From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 969
Date: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 10:06 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Angle Drive Blues and stuff...
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

2. Re: Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: My car won't let me in.
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

4. Re: My car won't let me in.
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

5. Re: Door Stuck
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

6. Stainless Steel Illusions PDF format
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: My car won't let me in.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions
From: "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>

9. Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Stainless Steel Illusions PDF format
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain_at_dml_mindspring.com>

11. Door Un-Stuck!
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

12. Track Day is Sat. June 1st
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

13. Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>

14. Re: Door Stuck
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com

15. RE: Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

16. brake runout specs (revisited)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: Door Un-Stuck!
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>

18. Re: Angle Drive Blues and stuff...
From: "dmcman82" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Stainless Steel Illusions PDF format
From: "davvet2" <davvet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Idle speed blues
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: I also need tire help.
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. missing eBay seller
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

25. Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 17:17:02 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Blues and stuff...

First of all, thanks for all the responses by everyone so far.

most of them are known solutions that don't work for me:
- the HCR-drive from PJ Grady is actually a REBUILD,
  so there's a core-exchange. My previous drive was damaged
  by the PO of my car in such extent that is was only good
  for the scrapheap.
  Just out of curiousity I dismantled the thing, only to find METAL
  gears inside, where does this notion about plastic gears come from?
  have a look in the Photos-section; I put a couple of pics up
  in the "Techie Stuff" folder
- at the time my AD first failed on me I neede a replacement FAST
  due to an upcoming Inspection, there was a witing list of 8 weeks
  for the HCR at the time, so instead I went with an OEM.
- The AC-line that was suggested I ZIP-tie the cable to is probably
  the brakeline? I have the later style support bracket instead...
- The Digital Solution DMC is working on is still too vague and
  as I understand it 'll be more than a year befor they're available.
- I allready have the shorter lower cable, a new cable support bracket,
  wheather proofing kit and new Drive Cup.

At the moment I'm up and running again: someone local was able to
fit a new cable to the AD, but this turned out to be a little too thin.
This afternoon I fitted a small piece of metal in the square in the cap
so that the cable would be snug in place, put some ducttape around the
edge of the Cap and everything is working again...
Let's hope this holds out untill the Digital Solution by DMC is there...

Happy Easter! (Better late than never ;-)

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 15:20:25 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle speed blues. Still need suggestions please.

Before doing ANYTHING get a good tach on the engine so you can 
accuratly see what is going on. Don't trust the tach in the dash as it 
isn't possible to read small changes and isn't always accurate. I 
think the idle rpm is 770 plus minus 50. If it isn't it can be 
adjusted by turning the screws on the stop by throotle spool. If you 
touch one you have to adjust the other that hits the idle micro. Only 
touch these adjustments after being sure that the ignition system is 
PERFECT and the mixture is properly set and there are NO VACUUM LEAKS. 
Any of these things will affect idle speed and quality. If the engine 
is idling at 600 ? and is really smooth and doesn't stall why don't 
you just leave it alone?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> This week, I read in the archives that the three brass screws on the 
> intake manifold are to be lightly seated.  Did that, and the car now 
> idles at 600RPM with no accessories on.
> 
> The idle motor seems to work.  It vibrates with the engine off.  I 
am 
> unclear if it works when the engine is on, as it is difficult to 
tell 
> if the vibrations come from it or the engine.  When I unplug it with 
> the engine running, there is no difference in the idle speed.  When 
I 
> plug it back in the idle speed changes for less than a second and 
> returns to about 600.
> 
> The frequency valve on the right valve cover buzzes like an angry 
> hornet, and the full throttle switch when pressed increases the idle 
> about 50 RPM, so clearly it functions and the connections are good.
> 
> Begging for suggestions.  I've searched the archive for HOURS!.
> 
> -Steve #3302




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 07:12:23 -0800
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: My car won't let me in.

I do not have the door guides installed, or at least I don't on the drivers
side anyway.  For some reason only the passenger side does.  I was told by
someone at DMC Houston that they are not necessary if you have the striker
pins in the right place.  But if it helps I'll try them!

payne
----- Original Message -----
From: Marc A. Levy <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] My car won't let me in.


> Does you car have door guides installed?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Payne [mailto:bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com]
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 12:04 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] My car won't let me in.





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 11:57:44 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: My car won't let me in.

