From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1369
Date: Monday, February 03, 2003 10:24 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: steering wheel
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Steering Wheel
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

3. Removing Steering Wheel
From: lhemb_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: SS Illusion value
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: DMC Electrical Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. No Heat
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>

7. Re: SS Illusion value
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: world of wheels Chicago
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: DMC Electrical Problem
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. AW: DMC Electrical Problem
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

11. Re: DMC Electrical Problem
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: steering wheel
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. AW: Re: Steering Wheel
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. Re: No Heat
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. master cylinder service
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: SS Illusion value
From: "treehouse2000us <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. RE: SS Illusion value
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

18. Re: Dream turned nightmare
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

19. Re: Dream turned nightmare
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: world of wheels Chicago
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

21. Re: master cylinder service
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: No Heat
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: No Heat
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: New AC Panel
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

25. Re: Steering Wheel
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 18:08:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: steering wheel

Make sure the 2 smaller screws are fully threaded into the wheel.
Tighten up the centre bolt. The wheel should "pop" loose. If it
doesn't then with the centre screw tight hit the head of the centre
screw real hard and fast with a heavy hammer. This is a very hard
thing to judge as too much force can damage the column and not enough
won't "shock" it loose. This is a last resort kind of thing, it should
come loose with just screwing the center bolt, maybe you aren't
tightening it enough? Did you remember to remove the nut and washer
holding the wheel on????  BTW the centre "pulling" screw should be a
fine thread bolt, it doesn't have to be metric but you can get a lot
more force on the wheel with a lot less effort when it is a fine thread.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> Does anybody have an idea how I could get off the steering wheel 
> without doing any damage to the complete steering column ?
> 
> I already mad a tool with 2 M6 screws and a M12 in the center to 
> pull it out, but it's not moving at all.
> 
> Any idea ? 
> 
> Elvis




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 10:06:59 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

Elvis,
        Since you have the M6 screws, use them in conjunction with a
steering wheel puller and you will be fine.  I used 1/4 inch screws and
re-threaded them.  My advice is to have them be at least 5 inches (12.5 cm)
long, otherwise the puller will not get close enough to lock in to the
wheel.

Good luck,
Matthew
VIN #'s 10365 and 16816


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 13:22:23 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: steering wheel


Does anybody have an idea how I could get off the steering wheel
without doing any damage to the complete steering column ?

I already mad a tool with 2 M6 screws and a M12 in the center to
pull it out, but it's not moving at all.

Any idea ?

Elvis




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 13:23:28 EST
From: lhemb_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Removing Steering Wheel

Elvis-

I have pulled the steering wheel on Harvey many times. It's so quick and easy 
to do that I remove the steering wheel whenever I work under the dash; it 
makes things a lot easier. I use a Sears Steering Wheel/Harmonic Balancer 
Puller that I have had for many years. It did not come with the proper screws 
to fit the DeLorean steering wheel; I bought the correct screws and it works 
great. TIP: mark the tooth position on the wheel before pulling so you can 
get it back in the proper place, so the wheel will be strait when you drive 
the car.

Brian & Harvey (5830), Florida


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 09:06:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SS Illusion value

Mark

As the owner of a bookstore and the owner of a
pristine copy of SSI, here are my thoughts.

Yes, a reissue will have an adverse effect upon the
value of SSI.  The amount of such an adverse impact
will depend upon a number of things.

If the reprint is identical to the original in every
way, (cover, dust jacket, paper quality, etc.) the
impact will probably be significant.  If however, the
reprint is of a lesser quality (as such reprints often
are), the impact will be less.

I suspect that most first editions are in the hands of
DeLorean owners and enthusiasts.  A few are owned by
collectors who simply specialize in automotive books. 
Those types of collectors will still want first
editions and, frankly, will pay even more for a
pristine copy.

