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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 922
Date: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 4:44 PM

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There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Solution to my alternator problem
From: Andrew Smith <>

2. Re: Rebuilding the CPR
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

3. ETDOC Event on March 9/10
From: "Sean Howley" <>

4. Re: Rotary engine
From: "Chris Boden" <>

5. Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla

6. RE: Re: My climate control panel is getting hot...
From: "K Creason" <>

7. Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.

8. Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.
From: "dmcman82" <>

9. Re: Infinity Kappa 32.1 cf speakers...

10. Re: new owner!
From: steven tamberino <>

11. Re: new owner!
From: "Walter Coe" <>

12. AZ club meeting...
From: "Dan RC30" <>

13. slide scanner & photography services
From: "Walter Coe" <>

14. Re: Rebuilding the CPR
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

15. RE: Rotary engine
From: "Scott Mueller" <>

16. Re: completely adjusting throttle linkage

17. Re: cold running problem

18. Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)

19. Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
From: "Hank Eskin" <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:50:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Andrew Smith <>
Subject: Solution to my alternator problem

I got a call yesterday from John Hervey regarding my alternator problem
and he suggested the same thing Walt touched on here on the list:  A
problem with my alternator idiot light in the instrument cluster.  This
was the problem, so I figured I'd comment on it here both to thank John
and Walt for their help and to get this solution into the archives.

I opened up the bottom of the dash and reached up in there to check on the
bulbs and disovered that the alternator light was worse than burnt out--it
was entirely missing, including the little plastic bulb holder.  The
lambda light was also missing, although that one isn't, to my knowledge,
going to cause me any problems.

I stole the plastic socket for the oil pressure warning light and put it
and a fresh bulb in the alternator bulb's position and now my alternator
works perfectly!  I've ordered a couple of replacement sockets so I can
get bulbs installed in all the positions, and I replaced all the bulbs as
long as I was up in there.

Of course now I am asking myself, how was I getting any voltage at all off
my old Motorola alternator?  Admittedly, it was very low voltage (8-11 or
so), but it was there nonetheless.  The only explanation this uneducated
shadetree mechanic can muster is that the old alternator's coil spent
enough time in a charged state that it was permanently magnetized, at
least slightly.  Does this make any sense to any of the better mechanics
out there?

Anyway, the problem is solved, and I'm a happy camper.  I really
appreciate John Hervey's efforts in solving this problem.  He called me on
his own nickle to discuss it with me.  I'm really not used to getting that
level of service, so I was pleasantly surprised.  I highly recommend
anyone who has not dealt with John not hesitate to do so.

Also thanks to Walt here on the list, although his explanation didn't
arrive until after the problem was solved.  Maybe next time.  ;-)

Thanks all.

 #4115, Houston TX


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 01:40:26 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding the CPR

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "cdrugly" <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> Has anyone had luck simply rebuilding/cleaning their CPR or is it 
> generally better to replace it?

Don't bother with it, just get it relpaced. The heater wires inside 
are not soldered. Everything either clips or crimps into place. You 
can't solder anything back into place because it wont stick to any of 
the metal inside.

The gasket on the bottom does 2 jobs: It seals the vacum chambers, 
and comprises the lower diaphram. The diapharm portion itself has to 
be taught in place to seal correctly.

Over time, insects, and other crud can clog the ambient chamber. If 
you open it up, to run the risk of unseating the gasket, and 
preventing it from resealing itself properly.

Save yourself the time, and just replace the entire unit if it has 
been deemed to be the cause of a problem.

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:21:10 -0500
From: "Sean Howley" <>
Subject: ETDOC Event on March 9/10

Well, coming up in a little less than 2 weeks, we will be having our next ETDOC event.  If any of you have a weekend to go out and enjoy your DeLorean, this would the place and the time to do it.  On Sat, we will be having a dyno testing session going on in the early afternoon.  You will be able to measure the actual "useable" HP you have on hand as well as the torque and graphically tell what your engine does throughout the rpm range - good stuff!  We may even be able to find out what the car's actual top speed is under a controlled condition (hint hint Joe P.).  After that takes place, we will head out to Gatlinberg where we will stay for the night.  We will go out to eat and see how much trouble we can stir up.  When we get up in the morning, we will grab something to eat and take off to the real fun - the "Dragon".  If you have not been on this road before, you are really missing out (see Aaron's previous post on this and the web link).  We have about 10 cars showing up as it stands right now - and several others - owners w/o their car and enthusiasts.  Several of the people coming are not only regulars for our events, but came to the last "Dragon" run that we had last year - and are coming again!  This road is unbelievable, no joke.