Payne wrote:

> I do not have the door guides installed, or at least I don't on the drivers
> side anyway.  For some reason only the passenger side does.  I was told by
> someone at DMC Houston that they are not necessary if you have the striker
> pins in the right place.  But if it helps I'll try them!

I believe properly installed door guides can benefit any DeLorean.  Good door guides make
the door more idiot proof.

Perhaps my car is unusual, but I find that I can get many different results by pushing my
door closed in different ways.  Further, the door closes differently depending on the
slope of the ground on which my DeLorean is parked.  Extrapolating from these facts, I
believe that even with your striker pins perfectly aligned, it is possible for someone to
push the door closed unevenly.

The door guides reduce this variability, so that anyone on any hill can almost always
close the door properly.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:26:32 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Door Stuck

> Every time I close the door, the door is pushed forward slightly by the
> rear pin, so I figured that adjusting it inward would help. Wrong.

I think maybe the flange on the end of the pin has jammed in the latch.  I
don't know of any way to reach it while the door is closed.  If the end of
the pin is visible inside the door, maybe you can reach something on it to
loosen it?

FWIW, mine does the same thing.  The end of the striker pin put a dent/gouge
in the latch area.  I thought about removing a washer or two, but first I
need to put my hinges in the right place.  A previous owner did a nice job
of wrongly adjusting the hinges and denting the top of the door & T-panel in
the process.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 18:05:38 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Illusions PDF format

Is this legal?  Go to ebay and search the following number

1528041057 

Someone put Stainless Steel Illusions into PDF format and is selling 
them on eBay for $20.  Copywrite laws??????

Erik
4512




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:24:49 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: My car won't let me in.

In 10 years of DeLorean ownership, 6068 has never given me any door problems (knock on stainless).  I'm not sure how or why, but I'm not about to investigate because if it aint broke...

I thought maybe my car was unusual!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Substelny [mailto:msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu]
> Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 11:58 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] My car won't let me in.
<SNIP>

> Perhaps my car is unusual, but I find that I can get many 
> different results by pushing my
> door closed in different ways.  Further, the door closes 
> differently depending on the
> slope of the ground on which my DeLorean is parked.  
> Extrapolating from these facts, I
> believe that even with your striker pins perfectly aligned, 
> it is possible for someone to
> push the door closed unevenly.
> 
> The door guides reduce this variability, so that anyone on 
> any hill can almost always
> close the door properly.
> 
> - Mike Substelny
> VIN 01280

> 



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:58:24 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions

Thanks Daniel for the advice.  Does any one have a step by step guide as to
how to install the Fuel Accumulator? any pictures?  The reason is I will
have to bring my D into a repair shop locally who would be billing me per
hour and if I show them that this should not take longer than "1/2 hour" I
have some recourse if they claim that it took them more time than this to do
or screwed something up.  Also I would like to advise them of all they need
to know about the car,  dangers,  warnings etc... before they start work on
it.  Thanks everyone!



Jason 







From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

Date: Monday, April 01, 2002 8:42:29 AM

To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [DML] Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions



I just replaced the fuel accumulator in one of my DeLoreans and it took 10 

minutes.

It fixed my cold start problem right away. The only real trick is having 

short metric wrenches and a car lift. Warren at DMC Houston was quite
helpful 

in talking me through it.



Daniel





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.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 22:58:21 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)

Hi Joe

I've "been there and got the T-shirt"! Currently I'm running my original hose cut off
halfway to the baffle, with an in-line pickup filter. The "pancake" style ones have
caused me major trouble in the past. I also tried the "spring insert" and I personally
think it's a great idea as long as you pick the right spring! I tried one that was way
too stiff and at the point where it kinks to the base of the pump suddenly gets put under
all the more stress and in my case cut the supply completely!

I am working with a hydraulic place I know to get a suitable steel-braided hose. I'm
going to see them this saturday.

Once again, it's a case of yours truly trying to find a cheaper, though not inferior
solution. I know where the replacement "OEM" hoses are coming from and am convinced
they'd fix the problem 99 times out of 100 - but one of those hoses, shipped from the US
would cost more than a new fuel pump would here...