I think only time will tell.  In the future I can see
listings for DeLoreans which might say "Rare first
edition of SSI included".  Heck, that might even add
$100/$200 to the value of the car.  I know that my
personal collection of DeLorean memorabilia will only
be sold with my car when I finally am no longer able
to drive it.

Dick Ryan

  

In any event, my copy is not for sale.



--- Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org> wrote:
> I have a question for those of you who know books
> fairly well.
> 
> With the new version of Stainless Steel Illusion
> coming out soon, what will
> that do to the value of the original version? I know
> the original will
> still be rare, but I've always felt that at least a
> portion of it's value
> was just due to the fact that DeLorean owners and
> fans wanted a copy for
> the information in the book. Once the new one comes
> out that value will be
> gone and only the rarity of a hard cover first
> edition will be left.
> 
> What's your opinion?
> 
> Mark N
> VIN 6820
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com



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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 17:59:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DMC Electrical Problem

You are just going to have to get the wiring diaghram and do it the
hard way, follow 1 wire at a time. You could start by taking off the
"Tee" roof and under the plate that is taped on you will find the
plugs that go to each door. The trouble could be there or maybe you
just need some bulbs and a new switch for the window!
 Most of the Delorean venders can get you the Zilla line of products
but they are all marketed out of P. J. Grady of New York. You can also
get them direct from Zilla, I think his address is deloreanparts.com
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, MPolzin_at_dml_s... wrote:
> I am in the process of putting a Delorean back on the road that I
purchased
> this past summer in some sad shape. The good news is that I am
confident she
> will be back on the road by spring. Many thanks to Bob Miller for
finding me
> a nice replacement motor for the car, which is in the process of being
> installed.
> 
> One problem I am trying to correct is an electrical problem in the
> passengers side door. The passengers side door has no power what so
ever,
> the window does not work, nor do the marker lights. All other
electronics on
> VIN #4761




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 11:56:03 -0500
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i-c.net>
Subject: No Heat

I usually never drive in the winter so I am not sure of the answer.  I turn
on the heat but all I get is cold air even after a long trip.

Any help please.

Jack
5823





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 14:00:26 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: SS Illusion value

Mark, Your correct in the assessment of what's going to happen to the book 
when the reprints come out. This happens in antiques all the time. Even 
though the original is still carries a somewhat higher value, the people that 
just want a book will go for the reprints thus taking a sizable portion of 
the market with them. There will still be people that want First print run, 
but the over all market will be gone and the value will come down. It would 
be just the same if Delorean were being remanufactured at the rate of 10,000 
per year, the junk yards would be full of them in several years and only a 
few people that want an original would hold up the value on the older ones. 
If you saw the History channel yesterday about Lamborghini and the small 
production runs they make but they are always changing them.
Just my opinion
John Hervey
 

<< I have a question for those of you who know books fairly well.
 
 With the new version of Stainless Steel Illusion coming out soon, what will
 that do to the value of the original version? I know the original will
 still be rare, but I've always felt that at least a portion of it's value
 was just due to the fact that Delorean owners and fans wanted a copy for
 the information in the book. Once the new one comes out that value will be
 gone and only the rarity of a hard cover first edition will be left.
 
 What's your opinion?
  >>



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 22:23:05 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: world of wheels Chicago

I posted a few pics of the event at 
http://www.dmcnews.com/events/chiwow2003/chiwow03.html (if this link 
breaks just link from the main page at www.dmcnews.com).

If anyone that was there has some better / people shots from the 
event send them to me directly. 

Dave S 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> i just went to the world of wheels show today and saw the D-Rex and 
Eric Weber's lowered
> delorean. 




