From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 904
Date: Thursday, February 14, 2002 7:39 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Just bought my DMC and have 142 questions (even longer)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. RE: window regulator replacement
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

3. Re: my 2 cents
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Re: delorean quality formerly 'live the dream ad'
From: James LaLonde <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Driver's side door lock
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

6. Angle drive removal
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm_at_dml_c2i.net>

7. Re: The Dream Car
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com

8. Re: Just bought my DMC and have 142 questions (long)
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. RE: Modifications
From: "dmc812001" <stamberino_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Door Lock
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Delorean on the History Channel
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>

12. RE: New Speaker Install...Save original car
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

13. RE: New Speaker Install...Save original car
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

14. BTTF DVD Box Set
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

15. Re: New Speaker Install...Save original car
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

16. Re: leaky injector
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. RE: New Speaker Install...Save original car
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

18. Re: Driver's side door lock
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: Door Lock
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

20. Re: Interest in Performace Air Filters
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

21. Re: New Speaker Install...Save original car
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

22. Re: The Dream Car
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

23. Re: delorean quality
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

24. wide accent stripe
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. couple of questions
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:15:11 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Just bought my DMC and have 142 questions (even longer)

Hi Steve - work's quiet so I'll have a go....

Firstly, I've not answered anything to which the answer is "I don't 
know". Secondly I have also not answered anything where you've asked 
"where can I get..." because the answer's always the same: Any of the 
parts vendors. The best websites (IMO) are

www.delorean.com (DMC Houston)
www.pjgrady.com
www.specialtauto.com
www.delorean-parts.com

There are some exceptions which I have answered, but they all refer to 
"us over here" having different sources.

Thirdly, you need to buy all the manuals, and they'll answer many of 
your Q's

http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=12

Now, on with your mail:

stevepeck1 wrote:

>Under hood/front:
>Carpet starting to droop in two sections ( what is a good choice for 
>contact cement?)
>
My early car simply has a piece of carpet. Later cars have the carpet 
bonded to a piece of fibreboard. I will be mounting mine to a piece of 
ply when I can be bothered.

>
>The horn is weak sounding.  Can these be repaired with a little 
>tinkering?
>
No - the original horn sounds bloody awful. Check you have BOTH horns 
working, currently one of mine works all the time and the other one 
works when it feels like it. Needless to say, when only one tone sounds, 
you'd be better off opening the window and shouting "BEEP!"

>
>How can I tell if the recalls have been done?
>
Buy the manual.

>
>The hood does not have any real pop-up action when the release is 
>pulled.  What am I missing here?
>
Apparently the spring in the latch was replaced later in production. It 
can also be adjusted. Mine doesn't "pung" either.

>
>Brakes:
>Brake rotors need to be turned, or alternatively, is there an 
>inexpensive aftermarket rotor available?
>
Front or back? IIRC (at least over here) one of them is readily and 
cheaply available, the other not-so.

>What type of adhesive sealant holds in the rear quarter windows?  Is 
>this a tough job?
>
No. Just done them on #2727. Made a delightful mess, but when you're 
working with stainless and glass, your choices of clean-up solvents is 
greatly increased :-) Used black stuff bought form a local motor 
factors. Windscreen sealant is ideal.

>
>Electrical:
>The right hand turn signal occasionally goes double-speed, which 
>indicates to me that a bulb is intermittent, or it has a bad ground.  
>Any experience with this?
>
I bet you a beer it's the rear bulb/board (winner claims beer in Memphis 
:-). It is equally likely to be a bad ground or bad supply, but the 
culprit is most likely to be the tail light board.

>
>What is the proper battery size?
>
As-big-as-will-fit-in-the-hole. The original was an AC Delco. Get the 
best one you can that will fit, and with the best cold-crank rating. Do 
you still have the original screw-terminals?

