From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 991
Date: Thursday, April 18, 2002 11:19 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>

2. turn signals &^%$#
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

3. Danish DeLoreans?
From: "deloreancanada" <delorean_at_dml_canada.com>

4. Monroe Sensa-Trac Shocks
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>

5. RE: refinished wheels?
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>

6. Re: Pressure Bleeder
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

7. AVS Intermediates - Replacements
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

8. Re: refinished wheels?
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Clunk By Right Rear Wheel
From: "bob.hlavacek" <bob.hlavacek_at_dml_snet.net>

10. Re: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

11. Re: Does a tune-up Now Platnium Plugs
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

13. Re: Clunk By Right Rear Wheel
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

14. Travelling to Memphis
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Delorean Radio + Parts on E-bay
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

16. Re: auto transmission pan gasket
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Trip to Minneapolis area
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

18. DELOREAN FOR SALE
From: "dmc812001" <dmc812001_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. MACHINED SHIFT KNOBS FINISHED AND FOR SALE!
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

21. Re: Parking Brake Cable Replacment Help
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>

22. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

23. Re: Mirrored Tint
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk_at_dml_cox.net>

24. Fuel tank made from Stainless steel?
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>

25. RE: Vacuum Solenoid Test
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 09:15:05 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com>
Subject: RE: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project

Nice job!! VERY COOL!

Any plans to market it?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: jwit6dmc12 [mailto:jwit6_at_dml_cs.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 8:32 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> I wanted to share with you what I've managed to accomplish over the 
> winter. When my clutch slave cylinder failed I removed the intake 
<SNIP>



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 23:01:22 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: turn signals &^%$#

One minor problem that I may look at next are my turn signals. When I make a 
turn they do not "click" off. I have to manually turn the signal off which is 
kind of a pain. 
If I make an extreme turn (maybe 1 out of 50 turns) they will turn off 
automatically. I am guessing th turn mechanism is out of alignment. I have 
been told I need to remove the steering wheel with a puller and look at the 
switch. Is this an easy repair? Or should I have a new switch on hand when I 
get the steering wheel off?

thanks,
Mike C
2109 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 19:40:56 -0000
From: "deloreancanada" <delorean_at_dml_canada.com>
Subject: Danish DeLoreans?

Hi,

  I'm going to be in Denmark for the next year, and I was wondering 
if there are any Danish DMLers here.  If so, please send an e-mail to 
me at delorean(at)canada.com.

Kevin Rawlings
DeLorean Canada
DRIVE STAINLESS




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 22:10:06 -0000
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
Subject: Monroe Sensa-Trac Shocks

Hello,

Was wondering if anyone out there has been running a set of monroe 
sensa trac shcoks on their DeLorean.  I have the corss refrence 
numbers and was looking forward to getting some new shcok shortly.  
The orgionals are ok but very rough.  I've lookced at Gradys and the 
pair that another guy sells (forgot the name, sorry).  Anyone have an 
opions on this?

- Shain
#10140




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:15:49 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>
Subject: RE: refinished wheels?

I have stated this before, but I have been very pleased with the
outcome.  My family owns an Aluminum Recycling facility where we melt
about 8 Million pounds of Aluminum wheels each month (yes I said each
month).  Anyway we dealt with another company names Transwheel who
bought any rims that were in decent shape and then refinished them for
insurance companies.  Their website is www.transwheel.com I am not sure
if they will do the D anymore or not.  They told me after they did mine
that the rims were not made very well and the rarity of the rim made
them nervous.  Now some of you might say that they were just jerking me
around as to hose me on price, but I felt the $50.00 per rim was a
pretty good deal.

Don't expect to receive that quote, that was a "family" price.

Jack  & Virginia Stiefel http://www.sacketmansion.com
1981 DeLorean Vin 3461 August 1981 Build
1988 Jaguar XJS-C V-12
Live Internet Radio at 104.9 Radio Cape Vincent
http://www.radiocapevincent.com


-----Original Message-----
From: fluxmcfly [mailto:bfreyguy_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] refinished wheels?


Has anybody ever refinished there wheels.I am looking to refinish my 
wheels which are pitted and flaking,I hear there are a couple of 
different methods? Does anybody have any idea's I would appreciate it
very much. thank you



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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:27:53 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Re: Pressure Bleeder

Not necessarily. As a pressure sprayer, it has an inlet tube that goes to
the base of the sprayer. If you filled the sprayer with fluid prior to
pressurization, you'd be using hydraulic pressure as opposed to pneumatic to
clear out the brake lines. It would take a lot of fluid to make sure
everything was flushed clean, but this would certainly keep the resevoir
from being empty.

