From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 923
Date: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 10:45 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Storing CD's in car..
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

3. timing chains
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. ST. PAT'S DAY PARADE
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>

5. RE: ETDOC Event on March 9/10
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

6. dictionary term (worthless post) / watch
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>

7. Re: Rotary engine
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

8. Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

10. Re: Rotary engine
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

11. CarFax
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

12. Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

13. Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: cold running problem
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash_at_dml_optonline.net>

15. Hey - DMC Houston
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

16. removed alarm, now battery light on all the time
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>

17. winter brake fluid leakage update
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

18. Re: Storing CD's in car..
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>

19. The DMC as a Classic
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: winter brake fluid leakage update
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

22. Oxygen Sensor & LAMBDA Counter.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

23. Re: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

24. RE: door opener actuators
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

25. Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:33:44 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Storing CD's in car..

Hey List,

     I was just wondering what everyone who has a CD player in their car uses 
to store their CDs?  This weekend I plan to replace my original ASI radio 
with a CD player and I am looking for a sunvisor mounted storing thing for my 
CDs but haven't found anything yet.  Does anyone have a kind that they got 
that seems to work for them?  I was thinking of getting the kind that has the 
elastic band that goes around the visor and then just unscrew one of the 
screws that secures the visor to the roof, slide that elastic band on the 
visor and then screw it back in.  Or also maybe one of the ones that clip 
onto the visor.  Just wondering if anyone has something that they found in a 
catalog or something that I could get the information to order one.  Thanks!

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:56:28 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question

> If it wasn't that, what could it have been?

A bad ground.  Check the negative battery cable going from the battery to
the frame.  The wire could be loose in the connector or there could be
corrosion between the connector and the frame.  The reason I come up with
this explanation is due to the intermittent low voltage condition.  An
intermittently bad battery could be the cause, too.  (I had a battery in
another car that would only go bad when the car was hot.)  If the voltage
wasn't going low then I would suspect a bad connection in the starter
solenoid circuit.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:06:01 -0500
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: timing chains

Have any of you ever had trouble with your timing chains or tensioners. Have 
they ever started making ticking noises. Could they be a problem on a 30,000 
mile car?

Casey at chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:31:39 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>
Subject: ST. PAT'S DAY PARADE


The Southeastern Delorean Owner" club will be participating in the 
ATLANTA Parade.

The parade will take place on Saturday March 16th at about 11:00am in 
ATLANTA GA.

All Deloreans in the area are invited to join with SEDOC on this 
festive day.

DETAILS CAN BE READ ON WWW.STPATSATLANTA.COM.

INTERESTED PARTIES CAN REACH ME AT 404 562 6075 OR 770 985 9476

RE:

JOHN JORDAN
PRESIDENT
SEDOC




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:47:06 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: RE: ETDOC Event on March 9/10

I am looking forward to the ETDOC get together this will be my first
delorean get together of any  type.  I have already sign up for the dyno,
and recruited a couple of people to help make some repairs to my D early
saturday morning before we go to the dyno.  It should be a great weekend,
can't wait to see everyone.

Willie Mack
Vin 5043



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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:17:10 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>
Subject: dictionary term (worthless post) / watch

Mark:

Perhaps we can combine other words to form one that accurately describes
the "DeLorean owners who spend more money on their 'D' than their bank
account allows."

How about "DeLoreanthoverdrawnist"?

To the person who mentioned the DeLorean watch: the website is
deloreantime.com, which also featues bits of an interview with DeLorean
talking about the new car(s). However, to my knowledge it hasn't been
updated since it first appeared. No new info since I first looked at it
about a year or so ago.

All the best,
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
'98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:06:01 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Rotary engine

I will post some pictures of the 3-rotor at  yahoogroups.com- photos-
3rotor when yahoo decides it is uploading again.

The dash is  "off" so there's not much to see.  I'll get another picture
up there when I get power to it again.  Plus, it's not mounted, so it's a
little cocked.

