From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 939
Date: Sunday, March 10, 2002 2:55 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Lights Master Switch
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

2. exhaust leaks?
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Re: Depthe of radio (Was: DMC Houston radio Bracket Question (and o...
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Door Ajar light stays on all the time...please help
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

5. Toby TABs (was Re: Drive Axles thunking?)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Re: What to monitor... (and how)
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

7. Gauges
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>

8. Re: a few more questions.. fuse box and locks
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

9. Re: auto trans leaks
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. Lights Staying on...
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

11. Re: auto trans leaks
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Replacing spark plug leads
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

13. Re: exhaust leaks?
From: shain_at_dml_elecmods.com

14. Re: exhaust leaks?
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: exhaust leaks?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: exhaust leaks?
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

17. Rear Wheel Bearings
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

18. Hot start
From: "paulus260572" <paulus29_at_dml_eurobell.co.uk>

19. Re: Replacing spark plug leads
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

20. Re: Replacing spark plug leads
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

21. Re: Hot start
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: Hot start
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Welcome Trevor!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>

24. RE: Re: Door Ajar light stays on all the time...please help
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

25. Maryland, Virginia, Washington DC, East Coast, DeLorean social was Bowie British Day
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 23:01:25 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Lights Master Switch

Hello everyone,

There have been several occasions for the issue of 
the Lights Master Switch (LMS) melting down to come up.
Today I was finally able to make some pictures of 
my old one, since I found it when cleaning up.

I uploaded them into the "Photo's"-section on the 
Yahoo!-groups site. You can find them in the LMS folder 
in the Techie Stuff folder.

As you can see in the pics, this one has allready melted.
To prevent this from happening again I wired my car 
to have a relay to take the load off of the LMS.
A write up on how I did this can be found on
<http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/lightrelays.html>

Maybe if I find the time, 
I'll put some pics of the modification too.

"Modified greetings",

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 15:08:07 -0500
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: exhaust leaks?

I am about as sure as I can be I have an exhaust leak in the area of the 
right manifold or crossover pipe. However, I have no idea where it is coming 
from, I can't find any black exhaust deposites or see or feel anywhere that 
air is excaping form the system. I even put my hands over the pipes a little 
to increase back pressure to see if the tick would get louder and I do not 
notice it change at all.?  With a mechanics stethescope I hear the ticking 
noise most prevelent on the crossover pipe next to the right manifold. Does 
the crossover pipe ever crack and leak. Also, I am probally going to have to 
pay someone to take the manifolds off and replace the gaskets etc, do any of 
you know about how much I'd get charged for such a job? Also, those studs 
and nuts have been on there for 20 years, I can't beleive they would come 
off with out breaking. Anyway, I'd just like it if anyone out there had some 
advice for me in this area.

Sincerely, Casey at chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 19:19:16 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Depthe of radio (Was: DMC Houston radio Bracket Question (and o...

In a message dated 3/8/02 5:36:18 PM Central Standard Time, jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl 
writes:


> Most modern radio's I've built into cars are SHORTER than the old
> ones, even when they sport an internal CD-player...
> 
> JAN van de Wouw
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   

You could be correct.  now that i think about it, maybe my ASI was longer 
than my alpine... i KNOW that my pioneer deck is deeper than the Delco deck i 
pulled from my Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme.

I don't really remember it right now but i remember that installation of the 
deck, with the exception of the wiring (my OEM wiring was color-coded 
incorrectly or something), was terribly simple.  the deck just dropped right 
into the precut OEM bracket and it doesn't move around or stick out more than 
i would expect it to.  i would say that if the deck sticks out too much, you 
just got a bad deck!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 15:46:12 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Re: Door Ajar light stays on all the time...please help

> Kevin,

I had the same problem, I did not look for the solution but I did do a fix.  My '82 has
the courtesy light delay relay, something is crossed up, the relay had been changed but
the rear courtesy light stayed on all the time, the remedy there was to remove the bulb.
Unplugging the relay that controlled it also solved the door ajar light problem...you
might try pulling that relay as a quick check.

Les  (So I mickey-mouse things, so what Bob, there's no Zilla fix for this problem)

>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 03:43:35 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Toby TABs (was Re: Drive Axles thunking?)

> BTW - I know that you picked up a set of TOBY-TAB's.  How did the
> installation go?  What was your impression of the quality of the
> parts?  Were the installation hints helpful?  Please advise.  Thanks.

