From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 990
Date: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 9:30 AM

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There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. WTB: Black Seat Covers.
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

2. Re: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

3. Re: Workshop Manual
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

4. Re: intermittent signal indicators
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. RE: steering wheel bounce/determining speedometer problem
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

6. Limited Edition Kits
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

7. refinished wheels?
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

9. RE: Re: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer proble m
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

10. Re: intermittent signal indicators
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

11. RE: intermittent signal indicators
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>

12. Hummer light wiring tips?
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Vacuum Solenoid Test
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

14. Re: intermittent signal indicators
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Pressure Bleeder
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Workshop Manual
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: seat backs
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: auto transmission pan gasket
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

19. Re: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 10:55:39 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: WTB: Black Seat Covers.

Anyone had a set of decent black seat covers for sale?

On my list of things to make 01860 not a complete embarrassment at Memphis are recovered dash and binnacle, repainted fascias, and seat covers..  I've got leads on everything except reasonably prices seat covers..  Worst case, I guess the Wal-Mart sheepskin's will cover up the sun damage!  (Shh, don't tell anyone!)




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:00:48 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project

Sounds like great work Jim.  Later 2.8s went with a big intake manifold. 
eg. Puegot 504e.  It made 185 HP.  Should be interesting to see what you 
get.

You should install one of those catalytic converter test pipes.  Its 
worth about 5-10 HP based upon the ratings of the euro version.

BOB

jwit6dmc12 wrote:

>Hello all,
>I wanted to share with you what I've managed to accomplish over the 
>winter. When my clutch slave cylinder failed I removed the intake 
>manifold to replace it, and before I knew it I decided to fabricate a 
>new intake for use with my EFI setup. I also replaced the alternator, 
>rewired the engine compartment and replaced the exhaust system with a 
>polished stainless steel Supertrap.
>
>There's a picture on the second page of the photos section called EFI 
>Intake. 
>
>After I had the original intake off I realized that with a 90 degree 
>v 6, everything is perfectly square. No fancy angles. And with the o-
>ring seals on the heads it seemed like a reasonable project to 
>undertake. Anyway if it failed I could just go back to the stock 
>intake. But it's such an ugly thing that I really didn't want to give 
>up. 
>
>Anyway, the intake is all aluminum, mostly flat 1/4 inch shaped in a 
>90 degree V with 6 independent aluminum intake runners whose inside 
>diameters match the intake ports.  
>
>All the CIS wiring, sensors and switches are gone, and it really 
>cleaned up the engine compartment. While I was at it I also moved my 
>previously installed EFI ECU trigger from the coil to a Hall effect 
>sensor on the crank pully. Also installed a new Accell Super Stock 
>ignition coil.
>
>The intake uses twin throttle bodies from 1990 Ford Tempos. Both 
>courtesy of the bone yard. Very economical. Idle air valve is 
>courtesy of a Porsche 914. Injectors are Accell 24 lb high impedence. 
>Fuel rails are extruded aluminum. All custom. This would not be 
>possible if I didn't have my own metal working lathe. Although 
>extruded rails are available from Accell and all you have to do is 
>have you local machine shop machine the injector seats for you (4 1/4 
>inch centers....)
>
>Air filter assy is a K&N in an Edlebrock dual quad oval with custom 
>machined fillers to fit the smaller Ford throttle bodies. TPS is a 3 
>wire Ford and is a direct bolt on. Engine temp and air temp are from 
>Simple Digital Systems (along with the ECU) and the MAP sensor is 
>standard GM 1 bar. (Although you could use the stock Bosch water temp 
>if you wanted)
>
>With the new intake and the Supertrap I had to bump up the mixture 
>values from what I used with the stock intake and exhaust about 10%, 
>so I suspect the engine is breathing a little better. It sounds quite 
>a bit different. Noticable intake roar under full throttle 
>acceleration. Still using the stock cat. 
>
>Fuel delivery to the filter and then to the fuel rails is all stock 
>except that I removed the fuel accumulator since it was dirty anyway. 
>Fuel pressure regulator is a stock Nissan 240 ZX and runs at 43 
>pounds.
>
>Hope to have it on a Dyno soon to finalize the mixtures and see what 
>kind of power it makes. 
>
>Hope you enjoy the info....
>
>Jim 
>Vin 6147
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:49:10 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Workshop Manual

If the manual you received with the car has section/subsection numbers at
the top of each page it is a copy of the workshop manual. If the book
contains page numbers in the lower corners your book is a copy of the
Technical Information Manual.

