From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1346
Date: Friday, January 17, 2003 3:32 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Headlights Conversion/Wiring
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

2. Re: Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Alternator Question.
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

4. RE: Motorama 2002
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

5. Re: Re: Autocross opportunity (Pidgeon Hole)
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Autocross / Tail of the Dragon (Pidgeon Forge)
From: "d_rex_2002 <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

7. delorean on ebay torsion bars
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

8. Re: Re: New Gull-Wing Automobile
From: "DeLorsche" <delorsche_at_dml_msn.com>

9. Re: french project
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: Toby TABS
From: "Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

11. Sealing top of windshield (Re: oozing windshield sealant)
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: Toby TABS
From: "Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

13. Re: oozing windshield sealant
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Toby TABS
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

15. When will Hollywood decide on Delorean movie?
From: "netym89 <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

16. Re: Headlights
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

17. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

18. Rob Grady's Zilla Products
From: lhemb_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. Stuck Throttle Cable.
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

21. Re: Alternator Question.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Ds in France
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

23. new V6
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

24. A Few Quickies ... Clutch, Brakes, Springs and Lights
From: "the_great_gazoo.rm <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

25. Top Ten Car Movies
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 23:12:26 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Headlights Conversion/Wiring

On Wed, 15 Jan 2003 23:42:21 +0000, "Chris D'Urso" wrote:

> I used those "HID look" headlights in my car until inspection (the people
> there said they are illegal).  They are H4 bulbs in a universal 6" x 4"
> housing and they fit well.  The H4 bulbs had some bleedover so when the
> lowbeams where on the highs had a bit of light coming from them also.

You should switch over two wires in each plug for the headlights.
Sealed Beams and H4 have the Dipped and Ground wired switched,
so what really happens is that the Dipped beams puul ground through
the 4 High beam filaments. You should fix this as you now have deminished
performance of the dipped beams and are wearing out the High beam filaments.
 
> Some companies on eBay also sell wire conversions that will help
> with the wiring and bleedover effect.

I believe John Hervey has these pigtails, or can at least make them for you.
Where I live the Sealed Beams are illegal, so the lights HAD to be converted
to H4. This had been done by a previous owner, but he forgot to swap the
wires too, I did this myself when I got the car.

You need to swap the Black and Blue/White wires to get the correct function.

A brief description:
-Take out the headlight (the outer ones are the only ones neccesary)
-Pull the plug off of the bulb (remove rubber seal first if applicable)
-Put the light aside
Next bit is only for the BLACK and the Blue/White wire, leave the Blue/Red
-Stick a smaal screwdriver into the slots just ABOVE the slot where the
 bulb plugs in. push down the little tab locking the contact into the plug
-push/pull the contact  outof the plug at the side with the wire
-pry the tab back up
-put the contacts into the correct positions:
 looking ath the plug from the side the bulb plugs in:

           Blue/Red
              ---
Blue/White  |     |  Black

-Assemble everything else in reverse order

Align your headlights or get them aligned, it's not that ard to do,
you can find instructions on various internetsites...

Good Luck,

Jan van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since sept 2000
-------------------------------




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:16:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay

I looked at the pics of this D, is this a canadian
model? the 16396 is a canadian vin correct? and the
throttel spool cover is present. I just noticed those
2 things.

Am I right?

Todd
Vin 5386


> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "netym89
> <delorean_at_dml_t...>" 
> <delorean_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> > Whoahh!! Every so often we run into a late model
> car that really 
> > looks abandoned and in sad shape. Well, here's
> another one that 
> needs 
> > a good home. I realize that most of us would turn
> our back on one 
> of 
> > these but it has potential. The Dream will
> continue to live on!!
> > PS. I am not the seller of this car, for anybody
> that may ask!
> > Have a look:
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> > ViewItem&category=31830&item=2400100553

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:16:29 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Alternator Question.

