From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 905
Date: Thursday, February 14, 2002 4:04 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

To search the archives or view files, log in at

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Neon Ground Lights
From: "Digital Devices" <>

2. Re: Stainless Cleaner NOT!
From: "Kevin Creason" <>

3. more questions
From: "James LaLonde" <>

4. Re: Door Lock
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

5. Re: delorean quality formerly 'live the dream ad'
From: Josh Keady <>

6. Re: Driver's side door lock

7. Re: leaky injector

8. Re: Parts in General.

9. Fuel Distributor: Learn what I'm learning!
From: "deloreanfl" <>

10. Reckless video game mpg in files
From: "Kevin Creason" <>

11. Re: Door Lock

12. Re: Door Lock
From: "dmcman82" <>

13. Re: A disservice to our car

14. Re: Should I or shouldn't I?
From: Jack The Stripper <>

15. Re: New Speaker Install...Save original car
From: "dan g." <>

16. A new twist on the door mechanism problem
From: Andrew Smith <>

17. Re: more questions

18. RE: Digest Number 904
From: Travis Goodwin <>

19. Re: couple of questions
From: "dmc6960" <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:03:38 -0500
From: "Digital Devices" <>
Subject: Neon Ground Lights

Well .. I just finished installing my ground lights .. and 
BOY they look COOL (my opinion)
But .. I wanted to make sure that when I installed them .. that NO HOLES
I used zip ties and so forth to hold them in place
. front one and rear one are fine ..
but the middle ones are giving my a bugger of a time
any suggestions?
I put some pictures of the work in the fold NEON_Underbody in the
pictures section
All suggestions are appreciated


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 18:36:53 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <>
Subject: Re: Stainless Cleaner NOT!

They have whole-house water softeners at Sears, Home Deport, etc. Your whole
family will thank you.

----- Original Message -----
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
To: <>
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 2:59 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Stainless Cleaner NOT!


> However, hard water is a problem. I have calcium stuck down in
> the grain. I'll try the bleach-white as see if that cleans things up a
> bit. Thanks for the tip!
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"

[quote trimmed by moderator to enhance relevance of this response]


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 21:48:05 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <>
Subject: more questions

ok.. cold start problems.
i've read the tech pages on this but what do you guys think?

car will always start when warm, perfectly like a brand new machine.
if left for more than around 4-6 hours, even in the cold, the car will
without fail start on the first or second try... usually the second.
if left for less than 4 hrs but enough time to get cold again, the car will
always start but only have much cranking, many tries, and much gas-pedal
pumping. when cranking the car simply cranks and cranks and then may try to
turn over every now and again,. but will only start after pumping and

cold start valve, thermo time switch, fuel inj.s, fuel accmltr.... what? can
you guys help me out... she's nearly up to par...

thanks again,
james lalonde 001697


Do You Yahoo!?

Get your free address at


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 02:59:13 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Door Lock

Seeing as the central locking works from both interior rockers (in both directions?) I
would suggest you check the linkage in the passenger door, and that when you work the
lock by the key, the linkage doesn't flex preventing the electrical slider thingy (sorry
- dunno what to call it!) from making contact. It sounds like this slider is loose in the
pass door. It would also account for the continuous clicking (NB this is the lock module,
but is NOT what happenns when this goes wrong)

It sounds like your lock module might need attention anyway (hey, if it's original, they
all do!)


Ed Garbade wrote:

> I think I already know the answer but let me feign ignorance and ask your
> advice.
> I went to my car this morning and unlocked the passenger side door.  As
> usual it did not appear to unlock the driverís door (sometimes it does and
> sometimes it doesnít).  When I closed the passenger door and locked it with
> the key a relay behind the passenger seat started to click about every 5-7
> seconds.


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:31:17 +0000
From: Josh Keady <>
Subject: Re: delorean quality formerly 'live the dream ad'

Umm, pardon me if I'm missing something, but if a car is like new, it
doesn't have defective parts.  Thus replacing the defective parts on any car
should make it like new...


> From: "DMC Joe" <>
> the majority of the car can be revived to like new condition by simply
> replacing defective parts. Try that with any other car.


