From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 968
Date: Monday, April 01, 2002 8:27 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: factory keys
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

2. Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>

3. Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

4. Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: A/C cycling switch
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

6. Re: factory keys
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

7. RE: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>

8. RE: My car won't let me in.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

9. Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

11. Re: Hot Start UPDATE--- Wiring Schematic
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

12. Relay Socket
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

13. Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1_at_dml_att.net>

14. Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: catalytic heat shield
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

18. Door Stuck
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

19. Re: Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

21. Re: Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

22. Re: Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

23. Re: A/C cycling switch
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk_at_dml_cox.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:30:58 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: factory keys

It was Jamrs Espey of DMC Houston that posted that info. At the time 
they were only for door keys (already cut, not blanks).

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Quite some time ago, someone posted that they had aquired a bunch 
of 
> original keys from the factory. It also stated that if you looked 
> under your headliner and found the correct #'s, they may be able 
to 
> match the numbers and get you an original key. I can't remember 
who 
> made the post! Was it DMC Houston? Anyone remember who I can 
contact 
> about this?
> 
> Nick




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:37:11 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
Subject: Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system

Rob at PJ Grady has designed and sells "hardcore" angle drives. 
Basically replacing all the plastic soft gears inside the angle 
drives with stainless steel gears and added some newer slicker lube.

here is what's stated on his site:
Hardened Type 416 Stainless Gear Set 
Removable Double Square Drive Cable 
Synthetic Assembly Lubricant with "three times the shear strength" 
of molybdenum grease 
Three Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty

http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=20

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> 
> Does anyone here have or know of a suitable replacement 
> for the speedo drive system?
> In the past year or so it has failed on me 3 times and frankly
> I am getting pretty fed up with this stupid little system taking
> up resources I had reserved for other repairs.
> Untill now I have spent allmost over $500,- on parts and 
> repairs of this speedo drive effectively replacing allmost 
> the entire system below the Lambda-counter TWICE.

[moderator snip]



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:07:37 +0200
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Need tank cleaning advice

Hi!
Don't replace the tank! I makes no sense at all. I know it's hard to clean
it if you don't know how to do it. When I needed to clean my tank out I did
the best thing I could. I called Rob at PJ Grady and asked him how to do it.
He replied with only one word: ACETONE ;). This I think is the best advice I
got from Rob (thanks Rob, you're the best!). Acetone dissolved the black goo
stuff right away! I then used paper towels to clean the tank. After I was
done it looked brand new inside.
So, get yourself some acetone (from ie Home Depot..) and lots of paper
towels. You'll be surprised how easy it is to get rid of that black stuff.

Good luck
Tom Niemczewski
vin 6298
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl



----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>


> Buy a new tank. This is what mine looked like:
>
> http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02229.jpg
>
> I don't know what they cost in the US, but over here the cost made it
easier to buy a new
> tank. We couldn't figure out a way to clean it - that crud is like tar!
>
> Martin
> #1458
>






-- 



Tego nie znajdziesz w zadnym sklepie!

[ http://oferty.onet.pl ]






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 10:30:59 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions

Jason, The fuel accumulator is $99.00 and can last no telling how many years. 
I put mine on 5 years ago and it still works fine, some of the factory 
originals are still on and working, even though I must admit they are 
beginning to fail now. I applaud the Temporary fix to over come the 
accumulator problem, but it's not that expensive and will give you years of 
proper service. 
The Hot start relay should only be used in case of emergency and was 
conceived to keep from getting out of the car to switch the wires to get 
started.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 09:46:38 -0600
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: A/C cycling switch



The primary purpose of cycling the system is to prevent the evaporator core
from getting too cold and icing up to the point you get no air flow through
it. It won't ruin your system even if it cycles continuously as long as the
refrigerant level is with-in specs but depending on the atmospheric
conditions, you may discover the air flow coming into the cabin begins to
lessen as the evaporator ices up. If your system seems to be functioning
fine I wouldn't worry about cycling times, 5 seconds, 7 seconds, 10 or
whatever, as long as your not experiancing an icing problem. If the cycling
times becomes more frequent without anyone fooling with the pressure switch
it's because the refrigerant level has dropped. Then you have a leak in the
system.

