From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1374
Date: Thursday, February 06, 2003 11:44 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: light covers
From: Mark Noeltner <>

2. Re:Re: light covers

3. Need for engine block
From: "Stefan Latt <>" <>

4. Engines/Odd+Even fire/Distributors
From: "" <>

5. 1982 Delorean for Sale
From: "David Teitelbaum <>" <>

6. Re: BOnded title
From: Bob Brandys <>

7. Super charging DeLoreans
From: "spaceboy_2912 <>" <>

8. Can I get some advise please -->Re: Rear ended and insurance
From: "gr8old1 <>" <>

9. Rear ended and insurance
From: "Mike" <>

10. Pro Stereo System complete! (LONG!)

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 19:19:19 -0700
From: Mark Noeltner <>
Subject: Re: Re: light covers

Actually, they are NOT covers. It states at the bottom:

"These are not headlight covers. They are a universal stencil kit to paint
covers or headlights"

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 07:08 PM 2/5/2003 -0000, you wrote:
>While cruzin the net I found these headlight covers. There is no 
>picture but they are supposed to be for a Delorean. Check it out. 
>"Lex Rod"


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 04:45:05 GMT
Subject: Re:Re: light covers

No.  If you look more carefully, it says "These are not headlight covers. They are a universal stencil kit to paint covers or headlights."

There are blackouts that are available, ones I have seen velcro on.  Check the archives, perhaps some installations have a line on them (ie pj grady).


---------- "Alex  <>" <> writes:

From: "Alex  <>" <>
Subject: [DML] Re: light covers
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2003 19:08:19 -0000

While cruzin the net I found these headlight covers. There is no 
picture but they are supposed to be for a Delorean. Check it out. 

"Lex Rod"

Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 02:57:54 -0000
From: "Stefan Latt <>" <>
Subject: Need for engine block


Dooes anyone know where I can get an engine block that fits the 
Delorean? Is it 100% identical to Renault 30? A complete engine could 
be considered as well. 

Shipment from Europe is possible. 




Message: 4
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 05:27:01 -0500
From: "" <>
Subject: Engines/Odd+Even fire/Distributors

Hi Farrar

I doubt that very much. Odd or even firing is related to the crank, and
where each piston is in relation to the others - ie in an even fire, each
one will be 60 or maybe 120 degrees out from the next. This in turn affects
the valve timing and therefore the cams.

To convert from Odd to even you'd need to re-fit the crank and cams before
the dizzy. As my guy has pointed out, the crank in the even fire engies
cannot be dropped into the DMC's block - the bearings are different (If I
remember correctly).

NOW, can anyone help with whether the 3 litre pistons are heavier, lighter
or the same weight a the 2.85's? If they weigh the same or ar heaver (and
can be lightened), you can use them on an odd-fire crank and pull the
capacity out to 3 litres.

Talking distributors - if you remove the lambda system on the DMC's engine,
you're not doing yourself half as much a favour as you could by replacing
the distributor with one from a Renault 30 - apparently the curve on a
lambda-equipped PRV is quite different....

#4426 (engine being built without lambda system, but otherwise identical)

Original Message:
From: Farrar Hudkins

 Contact Pacific Rim Automotive - they used to have a kit which would
convert the DeLorean's odd-firing distributor to an even-firing one.

mail2web - Check your email from the web at .


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 05:44:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <>" <>
Subject: 1982 Delorean for Sale

I am again offering a 1982 Delorean 5-speed grey interior vin 101946
32998 miles for sale to the membership of the DML. This is the car
that was offered earlier but it turned out the owner couldn't find the
title. It took this long for New York State to reissue a "lost" title
because the car was last registered in 1988 and since that time they
went to computers so any inactive cars were not entered into the
system. To save themselves the effort of looking in the archives on
microfilm they made the owner jump through hoops with affidavitits,
tracings of the vin and an inspection by the local police dept to
prove it existed and was real. I e-mailed all of the people that had
shown interest but so far no one has come foward to buy the car. Pix
can be seen at   
(it works). The details are as follows: windscreen cracked, driver's
seat cut-up (by ex wife I was told) no frame rust, body in good shape,
ding in rr quater and tee top, headliners gone, motor starts and runs,
antennae removed presumed dead, exhaust leaks, needs cooling system
major service, brakes need flushing and possible rebuild, needs
tune-up, bad cooling fan and horn, shifter boot missing, cracked
sunshade but repairable, needs tires. In short this car will need
$3,000-$5,000 worth of parts but since it was stored inside for most
of it's life there isn't any sun damage and the frame is in very good
condition. It is for sale right now as is, where is for the very
reasonable sum of $8,500. It is located in Rockland county in New York
State. For anyone who wants more details or is actually interested in
buying this car E-mail me. I would prefer to see the car stay in the
area and am willing to help with the mechancal repairs to that end.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

Thanks to the moderator for allowing this repost of a "for sale"


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 07:46:09 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <>
Subject: Re: BOnded title

When I bought the D for the 97 Delorean Time Machine, the junk yard did 
not have a title.

