From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 863
Date: Friday, January 11, 2002 11:09 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

To search the archives or view files, log in at

There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: A thank you to the fine Senator

2. Leather treatment

3. Re: AC-panellight conversion (was URL request)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

4. Driving at night - WAS:SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS
From: "dmc6960" <>

From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

6. White Smoke
From: "Joshua Shain" <>

7. It happened one night. . .
From: Holler <>

8. Re: gear change
From: "Ed Garbade" <>

9. A Bit Off Topic
From: "Jack Stiefel" <>

From: "skipper landry" <>

11. Re: White Smoke
From: "Ed Garbade" <>

12. RE: Auto tranny governor
From: "Scott Mueller" <>

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:17:42 EST
Subject: Re: A thank you to the fine Senator

    Fuel over the pump is a bad thing!!!   The fuel hazards over the pump is 
a long story. Historically, DeLorean Motors was criticized by the federal 
government's NHTSA crash test of the DMC-12. The DMC-12 performed reasonably 
well _at_dml_35 mph barrier crash test, however the car leaked fuel into the 
interior as well as into the environment. ((Interia switch recall)) 
    The government uses a special dye mixed into the fuel systems of cars 
during a crash test. ((I gave this NHTSA test analysis to John Truscott of 
DeLorean Owners Association in 1995. The two of us discussed the crash 
worthiness of the DMC-12 & fuel leaks as well as fuel contamination. John and 
I spoke at great length about this to Chris Parnham at the 1997 Eurofest ))

    On VIN 2109 the pump cover & boot along with the main and return fuel 
lines were original and deteriorated. The pump was just laying in the tank 
opening, and huge amount of dirt, rust, water and other contaminants was 
evident inside and out of the tank. The smell of stale gas was overwhelming 
upon initial inspection.
     The engine timing & overall performance was WAY off as the previous 
butchers tried to keep the car running by cutting corners, poor workmanship 
and using the WRONG PARTS!  
    Instead of using the correct parts & maintained the car properly, the 
original owner cut corners and added more frustration to the mix for VIN 2109.
    The fuel distributor was rusted out, injectors were damaged, sparks plugs 
were fouled as well as the warm up regulator. Fuel filter had water and 
looked suspect. ((Someone on the DML checked this car out during the 
pre-purchase inspection. I must say that they really dropped the ball and 
overlooked the most common maladies on this car!))

    However, after some serious work Mike & I were able to get the car 
repaired correctly. The ease of it was having the correct expensive parts 
from DeLorean vendor(s) and DeLorean advice from Rob Grady, the car is safely 
back on the road.

    Your welcome Mike. I'm happy that your car is running well. I appreciate 
your sincere comments and welcome to the District Marque Club: DMC, an owners 
& enthusiasts association of historic, classic and exotic automobiles. 

Michael Pack
DMClub,  Founder & President

In a message dated 01/09/2002 9:03:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, writes:

