From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 928
Date: Friday, March 01, 2002 11:13 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Noisy horns. (Or not.)
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>

2. Re: New Rear Tires
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

3. RE: http://www.DeLoreanFinance.com
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

4. Re: Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

5. porting, polishing & chroming intake manifold
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: New Rear Tires
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

7. Re: Open doors?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

9. Re: timing chain trouble? what's this sound?
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

10. Re: Open doors?
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

11. RE: door opener actuators
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

12. Re: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

13. Re: Re: Open doors?
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

14. Re: New Rear Tires
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. Re: timing chain trouble? what's this sound?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Stainless Steel Acid Resistance.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

17. Re: Re: Open doors?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.
From: E Grauff <datamonk_at_dml_svn.net>

19. James...the magazine?
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

20. Re: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off successfully)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

21. New Poll! What tires do you run?
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

22. Radio bracket from DMC Houston...
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

23. door opener actuators
From: "Michael Quinto" <mquinto_at_dml_mediaone.net>

24. Re: http://www.DeLoreanFinance.com
From: James Cluster <jamesbond1882_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. New Frame
From: "dmcburn75" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 14:46:32 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins_at_dml_uno.edu>
Subject: Noisy horns. (Or not.)

Frank, Steve, and others who were talking about the horns:

If you really want to be loud, I know it's possible to mount airhorns
behind the grilles of some modern cars. I think the kits cost anywhere
from $50 to as much as you want to spend. Most people mount them inside
the engine compartment and point them through the grille. How would this
be done in a DeLorean? Extra long cables, perhaps? Has anybody done it?
That should help you along with the testosterone poisoning, if that
really is your wish. Just pure idle speculation on my part. Personally I
don't think I would worry about the horn, but it's an interesting
thought.

Then again if you mount airhorns on your DeLorean, they could possibly
drown out the engine. Might not be too good if you're concerned with
testosterone. ;)

Maybe you could put airbrakes on the DeLorean, too, so when you pull up
to somebody at a light you can go "psssssssshhhh." :D

Take care, all ...

Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
'98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 15:46:13 -0800
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New Rear Tires

Bob,

I would stay with the Yokahamas if at all possible.  They seem to be the 
tire of choice for most of us.

Bill Lane
#3635

By the way,  it was nice to meet you when we delivered your car.




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:46:39 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: http://www.DeLoreanFinance.com

It is not owned by any of the people you list..  But by a guy in Denver.

Domain Name: DELOREANFINANCE.COM
 
 Administrative Contact:
    Rynerson, Stephen  




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:59:54 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge

> Mine works when the engine is off too, and it's OEM.

Are you sure?  When the engine is off, my gauge tends to rest where it was
when the car was running.  I don't call this working while the engine is
off; I call it rigor mortis.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 16:07:50 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: porting, polishing & chroming intake manifold

I certainly don't have time to do this anytime soon, but I've spent enough
time thinking about it that I thought I would ask some advice & opinions.

I have an extra intake manifold & Y-pipe that I would like to have tricked
out since I'm going to have my engine apart anyway to replace those leaky
water pump hoses that can't be reached while assembled.  The last thing I
want to do is put it back together the way it is now -- as rough as a cob,
corroded, dull & gray.  I'm thinking about polishing the Y-pipe (which of
course entails grinding down all the roughness & raised lettering - a lot of
work).  I want it to look as shiny as pieces of a polished chrome P-trap
from under a sink.  Would a finish like this hold up well?  Or would I be
better off just painting or powdercoating?  How about anodizing?

I've seen a photo of something like this on Don Steger's web site, but the
FX makes it hard to see.  http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/restoration.htm
Does anyone have any other photos of this or anything similar?  Please send
me some links or photos directly.

The insides are pretty rough too, and I'm wondering if there would be any
benefits from polishing there too.  Is this what they mean by porting &
polishing?  My guess is that it wouldn't even amount to a 1hp increase, but
that's just my guess.  Does anyone else know better?