The reason for this it the D was confiscated in a drug raid, and an 
undercover nark was driving it until something went wrong with the 
electrical system.

It then sat in the junk yard for seven years.  the bonded title in 
Illinois cost me $300.  It is now retitled as a Delorean since the 
original vin was still on the car.



Message: 7
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 15:22:00 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912 <>" <>
Subject: Super charging DeLoreans

I remember reading once of a group around the middle of the country 
that super charged deloreans. They did not turn out kits but rather 
took your vehicle and did the mods at their shop. If anyone knows who 
I am speaking about please email me as I am trying to contact them.


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 15:50:38 -0000
From: "gr8old1 <>" <>
Subject: Can I get some advise please -->Re: Rear ended and insurance

I think everyone here probably already knows DMCH's 800 number. If 
the topic of parts comes up, i'd probably just do a conference call 
with the agent on the line and call Houston and ask whoever picks 
up "Hey, how many sqaure feet of parts do you have in your 
warehouse??" lol.  Then just tell the agent: "See how easy that was?"



Message: 9
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 20:05:44 -0800
From: "Mike" <>
Subject: Rear ended and insurance

Hello List,
I know I promised to give my rear ended update, I was putting it off waiting
for a conclusion.
But since this Insurance topic came up again I decided to post.

After 31 days, I now have my DeLorean back from DeLorean Motor Center in
Garden Grove. And of course they did an excellent job. The previous owner
had painted the fascias some peach silver color. So DMCGG painted both
fascias back to the original gray. Everything fits better than before the
accident. Deck lid cover even pops up when you pull the handle.
Also, Dan Botkin who has been with DMCGG for 2 years now is a pleasure to
deal with. The nicest guy you ever wanted to meet. He was very helpful.
There was a DeLorean down there that just had it's motor and frame powder
coated red. And it also had Don's Stainless Steel fuel injectors hoses
installed. Who ever owns that car, Beautiful Job!

Anyway, now for the bad news. Never heard a word from AAA. I could never
reach that damn lady, or get her to call me back.

Now Superior is ducking my calls too.
DMCGG had quoted Superior to paint the front fascia in order to match the
rear. They understood this and gave the
DMCGG called me and said, the painters can't spray over the original paint
in the front. There were too many coats of paint and chips, it would have to
be stripped. The cost of stripping would be $250.00 extra. I said, fine go
So, I called the original adjuster, his phone is also his fax #. Every time
I call him it just beeped. So I sent him a fax but he never called me back.
Then I called the Superior agent and told him what's going on. He said,
$250. isn't a big deal they'll approve it and he would have someone call the
Of course when I picked up my car Dan told me that they wouldn't cover
 So, they won't return my calls, and they haven't sent a second check for
rent a car fees like the agent promised.
Maybe small claims and reporting them to Consumer Affairs is my only option.
I've now been rear ended twice!!

Matthew Stits, I don't know what to tell you or how this could help your
situation, but I hope it does.
Anyone had any luck with 21st Century?

Good Luck


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 10:25:56 -0500
Subject: Pro Stereo System complete! (LONG!)


i have promised and now i deliver!
Introducing a high performance stereo system in my car that leaves the smallest footprint possible! Pics are now up in the photo section under 'pro stereo system'.

- Alpine CD receiver
- Monitor-1 4 channel 70x4 watts RMS full range amp
- JL Audio 250/1 monoblock subwoofer amp; 250 watts RMS
- MTX 3.5" coaxial dash speakers
- Ample Audio 5.25" floor pods from Don Steger
- Boston Acoustic RM6 stacked component hybrid coaxial 6.5" speakers in the rear
- Monitor-1 4 band shelving paragraphic equalizer with 7 volt output
- Kicker Solo-Baric S8L7 ultra high excursion 8" titanium square dual voice coil subwoofer