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 14:16:48 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC Electrical Problem

Mike, 
You may have to remove the T Panels to get to the plugs and check the 
grounds, but everything in the door doesn't work on one circuit. Does your 
door Ajar light come on . If the bulb is burned out that may be the problem 
along with the switches for the door lights. It's in series with the voltage 
going to the door lights.
The door locks may have a bad circuit breaker or a bad ground.
Same in the door window motor. The one common thing would be ground.
John Hervey





<< One problem I am trying to correct is an electrical problem in the
 passengers side door. The passengers side door has no power what so ever,
 the window does not work, nor do the marker lights. All other electronics on
 the car seem to be just fine. I opened the relay box, and nothing looks
 melted or fried, however it does look all original is will need upgrading.
 Any ideas on where to start looking for this problem?
  >>



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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 21:08:34 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: DMC Electrical Problem

Mike,

first of all - check the switch for the passengers side door,
it's normal that they don't work anymore after 20 years.
Do it BEFORE you take off the T-panel.

Then check the bulbs. Can you measure any voltage there ?
Or can you measure any voltage at the switch ? (I hope you know at least a
little
bit about voltage and current, as I won't explain you how to use a
multimeter !)

The same with the window motor. My one was stuck as there was some dirt
in the drive. First check if the switch works, exchange it with the other
window
switch to test. If it's not that, then check the connector near the window
motor.
It may look ok, but the motor needs up to 20Amps to move that little window
!
Clean and measure it!

If still not working take out the whole window drive and see if it works if
you
connect it with some wires directly to the battery.
I had to push and pull mine in and out about 20 times until it started
working again.
(A half can of WD40 and some molycote lube later it works now.)
You can test the motor without the whole drive, too to make sure it is ok.
The motor itself can be replaced cheap, its a standard BOSCH. But only the
motor,
the rest is....like one of those other 2 million parts delivered by the
lowest bidder...

Elvis


One problem I am trying to correct is an electrical problem in the
passengers side door. The passengers side door has no power what so ever,
the window does not work, nor do the marker lights. All other electronics on
the car seem to be just fine. I opened the relay box, and nothing looks
melted or fried, however it does look all original is will need upgrading.
Any ideas on where to start looking for this problem?

Also, for the relays, who has the best replacement kits for this? I would
like to get this taken care of to insure I don't have a future melt down.

Thanks,
Mike Polzin
VIN #4761



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 16:04:34 EST
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC Electrical Problem

Well as far as the door problem goes, the first thing I would do is check the 
plugs on the door wiring harness.  It is located behind the carpeted rear 
panel.  To remove the panel you have to remove the cargo net and unscrew the 
clips that hold it in place.  You will see two plugs, one on each side of the 
car (from what I remember they are reversed, the lefthand plug runs the right 
door, and the righthand plug runs the left door.  Check to make sure that 
they are pluged in and getting good conection.

As far as the relay kit goes, All the parts suppliers have a good kit that 
will fit your needs.

Hope I was able to help,
Andrew
4194



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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 20:36:43 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: steering wheel

Hi Elvis

When you say your tool is not working, what has happenned - have you tightened it to the
point where the M6 threads have stripped? They will take a lot before going - far more
than should cause a problem. The M12 Bolt works best if spun up and filed to a point. See
here

http://www.dmc12.co.uk/wheel_removal.htm

You might consider a drop of penetrating oil

Martin
#1458
#4426

Elvis Nocita wrote:

> Does anybody have an idea how I could get off the steering wheel
> without doing any damage to the complete steering column ?
>
> I already mad a tool with 2 M6 screws and a M12 in the center to
> pull it out, but it's not moving at all.
>
> Any idea ?
>
> Elvis




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 21:08:32 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Steering Wheel

What ? I have to loosen the big nut first ?
Damn that's why it didn't move at all...

No, really, the thread of the M6 wasn't strong enough and I pulled the whole
thread out !
I will try to use M8 bolts and heat it up with a heat gun the next time.
Last time I also used a lead hammer which I normally use to open the large
nuts of
my other cars spoke wheels.

Thanks for the many replies

Elvis

P.S: Hey Mike, how's weather down there under your car ?


