From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 946
Date: Thursday, March 14, 2002 11:02 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Lotus Chassis
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

2. Thanks
From: "rorx2000" <rorx2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. New Delorean Products
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

4. Re: Water pump woes
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

5. Re: Over heat protector questions.
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

6. Re: Over heat protector questions.
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe_at_dml_delorean.com>

8. Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. CORROSION - FUEL PUMP
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>

10. X-Over Parts. (was Re: Over heat protector questions.)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

11. Re: Porsche engines in a DeLorean...and back seats
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

12. RE: [doc] Speedograph Richfield was Smiths Industries
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

13. Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

14. Re: Chicago St. Pat's Day Parade March 16
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

15. RE: Lotus Chassis
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

16. Re: CORROSION - FUEL PUMP
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: RE: [doc] Speedograph Richfield was Smiths Industries
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

19. Seattle St. Pat's Parade
From: greglinstad <greglinstad_at_dml_resrchintl.com>

20. Technical Musings: DIY Fan Module (long)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. Re: [doc] Lotus Chassis
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

22. Cruise Control
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

23. ELECTRICAL BLUES/FUEL PUMP SHIELD - PICS
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:38:07 EST
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Lotus Chassis



The DMC-12 and the Lotus Elan/Esprit shared many similarities. The Lotus guys 
say the DMC-12 chassis is the Lotus Esprit S 3 chassis. Colin Chapman said 
the Elan chassis is the classis Lotus design and incorporated into the DMC.

There is a 1965 Lotus Elan on Ebay...the cars were offered at one time in 
several boxes, as the new owner assembled the car in his garage or workshop.
The interesting aspect of this chassis is its' red coating. Anyone know about 
this?

http://listings.ebaymotors.com/aw/listings/list/category6307/index.html

Best Wishes,

Michael Pack



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 05:39:24 -0000
From: "rorx2000" <rorx2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thanks

Well, everyone Vin#3010 is running like a clock! thanks to John 
hervey up in dallas. I had some problems with broken bolts, rotted 
coolent pipe and crank but no run. He is great at what he does!!! I 
would also like to thank ERIC JOHNSON sold me the car, James espey 
who helped me decide to live the Dream!, Warren who sent parts out 
quickly and DMC JOE who brought the DIY'er out of me. And last but 
not least to all the DML members who help any and everyone. 

Rory
Vin #3010
"living the dream and loving it"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 01:43:02 -0500
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: New Delorean Products


O.K. Some of you may have already visited the Delorean section of our new site at:  thelastplaceyoulooked.com and viewed some of the new "D" stuff. Well, Steve Peck sure did and he convinced us to drop the prices on some of the new products. Since he (and we) are members of the DML, we decided to offer our latest and greatest to the DML membership first before the ads go out to the rest of the Delorean world and the prices go back to normal. Check it out if you get the chance.
Thanks,
Rustproof vin# 1559


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:10:02 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Water pump woes

What if you go to www.autobarn.com and order it, that's what I did. 
Granted I am in the US but I'm sure they can/will ship to your 
location. I got my pump for $75 (with an online coupon at the time) 
and I believe they are around $85 normally. The pump is brand new, 
not rebuilt and carries a lifetime warranty (free replacement). The 
waterpump I bought is the bolt on pulley style.

Just a thought.

Steve


>SNIP<> Airtex is an american manufacturer of european parts - we 
can't get that brand over here.
> Ironic really.
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> 
> dmcman82 wrote:
> 
> > As I stated in a previous post, I used an Airtex water pump (new)
> > and the end casing from my old orignal waterpump fit it 
perfectly.
> > Had no problems. The version water pump was the bolt on pulley
> > style. I don't know why your's would not fit the new one.
> >
> > Steve




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 04:56:02 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Over heat protector questions.

Adam - Brass fittings are what are normally available, and brass is 
what I have in my car.  Just remember to use thread sealant when 
installing the fitting into the thermostat housing.  There is no 
challenge between the aluminum engine parts and the brass, especially 
if you use any brand of good antifreeze.  If you are actually looking 
at copper fittings, I think that they would be very soft, and easily 
damaged during installation.  I can't recall ever seeing copper 
threaded fittings, to be honest with you.  We have very inexpensive 
kits prepared with all the parts, if you choose to go with a package 
rather than piecing it together yourself.  Contact me, or Darryl 
Tinnerstet at www.delorean-parts.com .  I know that most of the 
vendors also have similar kits.  It is an excellent system for 
eliminating air pockets in the engine.  I have installed this concept 
in my other (non-DeLorean) cars as well.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> I am trying to make my own overheat protector and I was just 
wondering if copper is okay to use? All I can find are copper 
fittings, so will the copper react with the aluminum or the 
antifreeze in a harmful way? What type of fittings are sold with the 
overheat protector kits?
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 02:14:58 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Over heat protector questions.