<SNIP>
> And before changing the alternator - clean all the contacts first, 
replace
> nuts and washers and don't forget the carbon brushes in the 
alternator -
> cost about 5 bucks and one hour of work to replace them when worn 
(probably
> after 50k miles or so, mine after 35k miles !)and give your 
alternator the
> chance to work properly. A "better" alternator won't solve your 
connection
> problems !
> 
> My two cents on car hifi...
> 
> Elvis & 6548

That brings up an interesting point. On both alternators that I've 
had, I will end up with a low-voltage problem whenever I drive thru 
puddles of water. I was also reading up on another site about the PRV 
in the Eagle Premier, and it mentioned that the alternator on the 
bottom of the motor is not an ideal place to be mounted. It also went 
on to speak about installing a splash sheild, or having one 
fabricated. Does anyone have an imput onto this? Specificly if on was 
ever made available for the Volvo 260, or 760 V6 that could be 
installed onto the DeLorean? Runoff water here is pretty groady, and 
my last alternator was caked on with road grime. So I'd like to 
extend the life of this one far beyond it's warranty.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:44:40 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Motorama 2002

[Moderator Note: We've had a ton of responses asking this same silly question.  I've picked this one at random to approve, just so people will stop asking!  The rest I've rejected.  - moderator Mike Substelny]


How come there are no bikini models around your car?
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: media1524 <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net> Subject: [DML] Motorama 2002


I just noticed that my 1983 "D" made the highlights of the 2002 
Motorama show in Harrisburg, PA.

http://www.trail-wayspeedway.com/2mtshow02.html

Brent Lundgren
1983 VIN #17006
1981 VIN #3049





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:49:38 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Autocross opportunity (Pidgeon Hole)

As you know we always do a driving tour and this time we will be doing the 
"Dragon Run" which is a curvey hilly road that has curves everywhere.

The driving tour is part of the show and is no cost to do.
If you want to volunteer to help put it together we are always looking for 
help 
:-)

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 00:06:15 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002 <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Autocross / Tail of the Dragon (Pidgeon Forge)

Gus,

I agree an autocross would be great, but do not forget about nearby
Tail of the Dragon, 40 miles of driving bliss.  First 11 miles goes
from 2,660 feet to above 5,300 feet, then you start back down to a
low of about 900 feet.  Recommended speed limit 40 mph in Tennessee,
with 55 mph allowed in the North Carolina portion.  Both have regular
radar checks by car and by helicopter.  I highly recommend everybody
performing complete brake maintenance before attempting this run. 
More details can be found at the following websites:

http://www.tailofthedragon.com/dragon.html

http://www.mountainhomepage.com/chero_ron/loop.html  

Motorcycle clubs make this run on a regular basis in good weather.
The National Ferrari club made an assault on the Dragon in 2001.

It would be great to see a huge caravan of Deloreans run the Dragon
in 2004.  It would be even better to do this without incident.

Food for thought.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hey Ken, are you listening to this thread?
> 
> I love the car shows that Ken has put on thus far, but I don't have 
a concours car.  I'd
> love to have a all-DMC autocross setup somewhere at the next car 
show in
> Pidgeon-Whatever.
> 
> Would anyone else be interested?  Enough to pay an extra entry fee, 
even?
> 
> 
> Gus Schlachter
> VIN# 4695
> Austin, TX





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 17:35:08 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: delorean on ebay torsion bars

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400336084

this seller claims to have replaced both torsion bars on the car only as a safety
percaution. he just felt  more comfortable knowing he was replacing not only the lift
pistons, but it also gave a support for both doors!

he said he bough them from a defunct dealer in New Jersey, maybe they have more driver
side torsion bars? maybe he still has the old drivers side torsion bar.

mark



id wrote:

> i was wondering if anyone else has subscribed to the deloreans magazine since
> thanksgiving with a charge card and has gotten their order processed yet?
>
> i was wondering because i placed my order with them the week of thanksgiving and STILL
> haven't had them charge my card yet. i have asked about this problem and i am getting
> the run-around and i was wondering if anyone else is going through what i am going
> through with them.
>
> mark
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 19:38:37 -0500
From: "DeLorsche" <delorsche_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: New Gull-Wing Automobile