>
>The fuse box has been replaced, I assume because of the original's 
>propensity to melt.  
>Who has a diagram of the '81 relays?  
>
It's in one of the back-issues of the 'Zine (see www.dmcnews.com)

>The PO "rigged" the ones on 
>this car.
>How can I tell if the relays have been upgraded?
>
Which ones? Some are common-as-muck standard relays. Others (eg lambda) 
are more unusual. Others (fan-fail) are badly made and the subject of a 
recall (see manual which you'll have bought by now, won't you?)

>  A relay on the far 
>right of the car above the battery has been jumpered.  Fuel pump?
>
Far left, as you have your head over it? That's the fan-fail module 
by-pass and was the factory correction for the daftest piece of 
electrical engineering I've ever seen. (Fan fail module, designed to 
alert the driver to a fan failing was in itself the single greatest 
cause of the fan(s) failing!)

>
>Can the rheostat for the dash lights be rebuilt/repaired?
>
If you find out, let me know! Mine's missing. It's just a cheap pot, but 
a funny shape. Mine just has the wires connected so the lights are on full.

>
>The Cig lighter and clock don't work.  I assume that they are on the 
>same circuit.
>
One part of the clock is - you need to buy/get the wiring diagram.

>
>How can I get my hands on an electrical diagram.
>
Ah. There's me seeing the future. Didn't someone just post to the DML 
how? Anyway you can get it here (but it's BIG)

http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/infosheets/Electric.gif

>
>The right-side mirror has no up/down adjustment.  Any likely culprit 
>or testing procedure?
>
With the wiring diagram you can work out what wires do what, and using 
jumper wires you can manually check if the motors still work. I have 
done this to set my offside mirror while I wait for Dave Howarth to 
track down the switch he has. NB you can destroy your switch trying to 
get the bugger out - it is the likely culprit, but is also (together 
with most other non-functioning switches) likely to be fixable with a 
squirt of Servisol10 (switch cleaner/lubricant). Sadly, I never got the 
chance.

>
>Defogger switch is trashed.
>
Maybe, maybe not. How this thing assembles makes you wonder whether the 
person who designed it had six toes on each foot, buck teeth and a 
pronounced hunch. There are relatively few components, and if you do as 
I did and stare at it for long enough with a pair of narrow-nosed pliers 
in your hand, you might be able to work out how to reassemble it. When 
taking it apart, it does fall into several pieces which rattle around in 
it. Or you can buy a new (as in properly designed) one from Houston.

>
>
>Doors:
>Gas struts are pretty well hosed.  Who has the best-priced 
>replacements?
>
Dunno. Got all six of mine from PJ Grady. Lovely.

>
>My window registers (lifts) are toast.  The motors are good.  Who 
>sells replacement gearing?  I can't pay $300 per side for new motors...
>
$250 each from http://www.delorean-parts.com/ Sorry, but the whole 
assembly is crap. If you replace the gear, the elbow will go. If you fix 
the elbow, the rod will strip.

>Interior:
>I need a shift boot, as it is cut from engaging reverse.
>
Available from Houston with a metal bracket. You may need to adjust the 
linkage to stop the same happening again.

>
>Are the interior door panel retaining barbs and clips universal-fit?
>
James RG found some at the NEC show, and conveniently "forgot" which 
stand they came from (grrr). I don't know, is the short answer. They're 
called "fir-trees" BTW.

>
>The headlight switch takes a few presses to convince it to stay 
>engaged.  Can this me repaired, or should I just shut up and pay the 
>$48 for the switch?  
>
Try Servisol10 first, but it'll be delaying the inevitable. You do 
realise it has two positions, don't you? (sorry, granny and eggs and all 
that).