BTW, I'm also considering a different design for the throttle spool cover
that would fit UNDER the Y-pipe.  The OEM one just looks like it doesn't
belong there and unbalances the symetry.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 21:25:33 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: New Rear Tires

Bob - The "barn relic" that I mentioned in a previous post has 
Yokohama AVS-db tires on it.  These are an all-new tire that is very 
impressive from all aspects.  I also installed a set on my daily 
driver (Dodge Intrepid).  I really like these tires, from a dry and 
wet handling perspective.  My next set of tires on Winged1 will be 
these tires, as well.  You might want to check them out. 

Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 21:32:55 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Open doors?

When I go to car shows I leave the doors up and people are immediatly 
drawn to the car. Since it is one of the trademark features of the car 
it makes it instantly recognizable. The Delorean is one of the FEW 
cars that are displayed with open doors being among Lamborginis, 
Mercedes, BMW, and assorted other Orphan Marques. This puts it in a 
special class with these other exotic cars which is why a painted 
Delorean is an oxymoron (IMHO). This does cause the problem of keeping 
people out (some seem to take an open door as an invitation) so I keep 
a trophy on 1 seat and Einstein on the other. This isn't a perfect 
solution as once a small kid bear-hugged Einstein and wouldn't let go 
till the parents pulled it away from him! Just install a battery 
switch so you can shut the car down, and stick any small stuff 
including the cig lighter into the "vault".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Les,
> 
> You bring up good point on why leave a DeLorean's doors open for no 
apparent





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 22:22:23 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)

Hmmm...the GM alternator that I installed has two seperate wires. 
One for the light and one for the sense. It was an easy splice since 
I had an old Ducy in there. My alternator is a 105amp unit from a 
chevy cavalier.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
<SNIP>
> The Ducellier had the light wire as well, but being a two wire 
system, the 
> sense voltage also came through the brown wire. 

> John hervey




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 22:25:13 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: timing chain trouble? what's this sound?

They automatically adjust with the use of tensioners. It is true 
that you can't mill the heads to much since it dosn't take up a hell 
of a lot of slack but it does adjust them.

Steve




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 23:56:26 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Open doors?

Same reason why rodders leave their hoods open (or take the hood 
off) to show off what's under it. With a Delorean it's showing it 
off at what it can do. Lambo, Bricklin, etc.. owners do it with 
their cars too.

Hell when my car was in peices and the only thing left on the car 
were the doors...I opened them up...showed them off to my neighbors 
and passer bys ;)


Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_j...> wrote:
> Les,
> 
> You bring up good point on why leave a DeLorean's doors open for 
no apparent reason.



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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:58:47 -0800
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: door opener actuators

Sure, Mike, I'd be glad to tell everyone the correct way to install door openers - just send $199 plus $5 postage and I'll make it very clear.

Seriously, I can't help but wonder why someone who has jerry-rigged maybe one set, then had to go back and re-do it because it didn't work right, would be taking me to task on this when I have successfully sold and installed dozens of kits over the last 10-12 years WITHOUT A SINGLE FAILURE OR COMPLAINT.  If you truly think your idea is better then go for it, but please don't tell me my method is inferior, or won't work.  As one satisfied customer pointed out it is simple, compact, and reliable.  You stated "Your door handles inner and outer are the easiest places to pull from.  Unfortunately you can't put your actuator or solenoid there."  Really?  Says who?  That happens to be exactly the correct place to pull from.  "I had tapped into the upper armature to open the doors with the my old 15's with the 50's I had to relocate to the bottom part of the armature."  What armature?  The only armature in the door is inside of the window motor.

My actuators, which are fairly common, are rated at 12-15lbs of pull.  When I get my newly acquired #2323 car home I plan to test the required pull weight of the door opening linkage and put this issue to bed.  I have never said that heavy solenoids won't work because they will, but they are not necessary or reliable.  I'm always open to ideas for improvements in my products, but unless you have a proven, reliable, and inexpensive solution I think I will stick with one that is.

