From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 953
Date: Friday, March 22, 2002 1:29 PM

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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Today the first of many
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>

2. Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company Concours
From: James Espey <>

3. Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company Concours
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>

4. Woodward Dream Cruise
From: "marvin" <>

5. Re: Low Voltage at Idle
From: "DMC Joe" <>

6. Shock dangers?
From: Farrar Hudkins <>

7. Brake discs
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>

8. Re: An offer worth looking at...

9. Re: Another solution for window felt
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

10. DMC Parts Free - Pay For Shipping Follow-Up #2 (Long)
From: <>

11. windows
From: "edherrmann" <>

12. DMC Parts Free For Cost of Shipping - Follow-up
From: <>

13. Re: Today the first of many
From: "tmpintnl" <>

14. DMC Parts Free - Pay For Shipping Follow-Up #3
From: <>

15. Heads up for upcomming auto shows
From: "Sean Howley" <>

16. Re: Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company Concours

17. DeLorean Owners Association web page looks GREAT!

18. Re: wiper arm jet
From: "fivetwofive" <>

19. A/C cycling switch
From: "The Atkinson Family" <>

20. Delorean Magazine Articles

21. Foster Grant TV Commercial
From: "erikgeerdink" <>

22. FANTASTIC Game Pro-Fusion CD-rom??????

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:41:05 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>
Subject: Re: Re: Today the first of many

I think I may have got to part of the reason for my coolant loss, On the
coolant bottle I removed the pressure cap top clean ( just to make me feel
better :-) ) and noticed on the top it is marked as 22 psi. From peoples
replies the system should be pressure tested to 15 psi. I would guess that
with this cap not releasing the pressure correctly in is forcing the coolant
out through a rubber joining pipe.

What do you think



Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:59:02 -0600
From: James Espey <>
Subject: Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company Concours

As in Cleveland in 2000, DeLorean Motor Company is pleased to be sponsoring
the concours portion of Ken Koncelik's upcoming DeLorean Car Show in Memphis
this summer. With the DOA's different format expo this fall, Ken's event in
Memphis will be the ONLY concours held for all of 2002.

Previous Millennium winners were:

1999, St. Louis - Kris Smith
2000, Cleveland - John Yerskey and Bill Winegard
2001, Belfast - Adrian Rice
2001, Houston - Ron & Cheryl Wester

As in the past, we will have one class, for all model years with newly
designed trophies for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place (as well as prizes donated by
DeLorean Motor Company) and is limited to just EIGHT entrants. In the event
that more than eight owners wish to enter, pre-judging will be done to
qualify the final eight entrants.

A special mailing list has been set up for concours competitors, judges and
those interested in either competing or judging - lurkers are also welcome!

Unlike the other classes of judging being done at the DeLorean Car Show, the
concours judging is based on how closely the car adheres to the engineers
and designers originally intended specifications.

A copy of the current Concours Judging Manual and Judging Forms can be found

Entries for the concours are being accepted now, and you get a registration
form at the DeLorean Car Show web site here:

You will need the free Adobe Acrobat PDF Reader to view/print this file. If
you have already registered for the show, PLEASE EMAIL me directly at 'james
(at)' and I can get you registered.

Watch for more details in the coming weeks!!

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396

281/441-2537 Voice
281/441-2813 Fax


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 15:18:00 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <>
Subject: Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company Concours

Can you be more accurate with this statement?

I believe the correct statement is that judging is based on how closely the car adheres to the DMC Houston written manual...  

-----Original Message-----
From: James Espey []
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 2:59 PM
To:; dmcnews
Subject: [usadmc] Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company Concours


Unlike the other classes of judging being done at the DeLorean Car Show, the
concours judging is based on how closely the car adheres to the engineers
and designers originally intended specifications.

