From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 926
Date: Friday, March 01, 2002 1:49 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. 140 mph speedo
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

3. Re: RE: door opener actuators
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

4. Money saving offer!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

5. Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. timing chain trouble? what's this sound?
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Resurrected Barn Relic
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

8. Looking for alternative parts source
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES
From: "Graham WELLS" <gwells_at_dml_totalise.co.uk>

10. Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Oxygen Sensor & LAMBDA Counter.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

13. A/C conversion
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

14. floor mats and rattling
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: cold running problem
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

17. Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

19. Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)
From: "graves_14" <tylergraves_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Don't give up on your original horns
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Arizona DeLorean Club
From: "Daniel Silverman" <dans_at_dml_cox.net>

23. Re: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)
From: hugo mederos <miami5606_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. RE: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

25. RE: Arizona DeLorean Club
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_cox.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:20:45 EST
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: 140 mph speedo

Where can I find the 140 mph speedo mask mentioned in the "zine" article? 



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:51:26 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)

I just made the suggestion to replace the bulb (a good one in fact) 
as a preventive maintenance, they are 20 years old if they are 
original. We all suggest to do the same with the fuses, replace 
them  even if they are not bad to avoid the overheating problem the 
fuse block has with dirty contacts on the fuse blades.

Also I don't believe the "no bulb" or "bad bulb syndrome" hampers 
the OEM alternators. If I'm wrong correct me here. I think it has to 
do with the way it's wired up AND the new regulators that are in the 
new alternators. They need that "sense" that the bulb sends to them. 
I don't think the original alternators regulator really cared about 
it.

Steve

-



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:11:19 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: RE: door opener actuators

I'll let Darryl answer with the details if he chooses, but let me just 
say that the beauty of his setup is that the compactness of the actuators he uses permits them to be snugly mounted in a very small space that has an ideal
geometry for pulling the latch mechanism with maximum transfer of
force.  These actuators really aren't working hard at all. I do not 
expect mine to fail in my lifetime.

As I have attested before, I have found Darryl's solution to the door 
opener problem to be simple, elegant, inexpensive, and completely reliable.
I have nothing to compare it to, but I really can't imagine any other 
approach being an improvement.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:13:38 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Money saving offer!

The current price to join the DOA is $72, was $60.  I was not going to
re-up anyway, a picture book of cars with their doors up turns me off.
I think it's a terrific looking car with the doors closed...said that
before, doors are to get in and out of.

Now, instead of saving $60 I'm saving $72.  ( I may soon be as wealthy
as Dick Ryan).

Les




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:02:20 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES

> As I attempt to start the engine, the No7 fuse blows.

Try unplugging/disconnecting each part that is on this fuse.  Of course the
engine won't run this way, but if it stops the fuse from blowing, then
reconnect each device one-at-a-time.  When the fuse blows, you found the bad
part.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:06:19 -0500
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: timing chain trouble? what's this sound?

I am wondering if any of you have had or heard of either your timing chains 
or timing chain tensioners having trouble and perhaps making a ticking 
sound. My motor has 32,000mi on it and after I changed my oil to 10w-40 from 
the 20w-50 I had in before I could hear this mechanical ticking sound that I 
do not beleive to be valves or lifters, they were all adjusted 3000mi ago. I 
mean, this motor has 32,000mi on it and has been taken care of well, why 
should I have an internal engine problem? Have any of you put a slightly 
lighter weight oil in and noticed any more mechanical noises like this. I am 
going to listen to it with a stethescope today and see what I can hear. I 
didn't find any plastic or any debris in the old oil I drained out, but I 
gotta figure this noise out, most people would never notice it but it is 
freaking me out! You all know how it is once you notice something you can't 
stop listening to it untill it goes away.

Sincerely, freaked out Casey at chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:33:38 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Resurrected Barn Relic

Hello List - I wanted to alert those of you who may be interested that 
I have uploaded a photo into the "Peoples Cars" folder in the Photo 
section, 

This car was found last November in a barn in rural Washington, with 
bales of hay stacked on it, rats and mice living in it, and it had 
been standing for at least 9 years.  The engine had many issues, there 
was substantial deterioration in the fuel system, there are chassis 
issues, and widespread corrosion of the electrical system and brakes.  
All that said ... check it out!  Note the new wheels - 18" in the 
rear, and 17" in front, with low profile rubber.  The gentleman 
in the drivers seat is the proud owner of this machine.  Caution - the 
wheel offsets required a great deal of work to make right!  Do not 
try this at home.

Toby Peterson (I have VIN 2248, this VIN I'm not sure of)
Winged1




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:43:05 -0000
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Looking for alternative parts source

The prices for many items from the reglar vendors just aren't 
palateable to me.

I have seen a cross-reference list for a number of items, some of 
which I have utilized.

Two items, I simply can not figure out:

Right side Steering Rack Boot ($80, plus at D vendors for a boot!)