>
>Need the elastic cord replaced for the cargo net.
>The dash "pod" is showing some age, but might be re-coatable, 
>somehow.  Also, the dash has a crack on the right, through the 
>speaker, and the glove box door has a chip in the corner.  Who does 
>that kind of stuff?
>
Plenty of people over here (England) if you don't mind it not being 
"original". Mine's worse than yours, and I'm sorely tempted to go with 
re-covering the whole lot in leather, but with the work done by the 
original suppler in Belfast. It'll probably end up cheaper than original 
vinyl! Try Houston for replacements. You haven't stated what colour your 
interior is. Some pieces are only available in one colour.

>The ignition switch and door key are different.  The door key is the 
>big-head, shorter lighted key, and the ignition is smaller-headed, 
>but longer.  Can either the door or ignition locks be disassembled 
>and re-worked to operate the car with one key?
>
AAARGH - thank your lucky stars you still have a working two-key system! 
Do as I'm going to do and install remote central locking (NB I trust my 
door-lock module which I've re-engineered).

>
>I need all the door seals and gaskets.  Is the profile of any of 
>these available at JC Whitney or another (<$300/side) source?
>
The inner door seal is available over here. It's not ab-so-lu-te-ly 
identical, but you have to look hard to spot the difference. I paid £25 
for enough to do both doors. Again at the NEC. Haven't found 
replacements for the outer bits yet, but in all honesty, there's nothing 
really wrong with the old ones except that they were falling off.

>
>Is there a steering wheel recovering kit available?
>
Ber? It's black leather. Any trimming place should be able to do it.

>
>Please tell me about interior rear view mirror replacement options.  
>This one is in bad shape.
>
It's strait out of just about every large 90-95 Ford over here. A trip 
to the local scrapyard got me mine for £5. I don't know when I'll have a 
chance to visit one next though.

>Under dash / dash:
>A whitish box at the base of the column appears to house the lambda-
>counter.  The electrical has been bypassed, I assume from someone's 
>having kicked it loose.  Is this a big deal?
>
It'll mean a light on your dash doesn't come on to tell you to replace 
your lambda sensor. Potentially you've passed this point and the PO 
didn't know how to re-set the box. What's the mileage on your car?

>The column base "gudgeon" is loose against the firewall.  I have seen 
>these somewhere in an improved model...  Is this a difficult fix?
>
What's a "gudgeon"? If you mean the bush in the metal plate through the 
firewall, I have to do mine too. It involves removing the solumn. Now 
you remember I mentioned the manuals.....

>Engine bay:
>The car may have once been bumped dead center in the rear, as the 
>engine cover hatch takes some oomph to close, and the latch/release 
>has been removed.  Also, there is an obvious void of an inch behind 
>the bumper skin.  Is the bumper skin easy to remove so that the steel 
>portion may be pulled back out?
>
Take the rear fascia off and come back with any more questions once 
you've seen how it assembles. pic here

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02327.jpg

>
>I am very glad YOU got to the bottom of this page.  Thanks for your 
>thoughts and time.
>
No problem

Martin
#1458




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 12:02:05 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: window regulator replacement

I also replaced my window regulator but I didn't have a PDF file (I'd like
to see it someone has it). Once the old one was out the new one was
impossible as a exact bolt-in. Ultimately, once I got it inside the door, it
worked best at an angle. Just a slight tilt upwards made the difference. I
then repositioned the support brakets to line up with existing bolt holes.
The whole unit works like a champ. Only thing is that the right side rolls
down a lot faster!



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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:19:09 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: my 2 cents

One of Quentin's major issues is the car not being worth the money it 
commands. (In his opinion)

Martin
#1458

kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>
>The latest article states that a clean DeLorean is going for $25,000 (up form 
>years past) and some for more.  Show me an 81- 83 vette daily driver that 
>goes for that much.  
>





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 09:17:43 -0800 (PST)
From: James LaLonde <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: delorean quality formerly 'live the dream ad'

you take the car too seriously.
i wasn't quoting JZD at "forever" merely making a
point.
Delorean was not a god... he was bad with finances,
and had an unrealistic dream. he failed in he dream
but created something so much better than if the car
would have succeeded. It's not a rare, and attention
getting car. My favorite car EVER. It is my most
prized material posession.
But..

