From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1350
Date: Monday, January 20, 2003 2:56 AM

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There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Alternator Question.
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

2. Barret-Jackson Auction
From: "thebrave65 <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay/Part car pirates you suc&!
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

4. Fuel Tank
From: "Charlie <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: Auto Trans service
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

6. Windshield piller repair
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>

7. Re: A Few Quickies .. and Lights
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

8. Re: Ds in France
From: "saalexander2000 <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay/Part car pirates you suc&!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. Re: Stainless Steel Exhaust Resonance
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: new V6 and PRV variants
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Fuel Tank
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Fuel Tank
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

14. Re: Auto Trans service
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Barret-Jackson Auction
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Auto Trans service
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Barret-Jackson Auction
From: illyana delorean <illyana_at_dml_mindspring.com>

18. Re: Fuel Tank
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. Re: LED Panels
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. http://www.88-mph.com
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

21. Re: Barret-Jackson Auction
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 22:17:04 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Alternator Question.

Not true.  Automakers are VERY concerned with the lifespan of the
parts they use, particularly within the warranty period.  Failures
during warranty are a direct hit to profitability.  I'd believe 18
months for a rebuild or replacement part, but not OEM.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:dherv10_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2003 7:10 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Alternator Question.


Keeping in mind that most auto makers aren't concerned about parts lasting
to
long.




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 05:22:45 -0000
From: "thebrave65 <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>" <johnnysher1_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Barret-Jackson Auction

Does anybody know the info on the Delorean that went up for auction 
this weekend in Scottsdale, AZ?  I was planning to attend, but 
decided my hatred for crowds was too much to attend.  I am interested 
in finding out what this auto sold for.

Johnny - no vin yet




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 05:23:51 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay/Part car pirates you suc&!

I'm going to back Todd 110% on this one.

The term "parts car" is one that is used here recklessly, far too often without 
giving any real thought to what it means. The biggest things that everyone 
seems to take for granted are both the fiberglass underbody, and the stainless 
steel panels. So, when was the last time anyone here had to weld a floor 
panel, or trunk bottom, or rebuld the unibody pieces on their cars? That's what 
I thought, NEVER! Worst case senario, is a toasted chassis and suspension. 
Whoopty firckin doo! Welding doesn't have to be involved, because you can 
bolt the entire car back together! Suspension shouldn't be any different than 
any other car, and the chassis only bolts back together with 12 bolts. 
OOOOH!, hold me back on that one! A few interior components (not really that 
expensive if you decide to customize the inside), some fuel system work 
(which in comparison to carbs, manifolds etc, isn't that much more expensive, 
plus you can easily drop and clean the tank) and bam! Car back on the road! 
When grading on a curve, car restoration of a DeLorean is almost 
comparative to a Snap-Tite model!

Now let's talk about parts supply. We have an expansive and plentiful amount 
of parts available to us. You name it, and it's only a phone call, an e-mail or an 
online SSL order form away! What's rare is usually reproduced, and what 
components warrant improvements have them done.

So, with an abundant supply, and a type of vehicle that I'd be willing to say is 
atleast 70% rustproof, what in the hell do we need parts cars for? There is 
absolutely no justification. Todd is totally correct in saying profit is the 
motivation. And that is the wrong type of motivation to have when it comes to 
this hobby within this particular marquee. If you want a car that's ready to go, 
save up and buy the ones that fit that qualification. Otherwise, leave the 
basket cases, and the project cars to those of us who want to restore them.

My car was in only slightly better condition than this one in as it had the fuel 
system work complete, and the rear lenses were faded. But it was also a 
double-threat. It was owned by the typical "No I won't sell it, 'cause I'm gonna 
fix it" types. Yeah, right. So when the son (and I say son because the orignial 
purchaser/owner is long dead) did decide to fix it, he decided to save a buck 
and send the car to every hole-in-the-wall garage possible. Even when my 
Clutch M/C was repaired, it was "booger-welded"!  It was finally sent to a 
mechanic that could tune the motor, and got it running. They were fed-up with 
the car, and the mechanic wanted it off his property. They just wanted to sell 
the car, and didn't care what happened to it. And then I came along, and the 
rest is history. To this day, I can still remember first seeing her sitting behind 
the fence, and the guy opening the gate. Four flat tires, a scorched interior, 12 
years of grime from just sitting, and that musty smell like a crypt from being 
sealed up so long. Two things happened that day. I finally found MY 
DeLorean, and I saved one by keeping it on the road.

