From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1365
Date: Thursday, January 30, 2003 12:16 PM

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There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: battery sparks and no-start
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. DMC on TV
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

3. tune up question
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: temp gauge
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: rich fuel mixture and "clicking" noise
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. RE: battery sparks and no-start
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

7. Re: battery sparks and no-start
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Re: temp gauge
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

9. Re: battery sparks and no-start
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: battery sparks and no-start
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: tune up question
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. BTTF delorean in the movies
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: tune up question
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:23:43 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: battery sparks and no-start

In a message dated 1/29/03 11:07:38 PM Central Standard Time, dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:


> Andy, If the starter solenoid is engaged or stuck in a position that there 
> is 
> a short you will get the spark and the current draw. But if it loosens and 
> the starter drags when trying to start, even in cold weather, then it's 
> replacement time. Brushes are worn and sludge has built up inside to make 
> it 
> do that.


List,

yes i have tried jumping the car also.  no start.  it only turns over, sounds 
about 80% the usual speed during the summer.  i doubt it's dragging - the 
DeLorean starter is supposed to be pretty darn bullet proof, right?

all fuses seem to be good, all relays are tight, the F.Valve and pump work 
when i jump them.  is there anything behind the driver's seat where i could 
have knocked something loose? anything else in the relay box?

i really don't think the problem is in the engine bay - again i haven't 
touched anything back there since it ran last month.  any other ideas?

I appreciate the help!
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 07:58:31 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: DMC on TV

On TV this a.m. I saw a DMC in an ad for a used car lot here in Mobile.
 
It jumped right out because the doors were open.
 
FWIW
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:30:00 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: tune up question

I have the 6 intake manifold O-rings and the 2 air horn O-rings. Is 
this all I need to remove the intake manifold for a tune up?

Is it necessary to remove the idle speed motor or the cold start tube?

thanks,
Adam Price




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:41:00 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: temp gauge

This is going to sound wierd, but... whack the left side of the 
binnacle with your hand a couple of times. It will usually free up 
the needle. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Also, after i re installed my dash i noticed that my temp gauge 
doesn't
> work.  it just points straight down... any ideas??
> 
> Darkstar




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 00:17:26 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: rich fuel mixture and "clicking" noise

Larry, The 02 adjustment in front of the fuel distributor may need to be 
leaned down and or replace the 02 sensor.This adjustment is done when the 
engine is hot. Second, the warm up regulator my be defective and not 
regulating the pressure correctly on the fuel distributor control plunger. 
Hence: More fuel going to injectors.
It is normal for the car to be richer on fuel a little until the 02 sensor 
heats up and the Lambda system kicks in for the air / fuel adjustment.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
I really can't help you with the brakes.

<< I have two issues.  First it would be appreciated if
 someone could tell me how to adjust the fuel mixture. 
 The car runs very rich and when you first start the
 car you can't touch the gas pedal until the car warms
 up or it will die.
 
 Second, when I drive the car, the car makes a
 "clicking" noise that I can't locate. (click, click,
 click) The odd thing is that when I press the brake
 pedal half way down the clicking stops when I release
 the pedal it starts again.  I have had the brakes
 checked and the problem doesn't seem to be there. 
 Someone told me that it is a cable that runs from the
 front to the back of the car, in some sort of a
 channal, I have no idea.  Any help would be greatly
 appreciated.
  >>



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 08:44:07 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: battery sparks and no-start

Eric, Is the fuel pump running?
You might have frozen water in the tank.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:24 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] battery sparks and no-start


In a message dated 1/29/03 11:07:38 PM Central Standard Time,
dherv10_at_dml_aol.com 
writes:


> Andy, If the starter solenoid is engaged or stuck in a position that 
> there
> is 
> a short you will get the spark and the current draw. But if it loosens and

> the starter drags when trying to start, even in cold weather, then it's 
> replacement time. Brushes are worn and sludge has built up inside to make 
> it 
> do that.


List,

yes i have tried jumping the car also.  no start.  it only turns over,
sounds 
about 80% the usual speed during the summer.  i doubt it's dragging - the 
DeLorean starter is supposed to be pretty darn bullet proof, right?

all fuses seem to be good, all relays are tight, the F.Valve and pump work 
when i jump them.  is there anything behind the driver's seat where i could 
have knocked something loose? anything else in the relay box?

i really don't think the problem is in the engine bay - again i haven't 
touched anything back there since it ran last month.  any other ideas?

I appreciate the help!
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 14:52:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: battery sparks and no-start

If you see sparks when connecting the battery something is drawing 
current. Connect a 12 volt bulb in series with the battery terminal. 
If there is a draw on the battery it will light up. Now disconnect 
every fuse one at a time till the light goes out. It could also be a 
bad alternater.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> hey all,
> 
> two questions.  
> 
> 1.  i put my battery back in my car yesterday and as i tried to put 
the 
> cables on it, the terminals sparked quite a bit.  the ignition was 
off and i 
> have a courtesy light override, so i don't think there should be any 
draw to 
> cause sparking.  any ideas?  what does this mean?
> 



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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 10:45:00 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Re: temp gauge

Whacking the binnacle can definitely be effective for this purpose, but 
please note that I
caused the first little crack in my binnacle by doing this, so take it 
easy.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN # -6703


On Thursday, January 30, 2003, at 09:41  AM, Dave Swingle 
<swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:

> This is going to sound wierd, but... whack the left side of the
> binnacle with your hand a couple of times. It will usually free up
> the needle.
>
> Dave S




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 10:53:24 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: battery sparks and no-start

Andy. Think about it, By jumping or adding another battery you have almost 
doubled the current and the starter as you say still turns over at 80%. Yes, 
it will be a little slower when cold. But as I said earlier. Starter drag due 
to age and wear. This problem shows up faster when cold. When summer comes 
and things heat up 
( weather) then it will still strain the battery a little and the drag will 
somewhat go away for a while till it get worse. Then as it is has being 
pushed to the limit and the drag  will start showing up in warmer weather and 
then one day it won't turn over.