> Message: 15
>    Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:18:20 -0000
>    From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
> Subject: Re: Pressure Bleeder
> 
> The biggest problem with your method is you can too easily empty the 
> master cylinder and to refill you must constantly relieve the 
> pressure and refill. At least on cars with plastic resovoirs you can 
> see the level so if you watch it you can catch it before you 
> empty the 
> master cylinder. BTW NEVER reuse brake fluid you remove from the 
> system when bleeding. Dispose of properly or use as paint remover! Ha 
> Ha.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > I made a poor mans pressure bleeder.
> > I bought a new master cylinder cap and put a tire valve 
> stem through 
> it.
> > Fill the master cylinder and then attach a tire chuck to the valve 
> stem.  I
> > set my air compressor regulator to a couple of PSI.  Watch 
> the fluid 
> level
> > in the master cylinder and make sure that the regulator is 
> doing its 
> job.  I
> > have used this technique with my DMC, Truck and other cars.
> > 
> > Scott Mueller
> > 002981
> 
> 
> 
> 



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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:07:00 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: AVS Intermediates - Replacements

>From our Yokohama rep...

----------
From: "Macias, Bob" <Bob.Macias_at_dml_yokohamatire.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 06:39:41 -0700
To: "'james_at_dml_usadmc.com'" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: FW: AVS Intermediates


Hiya James! Sorry for the ridiculous period of time for a response... no
excuse, except that we are short-staffed and flat out. For the time being,
the expected roll out of the AVS ES100 is scheduled to begin in June,
probably with 17" and 18" sizes first, with the remainder filling in by the
beginning of 2003. The fitments we discussed at SEMA are pretty much all
that is scheduled for now, so it would be unfair to say that the DeLorean
sizes will be added later. We WILL have the 195/60R14 available, but only in
the "H" rating... sorry. No info yet on the 235/60R15 tho. We fought hard
simply to keep the 14" and 15" fitments on the slate at all, let alone some
of the specialty sizes that y'all want and need.

We do offer the AVID S/T tire in P235/50R15 and P215/60R14 (10mm wider), but
they are only "T" rated tires and therefore, not correct. Suffice it to say,
time moves inexorably forward, and some of the stalwart tire fitments get
lost in the fray. While I cannot say with any certainty that we'll see a
direct replacement for the AVS Intermediate in specific DeLorean sizes,
please drop me a comm at year's end, and maybe I'll have some additional
info. I know this isn't the answer you're looking for, but know that I made
sure to keep you comm handy so I could respond when I was/am/are able. I
appreciate your patience and look forward to hearing from you later on this
year. Shiny Side Up!

Bob Macias
Performance Marketing Specialist
Yokohama Tire Corp.
(714) 870-3858
bob.macias_at_dml_yokohamatire.com

-----Original Message-----
> From: James Espey [mailto:james_at_dml_usadmc.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 8:46 PM
> To: bob.macias_at_dml_yokohamatire.com
> Subject: AVS Intermediates - RESENT
> 
> 
> Bob -
> 
> We talked at the SEMA show in Las Vegas last fall regarding the replacement
> tire (AVS ES100), but it didn't appear that it was going to be produced
> in the proper sizes for the rear of the DeLorean (235/60R15). Also, the
> fronts (195/60R14) are only available as an "H" rated tire, not "V". Can you
> confirm that this is the case, or have some other sizes been added?
> 
> Finally, can you recommend any matched set of Yokohama tires that will fit
> our application?
> 
> Thanks again...
> 
> 
> James Espey
> DeLorean Motor Company
> Houston, Texas 
> 
> 281/441-2537
> 800/USA-DMC1
> http://www.delorean.com
> 




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:08:54 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: refinished wheels?

Bring them to a reputable powder coater in your area. Have them 
sand/bead blast them clean and have them bake them (yes, bake) 
before they attempt to powder coat them. The baking removes all 
water from the aluminum rim and will minimize/eliminate "gasing 
out". Gasing out is when you get tiny bubbles in the finish after 
it's been powder coated and the coating is baked on.

