From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 864
Date: Saturday, January 12, 2002 10:25 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: It happened one night. . .
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

2. Engine Removal
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Fuel pressure at the injectors?
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

4. Got my clock working
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

5. RE: Engine Removal
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: White Smoke
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Engine Removal
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Engine Removal
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

9. RE: Engine Removal
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

10. Re: Engine Removal
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: A thank you to the fine Senator
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

12. Re: Auto tranny gov & shift solenoids
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. wiring advice for Xenarc HID
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

14. RE: Parking brake handle disconnected
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

15. Re: Parking brake handle disconnected...
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

16. Re: White Smoke
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

17. Re: It happened one night. . .
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

18. Re: Re: Fuel pressure at the injectors?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Engine Removal
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

20. Re: Engine Removal
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Re: White Smoke
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

22. DeLorean Accountants AA
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

23. Advice needed: Unfortunate occurrance
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: A Bit Off Topic
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

25. Re: Auto tranny gov & shift solenoids
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:29:59 EST
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Re: It happened one night. . .

Funny...I had a cop follow me once to look at my D.  Never pulled me over or anything cause I was too near by house, but if I would have kept driving he probably would have. Seemed like he had nothing better to do.  I wonder if drivers of other types of classic/exotic cars get that kind of attention.

Richard



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:34:16 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Engine Removal

In case you have been following my previous posts, it has become obvious to 
me that I need to replace my water pump.  In addition to that it appears I 
need to check the transmision for a possible clutch replacement and as a 
minimum replace the following items: valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, 
engine mounts, various rubber hoses, heat stove, etc...

I was discussing this with a friend and he suggested that as my list seems 
to be growing rapidly it may be worth considering the removal of the engine 
and transmission.  This would make the removal, replacement, cleaning, and 
painting the various components easier (engine bay needs work also).

With all that in mind I searched dmcnews site and the archives to try and 
locate any reference material re: removal of the engine and transmission.  
Did find some pictures but this basically showed a removed engine and not 
the process (as well as no instructions).

In order to make a more informed decision, I am looking for:
- Instructions on how to accomplish this.
- Advice on how to proceed.
- Consepts/thoughts on how difficult this would be (I have a hoist).
- A kick in the head.

Thanks,
Ed Garbade
10541


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Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 18:09:43 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pressure at the injectors?

Guys,
Thanks for all of the advice.  BTW: I have never taken apart the fuel 
distributor - nor do I have any plans to - I understand it will most 
likely never go back together and work. So I have never seen 
these "shims" you're referring to (I guess I hope I never do!)

I did, however, tweak the adjustment screws for each fuel line (on 
the distributor). I figured I had little to lose. I did manage to get 
all of the injectors to spray at about the same time under nearly all 
conditions. (an Improvement from before.) I haven't reinstalled the 
injectors to see if it actually makes a difference in running.

The main fuel pressure is about 70PSI. I think thats borderline 
normal to low. Anybody have a comment?  Could anyone tell me which 
way the System pressure regulator works? What I mean is: do you add a 
shim on the system pressure assembly to increase pressure or decrease 
it? I am speaking of the pressure regulator assembly inside of the 
fuel distributor housing. The assembly that allows excess fuel to 
return to the tank.

Eric
Dunedin, FL
VIN # 5557




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> In a message dated 1/9/02 12:14:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Whalt_at_dml_a... 
> writes:
> 
> << > I cannot figure out why, with minimal air-plate
>  > deflection, not all of the injectors fire...but deflecting the 
plate
>  > further they all fire equally.
>  >
>  > Bad Injectors?  Faulty Fuel Dist.?
>   >>
> Eric,
> I saw John Hurvey's post about your question. John  has access to 
rebuilt 
> distributors and in the event that the supply of good cores become 
scarce, he 
> can help you get a functionally equivalent distributor to get you 
back on the 
> road. Looks like you've gotten a good deal of valuable information 
about your 
> problem. In any case, if at all possible avoid  disassembling your 
> distributor. Have it rebuilt by a qualified shop only. Once you 
open it up 
> move the shims you're in trouble and there is no way that I've 
found for the 
> average owner to be able to seal it back up once it comes apart. 
There is no 
> gasket separating the upper and lower halves and it seems to use a 
special 
> sealant and the stainless steel diaphgram only . Johns web site is 
at 
> http://www.specialtauto.com.
> 
> Jim Vin 6147




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 18:29:32 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Got my clock working

For those folks argueably lucky enough to have the factory digital 
clock in their center console (you know the one, right next to your 
dimmer knob) - I finally got mine to work.

