From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 981
Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 8:53 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Door lock module. more...
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

2. Re: Installing auto tranny comp
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Sticking Accelerator
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Frozen Throtle Cable???
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Need Some Club Advice
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7_at_dml_carolina.rr.com>

6. Re: Door lock module question
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

7. Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust
From: "rendy_cheng" <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>

8. Re: Firing order
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

9. Re: RE: Re: Memphis Delorean Show
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: WHAT IF.... Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

11. transaxle question
From: "sml5150" <sk1pper_at_dml_sk1pper.com>

12. Re: Door lock module question
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: Door lock module. more...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Removing Door Vents
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

15. Re: Installing auto tranny comp
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Sticking Accelerator
From: "dlrnjim" <dlrnjim_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 04:13:17 -0700
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door lock module. more...

Thanks everyone, but what I really want to know is what part number, or type 
of diode this is so that I can replace it. Is this a standard .3V-.7V diode, 
or something special? Can I replace it with a common diode such as a 1N4001?

Also, I didnt fully understand the pics you had on your site. Are the 
"version 3" pics an altered/improved version, or are they another type of 
stock? Also the same diode that is melted and yellow on my board is the same 
on your "version 1" board.

thanks, Adam


>From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Door lock module question
>Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:57:09 EDT
>
>Adam, If you will look at my web site. I have taken some close up's of the 
>PC
>boards. The link is below. Also, the relay's contacts are most likly burned
>up. The relay's are hidden, and no one ever thinks to replace them. They to
>are on the site. Maybe the pictures will help you Identify the parts. If 
>not,
>let me know.
>John
>http://www.specialtauto.com/talk-view.shtml
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 04:37:07 -0700
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Installing auto tranny comp



I plan to install my auto tranny computer this weekend. I crawled under the 
car today to get a look around, and I cant see where some of the cables 
connect.. my question is: are any of these cable connected to the top of the 
transmission, or anyother area that is blocked by the car? I really dont 
want to have to remove my transmission for this seemingly simple install.. 
Just what is involved with installing one of these anyway? What kind of 
things should I look for when removing or installing one?

Does the spindle gear have to be rotated to a specific position when 
installing?

Also, I noticed that one of the previous owners has attached a heat sink 
(looks like a CPU heat sink) to the metal cover of the module.. seems like a 
good idea to me! I wonder if he applied heat transferring silicon gel to the 
backs of the transistors inside.... has anyone else done this? Do you think 
it would make a noticable difference? I think I will do it to the new one as 
well.

Adam

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 14:00:16 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sticking Accelerator

A "sticky" accelerater pedal can be a VERY DANGEROUS THING! Do not 
drive the car until you have fixed it. There was a throttle recall. 
See if there is a black metal plate over the throttle spool. If not 
get the recall kit. If it's there lubricate the throttle cable and 
throttle spool and anywhere else that is sticking. It is possible that 
the throttle cable is going bad inside and unraveling in that case it 
will have to be replaced but that is a remote possibility.
David Teitelbau
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "dlrnjim" <dlrnjim_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I have a problem from time to time with my accelerator sticking, and 
> have to reach down and pull it up to unstick it. Has anyone else had 
> that problem, and if so what would you suggest I do to correct it?
> 
> Thanks




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 08:19:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frozen Throtle Cable???

hey tony,

i had the same problem with my d.  i was trying to
impress my girlfriends brother by hooking him up with
a ride and it froze a half a block down the road.  the
throtle moved freely in the engine, but the gas pedal
wouldn't budge.  we wound up taking the throtle cable
out of its casing and lubed it up with spray
lubricants.  the car's run fine ever since.  it's a
one day process, but it worked for me in Wisconsin
weather.

-Sean Mulligan
VIN #10054

--- dmc_delorean_2000 <dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
wrote:
> hi
> Although its april the weather in NY keeps getting
> cold. If I dont 
> use my car for a day or to and its freezing temp
> outside, my gas 
> pedal wont budge. in the engine compartment the
> throtle moves freely 
> but the pedal wont move. even if i let it warm up
> with the heat on 
> the gas pedal just wont move. i can rev the engine
> from the throttle, 
> but thats it. anybody have any suggestions to fix
> this dangerous 
> problem?
> Thanks
> Tony Izzo III
> VIN# 2467
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:00:49 -0400
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7_at_dml_carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Need Some Club Advice

Another comment about the ETDOC. I attended my first event in March (Tail of
the Dragon). Aaron, Sean and the others were great about introducing me to
some of the other members. I felt right at home even though I was much older
than the rest of the group. So reach out and make newcomers feel welcome and
above all, have fun!