> What type of fittings are sold with the overheat protector kits?

The fitting that came with the over heat protector that I bought from DMC
Joe had a standard 1/4" American water pipe thread on it.  I was at first
peeved that it wasn't a metric thread that matched the thermostat housing.
But then I looked it over and saw that the threads were pretty close to
being correct anyway.  You are only going to screw it in there one time and
forget about it, so it being the wrong thread isn't really a problem.  Just
go to the hardware store and buy a standard brass 1/4" water pipe thread to
hose barb fitting.

I have also heard of people drilling out the bleed screw and using it, but
there isn't much nipple/barb to reliably hook a hose to.

What would really be cool is if someone started making stainless header
bottles with an extra hose barb just for the bleeder line.  Then we wouldn't
need that extra T-fitting.

Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:05:00 -0000
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> First, I am no quitter.  When faced with the prospect of say paying 
> $200 for a bloody interior mirror, I'll go to great lengths...
> 
> I visited a rather complete junkyard, loaded with 80's cars from 
all 
> makes.  There are simply NO mirrors like the DMC's.  --
[snip]
> Seriously, ideas anyone?
> 
> -Steve #3302

Wouldn't it be easier just to pull of the hole mirror.
A while ago, my interior mirror fell off (don't ask me why ...) and 
it was broken. So, instead of looking for a new Delorean-mirror, I 
just went to a junkyard and I pulled of a mirror that looked a bit 
like the one in my Delorean. I think it was a Ford Escort (European 
version). Nobody seems to know the difference.

By the way, next week I'm going to replace my coolant bottle with one 
out of a old BMW 3-series (E30). It looks the same, works perfect and 
nobody will see the difference.
Another example : my gas struts in the trunk are really gas struts 
from an old citroŽn. They work perfectly and nobody knows ...

Of course I will keep all the original pieces, but I now keep 'em in 
boxes, since they're broken ...
To repair a Delorean, you don't always have to use original pieces. 
If you look around, you can find a hole lot ...

Regards from Belgium

Andy




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:46:17 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?

Steve, there are literally hundreds of exact replacement rear view 
mirrors in every scrapyard over here. Ford used that mirror in every 
medium-to-large saloon since the early 80s - Sierra's, Granada's, 
Scorpio's. Most yards charge a minimum fee of £5 when you go on the 
scrounge. That's what I paid for my mirror.

If you can wait till Memphis, I'll go find as many as I can. Before 
then, if you like, I'll try and find the time to go to one at lunchtime 
one day (have to find one first!).

BTW My car shipped out of Charleston on its way over here :-)

Martin
#1458

stevepeck1 wrote:

>
>Martin, our resident Brit says that there are plenty in England, but 
>sadly I am in Charleston, SC...  Send me a dozen, buddy and I'll make 
>us some real loot selling them for Half what others sell them for...
>
>Seriously, ideas anyone?
>
>-Steve #3302
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:53:12 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>
Subject: CORROSION - FUEL PUMP

 From time-to-time I notice comments arising on the DML in reference to 
fuel pump corrosion.  Some time ago, I had the same problem.  In fact, the 
pump was so corroded that fuel was squirting out through a hole in the top 
of the pump.  On investigating, I found the rubber boot full of a mixture 
of both fuel and water; the water having gained access because the boot 
cover had come loose and a portion of the pump was exposed.  Considering 
the seclusion of the fuel pump, I could not understand how the water got 
there in the first place.

Upon investigation, I discovered that water from the windshield wiper 
trough exits via a one inch diameter pipe which is located high on the rear 
wall of the trunk practically in line with the fuel pump.  If enough water 
enters the wiper trough, such as when washing the vehicle, it will stream 
directly on top of the fuel pump.  This I know, because I have tried it!!.

To protect the fuel pump from water, I have made a deflection shield out of 
Herculite fabric.  Herculite is a fibreglass reinforced fabric which is 
extremely durable, completely waterproof and long-lasting.  The shield, 
which is held in place by the wheel-well panel, is large enough to 
completely deflect water completely away from the pump.