I decided to remove this eternally black display and take it apart.
Wow, what a crummy design. What I found was the two "adjustment" pins 
on the front are really just small pressure-sensitive buttons (like 
you'd expect). The problem is they are backed by a single piece of 
stiff foil that when pressed, makes contact with the PCB. This foil 
can easily be fatigued causing it not to "bounce back".

As a result, the foil just shorts to the board and blanks the display.

I fixed mine by removing the "foil" and replacing it with a piece of 
tin (made from an old soda can - cut to size).  By the time you're 
done cutting this tiny piece, you may have wished you used a beer 
can - and drank the beer before you started!

Tack solder it back to the PCB and VIOLA! A nice bright green - 
terrifically 80's dated, display. You'll love it. 

If anybody wants a little more detail, just email me directly...I'll 
help you as best I can.


Eric
Dunedin, FL 
VIN #5557
ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com






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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:46:27 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: Engine Removal

ED,
There are a couple of good Delorean Manuals that are available from most
Delorean Parts and Service vendors.
If you do not have them, they are a great investment.

Scott Mueller
002981

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Garbade [mailto:edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 11:34 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: [DML] Engine Removal


In case you have been following my previous posts, it has become obvious to
me that I need to replace my water pump.  In addition to that it appears I
need to check the transmision for a possible clutch replacement and as a
minimum replace the following items: valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets,
engine mounts, various rubber hoses, heat stove, etc...

I was discussing this with a friend and he suggested that as my list seems
to be growing rapidly it may be worth considering the removal of the engine
and transmission.  This would make the removal, replacement, cleaning, and
painting the various components easier (engine bay needs work also).

With all that in mind I searched dmcnews site and the archives to try and
locate any reference material re: removal of the engine and transmission.
Did find some pictures but this basically showed a removed engine and not
the process (as well as no instructions).

In order to make a more informed decision, I am looking for:
- Instructions on how to accomplish this.
- Advice on how to proceed.
- Consepts/thoughts on how difficult this would be (I have a hoist).
- A kick in the head.

Thanks,
Ed Garbade
10541


_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:51:34 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: White Smoke

Carefully watch the fluid levels. If you are adding any (like brake, 
clutch, or COOLANT!) then you already know what's burning. My guess is 
coolant as coolant leaks are very common on a 20 year old car! There 
are several sources of leaks on top of tthe motor and you will never 
see a drop on the ground as it evaporates from the heat of the motor 
(that's why the smell). Pressure test to 15 psi for 15 min. 
Anti-freeze has a "sweet" smell to it as opposed to oils which have a 
"burnt" smell. Maybe you ran over a plastic bag and some of it is 
still melting on the exhaust pipes and muffler. Don't laugh, it has 
happened to me! Take a look under the car, maybe you have the remnants 
of some critter that crawled into somewhere warm and expired.(I don't 
really think so as they don't give off white smoke but I have seen 
some strange things.)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Joshua Shain" <JoshyBallgame_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> I have noticed small amounts of white smoke emerging from the engine 
> compartment of my DeLorean on occassion. It doesn't do it all the 
time, and 
> I cannot figure out what the catalyst might be, but obviously it's 
rather 
> nerveracking. There is often a minor burning scent after driving it, 
but 
> I've noticed the smell on many other cars after they have been 
driven (not 
> just DeLoreans). Other than that, she runs fine.
> She's a 1983 Five-Speed. Any thoughts?
> 
> -Joshua
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: 
http://mobile.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:57:55 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Removal