The moral of the story? With the exception of an ultra-severe wreck, every 
DeLorean out there is a canidate for restoration. They all have owners, but 
they haven't yet picked up their cars. ;) That is the best philosophy to have. 
And in the end, I am thankful for many things about my car. The second most 
being that some uncaring vulture didn't get to my car before I did. I cringe at 
the thought that someone (including those here on the DML that share this 
"parts car" mentality) didn't get to my car first, and dismantle it simply for profit. 
Or because they were too damn lazy and/or inept to restore it themselves!

In other words, please leave these types of cars to those of us here that are 
willing to restore them, and not just "rape" them as has so appropriately said!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I'm disagreeing yet again on the parts car comment.
> This car could be a really nice project for someone.
> It's been abused and abandoned and it needs a little
> help but it does not deserved to be raped in the name
> of "parts car" I'd like one person to tell me what a
> "perfect" Delorean is, because I've seen several daily
> drivers which need alot of work. Prices seem to be all
> over the board but you find a car like this and
> everyone screams "parts car" I think there just
> screaming "PROFIT!" I bought my car because I love the
> DeLorean and I wanted to save a car. I think different
> then most, but when I bought my car I wasn't thinking
> about reselling it ever. And I don't plan on it
> either. The term "parts cars" seems to fly around with
> no effort. One day everyone is going to turn around
> and there will not be many of these cars left. There
> are plently of new parts availabe for restorations, I
> know I've done the research and I'm involved in it. If
> your in the DeLorean comunity to make a profit then
> you don't deserve to own one of these cars. Thats my
> opion. I'm entiled to it. End of disscution.
> 
> Todd
> Vin 5386

[moderator snip]



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 08:33:56 -0000
From: "Charlie <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank

Hello out there!

   I just have a queston??

   For a DMC which has sat for one year or less, if the fuel is 
sitting in that car of course u have to change the gas but what kind 
of damage could be done to the tank itself from fuel sitting in 
there?? Esp since its plastic?

      Thanx!




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 00:35:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans service

Hi everyone,
I've just drained out my auto transmission fluid and
was wondering what else I should do to give the
transmission a proper service.Should I remove the pan
and inspect for any metal?When I bought my car the
transmission was full of metal so I am very wary of
that.Does the filter need replacing as well?I have no
idea when it was last replaced.
I'm not sure where to refill the transmission.In the
manual it says use the refill tube.I'm assuming that
is the same tube the fluid dipstick is in?
Also, when jacking up the car where is the best place
to put the stands under the car.Should I just put them
under the frame or on the jacking points?
Thanks!
Andrew 
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.

--- Matthew David <DMC5524_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Just saw this advertisement in the January 2003
> Issue of 'Circle Track and 
> Racing Technology' -
> 
> SEX, LIES & SUPERSPEEDWAYS
> 
> The abridged audio version of Smokey's
> critically-acclaimed autobiography 
> gives you the stories as only he could tell them.
> And best of all, it's read 
> by another automotive genius - John DeLorean.
> 
> 
> - Thought someone in the group would find this
> interesting. For more info go 
> to www.smokeyyunick.com .



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 01:52:33 -0800
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_seagullsolutions.net>
Subject: Windshield piller repair

I would like some advice as to the best way to take out the warp that occurs
on the piller molding next to the inside of the windshield.  It is the upper
most edge on the big flat side that has pulled out on both sides.  I have
seen the phenominon on other cars but never seen a writeup on the repair.  I
do not have a broken windshield and so am hesitent to pull it just for this.
It is however not obvious how one would ever get adhesive behind it and
pulling it might to more harm than good.