Bruce Benson

> In short, what I'm saying is everything works well.  It's just that
before,
> the cycling was too quick " about every 5 seconds at idle " and now after
> I've fooled with it the cycling is a little longer between cycling at
higher
> rpm's and still cools fine.  However, I would like to know if I've done
> something that could damage the system?
> Mike Atkinson
> vin 16232





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:05:59 -0800
From: "William F. Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: factory keys

Contact James Espey at DMC Houston.  I acquired two lighted cut keys for 
my car.

Bill Lane
#3635




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:20:42 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham_at_dml_cwcom.net>
Subject: RE: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system

Jan,

I think you'll find one of the big parts dealers are working on this
problem, I can't say much more as my info is privileged. Just wait a while,
all will be revealed!

Chris P DOC UK


-----Original Message-----
From: janvdwouw [mailto:jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl]
Sent: 31 March 2002 14:56
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with
system


Hello everyone,

Does anyone here have or know of a suitable replacement
for the speedo drive system?
In the past year or so it has failed on me 3 times and frankly
I am getting pretty fed up with this stupid little system taking
up resources I





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 12:19:08 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: My car won't let me in.

Does you car have door guides installed?


-----Original Message-----
From: Payne [mailto:bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 12:04 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] My car won't let me in.


<SNIP>
My other problem with the door is that when I close it, it will
rarely let me open it again.  The latch mechanism is getting really banged
up and the white plastic has cracked.  I've tried every possible combination
of adjusting the front and rear striker pins.  Some positions make it
slightly better and others won't allow me to open the door from the outside
at all.  Also, every time I close the door it pushes on the drivers side
lock rod just enough so I can't open it again without holding the key in the
unlock position and pulling hard on the handle.
<SNIP>



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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 13:33:56 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system

In a message dated 3/31/02 8:01:12 AM Central Standard Time, jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl 
writes:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> Does anyone here have or know of a suitable replacement 
> for the speedo drive system?
> In the past year or so it has failed on me 3 times and frankly
> I am getting pretty fed up with this stupid little system taking
> up resources I had reserved for other repairs.
> Untill now I have spent allmost over $500,- on parts and 
> repairs of this speedo drive effectively replacing allmost 
> 

Jan,

have you purchased PJ Grady's HardCore series angle drive? it is somewhat 
expensive but comes with a 3 year unlimited milage warranty! it is about $165 
i think and it comes with type 416 stainless steel gears and lubed with a 
special grease.  if you buy one of these, a new plastic drive cup, and 
lubricate your lower speedo cable with 90 weight gear oil, you should be in 
good shape.  

Also, there is an issue with the lower speedo cable - there are either the 
OEM ones which are a little bit too long for their own good, allowing 
binding, and then there are the 'new' ones which are a bit shorter.  if you 
have the original one, it should be zip-tied to the A/C line to help support 
it and keep it relatively straight.  perhaps yours is the long lower speedo 
cable and you are missing your zip tie?  Try this first!

I did all of the above when my speedo failed last year and it hasn't given me 
a single problem since!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:44:06 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Need tank cleaning advice

Eric,

There are several ways to clean the tank.  Rob Grady suggested using acetone
to dissolve the crud, so that is the method I used.  Removing my tank wasn't
necessary, but it made reaching all the inside corners easier.  Unless you
have some frame rust in the area to clean up, then it is less work to clean
the tank without removing it.  As an abrasive, I've found that shop rags
from the local automotive stores work well (the non-terry cloth variety).
Paper towels tend to be too slick and don't clean well.  I wet the rags down
with acetone and with a little elbow grease it cleaned the orange fuel
stains off of all the parts.

