
cancellation (it's happened before!), we will notify those who RSVPed as
quickly as possible.

If you plan to reserve a room at the lodge call 1-800-AT-A-PARK or go to
www.mohicanresort.com for room reservations.

MEETING ADGENDA:
- Election of officers
- Plan 2002 events.
- Discuss DeLorean Car Show 2002 in Memphis, TN.  (Bring your checkbook
for early registration).
- Dues Payment
- John Z. DeLorean's belated birthday card.
- Assorted movies and entertainment
- Holiday party!

For Maple syrup fans, nearby Malabar Farm happens to be holding its
annual Backyard Maple Production Workshop on January 19 from 10:00 AM to
noon.  Some of us may check it out before lunch, but try not to spoil
your appetite.  Note that Malabar Farm's "Big House" will not hold tours
in January due to a major HVAC renovation project.

- Mike Substelny




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 16:18:00 -0000
From: "mcookwwi" <mark_at_dml_wizwarecomputers.com>
Subject: Re: torsion bar removal

A friend of mine had the same problem. Someone 'mushroomed' the end 
of your torsion bar. Inspect it carefully you may see what I'm 
talking about. We spent about 2 hrs hammering away to get it off. We 
put a screw driver in each side of the bracket between the bracket 
and the body of the car (to space the bracket from the body). Then, 
with the 3/8" hex socket FULLY inserted (and still holding the 
reverse force of the torsion bar with the breaker-bar), we hammered 
on the end of the socket to drive the torsion bar 'inward', while the 
bracket was being pushed outward by the screw driver 'spacers' that 
we had in there. We had to keep switching to large diameter screw 
drivers and then to chisels as the bracket came off due to the 
increase in space created by it. We hammer it for a while, and then 
remove the spacers and tap the bracket back down so we could spray 
some more lube and then start again. After a few hrs. of this, the 
bracket came off. We unwound and pulled the bar out. Then we 
CAREFULLY filed the end of the splines until the bracket would slide 
fairly easily on and off the splines. Then we reinserted and torqued 
it down. It works fine.

We figured this was about the only way to accomplish this short of 
destroying the bar and having to buy a new one. (it was the passenger 
side). But who wants to deplete something we may need some day? 

We did this in a LAST RESORT effort, so I do not really encourage it, 
but only offer it as an idea. MAKE SURE TO USE NEW TOP OF THE LINE 
STRONG TOOLS FOR THIS. You will be hammering on the end of a breaker-
bar and socket while it is under a LOT of force from the torsion bar.

Good luck!
Mark
10901

(contact me if you have any further questions!)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> I'm trying to tighen my torsion bars, but seems to be having 
problems
> with it.  I guess it IS best in the hands of a skillled 
professional.  I
> can't get the retaining bracket off the splines.  I started to pull 
it
> off, but it got stuck.  Then the whole torsion bar started coming 
out
> from the door mounted side.  what's up with this?  The book implies 
that
> the bracket should just slide off the spline.  The bracket will 
slide on
> the spline inward, but will not come off any more than flush with 
the
> spline.  
> 
> send help.
> 1537
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 17:07:55 -0000
From: "dmcjohn" <dmcjohn_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: black leather stats.

Hi group,
I'm currently looking for a 5 speed DeLorean with black leather, year 
doesn't matter. Having followed all the for sale ads for the past few 
months, I've noticed an unusual (and annoying for me!) trend, that 
there are very few 5 speeds for sale with black leather out there! I 
did a few calculations, and here's what I came up with:

(NOTE: BM=Black, Manual; BA=Black, Automatic; GM=Gray, Manual; 
GA=Gray, Automatic).

According to the DMC production chronology at: 
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinmix.jpg

the breakdown for total production was:

BM: 36%     BA: 21%     GM: 34%     GA: 8.2%


From a survey done of D's for sale _at_dml_ dmcnews.com, I got:

BM: 19.2%   BA: 17.5%   GM: 47.3%   GA: 15.7%

It seems people who own black leather 5 speed examples tend to keep 
them, while people who own gray leather 5 speed examples tend to sell 
them! 
Also, the black leather 5 speeds are generally more expensive than 
their gray leather counterparts. In fact I wish it was a gray leather 
example I was looking for, as there are some very good deals on offer 
at the moment, i.e. cars in very good condition, with updates done, 
for about $12,000.
Is it that black leather is the preferred option? Was there ever a 
poll done on this? Personally I think the black leather is far nicer 
looking than the gray leather...
And finally, if anyone knows of a 5 speed (black leather) for sale on 
or near the East Coast, please let me know.
There were 3477 of them built, someone must know where they went!
Thanks,
John.
PS Happy Birthday John DeLorean.