Where do you get your data. The only reason the panels
were in decent alignment was the quality assurance
team, state side. And look at the poly-u bumbers...
totally off on most cars, if inspected closely.
Simply put hiding behind your percents and stat won't
hide the fact that it was poorly built.
You're right it will last a long long time. Most parts
are rust proof... but many aren't. And rust isn't the
only thing that can kill a car. But again, you're
right, the delorean... compared to most cars.... is
immortal.... But that doesn't make it the god of all
cars.
Did you own a delorean when the first were built. If
you did, can you honestly say it was the same quality
as say a Lincoln or Jaguar or... the vette.... at the
time. No. You bought a jag and knew it would last for
a few years without any problem. not so with the
delorean... regardless of the reason. I didn't say the
workers did a bad job... please read correctly. I said
that *you* (the general list "you" not you DMC Joe)
cannot pawn it off on that. I didn't say the deloreans
isn't a good car. i said it *wasn't* properly brought
to fruitation... and the company failed in it's goal,
as did JZD
I'm not commenting on the reasons.. only the
results... the truth.

But let it stand at this, you think the car is
well-built.. I say it's not.
But the important thing is that we aren't arguing
about whether the De Lorean is the coolest car in the
world.... we all already know that's true.


and Robert 6585... dead on my man. 

I'm done with this now, sorry for offending anyone.
James LaLonde vin#1697



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 12:07:02 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Driver's side door lock

I've got a problem. My passenger door lock sticks when I try to unlock the
door. It happens most often when I lock and unlock the door from the outside
with the key. The problem lies in the front right door lock. When I go to
unlock the door, the lock mechanism sticks a little before releasing.
Sometimes it will let go, but most often it will not. I have already
replaced the RH front lock mechanism and the RH door lock rod.

I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem before and if someone has a
possible solution. I'm hoping to fix it for good and never have to get into
that door again.



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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 18:08:18 +0100
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm_at_dml_c2i.net>
Subject: Angle drive removal

Hi,

The time has come to replace my angle drive (ad), but I can't find
any procedures on the net, or in the manuals.

Do I just loosen the speedo cable, and then unscrew the ad - is this possible
without removing the brake line?

Or do I need to remove the nut that the ad is mounted in? or the nut on
the other side? 

Thanks.

Regards,
Wilhelm Starberg
#10816, Norway








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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 12:53:17 EST
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Re: The Dream Car

"We enjoy the best of all possible worlds and whatever it takes to keep our cars in good condition is well worth it, in fact it's very likely that money spent on a DeLorean is more like a love-offering than a repair cost."

Very right on statement Les.  It *is* the best of all possible worlds- an awesome, unique vechile that you can drive and that is relatively easy to take care of and get support for.  I see putting in money as a love offering *and* as somewhat of an investment, for at the very least you are helping keep the car's value and even increasing it.  Added to the fact that DeLoreans will only keep going up in value does make it perhaps one of the best cars ever to own.

Richard



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 10:02:39 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Just bought my DMC and have 142 questions (long)

Hey Steve congrats on getting a delorean! They are a lot of work, but worth 
it. I am a novice myself so I only know answers to a few of your questions.

Does your hood stay up by itself? If it doesnt then you need new struts and 
that may help the no pop-up problem.

THere is an adjustment procedure for the hand brake, I think its on the DMC 
News tech page, but I'm not sure.

Any size battery should do, as long as it can do at least 500 cold crank 
amps.

The relay that has been jumpered is the fan fail relay. It is likely 
jumpered that both fans come on simultaneously, rather than staggered. This 
helps prevent over-heating. Just about all deloreans have some sort of fan 
fail relay modification on them now.

I think pjgrady sells blank keys and they likely have the best priced door 
struts too, but you should check DMC Houston as well.