This modification is a very simple and worthwhile process.  Attached are 
pictures of the fuel pump area, drain hole and shield.

In my opinion, protection of the fuel pump and probe from water is far from 
satisfactory and a definite flaw in the manufacture of the DeLorean.

Lance Haslewood
Australia   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:56:13 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: X-Over Parts. (was Re: Over heat protector questions.)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> I am trying to make my own overheat protector and I was just 
wondering if 
> copper is okay to use?
<SNIP>

As far as the copper is concerned, I honestly can't answer your 
question there. But I do have one question in return: Why bother?

The overheat protector works perfectly fine, so I've no idea as to 
how you could possibly improve it if that were the goal. Other 
than that, as I've heard, finding the perfect barbed fitting to 
replace the bleeder screw is not the simplest of tasks. If you 
order the kit, it will have everything together in one shot, and 
installs fairly quickly. No chasing down parts, no driving all over 
town, no dealing with "less than informed" people & retail stores, 
or anything like that.

Not just the overheat protector, but other x-over parts and the like, 
I see alot of people posting about needing to find matches _at_dml_ 
local auto stores and the like. I'm not going to be a hypocrite and 
say that I would never buy parts from a chain auto store for my 
car, because I have. But when it comes to things that you can 
replace/repair _at_dml_ your leisure, why even bother with local 
places? If you need parts for your DeLorean that are guarnteed 
to work with/fit on your car like brake pads, water pumps, or even 
an overheat protector, just call up your favorite DeLorean vendor! 
What extra price you may pay is well worth the piece of mind! 
You'll know for sure that the parts will work because they were 
designed for your car. If nothing else, it's worth it to speak with 
someone on the phone who knows DeLoreans. Unlike the 
yokels you run into _at_dml_ the chain places who barely know even 
common cars!

If the shipping delay is what gets you down, try planning repairs 
in advance, not on a whim. Need to do an oil change for 
instance? Set the time to do it for next week, and order the parts 
online right now. By the time you're ready, the parts will be 
waiting for you already! Patience is a virtue! Get into this habit, 
and things will really seem different!

If a warranty for instance is the concern such as with an 
alternator, or calipers, then there is really only one question 
there: If warranties are a high priority for you, then don't even 
consider buying a car over 5 years old, let alone a classic.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:53:42 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Porsche engines in a DeLorean...and back seats

Michael,

Make sure to be in Memphis this June, you may see one of these.
Be careful what you wait for.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Senatorpack_at_dml_c... wrote:
> 
> Well said Matt. I'm still waiting for someone to install a rear 
seat, .....
> 

> snip <

> 
> Best Wishes,
> Michael




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:38:11 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: RE: [doc] Speedograph Richfield was Smiths Industries

Michael, List,

I have had another telephone conversation with "Speedograph's"  Dave Musson.
They are only in Nottingham, about 20 miles from my house in Derby (UK)  He
is fully knowledgable about the DeLorean having worked on the original
project.

They are starting to re-make angle drives!  I will take delivery of a "test
one" soon. Price will soon be decided.

He mentioned something which I had not thought about, The reason they use
rather flimsy plastic gears in the angle drives is so they can act as a kind
of "fuse" in-case of cable / lambarda or speedo problems. He says using much
stronger metal gears could cause other problems.

Regards the 85 / 140 MPH Speedo's Dave is prepared to re-make the
"Euro-spec" 140 mph Speedo's on an "Exchange basis" , but he could do with a
few old 85 MPH units to start with....any volunteers? Contact me.  I can
lend him  one of  my original 140 MPH one's.

Any one wishing to view a proper original 140 MPH speedo can see mine on our
website www.delorean.co.uk .

They bought all the stuff from CP trim when it went bust!  All gone now!!

Chris Parnham   DOC UK


-----Original Message-----
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com [mailto:Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com]
Sent: 14 March 2002 02:32
To: doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [doc] Speedograph Richfield was Smiths Industries


Anyone know if they can supply DeLorean instruments and angle drives?

www.speedographrichfield.com

Best Wishes,
Michael



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:40:05 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?