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 18:46:50 +0000
From: "Phil Peters" <philpeters_at_dml_postmaster.co.uk>
Subject: URL request

Hi list,
       Just wondering if anyone can help me find a URL since my address book has been wiped on my PC. A while back I found a webpage about the modification for the A/C unit lights. I can't find the site on the webring. Does anyone have the address to hand? The page featured the following text:
PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL PANEL BEZEL!!!  
 
 This modification will make it so your A/C panel lights do not stay on all the time. Once installed your panel lights will illuminate only when you turn on your headlights.  I have made this change in both my DeLorean's and have sold many wire set ups to list members.  There are no more of these plastic A/C bezels available. Don't let un-needed bulb heat melt yours before it's time...etc....etc.
    Any help would be great,
    Thanks,
          Phil Peters



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:17:25 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: Engine upgrade poll.

I left the Engine upgrade poll up for a little longer due to people being away for the holidays.

Now that everyone is back, please go an vote in this poll.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/surveys?id=830024




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:32:33 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: torsion bar removal

I have performed this procedure as well, and can confirm that it works 
exactly as David and Mark have described it. With patience and a small 
hammer you will eventually force the bar out of the bracket.  It isn't 
*too* scary.

But, as I hammered away, I wondered what would actually have happened if 
I had let the other end of the bar slip out of its socket. With the door 
fully open there is "only" about 3 splines worth of pretensioning on the 
bar, and that can be somewhat reduced by allowing the bracket to rotate 
part way down to the window glass. Moreover, by the time the bar made it 
out of the socket, the bracket would be fairly far away from the glass. 
I could imagine the whole thing being pretty much a non-event.  Of 
course, I could imagine other things, too...

Please note: I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS. Just wondering.

On Tuesday, January 8, 2002, at 11:18  AM, mcookwwi wrote:
<snip>
>
> We figured this was about the only way to accomplish this short of
> destroying the bar and having to buy a new one. (it was the passenger
> side). But who wants to deplete something we may need some day?

<snip>

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:23:12 -0800
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: URL request

<PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL PANEL BEZEL!!!  >

I went to google.com and entered [ DeLorean "PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL PANEL
BEZEL" ]

Only one page came up.

http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/wirepage.html

Gary (at) IN2TIME.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:33:15 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Front Suspension Mod's

From Toby,
> Are the photo's or other information regarding this lower control arm
> failure available?
and from Mike,
> For some reason someone had welded a small piece of flatstrap
> around the area of the balljoint on one side. I don't know why but it
scares
> me.  And that small lip that is on the bottom where the balljoint fits
through is
> totally gone.

I assume that the photo of the broken lower control arm has never been
digitized.  I know that the people most familiar with it are members of the
SEDOC and all live near Atlanta, Georgia.  Tom Long is listed in the
DeLorean Owner's Directory available through DMCNews.  Byrne Henninger is a
DeLorean vendor but does not use the internet.  E-mail me privately for his
address.  DMC Joe of DeLorean Services also lives in the area and might know
more.

Mike, I am suspicious that your lower control arm was modified due to a
problem similar to what Tom Long had on his.  The fracture happened on the
end that holds the bottom ball joint.  Welding additional metal to reinforce
this area is probably a good idea.  But the problem you are describing with
yours is a bit more bizarre.  There is no telling what a previous owner
might have had done.

Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:37:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: RE: URL request

After looking at that page I can't help but wonder if the author is
correct in stating that the #3 relay has "no other use" and can be
discarded.

This sounds like a great mod, but is it safe?

-Christian

On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, IN2TIME wrote:

> <PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL PANEL BEZEL!!!  >
>
> I went to google.com and entered [ DeLorean "PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL PANEL
> BEZEL" ]
>
> Only one page came up.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/wirepage.html
>
> Gary (at) IN2TIME.com
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 20:14:55 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: URL request For AC Panel Illumination

Don't have th URL but I do have the instructions.
In relay compartment, count to the third relay from the left on the top row 
and remove it. Jumper the relay sockets bottom connector slot (closest to 
you) to the connector slot to the right. 

Jim Witherspoon #6147



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 01:34:00 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: URL request

:
> <PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL PANEL BEZEL!!!  >


Always check the DMCNEWS page!!


http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/acpanellites.htm

Dave




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 18:18:40 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Car wont start... Starts now!!!