The Workshop Manual is much more useful for service procedures and would be
a wise purchase.

You said:
        "I'm going to be in Long Island in a couple of weekends and was
thinking about stopping by and picking it up if it is any better."

As a new owner you should defiantly visit Rob Grady when you are in the
area. If he isn't very busy he will be more than happy to assist you.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv



----- Original Message -----
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 8:32 PM
Subject: [DML] Workshop Manual


> I'm a new Delorean owner of about three weeks. I have read through
> houndreds of your postings and they have been really helpful. I was
> wondering if anyone had any comments on the different workshop
> manuals.  When I bought the Delorean, the seller game me his workshop
> manual.  It is the Delorean One version. I have had several other
> cars and I buy the workshop manual everytime. Unfourtunately, this
> manual isn't that great. Does anyone know if the manual that PJ
> Gradys sells is any better or about the same. Looking at the picture
> on line, it looks very different. I'm going to be in Long Island in a
> couple of weekends and was thinking about stopping by and picking it
> up if it is any better.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 11:19:58 -0700
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: intermittent signal indicators


I started having this problem last week! But mine was worse because the left 
front signal light would also not work and the rear light would flash fast 
as if the front one had burnt out. The left turn signal light connector 
block (behind headlights) was loose on my car, I just electrical taped it 
into a tight position, and now my turn signal light works fine. But the 
binnacle indicator for the left turn signal still stops working now and 
then...

Adam
>From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] intermittent signal indicators
>Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:40:33 EDT
>
>hey list,
>
>i have an extremely annoying problem.  lately my instrument cluster turn
>signal indicators have been on the fritz.  seems like every now and then, 
>one
>of the lights will stop working.  all of my exterior lights work but for 
>some
>reason the indicators will not flash.  i have pulled the binnacle off about
>three times now to check into the problem and it seems like if i take out 
>the
>bulb holder and then put it back in the light will work again.  the bulb
>holders are in excellent condition and the bulbs have been replaced.  i 
>have
>a new PCB board as of last year and all of my connections seem tight.  i 
>even
>tried bending the tabs on the holders so they would fit tighter but it
>doesn't seem to do any good.  does anyone have any idea on what the problem
>is and what i can do to fix it?  sometimes if i just ignore the light it 
>will
>come on again in a few hours or couple days.
>
>this problem is super-annoying and i'm getting tired of taking my binnacle
>off!!!
>
>please help!
>Andy
>
>Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
>1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
>Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 06:18:31 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: steering wheel bounce/determining speedometer problem

Most of us have been here in some form or another!
Disconnect the Speedo cable where it comes through the footwell (driver's
side) and connects to the white box (lambda counter). Now drive around the
block and see if the cable spins.
Tug on the inner cable, and see if it comes loose.

When it's up on the lift check the white dust-cap. Make sure the square
cable that comes through from the angle drive is connecting solidly with the
cap. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and disconnect the speedo cable
from the angle drive. Turn the front wheel and see if the inside of the
angle drive moves.

-----Original Message-----
From: cpgny9 [mailto:cpgny9_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem


Since I purchased my D., the steering wheel bounces and clangs at
high speeds and when I am applying the brake and slowing down. I know
that it needs an allignment cause it pulls to the right, but I think
something else may be going on.  After reading some past postings, I
have a feeling that the bushing needs to be replaced, but would that
cause the bouncing when braking?  I know that the brakes were
replaced not too long before I purchased the car, so I think that
they are OK.  Any suggestions or ideas?  Also, my speedometer and
odometer are inactive.  I'm sure that it is either the angle drive or
speedo cable. I have access to a lift at my friends car dealership,
so I'm going to put it up and take off the front left wheel.  The
only thing is, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for to
determine my problem. Does anyone know what I should focus on and the
way that I determine if it is operating correctly or not.

Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated from this new
Delorean owner.



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 15:00:21 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Limited Edition Kits

Last week I posted a question to the group, asking "who besides myself has
not received there Limited Edition Kit from Lee Seilers"?

I have received 25 replies from people who ordered and paid for the kits,
but have yet to receive them.

Some of the replies were critical of Ken Montgomery.

For the record, Ken Montgomery is in no way responsible for Lee Seilers
performance, or lack thereof, in producing and delivering the prepaid
Limited Edition Kits in a timely manner.

I have had the pleasure of knowing Ken Montgomery and his wife since 1998.
Ken has done a great job compiling and producing the Member Directory on the
DMCNEWS web site.  Also, Ken has been organized the Northern California
DeLorean Owners club and the DeLorean/Bricklin show last year.

So, if you have the pleasure of meeting Ken at one of the National events,
please do not bug him about the Limited Edition kits.

If there are others who have bought kits but have not received them, drop me
a note and I will add you to the list.

I have no influence or power to speed the delivery, but I do intend to let
Lee know that there are 25 guys who would love to meet him.


Please respond to this off list so we do not clutter the mailing list.


Scott Mueller
002981
scott.a.mueller (at) att.net




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 03:52:32 -0000
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: refinished wheels?

Has anybody ever refinished there wheels.I am looking to refinish my 
wheels which are pitted and flaking,I hear there are a couple of 
different methods? Does anybody have any idea's I would appreciate it
very much. thank you




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 23:38:52 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...

Andy and Group, Just to let you know, There are two types of Platinum plugs. 
The standard plug, copper and the platinum plug like the copper with the 
single bent over post for the fire.  Then there is the Platinum + 4. These 
are the least line of resistance in a plug. I have run them for over 5000 
miles with no problems, you can see what Bosch say's about them along with 
other manufactures in trade magazines and on the web site. I believe what Rob 
was talking about was the standard tip platinum, which I don't sell or use 
not the + 4. There is a difference and the + 4 does makes a difference in the 
idling and firing. Just a note. 
Yes andy, Tune up's do go right. If you ask 10 people their opinion you will 
normally get 8 different opinions. 
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/  



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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 08:37:06 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Re: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer proble m

You are probably correct. I'm betting your bouncing steering wheel is due to
a missing steering column bushing. I had the same problem myself and
replacing it fixed the errant wheel. It's a rubber ring that holds the
column in place as it passes through the firewall. Get underneath the column
with a flashlight and see if it is there.

> Message: 4
>    Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:44:47 -0000
>    From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9_at_dml_yahoo.com>
> Subject: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
> 
> Since I purchased my D., the steering wheel bounces and clangs at 
> high speeds and when I am applying the brake and slowing down. I know 
> that it needs an allignment cause it pulls to the right, but I think 
> something else may be going on.  After reading some past postings, I 
> have a feeling that the bushing needs to be replaced, but would that 
> cause the bouncing when braking?  I know that the brakes were 
> replaced not too long before I purchased the car, so I think that 
> they are OK.  Any suggestions or ideas?  Also, my speedometer and 
> odometer are inactive.  I'm sure that it is either the angle drive or 
> speedo cable. I have access to a lift at my friends car dealership, 
> so I'm going to put it up and take off the front left wheel.  The 
> only thing is, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for to 
> determine my problem. Does anyone know what I should focus on and the 
> way that I determine if it is operating correctly or not. 
>
> 



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 23:26:04 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: intermittent signal indicators

Andy, Just a long shot, but the problem may be not be in the Binnacle area, 
but a wire broken inside the insulation somewhere else.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/.