The Japanese claim 280HP, but only because that's the street-legal limit
in Japan.  It's supposedly more like 300HP.  Torque figures:
	288 ft-lb at 2200 rpm
	297 ft-lb at 3000 rpm (peak)
	270 ft-lb at 7000 rpm (redline)

Jim



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 21:24:37 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla

Don't be so disappointed! Watch the fuel gauge in your daily driver 
when you accelerate, turn, and brake. The only time it is close to 
accurate is either when you are parked or travelling straight for a 
period of time on a LEVEL road. Also I have noticed on many cars the 
fuel gauge is not calibrated to operate lineraly i.e. it stay on full 
way too long ang then when it does start moving it drops like a rock. 
I guess they try to fool you into believing it isn't using so much 
fuel most of the time. The best thing to do is crosscheck against the 
trip odometer and know the average fuel consumption. $300 is a lot for 
a working fuel gauge but at least it isn't critical for safety. This 
is something you can save up for after you spend all your money on the 
other more required repairs like the cooling system and the brakes. No 
one buys a Delorean because they are cheap to maintain and repair!!!!
Just imagine what the bill would come to if you took your daily driver 
into the dealer to fix a bad fuel level indicater. After his $70/ hour 
rate, the obscene list prices on the parts, and the week it takes to 
get parts you won't come out any cheaper. At least this can be done on 
a "D" without dropping the tank!!!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DHughes030_at_dml_a... wrote:
>        I have a recently (December) purchased fuel sender from 
Delorean one and it too, swings too wildly on turns and accel's. from stops.  I 
was pretty disappointed in it given that it cost nearly $300.
> 
>        Don




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:34:44 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question


I just checked, and low and behold, the starter solenoid update had already
been done on my car.  So the problem was not that specific issue.  Any other
ideas what would cause a no-start, no-starter problem I described earlier?

As always, thanks in advance!

-Hank  #1619





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 21:43:49 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Rotary engine

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Chris Boden" <cboden_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> >> Already working on it :) Once we locate an old DeLorean to get 
> >donated (HELP!) The Geek Group plans to refit it with a Mazda 
rotary engine or possibly even a 3-rotor Cosmo engine :)


> >Good luck on that! I really hate to bring anyone down, but chances 
> >are that you're not going to get anyone to donate an item of that 
> >size and type to you. 
> >1. Unless you are an established non-profit organization, you 
> >probably wont get any bites. 


> No problem :) The Geek Group is not only a 501(c)(3) certified non-
profit corporation, but with membership in 14 countries and 28 states 
we're the largest of our type on Earth :)



In that case, it sounds like you're in a good position! Perhaps you 
may want to try taking an ad out in Hemmings stating what you need. 
Good luck, I hope it works out for you! :)

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:03:57 -0500
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: CarFax

Ok all ..
 
I did the 2 month unlimited with car fax ..
 
So if any of you would like a report .. let me know ..
 
Send your vins! 
 
:-)
 
Just another friendly Canadian .
 
 
Kenneth
05541



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 23:34:06 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)

This problem has come up a lot in the past. Maybe the vendors who 
sell aftermarket alternators designed for the D supply a bulb with 
it? The bulbs are 20 years old and one can only guess when they are 
going to blow. Could you imagine getting stuck on the side of a road 
because of a bulb?!

Steve




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 23:39:07 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question

Mine's early enough to need the mod, and I haven't done it. It frequently does the "click
but no start" as I drive it once a week or less and leave it standing in between. I also
have the Ducey alternator and haven't put an enormous amount of energy into finding a
replacement.

When I get the problem, I find turning the key to the last position repeatedly eventually
kicks the starter into life. On the upside, the car always starts within 2 seconds, and
FWIW, the Ducey holds the voltage at over 13 when the engine revs. (When dropping to an
idle with the headlights on results in the beams dimming!).

I have a bit of a shopping list for when I'm out in Memphis!