Also I seem to remember a recomendation for getting some of the
discoloration out of the vinyl (grey).  I am currrently concidering
recolorizing the entire interior as a way to get it fresh feeling again.  I
certainly will be filling and painting the seats and it would not be that
much more to do all the vinyl as well.

Has any one ever tried successfully to polish out the little scratches that
the "coin" windows sometimes get.  It might be faster and easier than
replacing the window, however I would probably need to realign the felt(as I
remember) so it doesn't happen again.  I am in the middle of a major
rebuild.  Sorry about all the questions, and thanks in advance for any help
offered.

Don Ekhoff
Vin 5014





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:58:18 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: A Few Quickies .. and Lights

Robert,
what you're saying about the little white light delay module isn't really
correct.
The little cap inside this tiny module won't keep the ligthts on for more
than 1/10 second !

No, the cap drives a Transistor which itself keeps the current flowing
through the lamps.
As soon as the light shuts off, the cap is recharged within some milli
seconds !

What I have seen so far in this module is, that it is designed really poor.
An extra +12V wire would be necessary to make it work like it should.
The problem is (experienced on my car and some different others), that the
cap is discharged as soon as you open a door. Now open and close the door
rapidly - the light stays on and will dimm down. Keep the door open for more
than 10....20 seconds - the light turns off immediately !
I tried several things so far and also drew the schematic of that thing, but
it turns out that is has to work like it does.

If the light stays on dimmed, than check if both lamps are on. if only one
is on, than there may be some latching effect because there isn't flowing
enough current trough the transistor....if you wanna know more ask me and
I'm, gonna send you the schematic.

For the lights turning on and off - Robert is right, check the switches.

Viva Las Vegas...hey Robert, with all that blinking lights around you, you
really should be an expert....;-)

Elvis & 6548


<SNIP>
> The last question is about the interior lights... I know that they
> are supposed to dim and then turn off when you close the door, mine
> are kind of screwy... they will turn off right away sometimes, or
> other times stay on, other times they dim, Then sometime they turn
> off and turn on while driving! I figure the white relay in the back
> of the passenger seat section is shot....As well the door ajar light in
the
instrument cluster stays on ALL THE TIME!


The delay circuit is controlled by a capacitor, NOT a timer. So you can open
and close the door, and the lights will dim. This is becaus they are now
being
powered by the reserve power in the capacitor, not the battery. Once the
capacitor is drained, they turn off. Open and close the door again, and
you'll
see that they shut off right away. That's because the capacitor hasn't yet
had a
chance to charge back up fully. As an example, turn off one light, and
you'll
see the delay time for the remaining light has been extended.

As for the door light being stuck on, wait until after you install the
extensions
onto the striker switches. If the condition still happens, replace the fuse,
and
clean the contacts on fuse #12. If the fuse is missing, then it will cause
the
Door Ajar light to stay constantly on. Perhaps you have a poor/corroded
connection.

Hope this all helps you in getting off to a good start!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:59:13 -0000
From: "saalexander2000 <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <stuartalexander_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ds in France

Hi,

There's a guy in France with a D on the DOC UK website:

http://www.delorean.co.uk/club_cars.html

Don't have any details about him though - you could try asking the 
club.

I drove my D to the South of France last summer from the UK and came 
back through Paris.  It caused quite a stir everywhere we went!

Hope this helps,

Stuart

#16686





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:59:25 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay/Part car pirates you suc&!

I agree wholeheartedly. There's now a steady trickle of "project" cars coming over to the
UK which are considered beyond economic repair in the US.

Your loss is our gain!