Steve,

If you carefully heat up the area where the mounting ball attaches to
the mirror with a bulb from a trouble-light, or if you have a heatgun
and are very careful, you can soften the plastic just enough to get
the mounting ball to pop in the mirror socket.  When it cools, it's
just like new.  If it needs a little extra help, try a little WD40 on
the mounting ball.  It will evaporate slowly after the install and the
socket will dry out so that the mirror will not droop over time under
it's own weight (or jump out of position when you hit bumps).

This is by no means a guaranteed fix, but it has worked for me on
several Delorean rear view mirror swaps and replacements.  The key is
to warm the plastic without melting it and to not force the issue.
Better to warm it and try it several times rather than breaking it.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> First, I am no quitter.  When faced with the prospect of say paying 
> $200 for a bloody interior mirror, I'll go to great lengths...but I 
> learned that if you press too hard on the back of the mirror to get 
> the DMC's mounting ball into it, you end up with 7 (14) years bad 
> luck.  

>snip< 

> Seriously, ideas anyone?
> 
> -Steve #3302




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:21:37 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Chicago St. Pat's Day Parade March 16

March 16th - ST. PATRICK'S DAY PARADE 

The Delorean Midwest Connection club will be attending the Chicago
St. Pat's Day Parade this Saturday, March 16, in downtown Chicago, IL.
The Parade begins at 12 noon, but participants are required to be in 
their staging area by 9:30 AM, however you may want to get there a 
little earlier since the President of the United States announced this
morning that he will be attending the parade as well.

Rumor has it that George W. Bush is attending the parade to see the
infamous Texas Monster Delorean, D REX in person.  Yes, that's right,
D REX will be attending it's first parade.  If you have not seen it in
person yet, this is a great time to come see it.  We will be in the
staging area for several hours before we get moving in the parade, so
there will be more than enough time for people to check it out.

Call Guy Avelon after 6PM at 847-487-0203 for instructions to where we 
will meet on Saturday.  Guy will not be able to attend, so if you want
to meet up in the western suburbs and caravan down with D REX, give me
a call (leave a message) and I will get back to you, 708-447-1550.

So far we are expecting at least 4 - 5 cars, including club members
Bryan, Tamir, Eric and Marni, my brother and myself.  Our staging area
number is 118, which is just a ballpark reference number, since we are
actually in front of 117 and behind 120.  119 is a marching unit.

If you cannot make it out, be sure to watch (or tape) the parade on
WGN CH9 Chicago for 2 hours (which is a nation wide, cable broadcast)
or on WLS CH7 Chicago, with 1 1/2 hour coverage.  We hope to be past
the reviewing stand this year before the TV coverage is over.

Weather forecast is for mostly sunny skys, with mid 40's expected.
Sounds like a great day for the parade.

See you there.
Rich W.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:07:10 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Lotus Chassis

The DeLorean doesn't have much in common with the Elan at all
other than the basic layout of a backbone chassis.  The Elan
is front-engined, rear drive with all of the parts in the
"usual" places.  The Elan was available as a kit, primarily
to avoid the taxes levied on completely assembled new cars.

The Esprit S3/Turbo chassis is very different from the DeLorean
as well.  They share a backbone configuration, but the details
are completely different.  The front of the Esprit frame is
"T" shaped, with no front crumple structure like the DeLorean.
Suspension pickups are on the outer ends of the crossbar of
the "T".

The fuel tanks (there are 2) in the Esprit are on either
side of the forward engine compartment just behind the
seats.  The engine cradle in the Esprit is a tube frame,
again vastly different than the DeLorean.

The passenger compartment of the Esprit is farther forward
than the DeLorean, requiring an offset to the pedals to the
center of the car because the front wheel arch protrudes into
the footwell.  There is no package shelf behind the seats, either.

The red coating on the Elan frame in the picture is probably
red paint.  Factory frames were usually mild steel painted
black.  Esprit frames from about 1980 on were galvanized
and warranted for 5 years against rust.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com [mailto:Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 7:38 PM
To: doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Cc: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Lotus Chassis




The DMC-12 and the Lotus Elan/Esprit shared many similarities. The Lotus
guys
say the DMC-12 chassis is the Lotus Esprit S 3 chassis. Colin Chapman said
the Elan chassis is the classis Lotus design and incorporated into the DMC.

