From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1340
Date: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 4:02 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Frame issues
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

2. Brake booster vaccuum hose
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Frame issues
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

6. DeLorean books on Amazon,
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Frame issues
From: "Classified <vegascop1_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <vegascop1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. 1981 DeLorean for sale. 11,000 miles.
From: "atilla_the_ham <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>

9. Re: I'm considering a DeLorean, but I want to ask experts first.
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Re: Frame issues
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

12. Car in Florida
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

13. Re: Frame issues
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Frame issues/Dropping Frame
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Frame issues
From: "saalexander2000 <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: Brake booster vaccuum hose
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Oil drain plug removal tool
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. RE: DeLorean books on Amazon,
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

19. Transmission computer parts?
From: Greg Linstad <greglinstad_at_dml_resrchintl.com>

20. Steering Column/Oil Filter
From: "geek321y <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>" <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>

21. Nose/Eyebrows
From: "geek321y <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>" <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 2003 22:57:04 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Frame issues

why not buy a car with a decent frame that is a good runner and then get a stainless
steel frame installed then you wont have any problems. check out this website that makes
the stainless steel frames and other stainless parts for the delorean.
http://www.pearce-design.com/

mark



"dmcburn75 " wrote:

> After looking at many DeLorean's for sale, I think I am going to bite
> the bullet and purchase a refurbished car from DMC in TX. I am in the
> process of calculating the difference in a refurb or a good daily
> driver. My main concern is the frame. Many cars I have looked at have
> had some rust on them, and some very clean. My question to the list is
> the idea of coating the frame(por-15). Even If I purchase a great car
> with no rust I will want to have the frame coated as I live in the
> northeast. What is the cost to do something like this at a shop like
> PJ Grady's? I am assuming it is fairly labor intensive to seperate the
> frame, coat it, then reassemble...am I wrong? If it isnt a five
> thousand dollar job then maybe I will consider that car in great shape
> and not a refurb for nearly 40k. Thanks again all!
>
> -Kirk McLeod
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 00:42:33 EST
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Brake booster vaccuum hose

Can someone tell me where on the engine is the vaccuum hose to the brake 
booster?  I think I might have a vaccuum leak and want to pinch it off at the 
engine to check.  Thanks again.

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 05:56:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Frame issues

What you are talking about (removing the body, disassembling the 
frame, painting the frame, and reasembling) is a very labor intensive 
(read expensive) operation. In doing this you will come across may 
things that will have to be repaired, replaced or worked on "just 
because you are already there". You will essentially be "restoring" 
the car. I think you would be much better off to keep looking for a 
really clean car where there are no frame issues. It will be less 
costly to overpay for the car up front then to start a project like 
this. Unless you decide to use the car as a daily driver and subject 
it to road salt a frame in good shape will last a very long time if 
used occasionaly and when not used kept in a garage. There are some 
areas of the frame that are "boxed in" and unless you cut holes to 
gain access you can't protect or paint them so just painting the 
outside of the frame isn't enough. It could also be economicaly 
feasable to consider the S/S frame that is available, not only will it 
never rust it doesn't have to be stripped, repaired, or painted ever. 
As for what P J Grady would charge for things that question is best 
asked directly of them and not the DML but I think a job like this is 
going to cost you way more then $5,000 and that doesn't count how long 
it will take and how quick they can even get to start it!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcburn75 <dmcburn75_at_dml_y...>" 
<dmcburn75_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> After looking at many DeLorean's for sale, I think I am going to 
bite
> the bullet and purchase a refurbished car from DMC in TX. I am in 
the
> process of calculating the difference in a refurb or a good daily
> driver. My main concern is the frame. Many cars I have looked at 
have
> had some rust on them, and some very clean. My question to the list 
is
> the idea of coating the frame(por-15). Even If I purchase a great 
car
> with no rust I will want to have the frame coated as I live in the
> northeast. What is the cost to do something like this at a shop like
> PJ Grady's? I am assuming it is fairly labor intensive to seperate 
the
> frame, coat it, then reassemble...am I wrong? If it isnt a five
> thousand dollar job then maybe I will consider that car in great 
shape
> and not a refurb for nearly 40k. Thanks again all!
> 
> -Kirk McLeod