Martin
#1458 (arrived in 2001 as a non-runner, been on the road for over a year and featured at
the NEC show last November)
#4426 (arrived last November, engine rebuild in progress)

Vin 5386 wrote:

> I'm disagreeing yet again on the parts car comment.
> This car could be a really nice project for someone.
> It's been abused and abandoned and it needs a little
> help but it does not deserved to be raped in the name
> of "parts car"




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:59:28 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Exhaust Resonance

Hi Kayo

> My audio system sounds great when the engine is not running.  Once the engine
> is running, I have to crank up the volume several notches to override the
> cabin's resonance as the O.E.M. exhaust's resonance do interfere with the
> cabin's acoustic environment.  I am anticipating the idea of the present
> audio sound quality being compromise by the new stainless steel exhaust
> system.  Since the new stainless steel system is louder and it has a
> different tone then the O.E.M. system, is the noise level, as in the decibels
> with the resonance generated by this system much more louder then the average
> O.E.M. exhaust system???

First off, here's some "credentials" on which I base my reply:

I've heard both the "medium" system and the "loud" system produced by stainless exhaust,
though not when driving. The "quiet" one is designed to match the OEM exhaust note. My
friend Rich owns a non-catted Island twin turbo which is a bit loud IMO. Another friend,
Chris Hawes has a pair of "free-flowing" silencers which attach to the stock manifolds by
a pair of crossover pipes and run the length of the engine bay from front to back. These
are clearly designed to produce a deep bass note to the exhaust. My own car with OEM
system suffered from severe road and engine noise when I first got it running. Leaky
manifold gaskets didn't help and neither did the accumulator access hole to the rear of
the centre console which only some cars posess.

On my own car, I have now fixed the manifold gaskets, plugged the accumulator access hole
and replaced the cat with Ed Uding's bypass pipe (www.dmc-service.nl). I also spent $105
on a box of Dynamat Extreme from eBay and covered the interior of the rear of the car
plus centre console - if this is not something you've tried, I highly recommend it. I can
hear my engine still, but I can't *feel* it if you know what I mean. I get more noise
from my doors now than I do from the whole of the rear of the car. I'll be dismantling
the doors for a complete rebuild later this year, and will add some dynamat to them then
(it'll make a neat replacement for the original plastic liner).

As to the note of the Stainless systems - they are much more "european" in sound than the
Island kit. If you ever hear a Ferrari in full song, you'll notice it doesn't sound
particularly bass-ey except at idle, but more of a high pitched rasp when revved. The
medium system sounds like this, only clearly not quite as "big" :-) At idle it's about
the same as an OEM system. The Loud system is impractical for road use - it's basically
an echo chamber, and you need earplugs if standing behind it. It too is more raspy than
bass-ey. Chris Hawes' system is, in my opinion, awful (sorry Chris!). It encroaches on
the cabin waaay too much and it's hard to have a conversation if the revs have settled at
a certain resonant point. The Island turbos are better, though about as loud - from this
I guess that it depends on where the silencers are mounted - The Island kit's "shoe
boxes" are right at the back of the car, as is the stock back box and therefore
stainless-exhaust's system.

So in summary, the new system should be quieter at revs because it doesn't produce as
much bass. This is only my guess, but I think you'd have excellent results with the
Dynamat, as I did with the stock system. There're some photos of my Dynamatted interior
(and new rear speakers) here.

www.delorean.co.uk/1458and2727d.html

Also, for those who haven't read about it yet, the page on the free-flow stainless
exhaust system for the DeLorean is here

www.delorean.co.uk/exhaustmod.html

Best Wishes

Martin
#1458
#4426
(DOC UK)





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:59:32 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: new V6 and PRV variants

Hi All

As some of you are aware, I have "found" a guy who's an expert on PRVs. He is building my
new engine for #4426 to a stock configuration. He is seeing this as an excercise as the
engine is not a variant he has built before*. He has already agreed to then take my
(working) engine from #1458 and have a go with performance modifications, keeping the
appearance stock (something he appreciates as he himself owns a concours winning Renault
30)

I've been pestering him since before Christmas on the possibilities for "drop-in" PRV
replacements for the DeLorean - and I have a very good idea of what's possible, however I
want Darren to write it up himself with more detail. There are 3 basic possibilities

1) Keeping the engine looking stock: About 230bhp is possible (this would include using 3
litre pistons). The limiting factor is the K-Jet system and what happens at idle as the
cams get wild)

2) Non-stock EFI 3 litre even-fire engine: Over 300hp is possible, even more with the
24valve version, unfortunately the exhaust ports are in a different configuration (they
are oval), so it'll take someone to get a set of headers made by Stainless-Exhaust to
match the existing system. 300hp is still possible with the 12v version.