Your timing in asking this question was excellent.  I just got through
installing a Toby TAB in a friend's car.  (We would have done both sides but
we were pressed for time as usual.)  We were about ready to put his car back
on the ground and then remembered that we should check the TABs.  This is
something that we had been meaning to check on this car for quite some time
but always ran out of time.  Well, it's a good thing we finally checked it!
The drivers side was loose & bent and had lost all its shims.  It is scary
to think of how long it could have been like this or when it would finally
snap.  It might have done it on his way home if we didn't fix it.  He never
noticed any symptoms either.  From now on whenever I work on a DeLorean,
this is one of the first things I'm going to check.  Period.

Situations like this is why I keep parts like that on hand.  I bought two
sets of Toby TABs even though I'm not ever planning on using them on my car
because that is getting the stainless frame that doesn't use TABs.

Anyway, the Toby TABs are a work of art.  You even have your name engraved
on the head.  And what's the deal with that little dollar sign symbol?  I
know they cost a lot to make but...? :-)

Want some constructive criticism?  The 12 point head is nice, but believe it
or not, I didn't have a 12 point non-metric socket to fit it.  I ended up
fitting a ratcheting box wrench in there (which is so far the best way I
found to reach TABs on auto tranny cars anyway).  Torquing was still a pain
(as it is with any TAB, not just yours) since I didn't want to do it from
the bolt head.  I figure that turning that end would give an inaccurate
reading.  So instead I used a crow-foot wrench on the end of my torque
wrench to get a reading off the nut.  I realize that this is 1 inch off, but
at 90 degrees I figure the difference is canceled.  I assume you have an
opinion on this?

I suggest selling each set of bolts with it's own set of instructions.  I
only got one set of instructions.  I would like to be able to leave a set
with each owner.  Also, I'm a believer in jam nuts.  I think you should sell
the bolts with extra nuts even if it raised the price by another buck or
two.  You're the materials expert in this situation and may know better, but
I'm used to seeing jam nuts supplied with the PJ Grady TABs.  I would have
rather you used metric sizes, and I'm sure your overseas customers would
agree even more.

Installation was very easy because this car has a manual tranny.  I liked
the suggestion of putting silicone grease on the bushing face and anti-seize
on the bolt shaft.  I did all that.  I had a really hard time getting the
bolt through the trailing arm until I realized that it was catching on the
shoulder at the base of the threads.  I kept looking everywhere but there.
I just didn't expect it to hang up there.  That is a big shoulder as bolts
go.  Maybe if you made the next batch using metric threads then this
wouldn't be a problem [sly grin].  I think it would be a good idea if you
sold new bushings with the bolts.  This would of course raise the price some
more, but it makes sense to do them together.  Luckily, I had a set of
bushings on hand.  (Another really nice thing to do at the same time is to
install PJ Grady's stainless trailing arm cover fastner kit -- very nice.)
That old bolt was so bent that it took the sleeve out with it.  We had to
cut the bolt to get the washers off.  Oh, that brings another point -- It
would be really great if you provided new harder washers with it too.  I had
a discussion about that with Rob Grady when I put TABs on my car last year.
He considered having harder washers made but said that it would cost too
much for the demand.

I'm posting this to the list because I suppose that other people would be
interested in what I think.  I think that Toby TABs are definitely the way
to go(unless you are spending $9K on a stainless steel frame :-)  Sure
Toby-TABs are expensive, but wow.  They are so much stronger than anything
else that could be used.  I don't think that any other kind of bolt could be
made to work as safely.  What is the life expectancy of an OEM TAB that is
kept properly torqued?  I don't think it would last very long.  I've seen
two bent TABs now that weren't loose -- just bent.  Why did they bend?

God bless you!  Major coolness,
Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 23:15:59 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: What to monitor... (and how)

I wrote:

>> I'm in the process of making a small display that goes where
>> the clock originally lives. This panel will be used to monitor
>> several ELECTRICAL functions of my DeLorean.
[snip]
>> I have at least one space to fill, but If you have more
>> suggestions they're welcome too off course. (My car's a manual,
>> so selected gear or active solenoids is not a possibility.

Then BOB wrote:

> Exactly how does your system monitor?
> It is a 4 digit display.
> can it measure current and/or voltages?

At the moment it's just a couple of LED's lighting when power
is supplied to certain wires, like those going to the separate
cooling fans and the ones coming from the Otterstat and
A/C compressor clutch (both before the diodes).