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 07:46:27 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: RE: intermittent signal indicators

Andy,
Make sure that the multi-pin connectors are clean and that the pins are
making good contact.
Scott Mueller
002981

-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 6:41 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] intermittent signal indicators


hey list,

i have an extremely annoying problem.  lately my instrument cluster turn
signal indicators have been on the fritz.  seems like every now and then,
one
of the lights will stop working.  all of my exterior lights work but for
some
reason the indicators will not flash.  i have pulled the binnacle off about
three times now to check into the problem and it seems like if i take out
the
bulb holder and then put it back in the light will work again.  the bulb
holders are in excellent condition and the bulbs have been replaced.  i have
a new PCB board as of last year and all of my connections seem tight.  i
even
tried bending the tabs on the holders so they would fit tighter but it
doesn't seem to do any good.  does anyone have any idea on what the problem
is and what i can do to fix it?  sometimes if i just ignore the light it
will
come on again in a few hours or couple days.

this problem is super-annoying and i'm getting tired of taking my binnacle
off!!!

please help!
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:20:32 -0000
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Hummer light wiring tips?

BOught an interior light from Hummer.  The wiring is different.  It 
does not appear that the use of this fixture will preserve the 
options of ON/OFF/DOOR

Can anyone identify the proper wiring from the original to this new 
interior light fixture?

ORIGINAL
Purple        Bulb End
Purple/white  Switched end
Black         Other Switched end

versus Hummer

narrow spade at switched end
Spade with Diode (center spade)
Spade at bulb end




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 12:23:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Vacuum Solenoid Test

Travis,

Here is an easy test to determine if the solenoid valve is functionally
properly. Place a vacuum gauge on the output line of the solenoid valve,
there should be no vacuum during normal and high idle. After engine warm up
there should be no vacuum at idle and vacuum at high idle. Be sure that you
have the correct vacuum hose spigot. The center spigot is vacuum input and
the outside spigot is output to the distributor.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...


> Joe,
>
> Thanks for the heads up. It has helped me diagnose the problem. See
> what you think:
>
> I took the solenoid off and repaired the broken electrical connection
> and still got the same results. As long as I don't really hammer down
> on the accleration, the car will accelerate fine. At around 65, it's
> like a swift kick in the ass as the car takes off.
>
> With the solenoid repaired, I checked the timing again. I found that
> it was advanced almost 25 degrees. How it was even starting, I have
> no idea. So, I checked the vacuum coming from the solenoid, and it
> did exist, even at idle. According to D:08:01, the microswitch should
> energize the solenoid and close off the vacuum when the throttle
> plate is closed.
>
> When I disconnected the line to the distributor vacuum advance, the
> timing returned to 13 degrees.
>
> Hmmm. So, it looks like the thermal vacuum control valve is open
> correctly (the only reason it would close would be for emissions, I
> assume) and is sending vacuum to the solenoid. With the solenoid
> stuck open, there is a vacuum during idle causing the 10 degree over-
> advance. I'm thinking the solenoid is hosed.
>
> So, did I do good?
>
> --- As a side note, I noticed the when the vacuum is disconnected and
> tested the timing, pulling on the throttle advanced the timing.
> Question is, does the D utilize mechanical (centrifugal) advance as
> well as vacuum advance?
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> Travis
> 3512






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 23:11:38 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: intermittent signal indicators

HI Andy,
     I had the same problem you are describing.  It turns out that it was 
actually the little relay under the knee pad that clicks.  Someday it would 
be fine, other days it would just keep the bulb illuminated but it wouldn't 
blink.  I went to a VW shop and they gave me a new one for free.  You may 
want to check that out.

David
6286



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:18:20 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Pressure Bleeder

The biggest problem with your method is you can too easily empty the 
master cylinder and to refill you must constantly relieve the 
pressure and refill. At least on cars with plastic resovoirs you can 
see the level so if you watch it you can catch it before you empty the 
master cylinder. BTW NEVER reuse brake fluid you remove from the 
system when bleeding. Dispose of properly or use as paint remover! Ha 
Ha.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I made a poor mans pressure bleeder.
> I bought a new master cylinder cap and put a tire valve stem through 
it.
> Fill the master cylinder and then attach a tire chuck to the valve 
stem.  I
> set my air compressor regulator to a couple of PSI.  Watch the fluid 
level
> in the master cylinder and make sure that the regulator is doing its 
job.  I
> have used this technique with my DMC, Truck and other cars.
> 
> Scott Mueller
> 002981




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:28:42 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Workshop Manual

