From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 3:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1342

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Nose/Eyebrows
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

2. Re: oil filter plug replacement
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: oil filter plug wrench
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Oil Drain Plug
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. grounding equipment to battery?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Transmission computer parts?
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. oozing windshield sealant
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

8. no heat/ hot water valve continued.....
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Autocross opportunity
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

10. New DeLorean Manual was:How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Re: Frame issues
From: John Gedeon <johne_g_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Toby TABS
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

13. Sad Delorean on Ebay
From: "netym89 <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

14. Re: Dash Cover Template
From: "netym89 <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

15. Re: Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)
From: Viktor Tilander <ownerof_at_dml_delorean.com>

16. Repost and Apology. DeLorean for sale in Kentucky. PERFECT.
From: "atilla_the_ham <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>

17. ADMIN: Car for sale ads
From: "Dave Swingle <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>

18. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

20. RE: Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

21. Auto Tranny computer
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: oozing windshield sealant
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. RE: grounding equipment to battery?
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

25. Re: Repost and Apology. DeLorean for sale in Kentucky. PERFECT.
From: "Eric Pullen DMC" <delorean_at_dml_ericpullen.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:25:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Nose/Eyebrows

I looked into doing this about a year and a half ago and after removing
the headlights, I couldn't get the aluminum bars in. I searched the
archives and found exactly the "right" size, but still couldn't figure it
out.

I sent my car down to DMC Garden Grove and they said that they've only put
the aluminum bars in with the facia off the car. The also said that you
can only reinforce straight facias, and that first you have to get the
eyebrows out. To do this, they said that they'd have to take my facia off
the car, and send it to a shop that would dip it into some sort of warm
liquid. The facia would then "remember" its shape and straighten out. Only
then could it be reinforced with aluminum and reinstalled into the car.
They quoted well over a thousand dollars for the job, when a new facia is
listed by DMC Houston for 650 dollars. Hrmm...

Has anyone here actually straightened out their eyebrows with a heat gun?
Did you do it on the car? Were you able to get the aluminum braces in
while on the car? I'd love to hear that this is a DIY project.

-Christian



On Tue, 14 Jan 2003, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> You remove the headlights and epoxy a THIN piece of aluminum to the
> underside of the facia to keep it straight (it has to be thin because
> there isn't much room with the headlights in). You might have to heat
> up the facia and hold it flat till the epoxy sets so everything lays
> flat when cured.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "geek321y <tecno_at_dml_m...>" <tecno_at_dml_m...>
> wrote:
> > Does anyone have a sure fire way to fix the eyebrows on the nose
> over
> > the bright lights or do i have to relace the nose



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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 18:57:34 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: oil filter plug replacement

Gus and Group, If you want to get away from the special tool and the chances 
it will strip out. I have an oil drain plug that is SS and a brass that uses 
a standard 17mm wrench or a crescent. No hang ups and anyone can take it off.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



<< The oil drain plug socket is a Snap-On tool, part number 111104 from 
delorean.com.  I
 keep mine in the glovebox.
 
 I had a local lube shop offer to drill out the pan and install a "normal" 
plug.  I
 passed!  However, one could weld some square stock into the drainplug, 
making it male
 and removable with "normal" tools.  And if you screw up, new drainplugs are 
about $4.
 
 I was turned away from a lube shop once, because my car was too exotic 
(Volvo?) and too
 expensive (less than that Lexus over there!).  A letter to the shop owner 
got me an
 apology letter and a promise to stock my correct oil filter.
 