A copy of the current Concours Judging Manual and Judging Forms can be found



Message: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:42:30 -0500
From: "marvin" <>
Subject: Woodward Dream Cruise

If you like cars, if you like people, if you like noise from exhaust, if you like the smell of exotic fuels, the Dream Cruise is beyond your wildest imagination. It took me 1 1/2 hours to go 1 mile (with the wings up) up Woodward Avenue in Detroit! People are lined up 3 - 5 deep, gawking, sitting on chairs, walking in the static car display areas, and generally, with amazed expressions, as they view the biggest Saturday cruise night in the USA. The cruise covers over 3 miles, of concentrated cars of every make, model, colour, ever known to mankind, plus car displays, food, souvenirs and future memories. It's where it's at, if you're into cars. The cold beer was great too! 
Drive your dream at the dream cruise.

Marvin Stein
was #4239 - still looking for another
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:57:08 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <>
Subject: Re: Low Voltage at Idle

Glad to see that you finally solved your problem.

You said:

               "My whole voltage problem was do to a larger pulley then i

I suspect, that if it had the wrong size pulley, you did not purchase your
alternator from a DeLorean vendor ; correct?

DMC Joe/Help Club
Information & Store
DeLorean Website Directory


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:38:01 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <>
Subject: Shock dangers?

Hi, list! A question for you automotive gurus out there ...

As a resident of New Orleans, which has the worst roads in the Western
World, I've noticed that the suspension on a car tends to wear out
pretty quickly down here. When I buy my DeLorean, should I just go ahead
and factor in the PJ Grady shock upgrade, or would it be okay to ride on
bad shocks for a little while while I save up for a new suspension?

Speculation is welcome. Thanks, all.

Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
'98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 22:49:38 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <>
Subject: Brake discs

I'm looking for some tips on how to change the front brake discs please.

What size of a spanner do I need to remove the hub setup on the front, and
once that's off is the rest quite simple?

Just treated the car to a complete set of discs today.

Belfast Brake specialists were able to order me 'DELOREAN' Discs both front
and back from their supplier, who had them sitting on the shelf!!!!!!!

22 each for the front
32 each for the rear

Ordered and in my hands in 24hrs, not bad hey and they also got me a Master
brake cylinder of the shelf for a splendid 72,
I'm really going to miss these suppliers in Northern Ireland when I move



Message: 8
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 18:19:53 EST
Subject: Re: An offer worth looking at...

Wait....Just don't give em away. Put em' on E-Bay or If you really don't need 
the money keep em'. You might have to paint your car someday.... wrote:
   I got the perfect thing for you!  Since I recently changed out my front brake pads on my car since they squealed SOO badly, I now have them available to anyone who wants to be noticed when they stop the car.
 > Later,
 > Nick Pitello >>


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 00:10:32 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: Another solution for window felt

I suppose it could be done this way. The biggest concern would 
be keeping things from getting too messy. Assuming that the 
rubber portion the felt is adheres to is still snuggly in place on 
the steel bracket on the door. You could probably hold the front of 
the felt w/a pair of long needlenose pliers, and use a screwdriver 
to push the felt against the rubber. But given the hieght of the 
window sill on the tollbooth windows, you'll have alot of difficulty 
positioning your hands. Removal of the upper door trim is much 
easier, and will allow you to do the job thorough enough so that 
you don't have to worry about doing it a 2nd time.

When you remove the upper door trim, you can have access to 
pull the bracket, and reglue the felt entirely. Also, if the rubber 
portion has come loose, you can now re-crimp it tighter with your 
hands to allow it to have a more firm grip on the bracket. To glue, 
I first attached the rubber to the bracket, and used Krazy Glue 
gel. It's important to slather it over the entire contact area 
between the felt and the rubber. But, you cannot have too thick a 
layer of glue. Too much, and it can bleed thru the felt. I use small 
metal paper clips to hold everything in place. When I say metal 
clips though, it's the black, triangular ones with the silver 
handles. I leave them on for about 10-14 minutes, and 
everything is good to go. This same method worked quite well in 
the door trim next to the A pillars. The clips are held on long 
enough to let the glue set into position, but not too long that they 
risk marring the surface.

