From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 979
Date: Monday, April 08, 2002 10:40 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Strange shaky sliding steering...
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com

2. WHAT IF.... Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!
From: "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>

3. Re: Mirrored Tint
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: Roof Seal Squeaking!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

6. RE: Re: Memphis Delorean Show
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

7. RE: Strange shaky sliding steering...
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

8. Door lock module question
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Memphis name badge
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

10. hot start problem.
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>

11. Re: Dead tachometer
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

12. Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

13. Firing order
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

14. Frozen Throtle Cable???
From: "dmc_delorean_2000" <dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. high hydrocarbon in exhaust
From: Rendy Cheng <rpcheng_at_dml_mail.arc.nasa.gov>

16. Re: Dead tachometer
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

17. Re: Mirrored Tint
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

18. Re: Door lock module question
From: shain_at_dml_elecmods.com

19. RE: Memphis name badge
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>

20. Re: WHAT IF.... Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

21. Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

22. Re: Strange shaky sliding steering...
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

23. Re: Door lock module question
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Firing order
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

25. Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 08:16:03 -0400
From: fjk143_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Strange shaky sliding steering...

Sounds like lower steering column bushing in firewall.  About $25 and a few hours work.



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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 11:27:22 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>
Subject: WHAT IF.... Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!

This may sound like a dumb question but what prevents the fuel pump from
pressurizing the fuel lines with each start.  Everyone agrees that the Hot
Start problems are 95% related to the loss of pressure after the engine
stops.  At what point does the fuel pump say " OK time to recharge the fuel
lines"  I can not image that if I have not driven my D in a week that there
is sufficient pressure still in the system to start the car (on a perfect
Fuel system) .  Which bring me to my next question.  Could you somehow make
the Fuel pump (or whatever is responsible for the pressurization) 
pressurize the system at EACH start rather than relying on the remaining
pressure left in the system? 



I plan on trying the Fuel Distributor adjustment (John Suggested) and let
you all know what happens.





Jason 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 09:48:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mirrored Tint

Jeff

Haven't seen any mirrored tint on a D, but I've got to
tell you that tint is an excellent way to go.  since
the air conditioner can be a bit wimpy at times, the
tint helps a heck of a lot.

Are you going to Memphis?  I'll be there with my car -
- to which I have added a few personal touches like
automatic door openers, chromed wheels, some engine
chroming, new sound system, etc.  Hell, it I didn['t
spend it on the car, I'd probably drink it.

Dick Ryan

--- Phillips Jeff 2dLt AFCA/GCF
<jeff.phillips_at_dml_scott.af.mil> wrote:
> Has anyone used the new mirror tint on their
> DeLorean?  If so I'd like to see a few pictures.  My
> DeLorean will be getting tint this summer and I'm
> exploring the options.
> 
> Jeff
> #10544
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
http://taxes.yahoo.com/



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:44:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)

Mike G.

Thank you!

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jwit6_at_dml_cs.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)


> *****  Moderator's Note  *****
> We certaintly don't want to hold back anyone who has the energy,
> initiative and skills necessary to develop a solution for a problem
> area of our cars.  However, debating the relative merits of NPN vs.
> PNP transitors or the necessity of bypass capacitors for certain
> integrated circuits, as fascinating as those subjects can be, are
> not of general interest to the DML.  It is very easy to create
> a new mailing list for a very specific topic and invite list members
> who are interested in the subject to join.  Once the solution is
> complete or there is significant progress to report, we will be happy
> to moderate that through to the list.
> 
> Mike G  Moderator of the week
> *****  





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:51:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Roof Seal Squeaking!

Stian,

You said:
        "I tried to use some kind of oil on the roof seal in order to get it
more slippery and not sticking, but no luck."

Try silicone spray lubricant available at most auto supply stores. If that
does not correct the problem you may need to trim the seal where it is
sticking. Keep in mind that the door roof seals function is more for
appearance and wind noise than weather sealing.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv



> My problems with the roof seals are as follows: The driver's door is
slower in opening since the roof seal is "sticking" making it difficult for
the door to open. At the same time this makes a terrible squeaking noise!
The passenger door is fine however. Yes, the struts are new and torsion bars
adjusted. This is simply a case of an annoying roof seal.
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
>
> VIN # 06759






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 14:11:39 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Memphis Delorean Show

Did Ken say you cant start any rumors??

