From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 891
Date: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 6:16 AM

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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: stubborn lock
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

2. Lucas
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>

3. Delorean spotted in new XBOX Game!
From: "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: rust in the engine?
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

5. Re: Lucas
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: rust in the engine?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Lower Control Arms
From: "dherv10" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

8. heavy-duty window regulator fit problems
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

9. vaccuum pressure
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

10. Re: Re:Fuel Cell Question.
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: Conversion parts for BTTF car
From: klaus-peter.steiner_at_dml_rweplus.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 21:39:56 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: stubborn lock

I would start off by disabling (unplug) the lockzilla.  This way you 
can determine if it is a linkage problem, or a switch problem.  With 
it disconnected, you no longer have the solenoids to worry about 
throwing anything off.  With the door in the FULLY closed position so 
both latches are completely shut, operate the lock from both inside 
and outside the car.  Does it work as it should?  If so, you may have 
a bad signaling switch in the lock mechanism telling lockzilla to 
relock the door once you unlock it.  However, more likely from what 
you described (key turned fully AND pulling on handle) it is most 
likely a linkage problem.  If so, it will be acting the same now as it 
did when you started.  You'll need to dig inside of the door now to 
figure out what may be causing the problem.  However since I've never 
done that myself, I will not pretend like I know what I'm doing.  (But 
I'm sure I could figure it out if I ever needed to on my car).  Good 
luck Wayne.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Today when I turned my driver side key it worked stiffly in the 
clockwise 
> direction. It will click as if unlocked, but it's not.  If I hold 
the key in 
> the turned position, and simultaneously lift the door handle, it's 
still 
> locked. Then if I release the key, it springs back to center 
position, 
> accompanied by a locking sound, as if relocking itself. Turning to 
lock then 
> relock won't help. It's done this before but somehow corrects 
itself.  I do 
> have Lockzilla.  Once before I opened it by reaching across from the 
> passenger side.  When unlocking on the passenger side, I don't hear 
any 
> corresponding click on the driver side. Any ideas on a cure?
> -Wayne
> 11174




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:45:44 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_online.no>
Subject: Lucas

Joseph Lucas Ltd, the English Automotive Electronics Manufacturer 
has a reputation not entirely untrue.



The Lucas factory motto: «Get home before dark.»

  a.. Joe Lucas' last words: «Don't drive at night.» 

  b.. Lucas denies having invented the darkness, but they still claim the «sudden, unexpected darkness». 

  c.. Lucas is the patent holder for the short circuit, inventors of the first intermittent wiper and the self-dimming headlamp. 

  d.. The 3 position Lucas switch: Dim, Flicker & Off. 
  The other 3 switch settings: Smoke, Smolder & Burn. 

  e.. The Original Anti-theft device: Lucas Electrics. 

  f.. If Lucas made guns, wars would not start either. 

  g.. It's not true that Lucas in 1947 tried to get Parliament to repeal Ohm's law; they withdrew their efforts when they met too much resistance. 

Did you hear about the guy who asked the owner of a Land Rover «How can you tell one switch from another at night as they all look the same?" He replied, «It does not matter which one you use, nothing happens!" 

  a.. Alexander Graham Bell invented the Telephone. 

  b.. Thomas Edison invented the Light Bulb, 

  c.. Joseph Lucas invented the Short Circuit. 

Recommended procedure before taking on a repair of Lucas equipment: 

  Check the position of the stars, kill a chicken and walk three times sun wise around your car chanting «Oh mighty Prince of Darkness protect your unworthy servant.» 

&  

We fully understand why the Brits drink warm beer, they have Lucas refrigerators. 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 16:08:18 -0000
From: "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Delorean spotted in new XBOX Game!


[some of the text was trimmed by the moderator] 


A bit off topic, but still a good post.

There is a new game coming to the Microsoft XBOX console.  And guess 
what......you get to drive a Delorean (somewhat).

Here are the notes:
http://xbox.ign.com/news/41382.html

Hands on with Wreckless: The Yakuza Mission




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 03:48:15 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: rust in the engine?