There is a 1965 Lotus Elan on Ebay...the cars were offered at one time in
several boxes, as the new owner assembled the car in his garage or workshop.
The interesting aspect of this chassis is its' red coating. Anyone know
about
this?

http://listings.ebaymotors.com/aw/listings/list/category6307/index.html

Best Wishes,

Michael Pack



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:52:35 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: CORROSION - FUEL PUMP

Lance,

My DeLorean came from its previous owner with a CD jewel case wedged between
the windshield drain and the fuel pump boot since the original boot cover
had shrunk to almost nothing.  At the time I had not owned the car for very
long when someone at a DeLorean car show spotted the jewel case.  It was
quite a laugh for everyone.

The main problem with having a deflection shield is that it can clog the
drain hole should leaves find their way in there.  IMHO, I think that a
properly installed fuel pump boot cover alone is enough to keep water out.

Walt    Tampa, FL




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:43:23 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Mirrors - - Where the H#_at_dml_?

For my 2 cents worth If I were to replace the interior rear view 
mirror I would look for a mirror from a car with a compass and outside 
temperature and auto diming. There are many luxury model cars in scrap 
yards that could be good donors for one. Try to get it with as much 
internal to the mirror as possible as on some the compasss is external 
and requires a lot of wiring. They are also available aftermarket in 
many auto magazines for about $200. This would make a nice upgrade for 
the Delorean making it feel more "modern".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Steve, there are literally hundreds of exact replacement rear view 
> mirrors in every scrapyard over here. Ford used that mirror in every 
> medium-to-large saloon since the early 80s - Sierra's, Granada's, 
> Scorpio's. Most yards charge a minimum fee of £5 when you go on the 
> scrounge. That's what I paid for my mirror.
> 
> If you can wait till Memphis, I'll go find as many as I can. Before 
> then, if you like, I'll try and find the time to go to one at 
lunchtime 
> one day (have to find one first!).
> 
> BTW My car shipped out of Charleston on its way over here :-)
> 
> Martin
> #1458
> 
> stevepeck1 wrote:
> 
> >
> >Martin, our resident Brit says that there are plenty in England, 
but 
> >sadly I am in Charleston, SC...  Send me a dozen, buddy and I'll 
make 
> >us some real loot selling them for Half what others sell them 
for...
> >
> >Seriously, ideas anyone?
> >
> >-Steve #3302
> >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:16:47 EST
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: [doc] Speedograph Richfield was Smiths Industries

In a message dated 3/14/02 7:53:08 AM Central Standard Time, 
chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net writes:


> He mentioned something which I had not thought about, The reason they use
> rather flimsy plastic gears in the angle drives is so they can act as a kind
> of "fuse" in-case of cable / lambarda or speedo problems. He says using much
> stronger metal gears could cause other problems


   Chris,
      I find this very interesting. Every Delorean angle drive I've rebuilt, 
and it's been quite a few, has had metal gears in it. I've never taken a 
Delorean angle drive apart that has had plastic gears inside.

    Marty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:30:12 -0800
From: greglinstad <greglinstad_at_dml_resrchintl.com>
Subject: Seattle St. Pat's Parade

March 16th - ST. PATRICK'S DAY PARADE

The Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club will again this year be attending the St. Patrick's Day Parade through downtown Seattle. I understand that President Bush will be attending the Chicago Parade to view D-REX and although that could be a great opportunity for press coverage, Washington State Senator Maria Cantwell will be riding in 'The Spirit of America' (aka VIN# 2248) with our own Toby Peterson (aka Mr. 'TOBY-TABS') and I'm sure it will be well televised locally. 
Greg Linstad
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club
VIN#  3507  120,000+ miles
Washington plate "RUSTLSS"
pndc.org 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 17:36:49 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Technical Musings: DIY Fan Module (long)

Hi all,

I thought I'd share with you my thoughts on the fan wiring system that 
I've been puzzling over for the past few days on and off. Here's what 
I've come up with (advanced apologies for those who already understand 
the system, but I thought it'd be an idea to explain things from first 
principles):

I caught myself wondering how the Fanzilla worked and how I could 
duplicate its function for my own car. I soon realised that the 
sequential engagement of the fans is really simple to achieve. So 
simple, in fact, that I reckon anyone with a bit of soldering experience 
should be able to build it, given the right components.

With the fan-fail bypass installed in your car, the fans are simply 
hard-wired to the relay that engages to turn them on. This relay is 
engaged under two conditions: when the engine reaches a certain 
temperature, and when the A/C compressor engages (which is does 
regularly when the A/C is on). It's the latter of these which cause the 
biggest headache. The reason for this is that the two fans draw a 
considerable amount of current on start-up (for maybe a second or so), 
and given the signal to the relay coincides with the A/C compressor 
engaging - let's just say I hope you're not drag-racing at the time!!!