 
 
 Gus Schlachter
 VIN# 4695
 Austin, TX
  >>



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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:26:33 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: oil filter plug wrench

In a message dated 1/14/03 4:06:42 PM Central Standard Time, 
gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com writes:


> I was turned away from a lube shop once, because my car was too exotic 
> (Volvo?) and too
> expensive (less than that Lexus over there!).  A letter to the shop owner 
> got me an
> apology letter and a promise to stock my correct oil filter.
> 

Eh......
if they get it in, it will be a low quality carquest or fram filter or 
something like that.  forget them - do yourself a favor and bring your own 
filter - they will be glad you did.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:28:48 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug

In a message dated 1/14/03 4:04:12 PM Central Standard Time, 
watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net writes:


> Also has anyone tried the new 
> FRAM plugs that have the oil drain hose.  It seems like you simply twist 
> on the drain hose and it releases the catch and starts to drain.  I'm 
> not sure which model number it is for the FRAM drain plug but it seems 
> like a neat idea if it actually works. 


My friend has this thing installed on his 2001 Monte Carlo.  it is unlikely 
that the hose thing will fit due to the short clearance between the drain 
plug and the engine cradle.  you could always take it back if it doesn't 
work, but for the same price you can get that snap-on tool and use aluminum 
foil like you have been - and you have the peace of mind of knowing that the 
hose thing isn't installed all kinked and crooked!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:48:20 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: grounding equipment to battery?

List,

this isn't exclusively DeLorean-related but it does deal with the stereo 
equipment i am installing in my D.

i have read from many sources that the best place to ground high power stereo 
equipment is to ground it directly to the ground connector on the battery 
rather than the frame. if you ground all of your equipment with a 
distribution block and have only one heavy gauge cable going to the battery, 
this will eliminate ground loop interference.  i have NEVER seen anything 
grounded to a car battery before - is this really a good idea? i should think 
it would be ok but i'm not sure! any ideas?

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 03:10:06 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission computer parts?

The caps use axial leads, a lead from both ends of the capacitor.
Adam


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "twinenginedmc12 
<twinenginedmc12_at_dml_g...>" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Greg Linstad <greglinstad_at_dml_r...> 
wrote:
> >  In the dmcnews archives Mark Hershey wrote an excellent article 
> with
> > pictures about the rework done to the boards and identifying the
> > replacement components. I have been searching for the tantalum 
caps 
> he
> > listed, but am having difficulty locating metal ones like the ones
> > shown. I can easily get the correct values ( 4.7 to 10 
microfarad, 
> 20 to
> > 50 volt) but not in metal, only epoxy (yellow) in radial or axial 
> leads.
> ...
> 

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:33:24 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: oozing windshield sealant

Q: I've had wet carpets in the past; and now I've noticed what looks like
tar oozing from underneath the windshield into the interior side of the car.
Could  this have oozed out and created a leak point? How can one tell? Can I
take this to a shop and have it reseated?

Thanks,
Kevin




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 03:13:05 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: no heat/ hot water valve continued.....

Well I finally got around to investigating my no heat problem, and 
sure enough the hot water valve was stuck in the closed position. The 
spring on it has corroded and broken. I basically had to break it to 
put it back into the open position... but at least i have heat now!!

Adam Price




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 22:33:24 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Autocross opportunity

My coworker's Mustang group is going to rent out the autocross site at the
old blimp base in LaMarque (Houston, TX area) sometime in February.
If anyone nearby is interested in tearing up some tires, let me know
offlist.
I probably won't be running the gauntlet, but thought I'd pass the
opportunity along.
Kevin
dmc4687(at)mindspring.com.




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 00:42:08 EST
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: New DeLorean Manual was:How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual

In a message dated 1/14/2003 8:04:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com writes:


> . I have what appears to be a "bootleg" copy of the workshop manual... 


> 
> The manual appears to be a "custom" copy that someone hand-edited. For 
> instance, every page has a # typed in the lower corners. The entire section 
> on 
> "Frame/Body" is hand typed with only a couple of clip-art inserts from the 
> Parts 
> Manual...

From your description,  that's a DMC-written Technical Service Manual issued 
in late 1981.  They look pretty patched together, exactly as you described. 
Yours may actually be an original.  They're so poorly printed that even 
originals look like copies.