To be a little more explicit, the problem with the window felt is a 
combination between both the glue, and the dropping glass. The 
felt is as long as the glass _at_dml_ it's widest point. So when the 
glass drops below, it loses contact with the front portion on the 
felt. When it comes back up, it pushes against the glass. In high 
temperatures, the glue can soften. Thus each time the glass 
goes up, it moves the felt up a little bit. Until finally, the felt has 
moved enough that durring the up travel, it can dig under the felt, 
and seperate it. Once this is done, on the down travel, the glass 
will actually grip the rubber, and pull it from the steel bracket. And 
then when the glass goes up and down, it can make contact with 
the bracket, and will be scratched. So now you can see how the 
problem snowballs!

DMC Houston sells new window felt that overcomes this 
problem. Their strips are shorter, thus they never loose contact 
with the glass, and should not allow the glass to dig under the 
felt to cause a seperation. I would also imagine that they have 
also improved upon the glue as well to be more resistaint to 
softening . But  you would have to ask them that to know for 
certain.  If you do order the strips from them, you do have the 
advantage of ordering real Fir-Tree clips at the same time to 
replace any damaged ones you may encounter durring the 
process. Real clips are always more stable than the "ghetto" 
ones that you have to make from cross-overs _at_dml_ the local auto 
parts store.

I'm not advocating any one particular route to take for you window 
repairs, just stating two that work. DIY, or NOS: It's up to you...

vin 6585 "X"

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Can this be done without disassembling the door?


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:49:04 -0800
From: <>
Subject: DMC Parts Free - Pay For Shipping Follow-Up #2 (Long)

The emergency brake cables and rotors have been spoken for. The spings are still available.

I have had several requests asking me to share my experience and the cost of the total project, including an estimate of the labor cost. So here goes.

This was not a cheap job. It all started with a broken passenger side lower balljoint as I was backing out of the driveway. Thank goodness I wasn't on the interstate doing 70 mph (112 kph)! Although driving a car up a 3-5% incline driveway with the front right corner supported by a rolling floor jack is difficult and nerve wracking!

Since I needed to take the suspension apart anyway, this was a good time to lower the car and replace the OEM shocks. I also needed a brake job and since the car was out of action anyway. Then along the way I broke a few things taking it apart.

I DID ALL THE WORK MYSELF EXCEPT THE ITEMS BELOW THAT NEED SPECIAL TOOLS. I imagine that you could just take the parts total and estimate that as the labor cost. Or call a local mechanic or one of the DMC service centers and ask.

Parts I needed, (all are from PJ Grady unless otherwise noted) and cost are below:

Master Cylinder $175.00
Rotor Set $499.75
Front Pad Kit $55.00
Rear Pad Kit $45.00
Emergency Brake Pads $60.00
Right E-Brake Cable $54.28
Left E-Brake Cable $47.96
2 Caliper Rebuild Kits (front & rear) $73.44
Pepboys - Brake Fluid/Brake Cleaner/Grease/Anti squeal compound $20.00
DMC Houston- Upper Balljoints $109.60
DMC Houston-Lower Balljoints $171.58
Lower Balljoint reinforcement collars $23.95
High Performance Suspension Kit $680.00
DMC Houston - Wheel Bearings $92.62
DMC Houston - Dust Shield for speedometer (2) $29.38
Checker Auto - Sping Compressor - $55.00
DMC Houston - Bolt for rotor brake shield (another broken part) $.68
Labor to have balljoints pressed into the control arms $60.00 (Local Shop)
Labor to have wheel bearings pressed into the rotors $90.00 (Different Local shop)- They jacked up the price when they found out it was for a Delorean... Those B#$#$#d's! Last time I let them do any work for me.

For a grand total of (Shhhh - Don't tell my wife.): $2,346.24 not including shipping!!!

As I mentioned to somebody else. Toby? (I can see Toby-Tabs in my near future.) Money sure flys when you're having fun. But I really feel it was money well spent, other than parts ordered I didn't need. 

The job took longer than it should have from the time of the broken ball joint, about 15 months. Most of that time was waisted, fretting over the coil springs, I let them intimidate me. But my travel schedule also played a part, I am only home on the weekend. Once I got started working again, only weekends, and not more than 4-6 hours a day, with delays waiting for parts that I broke or forgot to order, it only took me about 4 weeks! Somewhere around 32-48 hours total. A proffessional would have done it in half the time or less, I'm sure. (Side note: I'm an accountant by trade and getting my hands dirty and greasy really bothers me.) Tip: Laundry detergent is hard on your skin but does a great job of cutting the grease and getting your hands clean.