Hood struts at a local place (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advance, NAPA?)

Anybody got good part numbers and vendors?

Thanks.

-Steve #3302





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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:05:11 -0000
From: "Graham WELLS" <gwells_at_dml_totalise.co.uk>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES

Have you tried starting the engine with the fuel pump disconnected at
the pump. If the fuse still blows there could be a short to earth in
the power wire to the pump.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Haslewood" <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>
Subject: [DML] ELECTRICAL BLUES

> I'm currently having a problem with the electrical system and would be
> grateful if someone might be able to offer some advice or perhaps a
> solution.



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 22:12:31 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question

Both answers can be found here

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/starterfix.html

My car exhibits these symptoms regularly, and both yours and mine left the factory prior
to the modification (prior to 2547). Only the other day I was asked "why do you always
put your VIN number at the end of your posts?"...

Martin
#1458

tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> What is a starter solenoid upgrade?  How can I tell if I have that installed?
> Thanks
> Bill
> #2157




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:58:07 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge

The fuel guage is an ohm-meter. It measures the resistance of a coil whose endpoint
changes as the float travels up and down. When you disconnect the sender, the resistance
is infinite (open circuit) so your guage points strait up. Check the connector to the
sender, and give it a clean. If it continues to happen, it's probably the internals of
the sender going bad.

This is the first car I've seen where the fuel guage works continuously, even when the
engine's off. (note to self: check wiring diagram....)

Martin
#1458

Willie Mack wrote:

> This morning when I started my D up to go to class the fuel gauge was pegged
> straight up.  Luckly when I came back from class around noon and started her
> up again, everything was back to normal. Is this something that I should be
> concerned with or just come to expect on really cold mornings.
>
> Thanks
>   Willie Mack
>   Vin 5043




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 00:02:24 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor & LAMBDA Counter.

Interesting, I was actually going to ask this very question today! 
I've never done a valve adjustment before, so I was curious as to 
how diffucult it would be to remove the rocker covers, and 
perform the adjustments. The biggest thing seems to be simply 
holding the A/C compressor up, and out of the way. I've never 
done this before, but I do understand the procedure from what 
I've read in the Service Manual, and from Volvo books as well. So 
we'll see how it goes! So far, I have planed to replace the 
alternator, rocker cover gaskets (leaks), and the muffler bracket 
in the back as well. So I should be able to get this done in one 
day, and all at once!

As for my O2 Sensor, it was fried. I've not been thru the "best of 
times" with my motor. Everything from a disconnected Frequency 
Valve, to an overheated engine, to misfires that have caused my 
Cat to glow red. There was soot on the sensor threads when I 
pulled it out. But, that PRV still runs strong, and can still give 
other cars on the road a run for their money. But, anti-seize 
compound was, and always is used sparingly. No matter if it's 
the O2 sensor, or the sparkplugs.

As for the rest of the car, all new ignition parts have been 
installed. I just now need to do a fluid change, and I'm set!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:45:04 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: A/C conversion

hello everyone,

last summer my A/C system wasn't functioning so i took it in to my local shop 
to have them inspect everything for leaks.  turns out pretty much everything 
is leaking on it.  if i were to buy all new A/C parts, it would cost me a 
small fortune.  how easy is it to substitute the entire system with modern 
R-134a components?  how much will that cost and how easy is it to make 
everything work?  

i talked to Rob Grady about just new refrigerant lines that run under the car 
and he can supply me with new lines with removable ends so you don't need to 
lift the frame from the body to replace them.  also his lines are built to 
134a specs.

i know it's been done before, any comments?
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:08:57 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: floor mats and rattling

ok, i just drove my car for the first time with dmc houston's floor mats in
it. they look great but...is there a seperate shape for automatic cars vs manual... my clutch doesn't go down all the way with the mat in...
anyone had a similar experience?

secondly.
there is a rattling coming from the driver side front of the car... could be
outside or inside. i removed the gas flap and took her for a spin.. still rattled. i glued down the loose weather stripping in the trunk... still rattled. i raise the trunks supports (litte rubber topped nuts on each side) still rattled... could be inside.... any ideas.