There is a small capillary tube (it looks more like a wire) that vents an
air pocket from the rear of the tank to the small vapor opening by the fill
port.  Be careful not to bend or kink it.  I didn't like the way mine was
banging around in the tank, so I sprung it a little to keep it near the top
and put a gasoline resistant cork on the end it to stop it from scratching
around in the tank.

There is a steel stud at the bottom of the tank that holds the fuel baffle.
Mine looked a bit rusty but was good otherwise.  Some people have had them
rust and fall out.  This part appears to me to be the same kind of stud that
holds the trailing arm shields on.  If it isn't too late, ask the vendor for
a stainless steel nut to replace the original steel one that tends to rust.
Stainless hardware in metric is hard to find locally.

When you put your fuel lines back on, don't try torquing them to spec IF you
are replacing the OEM steel fittings with brass (like the ones I got from PJ
Grady).  The brass is much softer and will slip in your wrench if you try to
torque it like a steel fitting.

So have you found a fuel distributor yet?

Walt




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 23:42:09 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Hot Start UPDATE--- Wiring Schematic

On 31-03-2002 Jason Jones wrote:

> I studied the Schematic some more and my first assumption
> I think is wrong.. It appears that on START a Pos voltage
> is sent to one of the connectors on the Cold Start Valve (CSV),
> the Thermal Timer  and on to the Hot Start Relay which closes
> the circuit sending the Negative back to the CVS thus activating
> the CSV on every start...  The Thermal Timer acts as a "Short"
> (Since there is resistance it is not a short but you know what
> I mean)  if the Temp is considered hot it's "relay switch"
> Closes and "shorts out" or bypasses the CSV...
> thus preventing the CSV from activating.

ALLMOST right...
The Thermal Timer (TT) is IN SERIES with the ground for the CSV
and OPENS when hot (more than 35 Degrees C / 95 Degrees F).
This being hot can be either from the enginetemp being higher
or the heater inside reaching the aforementioned temperature.
If you look in your WorkShopManual in sections D:01:09 and D:01:10
there's an extensive explanation of the CSV/TT-system.

What the HotStartRelay (HSR) does is SHORT the TT to ground,
so the CSV fires every time AND als long as you crank your car.
From what I understand, SpecialT's HSR has a switch you push when
you need the HSR to operate, that resets itself after use, so you
don't run the risk of flooding your engine when the CSV is NOT needed.
If you want to be sure, contact John Hervey, I'm sure he'll be
more than willing to fill you in.

What I think is a possibility too is to put a jumper or switch
between the UR and ground on the HSR-socket (which BTW resides in
the fuse/relay area and usually rests somewhere near the RMP-relay,
near the cabins' rear wall), so when you activate the switch the
CSV fires as long as you crank.

> I can not seem to find my Thermal Timer  I read somewhere that
> someone said it was next to the coolant tank but I can find it
> anywhere.  

You can find the TT in the PartsManual in section 2-2-1,
item 10, part# 102125. It looks like it's on the waterpump,
but since I can't check on my car right now, I'm not 100% sure.

> If this is right it seems I could simply switch off the Thermal
> Timer during hot starts since it appears to activate on each
> start depending on the Thermal Timer......

Well, as explained above you should actually short it, the HSR-socket
is THE spot to make the modification, since it was meant for this!

> Input please 

Enough input for ya? ;-)
Good Luck,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 22:36:25 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Relay Socket

Hello Everyone,

CUrrently i'm writing up a how to, on my fan delay box.  Right now 
I'm looking for a connector that goes inside a relay socket so you 
can plug them into another realy socket (male connector, spade 
sticking outward).  I want to order some of these, and include a 
source in my write up as to one possible way to mount it in the 
car.  Article will be out soon.