This is the easiest way and those were functions I wanted.
Measurements are not really a problem; a bit of circuitry is easily
made. I would prefer a simple LED on/off readout due to the position
of the lights; a bargraph is possible, but I want to stay away from
(alpha)numerical displays; that is one of the reasons for ditching
my clock!

I've allready gotten hold of some nice square (4 chip) LEDs trhat fit
nicely where I want them and I plan on making templates for symbols
to put on them so I get a lighting text or icon, just like the
"cooling fan fail" light on the A/C panel.

Hope this clarifies it a bit. Ideas are still welcome,
when I have it all finished I'll post some pics somewhere.
I want to have this finished before our next Dutch Club
meeting on April 21, so don't wait too long with all those
great ideas  ;-)

Thanks,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 14:36:50 -0800
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Gauges

Okay, Despite no useful responses, I have located a place that can make
gauges, if you have 15 orders, they will go ahead and manufacture them.
Price depends on what options you get but it looks to be around 200$,
which is not bad at all. If you are at all interested check out their web
site, www.speedhut.com. None of the sets have to identical, you can pick
between standard indiglo, or reverse, and you can also pick the colors of
both the numbers, and dial faces. (so you could theoretically have black
face gauges with green or even white numbers). If anyone is interested
Drop me a line, I will probably get them even if I have to pay for the
one time run, which would make my set cost nearly 1500$, but if there are
others interested I thought I would let you know. 

Talk to you later!

Trevor Johnson
comet4055_at_dml_juno.com

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 23:01:54 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: a few more questions.. fuse box and locks

You'll need the purchase new door locks (the ones that were used on 
the one key system Deloreans) and have a good locksmith key them to 
the ignition key. I have to have this done since my drivers door lock 
is shot (it's a two key system) and I need to replace it since they 
were not serviciable. Also to note, the two key system door locks 
used a different blank then the one key system, that's why you have 
to replace them and not simply "re-key" them.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "James LaLonde" <krfds_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> i see that the fuse boxs are hard to come by. does anyone know if 
they were
> used on another car... or a part number for someother car that is a 
suitable
> replacement?
> 
> secondly, what does it take to unify the ignition and door locks... 
a
> locksmith...
> new locks and ignition...
> do i need to buy new locks and then have a smith set them??
> 
> thanks again!!
> james lalonde 001697
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free _at_dml_yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 23:43:05 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: auto trans leaks

Rob, There is no such thing as a mechanic in a can. If they are leaking, then 
go to the trouble to take the trans out and replace them. You will be better 
in the long run. The chemicals will swell the seals, and swell and swell. 
It's just putting off the inevitable. If you have been around Deloreans long 
enough to know what gas does to the FP boot , the rubber seals will 
deterioate into the transmission fluid and start turning it a color . 
John Hervey
 www.specialtauto.com/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2029 22:35:12 -0500
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: Lights Staying on...

    On the topic thread of lights staying on ..
 
as to which i am baffled as well .. my problem is SLIGHTLY different
 
My interior overhead lights ... (reading lights if you will) when set to
the toggle to come on when the doors are open
 
sometimes will STAY ON after the door is closed
 
i have investigated the wiring ... and switch on the drivers door sill
 
to no avail
 
sometimes it goes off ... sometimes it stays on!?!
 
strange ..
 
suggestions ... where is our electrical guru?
 
Kenneth
05541
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 04:46:36 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: auto trans leaks

Some of the more common areas to check are
1) check fluid level as per Manual as an overfilled trans will leak 
see G:04:02 (overfilled trans VERY common)
2) gearshift cable leaks. Get repair kit from PJ Grady (common)
3) "O" ring seal at vacuum modulater
4) oil cooler fittings at trans
5) seals on shift computer
6) Pan gasket
7) It is possible there is a porosity (a pinhole) in the casting but 
unlikely.
The easiest way to find leaks is to have the trans cleaned or clean it 
yourself with Gunk and a hose. Watch it for when it first starts to 
leak and look ahead and above to make sure it isn't comming from 
there. Leaks tend to travel from front to back and from top to bottom. 
It may take removal and disassembly to reseal the whole thing to stop 
every leak. When you pull the pan the debris should be minimal with 
very little shiny metal and the fluid should not smell burnt. If it 
isn't the grit will wipe out all of the seals. In this case the trans 
will soon be in need of a rebuild as the longer you operate it the 
more internal damage you will cause. Sometimes a leaking trans is a 
warning that the fluid is burnt and has damanged the seals causing 
them to start leaking. At that point replacing just the leaking seals 
is like sticking a band-aid on a broken arm! Don't forget that the 
final drive must be checked separately. See G:05:01
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., hrlyrngr1_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I'm sure this topic has come up before, but I'm having trouble 
finding what I 
> need. I have an automatic trans in an Aug '81, which appears to be 
leaking 
> fluid from both the front & the rear. I have a new pan gasket which 
I havent 
> installed yet, because the leaks seems to be coming from above the 
pan. Any 
> help would be much appreciated.             
>                                            Rob      
>                                                  03309
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 23:26:11 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Replacing spark plug leads