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 02:06:58 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one

In a message dated 1/12/2003 11:40:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ttanaka504_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> Hello, list. I found the OLD DeLorean 500+ page Vinyl repair manual   
> in ebay last night, and wonder How difference between this and a repair 
> manual from D venders?
> Please can anyone tell me about it.
> 
>      you may see the picture from 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewitem&item=1875505454&
> ssPageName=ADME:X:ON:US:2
> 

That is the "Technical Owners Guide/Parts Manual" issued by the now defunct 
DeLorean Motor Club of America.  They have been out of print for years.  The 
Owners Guide part is a copy of the likewise unavailable Technical Service 
Manual long out of print from DMC.  Is it different from the commonly 
available repro Workshop Manual?  Yes, but material from it is replicated in 
the Workshop Manual.  Illustrations are obviously different.  As for the 
text, I suspect they're not actually identical, but can't swear by it.  
Haven't had time to check it out word by word. (Can anyone on the DML add 
their 2 cents on that?)
The second part is the standard second edition owners manual by DMC that can 
still be bought as a repro from vendors.
Another difference is that it's nice to have them in the same binder... so 
you can flip to the Parts section for clarification.  Much larger and more 
detailed illustration than many of the repair manual illustrations.
Where can you get one? One comes up on ebay every few months.  
I've seen them go for anywhere from $75. to over $125.  Conditions vary.


Wayne A. Ernst
New DeLorean Manual Project (still alive but stopped counting when I got past 
40 original manuals)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 02:26:31 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one

I said in a prior posting:
"the likewise unavailable Technical Service Manual long out of print from 
DMC."
I should point out that there is a repro by e-Novel titled "Technical Service 
Manual"  but it is NOT the same as the Technical Service Manual issued by 
DMC. I own both and DID do a page by page comparison.. twice... and found 
that the e-Novel manual is about 93% identical to the standard repro Workshop 
Manual with the remaining 7% or so being a repro of the Auto Trans section of 
the original Technical Service Manual by DMC.  As such, it IS different from 
the Workshop Manual, but personally, I don't think Jack should have named it 
identically to a different manual.  Just confuses things, and also makes it 
seem completely different from the Workshop Manual, which it isn't.

Wayne A. Ernst  
vin 11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 02:47:35 EST
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean books on Amazon,

Hello list,

I was looking for DeLorean related books on Amazon.com and found some great 
deals.  But before I purchase anything I wanted to get some feedback on what 
types of experances people have had with amazon.  Yes the prices are low, but 
how much do you get hit for extra service and shipping charges?

Just want to be safe rather than sorry.
Thanks
Andrew
4194



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 08:54:36 -0000
From: "Classified <vegascop1_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <vegascop1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frame issues

Kirk,

The other day I stumbled on a dealer that offered stainless steal 
frame. If thats what your worries are I think that would def. do it!
Ski 4649

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcburn75 <dmcburn75_at_dml_y...>" 
<dmcburn75_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> After looking at many DeLorean's for sale, I think I am going to 
bite
> the bullet and purchase a refurbished car from DMC in TX. I am in 
the
> process of calculating the difference in a refurb or a good daily
> driver. My main concern is the frame. Many cars I have looked at 
have
> had some rust on them, and some very clean. My question to the 
list is
> the idea of coating the frame(por-15). Even If I purchase a great 
car
> with no rust I will want to have the frame coated as I live in the
> northeast. What is the cost to do something like this at a shop 
like
> PJ Grady's? I am assuming it is fairly labor intensive to seperate 
the
> frame, coat it, then reassemble...am I wrong? If it isnt a five
> thousand dollar job then maybe I will consider that car in great 
shape
> and not a refurb for nearly 40k. Thanks again all!
> 
> -Kirk McLeod




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:37:17 -0000
From: "atilla_the_ham <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>
Subject: 1981 DeLorean for sale. 11,000 miles.

I am VERY VERY sorry if I have posted this in the wrong place. I 
looked at classifieds and it rerouted me here.

Again, my sincere apology if I've posted incorrectly. I drive a V8 
miata and am on other yahoo message boards and understand what a pain 
noobs are.

