From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 971
Date: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 12:59 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Silicone-Waterhoses limited edition
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de

2. applying decals and bumper letters
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

4. Free car show coming up
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

6. ordering proplem
From: "joshp1986" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. Re: brake runout specs (revisited)
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Re: Idle speed blues
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: applying decals and bumper letters
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

12. Zine
From: "dmcboy1der" <dmcboy1der_at_dml_juno.com>

13. radiator fan removal & replacement
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

14. Re: brake runout specs (revisited)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

15. brake vacuum hose go all 'splody!
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

16. Re: Idle speed blues
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

18. First Long drive of #6463
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: shain_at_dml_elecmods.com

20. Re: applying decals and bumper letters
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: brake vacuum hose go all 'splody!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: radiator fan removal & replacement
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 21:15:34 +0200
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
Subject: Silicone-Waterhoses limited edition

Hello DML,

after 20 years the rubber-waterhoses of my DeLorean (Part No.108676 and
108675) right an left besides the waterpump became old and brittle.

Last year I replaced all my other DMC-waterhoses with silicone ones
(silicone hoses lasts forever) and so I decided to make the two 'long' hoses
also from silicone. I asked Samco in GB (www.samcosport.com) to manufacture
both hoses from silicone - and yes, they did. I had to order a number of
sets, so I have some sets for sale.

Price is $100 per Set which includes shipping worldwide!

Pictures, specification and order information on
http://www.steinerklaus.de/dmc/hoses/index.htm


Klaus Steiner
www.steinerklaus.de
VIN #05980
Germany




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 16:17:30 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: applying decals and bumper letters

Hey all,

i just got the complete label set and bumper letters from PJ Grady.  i'm 
wondering if anyone had any tips on either item that will help me when i put 
them on in the next few weeks.  Rob told me the stickers are old and i might 
need a hairdryer to heat them up so i can peel the backing off.  how should i 
prep the vehicle surface?  i use a lot of 'shining' chemicals on my car to 
keep it looking good, so what is the best way to remove the dressings?  i 
want to do this the right way the first time so these labels and letters stay 
on forever!

also, if anyone has any tips on removing old stickers, i'd appreciate advice 
there as well!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 22:29:45 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Fan Sequencer (delay box)

Hello,

Fo everyone that inquired about my fan delay box I just got done
posting the schematics, notes and parts list for the fan delay box in
the files section.  Everything should be their to get you going . 
Please let me know if you find and faults or have questions.

- Shain
#10140




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:13:50 EST
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Free car show coming up

Group,
       It's not often a car show for free comes up, so I figured I would drop 
this one on the list.  This is the 4th Annual "Let's Talk Cars" Spring 
cruise-in.  It will be held on Sunday, April 14, 2002, from 9:00am-4:00pm.  I 
suggest you arrive early b/c there is only so much room in the parking lot.  
It is held in the parking lot of a furniture store at 1628 S. Main Street in 
High Point, NC.  Last year there were over 300 cars there of all different 
makes, so there is a little bit there for everyone.  So dust off your 
DeLoreans and get it out there, and ya'll can't tell me that money is gonna 
stop you from coming to this one!  I want someone to prove to me that there 
are running DeLoreans in and around NC, and that their owners actually drive 
them!  :)  C'mon guys!  It's free!  There is live music and door prizes all 
day long.  Here are some contact numbers if you want more info (336) 882-6101 
(days) or (336) 882-8809 (nights).

Please contact me if you plan on coming or if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000
Iznodmad(at)aol.com

P.S.  I am gonna be going to the Charlotte Auto Fair on Saturday, April 6th 
at the Lowes Motor Speedway.  Anyone in or around Charlotte, NC surely knows 
about this huge event.  I might drive my DeLorean if someone wants to meet up 
and walk around together or even go out to eat afterwards.  Roy, this 
includes you too, since you haven't even seen my car yet!  Drive your D and 
let's compare notes!  Contact me if anyone wants to take me up on this.    


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:33:11 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)

In a message dated 4/1/02 11:31:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, Whalt_at_dml_att.net 
writes:

<<   I
 suppose I have some loose body bolts, but I'm not ready to take the rear
 fascia off to tighten them >>

Walt,

    Question...why do you need to take off the rear fascia to tighten your 
body bolts?  The rear fascia isn't in the way of any of the body to frame 
mounting bolts.  There are 4 in the engine compartment.  2 are in the back 
where the cross brakes goes through the body and then gets secured to the 
frame.  And there are 2 on the sides that get connected through the pontoon 
ends of the body.  You can access those 2 by removing the cover for the 
charcoal canister on the drivers side, and then on the passenger side you 
would have to move the air intake piping thats in the pontoon.  Hope that 
helps.

