From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1328
Date: Friday, January 03, 2003 4:38 AM

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There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. JZD Address
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

2. DeLorean's GTO is back
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

3. Torsion Bar Adjustment in Chicagoland area
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. RE: Steering rack replacement
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Need help with broken emission hose
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Value of D going Up?
From: "silverdelorean2002 <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>

8. Re: Need help with broken emission hose...nevermind!
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Steering rack replacement
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: DeLorean's GTO is back( Media)
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Dakota Dash
From: "M. P. Olans <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

12. RE: Steering rack replacement
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: Steering rack replacement
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 05:34:54 -0600
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: JZD Address

I received the following mailing address to use for correspondence with John DeLorean.

John DeLorean
PO Box 1092
Bedminster NJ 07921-1092

Dave S



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 06:43:15 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: DeLorean's GTO is back

I was just looking at the www.laautoshow.com web site.
 
The Pontiac GTO will be back on the road in 2004.  It will have the Chevy
Mouse Motor, 5.7L small block  to you young guys.  6 speed manual, rear
wheel drive.  I can't wait to see what it looks like.
 
The GTO was the vehicle that started the muscle car era, small car with lots
of power.  We can thank JZD for that.
 
FWIW
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 00:36:07 EST
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Torsion Bar Adjustment in Chicagoland area

Hello list,

Does anyone in the Chicagoland area have the tool and experance to adjust the 
torsion bars.  I've been meaning to get this done for a while, but havent 
ever gotten around to it.

Best wishes for a safe and happy new year.
Andrew



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 04:26:55 -0500
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes

Actually John, the "Impedance" quoted on speakers is the same as the DC
resistance - put an ohm-meter across the terminals and you'll see what I
mean.

"Impedance" is the word for "resistance" in a dynamic (eg ac) environment.
A speaker is one big inductor - whose unit is the Henry. However, from a
simplified point of view, the amplifier can be matched to a load *as if it
were a resistor*, so speakers are sold with a rating of their impedance.

Most stereos will have an output load of between 4 and 16 ohms. The lower
the impedance, the harder the amplifier will have to work and depending on
the quality, the worse but also louder it will sound.

I've copied this onto dmc_electrics as this is going a bit too far off
topic IMO.

Martin

Original Message:
-----------------
From:  dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 14:44:29 EST
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes


Andy, There is a difference in 4 ohms resistance and 4 ohms impedance that 
speakers run on. If the total ohms of impedance doesn't match the output 
impedance  of the unit your installing, it will sound bad. You can't really 
measure impedance with an ohm meter. You just have to hook it up the way
the 
manufacture says to match.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .





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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 04:33:45 -0500
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Steering rack replacement

Hi Knut

I'm curious - did you try removing a couple of adjustment shims to tighten
your old rack before deciding on a replacement? It's not a procedure that's
widely known, and it's not in the manual. If you take off the small cover
over the pinion, there are three or four adjustment shims which push it
down onto the rack more as they're removed.

FYI, the Tie rod ends (called Track rod ends here) are identical to those
off a Triumph herald, and are available, on-line from the following site,
in $US for $14.43 each. International shipping available.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer.bat?findpart&PartID==GSJ158

And they look like this

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DSCN0436_640.jpg

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458
#4426

Original Message:
-----------------
From: ksgrimsr knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 00:09:36 -0000
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Steering rack replacement


I had a chance to replace my steering rack over the holidays and I 
thought I would share my experience with you in the event some of you 
are considering the same procedure.



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 10:57:41 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Need help with broken emission hose

I found that the Purge Signal Hose, the hose between the vapor 
canister and intake manifold, has come off from where it hooks to the 
intake. I can't see where it connects back on looking at my engine, 
and I havent found any diagrams or photos that show it clearly either.

Where does it hook on?
Will I have to remove the intake manifold to reattach it?

Thanks,

Adam




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 13:56:21 -0000
From: "silverdelorean2002 <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>
Subject: Value of D going Up?