With that said....

I have a pristine DeLorean for sale, 11,000 miles. Garaged, climate 
controlled environment. Runs and drives great. Im in Louisville 
Kentucky.

I am asking 17,000. 

If you would like details please call 502-797-1845 and ask for 
George, regarding the Delorean for sale. 

Thanks so much for your time.





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 10:51:32 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: I'm considering a DeLorean, but I want to ask experts first.

In a message dated 1/11/03 8:43:00 AM Central Standard Time, 
chrismoore_at_dml_mchsi.com writes:


> 1 - Can I take my delorean to Jiffy Lube and get the oil changed for 
> 19.95 without them looking at me like I'm insane? How hard is it 
> REALLY to get yoru delorean worked on for those regular things, ie 
> new brake shoes/pads, oil changes, new belts, radiator flushes, etc 
> etc etc? 

Chris,

just so happens that i am a Jiffy Lube store manager.  unfortunately the 
correct oil filter doesn't have an adequate cross reference in the US and 
Jiffy Lube does not carry the DMC oil filter.  however you can certainly buy 
your own filters from your favorite DMC vendor and then Jiffy Lube should 
have no problem - except for the drain plug!  the drain plug is a peculiar 
one, one that i have never seen on any other car that has ever come thru my 
store.  it is similar to a 3/8 drive slot, but smaller (metric).  i made my 
own tool by grinding down an old 3/8 ratchet.  perhaps if you could find a 
suitable tool (maybe the D vendors have one? or at least they would know 
exactly what to use) THEN any oil change place should be able to do the job.  
don't forget to tell them there are 4 grease fittings on the front 
suspension! they are kind of hard to notice.  

radiator flushes are no problem, however i would recommend making sure to 
install DMC Joe's self-bleeding kit before hand. that way you will be sure to 
get all the air out when doing a flush.  belts are a piece of cake - again, 
purchase your parts from the vendors and if you do not want to try the job, 
ANY competent place should be able to get the job done for you.  

in general, if you do not have the ability to do your own work (in all 
likelyhood, you will learn to do this work as soon as you have your own car), 
you can purchase the correct parts from a vendor and have someone else you 
trust do the job for you.  i would avoid following a mechanic's idea that he 
can get the parts for you from carquest, napa, or whatever - often times it's 
a close match but not exact - you always are sure to get the right stuff when 
you order from DMC Houston, PJ Grady, DMC Joe, etc.  might be a little more 
expensive (sometimes it's actually cheaper!), but i would rather have peace 
of mind knowing that i did the job w/o having to guess if something is going 
to work ok.

Andy
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:13:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one

I have noticed in the couple of Workshop manuals I have seen that 
there is a large chunk missing from the Automatic Transmission 
section. I bet 95% of people have never noticed it mainly because 
their car is a 5-speed. Another big reason is that unless you are 
actually rebuilding the automatic transmission the missing information 
isn't important. I got my manual from P J Grady and until I pointed 
out to Rob about the missing pages he didn't even realize it. (They 
were able to provide the missing pages). Besides the "missing pages" 
there are numerous errors throughout the manual, some small and some 
large, I keep notes in mine and try to correct whenever I find one. At 
one point DMC Houston asked for corrections which I had sent. They 
said they were in the process of creating a "new, updated, and 
corrected manual. This is a tremendous effort and the time and expense 
is enormous. You can't realize it until you actually try to do such an 
effort. It is a major effort just to keep track of the corrections. 
All of these manuals evolved from the origional paperwork created by 
Delorean Motor Company for the Dealers. IMHO the the best manual is 
the origional manual without anyone's modifacations until a better 
corrected version can be created. For anyone really interested in this 
kind of materiel Bosch has excellent reference books on the fuel and 
engine managment systems, some of it Delorean specific. At this point 
in time I think Wayne Earnst can be considered our resident expert 
(along with James Espey of course) as he has investigated many 
versions and reprints of the available manuals. Last time I spoke to 
him he was trying to create an updated version but because of the 
immensity of the task I guess it is "on the back burner". In the 
meantime I guess we will muddle through with what we have now and the 
archives of the DML.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanernst_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I said in a prior posting:
> "the likewise unavailable Technical Service Manual long out of print 
from 
> DMC."
> I should point out that there is a repro by e-Novel titled 
"Technical Service 
> Manual"  but it is NOT the same as the Technical Service Manual 
issued by 
> DMC. I own both and DID do a page by page comparison.. twice... and 
found 
> that the e-Novel manual is about 93% identical to the standard repro 
Workshop 
> Manual with the remaining 7% or so being a repro of the Auto Trans 
section of 
> the original Technical Service Manual by DMC.  As such, it IS 
different from 
> the Workshop Manual, but personally, I don't think Jack should have 
named it 
> identically to a different manual.  Just confuses things, and also 
makes it 
> seem completely different from the Workshop Manual, which it isn't.
> 
> Wayne A. Ernst  
> vin 11174
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 11:41:27 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Frame issues