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 01:40:45 -0000
From: "joshp1986" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: ordering proplem

Hey everybody,
        Last night I tried to order a 1:18 diecast model of the"big-
D".But I got an "error on page".I was wondering if anybody else had 
any trouble ordering from (Diecastmuscle.com)? Please let me know.
               thanks,
                Porterhouse 




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 02:57:36 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)

Hi Shain

First off, before the teccy comments, for all other non-electronically inclined readers,
I should point out that I'm currently working on my own design for the fan delay system.
Mine will emulate the function of the FanZilla, with a few minor changes, and will
restore the function of the fan-fail light (worked out how to do this easily/properly now
- hooray :-)

If you hadn't already worked it out BTW, I am an electronic engineer (who went into IT
and after 3 years am enjoying the chance to get back to some electronic projects!). The
last of the parts arrived today. I will document it in the Tech section of the DOC UK
website. Now for the teccy stuff on Shain's design:

I am having trouble resolving any of your RS part numbers - the only one that works is
the relay which is an 80mm M12 bolt.....

I have had a quick look at your system and several things spring to mind... first off,
you are only delaying one fan. One of the main reasons for the fan delay is to remove the
"kick" when the AC cycles - and therefore you need to delay both fans by different times
so they come on sequentially after the compressor.

You should not need a series resistor with the relay coil. The 3904 tranny (do you mean
RS pn 287-459?) is only a signal tranny capable of 200mA. The 2n2222A (RS pn 295-028) is
cheap, robust and capable of 800mA. It's what I'm using. I don't know from a quick look
how your earth switch works on the relay, but it seems overly complex. You should not
need more than one NPN tranny per relay as a low side switch, and I'm even going to use
it as a poor-man's high-side switch on the fan fail light.

I can't say for certain with the small look I've had, but I don't think you're giving the
relay a solid 12v - 0v switch, but are letting the tranny pull the earth down slowly -
this makes the switching point in the relay very vague and can cause the relay to spark
like crazy (like when you switch a light switch half way).

There's a small typo in your document about connecting up the fan fail light BTW.

All the best

Martin
#1458

shainbrannan wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Fo everyone that inquired about my fan delay box I just got done
> posting the schematics, notes and parts list for the fan delay box in
> the files section.  Everything should be their to get you going .
> Please let me know if you find and faults or have questions.
>
> - Shain
> #10140




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 20:56:51 EST
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: brake runout specs (revisited)

  Walt,
For the sake of getting your money's worth out of your premo rotors, why not 
cut them as much as you can without exceeding the mininum thickness.  If 
there is some part untouched by the knife, sand and deglaze and try to blend 
or match the surface texture so as to avoid slip/grads on application.  This 
may not be ideal but will improve your runout and presurve your 'DeLorean $$" 
to be spent elsewhere. Lets face it, DeeLorean Dollars are hard to come by 
every month.
    Don VIN 6860


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:16:53 EST
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Idle speed blues

David,
What is this throttle recall you mentioned and what condition did it correct?
Don, VIN  6860



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:36:05 EST
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: applying decals and bumper letters

Andy, 

 As far as the bumper lettering I can tell you, "wash, wash, wash."  Dish 
washing detergent will do the trick but use a toothbrush in the letters and 
spend some time on each.  A few weeks ago, (before I put mine on) someone on 
the list said he put his on but they fell right off.  I scrubbed mine with 
the brush three tines and washed the area with a cloth several times as well. 
Then, carefully etched the letters with the provided scuff pad and cleaned 
with clear water and dried completely.  They stuck like a rock.

 Don VIN 6860  



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:54:27 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)

> on the passenger side you
> would have to move the air intake piping thats in the pontoon.  Hope that
> helps.

Nick,

How to you move the air intake piping without removing the rear fascia?  My
pontoon isn't simply hollow.  It has some kind of air baffle/box in it.  I
remember reading somewhere on the DML that you can only access the passenger
side pontoon body bolt by removing the rear fascia.

Walt




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 04:33:25 -0000
From: "dmcboy1der" <dmcboy1der_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Zine

Hey, I was just looking over the issues of the 'Zine,' and I was 
wondering where on earth James came up with such a great idea! 

ttyl!

Ebie






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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:45:41 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: radiator fan removal & replacement

I think I have a squeaky radiator fan.  My a/c blower was the culprit
before, so I replaced it.  Now I have a similar sound, and I'm sure it isn't
the a/c blower again.  I was suspecting my fuel pump since it is now making
random grunts most of the time now, but when I spin the blades on my
radiator fans by hand, the left one makes a chirping sound.  So, I suspect
this is the problem.