Hope I helped a little.
Adam 16683


[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:43:15 -0000
From: "dmc812001" <stamberino_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: RE: Modifications

I'd like to thank all that responded to my prior posting. It's nice 
to see that everyone is friendly and knowledgable. However, I want to 
clear some things up so here it goes. First, any mods that i do, i 
would keep the original parts so that if i wanted to bring her up to 
concourse level in the future, i could. Second, I am not married to 
the idea of painting her, i do like the stainless look, but painted 
it would look great as well. Third, unfortunately I don't have the 
money to buy a "rats nest" and build both cars up. The mods/upgrades 
I would like to do will literally take a couple of years to complete. 
Finally, I look forward to more dialog on this in the future. Thanks.
Sincerely,
Steven T
#2801




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 13:11:36 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Door Lock

I think I already know the answer but let me feign ignorance and ask your 
advice.

I went to my car this morning and unlocked the passenger side door.  As 
usual it did not appear to unlock the driverís door (sometimes it does and 
sometimes it doesnít).  When I closed the passenger door and locked it with 
the key a relay behind the passenger seat started to click about every 5-7 
seconds.

I went to the driverís door and it was unlocked.  I then tried combinations 
of locking the driverís door with the key and getting in the car, closing 
the door and locking/unlocking both doors with each internal lock switche.  
I finally got a good clunk out of the lock solenoids and everything seems to 
be fine now.

The passenger door has always been weird like this but it only appears to 
happen if I use the key on that door.   Both switches and the driverís door 
key lock seem to work fine.

And the answer is?

Ed
10541



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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 18:46:41 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean on the History Channel

YEah, it's called "History's Greatest Blunders" and the first half 
hour segment featured the Spruce Goose.

-Jeff Chabotte
Webmaster: http://www.88-mph.com





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 13:56:41 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: New Speaker Install...Save original car

I am going to a place on Friday called (get this) "The Foam Depot".
They do custom cut foam.  I am going to bring the old board, and have them
but the new foam for me.

-----Original Message-----
From: M.C. de Bruin [mailto:debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 9:57 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] New Speaker Install...Save original car


Kevin Abato wrote:

> I ordered a radio mount kit from DMC Houston, but the rear wall is too
> expensive buy another one to cut and mount speakers in.  Instead, I made
> my own.  Total cost: $21.
> Here are pictures of what I did for the speakers:
> http://24.46.235.195:81/images/dmcspeakers/

[moderator snip]



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 13:58:51 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: New Speaker Install...Save original car

Thanks Mark!

Objective here was to keep it inexpensive.  Fixing the $1k AC leak in the
car this spring is my major concern. 

I chalk it all up to this...It was cheep, and If I wanted to be THAT
concerned with the sound, I would go all out and build speaker boxes.
ANYTHING has to sound better then those 20 year old 4x10" speakers in the
side walls!  ;)


-----Original Message-----
From: Marc A. Levy [mailto:malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 9:48 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] New Speaker Install...Save original car



> Nice job!  But why did you plywood?  The acoustic properties of plywood are
> terrible!  

> If anyone tries to duplicate this, I suggest using MDF (Medium Density
Fiberboard)..  Or if you want to be real high tech, you can order special
acoustic board sold by many car audio vendors..  The board the speakers are
mounted to have a incredible impact on the sound quality.


-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean_at_dml_abato.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 9:06 AM
To: Dmcnews (E-mail)
Subject: [DML] New Speaker Install...Save original car


<SNIP>
>> ...but the rear wall is too
>> expensive buy another one to cut and mount speakers in.  Instead,
>> I made my own.  Total cost: $21.
[moderator snip]



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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 14:09:18 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: BTTF DVD Box Set

[Moderator Note:  This message approved for its information value.  Please do not respong with any discussion of BTTF, unless you have genuine news.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderating team]

Here's the link for the upcoming BTTF DVD Box set:

http://www.bttfmovie.com <http://www.bttfmovie.com> 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 16:13:20 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: New Speaker Install...Save original car

Kevin,

Nice work on the speakers.  I'm planning a similar project and have some
comments on your methods and some ideas for other people doing a similar
project.