Steve 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Has anybody ever refinished there wheels.I am looking to refinish 
my 
> wheels which are pitted and flaking,I hear there are a couple of 
> different methods? Does anybody have any idea's I would appreciate 
it
> very much. thank you




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:44:54 -0400
From: "bob.hlavacek" <bob.hlavacek_at_dml_snet.net>
Subject: Clunk By Right Rear Wheel

While driving slowly, a loud clunking noise sprung up, I didn't know from where but it clunked with every revolution of the wheel.  The clunk was eliminated by accelerating slowly to 20 mph, but then it re-appeared.  It also disappeared when I braked.  I was close to home so I accelerated and braked for a mile or so.  It seemed to be coming from the right rear wheel area.  I looked under the D but nothing obvious jumped out. 

Before I spend hours looking, does anyone know what it might be?  I suspect the drive shaft.  Any ideas what to look for?  Thanks in advance for your help.

Bob 
10961

bob.hlavacek_at_dml_snet.net




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:55:32 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project

Had the car out for an extended ride today and got the fuel mixture values a 
lot closer to what they're going to need to be . Up 25% from where they were 
with the stock intake and muffler. I considered removing the cat, and know 
the benefits would be real, but I wanted to get it on the road ;-). It went 
to 85% today here around Cleveland. Guess spring is over.

Does anyone know of a ready made cat test pipe that will fit the crossover 
pipes square  catalytic converter mount flange? It would save me from having 
to fabricating one.

Jim VIN 6147

<< Sounds like great work Jim.  Later 2.8s went with a big intake manifold. 
 eg. Puegot 504e.  It made 185 HP.  Should be interesting to see what you 
 get.
 
 You should install one of those catalytic converter test pipes.  Its 
 worth about 5-10 HP based upon the ratings of the euro version.
 
 BOB
 
 jwit6dmc12 wrote:
 
 >Hello all,
 >I wanted to share with you what I've managed to accomplish over the 
 >winter. When my clutch slave cylinder failed I removed the intake 
 >manifold to replace it, and before I knew it I decided to fabricate a 
 >new intake for use with my EFI setup. I also replaced the alternator, 
 >rewired the engine compartment and replaced the exhaust system with a 
 >polished stainless steel Supertrap.
 >
 >There's a picture on the second page of the photos section called EFI 
 >Intake. 
 >
 >After I had the original intake off I realized that with a 90 degree 
 >v 6, everything is perfectly square. No fancy angles. And with the o-
 >ring seals on the heads it seemed like a reasonable project to 
 >undertake. Anyway if it failed I could just go back to the stock 
 >intake. But it's such an ugly thing that I really didn't want to give 
 >up. 
 >
 >Anyway, the intake is all aluminum, mostly flat 1/4 inch shaped in a 
 >90 degree V with 6 independent aluminum intake runners whose inside 
 >diameters match the intake ports.  
 >
 >All the CIS wiring, sensors and switches are gone, and it really 
 >cleaned up the engine compartment. While I was at it I also moved my 
 >previously installed EFI ECU trigger from the coil to a Hall effect 
 >sensor on the crank pully. Also installed a new Accell Super Stock 
 >ignition coil.
 >
 >The intake uses twin throttle bodies from 1990 Ford Tempos. Both 
 >courtesy of the bone yard. Very economical. Idle air valve is 
 >courtesy of a Porsche 914. Injectors are Accell 24 lb high impedence. 
 >Fuel rails are extruded aluminum. All custom. This would not be 
 >possible if I didn't have my own metal working lathe. Although 
 >extruded rails are available from Accell and all you have to do is 
 >have you local machine shop machine the injector seats for you (4 1/4 
 >inch centers....)
 >
 >Air filter assy is a K&N in an Edlebrock dual quad oval with custom 
 >machined fillers to fit the smaller Ford throttle bodies. TPS is a 3 
 >wire Ford and is a direct bolt on. Engine temp and air temp are from 
 >Simple Digital Systems (along with the ECU) and the MAP sensor is 
 >standard GM 1 bar. (Although you could use the stock Bosch water temp 
 >if you wanted)
 >
 >With the new intake and the Supertrap I had to bump up the mixture 
 >values from what I used with the stock intake and exhaust about 10%, 
 >so I suspect the engine is breathing a little better. It sounds quite 
 >a bit different. Noticable intake roar under full throttle 
 >acceleration. Still using the stock cat. 
 >
 >Fuel delivery to the filter and then to the fuel rails is all stock 
 >except that I removed the fuel accumulator since it was dirty anyway. 
 >Fuel pressure regulator is a stock Nissan 240 ZX and runs at 43 
 >pounds.
 >
 >Hope to have it on a Dyno soon to finalize the mixtures and see what 
 >kind of power it makes. 
 >
 >Hope you enjoy the info....
 >
 >Jim 
 >Vin 6147 >>