Hey guys, I remmeber talking a little while ago about the value of 
the D going up as a result to the BTG trilogy release. I remmeber 
David T saying that he thought it would go up. It looks as if it has. 
Amazing look at this. I have been lookin on ebay for D's for over 2 
years and over this time the d was selling between 8-14 at the most. 
Go to ebay now and do a search at highest price first and take a 
look. The highest price with bidders is up to 24K. There are also 
another at 18k and a few others that loko like by auctions ends will 
be at 15k shich 2 months ago never gat past 11k. There is ever a real 
hacked up UGLY D in my opinion with 90K miles is POOR condition goin 
for 11k. Go take a look guys. Looks like if your selling your D to 
raise the price. Lets keep a good thing going.


Jon
#10103




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 14:33:14 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need help with broken emission hose...nevermind!

Nevermind I found it. Never be hasty.
Adam

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_h...>" 
<acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I found that the Purge Signal Hose, the hose between the vapor 
> canister and intake manifold, has come off from where it hooks to 
the 
> intake. I can't see where it connects back on looking at my engine, 
> and I havent found any diagrams or photos that show it clearly 
either.
> 
> Where does it hook on?



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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:17:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Steering rack replacement

Although there are shims there and you can add and remove them to 
adjust for manufacutring tolerances it isn't such a good idea to do it 
for wear. The problem is that the rack tends to wear more in the 
center of travel, less at the ends. If you adjust the "looseness" out 
in the center you may make it too tight at the ends. Normaly when a 
rack is "remanufacured" the rack is reground along it's entire length 
and when reassembled now when you can adjust the play at any point in 
it's travel and it is equal at all points. This is not to say you 
can't remove a shim or two, just be sure to check the play at several 
points in the position of the rack to make sure it doesn't bind 
anywhere. If it was to "stick" it will interfere with being able to 
return the wheel to center quickly and could be dangerous during 
driving. If you are going to work on the brakes or steering be VERY 
careful as if these two systems don't work PERFECTLY you could lose 
control of the vehicle!
 The procedure wasn't in the manual and many "field repairs" of parts 
were never intended to be performed at the dealer service level. As 
with most Auto manufacurers it was intended to either send parts back 
to a wharehouse for rebuilding or just outright replacement. The 
Dealers are not reembursed for rebuilding service parts, just removing 
and replacing them to keep the times down. This applies to water 
pumps, starters, alternaters, radiaters, A/C compressors et al. The 
situation is now completly different due to the limited availability 
of some parts, cost, and the perserverence of the owners. In fact it 
is one of the main reasons for the DML, to share info on keeping the 
Delorean going!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mgutkowski_at_dml_c..." <webmaster_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> Hi Knut
> 
> I'm curious - did you try removing a couple of adjustment shims to 
tighten
> your old rack before deciding on a replacement? It's not a procedure 
that's
> widely known, and it's not in the manual. 



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 10:49:26 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean's GTO is back( Media)

Scott, 
Interesting that you would bring this up. Over the holidays I have added a 
large section on the site under ( Literature ) and started off the magazine 
part with a 1967 article about John and being Mr.GTO. 
I am putting everything in date of issue order and am looking for any and all 
publications. Magazines, books , news paper. 
Send me an email on what you have that isn't on the site already.
Hey, Martin, Paul, Chris and others in Europe, Yall have a lot come out over 
there that I need. Help,,,
 John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< I was just looking at the www.laautoshow.com web site.
  
 The Pontiac GTO will be back on the road in 2004.  It will have the Chevy
 Mouse Motor, 5.7L small block  to you young guys.  6 speed manual, rear
 wheel drive.  I can't wait to see what it looks like.
  
 The GTO was the vehicle that started the muscle car era, small car with lots
 of power.  We can thank JZD for that.
  
 FWIW
  
 Scott Mueller
 002981
 RNDOLA
 
  >>



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 16:19:31 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Dakota Dash

For those of you who are new to this list or perhaps just this thread,
the digital dash project was one I began a few years back.  I worked
extensively with Dakota Digital to produce a dash with which I would
be comfortable.  I had two made, one I kept for myself and the other
was sold to a former owner who didn't hook everything up quite right
from my understanding.  Louie bought his car and inherited any issues
there may have been.