Recently, I was at the Detroit Auto Show and saw the Infinity Triant.  After
the guy's presentation (which I completely missed), I asked him if the car
had a chance for production or if the doors were going to be used on any
future cars.  The answers were that the car would not go to production and
that he does not know about the doors (probably not).  The car looked very
good in person.  There was a horizontal bar just aft of the door at about
the same height as a normal door handle that when lifted up, the doors
opened and when pressed down, the doors went down.  The door moved very
slowly and was powered by either electricity or by hydraulics.  There was
absolutely no noise made by the movement.  A couple of time his hand slipped
off and the door stopped at that instant.  As far as the power supply, there
was an extension cord that came from the floor and plugged into the car to
maintain peak power.  FYI.

What I thought was also pretty neat was a Jaguar.  They brought a car
(cannot remember the name now) that was all aluminum - the complete outer
skin including bumpers and all.  There was no paint, but instead the entire
surface was polished to a mirror - absolutely beautiful!

Sean Howley
VIN#2345



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 01:15:31 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: french project

My D is re-engined with a Renault PRV (R30TX). Several advantages over
stock DMC. Email me direct at brobertson"AT"carolina.net to discuss.
Can also put you in touch with Martin G's PRV man who knows 'em like
back of his hand (Martin: got over advanced condition corrected BTW).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ferdaniraphael
<raphael.ferdani_at_dml_w...>" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Hello
> I live in france, a country where D's are rare but salvage yards are 
> full of PRVs....
> I finally found a D that has been waiting in a backyard for a 
> restoration.I wondered how much I could offer for a project car 
> needing lot of work. (owner asking $8500....)
> I need advises and the experience of all of you before starting a 
> project; is a restoration a good idea ?
> Feel free to contact me raphael.ferdani_at_dml_w... 
> Have a nice day
> Raph




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 01:49:53 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Toby TABS

John, and those who are relatively new to the game - the best way to 
learn more than you'll ever need to know about trailing arm bolts is 
to click on the link below, get a fresh cup of coffee, and dive in.

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tabolts2.html

If you have any questions, or if anybody has any ideas on how to 
sponsor (read: finance) a second batch, please feel free to contact me 
off list at tobyp(AT)katewwdb.com .  Darryl tells me that brighter 
tailights for Winged1 should be my next project.  Martin - what do you 
know about making LED panels?

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Gedeon <johne_g_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Heres what may sound like a stupid questiong but...
> What's the trailing arm bolt? And whats it do?
> John





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 01:06:22 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Sealing top of windshield (Re: oozing windshield sealant)

Ford windshields circa 1980 are also glued in. Have cured leak on a
Lincoln and my truck same way, although I used basic silicone from a
gun (that stuff doesn't fool around -- clean up excess while it's
still wet). No problems after 3 years.

Question for Rick: "It, however, hasn't been exposed to rain, so my
success or failure is theoretical at this point.  I hope never 
to test it." Your D doesn't come out in inclement weather? Kind of
defeats purpose of our "rustproof" little cars...