- Shain
#10104




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 02:09:39 -0000
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system

Dear Jan,
     I don't have anything to offer in answer to your question, 
however, I have had my car since April of 83, bought new with 17 
miles on it. I now have over 46,000 miles and the only time the 
speedometer acted up was shortly after I put on brake dust shields 
and the pressure on the plastic cap wasn't sufficient anymore to keep 
it tight and spinning. I fixed that problem and it has performed 
perfectly ever since. I still have the origional angle drive.
     Every couple of years I remove the screw and add some 
lubrication. Nothing more. Good luck in your search.
Gary Masie 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> 
> Does anyone here have or know of a suitable replacement 
> for the speedo drive system?
> In the past year or so it has failed on me 3 times and frankly
> I am getting pretty fed up with this stupid little system taking
> -------------------------------




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 02:11:16 -0000
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.

This week, I read in the archives that the three brass screws on the 
intake manifold are to be lightly seated.  Did that, and the car now 
idles at 600RPM with no accessories on.

The idle motor seems to work.  It vibrates with the engine off.  I am 
unclear if it works when the engine is on, as it is difficult to tell 
if the vibrations come from it or the engine.  When I unplug it with 
the engine running, there is no difference in the idle speed.  When I 
plug it back in the idle speed changes for less than a second and 
returns to about 600.

The frequency valve on the right valve cover buzzes like an angry 
hornet, and the full throttle switch when pressed increases the idle 
about 50 RPM, so clearly it functions and the connections are good.

Begging for suggestions.  I've searched the archive for HOURS!.

-Steve #3302




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 21:45:08 EST
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions

I just replaced the fuel accumulator in one of my DeLoreans and it took 10 
minutes.
It fixed my cold start problem right away. The only real trick is having 
short metric wrenches and a car lift. Warren at DMC Houston was quite helpful 
in talking me through it.

Daniel



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 22:25:25 EST
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: catalytic heat shield

A properly working cat will be much hotter than one that is gutted.  a 
misfire on one side of the engine will make that cat hotter also.
  Don VIN 6860



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 00:52:22 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.

From your description you probably have a defective idle speed motor or idle
speed ECU.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv


----- Original Message -----
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 9:11 PM
Subject: [DML] Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.


> This week, I read in the archives that the three brass screws on the
> intake manifold are to be lightly seated.  Did that, and the car now
> idles at 600RPM with no accessories on.
>
> The idle motor seems to work.  It vibrates with the engine off.  I am
> unclear if it works when the engine is on, as it is difficult to tell
> if the vibrations come from it or the engine.  When I unplug it with
> the engine running, there is no difference in the idle speed.  When I
> plug it back in the idle speed changes for less than a second and
> returns to about 600.
>
> The frequency valve on the right valve cover buzzes like an angry
> hornet, and the full throttle switch when pressed increases the idle
> about 50 RPM, so clearly it functions and the connections are good.
>
> Begging for suggestions.  I've searched the archive for HOURS!.
>
> -Steve #3302





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 19:12:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Door Stuck

In my constant quest to try to get the striker pins on my passenger door
aligned correctly, tonight I tried removing the washer from the rear pin.
Every time I close the door, the door is pushed forward slightly by the
rear pin, so I figured that adjusting it inward would help. Wrong. The
door did close nice, but now it won't open. I've tried locking/unlocking
the door, using the inside and outside handles, pushing down on the door
first before trying it, got inside and took the upper door panel off to
see if there was a problem with the rods, and even used sheer force to try
to get the door open. It's still stuck. Does anyone have any suggestions
on what the door is jammed against, and/or how I can get it open again?

And just to prove to myself that I have no door skills, I just walked
through the screen door on my house. :)


Just another note, I do have door guides.


As always, thank you in advance.

-Christian




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 23:17:21 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.