The cylinders are made of cast iron (or steel I forget). It's normal 
for it to do that that's why it's important to make sure you have a 
proper 50/50 water to antifreeze mixture.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> hey everyone,
> 
> i've had my fuel system, intake manifold, waterpump, and y-pipe 
removed from 
> my car since november, where it is sitting in a storage garage.  i 
put duct 
> tape over the ports for the intake manifold, closed the engine 
covers, and 
> let it be while i have been waiting for parts and fuel system 
cleaning.  
> anyway, just the other day i was over there and took a look at 
some things in 
> order to decide what parts i need to order and i looked inside the 
> passenger-side hole where the Y-pipe connects to and was puzzled 
to see a 
> corner of something caked in rust down there!  if you look down 
the hole, i 
> can see coolant about an inch down (of course) and i can see the 
corner of 
> something (the cylinder head?) covered in orange/brown rust.  i 
don't 
> remember it being like that before!  i thought this was an 
aluminum engine?  
> my parts are coming this week so i can put everything back 
together again, 
> and now i'm worried that something has been rotting in my engine 
while i have 
> it all exposed.
> 
> what should i do?  should i put it all back together, put 
antifreeze in and 
> load it up with some rust dissolving coolant treatment, then flush 
the system 
> after a couple weeks?  or should i just pretend i didn't see it?
> 
> also, the driver's side is a little rusty but not as bad.
> 
> Andy
> 
> Soma576_at_dml_a...
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 04:12:16 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Lucas

This post was SO GOOD that I sent it on to my Jaguar friends. Heh Heh.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

I guess it helps being close to the source!


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Joseph Lucas Ltd, the English Automotive Electronics Manufacturer 
> has a reputation not entirely untrue.
> 
> 
> 
> The Lucas factory motto: «Get home before dark.»
> 





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 04:22:15 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: rust in the engine?

If it is inside the engine then it should certainly be flushed out. I 
suspect you are really noticing the anti-freeze in the webbing in the 
center of the motor. When you have leaks on top of the motor the 
anti-freeze collects in the webs and as it is evaporated it leaves a 
residue that looks like brown sand. Dry it out as much as you can and 
then suck it out with a wet-dry vacuum. In extreme cases it could 
corrode the block ruining it in the process. This is why you may have 
anti-freeze leaks and never see any on the floor, it has a large 
resovoir to evaporate in. Before you put the air intake back on finish 
the cooling system, pressurize to 15 psi for 15 min and inspect for 
leaks. It is impossible to see them under the air intake after it is 
reinstalled.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> hey everyone,
> 
> i've had my fuel system, intake manifold, waterpump, and y-pipe 
removed from 
> my car since november, where it is sitting in a storage garage.  i 
put duct 
> tape over the ports for the intake manifold, closed the engine 
covers, and 
> let it be while i have been waiting for parts and fuel system 
cleaning.  
> anyway, just the other day i was over there and took a look at some 
things in 
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 05:24:05 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Lower Control Arms

Group, If you would like to see pictures of a broken lower control 
arm, I now have them posted on the web site under Body & Frame. Be 
sure to check yours out.I don't know what could be worse, the lower 
control arm or the TAB's. If you have any questions, please email 
them to me.
John hervey
  http://www.specialtauto.com/bodyparts.shtml




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 02:48:11 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: heavy-duty window regulator fit problems

If anyone has any photos of a properly installed heavy-duty window
regulator, please e-mail me a copy!  I know of no installation directions in
existence.  My problem is that the regulator could not be made to bolt up
properly with the supplied brackets.  Since I'm not the only one with this
problem, I'm beginning to think that ALL heavy-duty window regulators are
like this.  My theory is that the heavy-duty ones were designed to fit early
VIN cars but can not be made to bolt up the same way to later VIN cars.
Since my car came from the previous owner with one of these already
installed, I assumed that it was an OEM regulator since it worked so poorly.
If you already have installed heavy-duty regulators, read the following and
tell me if you have any of the symptoms that I just corrected:

The window now moves effortlessly with no slowing down as it opens or
speeding up as it closes.  There is now no binding or torquing of the tube.
It now no longer scrapes my window tint film or puts pressure on the door
skin.  The end of the lead-spring now no longer runs past the gear when the
window is rolled all the way up.  I now no longer need an extension bracket
like a few other people have used as a fix to stop the ratcheting sound at
the top of travel.  The glass now no longer disappears too deep into the
door where it tended to scrape the window fuzz off.  And now the window
stays on track.  (Imagine that.)  Just how much can go wrong with a window
regulator anyway?