Martin
#1458



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:59:20 -0500
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: cold running problem

Andy,
I have the exact same symptom! Well, almost:
First I want to point out that I always give my cars at least 60 seconds
before putting it in gear, hot or cold. My friends look at me like I'm nuts
(they don't call me Pistachio for nothing). They're like "dude, what are you
waiting for?" While I stare into space. They just don't understand.
All my cars run perfectly theirs run like crap.
Anyway,
1. It starts, ice cold, on a dime every time without pressing the pedal.
2. It then does the hunt thing for a minute or two and smoothes out to a
normal idle.
3. By this time there is plenty of hot air running through the heat stove
pipe. Hot to the touch.
4. The thing just won't rev up though. Sometimes I'll even hear a backfire
from the air cleaner while trying to give it gas. I just have to wait it out
and then she's fine.
My '74 Duster (318) did that and rebuilding the carburetor fixed it. Not the
case here. I miss my Duster!
Because I'm used to letting an engine know it's alive before putting it to
work it's no big deal to me to wait a little longer. If it gets worse I'll
attempt to see what's up with it.
I just bought the car last week from Grady and they did a full tune-up. They
also replaced the accumulator.
If you find out what it is please let me know. Vice versa.
Thanks.

Tony Pistachio
#10781 BDX-6324
Wappingers Falls, NY




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:10:32 -0800
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Hey - DMC Houston

Hey - DMC Houston
   Any plans this year for having another open house? I have sent several emails to your website with no answer so I tryed here in case your email wasnt working.

Thanks
Mark




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 19:48:06 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>
Subject: removed alarm, now battery light on all the time

I had this problem occur this past spring, and had not attempted to
rectify it until now.
 
I had an alarm put in by a now defunct company, who also is 50 miles
away from where I live now so it really doesn't matter.  I had a local
company remove it last spring, since I never leave it anywhere to be
concerned.  Well after they got done cutting and pulling out the wires,
the battery light popped on, and will not go off.  I took it back to
them and they looked at it, but cannot seem to see what they did.  
 
Any ideas?
 
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
1981 DeLorean Vin 3461 August 1981 Build (Ours)
http://www.sacketmansion.com/delorean
1988 Jaguar XJS-C V-12 (Mine) http://www.sacketmansion.com/jaguar
1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 (work)
2001 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 (daily driver)
2001 PT Cruiser (Hers)
Visit us at http://www.sacketmansion.com <http://www.sacketmansion.com/>

 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:29:37 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: winter brake fluid leakage update

Hello All,

  Thanks to everyone who responded about my cold-weather brake fluid
leakage.  Taking advantage of the 60 degree weather today, I went out to
solve some winter issues with my D.  It appears that the leak is definitely
coming from where the reservoir is bolted to the power assist booster.  And
as expected, the top edge of the fuel tank is "wet" (more like a thin sludge
coating).   I checked for signs of the brake fluid affecting the frame
epoxy, and sure enough, along the left edge (see photos) where the lower
panel bolts to the frame, the epoxy is starting to wrinkle and has come off
on just the edge...but no rust yet.  Also, there appears to be some slight
epoxy wear on the rear right corner of the panel.

Now, two questions:  First, what needs to be fixed to stop the leak?  Do I
need to replace the entire master cylinder/reservoir/booster?  Is there just
a gasket to be replaced?  Something in between?

Second, what should I do to fix the areas of epoxy deterioration?  (I'll
search the archives, too).  Can I just onbolt the lower panel, and clean up
the affected areas and re-epoxy? (Of course, I remember reading about the
POR-15 product, which I'll also search for).  Is this something I can do
myself in a day or so, or is it going to be a much more involved project?

Here are some photos:
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/frame1.JPG
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/frame2.JPG
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/frame3.JPG  (notice the epoxy deterioration
abruptly stops here, the next section is clean - but a little blurry).
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/frame4.JPG

Thanks,

-Hank #1619




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 01:06:30 +0000
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Storing CD's in car..

I have a nice little metal case (stainless, of course) that holds 24 CD's.  
It slides really neatly behind the passenger seat...about the easiest thing 
I know of


Scott




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:17:33 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: The DMC as a Classic

No this is not an advertisement for the Memphis Car Show.