All the best

Martin
#1458

DMC Joe wrote:

> Martin,
>
> Thanks for your explanation. The reason I mentioned this is because I
> recently had a customer complaining about excessive pump noise and noticed
> that he had a spring inserted in the fuel pick up hose. I replaced the hose
> with a new unit and the noise went away. Of course there is always the
> possibility the pump was incorrectly installed and the proper reinstallation
> may
> have taken care of the problem.
>
> Regards,
> DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
> Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
> DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 22:24:04 -0000
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Illusions PDF format

This should get everyone going on the copyright discussions..:) 

Regardless, if it saves me spending $200 on a book that someone is 
trying to make $190 profit on because they found it in a used book 
store before I did, I'd rather get a copy of it on CD and use the 
rest on Delorean parts!! :) I don't think they will be reproducing 
this book for a few hundred Delorean fans that happen to want the 
book, unfortunately.  For the pdf version on CD, I can only imagine 
how long it took to scan this stuff in.  

If they could only reproduce fuel distributors and front fenders, 
we'd be all set! :)

Pete

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Is this legal?  Go to ebay and search the following number
> 
> 1528041057 
> 
> Someone put Stainless Steel Illusions into PDF format and is 
selling 
> them on eBay for $20.  Copywrite laws??????
> 
> Erik
> 4512




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:24:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Door Un-Stuck!

Alright, it finally gave way. I ended up having to crawl over to the
passenger side and pull on the inside door handle and push outward, while
a friend pulled on the outside door handle and at the bottom of the door.
Opened right up.

Now I just need to fix my screen door. :)

-Christian




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 17:26:54 EST
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Track Day is Sat. June 1st



    The Maryland area NSX club is organizing a track day at Summit Point's 
Jefferson Circuit
for Saturday, June 1.   There will be three run groups (beginner,
intermediate, advanced) with instructors and lots of track time.   Cost
is approx.  $185-225, depending on the number of drivers.  Open to all
types of cars, including DeLorean, Lotus, Renault Alpine, etc., etc.   If 
interested, pls. email Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

    I will be away from 04-02-02 thru 05-15-02. (( DeLorean Owners in Japan, 
please send another email for my schedule while I'm in Tokyo...I would be 
delighted to join all of you for dinner))

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 00:32:52 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown_at_dml_web.de>
Subject: Re: Need tank cleaning advice

What worked very well for me:

- remove the (empty) tank from the car

- fill it completely with water

- pour plenty of washing pouder in it, and stir well for some minutes

- let it sit like that for two days

- with a hard brush, you can clean out everything (If your arm is not like
Popeye's you should get it through the opening)

- pour it out, rinse very thourougly, dry very thourougly


... looks like new again!!


bye,

Ralf.


> I removed the tank baffle and cleaned it. As I began to inspect the
> inside of the tank, I wasn't surprised to find lots of crud at the
> bottom. But I hadn't stop to consider the best way to actually remove
> this flake-like crud. (looks like rust particles, even saw a small
> leaf!)
>
> Anybody got any suggestions that worked for them?
> Thanks
>
> Eric
> Dunedin, FL
> VIN# 5557





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 18:22:17 EST
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door Stuck

When I got my D it was in parts and the door either stuck open or did not 
close, today they operate perfect. I the process of aligning them they got 
stuck numerous times. I was always able to open them buy placing a flat 
prybar between the bottom of the door and the bottom of the door opening, 
with the proper force they would open up, of course I was very careful and 
took precaution not to damage the door buy placing the right shims on the 
prybar(cedar shingle) if this buy chance does not work u may have to release 
them manually from the internal mechanisms.



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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 17:44:44 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up with system

Jan-
I was just wondering-- do you drive in snow and/or rain much? Does your car
sit out and freeze? You may be getting water into your angle drive and it
may be breaking because it is actually and really frozen, as in ice.