Bill Robertson
#5939
 
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "twinenginedmc12
<twinenginedmc12_at_dml_g...>" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "K Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Q: I've had wet carpets in the past; and now I've noticed what 
> looks like
> > tar oozing from underneath the windshield into the interior side of 
> the car.
> > Could  this have oozed out and created a leak point? How can one 
> tell? Can I
> > take this to a shop and have it reseated?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Kevin
> 
> Hi Kevin.
> I've had this oozing problem on another car.  The front windshield 
> bead used on DeLoreans is that squishy butyl stuff.  It obviously can 
> dissolve under certain conditions.
> 
> I have successfully removed, and reinstalled my DeLorean's windshield.
> It was not easy.  I think the only reason I pulled it off, is because 
> I've broken windshields on previous attempts on other cars, and have 
> learned from my mistakes.  Also, a number of little unrelated 
> problems popped up that might have to be ignored by a professional, 
> who's after all doing it for the money, and is under a time budget.  
> No offense intended.
> 
> Having done the job, I know what I would do, and not do, if I were in 
> your shoes.
> I would remove the top windshield bezel plate, and seal the joint 
> between the top edge of the windshield with RTV sealant.  Getting 
> this plate off is not too hard.  The screws are hiding under the 
> weatherstripping.
> 
> I would be pretty liberal with the sealant.  While I was there, I 
> would also try to seal the edges of the stainless steel bracket, the 
> one that holds down the bezel.
> For good measure, I would put a blob of sealant over the screws that 
> hold the stainless steel bracket down(if they haven't rusted to 
> powder, that is), completely covering the screw holes.
> 
> Also, I would cover all the exposed underbody material with a thin 
> layer of the sealant as well, to prevent moisture from penetrating 
> the material, freezing, and cracking it, like it obviously had on my 
> car.
> 
> I would put up with the slow dripping of the black goo, and clean it 
> off the inside of the windshield from time to time like I did on the 
> car I owned which had that problem.  The only cure for that is 
> replacement of the windshield bead.  
> 
> It's overwhelmingly likely that only the top windshield bead is 
> leaking, so I would not worry about the sides, or the bottom of the 
> windshield.
> 
> I would not remove, rebead, and replace the windshield just for a 
> leaking top bead.  This is certainly a very good and thorough thing 
> to do, but the risk of windhield breakage outweighs the benefit, it 
> would seem.
> 
> There's a good chance that the above tasks alone will seal a leak 
> between the windshield and underbody.
> 
> 
> On my car, I've done all of these things. (though I also removed and 
> replaced the windshield)  It, however, hasn't been exposed to rain, 
> so my success or failure is theoretical at this point.  I hope never 
> to test it.
> 
> You might ask John Dore for advice, who to my understanding has 
> successfully fixed his leaking roof and windshield.
> 
> Rick Gendreau
> 11472




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 01:41:57 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Toby TABS

Jeff and List - The signed original engineering drawings, material  
specifications, and all associated quality control paperwork are 
safely in my personal files.  The vendor has the documents as well, 
and could produce another batch if requested.  The batch would 
probably have to be a minimum of 100 pieces for him to consider it, 
and he would require a prepayment for the entire production run.  His 
costs include the material, setup, manufacturing time and equipment, 
and costs associated with having two separate certified inspection 
laboratories inspect and certify both the material and the 
configuration of the final product.  Bottomline - This is more 
involved than making a phone call and making some metal chips.  I 
trust that you all understand that.  As far as the actual material 
used in the TOBY-TAB's, I selected a nickle-based superalloy called 
Inconel 718 because it is one of the strongest, stiffest, and most 
corrosion resistant materials around.  There is none better that is 
available to mere humans.  I believe that there is a long series of 
articles in the tech files section entitled "Trailing Arm Bolt 
Engineering" or something similar for those who are brave enough to 
dive into them again. For those of you who have a set of these bolts - 
congratulations.  For those who didn't want to buy a set for whatever 
reason - good luck.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1   


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "gr8old1 <Gr8old1_at_dml_a...>" 
<Gr8old1_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hopefully, the design drawings and specifications are well 
> documented, archived, and such. For those of us, like myself, who 
> have yet to get their hands on a Delorean, it would be nice to know 
> that we could have the option of being able to remake these crucial 
> pieces when we finally have something to put them on! even if it's a 
> high cost to ourselves, safety is a must.
> 
> BTW, i searched the archives, but can't find the posting about the 
> material that was used. What was it?