I've searched the DML archives on removing the fans, but there isn't a lot
said.  It reminds me of that Chinese puzzle where you have to get the spiky
ball out of the cage.  The only way I got the ball out was by breaking the
cage (by accident, really!)  Is there anything more that I should know
besides that the lower radiator brackets have to come off?  If anyone feels
like talking about their past experiences on the matter, let me know.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:18:25 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: brake runout specs (revisited)

> For the sake of getting your money's worth out of your premo rotors, why
not > cut them as much as you can without exceeding the minimum thickness.
If
> there is some part untouched by the knife, sand and deglaze and try to
blend
> or match the surface texture so as to avoid slip/grads on application.

Don,

Uh, no. :-)  I'm no brake expert, but I do know that the rotor surfaces
require a high amount of precision.  I'm sure that just knocking off the
high spots would not work well.

I talked with Rob Grady today about the rotors.  He explained that there is
only one company that makes them, and they are in Europe.  He said that he
has been selling this brand of rotor for a long time and has never had a
complaint.  My only complaint is from what I could see, but in use on the
car I can't feel any symptoms of runout whatsoever.  It seemed reasonable to
me that so much runout would cause the pistons in the calipers to wear out
prematurely, but Rob explained that this isn't the case.  He explained the
way the piston floats in the calipers and doesn't wear the bore.  That
information and with what David T explained, I decided to leave it well
enough alone.  I thought that I might have seen a slight glaze on the rear
rotors, so I sanded them down with 80 grit while they were still on the car.
It's a tight fit to reach the backside, but a bigger hassle to take them
off.  From my limited experience with brake glazing, apparently there was a
slight layer of glaze that needed to come off.  I should have been more
careful with the break-in, but it is rather hard to drive a car gently when
it really likes to go fast.  Hey, it's not my fault the car a personality.
:-)

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 23:42:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: brake vacuum hose go all 'splody!

Ok. I was under my car playing "guess what the fluid is"; in this case,
the fuild was all over the bottom of the back of my transmission. Not sure
whether I've actually found the cause of that fluid's presence, however my
vacuum hose (part #100842) has split in about half a dozen places.
Amusingly enough (to my novice eye, at any rate), there are several
plastic ties around the hose in question all along the split area. Which
means that those ties are *always* there for reinforcement and the hose
gave out anyway, or someone saw this coming and didn't implement a real
fix.

Grand.

So, pair of questions:

1) What kind of hose *is* that? Anything special? Better just to order it
from vendor of choice?

2) There is a fair amount of fluid in that area which has come in contact
with various things, including the transmission and a large hose nearby.
This fluid *seems* to be coming from the vacuum hose, but if this is
impossible, lemme know. =). If it *is* brake fluid, how damaging is it
(yes, I really *do* know this little. Bear with me, here. :)  ). I assume
(mostly because I RILLY hope) that if brake fluid has hit the
transmission, there isn't much gasket damage potential.  I am braced for
the alternative, however. Should the large hose be considered suspect and
replaced, or will cleaning it be sufficient?

Hrm.

2.5) If it is brake fluid, i'll need to bleed the system, yes?

Finally, I have recieved several private replies (in addition to the
public ones) to my previous questions. I just want to take this
opportunity to thank all of you for your assistance; I couldn't have done
gotten as far as I have without your help.

Noah
#2867 "awaiting reassembly"

Bottleneck Bob is riding fast
Wanted by the law for the freight-train blast





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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 04:54:29 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle speed blues

The throttle recall campaign was initiated while DMC was delivering 
the early 81's. It was discovered that rain could get into the 
throttle cable by the engine and freeze causing the cable to stick. If 
you have a black cover over the throttle spool then you had the recall 
done. If you don't have the cover it is available from the Delorean 
venders along with instructions on how to fill the throttle cable with 
anit-freeze and some seals. Other recalls apply to the following
Inertia switch
Sway bar frame brackets
Ball joints
Other points for what would have been recalls IMHO
Trailing arm bolts
Fan Fail Relay
Circuit Breaker and Relay Upgrade
Central Door Locking Module
Header Bottle
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., DHughes030_at_dml_a... wrote:
> David,
> What is this throttle recall you mentioned and what condition did it 
correct?
> Don, VIN  6860




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 00:05:26 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)

In a message dated 4/2/02 10:36:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, njp548_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:

<< cross brakes  >>
correction....crossBRACE  oops



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:32:07 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: First Long drive of #6463

Well last weekend saw the first long distance drive of
Vin 6463, Belfast to Cambridge. 257 miles since the
body off rebuild.
All went extremely smooth, which is more than I
expected :-) well believe it or not 7 miles from
journeys end a hole appeared in the water hose between
the water pump and header bottle. Luck would have it
that it was only an inch from the end. So I was able
to cut of the offending bit re attach the pipe fill up
with water and carry on.