I had mine done by Rob Grady so I knew it would be done right and
installed with quality.  Rob has the schematics of the install and
even kept a few of the pod's warning lights for me as a nice touch. 
The dash has the same layout of the analog gauges, two smaller ones on
top of each other on the left and right, and the speedo and tach big
sharing the center with bar graphs above and numbers in the middle. 
The odometer/trip odometer is below the speedometer.  I had the
placement of the smaller gauges altered, however.  In the upper left I
have my fuel, lower left is the voltmeter, upper right is the oil
pressure, and the temp gauge in the lower right.  The Dakota gauges
will flash when they hit the user programmable warnings/limits so I
put the temp gauge where I would be most likely to see it out of the
corner of my eye.  I was surprised at how well everything works and
the visibility is perfect and unobstructed by the steering wheel.  In
fact I was going to purchase the $30 dimmer option complete with
brushed aluminum dimmer knob, but I found that I never need to adjust
the dash brightness.

There are turn signal indicators, a bright lights indicator, and when
your emergency brake is on a "b" shows up on the speedometer.  The
speedo takes its cues from a pulse generator which is driven right off
the lower speedo cable.  I kept this arrangement in case I ever wanted
to go back to the analog gauges.  I can tell you that won't happen and
I am planning to put this setup in my other car if it does not sell. 
Besides, any electronic cruise control unit can take the signal from
the Dakota pulse generator.  I have an aftermarket kit on my car and
Louie has the Dakota kit and both work well.  I didn't want anything
in the engine compartment from the cruise control unit so I hooked up
to the pedals directly and ran the wires to the brain in the trunk. 
The one challenge was that the threads on the metric temp sensor did
not match the ones on the block or the water pump, but Rob Grady had a
guy machine an adapter and everything works perfectly.  I have
pictures from the trip back from Memphis, but unfortunately the
digital camera I own won't focus on the dash when the car is moving. 
You can get a good idea of the install from them and I am willing to
share with anyone interested.  A few are posted in the files section.

Dakota will make this kit for you for somewhere in the $900 range and
it comes in blue, teal, or green.  However if there are interested
parties out there, if we all get together and place a bulk order they
will discount it by the number of orders they receive.  If you are
interested please let me know as I have the details.  For an extra $45
they professionately installed the unit in my binnacle frame.  

Matthew
VIN #16816
VIN #10365

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_c...>"
<brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Contact Louie G (louie AT delorean.com). Not only could he shoot you
> some pics, but describe the pros & cons as well. Not long ago he was
> willing to give his digital dash to anyone who would do labor to swap
> their analog gauges.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 12:16:30 -0500
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Steering rack replacement

Hmm, that link didn't get posted correctly - let's try again:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer.bat?findpart&PartID=GSJ158 

Original Message:
-----------------

FYI, the Tie rod ends (called Track rod ends here) are identical to those
off a Triumph Herald, and are available, on-line from the above site,
in $US for $14.43 each. International shipping available.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .





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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 18:17:27 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Steering rack replacement

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mgutkowski_at_dml_c..." <webmaster_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> 
> I'm curious - did you try removing a couple of adjustment shims
> to tighten your old rack before deciding on a replacement?

I did receive your helpful note with the suggestion, and I apologize 
for not following up with you on it before.

My rack also had a sloppy inner tie-rod end in addition to the play 
in the rack itself, so I thought it best to replace. I was curious at 
your suggestion, however, so I did take a look as you recommended.

I'm not sure if I missed it or if my previous rack (which was a 
rebuilt one as well) had a different setup, but when I removed the 
little cover plate on my rack I did not see any shims as you 
indicate. In my case there was a plastic/nylon insert in the cavity 
with a spring recessed into it. The spring was tensioned by the 
coverplate when screwed in place. The spring appeared to press the 
nylon bushing against smooth the backside of the rack, presumably to 
press the rack against the gear.

Since I either misunderstood your suggestion or my configuration was 
a little different, I'd be curious about some additional details on 
the shims you refer to. Could it be that as part of remanufacturing 
the rack that when the rack is reground the shims are removed to 
comensate? Maybe since my previous rack was remanufactured I already 
had no such shims.

    Knut






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