Anyway, I hope that we have a few others come - all are welcome.  I hope we can get a few people from Atlanta SEDOC, Nashville, S. Carolina, N. Carolina, and Virginia to show!  Maybe we can get Timmy....Timmy.Timmy.........Timmy to come too.

See you all in about two weeks, right?

Sean Howley

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:00:42 -0500
From: "Chris Boden" <>
Subject: Re: Rotary engine

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Jim Strickland <>
Date:  Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:42:45 -0500

>Both of you guys are too late, unless you want to be second.

I have no problem with being gives me the chance to get advice from someone who already made the mi$take$ :)

>I've already fitted my 3-rotor cosmo to my porsche 6-speed transmission
>and modified the frame to fit both in.  The Cosmo dash looks really nice
>in place of the stock one, I will say.  

That's EXACTLY what we had planned, even the 6-speed Porche tranny!

>If anyone else is thinking about the rotary (including you geeks), I'd
>highly suggest the 13b 2-rotor over the 3-rotor.  It's harder to get
>parts for, and an english owner's manual doesn't exist!

That's ok :) It's only got what, 5 moving parts to break? 

I would be completely satisfied with a standard 2-rotor, 70Mph in second gear is plenty fast for our car :)

>Who said the Delorean couldn't be a dragster?  
>Sorry to the purists who may be offended by this.
>Jim (learning japanese)

Konbanwa, Chrisdesu ogenki desu ka?

>1537- frankenlorean... It's alive!!! alive!!!

Christopher A. Boden
Geek#-1 Rank G-6
The Geek Group
Because the Geek shall inherit the Earth!


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 22:15:29 EST
Subject: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla

       I have a recently (December) purchased fuel sender from Delorean one 
and it too, swings too wildly on turns and accel's. from stops.  I was pretty 
disappointed in it given that it cost nearly $300.



Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:42:05 -0600
From: "K Creason" <>
Subject: RE: Re: My climate control panel is getting hot...

>P.S.  I still haven't figured out a dictionary term to describe some 
>of us DeLorean owners who spend more money on their 'D' than their 
>bank account allows.

how about Debtoreans.


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 22:35:29 EST
Subject: Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.

       You're not crazy, but you will wind up putting the requisit amount of 
money into the car to make it what you really want.  The things that need 
repair that make it a $14k car will haunt you because you know they are there 
and you'll want to fix them.  I know this because mine was a $14k car 2 
months ago but it is demanding more moola every week.

       Don  VIN # 6860

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 03:37:24 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <>
Subject: Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.

Well a $14,000 Delorean will be (at least should be if someone is 
asking that price) in OK condition. If and when you do find a car 
you want to purchase I highly recomend you swing on by Rob's place 
for him to give it a once over so your not stuck with a headache. 
Chances are if it's a NY/NJ car, Rob probably worked on it and may 
have paperwork on it.

As for maintinance, the D is like any other car. Regular oil 
changes, tune ups, fluid changes, etc...just like any other ole' car.

The Delorean is a fun car to work on, I tore mine down to the last 
bolt on the car 4 years ago (including the engine and tranny) and 
have been restoring it on my own since, it's what keeps my sanity in 
check and it's relaxing and gives me a sense of accomplishment when 
I finish assembling another part of the car. I'm hoping to have it 
on the road this spring (people who know me know I've said that 
EVERY but I am very close to this spring.



Message: 9
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 22:38:17 EST
Subject: Re: Infinity Kappa 32.1 cf speakers...


I do believe that you should have enough space between the speaker's surface 
mount and the dash board, I think there is about 1/2" clearance and the 
Infinity 32.1cf have a 3/8" protrusion.  If not, you can make a shim that is 
3/16" thick.  This is all you need and again I believe that the mounting 
studs are long enough to accommodate the shim and speaker.  If you are making 
the new shims, have holes provided in the shims to be mounted onto the dash 
and also install studs to the shim to accommodate the 32.1cf.

FYI. You can install up to a 4" speaker in the same space where the 3 1/2" 
sits with no trouble with tweeter protrusion.  The dash mounts opening can 
handle the 4" speakers.  You can use a Dremel tool to remove some material 
off the dash.  Remove about a 1/6" around the dash's opening which will give 
you an extra 1/8."  The 4" sounds better too, they are bigger, therefore they 
have a slightly deeper sound.  The cost is about the same.  I have a set of 
Polks 4" in my DeLorean for the last five years with no problems in the 
mounting or the tweeter protrusion and they have a 5/8" tweeter protrusion.  
I like the Polks over many of the other speakers that I A/B five years ago.  