Elvis,
        Since you have the M6 screws, use them in conjunction with a
steering wheel puller and you will be fine.  I used 1/4 inch screws and
re-threaded them.  My advice is to have them be at least 5 inches (12.5 cm)
long, otherwise the puller will not get close enough to lock in to the
wheel.

Good luck,
Matthew
VIN #'s 10365 and 16816




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 20:19:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: No Heat

Make sure the heater valve isn't stuck closed and that the coolant
level is OK. Feel the hoses going to the heater by the right front
wheel, they should get hot. Of course the engine must be warmed up
which means it needs a thermostat (check to make sure it isn't missing).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> I usually never drive in the winter so I am not sure of the answer.
 I turn
> on the heat but all I get is cold air even after a long trip.
> 
> Any help please.
> 
> Jack
> 5823




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 17:58:18 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: master cylinder service

Hey all,

seems as if over the winter my master cylinder has begun to seep.  there is 
no fluid on the frame or the floor (that i can find) but the cylinder is 
glistening with what can only be brake fluid.  the fluid level is low too.  
the plastic reservior, the cylinder, and the servo unit look wet - how do i 
know if i need to replace the servo?  it's quite rusty.  

also, when installing new parts, are there any hangups?  anything i should 
watch out for or is it pretty straight-forward?  i know it will be a pain 
with bleeding the system when i'm done.

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 23:01:04 -0000
From: "treehouse2000us <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SS Illusion value

I was browsing Amazon.com a day or two ago, and they claim to have a 
new copy of Stainless Steel Illusion for under 200 bucks.  What 
really got me is a copy of the same book under the fair conditon 
bracket was like 250.  What gives?

Just for your info.

Tom Porter
  Vin: Summer 2003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Mark
> 
> As the owner of a bookstore and the owner of a
> pristine copy of SSI, here are my thoughts.
> 
> Yes, a reissue will have an adverse effect upon the
> value of SSI.  The amount of such an adverse impact
> will depend upon a number of things.
> 
> If the reprint is identical to the original in every
> way, (cover, dust jacket, paper quality, etc.) the
> impact will probably be significant.  If however, the
> reprint is of a lesser quality (as such reprints often
> are), the impact will be less.
> 
> I suspect that most first editions are in the hands of
> DeLorean owners and enthusiasts.  A few are owned by
> collectors who simply specialize in automotive books. 
> Those types of collectors will still want first
> editions and, frankly, will pay even more for a
> pristine copy.
> 
> I think only time will tell.  In the future I can see
> listings for DeLoreans which might say "Rare first
> edition of SSI included".  Heck, that might even add
> $100/$200 to the value of the car.  I know that my
> personal collection of DeLorean memorabilia will only
> be sold with my car when I finally am no longer able
> to drive it.
> 
> Dick Ryan
> 
>   
> 
> In any event, my copy is not for sale.
> 
> 
> 
> --- Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> > I have a question for those of you who know books
> > fairly well.
> > 
> > With the new version of Stainless Steel Illusion
> > coming out soon, what will
> > that do to the value of the original version? I know
> > the original will
> > still be rare, but I've always felt that at least a
> > portion of it's value
> > was just due to the fact that DeLorean owners and
> > fans wanted a copy for
> > the information in the book. Once the new one comes
> > out that value will be
> > gone and only the rarity of a hard cover first
> > edition will be left.
> > 
> > What's your opinion?
> > 
> > Mark N
> > VIN 6820
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > 
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:47:19 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: RE: SS Illusion value

A similar type of book dedicated  to one of the Rolls Royce types ( 20 HP I
think) was re-printed a good few years ago, It also was an expensive book.
( about $50)  It was identical to the original.
Now many more people have them, but the value of the originals went down
about 25%. I would expect something similar with SSI, depending of course on
the sale price of the re-print.

I don't think this is much of an issue as the sale price varies wildly in
the UK.  You can be lucky and buy an original for $150 or less, or pay some
book dealers twice that!