3) Turbocharged: Based on the Renault 25 turbo engine, a reliable 400hp is possible with
a rebuilt variant of this engine to match the build of the Alpines. This would require
extra plumbing on the air intake side to include an intercooler, and the exhaust would
have to be custom made.

What it comes down to is knowing what parts from which versions of the PRV will fit
together and what the results would be. This is what I'm trying to get Darren to sit down
and write up for everyone. Watch this space. He can and has built engines to order in all
the above configurations.

* For the record it has a DMC specific sump, Renault 30 sandwich plate and block, plus
the belts, pulleys and AC compressor are all Renault 30 except for the water pump pulley
which is DMC specific as the R30 has a fan on it. Heads, cams, crank and pistons plus
injection system are all Volvo.

Martin
#1458
#4426





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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:56:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank

Old, stale fuel won't cause any damage to the fuel tank. It will muck
it up with sludge which can be cleaned out with a lot of rags, paper
towels, and acetone. The biggest trouble with stale fuel is the mess
it makes to the internals of the fuel system. One year isn't too bad.
Just suck it ALL out, refill with fresh, high octane. Until you get
the old fuel out DO NOT run the fuel pump. That will just push the old
stuff into the entire system. Once you get the new gas in if the
system isn't too dirty the new fuel will loosen the crud and the fuel
pump will circulate it into the fuel filter. After maybe 2 or 3
tankfills it would be a good idea to change the fuel filter. The big
deal in the fuel tank is to make sure all of the parts are there,
installed correctly, and not deteriorated. If the suction hose on the
bottom of the fuel pump is mushy or split it should be replaced as it
can collapse or kink under vacuum from the pump.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Charlie <charlie_az_at_dml_h...>"
<charlie_az_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello out there!
> 
>    I just have a queston??
> 
>    For a DMC which has sat for one year or less, if the fuel is 
> sitting in that car of course u have to change the gas but what kind 
> of damage could be done to the tank itself from fuel sitting in 
> there?? Esp since its plastic?
> 
>       Thanx!




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:12:44 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank

In a message dated 1/19/03 11:15:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> Hello out there!
> 
>    I just have a queston??
> 
>    For a DMC which has sat for one year or less, if the fuel is 
> sitting in that car of course u have to change the gas but what kind 
> of damage could be done to the tank itself from fuel sitting in 
> there?? Esp since its plastic?
> 
>       Thanx!

Charlie,

if the car has only been sitting for less than a year, and you put some fuel 
stabilizer in it, i think the car would be ok.  just start it up, and go! 
make sure you check your tire pressure, oil, coolant, etc before you put it 
back into regular service.

if the car doesn't have any stabilizer in it, i suppose you could syphon the 
gas out, and refill it with fresh gas, but i don't believe it will do 
anything to the tank.  the plastic tank is better than metal - won't rust!

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 19:13:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans service

Carefully examine the debris in the pan. There should be "sludge",
shiny brass and a very little magnetic dirt. Depending on the mileage
this is very hard to assess as to how much should be there but
certainly if there is a lot of friction materiel and brass then there
is not much life left, it is like a clutch, as the friction materiel
comes off the discs there is less left. If there is a lot of magnetic
metal on the magnet then there is serious damage to the internals and
the trans won't last much longer. This is a very judgmental thing and
you need a lot of exoerience to make a guess. You can't drain very
much of the fluid out without removing and disassembling the trans. If
the fluid smells burnt, drain and refill several times. Put the fluid
between your fingers and if it feels gritty and is very dark or black
that is not good. The grit eats up the seals and the pump. The filter
can be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. 
 To refill the trans you do pour the new fluid into the dipstick tube.
Do not overfill.
 I place the jackstands under  the loops in the front and under the
lower rear shock absorber mounts in the rear. In the rear you have to
be careful not to hit the tires and that the jackstands don't move as
you lower the car onto then (the tendency is to spread them out so be
careful and only do this on paved, level ground).  