> In reading both of the manuals, I can tell you that the problem with the 
> inaccuracies isn't due to incorrect information, so much as 
> incomplete/sloppy 
> tranlsations and adaptations for the DMC-12 application (ie. the A/C 
> section 
> has footnotes for 1979 & earlier vehicles).

Actually, you can find both problems, as any vendor will tell you.  For 
instance, Service Bulletin ST 36 -12/81 was issued with the Technical Service 
Manual. It mentions an illustration on page 4:5-19 that should say "needle 
up" not "needle down."  Yet that change was not made in the later Workshop 
Manual where it should have been (page G:07:07) Since ALL the repro manuals 
available today are completely unedited, if you buy a brand "new" one from 
your favorite vendor tomorrow, it STILL has that same error in it.  Not a 
good thing!


 
 If a rewrite is to be done, then one 
> person shouldn't take on the entire book. Individual sections should be 
> completed by people with specific experience in the particular repairs, and 
> they should be written/proofread one at a time.
> 

I agree.   I previously suggested a team compiling the amassed wisdom of the 
DML into a concise format but found out it can't be done. Since the 
individual writers, in accordance with  DML bylaws, do not assign copyright 
privileges to the DML, you can't compile it.  So I tried it the other way, 
with a separate, (presently dormant,) e-group for tech issues where it is 
understood that all submissions are available to be re-edited, republished or 
whatever without writing for everyone's permission or paying "royalties."  
Some folks were outraged, convinced I'd get filthy rich from requoting their 
valuable scribblings in printed form.  Fat chance. As Dave Swingle observed, 
there's no money to be made at this, it has to be a labor of love.  Others 
feared a competing site weakening the DML, though they serve different 
issues. When the dust settled, I decided to use the website for a page by 
page "what's wrong with this picture" exercise for input, to be issued free 
unedited on the internet, or in edited printed format for a fee. But first I 
had to ask:  How many manuals were there?  How can you tell an original from 
a copy?  What constitutes a complete copy?  Is this the best copy available? 
Sounds simple, but no one could actually tell me, including any well known 
DeLorean guru you might name.  Two and a half years and couple thousand 
dollars later, I KNOW.  (I've bought more than half of the original DeLorean 
manuals that have appeared on E-bay for the last several years.) I even have 
unpublished materials used to train DeLorean mechanics in the classroom 
before ANY manuals were published. Unfortunately, that was the EASY part of 
the job. A few years ago, Ed from DeLorean One told me I "must have too much 
time on my hands" to even contemplate this project. I have had time on my 
hands this week due to knee surgery, but after next Monday, it's back to 4 
hours sleep a night.  Are there any possible volunteers out there to help 
with this, now that the DeLorean Dead Sea Scrolls have been assembled? If 
you'd like to e-mail me off list, use waernst(at)aol.com so I spot it more 
easily.  D owners only, please!  Thanks.


Wayne A. Ernst
vin 11174
the new DeLorean manual project


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 21:59:51 -0800 (PST)
From: John Gedeon <johne_g_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Frame issues


Can any california drivers (mainly people closer to
the coast) offer any input on how the salty air we
have affects the DMC's frame, if at all? ie if its a
daily driver or not. What about fog? (I guess that is
a good reason not to leave one outside over night)

John

VIN: accepting donations

=====
<>< Proverbs 3:5 "Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding;"



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 23:53:48 -0800
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: Toby TABS

Just wanted to announce that the supply of Toby TAB trailing arm bolts is gone.  At Saturday's PNDC meeting one member brought one of the original bolts out of his (and formerly MY) 12,000 mile car that was noticeably bent.  Lucky for him he had purchased a Toby TAB set long ago just in case.

