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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 989
Date: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 7:31 AM

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There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...
From: "cdrugly" <>

2. Workshop Manual
From: "cpgny9" <>

3. EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
From: "jwit6dmc12" <>

4. steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
From: "cpgny9" <>

5. intermittent signal indicators

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 01:26:12 -0000
From: "cdrugly" <>
Subject: Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...


Thanks for the heads up. It has helped me diagnose the problem. See 
what you think:

I took the solenoid off and repaired the broken electrical connection 
and still got the same results. As long as I don't really hammer down 
on the accleration, the car will accelerate fine. At around 65, it's 
like a swift kick in the ass as the car takes off.

With the solenoid repaired, I checked the timing again. I found that 
it was advanced almost 25 degrees. How it was even starting, I have 
no idea. So, I checked the vacuum coming from the solenoid, and it 
did exist, even at idle. According to D:08:01, the microswitch should 
energize the solenoid and close off the vacuum when the throttle 
plate is closed. 

When I disconnected the line to the distributor vacuum advance, the 
timing returned to 13 degrees.

Hmmm. So, it looks like the thermal vacuum control valve is open 
correctly (the only reason it would close would be for emissions, I 
assume) and is sending vacuum to the solenoid. With the solenoid 
stuck open, there is a vacuum during idle causing the 10 degree over-
advance. I'm thinking the solenoid is hosed.

So, did I do good?

--- As a side note, I noticed the when the vacuum is disconnected and 
tested the timing, pulling on the throttle advanced the timing. 
Question is, does the D utilize mechanical (centrifugal) advance as 
well as vacuum advance?

Thanks for the advice,



Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:32:32 -0000
From: "cpgny9" <>
Subject: Workshop Manual

I'm a new Delorean owner of about three weeks. I have read through 
houndreds of your postings and they have been really helpful. I was 
wondering if anyone had any comments on the different workshop 
manuals.  When I bought the Delorean, the seller game me his workshop 
manual.  It is the Delorean One version. I have had several other 
cars and I buy the workshop manual everytime. Unfourtunately, this 
manual isn't that great. Does anyone know if the manual that PJ 
Gradys sells is any better or about the same. Looking at the picture 
on line, it looks very different. I'm going to be in Long Island in a 
couple of weekends and was thinking about stopping by and picking it 
up if it is any better.



Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:32:10 -0000
From: "jwit6dmc12" <>
Subject: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project

Hello all,
I wanted to share with you what I've managed to accomplish over the 
winter. When my clutch slave cylinder failed I removed the intake 
manifold to replace it, and before I knew it I decided to fabricate a 
new intake for use with my EFI setup. I also replaced the alternator, 
rewired the engine compartment and replaced the exhaust system with a 
polished stainless steel Supertrap.

There's a picture on the second page of the photos section called EFI 

After I had the original intake off I realized that with a 90 degree 
v 6, everything is perfectly square. No fancy angles. And with the o-
ring seals on the heads it seemed like a reasonable project to 
undertake. Anyway if it failed I could just go back to the stock 
intake. But it's such an ugly thing that I really didn't want to give 

Anyway, the intake is all aluminum, mostly flat 1/4 inch shaped in a 
90 degree V with 6 independent aluminum intake runners whose inside 
diameters match the intake ports.  

All the CIS wiring, sensors and switches are gone, and it really 
cleaned up the engine compartment. While I was at it I also moved my 
previously installed EFI ECU trigger from the coil to a Hall effect 
sensor on the crank pully. Also installed a new Accell Super Stock 
ignition coil.

The intake uses twin throttle bodies from 1990 Ford Tempos. Both 
courtesy of the bone yard. Very economical. Idle air valve is 
courtesy of a Porsche 914. Injectors are Accell 24 lb high impedence. 
Fuel rails are extruded aluminum. All custom. This would not be 
possible if I didn't have my own metal working lathe. Although 
extruded rails are available from Accell and all you have to do is 
have you local machine shop machine the injector seats for you (4 1/4 
inch centers....)

Air filter assy is a K&N in an Edlebrock dual quad oval with custom 
machined fillers to fit the smaller Ford throttle bodies. TPS is a 3 
wire Ford and is a direct bolt on. Engine temp and air temp are from 
Simple Digital Systems (along with the ECU) and the MAP sensor is 
standard GM 1 bar. (Although you could use the stock Bosch water temp 
if you wanted)

With the new intake and the Supertrap I had to bump up the mixture 
values from what I used with the stock intake and exhaust about 10%, 
so I suspect the engine is breathing a little better. It sounds quite 
a bit different. Noticable intake roar under full throttle 
acceleration. Still using the stock cat. 

Fuel delivery to the filter and then to the fuel rails is all stock 
except that I removed the fuel accumulator since it was dirty anyway. 
Fuel pressure regulator is a stock Nissan 240 ZX and runs at 43 

Hope to have it on a Dyno soon to finalize the mixtures and see what 
kind of power it makes. 

Hope you enjoy the info....

Vin 6147


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:44:47 -0000
From: "cpgny9" <>
Subject: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem

Since I purchased my D., the steering wheel bounces and clangs at 
high speeds and when I am applying the brake and slowing down. I know 
that it needs an allignment cause it pulls to the right, but I think 
something else may be going on.  After reading some past postings, I 
have a feeling that the bushing needs to be replaced, but would that 
cause the bouncing when braking?  I know that the brakes were 
replaced not too long before I purchased the car, so I think that 
they are OK.  Any suggestions or ideas?  Also, my speedometer and 
odometer are inactive.  I'm sure that it is either the angle drive or 
speedo cable. I have access to a lift at my friends car dealership, 
so I'm going to put it up and take off the front left wheel.  The 
only thing is, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for to 
determine my problem. Does anyone know what I should focus on and the 
way that I determine if it is operating correctly or not. 

Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated from this new 
Delorean owner.


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:40:33 EDT
Subject: intermittent signal indicators

hey list,

i have an extremely annoying problem.  lately my instrument cluster turn 
signal indicators have been on the fritz.  seems like every now and then, one 
of the lights will stop working.  all of my exterior lights work but for some 
reason the indicators will not flash.  i have pulled the binnacle off about 
three times now to check into the problem and it seems like if i take out the 
bulb holder and then put it back in the light will work again.  the bulb 
holders are in excellent condition and the bulbs have been replaced.  i have 
a new PCB board as of last year and all of my connections seem tight.  i even 
tried bending the tabs on the holders so they would fit tighter but it 
doesn't seem to do any good.  does anyone have any idea on what the problem 
is and what i can do to fix it?  sometimes if i just ignore the light it will 
come on again in a few hours or couple days.  

this problem is super-annoying and i'm getting tired of taking my binnacle 

please help!
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102

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