Two weeks ago, I have replace my entire sound system components except for 
the Polks speakers under the dash.  Due to the new equipment and its sound 
characteristics, I am tempted to get under the dash board and replace the 
Polks with the Infinity 432i (4") to get a "balanced" sound along with the 
other Infinity speakers that I have in the DeLorean now. 

BTW, on the issue of speakers, they are very subjective, to different people. 
 I may like them, you may not.  So, listen for the "characteristics" 
carefully before you buy and they do sound different with in different cars 
with different equipment driving them!  They may fit the car and not your 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:00:22 -0800 (PST)
From: steven tamberino <>
Subject: Re: new owner!

--- dmcjohn <> wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> Well, I finally own a DeLorean! Vin
> #SCEDT26T5BD003810. It is a 
> September 1981 (September 15th according to the
> writing under the 
> headliners) with black leather and a 5 speed trans.
 Hi John,
Congatulations on your purchase and welcome to the
world of Delorean ownership. I don't know what you
paid for the car, but i do have some tips that i think
will help you. 
I know you want the performance
stuff(springs,shocks,zilla parts, etc..) But there are
a few things you should consider getting first. Make
sure your car has ALL the recalls and service bullitin
work done. Since your car is an early 81 (mine has an
August 81 build date) these will need to be taken care
of before anything else. Make sure the altenator is
upgraded to at least 105amp, as your battery will
probably not hold it's charge, especially if you want
a nice sound system. Check the fuel lines, pump and
tank, since your car has such low miles ( as mine has
only 20,000) , your fuel system make need work. Also,
change the oil and engine coolant immediately, as this
also may be old and of poor quality. Check all
soleniods, and fuses, replace with new ones. Don't
open and close the windows too much until you can get
the motors updated, as they can get stuck in the
"down" position and make it hard to use as a daily
driver.Make sure your steering column is ok and that
the tie rods are in good order.All this work can be
done at PJ Gradys, and will be costly. I know, i had
most of that work done after i purchased my Delorean
in August of 01. Rob Grady had me do all that work and
i still want to change all the hoses and replace my
radiator with the three core unit he sells, before i
start with the springs/shocks/stereo/CD player/etc..
Believe me, doing this stuff first will make your car
very reliable, and you'll have a car that looks good,
but runs great.. I hope I was helpful.
Steve T.


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 23:33:38 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: Re: new owner!

> the fuel gauge never reads full, even after a
> fillup. Is this something tankzilla would fix?

Yes, I'm sure it would.  And this is the best way to go, albeit the most
expensive.  The OEM sender can be repaired, but time will tell if the
current repaired ones are going to be reliable.  I assume they will be.  If
you are budgeting your repairs, use your trip odometer as an indication of
how far you have traveled on a full tank.  But be gentle with the odometer
reset arm because they break easily.

> the electric windows go up and down fine, except
> that the motor does not stop turning when the window closes, so if I
> don't take my finger off the button, the gears will grate off each
> other. Is there a fix for this??

Check to see if you have the original window motor or the heavy duty
replacement.  If the original one is making this noise, then the most
sensible thing to do is to replace it (unless you are on a budget and like
to re-engineer things.)  If you already have the heavy duty one installed,
then it is not installed properly.  It is easy to mount the elbow of the
tube too far forward (which is the same place the OEM one hooks up, but the
heavy duty one mounts to the hole further back according to PJ Grady's
instructions).  Too far forward puts the tube at the wrong angle and also
puts the end too low where it can run out of leader spring.  Then the
ratcheting sound you hear is the sound of the gear slipping past the last
coil of the leader spring.  Good luck getting a heavy-duty window regulator
to fit perfectly according to the instructions.  I've typed up a long post
about his before, so check the archives.

I am almost certain you are dealing with an improperly installed heavy-duty
window regulator because if the OEM one had these symptoms on the way up,
then it wouldn't bring the window back down again because it would be junk
by then.

How to tell which one you have before opening the door:  Remove the forward
most light from your door.  To do this, roll the rubber away from the lens
and pop the lens out.  Then squeeze the rubber boot to pull it out.  Look in
through this hole with a flashlight and look at the regulator.  If it is
made of gray metal and white plastic, then it is OEM.  If it is made of
yellow zinc-plated metal and has a red plastic tube in front of your peep
hole, then it is a heavy duty regulator.  This can help you decide if you
want to order a new regulator BEFORE you take your door apart the first

> Jobs to be done over the next few
> weeks include getting PJ Gradys lowering kit with the nitrogen
> shocks, and eventually all the zilla products

PJ Grady shocks rule!  But consider finding an upgrade for your OEM front
lower control arms.  When you swap the springs you have done all of the hard
work to removing/replacing the arms.  Either have them boxed and the ends
reinforced, replace them with reproductions, or inspect them periodically
for stress fractures.  I have never seen anyone post to the DML the make &
model of a decent internal spring compressor that works for the front
suspension.  If you find one out, let us know!  I need one.