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> I've just drained out my auto transmission fluid and
> was wondering what else I should do to give the
> transmission a proper service.Should I remove the pan
> and inspect for any metal?When I bought my car the
> transmission was full of metal so I am very wary of
> that.Does the filter need replacing as well?I have no
> idea when it was last replaced.
> I'm not sure where to refill the transmission.In the
> manual it says use the refill tube.I'm assuming that
> is the same tube the fluid dipstick is in?
> Also, when jacking up the car where is the best place
> to put the stands under the car.Should I just put them
> under the frame or on the jacking points?
> Thanks!
> Andrew 
> VIN 2883
> Sydney,Aus.
> 
> --- Matthew David <DMC5524_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > Just saw this advertisement in the January 2003
> > Issue of 'Circle Track and 
> > Racing Technology' -
> > 
> > SEX, LIES & SUPERSPEEDWAYS
> > 
> > The abridged audio version of Smokey's
> > critically-acclaimed autobiography 
> > gives you the stories as only he could tell them.
> > And best of all, it's read 
> > by another automotive genius - John DeLorean.
> > 
> > 
> > - Thought someone in the group would find this
> > interesting. For more info go 
> > to www.smokeyyunick.com .




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:23:08 EST
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Barret-Jackson Auction

Didn't see the Delorean that you are refering to but I did see the cocoon 
with the Delorean in it at the venders section. They only showed it a few 
seconds but did refer to it (the cocoon) later in the broadcast.
Bruce Battles
Vin# 06569
MTRRNDO



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 14:25:49 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Auto Trans service

In a message dated 1/19/03 11:17:15 AM Central Standard Time, 
aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com writes:


> Hi everyone,
> I've just drained out my auto transmission fluid and
> was wondering what else I should do to give the
> transmission a proper service.Should I remove the pan
> and inspect for any metal?When I bought my car the
> transmission was full of metal so I am very wary of
> that.Does the filter need replacing as well?I have no
> idea when it was last replaced.
> I'm not sure where to refill the transmission.In the
> manual it says use the refill tube.I'm assuming that
> is the same tube the fluid dipstick is in?
> Also, when jacking up the car where is the best place
> to put the stands under the car.Should I just put them
> under the frame or on the jacking points?
> Thanks!
> Andrew 
> VIN 2883
> Sydney,Aus.
> 

Andrew,

for the auto trans, make sure you check the fluid level for proper fill, as 
per the owner's manual.  if the fluid seems a little brown-looking or has a 
burnt odor, it should probably be changed.  also be sure to check the final 
drive level as well - checkable thru a check plug on the side of trans - 
again, check the owner's manual/shop manual for proper procedures/exact 
location.  if your transmission pan seems to be leaking, you will need to 
replace the filter and gasket.  not too difficult, i think all the parts are 
now available?

the filter doesn't need to be changed 'just to change it' - it's more like a 
bug screen that keeps gasket material, etc from going into the gears.  but 
when you drop the pan, you might as well replace the filter anyway.  

when you top off the fluid, make sure you only add a little bit at a time.  
if it is below the add/cold line, add 1 pint/ 1/2 qt dexron 3 rated auto 
trans fluid.  put your foot on the brakes and shift thru all the gears 
waiting for 15 seconds in each one.  put it back in park (or do you check in 
neutral? park i think - i have a manual trans).  now check your fluid level 
again. continue until it is in the middle of the hot/full and cold/add lines. 
 as for the final drive, add fluid thru the check plug until it is within 1/4 
inch of the hole.  check the shop manual to see if the vehicle has to be 
running or not (some cars do).    

when i lift my car up in the garage (rear end) i take a floor jack with a 
piece of wood on the cup and lift up by the engine cradle making sure it is 
back far enough to not be lifting on sheet metal.  once i have the car up, i 
take jack stands and put them on either side of the jack (with wood on again) 
and then slowly lower the jack.  the 'jack points' refer to emergency 
side-of-the-road jack points or for 4-pt shop lifts.  when you lift from 
these locations, be careful opening and closing your doors - the underbody 
flexes a little and you might damage the doors if you slam them closed!  the 
wood is so you don't crack the epoxy on the frame (i learned that lesson 
already).