To my friend Toby Peterson, thank you for your continuing efforts to improve the safety and driveability of our beloved cars.  To those who purchased them, thank you for your support and foresight.  It still amazes me how long and how much effort it took to get just slightly over 1% of owners to upgrade this very critical factory weakness.  Yes they were expensive, but as one who experienced a "very close call" failure a few years ago, I still believe they are an absolute necessity.  And to the 99% who apparently did not share that opinion, three words of advice: please drive slowly.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 08:44:07 -0000
From: "netym89 <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Sad Delorean on Ebay

Whoahh!! Every so often we run into a late model car that really 
looks abandoned and in sad shape. Well, here's another one that needs 
a good home. I realize that most of us would turn our back on one of 
these but it has potential. The Dream will continue to live on!!
PS. I am not the seller of this car, for anybody that may ask!
Have a look:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=31830&item=2400100553





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 08:45:53 -0000
From: "netym89 <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Re: Dash Cover Template

That's excellent news!!
Now I need to get a hold of Gary Masie. How?
Thanks again.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Vinciguerra (11-110750)" 
<joseph.vinciguerra_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> I have one that I got from Gary Masie.  He may have templates.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: netym89 <delorean_at_dml_t...> [mailto:delorean_at_dml_t...]
> Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 9:58 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Dash Cover Template
> >
> >
> > I have experimented with fabric to make a dash cover. The thin
> > carpet material is probably the right choice for the job. So now,
> > I am in search of a template to make the dash cover. There must
> > be something out there that we as owners can use to sew up one
> > if we have the  skills.
> > Any info on this by any chance??
> >
> > John E.10250




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 00:59:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Viktor Tilander <ownerof_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)

Hi all!

Just wanted to mention that you can see a guy do just that at:
http://www.smartfilm.se/grace/DMC%20rest%20p1.mov

You get to see a swedish-talking guy (with the strangest dialect btw) remove the fascia and so on...

It isn't really that educational but anyways...

Viktor Tilander
#2949

--- "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
>You remove the headlights and epoxy a THIN piece of aluminum to the 
>underside of the facia to keep it straight (it has to be thin because 
>there isn't much room with the headlights in). You might have to heat 
>up the facia and hold it flat till the epoxy sets so everything lays 
>flat when cured.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "geek321y <tecno_at_dml_m...>" <tecno_at_dml_m...> 
>wrote:
>> Does anyone have a sure fire way to fix the eyebrows on the nose 
>over 
>> the bright lights or do i have to relace the nose



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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 12:31:45 -0000
From: "atilla_the_ham <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>
Subject: Repost and Apology. DeLorean for sale in Kentucky. PERFECT.

My apologies for my prior post regarding my DeLorean for sale. I left 
it to my secretary's devices to place the ad online for me. She didnt 
even get the price correct. :(

1981 Delorean. Just over 11,000 Miles. PERFECT interior. PERFECT 
exterior. Runs great. Drives Great. Starts right up and runs like a 
champ. Very strong. Every component on this car works. Windows, door 
struts, all switches etc etc.

VIN # SCEDT26T9BD001798.

Also with the car, tucked away in the owners manual leather pocket is 
the original road and track article on the car, two DeLorean Motor 
Car Club Decals that were never placed on the car. An Order Form for 
a DeLorean factory Turbo Kit which was intended for the car and some 
other various DeLorean information booklets, including the owners 
manual. And I still have the original Window Sticker taken from it 
when it was new and tucked away in this pouch. 
I have a complete factory DeLorean Parts and Repair Manual, all 
original. 

If interested, please CALL my cell. Im not typically online and Im 
not very net savvy so I may miss your messages here or elswhere.
502-797-1845 my fiancee George will answer. 

The car is available for test drive or inspection in Louisville 
Kentucky.

$24,000. 

Thanks for your time.





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 16:44:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>" <dswingle_at_dml_enteract.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Car for sale ads

No problem with posting them here, but it would be more effective at 
http://www.dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/dmcforsale.html. I know from the web 
server counter that this is by far the most active page on the 
dmcnews website, and based on the activity a LOT of cars are being 
bought and sold thru us. Maybe I ought to start charging for the ad 
space.......nah.

Dave Swingle




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 13:36:55 +0000
From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?