All of what you are planning to do can be done without removing the 
engine. It will just take more time and become a much bigger job. A 
shop might consider it because they have all of the tools but for an 
individual it makes more sense to do these things in several steps. I 
would only pull the motor if you had to go inside it and unless you 
cooked it or it is high mileage there is no need for that.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> In case you have been following my previous posts, it has become 
obvious to 
> me that I need to replace my water pump.  In addition to that it 
appears I 
> need to check the transmision for a possible clutch replacement and 
as a 
> minimum replace the following items: valve cover gaskets, oil pan 
gaskets, 
> engine mounts, various rubber hoses, heat stove, etc...
> 
> I was discussing this with a friend and he suggested that as my list 
seems 
> to be growing rapidly it may be worth considering the removal of the 
engine 
> and transmission.  This would make the removal, replacement, 
cleaning, and 
> painting the various components easier (engine bay needs work also).
> 
> With all that in mind I searched dmcnews site and the archives to 
try and 
> locate any reference material re: removal of the engine and 
transmission.  
> Did find some pictures but this basically showed a removed engine 
and not 
> the process (as well as no instructions).
> 
> In order to make a more informed decision, I am looking for:
> - Instructions on how to accomplish this.
> - Advice on how to proceed.
> - Consepts/thoughts on how difficult this would be (I have a hoist).
> - A kick in the head.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ed Garbade
> 10541
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
> http://www.hotmail.com




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:33:47 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Removal

It is not really necessary to remove the engine to perform the 
maintenance you mention. That being said....

If you have the time and energy, do it. A couple of winters ago I 
underwent almost the same work. After I had put the trans back in, I 
took the exhaust off to fix the heat shield and realized that I was 
about 3 hose connections and two engine mount bolts from the same 
work as pulling the engine. I still regret not doing it. It would 
have made a lot of the work much easier, and I could have done a much 
nicer clean-up/paint-up job. That is probably the best justification 
for it, and if you are not in a hurry and really want to get in there 
it's the best way to go. If this is just a mission to fix what needs 
fixin' and get back on the road, it's overkill. This is partially the 
difference between car repair and car restoration. 

I know of one guy in the midwest club who has done this enough times 
that he considers pulling the engine a 2-3 hour job. 

Instructions are in the manual, basically you unhook the shift and 
fuel linkages, axles, trans and engine mounts, clutch hydraulics, a 
couple of fuel hoses, cooling hoses, vacuum hoses, electrical 
connections, exhaust system at the converter, take off the rear 
louver, hood, facia and away you go.

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I was discussing this with a friend and he suggested that as my 
list seems 
> to be growing rapidly it may be worth considering the removal of 
the engine 
> and transmission.  This would make the removal, replacement, 
cleaning, and 
> painting the various components easier (engine bay needs work also).
> 




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:46:24 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Engine Removal

I recently did this.  It was pretty straight forward.  Took me about 4 hours by myself.

Nothing special about the removing the DMC engine VS any other car, other than you need to remove the rear fascia.  Also, not very complicated.


Disconnect all the stuff between the engine/trans assembly and the rest of the car (Throttle cable, shift linkage, drive shafts, fuel lines, and so on..), and lift with hoist!  


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Garbade [mailto:edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 12:34 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com
Subject: [DML] Engine Removal

<SNIP>

With all that in mind I searched dmcnews site and the archives to try and 
locate any reference material re: removal of the engine and transmission.  
Did find some pictures but this basically showed a removed engine and not 
the process (as well as no instructions).

<SNIP>





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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 18:07:33 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Removal

Ed,

Before you decide to replace your oil pan gasket, make real sure that it is
leaking.  Almost always on these cars what looks like a leaky oil pan is
really the low oil pressure switch.  It is above the pan on the left side of
the engine, and when it leaks, it looks like it is coming from the pan.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 18:09:18 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: A thank you to the fine Senator

You said: "I've never heard of a DeLorean's gas tank exploding due to gas
being trapped above the fuel pump,....."

I too have never heard of this happening but keep in mind that gas fumes +
spark= EXPLOSION!

Whenever we diagnose this common problem we ALWAYS instruct the owner not to
drive the car until this situation is corrected.

DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Williams" <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 12:30 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] A thank you to the fine Senator


> *****  Moderator's Note  *****
> Regardless of the likelihood of a spark from the fuel pump,
> a leaking fuel system is ALWAYS a hazard.
> *****
>
> Can the wires that connect to the fuel pump produce a spark? I really do
> need to know how serious this is since the DeLorean is my daily car. I've
> never heard of a DeLorean's gas tank exploding due to gas being trapped
> above the fuel pump, so I'm guessing that this is just a case of something
> that looks scary.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -Christian
>





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:15:34 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Auto tranny gov & shift solenoids


I'd like to replace the shift solenoids while I am at it. Does anyone know 
where I can order these? If they are on the vendor websites, I couldnt find 
them.