Chris Parnham  DOC UK

SNIP...With the new version of Stainless Steel Illusion coming out soon,
what will
that do to the value of the original version?...SNIP....
 Mark N
VIN 6820







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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 23:04:40 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Dream turned nightmare

Note: I was going to send this response directly via e-mail, but change my 
mind as I believe it's information that should be shared with all of the younger 
members of the DML who are starting out.

Pretty much everything that all of the other DML'ers here have told you is right 
on the mark. Since you are just starting out here both credit and automobile 
wise, then the DeLorean is probably not right for you just yet. One thing to 
consider is what kind of automotive knowlege do you have? Many youg 
people getting DeLoreans isn't really too uncommon. Although people who 
are getting a DeLorean as a first car with no automotive background 
experience is rare. Even I studied the workshop manual and parts guide for 
over 3 years, and still wasn't fully prepared. So if you currently own a vehicle 
that you work on, then you will gain a great amount of experience there. 
believe me, you do NOT want to learn car repair on your dream car.

Credit is going to be the next issue. While lenders will charge more interest for 
a first time buyer, they will be more willing to lend. This is what literally lays 
the foundation for the rest of your credit. If you make all of your payments on 
time (VERY critical!), then you will certainly boost your credit score in no time. 
It shows all future creditors that you were responsible right from the begining. 
In addition, I would reccomend getting a dependable, used car that will only 
have a loan for about 3-4 years. This will give you a great chance to wrap up 
the loan quickly, and to keep your payments down.

Now, if you want to raise you credit score further, wait until you have about 8-
10 months of ontime payments under your belt. Then apply for a department 
store charge card, NOT a credit card (department stores are more eager then 
credit card companies, and will probably get it). Get somthing with about 
$150-200 credit limit, and neve charge over $50 a month to it. Now you've got 
2 lines of credit that are running in your favor. Then wait until you've got about 
13+ months of ontime payments on your car, and then refinance it. When you 
get the new loan, then old one will not just be paid in full, but will show on 
your credit as an entire car loan that was paid in full, and early at that! Time 
passes quickly, and in about a year and a half, you'll have gone from no 
credit, to immaculate credit!  If you need a credit card in the mean time, just 
get a Visa Debit Card from your bank. (it will help to keep your finances in 
check) IMO, credit cards are good tools to help you out when you want to 
budget large purchases that you *need* into you finances, but they shouldn't 
be relied upon in any fashion. Aside from that, they only time I've ever been 
told that I absolutely needed a credit card was for a car rental. And if it's for a 
business related purpose such as a company trip, they'll waive the age 
restrictions, and will accept a VDC. Besides that, once your credit is 
estabished, you'll then be elegible for an unsecured card, and won't need to 
put up and cash to get it.

And if your're worried about paying for education, attend a couple of job faires 
to find out what companies are in your field of work you'd like to go into. There 
are a few corporations out there that will pay for your college degree as long 
as the degree you're going for pertain to you job and/or future with the 
company.

The best part of all this is you'll be in charge the next time you approach a 
lender. While lenders have no shortage of people applying for loans, they do 
have quite a shortage of people with excellent credit that are willing to take 
out loans from them. Someone with a great/conservative credit history, and a 
good job will quickly sway the minds of a loan officer. BUT, be pickey about 
which financial institutions you approach. Credit Unions are typicly more 
willing lenders than a regular bank. However, that doesn't make any one of 
them a sure thing. The more exclusive a CU, the more willing they are to work 
with, and help out their members. Plus it also depends upon those people that 
happen to work there at the time. Example: I'm currently a member of a CU 
here in Vegas that was at one time exclusive to certain employers, but has 
now let alomst everyone under the sun become a member. So while that's 
good for them in the sense they can generate more revenue, it's bad for me as 
a consumer as everyting from loan acceptance, to interest rates for loans and 
savings have really tumbled. So be very choosy as to who you want to go 
with. Hell, even I've been turned down for a loan. And I already had the damn 
car! I wanted a small $5K loan on my D to complete the cosmetics on it. I went 
in with the title, a price list of what I wanted done, and even an appraisal of 
$17.5K on my car that was less than 2 months old. And even I got turned 
down! And I would have already been $12.5K right side up on that loan! 
Some places just will not finance DeLoreans. And in all fairness, maybe it's 
not anything against DeLoreans, perhaps the loan officers just don't know 
anything about classic cars in general. After all, in all my dealings with loan 
offiers at banks, I've yet to find one that knows what a NADA book is. Nor have 
I ever heard of anyone who has ever applied for any kind of a classic car loan 
at all.