I had a similar problem with a different car years ago, back in Alaska....
(but not any more, moving is one way to fix that!)
-Kevin
Houston
#4687

-----Original Message-----
From: carnut4849 [mailto:gmfm1_at_dml_att.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 8:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Alternatives for Angle Drive needed, getting fed up
with system


Dear Jan,
     I don't have anything to offer in answer to your question,
however, I have had my car since April of 83, bought new with 17
miles on it. I now have over 46,000 miles and the only time the
speedometer acted up was shortly after I put on brake dust shields
and the pressure on the plastic cap wasn't sufficient anymore to keep
it tight and spinning. I fixed that problem and it has performed
perfectly ever since. I still have the origional angle drive.
     Every couple of years I remove the screw and add some
lubrication. Nothing more. Good luck in your search.
Gary Masie
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> Does anyone here have or know of a suitable replacement
> for the speedo drive system?
> In the past year or so it has failed on me 3 times and frankly
> I am getting pretty fed up with this stupid little system taking
> -------------------------------



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 20:15:27 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: brake runout specs (revisited)

I've heard some bad clunking noises long enough under my car, so I did a
complete inspection of every suspension component and found no problems.  I
suppose I have some loose body bolts, but I'm not ready to take the rear
fascia off to tighten them.  Anyway, while I had the car up in the air with
the wheels off, I decided to check my rotor runout since I told y'all that
I'd eventually get back to you about it.  My front cross-drilled rotors had
no runout that I could measure, but the rear ones are a different story.
Here are the specs:

Left rear run-out (inside) 0.0275 in / 0,70 mm
Left rear run-out (outside) 0.0205 in / 0,53 mm
Rotor thickness uniform _at_dml_ 0.476 in / 12,09 mm

Right rear run-out (inside) 0.0270 in / 0,69 mm
Right rear run-out (outside) 0.0260 in / 0,66 mm
Rotor thickness uniform _at_dml_ 0.484 in / 12,29 mm

Compared to David T's spec of .0025" or Jan's of 0,15 mm, mine are way off.
Now here is the rest of the situation:  My brakes seem to be working fine
with no pulsation whatsoever.  I am getting some occasional squeal on the
right side, but I don't see any glazing.  If I leave the rotors alone, then
I feel like that excessive(?) wobble is going to wear my calipers out.  If I
have them turned, then doing some math indicates that when they are through,
my rotors will be less than 11,7mm which according to Jan & DMC Joe is going
to be too thin.  And these are almost new rotors from PJ Grady.  These are
supposed to be premo parts.  A local brake guy told me that all new rotors
should be turned before installed on the car just for general principle's
sake.

So what should I do?  Turn them or leave them alone?

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 20:53:33 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_sybercom.net>
Subject: Re: Door Un-Stuck!

Actually your rear door pin hitting the door is quite common. And I'll bet
the front pin is just short too. The fix for the rear pin is a 1-1/2" hole
saw. Remove the pin, wrap the drill bit of the hole saw with some tape so
you don't bore out the threads in the pin nut and saw through the fiberglass
to the frame. I believe Houston sells the rubber grommet to cover the hole
when your done adjusting the pin.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Williams" <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 5:24 PM
Subject: [DML] Door Un-Stuck!


> Alright, it finally gave way. I ended up having to crawl over to the
> passenger side and pull on the inside door handle and push outward, while
> a friend pulled on the outside door handle and at the bottom of the door.
> Opened right up.
>
> Now I just need to fix my screen door. :)
>
> -Christian
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 02:27:17 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <drrub46_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Blues and stuff...

My mistake. The gears were not plasic. The gears are made of soft 
metal which is what causes the the angle gear to fail. If not 
lubricated properly and the slightest binding will cause the gears 
to fail. That is why it is critical to make sure the angle drive is 
properly lubed.

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> First of all, thanks for all the responses by everyone so far.
> 
> most of them are known solutions that don't work for me:
> - the HCR-drive from PJ Grady is actually a REBUILD,
>   so there's a core-exchange. My previous drive was damaged
>   by the PO of my car in such extent that is was only good
>   for the scrapheap.
>   Just out of curiousity I dismantled the thing, only to find METAL
>   gears inside, where does this notion about plastic gears come 
from?
>   have a look in the Photos-section; I put a couple of pics up
>   in the "Techie Stuff" folder
> - at the time my AD first failed on me I neede a replacement FAST
>   due to an upcoming Inspection, there was a witing list of 8 weeks
>   for the HCR at the time, so instead I went with an OEM.
> - The AC-line that was suggested I ZIP-tie the cable to is probably
>   the brakeline? I have the later style support bracket instead...
> - The Digital Solution DMC is working on is still too vague and
>   as I understand it 'll be more than a year befor they're 
available.
> - I allready have the shorter lower cable, a new cable support 
bracket,
>   wheather proofing kit and new Drive Cup.
> 
> At the moment I'm up and running again: someone local was able to
> fit a new cable to the AD, but this turned out to be a little too 
thin.
> This afternoon I fitted a small piece of metal in the square in 
the cap
> so that the cable would be snug in place, put some ducttape around 
the
> edge of the Cap and everything is working again...
> Let's hope this holds out untill the Digital Solution by DMC is 
there...
> 
> Happy Easter! (Better late than never ;-)
> 
> JAN van de Wouw
> Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
> Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
> 
> #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
> 
> ------------------------------