Hmm..

Bob Dole, Viagra....  and Pepsi.

"Young Guys".. Hmm, ya got me thinking.

Pepsi + Young Guys =  Britney Spears!!  Wow, Ken got Britney Spears?!



> -----Original Message-----
> From: d_rex_2002 [mailto:rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net]
> Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 7:01 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Memphis Delorean Show
> 
><SNIP>
> Of course, since Ken loves to do spur of the moment trips and meet up
> with Delorean enthusiasts, we took full advantange of Ken's very tired
> condition and got some extremely interesting information regarding a
> few surprises that will occur at the Memphis Show.  Although we got
> the information out of Ken in a tired state, we did promise not to
> divulge the exact surpize events, but we did not promise not to hint.
> 
> Getting back to the SHOW in the Memphis Show, Ken was not just kidding
> when he said there would be a lot of entertainment in addition to the
> information posted on the Deloean Car Show website.  If you do not
> come for the Deloreans (some of the ladies?) you will be more than
> happy that you came along, especially for one of the entertainers.
> And for the guys, you will see much more than just Deloreans.  Ken
> has something planned, especially for the young guys in the crowd, and
> the guys who still think they are young (probably covers them all).
> (Hint: I think even Bob Dole would like it)
><SNIP>



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 14:15:31 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: Strange shaky sliding steering...

Maybe one of your calipers is hanging up?  Check the brakes.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stian Birkeland [mailto:delorean_at_dml_online.no]
> Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 7:54 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Strange shaky sliding steering...

<SNIP>
> 
> My problem occurs only at very low speed or in a standstill 
> downhill while turning the steering wheel, for instance 
> standing still in a downhill/driving slowly and at the same 
> time making a left or right turn. The front will then sort of 
> "slide" on the front wheels - as if it gives way - and the 
> steering wheel will go all the way to one of the sides.
> Strange thing is, after I make the turn and speeding up, 
> everything is back to normal.
> 
<SNIP>




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 11:28:07 -0700
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Door lock module question



I have removed my door lock module to see why my doors are acting crazy. 
Sure enough there is an obviously melted component on the board. I cannot 
tell what this is, but I think it is a diode. It is yellow in color, but i 
think this color is from the underskin, and not normally viewable. It is the 
same size as the two odd shaped diodes next to it. I have taken a picture 
and included the URL to it. It is the yellow thing on the left side of the 
large black wire.

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_1154320/doormodule.jpg?bc5Bzs8AwK5AgMok

I have looked at all the info on the News tech pages, but I am still unable 
to tell what component this is. There are two other diodes on the right side 
of this component and they are labeled with a large "R" and a smaller "D6". 
Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

Adam

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 11:42:26 -0400
From: "marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Memphis name badge

I can make up the badge you want. 
However there is a minimum quantity needed of 50 pieces.
I would need "camera ready" artwork of your design. I have the DeLorean artwork on hand but require whatever else you want put on it. The price would be $3.00 each plus a set up cost of $50.00. They would be custom hot foil stamped on silver plastic 3" x 2 1/4" oval. 
Metal ones are also available.Die cast _at_dml_ $3.00 each, minimum 100 pieces for a 1 1/2" medallion, 3mm thick,with an antique pewter finish. 3 - 4 week production time is needed for either
Marv.

was (81)#4239, was (83)# ?????, soon to be (83) #170?? 
Marvin Stein
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com
web: printeddrinkware.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:17:33 -0400
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting_at_dml_nt.net>
Subject: hot start problem.

i am sure that the instances in which this will help are rare but, here's
how i fixed my hot start problem.  i dumped some injector cleaner into my
gas tank and went for a drive.  i wasn't even trying to fix the problem at
that time, the car was running a little rough so i figured that some cleaner
and a good long ride on the highway would be a good idea.

as it turned out, the car ran beautifully after about 25 km and the hot
start problem hasn't re-surfaced again.  it has been 2 seasons (i only drive
the car in the summer time)...

i thought for sure i would have to replace the fuel distributor but luckily
i accidentally fixed the problem "the cheap and easy way"!

it is unlikely that this suggestion will fix your problem but, give it a
try..  it may be that your fuel system is all gummed up.