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 22:27:59 EST
Subject: Re: Driver's side door lock

Travis and others. Most of the time the problem isn't in the solenoid but in 
the module, bad relay's. I can replace them. Look on the web site about 
these. Also, a good cleaning, lubricating and adjustments can hurt anything 
in the door mechanisms.
John hervey


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 22:51:30 EST
Subject: Re: leaky injector

Payne, Narrow down what's going on. 
Yes, Replace the cooper washers with new ones every time. 
Also, New injectors can also be faulty.
The fuel distributor may be delivering more fuel to that cylinder than other 
even thought that's unlikely.
Swap out the injector with a known good one in the car see if that new swap 
out leaks. If it does also, then there may be a blockage in the injector seat 
or a shim problem in the fuel distributor.
John hervey
Call me if I can help.


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 23:11:32 EST
Subject: Re: Parts in General.

Marc, You might be surprised on how much aftermarket is out there for the 
Delorean. The problem is constant research, fitting and checking. Then 
mistakes are made. But, Naturally I don't put out a cross reference on parts 
on my site, but when I find a part that will work with a small modification 
or none at all, then I will normally buy it and try it. The problem is, 
because were dealing with sometimes 20 year old technology, nobody stocks the 
parts. They have to be ordered and not returnable. There are a few Items I 
have on the site, that I'm told buy the auto parts stores that I'm the 
biggest buyer they have. There was a catalog put out recently by an auto 
supply store of a few Delorean parts. What they didn't realize is they have 
more that they sell but just don't know it will work in the Delorean and in 
some cases it's the identical part.   
I guess what I'm saying, they are getting the business from me and all the 
shops that I sell to around the country. I also appreciate all the DML people 
that are calling and buying also. I don't have it all and never will, I will 
check it to other people and sites that have come with an improvement or 
equals. But I just keep either finding parts or making parts. More to come.
John hervey

In a message dated 2/13/02 6:04:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, writes:

<< This seems to be a popular subject lately.  I wish some of the big 
aftermarket auto part companies were on the list to see how much money they 
are loosing by not making "junk" for our cars.  :) >>


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 04:14:24 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <>
Subject: Fuel Distributor: Learn what I'm learning!

Hi Folks,

Well, I'm continuing to become more versed in the CIS fuel injection 
system. Since I love the information trade I get from this news 
group, I thought I'd share something I have suspected - and recently 
learned or (confirmed):

NOT ALL BOSCH CIS Fuel Distributors are created equal!

In fact, you would think that if is was off of 78 to 80's model, 6 
cyclinder Bosch CIS fuel system...that it will work on a DeLorean.

WRONG.  I have learned that even among different 6 cyl. Volvos, 
Porsche's, and VW's the fuel distributors have different "flow rates" 
(measured in CM^3 / 60 seconds) AND they require different main fuel 
pressures to operate properly!

For example: a Bosche Fuel distributor for a 6 cyl. (model # 0-438-
100-048) requires 5.5 to 6.2 Bar of pressure to operate peroperly.  
While a Bosch fuel distributor for a 6 cyl. (model #0-438-100-076) 
requires 4.5 to 5.2 Bar to operate properly. AND they have DIFFERENT 
flow rates.

So where am I going with this? Don't assume because it's a Bosch CIS 
6 cyclinder fuel distributor, it will work properly on a DeLorean.

Check out:

They have additional information comparing model numbers.

I hope this can help someone out.  It has certainly prevented me from 
choosing to make a mistake.

Dunedin, FL
VIN 05557


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 20:58:26 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <>
Subject: Reckless video game mpg in files

[Moderator Note: Many subscribers may be amused by this.  But it is a huge file (takes up 1/7 of our "Files" space all by itself) so it will not stay in that section for very long.  Perhaps someone will host it on their personal website?  - Mike Substelny, moderating team]

I just happened to capture about 3/4 of the commercial for the Xbox video
game "Reckless" featuring a Delorean...

Check it out if you dare.



Message: 11
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 22:22:07 EST
Subject: Re: Door Lock

Ed, There has been ton's of information about door locks, good and bad and 
mostly bad. I have had no problen with the door locks in my car as long as i 
don't the locking levers on the door. More that likley the relays in the 
module is bad and need replacing. Look on my site at what I show about them. 
And Yes, the relay's do wear out in the module just like in other parts of 
the car. I normally just replace them.
John hervey


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 04:22:54 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <>
Subject: Re: Door Lock

Do you have the original Door Lock module? If so then that's where 
you problem may be. They have a large failure rate.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> When I closed the passenger door and locked it with 
> the key a relay behind the passenger seat started to
> click about every 5-7 seconds.
> I went to the driver's door and it was unlocked.  I then
> tried combinations of locking the driver's door with the
> key and getting in the car, closing the door and 
> locking/unlocking both doors with each internal lock 
> switche.