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 04:27:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: oozing windshield sealant

If the windshield is leaking across the top make sure that the 2 small 
wire clips are still holding the bottom edge of the windscreen in 
place. If the windscreen has slipped over them and is sliding down it 
will open the joint across the top which is bad enough but the glass 
will eventually crack when it hits the plastic grill on the bottom. 
Sealing the top is only a very temporary fix. Before you crack the 
windscreen have it removed and reseated making sure that the 2 lower 
clips are properly supporting the bottom edge so it can not slide. If 
it has slid over the clips look closley across the bottom and you will 
see them under the bottom edge of the glass, they may not be easy to 
find but they are there. The are black formed wire with a hook in them 
to keep the bottom from moving.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



> I have successfully removed, and reinstalled my DeLorean's 
windshield.
> It was not easy.  I think the only reason I pulled it off, is 
because 
> I've broken windshields on previous attempts on other cars, and have 
> learned from my mistakes.  Also, a number of little unrelated 
> problems popped up that might have to be ignored by a professional, 
> who's after all doing it for the money, and is under a time budget. 
 
> No offense intended.
> 

[long duplicate quote trimmed by moderator]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 23:54:07 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Toby TABS

John, You can go to my web site under hardware and see my TAB and bent TAB.  
Basically they keep your rear wheel from going back when you go forward.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

<< Heres what may sound like a stupid questiong but...
 What's the trailing arm bolt? And whats it do?
 John >>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 07:48:03 -0000
From: "netym89 <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: When will Hollywood decide on Delorean movie?

I checked the archives and nothing listed for this. I am still quite 
surprised why the Delorean story has still not been made into a 
movie. We've seen Jeff Bridges play Tucker who designed the Tucker 
Torpedo. Great movie!!! When is Delorean going to hit the 
silverscreen?? Anybody?? We'd love an update!!
John E. 10250





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 07:50:59 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Headlights

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "M. P. Olans <mpolans_at_dml_c...>" <
mpolans_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Well,
>      I burned out a headlight last night.  Since I am not nearly ready
> to tackle my headlight conversion I'm forced to replace it.  However I
> was thinking about replacing them with the "diamond" type housings and
> Xenon bulbs that you can find on ebay.
<SNIP>

I've never used the H4 conversion kits on any vehicle, so I don't have any 
useful info on them from firsthand experience. However, I can offer you this bit 
of advice. If a true HID system is what you really want for your car, then don't 
bother compromising with anything else. Just stick to you guns, stay focused, 
and keep saving up. The Hella setup is quite interesting, and even perked up 
my ears too. But _at_dml_ an estimate of $80, that's almost a fifth of the price for a full 
HID conversion kit from Sylvania ($499).

In the mean time, just replace the sealed beams with an improved set such as 
either Cool Blues, or the new Silver Star sealed beams. I run a full set of CB's, 
and the cost was around $12 a bulb. The only reason that I want to switch to 
HID is so I don't have to bend my facia to service my headlights as much. 
Otherwise, I'm very content with the new Sylvanias. The regular sealed beams 
mentioned previously are just as powerfull as most H4 conversions in both 
wattage, and color temperatures.

Automotive lighting technology has certainly come along way in the past 20+ 
years. Along with relay upgrades, and other tid bits, I don't know why new 
headlamps arn't considered more of a priority. The next time you see either a 
show, or a movie from the 80's, take a look at the lights on the car, and you'll 
see the differance right away.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 04:45:07 EST
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?

Moderator:  This stiffening capacitor issue is dedicated to the DeLorean.

Martin, Gary & Elvis:

If you all try to understand what I wrote, it is dedicated to the DeLorean 
motorcar and you will understand why I wrote it the way I did.  

We all know the factory fitted DeLorean alternators are notorious with their 
inadequacies to supply the amps that is need.  There are many alternator 
upgrades that is available from the present DeLorean vendors which exceeds 
the DeLorean's demand, but not with the excessive demands of the many added 
on components, especially the amplifier with a stiffening capacitor.

Elvis, with all the material from the different catalogs the manufacturers 
offers and the different Internet sites... I do believe I understand what a 
stiffening capacitor is and why and how it works and etc ......  There are 
some "caps" that do put such a demand on an alternator and there is a site 
that do show the reasons why, so I will not go into details.