:)
mike cutting
11434





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:35:39 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Dead tachometer

In a message dated 4/8/02 7:05:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com writes:

<< Theres a lead that goes onto the distributer that
 feeds to the tacho, you may have disconected that one
 . >>
There is only one wire on the distributor, and it goes to the spark ecu. I 
believe tach is driven off of the same wire that goes from the ecu to the 
coil #1 terminal. Check your wiring diagram to confirm...
Jim



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:09:02 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!

Another point for you to consider:  I don't remember you mentioning that you
changed the check valve on your fuel pump.  The fuel pump itself can't cause
a hot start problem, but the attached check valve can.  On some models they
can't be separated, but on others they screw together with a copper crush
washer in-between.  Keep in mind that the copper crush washers aren't
supposed to be reused.

Perhaps you have a bad ignition coil that opens when it warms up?  But then
that would stall the car, too.

Walt




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:29:51 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Firing order

As I don't have my manuals to hand (moved house, in a box somewhere). Can
some one please remind me of the following:-

Firing order
Rotation direction of the rotor arm
how are the cylinders numbered for the firing order.

Thanks
Paul
#6463

www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:31:52 -0000
From: "dmc_delorean_2000" <dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Frozen Throtle Cable???

hi
Although its april the weather in NY keeps getting cold. If I dont 
use my car for a day or to and its freezing temp outside, my gas 
pedal wont budge. in the engine compartment the throtle moves freely 
but the pedal wont move. even if i let it warm up with the heat on 
the gas pedal just wont move. i can rev the engine from the throttle, 
but thats it. anybody have any suggestions to fix this dangerous 
problem?
Thanks
Tony Izzo III
VIN# 2467




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 13:54:12 -0700
From: Rendy Cheng <rpcheng_at_dml_mail.arc.nasa.gov>
Subject: high hydrocarbon in exhaust

Hi

Yesterday, my Delorean failed the smog check due to high hydrocarbon.  The 
technician played the rpm  little bit but it did not lower the hydrocarbon.
   The technician has suggested me replace the catalytic converter.  I 
thought the catalytic converter support to last forever.  There is no leak 
on my exhaust system.  My car does idle a little low around 600 rpm.  I 
also notice a little less power from the engine and higher fuel consumption 
in recent months.  My car is approaching 30k miles and still has the 
original O2 sensor.  Does any one has idea what else I can do before I 
replace the catalytic converter?

I would like to thank everyone in advance.

Rendy #4220




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 13:34:37 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Dead tachometer

Paul,

This is not correct. The tach leed connected to the distributor connects
directly to the ignition ECU, if this line is disconnected the engine will
not run.

The dash tachometer is connected to the tach pulse buss shared with several
other components. Most tachometer failures are corrected with the
replacement of the tachometer.

Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp_at_dml_att.net
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv



> Theres a lead that goes onto the distributer that
> feeds to the tacho, you may have disconected that one
> .
>
> Cheers
> Paul
>  #6463



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:25:19 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Mirrored Tint