All in all  was really happy with the performance of
the car.

Best of all... For weeks I have been trying to get my
bonnet to sit flush to the wings, I have removed the
bonnet, elongated holes,changed rubber seals and
lifted the wings with shims, to no avail.
257 mile of driving and its as level as a snooker
table.Just needed to settle down after the rebuild.

Cheers

Paul
#6463


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Everything you'll ever need on one web page
from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts
http://uk.my.yahoo.com



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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 07:06:22 -0500 (EST)
From: shain_at_dml_elecmods.com
Subject: Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)

Hey Martin,

Thanks for the input.  Unfortunately i'm the only one who had the chance to go over my design until now.  In order for the circuit to operate properly i need at least 75 ohms of resistance on the coil, unfortunately the rs model is only 66 ohm, so using the resistor brings it up enough to function.  The 3904 (while not as common here as in the Uk) are readly available, and radio shack carries them so why not.  The 2n2222 should work fine but i haven't tested them yet.  I don't know why your rs part numbers aren't working,  i just bought the parts the other day (don't know how rs work in the uk).  I'm very eager though to see your fan fail indicator circuit though.  As for sparking, i'm not worried about that.  I haven't had any sparking yet, and if there is a momentary low of signal, it still takes 2-3 seconds for the capacitor to step back up in order activate the relay.  I though the purpose of the fanzilla was to turn one fan on then have a delay on the second.  The main fu!
nction of this was to have one fan warm up before the other clicks on, creating a gradual instead of an imediate request of power for the car.  If there both delayed i can't see how it would help, if one waits say 4 seconds to activate, the the other waits 12 seconds, one is still turning on before the other, please clairfy on this so i can make the nessary changes.

- Shain

----- In Response To -----

Hi Shain

First off, before the teccy comments, for all other non-electronically inclined readers,
I should point out that I'm currently working on my own design for the fan delay system.
Mine will emulate the function of the FanZilla, with a few minor changes, and will
restore the function of the fan-fail light (worked out how to do this easily/properly now
- hooray :-)

If you hadn't already worked it out BTW, I am an electronic engineer (who went into IT
and after 3 years am enjoying the chance to get back to some electronic projects!). The
last of the parts arrived today. I will document it in the Tech section of the DOC UK
website. Now for the teccy stuff on Shain's design:

I am having trouble resolving any of your RS part numbers - the only one that works is
the relay which is an 80mm M12 bolt.....

I have had a quick look at your system and several things spring to mind... first off,
you are only delaying one fan. One of the main reasons for the fan delay is to remove the
"kick" when the AC cycles - and therefore you need to delay both fans by different times
so they come on sequentially after the compressor.

You should not need a series resistor with the relay coil. The 3904 tranny (do you mean
RS pn 287-459?) is only a signal tranny capable of 200mA. The 2n2222A (RS pn 295-028) is
cheap, robust and capable of 800mA. It's what I'm using. I don't know from a quick look
how your earth switch works on the relay, but it seems overly complex. You should not
need more than one NPN tranny per relay as a low side switch, and I'm even going to use
it as a poor-man's high-side switch on the fan fail light.

I can't say for certain with the small look I've had, but I don't think you're giving the
relay a solid 12v - 0v switch, but are letting the tranny pull the earth down slowly -
this makes the switching point in the relay very vague and can cause the relay to spark
like crazy (like when you switch a light switch half way).

There's a small typo in your document about connecting up the fan fail light BTW.

All the best

Martin
#1458

shainbrannan wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Fo everyone that inquired about my fan delay box I just got done
> posting the schematics, notes and parts list for the fan delay box in
> the files section.  Everything should be their to get you going .
> Please let me know if you find and faults or have questions.
>
> - Shain
> #10140



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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 10:19:13 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: applying decals and bumper letters

In a message dated 4/2/02 9:41:22 PM Central Standard Time, 
DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> Then, carefully etched the letters with the provided scuff pad and cleaned 
> with clear water and dried completely.  They stuck like a rock.
> 
> Don VIN 6860  
> 

Don,

what do you do with the scotchbrite pad that came with it?  can you explain 
in detail what to do?  i figured it was for taking scratches out of them!  

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 15:41:42 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: brake vacuum hose go all 'splody!