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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 02:38:42 -0000
From: "davvet2" <davvet2_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Illusions PDF format

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Selling a copy of a copyrighted and published work
goes beyond fair use, regardless if the work is 
currently in print or not.  Please consider this 
thread closed.

Mike G.  Moderator of the week
*****



There is no justification for theft!

When you buy pirated material, you are as guilty as the guy that 
copied the material. International copyright laws are very strict 
on "bootlegging", and I suspect that Ebay will knock this auction 
down - soon !


JC






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 03:34:19 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle speed blues

There are either 2 or 3 micro switches by the throttle spool. Two if  
a 5-speed, 3 if automatic. On all cars there is the idle micro (it 
turns on the idle circuit) and the full throttle enrichment (It puts 
the lambda into full on at WOT). The extra one is the kick-down micro 
for the automatic (it forces a downshift depending on road speed and 
the gear you are currently in.) It is also hit at WOT just like the 
fuel enrichment micro. There are some other plugs over by the firewall 
on the left and right sides that are "extra" if you have a 5-speed. 
Just make sure that you have the extra clips installed to properly 
route the engine wiring and the throttle recall was installed. Strap 
tie anything that might get loose and cause trouble. If you look 
behind the seats you might find the extra plug for the hot start relay 
or as it's known in the movie "The Flux Cacpacitor"!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


BTW where is Fatboy today? Isn't it April Fools Day!!!!!!


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> My #3302 has been an absolute joy since the day two months ago when 
I 
> rescued her from her naughty PO.  So what that something has broken 
> EVERY SINGLE TIME I have driven her.
> 
> This week, I read in the archives thta the three brass screws on the 
> intake manifold are to be lightly seated.  Did that, and the car now 
> idles at 600RPM with no accessories on.
> 
> The idle motor vibrates with the engine off, so that's OK from one 
> perspective (thank the wallet Gods).  The valve on the right valve 
> cover (forgot that bugger's name) buzzes like an angry hornet, and 
> the full throttle switch when pressed increases the idle about 50 
RPM.
> 
> Now for the odd thing... There is a connector directly atop the 
> splash shield (recall thing above the full throttle switch).  There 
> is clearly a place for TWO plugs to connect there, but there is only 
> one connector.  Maybe that's not odd?
> 
> Begging for suggestions.  I've searched the archive for HOURS!.
> 
> -Steve #3302




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:34:36 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)

Walt and group,
 I took my original radiator out two years ago and had it cleaned and I 
cleaned all the leaves and crud out between the condensor and like I said I 
haven't had a problem. No overheating and no FP problem. 
But, As sure as I'm saying this, it will come.
John Hervey


<< John, do you by chance have an all metal radiator with an extra row of
 cores?  This might drop the temperature of the returning coolant by a few
 degrees and keep your fuel tank that much cooler.  I'm still running on the
 OEM radiator and haven't had time to change it out.
  >>



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 03:45:19 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions

The amount of time required depends on how small the mechanic's hands 
are, and how lucky you are. If the connections are really tight or the 
fittings are rusted to the fuel lines it can take a lot longer and get 
expensive. Once the mechanic sees what needs to be done it is really 
a straightfoward job, it is just that it is in a very confined area. 
Make sure he knows that if he twists the fuel lines and damages them 
the only way to replace or fix them is to lift or remove the body! He 
must also know to release all fuel pressure and be very careful of all 
the split fuel as he removes the acumulater. It is a good idea to 
replace the fuel filter too as it will be full of the pieces of the 
diaphram from the acumulater. While the car is up on a lift you or 
your mechanic should inspect everything underneath, especially the 
trailing arm bolts, radiater hoses, suspension, etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Thanks Daniel for the advice.  Does any one have a step by step 
guide as to
> how to install the Fuel Accumulator? any pictures?  The reason is I 
will

> From: dmcnews_at_dml_y...
> Date: Monday, April 01, 2002 8:42:29 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_y...
> Subject: Re: [DML] Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions
> 
> I just replaced the fuel accumulator in one of my DeLoreans and it 
took 10 
> minutes.
> It fixed my cold start problem right away. The only real trick is 
having 
> short metric wrenches and a car lift. Warren at DMC Houston was 
quite
> helpful 
> in talking me through it.
> 
> Daniel
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderator_at_dml_d...
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo
> com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 01:09:16 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: I also need tire help.