I did a Yahoo poll on what people's opinion is on window tinting.  You might
want to check it out if you haven't already.  I was planning on using the
mirrored film, but ended up using black.  The installer told me that older
cars and cars that have been previously tinted tend to show a lot of
imperfections with the mirrored film (mainly as scratches).  In his showroom
he has a dark booth with a window covered with swatches of film.  The
mirrored variety was almost invisible from the inside -- meaning that it was
hard to tell that it was even on the glass compared to the bare, untinted
area.  This was mainly due to the fact that it did not block UV very well or
much visible light for that matter.  (This mirror film is different from
what the industry calls "limo tint" which is highly reflective and illegal
to use on front windows.)  Of all the varieties he had, I liked the black
the best (and that is what he liked best too), so that is what I had him
use.  The brand I'm talking about is Llummar.  He demonstrated 3 basic
varieties: black, charcoal & mirror in different percentages of darkness.
(The mirror tint only came in one shade since it works by reflection and not
absorption.)  I ended up tinting the quarter panel windows and leaving the
rear window untinted.  Another option was tinting both the rear window and
quarter panel windows with something lighter so that looking through both
pieces of glass wouldn't be too dark, but that would have looked slightly
uneven from the outside and the combined darkness would have restricted
visibility too much for my tastes.  If you are using mirrored tint, it would
be wasted on the back window because this stuff depends on reflected light
to make it hard to see in.  With the rear louvers, there wouldn't be much
light to reflect.  It also doesn't do much at night (meaning that people can
still see you in the car.)  It would be interesting to see a brand that
combines mirror tint with UV metallic but Llummar doesn't make it.

I used my car for a while with only the drivers side tinted from the
previous owner, but I removed it all from the passenger side.  It was
interesting driving around seeing the difference.  I much prefer the
DeLorean with tinted windows because then all the gawkers can't tell when I
notice them.  Then they point and stare without inhibition.  But if they
know I'm aware of them then they usually try to play it cool.  From the
inside, the tint is more noticeable in daylight, and at night there was very
little difference.  People argue that window tint isn't safe at night, and
to that I can say that what is legal for the front windows is fine, but any
darker is too dark to be safe at night.  When I had the new film put on the
passenger side, I left the driver's side for until I can get around to
re-gluing the window frame that is slightly loose.  The new film is a nice
improvement since it is a metallic film that blocks UV instead of the old
film that uses dye pigments that tend to bleach out to a purple color with
continued sun exposure.  It will be interesting to see what shows up at
Memphis.  I'm bringing my camera.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 19:34:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: shain_at_dml_elecmods.com
Subject: Re: Door lock module question

Adam,

Looks like a diode.  If you want I could fix it for you.

- Shain
#10140

----- In Response To -----



I have removed my door lock module to see why my doors are acting crazy. 
Sure enough there is an obviously melted component on the board. I cannot 
tell what this is, but I think it is a diode. It is yellow in color, but i 
think this color is from the underskin, and not normally viewable. It is the 
same size as the two odd shaped diodes next to it. I have taken a picture 
and included the URL to it. It is the yellow thing on the left side of the 
large black wire.

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_1154320/doormodule.jpg?bc5Bzs8AwK5AgMok

I have looked at all the info on the News tech pages, but I am still unable 
to tell what component this is. There are two other diodes on the right side 
of this component and they are labeled with a large "R" and a smaller "D6". 
Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

Adam

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:57:29 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_hscis.net>
Subject: RE: Memphis name badge

   Hi Marv,
	Thanks for the offer, but I am not interested in going in the business. I
only wanted one for myself for the Memphis show.   I have several badges I
had made up that have various types of flashing LED's on them.....The one I
want to use triggers 10 LED's in sequence like a roulette wheel.  It sure is
an attention getter and people remember me!! Ha.  This one has the LED's in
a 2 1/4 inch circle and the electronics are on a pc board which I would not
want to alter.  Thanks anyway.
	Murray
	Vin: 05962
	Lic: DMC-XII





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:49:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: Re: WHAT IF.... Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!

On Mon, 8 Apr 2002, Jason Jones wrote:

> At what point does the fuel pump say " OK time to recharge the fuel
> lines"  I can not image that if I have not driven my D in a week that there
> is sufficient pressure still in the system to start the car (on a perfect
> Fuel system) .

(someone feel free to correct me here; this post is as much for my own
sanity-checking as it is an effort to be helpful)

The fuel pump doesn't re-prime the fuel system per se. When the engine is
cold, the cold-start circuit primes the system a little (read: enough to
start the engine), which allows the engine to start. Once running, the
system pressurizes fully. This is why moving the "grey" and "blue" wires
in the engine compartment allows you to start a 'hot' engine; it forces
the cold-start circuit to prime the system.