My car runs once again. I dont know what the problem is, but I think my fuel 
system may be gunked up. It took about 20 tries to start it, the last 5 of 
them being almost starts with a lot of sputtering, and the final one the car 
actually started. I ran the rest of the old gas out of it and refueled with 
Chevron Premium as well as added injection cleaner, then I ran my car up and 
down the highway there has been no further problems. I'm going to start 
using fuel system cleaner often, as well as get a tune up soon.

Adam 16683


_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 20:45:38 -0700
From: Craig Clarke <mister_c_at_dml_telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: black leather stats.



You think you've got it tough.
I was looking for : 1981 black leather, 5-speed, gas flap, side stripe, low miles.
And was looking for one in Canada with zero rust.  That was a hard find, but
I found one.
Keep searching and good luck

Craig





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 19:59:05 -0800
From: Mike Hirko <mikehirko_at_dml_tdn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: door strut (up or down?)

Check out the link that Mike Babb provided for the cover of
the July '77 Car & Driver magazine. It clearly shows the
struts. Want to bet that it came from the factory that way?

http://www.babbtechnology.com/mags/CarDriver/car_and_driver.htm

HOWEVER, the struts on my VIN 1387 are the opposite. Want to
bet that they came from the factory that way?

Mike Hirko



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 23:50:37 -0500
From: "John Galik" <j.galik_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: URL request

Christian

Did it to mine a few months ago...works great & havn't noticed anything else
not working.

John
----- Original Message -----
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:37 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] URL request


> After looking at that page I can't help but wonder if the author is
> correct in stating that the #3 relay has "no other use" and can be
> discarded.
>
> This sounds like a great mod, but is it safe?
>
> -Christian
>
> On Tue, 8 Jan 2002, IN2TIME wrote:
>
> > <PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL PANEL BEZEL!!!  >
> >
> > I went to google.com and entered [ DeLorean "PROTECT YOUR A/C CONTROL
PANEL
> > BEZEL" ]
> >
> > Only one page came up.
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/wirepage.html
> >
> > Gary (at) IN2TIME.com
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 00:42:06 -0500
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: Leather Treatment

Well … my seats are in need of some serious TLC!
 
They look nice appearance wise .. but are hard and brittle to the touch
.. stiff…. Has anyone got any miracle products? Or would refinishing the
seats still be the best thing to do?
 
As well .. on the backs of the seats it appears to be some sort of oily
finger prints (from a mechanic I would have to guess) .. I have tried
and tried to get these out .. but nothing seems to work….
 
Anyhow .. I trust in the list to help .. 
 
Open to suggestions!
 
 
 
 
p.s.
 
There was a leather treatment on the mailing list a while back … all I
remember was something about applying in the sun closing up the car to
create a “steam room” effect. 
 
Does anyone remember the name of this product and where  I can learn
more about it …
 
 
 
Thanks!
Kenneth
005548
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 00:42:48 EST
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: A thank you to the fine Senator

I wanted to take a few minutes to let the list know how helpful a fellow list 
member was to me. Having bought a Delorean from the west coast (I live in MD) 
i took a big risk buying the car and having  it shipped here. After getting 
the car it seemed to be in great shape. However, I wanted to get someone here 
in MD's opinion on the car. I was told by a list member to find Senatorpack 
here in MD who is president of the Maryland Delorean chapter. After several 
great phone calls Mike was willing to come over and spend the day going over 
the car and giving me some pointers.

After several hours of going over each part of the car, Mike and I headed to 
his favorite place, PepBoys, we picked up all the neccesary cleaning 
supplies, protectants and a few other misc parts. After giving me an 
education on the car we were nearing the end o f the inspection when mike 
first noticed the problem. He smelled the gas tank and told me I may have a 
problem. He was right. After remeoving spare tire and the fuel pump cover we 
discovered why i smelled fuel all the time. There was 2 inches of gas on my 
fuel pump which was now listing like the Titantic, submerged and a major 
hazard.

"I would not drive this car another foot" he calmly said..... 

We sat down and made a list of everyting i would need to redo my fuel system 
and then do a tune up. I ordered the parts and we began. For two days I 
watched as Mike would meticulously use liqiuid wrench to get bolts apart that 
had been stuck for twenty years. First the fuel pump was redone, complete 
with new hoses, then the gas tank was cleaned to the plastic......this next 
part I think needs to go down in Delorean lore. If anyone has disconeected 
the 2 fuel hoses you will notice the 2 metal pipes that disappear into the 
body of the car. each of the pipes has a metal nut that screws into you're 
replacement hose...well somehow i managed to push that nut up the hose and it 
disppeared into the frame of the car!!!! I almost died....after an hour of 
mike on his back, upside down like a contorshonist with my wifes compact 
mirror, a flashlite and a little grabber claw it seemed it was hopeless. He 
was about to give up and said we may need to drop half the bottom of this car 
from the frame to reach that screw.....Mike did not give up!!!! for another 
hour he tried every imaginable option, including, magnets, ESP, cussing, the 
middle finger and a few other Delorean explatives including some engineeering 
comments that can not be repeated here...after 2 hours he somehow able to 
convince that piece to slide back down saving my car from stting on blocks 
for the winter...