[quote trimmed by moderator]


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 00:00:19 EST
Subject: Re: A disservice to our car


    Read the new issue of Car and Driver, comparing the 2002 Porsche 911 to 
the 1977 Porsche 911. BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!

    I love the DMC as much or more than the next person. It was a NEW car, 
from a NEW company, a NEW workforce, a NEW schedule, building a NEW car for 
an entirely NEW automotive market, in a NEW factory, from a region of a 
country NEW to the automotive world, without Ocean of capitol that the 
larger, global, automotive companies the snap of their fingers.

    The DeLorean was, in 1981, in the league of the "Yuppie" cars, like BMW, 
Jaguar, and Mercedes Benz, all of which had their own unique problems. 
Example; Mercedes Benz Model's 107, such as the coveted 450 SLC or its 
replacement the MB 380 SL has timing chain and sprocket issues, as well as 
Air conditioning issues. Mercedes is STILL performing warranty work on these 
    In addition, the modern SL600 V-12 has serious suspension problems, as 
well as complicated electrical system.
    Additionally, the NSX has transmission problems, the 1992-1994 NSX has 
snap ring failure that causes transmission failure. Acura will NOT honor 
warranty work on the car. The value of the NSX is worse than the DeLorean!  
There is a class action lawsuit that awarded the NSX owner new tires. 

    The "worlds best sports car" according to the public ... the Lamborghini 
Countach is a serious piece of work...for the mechanics that service them. 
The cars rust while they sit, they have Bosch K-Jetronic fuel systems, in 
addition, their unrefined, cramped interiors without adequate legroom are 
uncomfortable, HOT, NOISY, and cheap like the switch gear in a domestic.

    My point is, the DeLorean was a giant paradigm shift in the thought that 
goes into car ownership, as well as, manufacturing and marketing. IF ... the 
DeLorean was the failure that everyone claims it to be, why are the current 
up market manufactures, marketing and assembling their top of the line cars 
just like the DeLorean?

I rest my case.

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 00:34:30 -0800
From: Jack The Stripper <>
Subject: Re: Should I or shouldn't I?

I agree totally!
If this really is such a mint specimen then PLEASE keep it original! 
There are very few DeLoreans in such good shape (with such low mileage).
If you have the money and inclination to do any painting and/or other 
customizations, by all means, use one of the many DeLoreans which have 
been sadly neglected and need work anyway, not such a perfect stock example.

By the way, I also live on Long Island.  I am not a DMC owner yet, I 
hope to be one day though.  Where did you get this car?  I think I may 
have seen the car you purchased on eBay once.  Email me privately if you 
wanna talk more about DMC's on LI, I'd be happy to chat with you.


> Message: 4
>    Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 21:44:36 -0500
>    From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
> Subject: RE: Should I or Shouldn't I??
> However, if your looking for opinions there will
> be no shortage of them here!  So-  My opinion is 
> that if your current delorean is as "mint" as you
> say, leave it alone.  If you want to do heavy
> modifications on a DeLorean (especially paint it!)
> please find another car that is in need of work
> anyway, possibly one that is already painted.

>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: dmc812001 []
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 4:12 PM
>> To:
>> Subject: [DML] Should I or Shouldn't I??
>> Hi All, 
>> I am new to this group, but i am an avid(rabid??) Delorean fan. I 
>> purchased an 81 #2801 in August 2001. After some work at PJ Gradys, 
>> shes now a daily driver and a great compliment to my SLK 320. I have 
>> some questions regarding modifications. I love the way the car looks, 
>> but i saw a pic of one in Black that looks wild. 

[Quotes snipped by moderator]


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 22:28:33 -0800 (PST)
From: "dan g." <>
Subject: Re: New Speaker Install...Save original car

"You choice of plywood was not the best.  There are reasons why speaker
enclosures are generally made out of that cheap nasty looking
sawdust/particle board.  The great looks of the outer plies on plywood are
not an indication of what is sandwiched inside.  Even though particle board
is cheap, it has no voids or loose edges to rattle internally."

- The optimum speaker enclosure material to use is MDF (Medium Density
Fiberboard, other grades are available like LDF and HDF..the only difference is
price, density and hence weight). Overall it has a greater density than
particle board, which most cheap enclosures are made out of, it is more
resiliant to temperature change and moisture and acoustically, it is a more
stiff material.

You can find it at Lowe's, Home Depot or most good wood supply houses. For
mounting speakers smaller than 8", 1/2" thick MDF is suitable, if you're going
larger, 3/4" + is recommended.