<< Subj:     [DML] A thank you to the fine Senator
 Date:  01/09/2002 9:03:20 AM Eastern Standard Time
 I wanted to take a few minutes to let the list know how helpful a fellow 
 member was to me. Having bought a Delorean from the west coast (I live in 
 i took a big risk buying the car and having  it shipped here. After getting 
 the car it seemed to be in great shape. However, I wanted to get someone 
 in MD's opinion on the car. I was told by a list member to find Senatorpack 
 here in MD who is president of the Maryland Delorean chapter. After several 
 great phone calls Mike was willing to come over and spend the day going over 
 the car and giving me some pointers.
 After several hours of going over each part of the car, Mike and I headed to 
 his favorite place, PepBoys, we picked up all the neccesary cleaning 
 supplies, protectants and a few other misc parts. After giving me an 
 education on the car we were nearing the end o f the inspection when mike 
 first noticed the problem. He smelled the gas tank and told me I may have a 
 problem. He was right. After remeoving spare tire and the fuel pump cover we 
 discovered why i smelled fuel all the time. There was 2 inches of gas on my 
 fuel pump which was now listing like the Titantic, submerged and a major 
 "I would not drive this car another foot" he calmly said..... 
 We sat down and made a list of everyting i would need to redo my fuel system 
 and then do a tune up. I ordered the parts and we began. For two days I 
 watched as Mike would meticulously use liqiuid wrench to get bolts apart 
 had been stuck for twenty years. First the fuel pump was redone, complete 
 with new hoses, then the gas tank was cleaned to the plastic......this next 
 part I think needs to go down in Delorean lore. If anyone has disconeected 
 the 2 fuel hoses you will notice the 2 metal pipes that disappear into the 
 body of the car. each of the pipes has a metal nut that screws into you're 
 replacement hose...well somehow i managed to push that nut up the hose and 
 disppeared into the frame of the car!!!! I almost died....after an hour of 
 mike on his back, upside down like a contorshonist with my wifes compact 
 mirror, a flashlite and a little grabber claw it seemed it was hopeless. He 
 was about to give up and said we may need to drop half the bottom of this 
 from the frame to reach that screw.....Mike did not give up!!!! for another 
 hour he tried every imaginable option, including, magnets, ESP, cussing, the 
 middle finger and a few other Delorean explatives including some 
 comments that can not be repeated here...after 2 hours he somehow able to 
 convince that piece to slide back down saving my car from stting on blocks 
 for the winter...
 Over the next 2 weekends we basically redid the fuel/ ignition system. Mike 
 did all of this for the love of the car. He basically gave up 3 of his 
 weekends to help a fellow Delorean owner. His advice, help, time and 
 enthusiam for this car is one of the reasons the Delorean should never die 
 I could write another 5 pages of the little things he did to help me with 
 car but I just wanted to publicly thank him. The car is now at a local shop 
 getting all the adjustments and settings set back to factory specs. There 
 many other list members I would like to thank but just wanted to tell Mike 
 thank you for you're time and helping a new owner appreciate the car. I hope 
 someday to pass on any knowledge and help another new owner live the dream. 
 really feel like part of the responsibilty of owning a Delroean is sharing 
 what u know with everyone from list members to perfect strangers, because 
 just like a company is jugded by the people it employs, the Delorean is now 
 be judged by the people that drive them....
 Again, a long overdue thank you to Senator Pack....Now Mike told me anyone 
 else looking for free work should not hesitate to call a different list 
 member....Anyone out there with a low mileage Delorean you want to donate to 
 a worthy person Just call the senator... 
 mike cohee
 vin 2109 


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:50:57 EST
Subject: Leather treatment

    I'm very picky about my interior and leather seats. I use the Leatherique 
as well as products from Griots Garage. Both are expensive, however the 
products are well worth it. I use it in the cars, my chairs at my office and 
my leather sofa. Rolls Royce uses Leatherique as well as other exotic marques 
in our local club. The owners have abandoned LEXOL use in their automobiles. 
LEXOL products cannot compare to the products above, however many have used 
the LEXOL brand perviously.
    The difference is how the dye in leather or color is applied to the cars 
leather surfaces. It is either sprayed on or a soaked in dye.  The grade of 
Bridge of Weir leather in a NEW DeLorean is a 5-6 on the 10 scale. The dye is 
spayed on, as in the case of many European leathers, however many Asian 
Leather companies are using this method.

    I recommended Leatherique to Michael Babb about 3-4 years ago when he was 
in Colorado. Mike can you comment about leatherique?

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 04:17:24 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: AC-panellight conversion (was URL request)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Having a jumper instead of a relay 
> also allowed me to hook up a lightreminder-buzzer, 
> so I don't forget to switch them off when I turn off the ignition...

While the lights/ignition buzzer isn't really my style, I would love 
to see a mod with a relay & switch so that I couln't start the car 
unless the clutch pedal was pushed in. Any takers?