> Which bring me to my next question.  Could you somehow make
> the Fuel pump (or whatever is responsible for the pressurization)
> pressurize the system at EACH start rather than relying on the remaining
> pressure left in the system?

Not sure. Would that run the risk of flooding the engine? Anyone? :)

Noah
#2867

Bottleneck Bob is riding fast
Wanted by the law for the freight-train blast




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 01:04:09 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust

Rendy - I don't believe that the catalytic converter would be involved 
in high hydrocarbons.  If the O2 sensor has failed, the fuel injection 
defaults to a rich condition to avoid damage from detonation.  Also, 
if the frequency valve fails, the same is true.  Or, you could have a 
cold start valve gone mad, and dumping fuel at all times.  High 
hydrocarbons indicate an overly rich mixture, so fuel system failures 
or misadjustments would be where to start.  Another possible source 
could be simply that your car needs a tune up, with fresh plugs, 
wires, cap, etc.  If you have a cylinder that isn't firing 
consistently, the unburned fuel will result in high apparent 
hydrocarbons.  Any other thoughts from the rest of you?

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Rendy Cheng <rpcheng_at_dml_m...> wrote:

> Yesterday, my Delorean failed the smog check due to high 
hydrocarbon.  The technician played the rpm little bit but it did not 
lower the hydrocarbon.





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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 00:53:05 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Strange shaky sliding steering...

Stian - This is a shot-in-the-dark, but have you checked the sleeved 
rubber bushings at the connection of the front sway bar to the lower 
control arms?  These bushings maintain the caster angle of the front 
suspension, as well as contribute to the toe angle stability.  If the 
rubber has completely separated from the steel sleeves (mine was 
nearly so last year), you will get variable caster and toe-out, 
depending on the loads being input into the front wheels.  Braking 
loads up the rear-most bushings, and the front-most bushings maintain 
stability in low-speed, and down-shift situations.  The nuts that 
fasten the sway bar to the lower control arms through these bushings 
can back out as well.  This seems to be mostly on the passenger side 
due to motion of the suspension elements causing rotation in the joint 
in the same direction as removing the nut.  These nuts should be 
double-nutted.  I changed these bushings to urethane when I found mine 
nearly totally separated, and have been very happy with the solid 
steering feel, and very stable braking performance.

BTW - Please remember to let us know what the problem turns out to be, 
so that the entire list may learn from your situation.  Thanks.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1 - Plain ol' stainless steel again - Stars and Stripes are 
gone.

> 
> My problem occurs only at very low speed or in a standstill downhill 
while turning the steering wheel, for instance standing still in a 
downhill/driving slowly and at the same time making a left or right 
turn. The front will then sort of "slide" on the front wheels - as if 
it gives way - and the steering wheel will go all the way to one of 
the sides.
> Strange thing is, after I make the turn and speeding up, everything 
is back to normal.






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:22:51 EDT
From: DHughes030_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door lock module question

Yep, diode.   Don



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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:34:26 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Firing order

In a message dated 4/8/02 6:01:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com writes:

<< As I don't have my manuals to hand (moved house, in a box somewhere). Can
 some one please remind me of the following:-
 
 <<Firing order
 <<Rotation direction of the rotor arm
 <<how are the cylinders numbered for the firing order. >>

Crank and rotor both rotate clockwise.
Firing order is stamped right on the distributor cap. 163524
Cylinders are numbered right on the valve covers. 1,2,3 rh side front of car 
to back, 4,5,6 lh side front to back. 4 is right by the distributor.....
Jim



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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:30:02 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust

Rendy, If the 02 sensor is approaching 30,000 miles, it's due to be replaced. 
Also, if you car has been running rich. The the fuel system may lean out 
after replacing it 02. Also, after replacing the o2 sensor, the Air flow 
meter may have to be adjusted to get the correct reading. I adjust by ear and 
am usually right on the money, but trying to find someone with the right 
equiptment might be a challenge. I also have Cat's in stock at a savings.You 
can see on the web site.
And , no they don't last forever.  
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml



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