We have talked for years about our cars as a Classic.  Its interesting 
because the car is barely 20 years old and is being classified as a "Future 
Classic"

What makes a car a classic,
For one - time.
And 20 years is hardly time.
Then it has to be desireable like the 55 T-Bird or unique like the Gullwing 
Mercedes or it has to be an oddball that was so odd it became a classic over 
time like the Edsel and of course rare and well publicized like the Tucker.

Well one thing they all had in common was they were popular for one reason or 
another with the public.

Where does the DeLorean fit in.

Eventually I think we will find many of them in museums but in the mean time 
we have a car that is unique in itself that after 20 years it can still be 
driven as a daily driver.  

I just talked to a new owner today and he bought a 20 year old car ----

for a daily driver.

Most cars in this 20 year range are undergoing restoration and are considered 
future collection pieces. Or they are beaters.  Anyone have a 1969-80 
anything that didn't rust?  Our cars are not only on the road and running but 
they are doing it every day and most have been without major restorations. 

We have an 89 Mustang 5.0L GT Convertable and an 85 Jaguar and neither of 
them get the attention of the D.
By the way both the Jag and the Mustang take more maintenance than the D ever 
has. The Jag is expensive and the Mustang is every day repairs although I 
wouldn't trade either.

Our car is a Classic on wheels and as it ages gracefully it will take its 
place in the museums as a car that made millions of people of ALL ages, smile 
everytime they saw it.  The Gull wings doors and the movies don't hurt 
either.  But even without the movies the car is destined to be one of the 
most widely recognized cars in the world.  Generation after generation know 
the car and will be in the museums to see it along with the other classics:

Unless they are still driving them.

My point is enjoy driving your Classic  its a rare bird (with wings)

See you in Memphis

Ken

<A HREF="http://deloreancarshow.com">DeLoreancarshow.com</A>
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:24:29 EST
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla

       Dave, 
  I'm a Ford tech and my customers would not put up with a fuel gauge 
swinging as wildly as the D does with the tankzilla.  Modern cars (Fords 
anyway)  utilize an "anitslosh" module to stabilize the gauge.  Thats what I 
thought the additional electronics that come with the tankzilla were for.  I 
find tankzilla lacking in that respect.
       Don, VIN# 6860



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 02:19:48 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: winter brake fluid leakage update

For your leak....you will want to detrmine where it is coming from. 
Cracked resivoir (I doubt), broken hose going from the resivour, Bad 
master cylinder. Once you have determined exaclty where it is coming 
from then replace/repair. 

As for the epoxy coating...POR-15 is the best solution. I had my 
entire chassis sand blasted of all the old epoxy and I painted my 
entire chassis along with all my suspension parts (including 
springs) and it's amaizing. For your touch up you can get a small 
can of it, a little goes a looooonng way. Scrape all the 
soft/wrinkled epoxy off and use a good degreaserto clean all the 
brake fluid off.

The site where you can get it from is www.por15.com. They are 
located in NJ.

If you have any questions on doing this drop me a line.

Steve 




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 04:07:57 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Oxygen Sensor & LAMBDA Counter.

Las week I replaced my old Oxygen Sensor, and reset the LAMBDA 
counter. By everything I've seen with other posts, I was prepared for 
a hard task. Quite the opposite. This has been quite possibly the 
easiest repair I've ever done. The Oxygen Sensor came out with a 
slight tug from a cresent wrench. A little anti seize compound on the 
threads, and the new one went in. Fishing the wire thru the chassis 
and into the ECU compartment was a breeze. If you pull the plug 
inwards, out of the hole, you can dis/reconnect the Sensor wire very 
quickly.