Sorry if I'm a little testier than usual but I just got out of surgery yesterday and am still on some potent drugs.  I'll be back to my normal mellow state in a few days....

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 00:03:14 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off sucessfully)

You need a ball-joint tool;  The parts are a tapered fit so they're
tight, but a pain to remove.  The tool looks like a tuning fork and your
jam it between the parts you want to pry apart and whack it some.  Lots
of fun, but will split the boot if you're not careful.
You can rent one from autozone for free if you have one nearby- it's on
their list of rentable tools.

Jim 
1537 

"I'm here to help you"  until DMC Joe gets back


On Fri, 01 Mar 2002 02:53:46 -0000 "graves_14" <tylergraves_at_dml_hotmail.com>
writes:
> I'm attempting to install the front spring and shock kit from P.J. 
> Grady. My trouble is stating off early. How exactly do I seperate 
> the 



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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 16:49:56 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Open doors?

Joe, I'd love to respond to that but the moderators, bless 'em, would never let it
through (nor should they).

Les

Joe Thome wrote:

> Les,
>
> You bring up good point on why leave a DeLorean's doors open for no apparent
> reason. It's useful in drawing attention to the car for advertising purposes
> but in real life it's not necessary. People typically don't leave the doors
> open on a car with conventional side opening doors longer than necessary, so
> why do it on a DeLorean?
>
> Joe
> VIN 6467
>




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 00:59:34 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: New Rear Tires

I'm chuffed to bits with the Pirelli P600's I have on my D. I bought them as a set with P6000s on the front. The P600s are W rated an I believe are available in the US. Aren't the rear AVS's still available from www.tirerack.com? Last time I checked it was
the fronts that were scarce.

Martin
#1458
DOC UK

Bob Thomason wrote:

> I'm the new owner of #5252. It needs new tires on the rear to replace the worn out Yokahama AVS AV1-60i's. My shop is recommending the Michelin XGT Pilot's at $130 each. I lean more towards smoothe ride than speed rating etc. Any comments or suggestions?
>
> Bob Thomason
> Charlotte, NC
> rdt7_at_dml_carolina.rr.com




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 01:09:58 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: timing chain trouble? what's this sound?

On my site, there's a technical paper in the Download section on the PRV6. In this document, it is stated that the PRV uses Nylatron 66 sliders on the timing chains. The reason I bring this up is that I got hold of a large
block of Nylatron66 (this is molibdenum disulphide impregnated nylon) for use in one of our robots - precisely for chain sliders. It's extremely abrasion resistant stuff - but easily machinable with the right tools. I have not
taken a PRV6 apart, but these sliders should be easy to re-make larger should you wish to increase the compression and tighten the chain. It's these sliders that I've always attributed the clicking in my engine to - but my
engine only has 3000 miles on it. It sounds exactly like the clicking the drive chain in the robot makes. (www.anthrax.org.uk if anyone's interested).

If anyone's interested, I can put you in touch with the company that supplied the block of Nylatron that I still have a large part of in the garage. It's common stuff and still in widespread use today, frequently as an
alternative to a ball-race.

Martin
#1458
DOC UK
www.delorean.co.uk




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 01:02:23 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Acid Resistance.

I know that blood and bologna are both items that will stain 
Stainless Steel because of their pH levels. But what about Citric 
Acid? Is there any cause for concern if it comes into contact with 
the body panels? That being diluted with water, or otherwise.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 01:12:45 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Open doors?

Well, you can't drive a "normal" car down a crowded high street on a sunny day with the
doors open...

Martin (unahamed show-off, together with Stephen Strelczak)
#1458

Joe Thome wrote:

> Les,
>
> You bring up good point on why leave a DeLorean's doors open for no apparent
> reason. 