Hello all,

Since the leads to my spark plugs are allmost certainly about
20 years of age they are arcing through the insulation in wet
wheather, so I decided to replace them, along with the
distributor cap and rotor.
I allready have all the right parts from DMC Houston
and was going to replace them today...

I ended up cursing and doing other work since I couldn't figure
out how to reach teh distributor. Searching the work shop manual
I found a sentence saying
>"The mixture regulator must be removed to reach the distributor"
Then I searched for instrctions on how to do so, but found nothing
even resembling those instructions. I did however learn more about
how the injection works, so it wasn't all lost time.

Can anyone tell me if I really need to remove the mixture control
unit to replace the wires cap and rotor? If I do so, will I need
any extra parts like gaskets or such to reassemble everything
afterwards? Or should I just let my shop take care of this?
I don't mind working on these parts myself, but I only have access
to workspace on weekends, so everything I start on has to be fixed
and cleaned up by monday morning 08h00...

If I don't get any responses I'm goin to bring it to the shop anyway.
Thanks in advance,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 23:39:37 -0500 (EST)
From: shain_at_dml_elecmods.com
Subject: Re: exhaust leaks?

Hi Casey,

I recently had to replace the manifold gaskets on my car.  I was lucky enough to have a traveling welder come to my house to weld my small hole on my pipe, and let me use his torch to remove the manifold nuts.  I had to replace 2 studs (7mm i believe,  hard to come by localy).  I glass beaded my manifolds, used some good high temp paint and all new gaskets all round.  My studs seemed to be in good condition, i wasn't in the mood to try and take them out if i didn't have to.  So i ran a chaser over them, and used some new nuts on it.  From what i have been told doing all of this makes the car sound better,  i never heard mine run before this so i don't really know about that.  All I can say is that people are going to charge a good (large) amount and it's going to be well worth it.  It was the biggest pain in the ass (sorry guys,  it really was).  The location alone and doing it in my garage didn't help.  From what i heard a while back PJ Grady charges $800 (just what i heard, !
 should call for an estimate).  The $800 seems well worth it as well.  You don't want to mess around with breaking bolts in alumnium heads.

- Shain
#10140

----- In Response To -----

I am about as sure as I can be I have an exhaust leak in the area of the 
right manifold or crossover pipe. However, I have no idea where it is coming 
from, I can't find any black exhaust deposites or see or feel anywhere that 
air is excaping form the system. I even put my hands over the pipes a little 
to increase back pressure to see if the tick would get louder and I do not 
notice it change at all.?  With a mechanics stethescope I hear the ticking 
noise most prevelent on the crossover pipe next to the right manifold. Does 
the crossover pipe ever crack and leak. Also, I am probally going to have to 
pay someone to take the manifolds off and replace the gaskets etc, do any of 
you know about how much I'd get charged for such a job? Also, those studs 
and nuts have been on there for 20 years, I can't beleive they would come 
off with out breaking. Anyway, I'd just like it if anyone out there had some 
advice for me in this area.

Sincerely, Casey at chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 





-----------------------------------
WSMMail Brought to you by Adgrafix!
http://www.adgrafix.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 00:15:08 EST
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: exhaust leaks?

       If you feel you have to know where the leak is before you regasket 
your entire exhaust system (which is what you're going to do in the end 
anyway) try this. Ford and Chrysler dealers (maybe others) have a "smoke 
machine" for tracing evap system leaks, exhaust leaks, etc..  Have someone 
smoke test the exhaust system and report the results.
       Don vin 6860



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 04:56:45 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: exhaust leaks?