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 00:41:43 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <>
Subject: AZ club meeting...

I'd like to thank Randall, Ryan, and the rest of the AZ club for inviting me out to visit them during one of their DeLorean events this past weekend. I got to meet a great bunch of people who were very friendly and welcoming. Jim Reeve, who I finally got to meet, came out too... as did Ken Koncelik, and Rob and Debbie Grady. I had a great time during my stay. Special thanks to my friend Matt O. who invited me into his new, and really schaweet, home in AZ. My only wish was that I could've stayed a little longer, but unfortunately my schedule didn't permit it. However, if I am invited back and I can indeed go, I'll be sure to make arrangements to stay longer. It's really beautiful out there and everyone is very friendly... especially the club members!!! Thanks guys! Special thanks to Rich who welcomed me into his house and treated me like I was part of his family without hesitation. He, as well as other members, allowed me to look over their cars and make some minor repairs without any question. What a cool group. I hope to have many more experiences like this in the near future.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 01:35:07 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <>
Subject: slide scanner & photography services

If anyone has any original 35mm slides or negatives of anything to do with
John DeLorean, the man, the car or the company, I would like you to know
that I have a high quality digital slide/negative scanner.  I've tried
bidding on slides & negatives on eBay, but I keep getting outbid.  I hope
whoever gets this stuff will put it to the highest & best use and not hide
it or loose it before they die of old age.  (sarcasm)  If anyone wants
anything like this scanned in a high quality fashion and make it public
domain, I'm your man.  If you have larger format stuff, in about a year I
will have my dark room put back together where I will have everything needed
to do extremely high quality large color prints.  Keep that in mind 'for the

Walt    Tampa, FL


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:30:05 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding the CPR

It can be reconditioned. Rich recently had his done by Ken Mills Petrol 
Injection in London at a cost of 120. It came back looking brand new. 
You can have a go at cleaning it out, but we couldn't manage to get this 
sucker to work despite cleaning it thoroughly. I have no idea what 
caused to malfunction, but it's fine now.


cdrugly wrote:

>Has anyone had luck simply rebuilding/cleaning their CPR or is it 
>generally better to replace it?


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 06:42:32 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <>
Subject: RE: Rotary engine

How about posting some pictures.  What are the HP and Torque specs. for this
3 rotor conversion
Scott Mueller

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Strickland []
Subject: Re: [DML] Rotary engine

Both of you guys are too late, unless you want to be second.

I've already fitted my 3-rotor cosmo to my porsche 6-speed transmission
and modified the frame to fit both in. 

Jim (learning japanese)
1537- frankenlorean... It's alive!!! alive!!!


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:23:36 EST
Subject: Re: completely adjusting throttle linkage

Andy, I would adjust the lower idle screw when the car is warm, Only because 
when it's cold the idle speed motor air passage should be open. So: when the 
car is warm, adjust the lower screw to the idle you desire ( mine by the tack 
is 850-900 ) then adjust the upper screw to actuate the switch, you should 
hear it click when you turn the screw in. There is a picture on the site and 
this info in other words is in the technical manual, if still not right, then 
you would have to trouble shoot for motor problems, air leak, or bad 
Hope this helps
John Hervey


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:28:46 EST
Subject: Re: cold running problem

Andy, Did he replace the warm up regulator.


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:52:27 EST
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)

Walt and others, If the battery light on the dash doesn't come on when the 
key is in the 2nd position right before start, the alternator will not 
receive the sensing voltage to start activation. Can you believe, one little 
light buld will make your gauge read you have a bad alternator. I have lost 
some sales over that. The bulb was bad and is being replaced.
John hervey


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 09:38:35 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <>
Subject: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question

Mark posted the link to the DMCNEWS article about the starter solenoid
upgrade for VINs earlier than 2547.
(  The page states:
"This condition is generally displayed by a clicking noise at the solenoid
without any starter cranking."

I had a similar problem (no start), but I did not have the solenoid clicking
sound.  The voltage dropped between 2 and 3 volts while attempting to start,
but there was no solenoid clicking or starting at all.  I'm pretty sure I
had fuel pump and freq valve action.  The battery was fully charged, but
dropped to about 9 volts when turning the key (I had a voltmeter monitoring
the harness voltage, not the dash gauge).  All the fuses were fine.   I
could not start the car for about 30-40 minutes... then all of a sudden it
just started up - I have no idea why.  I've started the car about 20 times
since then without any problems.  Should I do the solenoid update?  If it
wasn't that, what could it have been?


-Hank #1619


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