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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 17:28:04 -0800 (PST)
From: E Grauff <datamonk_at_dml_svn.net>
Subject: Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.

Agreed . . . basically you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your
house . . .

On Wed, 27 Feb 2002, Hank Eskin wrote:

> > If you don't spend it on the car, you'll just spend it on
> > something else like housing, girls, food and other insignificant stuff.
> Never
> > pass up spending on the Delorean. It will be around when all others are
> gone.
> 
> Can I nominate this post as the "DML Post of the Month".   Nothing could be
> more true or to the point (and equally funny).  Perhaps we can get this
> printed up as a daily affirmation to affix to our visors as a reminder of
> our real priorities.  Thanks John.
> 
> -Hank  #1619




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 17:36:02 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: James...the magazine?

I know you're out there, how about an update on the magazine?  Tell us
now so that I don't have to ask Stephen at the chat.  I don't remember
exactly but it seems there was to have been another free magazine a
little bit ago and then the first official deloreans magazine due about
now, did I get it wrong?

Thanks, Les




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 21:38:35 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Front suspension - stuck on step two.... (got wheel off successfully)

In a message dated 3/1/02 3:01:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net writes:

<<You need to rent a tapered fork to remove the ball joint. >>
Nah...all you need to do is what my brother did..just use a hammer and tap 
the side of the steering knuckle and that will knock it off the 
steering knuckle. 

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 19:40:50 -0700
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: New Poll! What tires do you run?

I've started a new poll at the Yahoo Groups site:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

In the poll I'm asking what tire you currently run. It's a little hard to
do a poll like this with so many brands and models out there, so I faked
it.  <grin>  If you choose Other, please e-mail me at
mark(at)buffalochips.org (replace the (at) with _at_dml_ ) with the brand and
model you run. I'll post the results to the list at the end of the poll and
will keep all identities from e-mails private.

On a related note, The Tire Rack had a few of the rear size AVS
Intermediates in stock as of 2 weeks ago. I needed a pair and called them
and they had just received some. Who knows if they still have them. They're
showing the fronts as "special order" on their web site and I didn't ask
what that meant as far as availability.

Thanks for responding to the poll!

Mark Noeltner
VIN 6820



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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 21:47:16 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Radio bracket from DMC Houston...

Hey List,

    This weekend I plan to replace my original ASI radio from my car and I 
have spent this week preparing for that.  Tuesday I got my radio bracket from 
DMC Houston in, and then I sent it out to get powdercoated in a black wrinkle 
which came out great.  Contrary to what they say....this bracket DOES show 
around the a/c vents and also around the radio a little.  I hate the idea of 
having the bare SS showing through.  I think they should have them all 
powdercoated the way I did it.  The wrinkle effect in the coat does a good 
job of matching the original vinyl covering they did on the original 
brackets.  I also ran into a problem with the sleeve bracket the that radio 
came with and the cut out for the radio part on the new bracket.  Its too 
small.  Not to complain here...but when I spend $150 + on a part thats 
supposed to be a drop in replacement, I didn't expect having to spend $35.00 
to powdercoat it and now I need to file the sides of it down just to make the 
radio fit (also I might add that I am not the only one that found the opening 
too small so its NOT just mine that just happened to be too small, they all 
are like this).  And this is supposed to be easier how?  Whoever took the 
measurements for this thing must not of put into consideration that they need 
to fit a sleeve bracket around the radio when it gets installed.  Whats the 
big deal having the brackets powdercoated before you sell them?  At least 
offer a limited amount of them in a black wrinkle powdercoat, I bet that will 
be a big seller.