In a message dated 4/15/02 10:52:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cpgny9_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

> the seller game me his workshop manual.  It is the Delorean One version. I 
> have had several other cars and I buy the workshop manual everytime. 
> Unfourtunately, this manual isn't that great. Does anyone know if the 
> 

It's worth dropping by P.J. Grady  whether you get a manual or not, but to my 
knowledge, the only differences would be negligible.  (Rob, James correct me 
if I'm wrong in this following bit...)
Wherever you get them, the workshop manual repros are unedited copies of the 
original workshop manual put out by dmc.  When the car was first introduced, 
mechanics were trained, service bulletins were issued as needed, and area 
service managers answered questions as needed.  There was no manual.  When 
the manual finally came out months later, it was somewhat sketchy, and was 
never intended to be the final authority for the next twenty years.  It also 
presumes a certain amount of training on the part of the reader.  Plus, some 
errors are there as well as the fact that some things are done better and 
easier than recommended, with the benefit of hindsight.  With the financial 
distress of the company coming on strong at that time, there were no later 
editions.  There is no "Chilton Manual" intended for backyard mechanics since 
it was a low volume car.  The now-defunct DeLorean Motor Club of America did 
issue a different, expanded (and out of print) workshop manual they titled  
"Technical Owners Guide."  They turn up on e-bray a few times a year.  This 
is not the same thing as the "Technical INFORMATION Manual" repro which can 
still be bought from ther major D vendors. All the major vendors also offer 
Service Bulletin repros.  Those DO vary slighly but only by what's included.  
They still aren't edited.  All the workshop manual and bulletin repros look 
pretty crummy that I've seen, except for the ROA version, which is also out 
of print.  I've only seen one, and I've got it for the new manuals project!  
:) 
I've been working intermittantly on revised versions, but it's extremely time 
consuming and I can only give it small chunks of time here and there.  The 
four available repro manuals: (workshop, technical info, parts, owners 
manual) are all worth having.  The parts manual is available online from DMC 
Houston. Your best ally is your DeLorean service center.  Pick your vendor 
and stick with him.  He'll guide you.  You need parts from him anyway. That 
would be true even if somebody had already done an updated manual.  Sounds 
like you're near Rob Grady.  He'll give you all the help you need.

Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174


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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 23:11:48 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: seat backs

It seems everytime you think you have a unique problem, everyone has it. My 
passenger seat back is tight and I can't even budge it. The drivers side I 
will wrestle it in place, re-screw it until it seems tight and the instant i 
lean back it come off *&^%$# . I have seen one other car with this 
problem...Anyone else with a fix idea besides wrapping duct tape around the 
whole seat?

The backing seems pretty flimsy and i know mine is bent.

Mike C, Baltimore
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 23:12:41 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: auto transmission pan gasket

To the best of my knowledge there is no crossover for the pan gasket. Why
are you are looking for a crossover; the factory spec gasket (part #103516)
is priced at $11.19 and is available from us and the other DeLorean vendors.
The transmission designation is R-30.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 1:55 PM
Subject: [DML] auto transmission pan gasket


>
> Does anyone have a cross reference for the auto trany pan gasket? Someone
> has to make it.. does Purolator make one?
>
> Also someone posted a while back what the correct designation numbers for
> the auto tranny is. All I know is that its made by Renault Fuego.
>
> Thanks, Adam
>





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 21:18:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem


The best thing to do when trying to diagnose a speedo problem is start on one side of it (usually the upper cable) and work your way down.  Pull the upper cable out of the lambda counter and turn the metal rod by hand. If your speed moves, it's good.   Then go down to the angle drive and take the lower cable off.  Then turn the metal rod by hand on that one. It will be harder to turn, but if it moves the speedo, it's good.  Look inside the angle drive where you just removed the cable, then turn the wheel.  If you see the inside moving, it's good.  After that, check the red cap on the inside of the left wheel, make sure it's making good contact and the cable isn't slipping inside.  Doing it this way makes it a lot easier to isolate any problems.  I'm having speedo trauma at the moment myself and just looking for time to get in and tear it down.  Good luck!!

Scott

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