When I build an enclosure or a speaker baffle, I also like to flush mount the
speaker in the face, this gives a nice, clean, uniform look and if you use
color coordinated grilled, the speakers are almost undetectable.

For more information on car audio, check out and

As for engine resonance, you could coat panels with either spray deadener, like
Cascade Audio's spray deadener, or Noise Killer Blue. For something cheaper
than Dynamat with the same effectivness try RAAM Mat.. It is typically sold on
Ebay, or try

Hope this helps :)

Dan G.
87 Turbo Regal


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 07:51:29 -0600 (CST)
From: Andrew Smith <>
Subject: A new twist on the door mechanism problem

Greetings, list.  I just yesterday got my first Delorean ('81, #4115) and
I'm already in love.  What a fun car!

Anyway, I'm having trouble with my driver's side door mechanism, but not
the normal one.  I've searched the archives for this specific problem, and
it may very well be in there, but unfortunately, these search terms show
up about a million times.

Surpisingly enough, the locking system seems to work fine, and both
solenoids appear to be in good shape.  I have not yet ascertained whether
or they've been replaced and/or other updates have been made to the
locking system.  My problem, however, is that even when the driver's door
is unlocked, it doesn't open most of the time.  When I pull up on the
handle, I can feel it come slightly open, but the mechanism clearly does
not fully disengage from the sill.

I'm planning to disassemble the door to give it a look, but I'd appreciate
any pointers about this specific problem from someone who's been there

Thanks!  I'm really looking forward to owning this car.



Message: 17
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 08:53:00 EST
Subject: Re: more questions

James, You can test the TTS switch and the cold start valve real easy. Just 
remove the cold start valve and lay it on a piece of card board or something 
to see the small amount of fuel sprays when you turn the key on like trying 
to start the car. Just a second. If they are working OK, then the air flow 
meter may need a 1/8 or 1/4 turn clock. The control plunger is riding to low 
in the fuel distributor. 
Have your CO checked when you can with the proper equipment.
John hervey                  


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 08:51:32 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <>
Subject: RE: Digest Number 904

The door lock itself turns fine and I have just the one key. It seems to
have more to do with the door latch itself. When the Z shaped lock rod pulls
on the arm of the door latch, the arm seems to stick a little before giving
in with a "thunk." It did it both with the new and old one, and as far as I
can tell, it does it on the drivers side (I haven't taken it apart, I've
only felt it). I have observed it while I was locking and unlocking the the
car from the inside... You know, as I write this I'm thinking I might need
to tighted the door lock cable since it affects the travel of the door lock
rod when the car is unlocked from the outside. Hmmmmmmm.

> > My passenger door lock sticks when I try to unlock the
> > door.
> Define, "stick".  I think what your are describing is that 
> the key does not
> turn easily as if you had put the wrong key in the lock.  If 
> this is your
> case and you replaced this lock, then I say you need some 
> locksmithing work
> done.
> Let us know if you have the one-key system or two-key system locks.  I
> assume you have the one-key because NOS two-key systems are 
> not available.
> Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 14:06:25 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <>
Subject: Re: couple of questions

James, if you are ever unclear about a part on sombody's website, why 
not just call them? (BTW, the speedometer parts are listed under 
Steering/Suspension in the parts book and Houston's online database.  
And on PJ Grady's website an entire section lists out all the 
speedometer parts.  Try his Hardcore rebuilt drive, works great.)

About your lock, my locks were doing the exact same thing when I 
bought my car.  It was a simple loose connection at the primary 
harness for the lock module, but if yours is original almost everyone 
here would suggest you buy a lockzilla (unless your real good with 

For the rear marker light, it isn't rocket science.  Just unscrew the 
lens, remove bulb, and replace bulb with generic auto bulb 
replacement.  If the bulb is rusted into the socket and will not 
budge, well, then you need to get creative.  If its still not 
lighting you need to check for power at the socket etc etc.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_y...> wrote:

> 1. my speedo doesn't work. i know it's the worse of two small 
> problems... the angle drive. but none of the parts are phrased
> like that on the vendor's sites... what parts will i need to
> fix this? part number if you have it..
> perhaps
> 2. again, the vendors sight are unclear about what part i need.
> the rear, passenger-side side running light (red one, in the
> rubstrip line).. doesn't work.

> 3. the passenger side lock when locked makes both locks lock..
> James LaLonde

[long quote snipped by moderator]


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to