I believe Gary got the point right, as he puts it "the use or the misused of 
stiffening capacitors" and half of the misuse is due to the salesman or the 
material printed pressing the issue *you must have it....*

Martin, BTW, the term STIFFENING CAPACITOR is used, and is STILL being used 
in the NYC/USA area.  FYI ... under "Google" and you will see many sites 
using this "term."  Please check them out.  ;-)

Guys, I have tried many different "stiffening capacitors" in my DeLorean only 
to find the them to soak up much of the alternator's current, when "ALL" of 
the electrical is on in the DeLorean under many daily driving conditions.  In 
the last three years, I have destroyed three alternators.  Two 110 amps from 
Rob and I need more amps, so I had to ordered a 150 amp from John Hervey only 
to return it for a 140 amp which works better at the lower RPMs.  Everyone, 
please understand that there is nothing wrong with Rob's or John Hervey's 
units, for they do work and have severed me well.  So, I am doing something 
wrong?  I don't think so.  My DeLorean with all the other added on electrical 
components along my driving conditions have worked all the alternators to an 
early demise.  All the different stiffening capacitors that I tried didn't 
help relieve the alternator and did very little improvement for the amplifier 
and the sound....  Different stiffening capacitors and amplifiers in 
combination do produce a different sound quality as well as a different 
demand from the DeLorean's electrical system.

Despite all the "science" data that the many of you had brought forth, there 
is still the task to get all the different science data and all the various 
equipment in combinations to work together properly and to sound good in a 
motorcar is an "art" -- especially in the DeLorean.  

I have heard many different audio systems in a DeLorean and many of them do 
not spark an interest in me.  Many of these system have the wrong sound or 
the "younger people" sound.  That type of sound is classified as "sound 
re-enforcement," which is usually excessively loud, boomy, sizzling and 
undefined.  Since I am over 50 years old and what I am interested in is 
"sound reproduction."  This type of sound should be clean, adequately loud, 
with good harmonics, timbre, placement, detail and size.  As a high end 
audiophile and manufacturer taught me, a cello on a good system should sound 
like a cello and not a viola or a bass.  A piano should sound like a piano 
and the audio system should be able to produce the piano's fortissimo and not 
just the psycho acoustic like many system do. 

Recently, I have removed the stiffening capacitor since I installed my new 
high power amplifier, a real 120 RMS per channel into 4 channels.  The new 
amplifier is very well engineered and made, therefore a stiffening capacitor 
is not necessary.  Since the removal of the stiffening capacitor the 
alternator is working "correctly" and the sound is NOT suffering nor is there 
a lost of the bass at the lower RPM, when the alternator is not charging at 
full output. 

In closing, purchasing equipment is not a problem, but removing and 
installing them is.  It is time and energy consuming, beside adding more 
alteration and destruction to the DeLorean.  In the almost seven years and 
the 87,000 miles I have put on it with many of the trips to be over 14 hours 
of straight driving, I wanted my sound to be as good as possible and I have 
changed my audio system four times in the quest to achieving this goal. I 
think I am getting close to it with the recent released equipment of the 
newer technology.  Changing systems means head, amplifiers, CD Changer and 
etc.  Presently, I have my eyes on Denon DCT-Z1 CD head unit and the DCH-470 
CD changer, which are the rave of the hi-end auto audio world and the 
"silver" finish matches our DeLorean perfectly if some of you are interested, 
not cheap in price.

<A HREF="http://www.redmountainaudio.com/default.asp?id=35">http://www.redmountainaudio.com/default.asp?id=35</A>

If anyone can add their input from experiences, I am open to constructive 
criticisms and I would like to learn from your experiences.  If you have a 
system in your DeLorean that you want to show, please let me know.  If you 
are in the neighborhood, you are welcomed to audition my system too.  Rob and 
a fellow DeLorean owner who I had giving a ride back from PJ Grady to the NYC 
bus terminal, to take a bus back to Pennsylvania, had auditioned my system 
several weeks ago and they both liked it.