The LAMBDA counter was fairly simple as well. I disconnected the 
upper & lower speedo cables, the electrical wires for both the 
counter, and the inertia switch (wrong place, I know). Remove the two 
bolts that hold the bracket, and simply pull. A pair of needle nose 
pliers, and the counter was reset. I was even able to lube up the 
lower speedo cable with some lithium grease after I accidently pulled 
it out. Even though I had to move my car with the cables disconnected 
to get more comfortable position, everything then reconnected almost 
as easily as it came apart.

Just thought I would share my expierence with everyone here on the 
list. Admittedly, I was a bit intimidated by what I've read from 
other posts. I had a propane torch on hand just in case. Although I 
did let the car idle for about 2-3 minutes before I climbed 
underneath. But it was for the most part a simple task. And ever 
since, my gas milage has improved tremedously!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:37:51 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla

> The only time it is close to
> accurate is either when you are parked or travelling straight for a
> period of time on a LEVEL road.

I disagree with this to differing degrees.

The Tankzilla is VERY accurate when still and remains accurate with the fuel
sloshing in the tank IF most of the holes in the bottom are restricted.  The
idea is to allow fuel to enter/exit the sender very slowly but not to
restrict the openings so much that they clog.  This is easily done with a
little creative epoxy work.

The OEM sender is another issue.  What makes it less accurate than the
Tankzilla is that the float moves up & down on an insulated rod that is
wrapped with a coil of resistive wire.  This wire isn't always wrapped on
the rod with the best of care.  Some loops of it short-circuit with adjacent
loops.  If it wasn't wrapped very tight, then sections of it can sag or
bunch up.  This can give non-linear readings.  Also the way the float makes
an electrical connection with the resistive wire is unstable and can
contribute to inaccurate readings.

> Also I have noticed on many cars the
> fuel gauge is not calibrated to operate linearly i.e. it stay on full
> way too long ang then when it does start moving it drops like a rock.

Now with typical Fords & GM cars that I am used to driving, these are
anything but linear.  I always find the scale to be logarithmic such that
FULL means full, 3/4 gauge means you have half a tank left, 1/2 gauge means
you have about 1/4 tank left and 1/4 gauge means you are almost empty.  (I
charted this with a Ford on a long trip.  BTW, I'm a Libra, and so is my
DeLorean, Sept '81 build -- always weighing & measuring!)  This is not the
case with the Tankzilla in the DeLorean.  The DeLorean's fuel tank has a
linear volume vertically, and the Tankzilla's resistive wire is a tight
U-shaped loop that leaves no room for slop.

I want to see someone make a solid-state fuel sender that works on the
principle of interelectrode capacitance or perhaps sonar.  I've seen sonar
setups work for monitoring fluid levels in cryogenic storage liquid nitrogen
bottles.  The same concept would make an excellent fuel $ender.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 19:43:22 -0800
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: door opener actuators

Michael said  "The actuators I've seen max out at
15lb. of pull. If Darryl has or knows where to get actuators with more pull
force. Then try his. I don't think that 15lb. is good enough, thats why I
swapped out my Solenoids for bigger ones."

Try pulling up on your inner or outer door release handle with one finger.  If it takes more than the 15lb. pull my actuators have, you have some other things to fix before going for remote opening doors.  Why put in a 5 or 6 pound solenoid that draws heavy amperage and adds unnecessary weight when a 4 ounce motorized actuator will do the job?  I have sold lots of them and have not had a return or complaint yet.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
 


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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 23:32:20 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)

Steve, I have no idea of what vendors your talking about with the aftermarket 
alternators, 
But I think it's a great idea. So from now on, The Delorean D150 ( 150 amp ) 
alternator, sold by Special T Auto.com  will come with an extra bulb with a 
letter of explanation. It already comes with a longer bolt and a locking nut 
and heat resistance fiber tubing to cover the wires and a 3 year warranty.
Thanks for the Marketing Idea.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/alternators.shtml



<< This problem has come up a lot in the past. Maybe the vendors who 
 sell aftermarket alternators designed for the D supply a bulb with 
 it? The bulbs are 20 years old and one can only guess when they are 
 going to blow. Could you imagine getting stuck on the side of a road 
 because of a bulb?!
 >>



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