There is a second problem with the system: The relay which powers the 
fans is a single 40A standard relay. The fans draw more than 20A each on 
startup. There are documented procedures for re-wiring the 
fan-fail-module's socket to let each fan have an independent relay. This 
is a good thing from an engineering point of view, but doesn't solve the 
"kick" problem, and doesn't give you your fan-fail light back.

The Fanzilla elegantly solves the "kick" problem by sequentially 
engaging the fans, with a couple of seconds pause between each, and 
initially a couple of seconds after the compressor engages. It is this 
functionality I wish to duplicate. It also replaces the fan-fail light 
function. Ironically, this function is the most difficult to achieve 
(I'm not trying to copy the Fanzilla here - I am merely 
reverse-engineering what it does to save myself some pennies!). I feel 
confident in providing a design for sequential fan engagement, but not 
to replace the fan-fail light function as yet (there are many many ways 
of doing this, but I'm not happy with any of them, because they are 
either not perfect from an engineering point of view, or too complex for 
a "hobbyist" to duplicate).

My design involves constructing two INDEPENDENT circuits - one for each 
fan, and each fan is driven by an independent relay (I believe the 
Fanzilla uses solid-state devices for driving the fans - this is a 
better system, if you can get it right, but I want to keep things simple 
and reliable for a "hobbyist" to build). Each one of these individual 
circuits uses only seven components - and only one has more than two 
legs! Add to this the relays themselves, and a protection diode, and voila!

Is this safe?

I work as a network engineer, and the words "single point of failure" 
exit my lips every day. I wanted to make sure that if something goes 
wrong with the board, you could only lose one fan (short of a fluke). 
You rely on the single wire to the original relay to turn the fans on, 
so from that point onwards, my design runs two seperate systems to 
control the fans.

My design will plug strait into the relay sockets for the fan relay and 
fan-fail module. You get two further relay sockets, and into these you 
plug a new relay for each fan (I found some neat relays in Halfords the 
other day which have a blade fuse socket as part of the case). The cost 
of the components (not including relays) is about $30 - and most of this 
is the cost of two new relay sockets! I got all my components from Farnell.

Would people be interested in this design? I want to build and test one 
myself before publishing the circuit, and I need to think further about 
how to achieve the fan-fail light. From a "pure" sense, the light must 
come on if one of the fan motors goes short or open circuit. The 
function of the light is not to check whether your relay has come on - 
which is all the "reverse" function of wiring the light to the fan 
output achieves.

Right - enough "blinding with science"! The circuit it simple, it's 
designed so you'd be hard pushed to bugger it up, it's easy to test, and 
should anything go wrong, you're far less likely to lose both fans than 
with the stock setup.

I'll have a crack at building mine next week.

Martin
#1458
DOC UK




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:21:40 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: [doc] Lotus Chassis

With all this talk of the lotus Frame I just hade to upload a picture into
the photo section, This is a new lotus frame just developed for the keen
DIYer of KIT or Classic. I'm sure you'll see the similarities, even though
the lump is in the front.

It's in Miscellany called Lotus Chassis

Cheers
Paul
#6463

www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk


----- Original Message -----
From: <Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com>
To: <doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 1:38 AM
Subject: [doc] Lotus Chassis


>
>
> The DMC-12 and the Lotus Elan/Esprit shared many similarities. The Lotus
guys
> say the DMC-12 chassis is the Lotus Esprit S 3 chassis. Colin Chapman said
-



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:56:43 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Cruise Control

I am interested in finding out what Cruise Control units will fit easily
on our cars.  I would like a specific model/make and where you bought
it.   I'm driving to Memphis and that's a LONG drive without CC.  A unit
with easy install would be great. Hopefully a Masters in automotive
repair is needed!!  Anyone in the Northeast driving there?  Maybe we
could convoy.

Thanks

Tom
#005732

http://www.geocities.com/outatime81




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:10:55 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh_at_dml_zeta.org.au>
Subject: ELECTRICAL BLUES/FUEL PUMP SHIELD - PICS

Pics of the damaged electrical loom and the cause have been posted to the 
'photo' section of Yahoo.

In addition, pics of my fuel pump water shield are also posted.

Lance H
Aust




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/