Seeing is believing and hearing it should be a reality.  

Martin, Gary & Elvis, again, thank you for your input......  :-)

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:35:24 EST
From: lhemb_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Rob Grady's Zilla Products

I am an old subscriber to this list who just came back on line after being 
off it for about a year. My DeLorean in number 5830 and his name is "Harvey". 
We have had him for fourteen years. In recent years it seems like we no more 
than get one problem fixed and another one crops up. It has been really 
frustrating, but Harvey is a member of the family, so we keep him going.

One of Harvey's consistent trouble spots has been the cool fan relay circuit. 
Harvey and I would be interested in any feedback out there about Rob Grady's 
Zilla Products, especially the one for the cool fan circuit.

Brian McCabe & Harvey (5830)
Santa Rosa Beach, Florida


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:41:53 -0500
From: "mgutkowski_at_dml_cix.co.uk" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?

Moderator: I'm keeping this short as a last word, the supplied link should
help with any unanswered questions for those who are still awake.

To the original poster: Don't be afraid to try using the chassis for ground.

I have been introduced to the term "stiffening capacitor" and in taking
Kayo's advice, found this artcle through Google. Good reading for those who
want to learn more (and note the statement about a capacitor being an
alternative to a bigger alternator):

http://www.caraudiomag.com/specialfeatures/0207cae_gotjuice/

Martin
#1456
#4426



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 15:54:53 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Stuck Throttle Cable.

This morning on my way to work. I started having a problem with my 
gas pedal only wanting to go down half way. I tapped the pedal a bit, 
and it finally came loose. Then suddenly while taking off from a stop 
light, my gas pedal hit the floor, and wouldn't come back up. I hit 
the clutch, and my RPM's redlined. I tapped the pedal, got no 
response, so I killed the engine, and pulled over to stop. Inspecting 
the throttle spool, I discovered that the microswitch washer had come 
loose, and one side was totally disconnected. This allowed the waser 
to spin around, and wedged my throttle spool in place. Luckily, the 
other screw was loose enough that I was able to unbolt the 
microswitch, remove it, and continue on my way to work without 
incident.

I don't normaly like posting every little thing that happens to my 
car (both good or bad), but I did want to pass this info along as an 
FYI to make sure that the screws are tight the next time anyone needs 
to remove their intake.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 09:05:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Question.

The twin tubo set-up requires moving the alternator to
the top of the engine.  Why not do the same?

Dick Ryan


> That brings up an interesting point. On both
> alternators that I've 
> had, I will end up with a low-voltage problem
> whenever I drive thru 
> puddles of water. I was also reading up on another
> site about the PRV 
> in the Eagle Premier, and it mentioned that the
> alternator on the 
> bottom of the motor is not an ideal place to be
> mounted. It also went 
> on to speak about installing a splash sheild, or
> having one 
> fabricated. Does anyone have an imput onto this?
> Specificly if on was 
> ever made available for the Volvo 260, or 760 V6
> that could be 
> installed onto the DeLorean? Runoff water here is
> pretty groady, and 
> my last alternator was caked on with road grime. So
> I'd like to 
> extend the life of this one far beyond it's
> warranty.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:27:44 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Ds in France

Hello
You live in France and own a Delorean, or even know one ;please 
contact me.
Thanks
Bonjour
Si vous possedez une Delorean, ou que vous en connaissez une dans 
notre pays, contactez moi afin de recenser tous les exemplaires , 
imatriculÚs ou non.
Merci et a bientot
Raphael




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 17:53:44 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: new V6

You can see in the files section a pic of the new PSA V6.You can t 
call it a PRV since it's actually designed by Renault and 
Nissan...and I'm not sure the bell housing pattern is the same as 
the "old" PRV. But if you're looking for a performance swap while 
keeping your car "original",powerful PRVs equipped French cars like 
the Renault Alpine ( turbo )or the Venturi ( single or twin turbo ).
Latest versions of this engines were 4cams 24valves, 300hp.If you 
can read French, you can find such engines for sale in the ad 
section of an Alpine related 
site :http://alpinerenault.free.fr/annonces/frannalpinepiecevente.php
In response to John,The PRV equipped the Peugeot 604.I was told this 
car was sold on the US market in late 70s/early80s..... Did anyone 
ever saw one ????
Raphael