Here's the scoop:
The Alpine head unit has front preouts and sub/rear preouts.  from the head unit's internal amp i am driving the dash speakers.  the front out goes thru the center console back to the Monitor-1 equalizer which is mounted on the ceiling of the battery compartment.  from there, the signal is split into a front and rear signal (2 pair of RCA's) which then goes up to the Monitor-1 full range power amp which is mounted on the rear wall.  the original flimsy rear wall was removed and undamaged.  We then removed the old thick foam off the firewall and replaced it with modern sound deadening material that is much thinner.  it is then carpeted with gray car audio trim carpet with the amp mounted right to the wall.  from the amp comes the 12 gauge speaker wire that runs up the console to the front pods, and also to each side of the amp for the rear wall speakers.

the rear wall speakers are Boston Acoustic RM6 speakers.  they are a sort of hybrid speaker in that they have a woofer and a tweeter with a crossover on the tweeter for a smoother transition - it is similar to a stacked component set - they sound excellent! they are 6.5" diameter. the speakers are mounted into a custom built wood board that is shaped like each side of the original rear wall.  the wall at that point was built out and at a slight angle so that the top of the wall meets where the black under-window trim's edge is, so the top 1.5" or so of underhang is gone.  the bottom of the new wall goes out to the point where the piece of carpet that covers the floor of the parcel shelf stops. to put this in perspective, with the speakers installed, you can still remove the access board to get to your fuses, so we only lost approximately 1 inch at the most of parcel shelf space.  on the driver's side, we built a trap door which is hinged on the carpet in order to access the engine cover latch, so it is seamless. the amp is finished off with a carpeted press-fit cover that saves anyone from having to see any wiring or sharp edges. when it is all put together, it comes across as three parts - speaker, then amp rack, then speaker, in a seamless integration and of course looking very professional and dare i say OEM.

then we move to the subwoofer.  we removed the cubby door and found that the internal space of the cubby is almost exactly the required enclosure space of a good DVC 8" subwoofer.  however we didn't want to drill into the car or damage the stock carpeting, so we built a modular frame that holds the subwoofer in the enclosure.  it is like a big piece of carpeted wood that goes from the center console to the vinyl wall of the car.   the subwoofer of course goes into the storage box area and the sub amp is mounted right to the wood plate.  of course we used a router to run all the wires between the wood and carpet so there are no visible wires.  to finish it off, we again made a press-fit cover that goes over the amp and around the sub for a continuous and professional look.  the amp is run off of the 'sub out' on the deck.  The Alpine features a seperate subwoofer volume control which is very nice - i dont have to touch any settings on the amp, i control it all from the head unit.

all power and grounds except for the headunit ground went directly to the battery thru a pair of 4 way distribution blocks by phoenix gold.  

after everything was installed, we performed a real-time analysis of the system in which a microphone is placed in the center of the car and it records test signals that tells us which frequencies are under and over-represented.  the equalizer in the battery compartment was installed for this purpose of tuning.  the idea is to set all of your controls with the equalizer, and have your bass and treble settings on the deck on +/- 0.  no loudness, no BBE, none of that stuff that changes the raw signal.  once everything is flat in the car, you use your deck to make small changes from CD to CD.  

however, i knew this system was designed and installed well because before we did any of that stuff, it already sounded incredible!  

the system is, in my opinion, unbelievable.  it is very professional looking, tasteful, and sounds great.  NO, you will not be heard 2 blocks away pounding up the street.  but inside the cabin you will be treated to a full range system that hits hard, sings high, leaves your hair on end.  the idea here is SOUND QUALITY, NOT SPL! SPL requires bigger subwoofers, which would take up more space on the parcel shelf.  let it be known, however, that this 8" is one of the best available and it WILL KNOCK YOU DOWN! no other 8" i have heard comes close.

Pros: ultra high performance, clean power, lots of head room, home-theatre quality in a car that should sound as good as it looks.  small footprint- minute parcel shelf space lost, lost the cubby box.  FULL REMOVEABLE and returns to stock in 30 mintues.  no visible screw holes, no parts of car were hacked up.

8" subwoofer because of its size is incapable of ultra-low bass at high volume.  you will not notice though unless you had an identical 12" next to it.  possible motive for car break-in.  make sure you have a bigger alternator (i have a 130amp).  took me over a week to run wires.

i picked out all the components myself, installed the power stuff and EQ, and ran all of the wires, installed the deck and pods, and then had a local hi-fi shop in Fargo, ND do the rear wall and sub install.  

Many thanks to the members of the DML who offered insight on my project - especially Kayo Ong; if i had not talked with him on numerous occaisions, my system would be quite different and certianly not as good!!

I welcome all comments, criticisms, etc.


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