The best and safest way I have found over the years when working on 
exhaust systems is to always remove the parts with an acetalyne torch. 
 Heat the nut or bolt up to light cherry red, let cool back to gray 
and they screw right out. The only times I have broken bolts is when I 
try to use sprays or do it cold. The biggest problems with heat is to 
avoid damaging surrounding parts, safety and the occasional time the 
stud comes out with the threads (usually in aluminum) but it probably 
would have broken off anyway and it's easy to retap with an insert. A 
torch is not for use by the faint-of-heart so if you aren't 
experienced with it save it for the professionals. The money spent 
here will save a lot of broken parts. Maybe you can make them a deal 
just to take it apart and let you reassemble. On jobs like this most 
shops won't flat-rate. There is no way of knowing what is involved so 
they will want to do it based on time and standard labor rates. A 
really good guy can probably get it apart in around 2 hours.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I am about as sure as I can be I have an exhaust leak in the area of 
the 
> right manifold or crossover pipe. However, I have no idea where it 
is coming 
> from, I can't find any black exhaust deposites or see or feel 
anywhere that 
> air is excaping form the system. I even put my hands over the pipes 
a little 
> to increase back pressure to see if the tick would get louder and I 
do not 
> notice it change at all.?  With a mechanics stethescope I hear the 
ticking 
> noise most prevelent on the crossover pipe next to the right 
manifold. Does 
> the crossover pipe ever crack and leak. Also, I am probally going to 
have to 
> pay someone to take the manifolds off and replace the gaskets etc, 
do any of 
> you know about how much I'd get charged for such a job? Also, those 
studs 
> and nuts have been on there for 20 years, I can't beleive they would 
come 
> off with out breaking. Anyway, I'd just like it if anyone out there 
had some 
> advice for me in this area.
> 
> Sincerely, Casey at chaparral2a002_at_dml_h...
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: 
http://mobile.msn.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 02:55:52 EST
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: exhaust leaks?

Casey:

Yes, you can get a leak at the "Y" pipe.  I had that problem some three years 
ago.  The place of probability would be at the accordion section.  You will 
notice some carbon deposit or discoloration at the crack.  The crack can be 
very small, but large enough to make the annoying leaking noise.  To get a 
better inspection, have your DeLorean on a lift and you can get a very good 
closer look or even use your ears to hear where it is coming from.  You can 
use a small mechanic's mirror to see around areas that is not accessible.  
BTW, when inspecting be careful not to get burn ... the "Y" pipe can get very 
hot!

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 22:58:45 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Rear Wheel Bearings

I need to replace the rear wheel bearings and I wanted to know if the 
cross reference for the Federal Mogul P/N 513106 or the Fiat P/N 
513116 is a correct fit? Has anyone else replaced theirs (besides 
using the ones from the D vendors) and what brand/Part Number? I have 
a good friend of mine that works at an auto parts store where I can 
get them at deep discounted prices that's why I asked.

Steve





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 14:25:46 -0000
From: "paulus260572" <paulus29_at_dml_eurobell.co.uk>
Subject: Hot start

Hello All,

With the hot start problem I keep having I have almost given up on 
the problem.
As I have tried everything bar change the fuel pump incase the valve 
has gone this is what I did for now.

I have a switch now on the console with a light on it and when the 
car won't start from hot I can press the switch it activates the cold 
start valve and then I switch it off quick so I keep the engine 
running,works fine once you time it right.

It's just a way round it by not going to the engine and swaping the 
plugs around.


Paul Heymeson.Vin 741.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 11:07:27 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing spark plug leads

IF YOU LOOSEN UP THE PART AROUND THE DISTRIBUTOR, WIRING, MISTURE
CONTROL, ETC. IT GIVES JUST ENOUGH ROOM TO REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP
AND ROTOR.

IT IS NOT EASY AND YOU NEED TO CONTORT YOUR HANDS AND WRIST.

IT REALLY HELPS TO GET WIRES THAT ARE CORRECT WITH 90 CAP INTO THE
DISTRIBUTOR.







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 17:47:06 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing spark plug leads

I have found that replacing the cap and rotor is indeed easiest by 
moving the mixture control unit -- however it does not need to be 
removed entirely.

To get the mixture control unit out of the way to gain better access 
to the cap and rotor (and the plug leads attached to the cap), do as 
follows:

- Remove the Y pipe connecting the mixture control unit to the intake 
manifold (one screw (or was it two) in the center attaching to the 
throttle end of the mixture unit and two screws at either end 
attaching to the intake manifold). This should take about 3 minutes.

- Remove the two allen headed screws attaching the mixture control 
unit bracket to the top of the intake manifold. There's one on each 
side. This should take about 1.5 minutes.

- Unhook the throttle linkage conecting to the throttle at the end of 
the mixture unit. You unclip the little retaining clip on the socket 
end of the ball/socket connection and then pop the linkage off the 
throttle butterfly valve ball. This should take about 1 minute.