Thanks, Adam

>From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Auto tranny governor
>Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:08:33 EST
>
>Adam, Normally the governors can be upgraded with a few new parts. I can 
>add
>them and you can try it out.
>John hervey
>http://www.specialtauto.com/
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 19:31:43 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: wiring advice for Xenarc HID

I need some advice from some electrical savvy people in order to install
these new headlights.  Each Xenarc HID ballast is fused at 20A with a #14
wire.  They need to connect together in front of the car and connect to
unswitched vehicle power.  This raises a few questions:

1) What size wire should I use?  I'm feeding two circuits fused at 20A each
off of this wire.  I presume that it should be rated at 40A and be a #10
wire.  Is this the correct size?  Maximum current shouldn't exceed 15A per
side which would total a 30A load.  This is a worse case scenario given low
battery voltage.

2) Would it be a bad idea to use THHN stranded wiring intended for use in
industrial wiring?  Its a little stiffer than typical automotive wire, but
the sheath is more oil and gasoline resistant.

3) Where should I run this wire into the passenger compartment from?  It
looks like the main wiring loom runs through the driver's side foot well on
the upper left corner.  Is this where I should run it through, or is there a
better spot?  Once under the dash, I'll run it with the other wires in the
console and then to the relay compartment.

4) Where should I connect this wire in the relay compartment?  The
instructions specify "unswitched vehicle power", and it would probably be
good not to put any extra current through the main power relay anyway.  I
don't want to connect directly to the battery.  I have seen jobs like that
done on other cars, and the leaking battery acid is always a problem to keep
a good connection.  I also don't want the additional wiring to get in the
way of trying to remove the engine at a future date.

5) Good engineering practices require the supply wire to be fused close to
the power source.  Does anyone have any suggestions on what to use?  I'm
thinking maybe a 40A breaker like what is used on the cooling fan circuit.
Or should I use a fuse instead?  Is 40A too much?  Maybe 35A?  What do you
think?

When it's all done, I'll put photos on a web site for others who want to
follow my footsteps.  Has anyone wired a DeLorean for these before?  Am I
the first?

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:54:47 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: Parking brake handle disconnected

Daniel - Not sure if you have to remove the seat, but why not - its only 4
bolts (5 if you take the seat belt anchor out) and with it out you have a
lot more room to work.  Its not too unusual for the cables to come out of
the handle, and may be due to them needing to be lubricated or replaced.  If
you need new ones, I have about 70 in stock.
-- 
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680
www.delorean-parts.com




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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:55:59 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Parking brake handle disconnected...

Daniel,
The brake handle attaches through the floor. Remove the four(?) nuts from
under the car and the whole assembly lifts right up. There should also be a
wire attached to it for the emergency brake light on the dash. By the way
the seat has only four nuts holding it in place so it is very easy to
remove, makes working on the car easier sometimes when you take the seats
out. Just remove the four nuts under the floor.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "dmc24000" <delorean_at_dml_ramblerman.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: [DML] Parking brake handle disconnected...


> I just bought my first DeLorean. It has only 24,000 miles on it. It
> has always been garaged and is in excellent condition. However, the
> two parking brake cables that connect to the parking brake handle
> inside are disconnected. I've fixed this type of problem on other cars
> before, but when I started to dig into this problem it looks like I
> have to take out the driver's seat to remove the bracket to reconnect
> the two cables. IS THIS RIGHT. It seems a bit excessive, but I can't
> see any other way to fish the cables back on to that bracket with the
> two slotted holes. Also, I am left to wonder why it would have come
> off in the first place. The cables and the crimped-on cable ends are
> intact, and the bracket holes don't look oversized. Any help would
> be appreciated. Thanks...
>
> Daniel (Proud Owner)
> VIN 10920
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 02:48:59 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: White Smoke

Sounds like you may have a bad rocker cover gasket. Happens on my car 
too. The oil will slowly drip down, and burn on the catalytic 
convertor. Take a paper towel, or an old shop rag and wipe the side 
of the engine, below the valvetrain. Chances are you'll find oil on 
the side.