Bob Thomason




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:43:05 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Door lock module question

Adam,

Before you spend too much effort on repairing the door lock module you might
want to check out my article at www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/doorlock.html

Regards,

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv


----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 2:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Door lock module question


>
>
> I have removed my door lock module to see why my doors are acting crazy.
> Sure enough there is an obviously melted component on the board. I cannot
> tell what this is, but I think it is a diode. It is yellow in color, but i
> think this color is from the underskin, and not normally viewable. It is
the
> same size as the two odd shaped diodes next to it. I have taken a picture
> and included the URL to it. It is the yellow thing on the left side of the
> large black wire.
>
> http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_1154320/doormodule.jpg?bc5Bzs8AwK5AgMok
>
> I have looked at all the info on the News tech pages, but I am still
unable
> to tell what component this is. There are two other diodes on the right
side
> of this component and they are labeled with a large "R" and a smaller
"D6".
> Thanks for taking the time to help me out.
>
> Adam





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 17:39:14 -0000
From: "rendy_cheng" <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: high hydrocarbon in exhaust

[This is from original poster]
Thanks everyone who answer my question.
I would like to answer some questions directed to me.
I am the third owner of this car and I have it for about 6 years now.  My D pass 
the smog check in previous 2 times.  My car was not driven very much in pass 
5 years (50 miles per year).  I have not replace O2, spark plugs, spark plug wire, 
dist. rotor and cap yet since it is in storage most of time.  Now I drive the car 
everyday to work. I think it is about time to do the tune up.  I will replace all 
the usual thing and let you guys know the results.

thanks everyone again....

rendy




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:00:02 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Firing order

Paul,

The information you are looking for is located at the DeLorean Services
website http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore . Click on
Electrical in the Technical Information section. The spark plug wiring
diagram is located at the ignition system link.

Regards,

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: [DML] Firing order


> As I don't have my manuals to hand (moved house, in a box somewhere). Can
> some one please remind me of the following:-
>
> Firing order
> Rotation direction of the rotor arm
> how are the cylinders numbered for the firing order.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
> #6463
>
> www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 09:39:26 -0400
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Re: Memphis Delorean Show

I have to say that post advertising the show was great. Not sure what I must have said Friday. 
Whatever the suprise is with Viagra I don't want to miss either.

Ken



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:31:18 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: WHAT IF.... Re: HOT START HELL -- Nothing Works!

In a message dated 4/8/02 10:45:22 PM Central Daylight Time, dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:


> Jason, My car has sat for sometimes a month and still start right up. Does 
> anyone know how long the pressure can stay on the syste. I don't. Call if 
> you 
> need any help with the adjustment.
> 

John,

when my car was having running problems last year (which i have since 
completely rectified, thank god), i found that the system held measurable 
pressure on the order of a few hours.  in the shop manual section D:02:01 you 
can see that the system must hold 3.3 bar immediately after engine shut down 
once the pump stops.  this is assuming that you had adequate running fuel 
pressure.  after 10 minutes, the system should be holding at least 1.7 bar.  
i am postive that if you drove your car home one evening, there would be very 
little if any pressure the next morning.

the cold start valve, as someone else stated, is supposed to enrichen the 
mixture when the engine is cold.  this makes sense because by the time the 
engine is cold, there is no more fuel pressure in the lines.  and if there 
is, it is a negligable amount because obviously it doesn't make starting 
difficult with pressure AND a cold start burst.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 22:00:59 -0000
From: "sml5150" <sk1pper_at_dml_sk1pper.com>
Subject: transaxle question

i had a nice little accident where some fool ran me off the road onto 
teh median and now i have major bottom damage. ive decided to upgrade 
wile i fix. ive got teh engine mods figured out, but the trans is a 
different story. im getting a racing engine that is supercharged at 
400+ hp at teh flywheel. i know out r-5 trans is good to 300 hp, but 
is there a rebuild kit to make it better or should i just find a 
911se trans and use that?

thanks yall for your help. . .OH you can e-mail me if you want 
skipper_at_dml_sk1pper.com

skipper landry
www.sk1pper.com





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 01:44:31 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Door lock module question

A blown diode is likely to take other components with it as these diodes are to protect
the transistors on the board. I've now reconditioned four modules, and all are the second
generation board where the relays and capacitors are the other way around, and all had a
blown power supply protection diode.