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:06:06 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Does a tune-up Now Platnium Plugs

I also spoke to Rob G about the Platinum plugs and he showed me some 
he removed from a car he had tuned up. Somehow these plugs seem prone 
to blow-by between the porcelin and the shell. Although they might not 
wear, blow-by is unacceptable. Considering the cost it is MUCH cheaper 
to go with the standard plugs and just change them often (once every 
ten years or 10,000 miles?). Most of the Deloreans I have seen are 
still running on origional parts which are over 20 years old and they 
don't have Platinum plugs! Even if the plugs never wear out there are 
other parts which still should be replaced once in a while like the 
ignition wires.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_y..., Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 4/15/02 7:28:54 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> tgoodwin_at_dml_v... writes:
> 
> 
> > Got the tune-up package from John Hervey. I installed the Bosch 
> > Platinum +4 plugs. You can see a pic of it here:
> > 
> > http://www.specialtauto.com/images/boschtuneupkit.jpg
> 
> I don't know if that's the problem or not, but Rob Grady told me he 
doesn't 
> put the platinum plugs into the cars he works on - he said they 
don't 
> performin the PRV as well as the copper or silver tip plugs he 
sells.  sure, 
> the platinum plugs probably last longer, but i'd rather go with 
overall 
> reliability than sheer durability.  not only that, but you know what 
it's 
> like to pull steel out of aluminum after many years... i wouldn't 
want a plug 
> to break off in there because i bought plugs that 'last 
forever'!!!!!!
> 
> just a thought!
> Andy 
> 
> Soma576_at_dml_a...
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:58:24 EDT
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project

malevy_at_dml_paramanet.com writes:

<< Nice job!! VERY COOL!
  Any plans to market it?
  >>

No plans to market it, but its very straight forward to build. Won't work 
with CIS obviously. If anyone is interested in the dimensions I'd be glad to 
dig through my notes and make them available. The fuel rails are relatively 
easy. You can get the Accell extruded rails by the foot from Summit Racing 
and have you local machine shop machine the injector seats. The heads already 
have the right size ports for EFI. 
Jim 6147





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:55:05 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Clunk By Right Rear Wheel

> While driving slowly, a loud clunking noise sprung up, I didn't know from
where but it clunked with every revolution of the wheel.

Bob,

Luckily, I don't have any experiences to comment about what a bad drive
shaft sounds like (better known as a CV joint in DeLorean-iese).  But I can
suggest checking for brake pad rattle since this can cause a clunking
noise -- although not very loud.  Lift the car so that the rear wheels are
hanging and then spin the wheels.  If your brake rotor is warped enough and
you don't have anti-rattle springs, then the warped spot will tend to pick
up & drop the brake pads making a rattling noise.  While you have the car
up, check the four CV boots for tears.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:15:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Travelling to Memphis


Hey Group-

I have made arrangements at the new Sleep Inn here in Knoxville, TN for the layover stop for many travelling to Memphis on June 12.  This is brand new construction off of Interstate 40.  There were nicer hotels, and there were cheaper hotels- but this place seems the best combination and they were the most accomodating for our group.  The hotel has inner entry ways, well lit parking lot that is visible from the rooms, and is close to eating establishments.  

Contact Information:

Sleep Inn
865 531-5900

When calling to make reservations, tell them you are with the DeLorean group. I have arranged for a discounted rate of $58.50- and have reserved 15 rooms.  I have received much interest and know that there will be many people from NC, SC, NY, NJ...and any other parts of the country.  

Early Thursday morning we will all meet and caravan together the remaining hours on into Memphis.  It is about a 6.5 hour drive from Knoxville to Memphis. Perhaps some of us can go out Wednesday night for food a beverage ;)

Regards-

Aaron Posey



---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:40:30 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean Radio + Parts on E-bay

As I stated a few weeks ago, I have put my original ASI radio and Radio
mounting bracket for sale on E-Bay.  This is a heads up if anyone is
interested in buying either one!  Both are in EXCELLENT conidition!

The Radio:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1347116298&r=0&t=0&showTu
torial=0&ed=1019698024&indexURL=0&rd=1

The Bracket:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1347115550&r=0&t=0&showTu
torial=0&ed=1019697822&indexURL=0&rd=1

Happy Bidding!
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:54:44 -0700
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: auto transmission pan gasket



Hey Joe. I did check the vendor sites for the gasket, but was unable to find 
it separately. DMC Houston has it in a kit for 120 dollars, I just need the 
one gasket. I checked dmc.tv and still cannot find it..