This probably won't be a mess on your garage floor, but it can weaken 
the heat shield on the cat, and hurt lubrication on the engine 
somewhat. Less oil = less dilution of dirt & quicker viscosity 
breakdown.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Joshua Shain" <JoshyBallgame_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> I have noticed small amounts of white smoke emerging from the 
engine 
> compartment of my DeLorean on occassion. It doesn't do it all the 
time, and 
> I cannot figure out what the catalyst might be, but obviously it's 
rather 
> nerveracking. There is often a minor burning scent after driving 
it, but 
> I've noticed the smell on many other cars after they have been 
driven (not 
> just DeLoreans). Other than that, she runs fine.
> She's a 1983 Five-Speed. Any thoughts?
> 
> -Joshua
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 02:58:13 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: It happened one night. . .

Yup. I was once driving down the highway, and there was a Doge Viper 
a couple of lanes over. No racing, just crusing along. 2 State 
Troopers got on, and literally tailgated both of us for a couple of 
miles. After that, they just pulled off the freeway. Other then maybe 
running our plates, I still don't know what the point was...

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., RJRavalli_at_dml_A... wrote:
> Funny...I had a cop follow me once to look at my D.  Never pulled 
me over or anything cause I was too near by house, but if I would 
have kept driving he probably would have. Seemed like he had nothing 
better to do.  I wonder if drivers of other types of classic/exotic 
cars get that kind of attention.
> 
> Richard




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:41:33 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel pressure at the injectors?

Eric, How did you tweek each cylinder injector from the distributor. The 
Porsche fuel distributor is adjustable from the out side but the De lorean 
uses shims on the inside.
John hervey



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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 03:44:02 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Removal

Ed,
I have removed the engine/tranny from my D and put it back in. A few 
tips:

1. Get a Delorean service manual AND parts manual. The parts manual 
will show all the parts in an exploded view so that you can see how 
it goes together/comes off.
2. Take LOTS of pictures...you will be surprised how handy pictures 
are when you forgot where a piece goes or how it goes on.
3. Remove the Sunshade and the engine bay cover (obvious).
4. Remove the rear fascia....careful of all the wires that go 
through there.
5. Remove the engine and tranny as one unit...do not separate them. 
It will be easier this way.
6. Label all wires and hoses so you know where they go afterwards.
7. When using the Hoist, there is a special tool that goes in-
between the chains of the hoist and the engine block. It has a 
handle attached to a lead screw that allows you to pitch the engine. 
I forgot the name of it but it is very handy. you will need to 
remove the engine on an angle and this will allow you to do it 
safely and easily.
8. While the engine is out and you seperate the tranny/engine, 
replace the rear main seal. It's sometimes known to leak from age so 
while you have it all apart....wouldn't hurt to change it.

These are some basic tips. If you want more advice or pictures 
(which I have) let me know.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> In case you have been following my previous posts, it has become 
obvious to 
> me that I need to replace my water pump.  In addition to that it 
appears I 
> need to check the transmision for a possible clutch replacement 
and as a 
> minimum replace the following items: valve cover gaskets, oil pan 
gaskets, 
> engine mounts, various rubber hoses, heat stove, etc...
> 
> I was discussing this with a friend and he suggested that as my 
list seems 
> to be growing rapidly it may be worth considering the removal of 
the engine 
> and transmission.  This would make the removal, replacement, 
cleaning, and 
> painting the various components easier (engine bay needs work 
also).
> 
> With all that in mind I searched dmcnews site and the archives to 
try and 
> locate any reference material re: removal of the engine and 
transmission.  
> Did find some pictures but this basically showed a removed engine 
and not 
> the process (as well as no instructions).
> 
> In order to make a more informed decision, I am looking for:
> - Instructions on how to accomplish this.
> - Advice on how to proceed.
> - Consepts/thoughts on how difficult this would be (I have a 
hoist).
> - A kick in the head.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ed Garbade
> 10541
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
> http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:46:48 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Removal

Ed, The water pump and all that goes with it can be done easy enough from the 
top without removing the engine. Dave may elaborate more on the transmission 
removal VS complete removal. I replaced my clutch about 6 months ago, but 
didn't remove the engine. A rack is great, from the ground is more 
troublesome.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/ 



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 23:24:42 EST
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: White Smoke


    If the white smoke is coming from the Cat area, check the condition of 
the otterstat seal on the left hand coolant pipe in the boot.
    In addition, there is a coolant drain plug and copper seal on the left 
hand side of the engine. This could have come loose, as mine did. You can 
tighten the plug with the same 3/8 drive utilized during oil plug removal for 
oil & filter changes.
    Additionally, remember to pressure test your coolant system, and bleed 
ALL air from the coolant system after servicing. 