You choice of plywood was not the best.  There are reasons why speaker
enclosures are generally made out of that cheap nasty looking
sawdust/particle board.  The great looks of the outer plies on plywood are
not an indication of what is sandwiched inside.  Even though particle board
is cheap, it has no voids or loose edges to rattle internally.

Another material to consider is "music board".  It is a very high grade of
plywood specifically made for speakers & musical instruments.

I would have placed the speakers further apart for better stereo separation.
If I do the same sort of project, I'm wondering if it would help to angle
the top of the board forward to give more air space behind the speakers.
Then I would mount the speakers higher on the panel to take advantage of
this space.  I understand that this sort of space is essential for good
quality sound.  Tilting the panel forward would still provide approximately
the same shelf space on the bottom.

I would like to know your opinion on how mounting speakers in this location
affects engine noise.   I understand that the OEM panel is supposed to have
a lot insulation behind it for this reason.  I seem to always be aware of
the a/c compressor clicking on & off, so anything I could do to attenuate
that would be a plus.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 15:21:57 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: leaky injector

My ideas on your problem:

Perhaps the leak is coming from the banjo fitting where it connects to the
fuel line.

Also consider that maybe you didn't torque the hollow bolt enough.  Did you
use a torque wrench?  That is the only way to be sure it is right.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 16:32:56 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: New Speaker Install...Save original car

As i said in another post, I was trying to keep this cheep.

Had I known about the plywood situation, i would have looked into
alternatives.  But what is done, is done, and I was not looking for any type
of "Ultimate" Sound system.

I left the original foam in place, and cut out JUST a little so that the
speakers had hte mounting depth needed.  I am replacing hte foam on the
sides that "plug" the pontoon section of the body, so I am hoping that when
all is said and done, engine noise should not be any louder.

I mounted the speakers where they are, becuase any closer to the sides of
the car, there is a lot of wiring.  I didnt think it best to but a large
magnetic speaker next to the wires of the car....hence the speakers current
location (I also took into account the foam that "plugs" the pontoon
section)

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt_at_dml_att.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 4:13 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] New Speaker Install...Save original car


> Kevin,

> Nice work on the speakers.  I'm planning a similar project
> and have some comments on your methods and some ideas for
> other people doing a similar project.

> You choice of plywood was not the best.  There are reasons
>  why speaker enclosures are generally made out of that
> cheap nasty looking sawdust/particle board.  The great . . .

[moderator snip]



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 16:38:30 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Driver's side door lock

> My passenger door lock sticks when I try to unlock the
> door.

Define, "stick".  I think what your are describing is that the key does not
turn easily as if you had put the wrong key in the lock.  If this is your
case and you replaced this lock, then I say you need some locksmithing work
done.

Let us know if you have the one-key system or two-key system locks.  I
assume you have the one-key because NOS two-key systems are not available.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 16:47:08 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Door Lock

> When I closed the passenger door and locked it with
> the key a relay behind the passenger seat started to click about every 5-7
> seconds.


The answer is... it sounds like you have the original door lock module which
is notoriously known to be a problem.  You should unplug it before it burns
up your lock solenoids.  The clicking sound you heard was probably not from
the door lock module but from the thermal breaker tripping & resetting as it
would cool off.  If you leave it in this condition then it will drain the
battery not to mention be a fire hazard.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:05:41 EST
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Interest in Performace Air Filters

In a message dated 2/13/02 11:52:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
sean_dmc1_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

<< True. This alone would not result in an marked increase in acceleration 
 or bhp. Best estimates of these filters is a 5hp gain. >>

I ran my EFI Delorean on a chassis dyno with and without the entire air 
filter assy and housing and only saw about a 1 hp gain without it.