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:58:06 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: cold running problem

In a message dated 2/26/02 11:42:36 AM Central Standard Time, dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:


> Andy, Did he replace the warm up regulator.
> 

no, the warm up regulator was tested and deemed acceptable.  every component 
of the fuel system in the engine bay was cleaned and tested.  i do not have 
any of the results however.  I am sure Rob would have recommended that i 
replace it if there was any question as to its performance however.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 00:55:06 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES

Might be a longshot, but try unpluggining the Control Pressure 
Regulator. On my car, the heater wires inside had melted their 
insulation, and were grounding themselves to the metal walls of 
the unit. And thus it was blowing the same fuse in my car. 
Although, my situation was a bit different. My fuse was only 
blowing durring right turns. Inertia was forcing the wire to swing 
left, and ground itself. But that doesn't mean that it may not be 
the same thing on your car. It's a free, quick test to try.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_z...> wrote:
> I'm currently having a problem with the electrical system and 
would be 
> grateful if someone might be able to offer some advice or 
perhaps a 
> solution.  As I attempt to start the engine, the No7 fuse blows.  
This fuse 
> powers the Lambda Relay, Lambda ECU, Frequency Valve, 
Fuel Pump and Control 
> Pressure Regulator. Relay No28 (Start Inhibit) is also powered 
via Fuse No 7.
<SNIP>




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:29:33 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question

In a message dated 2/28/02 12:52:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
tonilfhs98_at_dml_aol.com writes:

<< How can I tell if I have that installed? >>
Bill,

    The easiest way to see if you have it installed is to take a look in your 
electrical compartment.  You should see 2 circuit breakers near the fuse box. 
 If one circuit breaker has 2 wires on it, and the other one has 4 wires on 
it, then you have the update done.  If one has 2 and the other has 3, then 
the update was not done.  

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:35:39 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge

In a message dated 2/28/02 1:05:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, wmack_at_dml_vt.edu 
writes:

<< This morning when I started my D up to go to class the fuel gauge was 
pegged
 straight up.  >>
Willie,

     First off...is this an OEM sender?  When there isn't a sending unit 
connected to the fuel gauge, the needle points straight up.  So that might 
mean that when you first started the car up, somehow the wire connection at 
the fuel guage sender above the tank wasn't making contact.  Try cleaning 
that wiring connection and that might solve your problem that your not having 
anymore  :)

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 02:53:46 -0000
From: "graves_14" <tylergraves_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)

I'm attempting to install the front spring and shock kit from P.J. 
Grady. My trouble is stating off early. How exactly do I seperate the 
lower ball joint from the steering knuckle? I've got the nut off with 
no trouble but it doesn't want to seperate! I've put some pressure on 
it from the weight of the car, but no luck.

I've also read that it is suggested to remove the TOP nut and ball 
joint from the knuckle rather than the bottom like the manual says. 
Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Tyler #3472




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:14:36 EST
From: FEHRISMANN_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Don't give up on your original horns

Steve,

Interesting note about the mud wasps.  But I'm surprised that your horn goes 
Honk.  I think mine is "normal" but it certainly doesn't go Honk.  If 
anything it goes a very meek beep-beep.  Absolutely no testosterone.  It's 
really quite laughable.  Hey List, is my horn the wrong tone or is it normal?

Frank
16509  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 04:41:35 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL BLUES

The very first thing to do is a THOURGH visual inspection. Start with 
the wiring in the engine compartment as it is subjected to high temps 
and possible pinch points. Look for cut or caught wires, bare spots, 
brittle insulation, wires sticking out or bad repairs, even wires 
going to the wrong places. Disconnect the CPR and pull the Lambda 
relay. Try running the fuel pump. If it still blows inspect the wiring 
to the fuel pump, someone may have made a mess of it trying to bypass 
the inertia switch. Disconnect the fuel pump and see if the fuse 
holds. It is also a good idea to measure the draw on #7 as if it is 
really high it indicates a direct short probably somewhere in the 
wiring. If it is really high disconnect one thing at a time till it 
goes away. If it doesn't then you will have to follow the wire (N) 
brown until you find the source of the trouble. Don't get tempted to 
try to use a larger fuse, you are not fixing the problem and might set 
yourself up for an electrical fire. For short term troubleshooting 
find a 20A circuit breaker so you don't use up a lot of fuses but 
don't leave it in. Carefully inspect the wiring terminals in the 
fuseblock at #7 as that circuit has melted in some cars and bypass 
fuses (external to the fuseblock) have been known to be installed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_z...> wrote:
> I'm currently having a problem with the electrical system and would 
be grateful if someone might be able to offer some advice or perhaps a 
> solution. 



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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:29:49 -0700
From: "Daniel Silverman" <dans_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Arizona DeLorean Club

Does the Arizona DeLorean Club have a webpage?

Just curious.

Daniel




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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:10:10 -0800 (PST)
From: hugo mederos <miami5606_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)


They have a tool that you can barrow from your local
parts store.
Like autozone,checkers,napa ect.
I believe it wedges in and you tap it out 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion!
http://greetings.yahoo.com



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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:11:09 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)

You need a ball joint puller.  Or you could soak it with 
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench for a few days.

Mike




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:27:19 -0700
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: RE: Arizona DeLorean Club

AZ-D member Derric Clark is currently working on building our web site.  We
have the domain registered; now we just have to get something on it.
www.az-d.org .

Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
Arizona DeLorean Club

-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Silverman [mailto:dans_at_dml_cox.net]

Does the Arizona DeLorean Club have a webpage?




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