The mixture control unit is now loose and you can shift it around a 
little and shift it forward slightly using what little slack there is 
in the fuel distributor lines. With the ability to shift the mixture 
control unit around a little you gain better access to the 
distributor cap and sparkplug leads.

You do need new gaskets for the mating between the Y pipe and the 
intake manifold. These thin paper gaskets seem to tear easily when 
removing the Y pipe. The center portion of the Y pipe uses O rings 
that are substantially better than the paper gaskets, but it is 
generally good practice to replace these as well when servicing this 
area.

    Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Since the leads to my spark plugs are allmost certainly about
> 20 years of age they are arcing through the insulation in wet
> wheather, so I decided to replace them, along with the
> distributor cap and rotor.

<snip>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 12:44:58 EST
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot start

A used stainless steel DeLorean............................... $15,000

A set of drive up ramps to work under the car......... $ 80

A new fuel accumulator.............................................$ Priceless

Have you tried changing the fuel accumulator?

Good luck
Daniel D.
15779 & 3356




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 17:48:37 -0000
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hot start

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "paulus260572" <paulus29_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> You probably don't want to hear this but I tried everything to 
eliminate the problem and it turned out to be the fuel distributor.  
It was expense to replace, and then it only came after replacing 
everything else first! All in all, over $3,000 at the local "experts" 
Delorean shop.

Scot
6452




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:38:15 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net>
Subject: Welcome Trevor!

I gave Trevor Johnson of the DOA a hard time off list, I'd certainly
like to welcome his participation in the DML.

This is what it's all about Trevor, helping each other, sharing
information, trying to be good neighbors.

Les






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 13:25:00 -0500
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Re: Door Ajar light stays on all the time...please help


Kevin & List,

The door light switches are 20+ years old. The switches need to be adjusted, or replaced with parts from a DeLorean supplier.
The switch that controls the door lights and ajar light in the binnacle needs a small set screw installed underneath the rubber cap.
Remove the rubber cap, install the aformentioned screw, re-install the cap, finally operate the door while preforming a final adjustment with a small phillips screwdriver.

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack






Les Huckins <jhuckins_at_dml_cybersurfers.net> wrote:

>> Kevin,
>
>I had the same problem, I did not look for the solution but I did do a fix.  My '82 has
>the courtesy light delay relay, something is crossed up, the relay had been changed but
>the rear courtesy light stayed on all the time, the remedy there was to remove the bulb.
>Unplugging the relay that controlled it also solved the door ajar light problem...you
>might try pulling that relay as a quick check.
>
>Les  (So I mickey-mouse things, so what Bob, there's no Zilla fix for this problem)
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 13:30:40 -0500
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Maryland, Virginia, Washington DC, East Coast, DeLorean social was Bowie British Day


This messgae was sent to me, as I am forwarding the British Car Day info to the DML and Delorean World. The former lake in Bowie is nolonger. The event organizers have moved the location to Gaitherburg Maryland.

Please email me with any question.

Best Wishes,
Michael 
 Subject:   BCD 2002 
Date:   Sat, 09 Mar 2002 20:58:39 -0500 
From:   tokarj_at_dml_erols.com 

Mike Pack,

I would like to update you on our plans for The Original British Car Day
2002:  Below is our recent press release FYI:  

The Chesapeake Chapter of the New England MGT Register announces that The
Original British Car Day, normally held in Bowie, Maryland, will move to a
new location: Smokey Glen Farm in Gaithersburg, Maryland, and a new date:
June 16, 2002. This event will be open to up to 1000 cars and held in an
attractive country setting. Quality barbeque food and drinks will be
available for sale at reasonable prices, and family activities will also be
provided.  For more information please contact BCD Chairman, John Tokar by
telephone at 301-831-5300, or by e-mail at tokarj_at_dml_erols.com.

Smokey Glen Farm is located at 16407 Riffleford Road in Gaithersburg, MD
20878.  It can be accessed easily from I270 from the South, via Route 28 or
Route 124, or from the North, via route 118.  They have a website:
www.smokeyglenfarm.com if you would like more information.

More details and other info about British Car Day will also appear on our
club's website:

http://hometown.aol.com/britishcarday/

Registration flyers are currently being prepared and should be available
for distribution by early May. We are expecting a large turnout of cars
this year and would greatly appreciate any help your members could provide
with parking cars for your club. 

Thanks for your support of British Car Day.  See you at the show!

Regards,

John




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/