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914



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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 19:59:35 -0800
From: "Michael Quinto" <mquinto_at_dml_mediaone.net>
Subject: door opener actuators

Darryl,
Clearly you and I are not on the same page about the location of where we mount are devices. I was making a bad joke about the location.
At any time I never said anything bad about or discouraged anyone from buying your kits. I actually encouraged for anyone to ask you questions on your discovery.
But what I don't like is the misinformation you posted about the Solenoids being 5 to 6 pounds. I know you never said they would not work but you did hint that they were to heavy.
According to autolocs web page it say the Solenoids I have weigh 2 pounds. I have not had any problems with failing Solenoids. I understand you want to sell your product. I'm not trying to stop anyone from purchasing your product.
But, because I mention that there are other options and places to buy from you get bent out of shape.
Let these fine folks on this list decide what they want. Remember I'm not selling door openers, you are. And there are about 50 other sites out there that sell both actuators and solenoid shaved door handle kits for far less money. If they choose to go that direction, then they'll have to spend the time to figure out how to install the kit. 

And I never jerry rigged my doors. I was never happy with the VPA's Solenoids. I thought there products were inferior. But I NEVER had a problem with them. I paid $100.00 for the kit from Jeg's magazine. It came with a four channel, two remotes and two Solenoids. The reason why I changed them out was like Tim Taylor from Tooltime, I wanted more power.


This is my last word on this subject. I apologize to the list and moderators for this verbal intrusion.
If you would like to calm down then I'll talk to you off list, if not, then lets let it be. 

Regards,
Mike
 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Darryl Tinnerstet 
  To: mquinto_at_dml_mediaone.net 
  Cc: DMCNews 
  Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 3:58 PM
  Subject: RE: door opener actuators


  Sure, Mike, I'd be glad to tell everyone the correct way to install door openers - just send $199 plus $5 postage and I'll make it very clear.

  Seriously, I can't help but wonder why someone who has jerry-rigged maybe one set, then had to go back and re-do it because it didn't work right, would be taking me to task on this when I have successfully sold and installed dozens of kits over the last 10-12 years WITHOUT A SINGLE FAILURE OR COMPLAINT.  If you truly think your idea is better then go for it, but please don't tell me my method is inferior, or won't work.  As one satisfied customer pointed out it is simple, compact, and reliable.  You stated "Your door handles inner and outer are the easiest places to pull from.  Unfortunately you can't put your actuator or solenoid there."  Really?  Says who?  That happens to be exactly the correct place to pull from.  "I had tapped into the upper armature to open the doors with the my old 15's with the 50's I had to relocate to the bottom part of the armature."  What armature?  The only armature in the door is inside of the window motor.

  My actuators, which are fairly common, are rated at 12-15lbs of pull.  When I get my newly acquired #2323 car home I plan to test the required pull weight of the door opening linkage and put this issue to bed.  I have never said that heavy solenoids won't work because they will, but they are not necessary or reliable.  I'm always open to ideas for improvements in my products, but unless you have a proven, reliable, and inexpensive solution I think I will stick with one that is.

  Sorry if I'm a little testier than usual but I just got out of surgery yesterday and am still on some potent drugs.  I'll be back to my normal mellow state in a few days....

  Darryl Tinnerstet
  Specialty Automotive
  McCleary, WA
  www.delorean-parts.com
    


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 20:30:30 -0800 (PST)
From: James Cluster <jamesbond1882_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: http://www.DeLoreanFinance.com

--- Hank Eskin <heskin_at_dml_bellatlantic.net> wrote:
> > This site is new,
> > http://www.DeLoreanFinance.com
> 
> I don't know anything about it, but a simple domain
> name search reveals it
> is owned by:
> 
I am going to take a stab in the dark and say that
when it gets up and running, it will be a place for
poor saps like myself who don't yet have a DeLorean to
get financing in order to purchase one?

James
VIN # Not Yet

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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 05:10:22 -0000
From: "dmcburn75" <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New Frame

Has anyone one had the new stainless steel frame put in there car? Or
has anyone had the frame totally restored and built back up. I am
asking because I am wondering what the cost is to do this. Thanks!




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