Over the next 2 weekends we basically redid the fuel/ ignition system. Mike 
did all of this for the love of the car. He basically gave up 3 of his 
weekends to help a fellow Delorean owner. His advice, help, time and 
enthusiam for this car is one of the reasons the Delorean should never die 
out. 

I could write another 5 pages of the little things he did to help me with the 
car but I just wanted to publicly thank him. The car is now at a local shop 
getting all the adjustments and settings set back to factory specs. There are 
many other list members I would like to thank but just wanted to tell Mike 
thank you for you're time and helping a new owner appreciate the car. I hope 
someday to pass on any knowledge and help another new owner live the dream. I 
really feel like part of the responsibilty of owning a Delroean is sharing 
what u know with everyone from list members to perfect strangers, because 
just like a company is jugded by the people it employs, the Delorean is now 
be judged by the people that drive them....

Again, a long overdue thank you to Senator Pack....Now Mike told me anyone 
else looking for free work should not hesitate to call a different list 
member....Anyone out there with a low mileage Delorean you want to donate to 
a worthy person Just call the senator... 

mike cohee
vin 2109 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 01:12:49 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure at the injectors?

Eric, Run some Berrymans B12 through the system or a tank of gas then come 
back and recheck the spray pattern. Unless you have some bad injectors, they 
all get gas at the same time and under the same pressure. Unless there is 
something blocking. You can also take an injector that isn't giving a good 
spray pattern and swap it out with a line that the injector is spraying good, 
and that way you can tell if there is still blockage in the slits of the 
control plunger tube or trash in the injector screen.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
    



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 08:36:28 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: AC-panellights modification (Was: URL request)

--- In dmcnews, Christian Williams wrote:
> After looking at that page I can't help but wonder
> if the author is correct in stating that the #3 relay
> has "no other use" and can be discarded.
> This sounds like a great mod, but is it safe?

Yes it is safe, and yes the relay has no other purpose.
If you look at the DeLorean Electric Diagram (available
from several websites) in grid G8/9 you'll see the relay
numbered 53 with the dimming-resistor #54 to its left 
and the AC-panellights above them.
If you are able to read such a schematic you will see
that this is the only purpose for the relay...

Good luck on modifying,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 08:46:47 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: door strut (up or down?)

--- In dmcnews, Mike Hirko wrote:
> Check out the link that Mike Babb provided for the cover of
> the July '77 Car & Driver magazine. It clearly shows the
> struts. Want to bet that it came from the factory that way?
[snip]
> HOWEVER, the struts on my VIN 1387 are the opposite.
> Want to bet that they came from the factory that way?

If you look a little better you can see the car featured 
on this cover obviously is one of the prototypes;
- the lights in the bumper are further outwards
- the mirrors seem to come from another type of car
- the profile of the doors is different 
- there are no locks/latches at the front of the doors
- there is no air intake under the bumper
these are just the easy to spot differences.
So in a way you could say it didn't even come from the factory!

I guess they just popped the struts on, later discovering
they had them on wrong and correcting this in the 
production cars you and I have...

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 00:12:42 -0600
From: Jim Reeve <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: AIM/AOL Chat List

Thank you everybody, as I have gotten quite a response from the AIM chat
idea I posted about.  And now to make it even better.  Working with Dave
Swingle, we have gotten a table set up in the DMCNEWS chat page listing
basic information for a few people.  A few more are currently updated,
but not uploaded to the page yet.

If you would like to add your name and screen name to this list, please
visit http://www.dmcnews.com/chat.html to see the format and email me
(Jim Reeve) to get your name added.  My email is on that page.  Most
fields are optional, with the exception of the AIM/AOL screen name and
give at least some sort of name so people know what to call you.

The three people listed at the top of the table, Me, Matt Olans, and
Aaron Posey are the most common people to initiate a chat session.  If
the night looks good, we will invite everyone else we see online that
night.  Everyone still has the capability of starting their own chat
session if they wish.

This is an excellent opportunity to meet other DeLorean owners and
enthusiasts, so I recommend everyone with an AIM or AOL ID to submit
your name.

I hope to chat with you all online soon!
-- 
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/