I started by making a small slip-on bracket for the very top of the tube and
attached this to the inside of the door with a screw and spacing it out with
washers.  (It attaches in such a way that it does not block the slot in the
tube.)  With the window rolled up, I determined the proper location for the
top of the tube & the new slip-on bracket.  Then with the window rolled down
that put the bottom of the tube in the correct alignment.  Since the tube
could slide through the slip-on bracket at the top, I was able to determine
the optimum height of the regulator in the door.  This was the perfect
orientation of the tube to effortlessly operate the window, but the shape of
the tube made it impossible to not interfere with the door skin.  So I had
to bend the tube slightly.  Then the dog-ear tab welded on the regulator
tube didn't even come close to reaching anything that I could bolt it to.
In addition, the bracket for the grab handle support was now chronically in
the way, so I drilled the spot-welds out and removed the back part of it.
(I hated that thing anyway as I always had to pry it through the opening.)
Now with it gone, I had plenty of room to make new brackets.  With what was
left of the door handle bracket, there was a convenient unused 6M screw
hole, so I used this as an attachment point.  I ended up making 4 new
brackets out of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum.  This is plenty strong and lighter than
the combined weight of the steel that it replaced.  I'll post pictures when
I get a chance.  If anyone has any similar experiences, please confess.
Thanks.

Walt    Tampa, FL







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 03:36:58 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: vaccuum pressure

hey guys,

I was wondering if someone could tell me how strong the vaccuum is that
the engine draws and is 'stored' in the vaccuum reservoir for use by the
AC control switch....  I wasn't able to find it in the workshop manual...
 Inches Hg or PSI, whatever.

Thanks..
Jim 1537
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 09:54:16 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re:Fuel Cell Question.

The "Euro spec" cars had several changes made to them to satisfy the 
over-zealous registration procedures at the time. Somebody decided that 
because no european car had a composite fuel tank at the time, they must 
be less safe than a metal one, so that was one of the required 
modifications. I don't think the fuel pump being mounted outside the 
tank was a safety concern as European cars of that time also had pumps 
within the tank. Perhaps it was purely easier to make the tank!

I have also had fuel tank woes caused by the original pickup hose. If 
you'll indulge me, I'll attempt a little physics lesson.....

There's no such thing as negative pressure. Or to put it another way, 
suction is not a force in its own right. The pump picks up fuel by 
lowering the pressure on the pickup side and atmospheric pressure forces 
the fuel up the hose. For this reason the "amount of suck" a pump has 
can never exceed atmospheric pressure - roughly 15psi at sea level. 
Mounting the pump on top of the tank will add about 6" to the height the 
fuel must rise - this more than doubles the pressure required to get the 
fuel out of the tank - or to put it another way, this more than doubles 
the work the pump must do in order to drop the pressure sufficiently on 
the intake side to get the fuel up the hose. I would imagine the design 
specs for the pump have this well in hand, so if it works without any 
complaints, I for one would not lose any sleep.

HOWEVER lowering the pressure in the suction hose even further increases 
the possibility of the suction hose collapsing. I have had headaches due 
to the original hose collapsing, but have noticed that the bore of that 
hose need not be anything like as large. My pickup is 1/4" bore and 
drawing through a nice little in-line filter with ports the same size 
(but a considerably larger element than the stock pickup filter). James 
RG has noticed how an apparently solid fuel line becomes soft and flabby 
and prone to collapsing as soon as traffic and a hot day combine to heat 
your fuel up enough. If you do move the pump outside the tank, make sure 
your pickup hose is suitably reinforced (mine's steel-braided line).

Martin
#1458


jamesrguk wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>I may be corrected here by one of the UK DeLorean buffs, but it is my 
>understanding that the European spec cars had metal fuel tanks with 
>the pump mounted on the top apparently for saftey reasons.
>
>The car on this page has the european setup.
>
>www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/dcp01652.jpg
>
>
>Regards
>
>James RG
>England
>





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:33:30 +0100
From: klaus-peter.steiner_at_dml_rweplus.com
Subject: Re: Conversion parts for BTTF car

	Its the  Krups Coffina Super , one was on ebay Germany last week:

http://cgi.ebay.de/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1697457234

Klaus Steiner
VIN 05980
Germany



>    From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: Conversion parts for BTTF car
> 
> Does anyone know the model number of this coffee grinder?
> 
> Erik
> 



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