I couldn't be happier with the results and boy what a feeling of satisfaction doing all the work myself! I learned a lot and understand the suspension and brakes (especially the e-brake, I took the e-brake caliper assembly(s) apart about 6 times) a lot better! I even feel more confident driving my car, knowing all those parts are brand new! 

Sorry for such a long post but that's the whole story.

Dan Haney


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 01:44:17 -0000
From: "edherrmann" <>
Subject: windows

I saw this post last week but couldn't figure out the way to rework 
the window in the door to get more of an opening. Someone said it was 
written up in an early delorean world. How much work would it be and 
how much would it cost to do it. I hate to run the air every time it 
gets near 70 degrees. A larger window opening would be great to get 
the heat out.  Ed


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:41:41 -0800
From: <>
Subject: DMC Parts Free For Cost of Shipping - Follow-up

Well as can be imagined the emergency brake cables are gone. Plus I have two back up positions just in case. The other items are still available.

I also wanted to share a bit more information about the work I performed. First DMCJOE, or more specifically, his web site for Delorean Services deserve an assist! The Tech section concerning adjustment of the e-brake was just what I needed. Thank you once again for coming to my aid

I can also shed some light on why the drivers side wheel bearing seized up. The dust shield for the bearing (part no. 100025) was on my car backwards or toward the inside of the car. I didn't know this at the time but when I took the other side apart it was installed the opposite way. Meaning the "flange" portion was toward the bearing or outside of the car. This made me curious, this time an assist goes to DMC Houston and the Online Parts store with the parts manual. It clearly indicates that this little part should face toward the bearing or outside of the car. Makes perfect sense in retrospect, after all it is a dust shield for the bearing! Thanks Guys and thanks again for sending the new wheel bearings so quickly!!

Plus, I called PJ Grady more than once to ask them questions and many of the parts were from their shop so they deserve applause as well. Thanks Rob, Debbie, Jamie and everyone in NY!!!
 Thanks to everyone and yes, even the DML gets an assist for giving me the courage to take on such a big project. 

The support available for our marquee is truly exceptional. Thanks and Happy motoring!

Dan Haney
vin. 03254


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 01:24:09 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <>
Subject: Re: Today the first of many

Paul - Long ago, I did have many of the joints leaking.  I changed all 
of the hose sections, replaced all clamps with good, sturdy stainless 
steel clamps, and tightened the "you know what" out of them upon 
installation.  If you have old hoses, or original clamps, it is 
entirely possible for the leaking to occur at the joints.  As for the 
pressure rating of the cap, unless the system is very hot, the 
pressure shouldn't build up to that level.  I don't think that the 
proper cap is constantly relieving pressure during normal operation.  
Others may have an opinion on that.  It certainly is better to have 
the correct cap, to avoid pressure-related damage to the system in the 
event of an over-heat.  

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_b...> wrote:

> with this cap not releasing the pressure correctly in is forcing the 
coolant out through a rubber joining pipe.


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 18:18:58 -0800
From: <>
Subject: DMC Parts Free - Pay For Shipping Follow-Up #3

I should have added a bit to my last post.

I hope no one got the impression that I feel the prices I paid for these parts was high. I think if you check out the price for parts for most exotic collectables our cars are quite reasonable.

And as I said previously, all of our vendors are great people/companies to deal with. I got gouged a bit for one service item from a local shop (double their normal price), but I never have to deal with them again and I let them know it too.




Message: 15
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:22:39 -0500
From: "Sean Howley" <>
Subject: Heads up for upcomming auto shows

I just thought that I would give everyone a "heads up" on a couple of shows coming up this year.  First, the 15th British Car Gathering at Townsend, TN.  This will be occurring May 4.  I will be uploading a scan of the info. I received for the show.  Last year, I was the only D there while the year before, there was 2 and the year before that was 5 (or 6).  We are going in the wrong direction.  The space is limited and the last two years, they fill all available spaces very early in the year.  There is only enough room for 165 cars!  If you are interested in going to this event, please let me know (and I will be uploading the registration form soon).  Also, if you are going, you will need to sign up soon!