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 05:07:43 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <>
Subject: Driving at night - WAS:SUPER WHITE HEADLIGHTS

Where did you pull this figure from Bob?  I drive my DeLorean all the 
time at night (except when MN has snow which we almost dont right 
now).  I personally dont see night-day as a direct cause for driving 
or not driving a DeLorean.  If instrument lighting is an issue for 
anybody, dont fret!  A backlit cluster is one its way! (plus possibly 
a few other goodies to go along with it.)

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> I think they are a great idea.  However, very few of us drive our D 
at night.
> Bob


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 04:54:46 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

Actaully, my car is a "Nightly Driver". It ends up resulting from my 
odd working hours and sleeping habits. In all honestly, my D see's 
more moonlight than it does daylight.

I too though about the capsule bulb conversion. It is tempting, but 
the wiring is what concerns me. Rather than a conversion, start 
simple with a set of brighter and/or bluer bulbs to highlight signs 
and obsticals better at night. You may be surprised by what a new set 
of bulbs by themselves can do. Try that before you go into an 
involved conversion.

vin 6585 "X"

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> I think they are a great idea.  However, very few of us drive our D 
at night.
> Bob


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 23:01:37 -0800
From: "Joshua Shain" <>
Subject: White Smoke

I have noticed small amounts of white smoke emerging from the engine 
compartment of my DeLorean on occassion. It doesn't do it all the time, and 
I cannot figure out what the catalyst might be, but obviously it's rather 
nerveracking. There is often a minor burning scent after driving it, but 
I've noticed the smell on many other cars after they have been driven (not 
just DeLoreans). Other than that, she runs fine.
She's a 1983 Five-Speed. Any thoughts?


Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device:


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:37:36 -0800
From: Holler <>
Subject: It happened one night. . .

The other night, around 3am,  I awoke to see an eerie bright light creeping through the window and across the bedroom walls at a weird angle I’d never
seen before.  It couldn’t have been headlights, because our street doesn’t run that direction!
I started to worry, because I had parked my DeLorean in the front driveway that evening, and for once, did not cover it.  ( I know, shame on me.)
Was there a prowler outside?  Maybe someone trying to steal the car?  Then I heard an engine idling and when I looked out, I discovered the source.
It was a cop in his patrol car using his search light to get a good loooong look at my ‘D’!

Oliver Holler (novice new owner)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:32:40 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <>
Subject: Re: gear change

I had a similar problem in which my linkage had "drifted" such that I 
couldn't get it into 5th gear.  My interpretation is there are basically 2 

When you look under the car, the end of the cross gate cable (part # 101363) 
connects to cross gate lever (part # 106652) on the transmission (this is a 
little forward of the rear wheels under the center of the car).  You can 
adjust the length of the cable by screwing in/out the end of this cable 
(sorry I forget what direction the shifter moves when lengthening/shortening 
the cable but believe that it is mentioned in the shop manual).  I suggest 
(if you use this method) you move it no more than half a turn before you 
check the alignment (make sure it is secure because you don't want the end 
of the cable just hanging on by a couple threads).

The second option (and probably best) is to change the cable position by 
adjusting it at the cross gate mounting bracket (part # 106653).  This has 
the same effect as changing the cable length since the cable moves relative 
to the shifter assemble.  This involves loosening the nuts on either side of 
the bracket and sliding the cable in the appropriate direction to meet your 
alignment needs.  This bracket is just slightly forward of the transmission 
under the center of the car.

The process is very simple and when I did it on my car it took more time to 
get the car off the ground than to adjust the cable.

Finally, and at the risk of being redundant, the process of shifting into 
reverse involves moving the shift lever to the far left, lifting the lever 
up (about 1/4 inch), and then moving the shifting lever a little farther to 
the left before putting it into gear.  The process of lifting the lever 
should be very easy (no more than a couple pounds effort) to accomplish.