In the end, your best option is to either save up the cash to buy a D outright, or 
to build you credit up, and eventually qualify for a classic car loan. Although 
depending upon how frugal you are with your finances, saving up may just 
get you one alot sooner. Now granted, I was raised with a "Cash and Carry" 
outlook on finances, but I'm also a firm believer in making the system work for 
you. I purchased my first car brand-new off the lot with no drivers licence. So 
my trip to the DMV a couple of weeks later entailed me taking a driving test 
outside, and then going inside to pick up my license and my new plates. So 
just learn how things work, and you can make them work for you. Trust me! :)

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 00:01:54 -0800 (PST)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dream turned nightmare


 
Unfortunately my bank is a credit union.I really thought i might have a chance with them since they are the best bank ive seen around but this has really discouraged me.




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 18:18:28 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: world of wheels Chicago

Both the D Rex and Eric's Lowered and Custom TFT Stereo system won first 
place in their classes at World of Wheels in Chicago.

There was also a Bricklin that won.  The judges seemed to like Gull wing 
cars?


Does anyone live in Reno?  They used to have a PPG pace car in Harras 
car museum.  The car had Delorean Gull Wing doors. Does anyone know what 
happened to it. ?


BOB




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 02:30:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: master cylinder service

Call whichever vender you like to order the master cylinder and they
will explain everything you need to know over the phone. That is one
of the "free" services you get when you order parts from them. The
vender may also warn you about the possibilty of having to rebuild all
of the calipers on all 4 wheels too. The brake fluid is supposed to be
changed every 2 years so as to prevent moisture from accumulating in
it and then corroding the bores of the master cylinder and the
calipers. You might luck out and after changing the master cylinder
and bleeding and flushing the fluid the calipers won't leak or they
may be alright for a while and then start leaking. The safe way to go
is to just do the entire brake system once and for all.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hey all,
> 
> seems as if over the winter my master cylinder has begun to seep. 
there is 
> no fluid on the frame or the floor (that i can find) but the
cylinder is 
> glistening with what can only be brake fluid.  the fluid level is
low too.  
> the plastic reservior, the cylinder, and the servo unit look wet - 




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 05:38:23 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: No Heat

I had the same problem and it did turn out to be the "hot water 
valve". You can feel the two metal pipes going to the heater core 
they are easy to get to on the passenger side foot well towards the 
front of the center console area. 

The valve has a spring that rusts up and sticks. You can do a quick 
fix by messing with the spring until it pops back into place, but it 
probably wont turn off when the AC is on any more.

Adam


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> I usually never drive in the winter so I am not sure of the 
answer.  I turn
> on the heat but all I get is cold air even after a long trip.
> 
> Any help please.
> 
> Jack
> 5823




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 15:54:33 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: No Heat