The other event is the Euro 2002 even held at the BMW plant at Greenville, SC.  All makes from Europe are welcome.  This event is huge and gets bigger every year.  The grounds at the plant are extensive, but it is filling up more and more every year.  If there is one show (other than Ken's) that you go to, this HAS to be the one.  The day before the show (Friday), they will be giving tours through the assembly plant - unbelievable if you have never seen anything like this!  During the show, they will also have several driving events where you will be able to drive cars that they supply to you (two years ago, they used Z3's and last year, they used Porsches).  There are many different driving events - some of witch you will be competing against other intrants via timed laps and will be awarded top prize for your efforts (if you have top times - obviously).  They also have many other events going on, too.  They do not have the registration ready yet, but when they do, it will be available on their web site.  In addition to the registration form (when they complete it), they already have all of the details on the site about when and what is going on.  Here is the site:  I strongly urge many of you to come.  I truly is a great event!

Sean Howley

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 22:03:01 EST
Subject: Re: Millennium: The DeLorean Motor Company Concours


<< Unlike the other classes of judging being done at the DeLorean Car Show, 
 concours judging is based on how closely the car adheres to the engineers
 and designers originally intended specifications. >>

Well said Marc. 
I would like the judges to list their credentials and their specific training 
on what exactly adheres to the engineers & designers blah, blah, blah.
 Marc and I both know of an original 1983 owner and his exceptional concourse 
condition car. The judges didn't convey the confidence in their judging 
ability and specifically their knowledge of what was in a 1983 in a specific 
VIN range. This has caused me to be apprehensive bringing a 1983 Concourse 
car to a concourse event.
Best Wishes,


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 22:25:43 EST
Subject: DeLorean Owners Association web page looks GREAT!


While sending information via email to the DeLorean Owners Association about 
the Washington, DC Grand Prix, (This is my 8th year as a member) I noticed 
that their web page has been updated. The new changes include production 
changes, buying tips, and much more. 
The web site looks great!

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
DOA 4743


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 06:17:38 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <>
Subject: Re: wiper arm jet

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> What are folks using for their wiper arm jet?  Mine is missing. The 
> original part is $14.  What is it?  
> -Steve


You can get a "inexpensive" one off of a 1988 Dodge Caravan,they use 
the same basic setup.Hope that helps.



Message: 19
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 01:30:05 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <>
Subject: A/C cycling switch

Hi Group,

I tried adjusting the cycle time of my cooling fans with the A/C cycling
switch part # 100744.  It didn't make much difference.  Do I need a new
cycling switch?

Before adjusting the switch my cooling fans were only off for about five
seconds when the A/C was on before coming back on again.  Now they run
almost constantly so I made some difference but in the wrong direction.

I read the "Cooling Fans Cycle Excessively in the Technical Information
Library" and included the URL below and it says if adjusting the switch
makes no difference then you should replace the switch.  Does everyone agree
with that?


Mike Atkinson
vin 16232


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:31:25 EST
Subject: Delorean Magazine Articles

Has anyone used the site 

to search and read about the DeLorean?

I am not affiliated with this service.

Best Wishes,


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 15:05:10 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <>
Subject: Foster Grant TV Commercial

On eBay right now there is an auction for a TV commercial for Foster 
Grant Sun Glasses. The seller says there is, what appears to be, a 
Delorean that jumps a bridge in the commercial.  The auction number 
is 1524747330.  Does anyone know if this is true or not?  



Message: 22
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 23:13:56 EST
Subject: FANTASTIC Game Pro-Fusion CD-rom??????

(Moderators note: Please respond directly to Mike and not the DML if you have any info you can help him with. Marty, this weeks moderator)

Found this on ebay. Anyone know anything about this game?


Car Fitbaw

Requirements: Windows (all), 32MB RAM, DirectX 7, 8MB video memory
From the developer: "Car Fitbaw is a multiplayer game of soccer. control your 
delorean and try to score a goal. first to five is the winner.features 3d 
graphics and delorean 3d objects. other games available from this publisher.


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