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 23:38:25 EST
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: DeLorean Accountants AA



DML,

    Has anyone else been following the Financial Times recently? Did you 
notice how Arthur Anderson was connected with Enron and DeLorean Motor? Both 
companies were audited by Arthur Anderson the once prestigious consultancy 
firm. During each companies demise, allegations of fraud, off shore secret 
bank accounts, and executive misappropriations contributed to defrauding of 
investors and eventually bankruptcy...ouch!
    



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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 05:17:23 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Advice needed: Unfortunate occurrance

Sadly, #1506 hit a deer tonight.  Headed westbound on I-74, between 
Indianapolis and Urbana-Champaign, a deer struck my D while I was 
going about 65.  I was in the right hand lane, and it ran across from 
the median.  If you're saying "wow, that's unlucky!" then you don't 
know me very well.

Fortunately, there isn't as much damage as I originally feared.  The 
front fascia is in bad shape, as well as the headlights and housings 
on the driver's side.  The front driver's side fender has been 
whacked out of shape a little bit, the windshield is smashed, the 
hood is bent slightly in front near the fascia on the left side, and 
the driver's side mirror was ripped clean off.  The front grill is 
gone, too.

I didn't immediately see any other problems, other than the fact that 
the car wouldn't start up again.  The engine's in pretty good shape, 
the electrical systems seem ok, and it was trying to turn over...

I have some questions, since a lot of people who read this list have 
probably had similar encounters in the past (although probably not 
with their Delorean):

1.  Should I get a lawyer?  I have progressive insurance, and my car 
is insured for a large amount.  They seem pretty helpful.  However, 
they *are* an insurance company...  I have a clean driving record 
(except for a speeding ticket in Montana in '97 -- stupid 
libertarians!!), and I still pay out the wazoo for insurance.  It's 
time for them to finally pay up.

2.  How do I go about making sure I get an accurate estimate for 
repairs, and make sure that the insurance company pays the WHOLE bill?

3.  Who should I get to do the work?  Is this even an option for me, 
or is the insurance company, in their infinite wisdom, going to try 
to set me up somewhere?  Should I have the car sent all the way to 
someplace like Houston?

4.  Anyone out there have a foggy idea how much a fix like this would 
cost?

5.  What other questions should I be asking?

Thanks in advance for your help.  Hopefully, 1506 will be an up-and-
running daily driver once again within a month...

Aaron





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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 09:42:54 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: A Bit Off Topic

Moderator-- you may want to include just this one-- it is a funny story that
does pertain to the car. Sort of.

My parents started something with me-- taking the first name of the same-sex
parent and making it the middle name of the child.
I followed that new tradition with my firstborn; my son is Christopher
Kevin...
But when it came to my daughter, Danielle Angela didn't fit.. So we took my
wife's middle name (Marie) and made it my daughter's middle name. I was so
happy with this-- because it made her initials DMC!!! that was 8 years ago--
I knew that someday I'd get one.
And of course she is thrilled, and likes to rub it in with her older
brother....
Jack-- stop with one, or have a bunch. This middle ground kind of bites.





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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 00:21:30 +0800
From: "ian" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: Re: Auto tranny gov & shift solenoids

Hi DMLers,

With all this talk about Auto-Trans it reminds me I have a used one for
Sale. It is stored in southern California ... came out of my spares car - a
28k mile, recorded history, front crashed car. Tranny is complete and in
excellent shape.

Anyone in need make me an offer.

Regards,             IAN
**********************

----- Original Message -----
From: Adam Price <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Auto tranny gov & shift solenoids


>
> I'd like to replace the shift solenoids while I am at it. Does anyone know
> where I can order these? If they are on the vendor websites, I couldnt
find
> them.
>
> Thanks, Adam
>
> >From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [DML] Auto tranny governor
> >Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:08:33 EST
> >
> >Adam, Normally the governors can be upgraded with a few new parts. I can
> >add
> >them and you can try it out.
> >John hervey
> >http://www.specialtauto.com/
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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>
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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