Steve, What exactly are you trying to do. If it's to get the idle up, then 
adjust the lower screw clock wise on the throttle body arm and after you get 
it where you want it, then adjust the top screw to activate the micro switch. 
Information is on the web site or you can email me direct.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/ref_main.shtml



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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 01:41:39 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)

Martin,

Thanks for your explanation. The reason I mentioned this is because I
recently had a customer complaining about excessive pump noise and noticed
that he had a spring inserted in the fuel pick up hose. I replaced the hose
with a new unit and the noise went away. Of course there is always the
possibility the pump was incorrectly installed and the proper reinstallation
may
have taken care of the problem.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)


> A suction hose can never operate at higher than atmospheric pressure - ie
vacuum is not a
> force in its own right, it is merely a lower pressure than the outside. In
this case,
> atmospheric pressure.You are unlikely to create vacuum bubbles at this
level of suction
> and even if you did, they'd disappear the moment they pass through the
pump.
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> DMC Joe wrote:
>
> >  Fuel under high pressure may be cavitating as it passes
> > the spring coils the resulting bubbles will increase pump noise.






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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 01:42:18 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system

Steve is absolutely correct. The Hardcore Angle Drive available from both my
web site and PJ Grady's is the answer to the angle drive blues. We have sold
and installed these improved units since there introduction and have had no
failures.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv


----- Original Message -----
From: "dmcman82" <srubano_at_dml_optonline.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 9:37 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with
system


> Rob at PJ Grady has designed and sells "hardcore" angle drives.
> Basically replacing all the plastic soft gears inside the angle
> drives with stainless steel gears and added some newer slicker lube.
>
> here is what's stated on his site:
> Hardened Type 416 Stainless Gear Set
> Removable Double Square Drive Cable
> Synthetic Assembly Lubricant with "three times the shear strength"
> of molybdenum grease
> Three Year Unlimited Mileage Warranty
>
> http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=20
>
> Steve
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > Does anyone here have or know of a suitable replacement
> > for the speedo drive system?
> > In the past year or so it has failed on me 3 times and frankly
> > I am getting pretty fed up with this stupid little system taking
> > up resources I had reserved for other repairs.
> > Untill now I have spent allmost over $500,- on parts and
> > repairs of this speedo drive effectively replacing allmost
> > the entire system below the Lambda-counter TWICE.
>
> [moderator snip]






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 01:43:40 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Need tank cleaning advice

Tom,

You said:
      "........ lots of paper towels."

To remove crud from the interior of your fuel tank with acetone or other
suitable cleaner a your friendly Scotch Brite pad will go much further than
a bunch of
paper towels.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 10:07 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Need tank cleaning advice


> Hi!
> Don't replace the tank! I makes no sense at all. I know it's hard to clean
> it if you don't know how to do it. When I needed to clean my tank out I
did
> the best thing I could. I called Rob at PJ Grady and asked him how to do
it.
> He replied with only one word: ACETONE ;). This I think is the best advice
I
> got from Rob (thanks Rob, you're the best!). Acetone dissolved the black
goo
> stuff right away! I then used paper towels to clean the tank. After I was
> done it looked brand new inside.
> So, get yourself some acetone (from ie Home Depot..) and lots of paper
> towels. You'll be surprised how easy it is to get rid of that black stuff.
>
> Good luck
> Tom Niemczewski
> vin 6298
> tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
>
>
> > Buy a new tank. This is what mine looked like:
> >
> > http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02229.jpg
> >
> > I don't know what they cost in the US, but over here the cost made it
> easier to buy a new
> > tank. We couldn't figure out a way to clean it - that crud is like tar!
> >
> > Martin
> > #1458
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Tego nie znajdziesz w zadnym sklepie!
> [ http://oferty.onet.pl ]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>





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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 03:37:11 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: A/C cycling switch

Thanks Bruce,

I'll keep an eye on the cycling time and just go from there.  Thanks for the
advise.

Mike Atkinson
vin 16232





Subject: Re: [DML] A/C cycling switch


" as long as your not experiancing an icing problem. If the cycling
 times becomes more frequent without anyone fooling with the pressure switch
 it's because the refrigerant level has dropped. Then you have a leak in the
 system."

 Bruce Benson



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