also if you live in the north east and plan on driving it in the winter the stock frame no matter how good it is the dmc houston refurbished delorean or ebay car the frame still wont last long. i suggest drive it in the summer only or get a stainless frame installed because you are going to destroy a good frame driving it in the winter.

mark





"Classified " wrote:

> Kirk,
>
> The other day I stumbled on a dealer that offered stainless steal
> frame. If thats what your worries are I think that would def. do it!
> Ski 4649
>

[moderator snip]



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:48:47 -0500
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Car in Florida

Saw an '81 Delorean, w/ automatic transmission for sale on a lot in Ft Lauderdale, Florida, next to the monster flea market on Sunrise Blvd. Asking $18,000,  says he turned down $13,000. Body looked very straight. Inside was clean but binnicle had a wide split.No time to hear it run or test drive. Will be back there in Feb if someone wants me to check it out. Contact me off line. 

Marv
# 17707
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com


 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 13:48:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frame issues

My 2 cents on this subject is as follows, why spend
40k on a refurb when you can get a decent D for about
15k then get the Stainless Steel frame for something
like 8k (please don't quote me on that figure as I
haven't looked at the going rate in a few months) now
your up to  23k even if it cost another 7k to do the
frame swap and any other little manitenance things
your still ahead by 10k that you can put in your piggy
bank for a rainy day and ontop of it you have a D that
is nearly indistructable. Salty Roads? where were
going we dont need to worry about salty roads!

Todd
Vin 5386
--- "dmcburn75 <dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com>"
<dmcburn75_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> After looking at many DeLorean's for sale, I think I
> am going to bite
> the bullet and purchase a refurbished car from DMC
> in TX. I am in the
> process of calculating the difference in a refurb or
> a good daily
> driver. My main concern is the frame. Many cars I
> have looked at have
> had some rust on them, and some very clean. My
> question to the list is
> the idea of coating the frame(por-15). Even If I
> purchase a great car
> with no rust I will want to have the frame coated as
> I live in the
> northeast. What is the cost to do something like
> this at a shop like
> PJ Grady's? I am assuming it is fairly labor
> intensive to seperate the
> frame, coat it, then reassemble...am I wrong? If it
> isnt a five
> thousand dollar job then maybe I will consider that
> car in great shape
> and not a refurb for nearly 40k. Thanks again all!
> 
> -Kirk McLeod



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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 14:02:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frame issues/Dropping Frame

One other side note on this subject, anyone who has
ever done it, can tell you Dropping the frame and
doing a seperation is not something you do over the
weekend. Trust me on this one I'm in the middel of it
myself. And as previously stated once you get in there
theres a whole bunch of other stuff your gonna have to
do because Oppertunity is saying knock knock!! Also
don't expect one of the many D shops to jump on this
job right off the bat either, I'm not sure how busy
they are but frame seperations are needless to say not
the most fun job in the book, and there time costly.
also there very expensive and they lead to what I like
to call Domino Expendatures. Take one thing off and
find out that the one thing you just took off has
turned into 2 seperate pieces and now have to replace
it (my engine mounts for example) It's all a matter of
time, money, elbo greese, and oppertunity. I'd
personally just go for a sound car with a nice clean
frame and just hose it off in salty weather. Easy,
cheap and cost effective. A hose is like what 20
bucks? :D

Todd
Vin 5386

[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:09:08 -0000
From: "saalexander2000 <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Frame issues

Hi Kirk,

Why not get DMC in Texas to refurb you a car with a stainless frame 
that you supply?  That way you get a total refurb car with a rust 
proof frame.  This would also save on the labour involved in doing it 
seperately.

