From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 970
Date: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 12:06 PM

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There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Original Finish?
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com

2. key codes for ignition?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

3. Re: I also need tire help.
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

4. Re: brake runout specs (revisited)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 08:44:55 -0500
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Original Finish?

What was the original finish on the upper and lower A-arms?

f



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:05:35 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: key codes for ignition?

I removed my ignition switch last night and found two sets of numbers
stamped on the casing. One 6 digit number on the collar piece and a 3 digit
number on the switch casing. Is it possible the 6 digit number is a lock
code? it doesn't seem likely since it was on the collar and not the lock
side, but thought I'd check. I could use a new legit key since my original
is worn so that it doesn't copy well.

2nd part... how many digits are the keycodes found under the headliners? How
do the headliners come out?




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 14:04:57 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: I also need tire help.

I was the one who mentioned the Avids.  They have the correct rear 
size tire, but not front size tire.  However, since I only needed 
rear tires, it wasn't much of a problem.  Keep in mind though, that 
mismatching tire makes/brands is generally a bad idea.  Those letter 
ratings are speed ratings the tire can safely handle for 6 hours or 
so under ideal conditions.  The Avids I got are T rated, which is 118 
mph.  Performance wise, I can't really comment on them yet.  I only 
had my car out for 600 miles this past 4 days untill the snow fell 
again here in MN yesterday.  But I did notice they are definately 
better than the Goodyear GT+4's that were on there before.  Good luck 
with your search.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> I am also searching for tires. The Yokohama AVS Intermediates are 
out of 
> production but you maybe able to find them still. I went to les 
schwab and 
> they printed out a list of tires sized for the delorean. There were 
a few 
> more Yokohama types that would fit, one of them called Yokohama 
Avids...
> 
> I would also like some advice about this. Is it alright to use any 
tires as 
> long as they fit? They have to be able to support a certain amount 
of 
> weight, right? The les schwab people were trying to sell me pontiac 
tires.. 
> Does anyone know what the lettered ratings for tires are, the V, H, 
S, T, Q, 
> R, W, etc..?
> 





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:09:42 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: brake runout specs (revisited)

If you aren't getting any pedal pulsation, pulling when you apply 
brakes, or shimmy in the steering wheel when using the brakes, or 
brake squeal, leave the brakes alone. Do inspect the pads for 
thickness and the rotors for any gouges but runnout is only checked if 
there is a complaint of pulsation in either the pedal or the steering 
wheel on braking. Runnout cannot be eliminated so the pins that hold 
the rotors will take up a small amount allowing the calipers to 
"float" absorbing minor amounts of runout. Runnout and parellelism is 
best checked off the car to eliminate measuring any play in the 
bearings of the car. Cutting the rotors is done way too casually by 
too many shops. Not only does it reduce the life of the rotor by 
cutting it unnessaceraly but it can introduce stresses which can cause 
the rotor to warp. When changing pads on disk brakes it is not 
required to "cut" the rotors. What is required is to present a fresh 
surface to the new pads so they can "seat in". That is done with a 
drill and a small disk attachment using #80 paper and using a circular 
motion so there is no tendancy to "thread" or have the pads move like 
the needle on a record player where they move up and down causing a 
clicking noise.
 Some things are best left alone. I heard of someone who used to check 
every bolt on his motorcycle once a week. After a couple of months 
they all started breaking off. It seems he gave each one just a little 
 bit of a turn to make sure it was tight. Instead of working on the 
brakes I would concentrate on finding the clunking noise, check the 
trailing arm bolts and spacers again.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I've heard some bad clunking noises long enough under my car, so I 
did a
> complete inspection of every suspension component and found no 
problems.  I
> suppose I have some loose body bolts, but I'm not ready to take the 
rear
> fascia off to tighten them.  Anyway, while I had the car up in the 
air with
> the wheels off, I decided to check my rotor runout since I told 
y'all that
> I'd eventually get back to you about it.  My front cross-drilled 
rotors had
> no runout that I could measure, but the rear ones are a different 
story.





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