Anyway, someone from the board said that the autotransmission is the same 
one used on the Renault Fuego, 1982-1986(?). It is called an MB1, or an MJ3 
for the turbo edition Fuego.

I was able to find a pan gasket for these transmissions, they both use the 
same one, at napa autoparts napaonline.com. The picture they provide on the 
site looks like the one we need. Part number: ATP 17831
I also looked up the filter for these transmissions, but it didnt look like 
the right one, it had a plastic bracket on the top. But maybe the bracket is 
removable.

But the tansmission is actually an R-30? What other cars use this 
transmission? I heard that a Grumman mailtruck also uses our transmission.

Thanks, Adam 16683


_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
http://www.hotmail.com




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 01:06:20 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Trip to Minneapolis area

Hello List - I don't know if this is proper DML etiquette, but ...
I will be in the Minneapolis area on April 22nd and 23rd, staying at 
the Hampton Inn in Bloomington.  I would love to touch base with any 
rabid DeLorean owners in the area to swap lies and drink coffee.  If 
you have the time and inclination to get together, please leave a 
message on my voicemail number shown below, or email me off-list.  I 
look forward to placing a face with some of the names!  Unfortunately, 
I will be driving a rental SOB (Some Other Brand).

PS - Let me know if I need to bring along a few sets of TOBY-TAB's.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1
voicemail (toll free) 1.888.269.8817




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:38:22 -0000
From: "dmc812001" <dmc812001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DELOREAN FOR SALE

Here it goes.
1981 Delorean #2801 : Long Island, NY
Serviced at PJ Grady's Sayville NY
21,000 original miles
Auto Transmission with new computer govenor
New Battery
Eagle GT tires with like new tread
Original Craig AM/FM Stereo Cassette and speakers(works great)
Interior like new
exterior has no dings or dents (like new)
has both guigario side stripe(black) and DMC racing stripe
(silver/grey)
new door,bonnett, engine cover struts
new solenoids/fuses
Lights/horn fully functional
most upgrades
fuel system work, fuel tank cleaned everything OK
power windows work/original parts
Have all original paperwork (owners manual, warranty info, stereo 
booklet,etc.)
have all repair records (including from original owner)
Car originally from Louisiana, no rust

Needs:
power locks need to be fixed (although car does lock manually)
some MINOR work to front suspension
needs A/C belt (A/C works)
needs a few other minor things

Price: I am asking $16,000 or best offer
Car is used right now as a daily driver and has been very reliable. I 
only need to sell due to unforseen financial difficulty, believe me, 
I would keep her forever if i could.I will get pics up here as soon 
as I can, but trust me, this car is very near new condition.
MUST NOTE: ONLY SERIOUS INQUIRIES PLEASE
( I understand that there are many youngsters on here that like pics 
and stuff, but only seriously interested respond)
Thanks for your attention.

Sincerely,
Steve T.
#2801 Long Island, NY





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:17:10 -0400
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: MACHINED SHIFT KNOBS FINISHED AND FOR SALE!


Hello everyone, I am pleased to say I can now start selling the machined 
Delorean shift knobs I promised. There are three designs and the sperical 
replacement design is available in both aluminum and stainless. I have 
driven the car with all three and lave each one. Also, I feel that the 
aluminum knobs actually match the cars finish better than the stainless. One 
more thing, for no extra cost I will offer the knobs in either a brushed 
finish like the car or a polished finish if you like. Go check them out on 
my website.

Sincerely, Casey at http://putschdesign.tripod.com/PPD/


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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 04:01:33 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...

Yes, at the bottom of the distributor there are two spring with weights
of different size.
This is so there are two mechanical (centrifugal) timing advances.
I have no idea how far apart in RPM it takes for one or both weights to
cause advance, but I would have guess (by sight) that the advance for
both was about 10 degrees...


Jim 1537 


> --- As a side note, I noticed the when the vacuum is disconnected 
> and 
> tested the timing, pulling on the throttle advanced the timing. 
> Question is, does the D utilize mechanical (centrifugal) advance as 
> well as vacuum advance?
> 
> Thanks for the advice,
> 
> Travis
> 3512
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderator_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
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> 
> 


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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 12:21:52 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Cable Replacment Help

Shain,

Routing information for the parking brake cables can be found in the parts
manual diagram 6/2/1. Go to the following link for parking brake adjustment
information:  http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/ParkBrakeAdj.html

You should completely remove the drivers seat for easier access to the brake
handle cable attachment area.

DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv

----- Original Message -----
From: "shainbrannan" <shain_at_dml_elecmods.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 8:48 PM
Subject: [DML] Parking Brake Cable Replacment Help


> Hello,
>
> I recently rebuilt ym rear calipers and am in the process of
> replacing my passenger side rear parking brake line.  Can someone
> please tell me the proper procedure to to remove and replace the old
> one.  I have it off at the brake end and am up to where it enters
> the car.  I have the parking brake handle off the car (the cables
> came off earlier).  I'm a little puzzled as to where the cable
> enters the car and how it hooks up to the handle.  Seems like there
> is very small amount of room to work there.  And also if there is an
> adjustment procedure as well for the brake end.  I'm also in the
> process and replacing all the rear lines with SS ones,  think i can
> manager that it;s just going to be a little tight, but what isn't on
> this car.  Runnign out of time until the spring social.
>
> - Shain
> #10140





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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 03:55:24 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...

"I've also been investigating a couple of leads on a good used passenger
door, and have decided to use the original driver's door which only has a
couple of nicks..."

I think if you check, the passenger door and the dirver door are shaped
differently.  I do not think they are interchangeable :)

But seriously folks...  Sounds like you're on the right track with the
stalling problem- it sounds like your idle system is not working
correctly after the engine warms and the warm up regulator "turns off". 
Check the idle speed motor, the idle speed switch, and for the usual
vacuum leaks. 

About old gas; I'd say get rid of it.  Even with stabilizer, gas really
does just get old.  I didn't even believe it myself until once when I
changed from older gas to new and the engine went from sputtering to
running.

Jim 
1537



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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 02:16:51 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Mirrored Tint

Hi Dick,

Our car came with darkened rear side windows as well and I think it looks
nice too.  We had to go ahead and replace a few things to get the A/C up to
speed but since then it's been working great and as I said for Arizona
that's a pretty good recommendation of the DeLorean's A/C system.  I hope it
makes spending the money worth while.  I know my wife wouldn't be to happy
if it didn't work!

Mike Atkinson
vin 16232



Subject: Re: [DML] Mirrored Tint


> I wondered what kind of response I'd get to that
> comment.  Frankly, I have never had a problem keeping
> my car cool insde either.  However, so many others
> seem to have ongoing problems with the
> airconditioning.  Or, at least I assume so from the
> number of times air conditioning comes up on the list.
>
>
> I will say, however, that the tint on the windows is
> not only attractive (at least to me) but it also keeps
> out quite a bit of the sun's heat and that, in turn,
> makes it even easier to keep the interior cool.
>
> Dick Ryan

> > "since the air conditioner can be a bit wimpy at
> > times, the tint helps a
> > heck of a lot."
> >
> > Dick, We haven't had any problems here in Arizona
> > I'm glad to say!
> >
> > Mike Atkinson
> > vin 16232



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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:42:34 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Fuel tank made from Stainless steel?

Casey,

Since you are so good with stainless steel, I thought I would mention this
idea to you (and the rest of the group) for suggestions.  In order to reduce
the noisy fuel pump problems caused by hot fuel, I'm thinking about a new
fuel tank made from stainless.  It would give more room for the coolant
pipes to pass through the bottom sides so that there would be more room for
insulation.  This would come at the expense of making the volume of the tank
smaller.  But there is room in the frame for other dimensions of the tank to
be larger (such as on the front edge).  In order to simplify the design, I
was thinking that the top of the OEM plastic tank could be cut out and
re-used.  It could fit into the top of the new stainless one with a gasket.
This whole thing might be a bad idea, but maybe someone can give some
insight on it.  For myself, I have already taken on more projects than I can
get done in a reasonable time.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:24:04 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Vacuum Solenoid Test

I don't own a vacuum gauge, but I do have a finger. When I was running all
the other tests on it, I disconnected the output line and put my index
finger over it. This was a risky procedure since the engine was at operating
temperature. The vacuum was definitely there. As I revved the engine, the
vacuum never changed. It was constant. That was what I figured was causing
the over advance at idle.

I'm thinking there's a broken electrical connecting inside the solenoid
which prevents it from being energized. 

> Message: 13
>    From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe_at_dml_att.net>
> Subject: Vacuum Solenoid Test
> Travis,
> Here is an easy test to determine if the solenoid valve is 
> functionally properly. Place a vacuum gauge on the output line of the 
> solenoid valve



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