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 18:56:32 -0000
From: "the_great_gazoo.rm <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>" <delorean_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: A Few Quickies ... Clutch, Brakes, Springs and Lights

Well... spring is around the corner (in my mind) and I am getting 
ready to take my baby out of storage. Then comes the prep work of 
fixing up all that stuff you say you will next season!

At the top of my list is the clutch.. she is pooched.. i can try to 
move the car starting in 5th without stalling, and she slips in every 
gear.... almost undrivable!   Now the question, which clutch kit 
should i look into? What experiences have other owners had? I noticed 
the major parts dealers having either OEM or Centrefoce.   Upon 
further investigation I noticed centerforce has 2 models for the D. 
Single Grip and Double Grip, since the stock engine is not all that 
powerful, i have ruled out the dual grip.   But what is better? the 
OEM clutch kit or the Centerfoce clutch kit or something else all 
together?   As well, is the only way to tell if you need a new 
flywheel is inspection upon removing it?


The brakes... mine have lots of pad left, but squeal like a truck 
whenever I use them... ALL THE TIME! its very embarassing, and would 
like any suggestions to fixing this,... so far I have figured the 
best way is probably replacing them, but then I worry about what kind 
of pads I should use... I see carbon fibre ones on ebay, but I am not 
sure what would be best! Carbon fibre, semi-metallic, full metallic? 
organic? SUGGESTIONs!? As well, I was given the option to cross drill 
my rotors on the car from a local shop, would this help, not only 
with the squealing but also with the brake dust problem on the rear 
wheels especially?

As for the springs,... My car is still at the factory height and sits 
nose high... i saw the 2 major spring kits, the one from Housten and 
Grady's... does the kit from Housten come with ONLY the springs, and 
Grady's comes with springs AND shocks??? Which ones make the car look 
better? I would like to improve the way the suspension handles and 
also at the same time have the car sit lower to make it appear more 
aggressive!  I dont want it to look stupidly low, I would just want 
to have it be as low as possible without sacraficing anything!


The last question is about the interior lights... I know that they 
are supposed to dim and then turn off when you close the door, mine 
are kind of screwy... they will turn off right away sometimes, or 
other times stay on, other times they dim, Then sometime they turn 
off and turn on while driving! I figure the white relay in the back 
of the passenger seat section is shot.  I remember reading here 
before somebody that offered a COMPLETELY new redone kit to replace 
the factory light switches? I searched the archives with no luck... 
anybody?  

As well the door ajar light in the instrument cluster stays on ALL 
THE TIME!

I appreciate all the suggestions, opinions and views i can get !

So thank you in advance for all your help!

If you have anything to suggest, please feel free to email me 
privately off the list at ken_at_dml_odoc.ca 

-Ken
5541

Be sure to visit the Ontario DeLorean Owners Club at www.odoc.ca




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 15:22:02 -0500
From: RJRavalli_at_dml_AOL.com
Subject: Top Ten Car Movies

From MSN.com:

"3. Back to the Future (1985)
Pedal to the Metal Plot: '80s teen Marty McFly (Michael J. Fox) travels back to the '50s, where he meets his parents (and his mom makes a pass at him--ewwwww.).
Under the Hood: Marty speeds down the space-time continuum in a gull-winged, stainless steel 1981 Delorean.
Special Options: Doc Brown (Christopher Lloyd) outfits his Delorean with a plutonium-powered Flux Capacitor, which requires 1.21 gigawatts of electricity for time travel. All the Delorean had to do what hit 88 mph, which, given its reliability record, was hit or miss."


Despite the little jab at the end, at least BTTF ranks in the top 3.

Richard






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/