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:24:16 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: New Speaker Install...Save original car

I found some sweet alpine speakers that replace the stock 4x10s in the
rear.  They're smaller, but have a separate tweeter and woofer.  If
anyone is interested, it's a 4x6" 'plate' speaker model SPS4629P, and
seem to fit fine...


Jim 1537



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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:35:45 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: The Dream Car

Les makes a very good point.  I agree.  
When I first bought my D, I was in the parking lot of Wal Mart and some
guy came over to stare at my car and ask questions for a while.  Just
then, a carload of teenage guys rolled by cheering and yelling (at the
D)... and the guy standing next to me said- "look, yesterday you were
nobody, and today you're a celebrity."

I'm tired of working on my car ans swear at it daily, but still, it's by
far the coolest car I can think of for the price...


Jim 1537



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:13:48 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: delorean quality

alright, now that we're all thowing fists, I think that this post is a
little much.

Although DMC Joe consistently and constantly quotes low failure rates,
one could argue that the failure rates are not entirely accurate.. 
First, mileage is always questionable because the angle drive can't
manage to work long enough to keep the odometer working.  Second, there
is no hundred-thousand digit on the odometer.  People with complete car
histories are blessed, some of the rest of us are not as lucky.  My car
reads 33k miles, but it could have rolled over 10 times by now.  Plus,
the angle drive doesn't work either...  Third, I question the cross
section of the DMC community you are in contact with about failures... 
I'm pretty sure that no previous owners of my car got it fixed by DMC
Joe.  One might argue that people that do not care about their car much
would not be going to Joe for parts... This might be the biggest reason
for going to a trained professional for repairs, updates, or checks; more
reliability!

I disagree that the panels were aligned properly, though my only point of
refernce is a 20 year old car... my front quarter panels do not line up
with the front edge of the door, and I know that a lot of cars have the
exact same problem.

Also, as far as parts being prone to failure, my starter lost a wire,
engine leaks like a seive, ignition coil exploded black goo all over the
engine compartment, windshield wiper broke off, washer pump stopped
pumping, a CV boot split, front struts stopped absorbing, brakes leaking
fluid at the master cylinder, muffler sheild broke off, and AC had never
worked.  Add that to your database, DMCJoe.  

I refuse to believe that my car's failures allows 99 (or 20, depending on
mileage) other cars to be in perfect order.

Note to the kiddies: Love this car for all it's worth, or you will hate
it for all it's failures.

Jim
1537



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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 18:25:54 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: wide accent stripe

ok dmc joe, lets put aside our differences.
i have a question.
i know that houston has a reproduction wide accent strip for less than your
original ones... but they aren't in stock.
i don't care about original, but i'm willing to spend more money to get them
now... but are your strips in good condition... i mean after 20 years is
this rubber.. plastic.. whatever still gonna stick to the car and look good.

and can you give me some more info about what they're made of and how to
apply them.

thanks!! and if someone from houston is listening... are your's in stock
yet?



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:02:25 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: couple of questions

i need some help doing the final small things to make my delorean as i want
it for now.
see guys... i'm working on my car... i'm not the heartless delorean-hater
you thought.

1. my speedo doesn't work. i know it's the worse of two small problems...
the angle drive. but none of the parts are phrased like that on the vendor's
sites... what parts will i need to fix this? part number if you have it..
perhaps

2. again, the vendors sight are unclear about what part i need. the rear,
passenger-side side running light (red one, in the rubstrip line).. doesn't
work. i took it off but to no avail. how to take that assembly apart, and
again which bulb might i need?

3. the passenger side lock when locked makes both locks lock..(gotta love
that sentence) and when unlocked makes both locks unlock. but the driver
side lock when locked make both locks lock... but when unlock does not cause
the passenger side lock to unlock. get it?... anyway... what's broken.. and
what do i need to fix it. perhaps just buy lock-zilla and replace it all.
: )




thanks so much!!
james lalonde 001697



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