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 12:40:16 -0700
From: illyana delorean <illyana_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Barret-Jackson Auction

I was up at Barrett-Jackson and there were actually two Deloreans 
there. The one with 57 miles went for $25, while the other D went for 
$29 (I have no idea why it got more $$ than the low-mileage one. The 
low-mileage one was a 5-speed, while the other one was an automatic - 
does this have anything to do with the amount of money the car 
fetched?).

If you go here, you can check out both of the cars: 
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/auctionresults/common/salesresults.asp?auctionid=45&page=5

I took some photos of the low-mileage car. Here are the links:

http://www.homepage.mac.com/illyanadmc/.Pictures/DMC.JPG
http://www.homepage.mac.com/illyanadmc/.Pictures/DMCa.JPG

illyana


>Does anybody know the info on the Delorean that went up for auction
>this weekend in Scottsdale, AZ?  I was planning to attend, but
>decided my hatred for crowds was too much to attend.  I am interested
>in finding out what this auto sold for.
>
>Johnny - no vin yet
>

-- 
S1.3 MIL+++ RWG++# FRI++ CBG++ P&S-- f++/+++ n- $++++ 9F13, 1F22, 
2F13, 3F02, 3F05, 4F01, 4F08, 4F11, 4F19 F1980

HPGCv1
a22 e+ x+* Rm Ri HP4 S+++ Mo++ HG+/VK++ HaP+/SS+++& FGW++ DM++& VC-- 
GG-- CD+ VK++ SS+++& PT--- AF-- MM++ RL++ O+m FAo F- Sl FHo SfD

"What's the point in having a Honda if you can't show it off?" - 
Superintendent Chalmers

visit my livejournal! http://www.livejournal.com/users/illyanadmc



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:02:11 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank

None at all. Just give it a good soak and wash out with household cleaning products if
there's any crap in it, otherwise just drain and refill.

Martin
#1458
#4426

"Charlie " wrote:

>    For a DMC which has sat for one year or less, if the fuel is
> sitting in that car of course u have to change the gas but what kind
> of damage could be done to the tank itself from fuel sitting in
> there?? Esp since its plastic?




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:12:39 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: LED Panels

Hi Toby

Not much.... but you don't need to know much with LEDs - just make sure to connect them
the right way round and a standard diode drops 0.7v across it, so connect up 18 of them
in series to make 12v. Also try to get some that aren't too directional. Most will state
a "viewing angle".

We got some sponsorship for the robot from a company called Marl who make super bright
LED arrays - about 100 times brighter than a standard LED, and rated at 12 (or in our
case 24) volts. www.marl.co.uk

Martin
#1458
#4426

"Toby Peterson " wrote:

>  Darryl tells me that brighter
> tailights for Winged1 should be my next project.  Martin - what do you
> know about making LED panels?
>
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 15:19:33 -0500
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: http://www.88-mph.com

Group,
 
Just letting everyone know that after an exhaustive search I finally
located a host for my site. Now the instructions for adjusting the doors
on your sunstar models are once again available. I'm planning on
expanding the photos section so that everyone will be able to upload
photos of not only their models, but as well as their actual cars. I
will also be focusing on not only sunstar models, but any other scale
models for the Delorean.
 
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
Webmaster, http://www.88-mph.com
 


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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 16:51:53 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Barret-Jackson Auction

I just got an email from a friend that was at the auction.  The 1983 DeLorean 
with 57 miles sold for only $29,000, and the 81 DMC with more miles sold for 
$25 or $26k, he can't remember.

later

Dave
#6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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