Stuart

#16686




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:24:06 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Brake booster vaccuum hose

Am replacement PRV so don't know if this 100% applies...

I've got one big takeoff from the passenger side intake rail (3/8").
Is the only line running to front of car, so I assume is driving brake
booster and panel vents.

Don't forget to check all other nipples (I had two capped off on
UNDERSIDE of upper air assembly, now plugged), the cold start tube,
the U pipes, and indeed the manifold itself. I often use spray carb
cleaner to check -- engine will rev up if it hits a leak.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctordhd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Can someone tell me where on the engine is the vaccuum hose to the
brake 
> booster?  I think I might have a vaccuum leak and want to pinch it
off at the 
> engine to check.  Thanks again.
> 
> Dave
> 6530
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 23:34:57 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Oil drain plug removal tool

I just bent a piece of 5/16" keystock 90 degrees. Square recess is 8mm
-- same basic size. Once you have plug out you can replace with a hex
head if desired (most parts houses have beaucoups of different size
plugs), but IMHO would be harder to maneuver against cross member than
the stock plug.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 1/11/03 8:43:00 AM Central Standard Time, 
> chrismoore_at_dml_m... writes:

>except for the drain plug! the drain plug is a peculiar
>one, one that i have never seen on any other car that has ever come
thru >my
>store. it is similar to a 3/8 drive slot, but smaller (metric). i
made >my
>own tool by grinding down an old 3/8 ratchet. perhaps if you could
find >a
>suitable tool (maybe the D vendors have one? or at least they would know
>exactly what to use)




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 17:50:27 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: DeLorean books on Amazon,

Amazon will tell you all the relevant charges.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:AJL521_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:48 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DeLorean books on Amazon,


Hello list,

I was looking for DeLorean related books on Amazon.com and found some great
deals.  But before I purchase anything I wanted to get some feedback on what
types of experances people have had with amazon.  Yes the prices are low,
but
how much do you get hit for extra service and shipping charges?





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 16:05:57 -0800
From: Greg Linstad <greglinstad_at_dml_resrchintl.com>
Subject: Transmission computer parts?

 In the dmcnews archives Mark Hershey wrote an excellent article with
pictures about the rework done to the boards and identifying the
replacement components. I have been searching for the tantalum caps he
listed, but am having difficulty locating metal ones like the ones
shown. I can easily get the correct values ( 4.7 to 10 microfarad, 20 to
50 volt) but not in metal, only epoxy (yellow) in radial or axial leads.
I'm looking now in a Digikey catalog and see what looks like metal, but
says ceramic. Also, solid tantalum, 'wet slug', tantalum capacitors or
tantalum electrolytic capacitors, molded solid tantalum, please you EE
guys help a ME out, I'm on thin ice here. Are they all the same except
for size and rating?
Also, the .1uf caps on the back side of the board I can only find epoxy
and no voltage is identified.
Earth to Mark Hershey. I tried your phone number listed in the DOD, it
didn't work.
This is the first automatic transmission I have ever worked on, and one
of the caps is 'blown' like shown in Mark's write up. The car is my new
VIN# 6214 with only 9,600 miles.

Greg Linstad
pndc.org
VIN# 3507  "RUSTLSS"
VIN# 6214  "RUSTLS2"




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 01:38:36 -0000
From: "geek321y <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>" <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>
Subject: Steering Column/Oil Filter

Has anyone found cross ref. for upper and lower canopy on the 
steering column or a car with a similar one.
What oil filter does everyone suggest to use if a delorean one is not 
available and will not damage my sender unit.






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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 01:45:53 -0000
From: "geek321y <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>" <tecno_at_dml_mpinet.net>
Subject: Nose/Eyebrows

Does anyone have a sure fire way to fix the eyebrows on the nose over 
the bright lights or do i have to relace the nose




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