In the rebuild business, it's starters in the winter and alternators in the 
summer 
( heat). If you will notice the alternator needle rides normally higher in 
the winter than in the summer.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< yes i have tried jumping the car also.  no start.  it only turns over, 
sounds 
 about 80% the usual speed during the summer.  i doubt it's dragging - the 
 DeLorean starter is supposed to be pretty darn bullet proof, right? >>



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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 15:54:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: battery sparks and no-start

Being very cold will cause the engine to crank over slower. It should 
start though if the fuel and ignition systems are alright. Check for 
spark while cranking. If there is a large draw on the battery while 
cranking (bad Battery, or bad connections) the voltage at the engine 
ECU could go low enough so that there would be no spark. It may help 
to clean all of the "big" connections from the battery to the engine 
and frame. In these cold temperature NEVER let the battery go dead. 
When a battery is very low or dead the electolyte inside is water not 
acid and can freeze. If a battery is ever frozen then the plates 
inside buckle and short out to each other greatly reducing it's 
capacity. NEVER TRY TO JUMP START OR CHARGE A FROZEN BATTERY, IT COULD 
EXPLODE!!! If it is that cold and the car is not used regularly you 
should remove the battery from the car and keep it in a warm place.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> hey all,
> 
> two questions.  
> 
> 1.  i put my battery back in my car yesterday and as i tried to put 
the 
> cables on it, the terminals sparked quite a bit.  the ignition was 
off and i 
> have a courtesy light override, so i don't think there should be any 
draw to 
> cause sparking.  any ideas?  what does this mean?
> 
> 2.  after doing that, i tried to start my car and it wouldn't start. 
 first i 
> suspected a low battery.    



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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:08:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: tune up question

You do not have to remove the intake manifold to do a tune-up although 
if you do it does make it a lot easier. If you do remove the intake 
manifold you should also replace the "O" rings on the water 
distribution pipe and the hoses on the water pump. Check the vacuum 
hoses to the valves on the water pipe and if hard or brittle replace 
them too. You will have to get the mixture unit out of the way and to 
do that you will also need to get the idle motor off too. Now you 
should replace the "O" ring on the tube going to the idle motor too. 
You can leave the tube in and just remove the idle motor and not 
remove the intake, you can get to all of the spark plugs and fuel 
injectors without removing the intake. If you replace the ignition 
wires you will have to loosen the mixture unit to move it a little so 
you can get to the distributer. If removing the fuel injectors you 
should replace the seals and any broken or missing clips. You will 
remove the cold start valve if you are removing the intake manifold 
and you should replace the seals for that too when reassembling. If 
you still have the origional water pump this would be a good time to 
replace it too since you are already there and it is a lot of work. Be 
prepared for the inevitable broken bolt if you go in that deep.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_h...>" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> I have the 6 intake manifold O-rings and the 2 air horn O-rings. Is 
> this all I need to remove the intake manifold for a tune up?
> 
> Is it necessary to remove the idle speed motor or the cold start 
tube?
> 
> thanks,
> Adam Price




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 10:58:57 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: BTTF delorean in the movies

This is in response to the question on the Back to the Future Car on the TV 
the other night.

I wrote to Mr Barris and asked about the car in the show and I also asked a 
few more questions and this is what he wrote back.  Not sure it clears up 
anything but I tried.


Per Mr. Barris: 
Many cars were built for TV movie by various builders and the studios. The 
studio are the creator of the Future car/ we built some for the film plus 
stunts and exhibitions. Of course I respect John moreso since I worked with 
him in Pontiac and the Delorean
 
JBarris



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2003 16:20:34 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: tune up question

You don't need to remove the intake manifod to do a tune-up.

If the reason you're anticipating removing the intake is to gain 
better access to the distributor cap and wires, the easy approach is 
to remove the two allen screws that hold the fuel mixture unit to 
the intake manifold. The mixture unit is connected to the throttle 
body and W pipe with a bellows that has flex to it, so you can lift 
the back of the mixture unit sufficiently to gain access to the 
distributor cap and wires.

If you're taking the intake manifold off for other reasons, then you 
should consider taking advantage of having your engine torn apart to 
address some other service items that are otherwise difficult to get 
to. For example, if your water pump is suspect, then this would be 
the ideal opportunity.

      Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_h...>" 
<acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I have the 6 intake manifold O-rings and the 2 air horn O-rings. 
Is 
> this all I need to remove the intake manifold for a tune up?
> 
> Is it necessary to remove the idle speed motor or the cold start 
tube?
> 
> thanks,
> Adam Price




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