Here's a photo of the work I did to my own board

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02364.JPG

I have designed a replacement circuit but haven't built it yet.

Martin
#1458

Adam Price wrote:

> I have removed my door lock module to see why my doors are acting crazy.
> Sure enough there is an obviously melted component on the board.

<snip>




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 01:47:17 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Door lock module. more...

Adam the reason the oem diodes blow is they are underrated for the job (surprise
surprise). You need to buy some high speed high current (>20A) diodes to replace them,
and also add in a few protection diodes to the underside of the board.

There are several different versions of the board - I have never seen the one you have
and I've seen three different versions in addition to yours!

Martin
#1458

Adam Price wrote:

> Thanks everyone, but what I really want to know is what part number, or type
> of diode this is so that I can replace it. Is this a standard .3V-.7V diode,
> or something special? Can I replace it with a common diode such as a 1N4001?
>
> Also, I didnt fully understand the pics you had on your site. Are the
> "version 3" pics an altered/improved version, or are they another type of
> stock? Also the same diode that is melted and yellow on my board is the same
> on your "version 1" board.
>
> thanks, Adam




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 20:52:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Removing Door Vents

I've got the vent and the bracket out of the lower door panel, but I can't
figure out how to get the plastic vent out of the metal bracket without
drilling out the rivets. Is this the only way to go?

-Christian




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 03:58:34 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Installing auto tranny comp

It is possible to change the shift computer without dropping the pan 
and fluid but I think as long as you are doing this kind of service it 
is a good idea to look inside and see what is going on. You will need 
a pan gasket. There should be NO metal in the pan and depending on the 
mileage some friction materiel. You can then disconnect the solenoids 
and change the "O" ring. Make sure you check the magnet in the pan and 
clean everything. There is no problem in replacing the shift computer 
itself just make sure to route the wiring away from the exhaust pipes. 
You will have to do the cable adjustment to the shift computer and it 
is a good idea to check the line pressure. Also check the gearshift 
adjustment and inspect thourghly for any leaks. Make sure the 
modulater on the front of the trans is hooked up to vacuum and there 
are no leaks. Check the level in the final drive too, it is different 
from the trans and it takes gear oil not auto trans fluid. The wiring 
goes up to the left side firewall in front of the motor to a large 
plug. The fins on the metal cover are a good idea just make sure WATER 
can't get in, seal it up with silicone sealer. Be careful inside, the 
metal spring is meant to keep the output transistors in contact with 
the cover, use heat sink compound liberaly inside and on the fins.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I plan to install my auto tranny computer this weekend. I crawled 
under the 
> car today to get a look around, and I cant see where some of the 
cables 
> connect.. my question is: are any of these cable connected to the 
top of the 
> transmission, or anyother area that is blocked by the car? I really 
dont 
> want to have to remove my transmission for this seemingly simple 
install.. 
> Just what is involved with installing one of these anyway? What kind 
of 
> things should I look for when removing or installing one?
> 
> Does the spindle gear have to be rotated to a specific position when 
> installing?
> 
> Also, I noticed that one of the previous owners has attached a heat 
sink 
> (looks like a CPU heat sink) to the metal cover of the module.. 
seems like a 
> good idea to me! I wonder if he applied heat transferring silicon 
gel to the 
> backs of the transistors inside.... has anyone else done this? Do 
you think 
> it would make a noticable difference? I think I will do it to the 
new one as 
> well.
> 
> Adam
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: 
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:03:15 -0000
From: "dlrnjim" <dlrnjim_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sticking Accelerator

Thanks,

I haven't driven the car since it started sticking.

My car doesn't have the recall done to it; where can I find the 
recall parts ? Also, how do you lubricate the cable ?

My car has low miles on it, and I'm assuming the cable's OK.

Thanks,

Jim




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