Jack
The heater valve is probably not working correctly. It is a vacuum-
applied function to turn it off so a vacuum leak should leave it 
turned on and you should have heat. I have experienced two typical 
problems here. The mechanical heater door that moves air across the 
heater core is not adjusted properly - they can be tricky to adjust 
and get ALL the air to go across the core, OR, the heater valve is 
faulty. I never thought the heater in my car worked effectively. 
This last year I changed the heater valve and upon inspection of the 
old valve I discovered that the valve itself was either assembled 
incorrectly or the shaft had moved on the open-close arm; in any 
case, the valve was basically closed all the time. I have good heat 
now. I just drove it yesterday in 30 degree weather, worked fine. 
So, the heaters work if you get the stuff to work correctly.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jack Singer" <jsinger_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> I usually never drive in the winter so I am not sure of the 
answer.  I turn
> on the heat but all I get is cold air even after a long trip.
> 
> Any help please.
> 
> Jack
> 5823




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 09:55:49 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New AC Panel

I don't have a new A/C panel, but....

I did try "detailing" my A/C panel.  I painted it several coats of black (with the sticker removed and the bulb sockets masked) and then cleaned off the areas that needed to shine through.  I first used white paint on the back areas that were supposed to transmit and reflect the light forward.  I then
used insulating foam tape around the outer edge when reinstalling, since I believe the light leaking around the edges makes the dash look cheap or ill-fitting.

This has a nice effect overall, but doesn't address the melting problem.  My next step is to replace the bulbs with white LEDs.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX


Stian Birkeland wrote:

> Does anyone know if and when a new AC Panel will be manufactured?
> The lights behind the panel heat it up causing the AC decal to wrinkle.




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2003 15:19:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

I only mentioned the nut because sometimes I have done dumb things so 
I try to pass on my experience so everyone can benefit from it. Even 
experienced mechanics do stupid things. Everyone needs to realize that 
ANYONE can make a mistake or overlook the obvious.
Getting back to business, don't drill out and tap to M8. Use a thread 
insert and stay with either M6 or 1/4-20. (For these screws going into 
the metal of the wheel itself a course thread is stronger so don't tap 
to a fine thread.) The reason is if you were to strip out the M8 now 
what are you going to do? A thread insert is much stronger then the 
metal of the wheel and should be alright at M6. It is very important 
that the screws going into the wheel are long enough and are FULLY 
threaded into the wheel so they won't pull out. Again the "pulling" 
screw in the puller should be a fine thread to get the most power and 
control in removing the wheel. An excellant tip also is to mark the 
position of the wheel on the shaft so you can put it back on and it 
points straight ahead when you are done. Swipe some old red nail 
polish from your significant other, it works great, just a tiny dab on 
the wheel and the shaft. You might have to answer some odd questions 
if someone sees it in your toolbox though!!!!  There is no torque spec 
for the steering wheel nut so get it tight but not overly tight, the 
wheel is a taper fit so it doesn't really need to be "gorrilla'd" on 
tight. Heat isn't going to help you here, you can't get it hot enough 
to make a difference without damaging everything nearby. Penetrating 
lubricant won't help either because of the taper fit.  If you can't 
loosen it up the next step is to drill holes in a circular pattern 
around the shaft and then beat the wheel off destroying the steering 
wheel so get it off with the puller.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:
> What ? I have to loosen the big nut first ?
> Damn that's why it didn't move at all...
> 
> No, really, the thread of the M6 wasn't strong enough and I pulled 
the whole
> thread out !
> I will try to use M8 bolts and heat it up with a heat gun the next 
time.
> Last time I also used a lead hammer which I normally use to open the 
large
> nuts of
> my other cars spoke wheels.
> 
> Thanks for the many replies
> 
> Elvis
> 
> P.S: Hey Mike, how's weather down there under your car ?
> 
> 
> Elvis,
>         Since you have the M6 screws, use them in conjunction with a
> steering wheel puller and you will be fine.  I used 1/4 inch screws 
and
> re-threaded them.  My advice is to have them be at least 5 inches 
(12.5 cm)
> long, otherwise the puller will not get close enough to lock in to 
the
> wheel.
> 
> Good luck,
> Matthew
> VIN #'s 10365 and 16816




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