I am also searching for tires. The Yokohama AVS Intermediates are out of 
production but you maybe able to find them still. I went to les schwab and 
they printed out a list of tires sized for the delorean. There were a few 
more Yokohama types that would fit, one of them called Yokohama Avids...

I would also like some advice about this. Is it alright to use any tires as 
long as they fit? They have to be able to support a certain amount of 
weight, right? The les schwab people were trying to sell me pontiac tires.. 
Does anyone know what the lettered ratings for tires are, the V, H, S, T, Q, 
R, W, etc..?

Thanks, Adam

>From: "beatlesra1" <beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Whats the best tire?
>Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 02:04:25 -0000
>
>Happy Easter everyone!!
>
>I wanna buy new tires..I know Yokohama's are gone.  What brand would
>be best?  I know this probably has been addressed before but I'm
>relatively new to the group so please help!
>
>Chuck
>Vin#6125
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


_________________________________________________________________
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:09:17 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: missing eBay seller

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Please respond to Walt privately.

Mike G.  Moderator of the week
*****


Has anyone had any problems dealing with a recent seller on eBay who sold 15
different DeLorean items last month?  I'm the high bidder on a right front
fender, but the guy doesn't answer my e-mails.  His eBay ID is "thuls" and a
list of his items is at the following link:

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewLis
tedItems&userid=thuls&since=30&sort=2&rows=25




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 13:44:58 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Need tank cleaning advice

Thanks everyone, all of this was helpful.  Since the crud was not 
nearly bad enough to warrant buying a new tank - Walter, I used your 
idea of acetone on a towel. That did the trick.

I didn't remove the tank, because it doesn't make the hole any bigger 
(laugh) and I can reach all of the corners. Actually this ranks among 
one of the easier jobs I've attempted on this car.  I'm sure the 
payback exceeds the investment in time and money! If anyone is afraid 
to attempt it, I'd ask you to reconsider...it's really quite easy.

Thanks for your help group.

Eric
Dunedin, FL
VIN# 5557



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Eric,
> 
> There are several ways to clean the tank.  Rob Grady suggested 
using acetone
> to dissolve the crud, so that is the method I used.  Removing my 
tank wasn't
> necessary, but it made reaching all the inside corners easier.  
Unless you
> have some frame rust in the area to clean up, then it is less work 
to clean
> the tank without removing it.  As an abrasive, I've found that shop 
rags
> from the local automotive stores work well (the non-terry cloth 
variety).
> Paper towels tend to be too slick and don't clean well.  I wet the 
rags down
> with acetone and with a little elbow grease it cleaned the orange 
fuel
> stains off of all the parts.
> 
> There is a small capillary tube (it looks more like a wire) that 
vents an
> air pocket from the rear of the tank to the small vapor opening by 
the fill
> port.  Be careful not to bend or kink it.  I didn't like the way 
mine was
> banging around in the tank, so I sprung it a little to keep it near 
the top
> and put a gasoline resistant cork on the end it to stop it from 
scratching
> around in the tank.
> 
> There is a steel stud at the bottom of the tank that holds the fuel 
baffle.
> Mine looked a bit rusty but was good otherwise.  Some people have 
had them
> rust and fall out.  This part appears to me to be the same kind of 
stud that
> holds the trailing arm shields on.  If it isn't too late, ask the 
vendor for
> a stainless steel nut to replace the original steel one that tends 
to rust.
> Stainless hardware in metric is hard to find locally.
> 
> When you put your fuel lines back on, don't try torquing them to 
spec IF you
> are replacing the OEM steel fittings with brass (like the ones I 
got from PJ
> Grady).  The brass is much softer and will slip in your wrench if 
you try to
> torque it like a steel fitting.
> 
> So have you found a fuel distributor yet?
> 
> Walt




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