Andy,
With the stereo equipment I have installed in my DeLorean, and all other 
cars, I always connect the negative directly to the battery.  Its easier 
most of the time and gives a more sturdy connection.  I've never had a 
problem with this.
-chris-

>i have read from many sources that the best place to ground high power 
>stereo equipment is to ground it directly to the ground connector on the 
>battery rather than the frame

_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* 
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 09:22:02 EST
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?

Andy:

The best ground is to the power source itself, which is the battery.  There 
is no substitute for a good ground and the battery's terminal is the best 
point.  The frame and all other "attached" components which is to be used as 
a grounding point, will in time have some resistance due to corrosion and the 
dissimilar metals will enhance this process.  Just make sure that your ground 
wire, as your "supply wire," are the correct gauge for the "said" equipment 
and don't forget to use a heavier gauge for the longer "running length."  
Also make sure all the terminals and hold screws downs are tight, for they do 
losing up through time by vibration and heat which will cause arcing.

FYI..... High power audio amps with the inadequate thinner gauge wire will 
suffer power lose, besides dangerous wire melt down.  Thinner gauge wire 
result in degradation of sound, especially in the low bass frequencies and 
the high end "sweetness" if the amp is capable of delivering it.

You don't want to "wire for fire" or to "learn by burn."

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 08:25:35 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)

I watched the video.

Entertainment would be the best description for it.

My question is, is the metal attached to the topside surface of the
headlight well, or is it attached inside the facia, between the topside of
the facia and the topside of the headlight well?

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: Viktor Tilander [mailto:ownerof_at_dml_delorean.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 3:00 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)
>
>
> Hi all!
>
> Just wanted to mention that you can see a guy do just that at:
> http://www.smartfilm.se/grace/DMC%20rest%20p1.mov
>
> You get to see a swedish-talking guy (with the strangest dialect btw)
> remove the fascia and so on...
>
> It isn't really that educational but anyways...
>
> Viktor Tilander
> #2949
>

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "geek321y <tecno_at_dml_m...>" <tecno_at_dml_m...>
>> wrote:
>> Does anyone have a sure fire way to fix the eyebrows on the nose
>> over
>> the bright lights or do i have to relace the nose



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 10:13:21 EST
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Auto Tranny computer

Does anyone have the schematic and / or operation description of the actual 
transmissin computer?

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:21:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?

In general it is not good practice to hook additional wires directly 
to the battery terminals, + or -. You start to get into issues of 
corrosion and maintaince, when you remove the battery you may not 
notice and hook up any extra wires. The best place to go with 
additional grounds would be where things are already grounded to the 
frame. If you have a really heavy or "special" thing to ground the 
absolute best place would be where the cable from the battery connects 
to the frame. Of course all the warnings about clean and tight rule so 
when disturbing any ground points make sure everything goes back 
together "clean and tight".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> this isn't exclusively DeLorean-related but it does deal with the 
stereo 
> equipment i am installing in my D.
> 
> i have read from many sources that the best place to ground high 
power stereo 
> equipment is to ground it directly to the ground connector on the 
battery 
> rather than the frame. if you ground all of your equipment with a 
> distribution block and have only one heavy gauge cable going to the 
battery, 
> this will eliminate ground loop interference.  i have NEVER seen 
anything 
> grounded to a car battery before - is this really a good idea? i 
should think 
> it would be ok but i'm not sure! any ideas?
> 
> Andy
> 
> Soma576_at_dml_a...
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:29:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: oozing windshield sealant

If you think your windshield (windscreen) is leaking test it with a 
water hose. If it leaks in general a repair is not really recommended. 
The best course of action is to remove the windscreen, clean 
everything and reinstall. I have seen where a windscreen "slid down" 
past the 2 little clips on the bottom, leaked at the top and cracked 
at the bottom. This should not be attempted by anyone without a lot of 
experience, there is a chance of breaking the windscreen and if not 
reinstalled correctly it will just leak anyway. In most big cities you 
can find a service that will come to you house and do the job in 20 
min while you watch. It is also a very messy job if you aren't careful 
with the sealant. Should cost somewhere around $100, a lot cheaper 
then breaking the thing! While it's out it's a great time to clean up 
areas of the car you can't normaly get to.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Q: I've had wet carpets in the past; and now I've noticed what looks 
like
> tar oozing from underneath the windshield into the interior side of 
the car.
> Could  this have oozed out and created a leak point? How can one 
tell? Can I
> take this to a shop and have it reseated?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin




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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 10:51:52 -0500
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: RE: grounding equipment to battery?