One way to know what is leaking is to ask yourself what resovoir is 
going low i.e. where are you having to add fluid? If you have been 
adding brake fluid then that should be a warning because under normal 
circumstances it only goes down very slowly as the brake pads wear. It 
is possible it is brake fluid and the booster has gone bad allowing 
brake fluid into the vacuum hose, destroying it from the inside out, 
and then leaking out. Remove the vacuum hose at the booster and 
examine the inside of the hose. If it is wet with brake fluid replace 
the booster and the vacuum hose. The other possibility is if you have 
an automatic trans and it is trans fluid. It is not likely you would 
confuse with anti-freeze or engine oil. If it is brake fluid it COULD 
be dangerous to drive the car with this defect as you could loose the 
service brakes. Double-check that the Parking brake (Emergency brake) 
is in good operating condition and if it is brake fluid repair before 
driving the car. Brake fluid will soften the epoxy but if you clean it 
off it will reharden. It will discolor the epoxy and if it lifts from 
the metal it will not readhere. The hose is nothing special just make 
sure the replacement is meant for vacuum as if not it could collapse. 
This might also be a good time to flush, refill, and bleed the brakes 
with Castrol GTLMA DOT 4.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Noah <sitz_at_dml_o...> wrote:
> Ok. I was under my car playing "guess what the fluid is"; in this 
case,
> the fuild was all over the bottom of the back of my transmission. 
Not sure
> whether I've actually found the cause of that fluid's presence, 
however my
> vacuum hose (part #100842) has split in about half a dozen places.
> Amusingly enough (to my novice eye, at any rate), there are several





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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:09:35 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: body bolts (was.... brake runout specs (revisited)

In a message dated 4/3/02 8:56:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, Whalt_at_dml_att.net 
writes:

<< How to you move the air intake piping without removing the rear fascia?  My
 pontoon isn't simply hollow.  It has some kind of air baffle/box in it. >>

Walt,

      What I did when having to access that bolt was spin that air baffle/box 
thing out of of the way of the bolt and I was able to remove the bolt.  I 
just refused to remove that rear fascia just to get a bolt out.  You don't 
need to.  With a little finessing anything is possible.  Maybe its because I 
have smaller hands than you.  But it is possible to rotate that stuff in the 
pontoon out of the way so you can fit either a wrench or a ratchet in there 
to loosen that bolt.  Hope that helps.

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 16:00:12 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: radiator fan removal & replacement

I just replaced the radiater in my car. It was the origional and 
over 20 years old. After having been on a Tour and seen someone else's 
radiater blow the left tank off I was worrried about mine. The 
radiater didn't appear to leak but after removing it from the car I 
was able to see the lower tubes on the left side were leaking 
slightly. Anyway to get the radiater out you must loosen the 
evaporater coil for the A/C and the fans. You cannot remove the fans 
or the plastic housing they are in without first removing the radiater 
as it slides up in between the evap coil and the fan housing. There 
are a lot of small screws and the space is tight. If you are going in 
there be prepared to replace the radiater as it is a lot of work to R 
& R the radiater when it goes bad. Make sure the clips are on the fan 
motor shafts and the fans are tight on the shafts and the fans turn in 
the correct direction i.e. pulling air through the radiater. While you 
are in there also make sure that there are no leaves or crud blocking 
the evap coil, get a brush and clean everywhere. Be careful to replace 
ALL of the ground wire connections at the upper radiater to frame 
brackets, there is one lug on the right and TWO lugs on the left.
Follow the procedure in the Workshop Manual and you will need to wire 
up the evap coil and the fans temporarly while you juggle the radiater 
and shroud into position. You might be able to drill a hole next to 
the rear bearing in the fan motor and get a little oil into it but 
that would only be a temporory fix, the motor probably needs a 
bearing and besides you can't get to the front bearing without 
removing the motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I think I have a squeaky radiator fan.  My a/c blower was the 
culprit
> before, so I replaced it.  Now I have a similar sound, and I'm sure 
it isn't
> the a/c blower again.  I was suspecting my fuel pump since it is now 
making
> random grunts most of the time now, but when I spin the blades on my
> radiator fans by hand, the left one makes a chirping sound.  So, I 
suspect
> this is the problem.
> 
> I've searched the DML archives on removing the fans, but there isn't 
a lot
> said.  It reminds me of that Chinese puzzle where you have to get 
the spiky
> ball out of the cage.  The only way I got the ball out was by 
breaking the
> cage (by accident, really!)  Is there anything more that I should 
know
> besides that the lower radiator brackets have to come off?  If 
anyone feels
> like talking about their past experiences on the matter, let me 
know.
> 
> Walt    Tampa, FL




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