Experience on my vehicle was that the lever wouldn't lift.  I removed the 
gear lever gaiter (aka the leather cover/boot Part # 100688) and examined 
the selector assembly to see how it worked (thanks for the advice DMC Joe).  
You can see a pin on the shift lever move through a gate and will notice 
that there is a step up on the left hand side.  This is why you have to lift 
the shifter to be able to move it to the reverse gate.  My shifter had 
rusted such that it could not move up.  So with a little penetrating oil and 
some convincers (i.e. a hammer and a big pair of pliers), I broke it loose 
and it now works fine.  In fact it is amazing how easy it lifts now.

All that said, I imagine your gate alignment is more critical than mine due 
to its design.  As such the alignment process will be a little more tedious. 
  Just remember, small movements, be careful, and make sure your care is 
well supported while you work under it.

Let me know if this helps (would be a boost to my ego to know I actually 
answered a question vs. asked).


>From: "Paul Salsbury" <>
>To: <>, <>
>Subject: [DML] gear change
>Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:15:27 -0000
>I have just replaced the Shifter boot on my 5 speed. The new one has the 
>metal frame around the bottom as opposed to the plastic one.
>The problem I now have is I have difficulty getting it into reverse, as I 
>can't get the gear stick over to the left enough with out pulling Sharpe 
>into the side of the plate the boot sits in.

Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:33:42 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Jack Stiefel" <>
Subject: A Bit Off Topic

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Jack, you are very brave...
Please respond directly to Jack.

I am going out on a limb here by being a bit off topic, but I am in need of
some help.  My wife and I are expecting our first child in May of this year
and we are searching for a name... a middle name to be exact. 

We have chosen Isabelle as a first name and of course Stiefel (pronounced
Stee-Fel) as the last name, but are stumped on the middle.

We are asking all our friends to give us a hand.  This group of friends
being the largest, most varied, cross cultural, and cross country I know, I
now ask for your help.

Jack & Virginia Stiefel
1981 DeLorean Vin 03461 
1988 Jaguar XJ-SC V-12 
1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
2001 PT Cruiser
2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4
Visit our home page at:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:56:04 -0600
From: "skipper landry" <>

i guess im an oddball. i drive my D mostly at night. and on Sat nights fron
9:00pm to 4am.

skipper landry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brandys" <>
To: <>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 11:44 AM

> I think they are a great idea.  However, very few of us drive our D at
> Bob
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:26:29 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <>
Subject: Re: White Smoke

Can't see how this would be your problem but had a friend with a similar 
issue (on an Ameriacn truck) one time.  Turned out to be brake fluid but I 
don't recall the specifics of how/where it was being burned.


>From: "Joshua Shain" <>
>I have noticed small amounts of white smoke emerging from the engine
>compartment of my DeLorean on occassion. It doesn't do it all the time,

Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger:


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:06:04 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <>
Subject: RE: Auto tranny governor

Duke and one of his Electronic buddies made a wiring harness so the computer
gov. could be remote mounted in the cabin.  I do not much more than that.

Duke, If you are lurking about in the shadows, how about filling in the list
on your modified gov.

Scott Mueller

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Coe []
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Auto tranny governor

> Someone on this message list, a while back, posted that pjgrady
> was offering an improved version of the autotranny governor, but I just
> called them and they said they never offered such a thing.

That was me who posted that.  When I bought mine, Rob offered me two
versions of the computer governor.  One cost a few dollars more (I think it
was around 3 or 4 dollars more, but compared to the total cost of around
$400, it was nickels & dimes.)  I shouldn't say that one version was better
than the other version.  I'm not really sure now what the differences were.
They might have been made by different companies or had slightly different
styles.  That happened more than a year ago, so maybe PJ Grady only has one
version now.

I am curious to know what is different inside the new computers -- if it is
a different design completely or just the original circuit board with better
capacitors.  I didn't want to open mine to find out.  If you repair your
original computer then you will know what you have.  The obvious is to
replace the two capacitors and add some shunting diodes.  But there are
other things that can go wrong, too such as a switch inside that can get
dirty contacts.  If you don't feel up to the job, I know there are people on
the DML who would do it for you.  Or just get one from a vendor like I did.

Walt    Tampa, FL

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

To search the archives or view files, log in at

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to