Hi Andy

The chassis is grounded as you know, but provides a very large lump of
metal connected to the battery down one piece of wire. That large lump of
metal picks up EM noise from all over the place, and the battery is relied
apon to "snub" it (the battery acts like a large capacitor - something for
which lead acid batteries are supremely good at as I have recently
discovered). I'm trying to explain this in layman's terms and failing
miserably! Basically the instantaneous voltage on a given part of the
chassis is more prone to "bouncing" - ie having noise on it - the further
away from the battery terminal it is. The better the conductivity to the
battery, the less noise you'll see. Because the entire chassis relies on
the one piece of wire to the battery, in an ideal situation you'd want to
eliminate it for devices prone to noise. 

However, if you experience problems (and I doubt you will) by using a
different ground point, you can snub it at the amplifier by putting a
capacitor across the power supply terminals. You can buy caps for this
purpose from car hi fi shops.

You can't break anything by experimenting - just set it up how you'd like
and see if you like the sound.

Martin
#1458
#4426
Original Message:
-----------------
From:  Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 20:48:20 EST
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] grounding equipment to battery?
>
>
> List,
>
> this isn't exclusively DeLorean-related but it does deal with the
> stereo equipment i am installing in my D.
>
> i have read from many sources that the best place to ground high
> power stereo equipment is to ground it directly to the ground
> connector on the battery rather than the frame. if you ground all
> of your equipment with a distribution block and have only one heavy
> gauge cable going to the battery, this will eliminate ground loop
> interference.  i have NEVER seen anything grounded to a car battery
> before - is this really a good idea? i should think  it would be ok
> but i'm not sure! any ideas?



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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 10:52:29 -0500
From: "Eric Pullen DMC" <delorean_at_dml_ericpullen.com>
Subject: Re: Repost and Apology. DeLorean for sale in Kentucky. PERFECT.

I live in the area, so if anyone out of state wants someone to go and take a
look at the car for them and take some digital pictures, please let me know
(delorean_at_dml_ericpullen.com).  I would personally be interested, but I think
its a little steep, but to each his own.

Eric

----- Original Message -----
From: <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2003 7:31 AM
Subject: [DML] Repost and Apology. DeLorean for sale in Kentucky. PERFECT.


> My apologies for my prior post regarding my DeLorean for sale. I left
> it to my secretary's devices to place the ad online for me. She didnt
> even get the price correct. :(
>
> 1981 Delorean. Just over 11,000 Miles. PERFECT interior. PERFECT
> exterior. Runs great. Drives Great. Starts right up and runs like a
> champ. Very strong. Every component on this car works. Windows, door
> struts, all switches etc etc.
>
> VIN # SCEDT26T9BD001798.
>
> Also with the car, tucked away in the owners manual leather pocket is
> the original road and track article on the car, two DeLorean Motor
> Car Club Decals that were never placed on the car. An Order Form for
> a DeLorean factory Turbo Kit which was intended for the car and some
> other various DeLorean information booklets, including the owners
> manual. And I still have the original Window Sticker taken from it
> when it was new and tucked away in this pouch.
> I have a complete factory DeLorean Parts and Repair Manual, all
> original.
>
> If interested, please CALL my cell. Im not typically online and Im
> not very net savvy so I may miss your messages here or elswhere.
> 502-797-1845 my fiancee George will answer.
>
> The car is available for test drive or inspection in Louisville
> Kentucky.
>
> $24,000.
>
> Thanks for your time.



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