There is another way. You could try to get one of the newer Bosch
systems that were in common usage in the late 80's early 90's.
Something with engine management and sequential fuel injection (like
the Motronic). Also consider what JZD was doing in the way of the
turbos. I think a combination of these strategies could be awesome and
still have the stock appearing PRV. Of course you would have to do
something with the intake and exhaust to improve breathing and you
would have to lower the compression and change the cam. I am just
guessing but you could probably get 50 HP and 50 ft/lbs torque without
much boost at all. None of this is going to come cheap though which is
why I suggest trying to use common parts that you could get off an old
donor car once you determine what that donor car should be.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Pete B <zamphyr2000_at_dml_y...>"
<zamphyr2000_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks for the info Jen...
> 
> Actually my soon-to-be-inherited Baby is currently a dead vehicle, 
> with a history of heat and moisture related problems (Houston, Texas 
> you know...).  I am used to 300HP+ V8's but I also think the concept 
> of the PRV is in the right place, they were just so far ahead of 
> their time that they couldnt get the correct parts (aka EFI in place 
> of MFI).  It would be part of a major rebuild anyway, and why not 
> take what JZD did and try and improve on it a bit?
> 
> The reasons for the upgrade are:
> 
> 1) Modernization - I am a systems control engineer and think my 
> laptop can handle the fine tuning...  I love optimizing systems and 
> trying to make the inconceviable actual.
> 
> 2) Power and Torque increase.  The (pathetic) stock HP and torque are 
> substandard in my book.  The silver streak should be able to back up 
> its looks with action.  An EFI and ignition control system to replace 
> the ECU in the D is a significant improvement (read vacuum tube to 
> silicon transistor differential) that will allow for wide variations 
> in daily parameters to be compensated for.  An automotive engine is 
> in reality a giant air pump.  If you can optimize the work out by 
> enabling a greater unit of mass (air) through the system and 
> increasing the combustion efficency (chemical mass and energy in), 
> then the same piece of equipment can do much more.  The D stock block 
> and heads are so well engineered, I dont believe engine swaps are 
> necessary, and turbos should only be used to eek out that extra after 
> the system is finely tuned....
> 
> 3) Fuel economy - $ - enough said...
> 
> 4) Pride... if I can take a car that was designed in the 70s, built 
> in the 80's died in the 90's and make it run better, faster and 
> stronger than it ever did, I would be pretty content with myself for 
> some time.
> 
> 5) the KISS principle - keep it simple, sucker... the fewer 
> mechanical parts in a vehicle, the less that can go wrong with it 
> from normal wear and tear.  Replacing the mechanical parts with non-
> contact equivalents improves engine efficency, total vehicle weight 
> (tho only by an estimated 100 pounds) and eliminates many of the 
> common problems with the D.
> 
> My current plan is as follows:
> 
> a.) Strip engine out of car
> b.) Eliminate all archaic low efficency parts (MFI system, 
> Distributor, engine management system, failed electronics, and fuel 
> management system)
> c.) Install engineered more efficent throttle body and intake 
> manifold (from Hennessey, engineered by yours truely for optimal 
> flow) that is capable of Forced Air Induction (turbo or supercharger) 
> for future improvements.
> d.) Have the Stage I improvement installed from DMCH
> e.) Install TEC3 system and Fuel Management hardware
> f.) Tune (OK this one will honestly be the longest part) for use as a 
> daily driver...
> g.) Drive car....
> 
> OK I also have a little question... why would you not want to 
> optimize the PRV.. it is a genuinely awesome engineering marvel as 
> the block and concepts go.  Theoretical maximum HP and torque should 
> be 125hp/L and 100ft-lb of torque per liter naturally aspirated.  
> Achieving 85-90% of that (instead of 50% the stock D came with) would 
> be a significnat improvement in my book.
> 
> In other words, I want a project car that will act as good as it 
> looks, but I recognize it will be a PROJECT!
> 
> Pete




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

hi
Ive been working under my D alot More than when I first go my car and 
Ive noticed some areas that concern me. My frame is in very good 
shape with the exception of some cracking in the epoxy and a small 
rust spot in the front crumble section. with all this snow recently I 
am concerned about moisture getting into those cracks. unfortunatly I 
dont have a garage to put it in anymore (new house) and the snow has 
compleatly covered my delorean these past days. What is the best way 
of preventing the frame from rusting? is it good enough to just paint 
it? I live very close to the shore (in NY) and cars around here rust 
very eaisily, so i need some serious rust proofing advice. any 
thoughts?
Tony 
Vin# 2467




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Hey Matt!

Just finished laying out and formatting your article for the next issue 
of DeLorean Car Show Magazine!  (I think you'll like it...hopefully so 
will everyone else!)

Anyway, YES, I have had something similar to this happen.  A couple of 
months back I was flipping through my copy of DeLorean World, (when it 
was still a  DeLorean centered magazine) and I found VIN 5104 for sale 
in the classifieds.  I own 5102...and I thought that this was pretty 
freakin cool.  I called the number and left a message for the owner, but 
he or she never returned the call. *sniff*  

Also, I believe that Rob Grady's green machine is something like 5098 or 
99.  Not consecutive, but it still gave me a rush to know where the cars 
made, (most likely) on the same day were now located 20 years later! 
 Kinda renews all the mystique and excitement that orginally inticed me 
into buying this car...course, that never really left in the first place!

I've only had one beer, I swear...it simply can't be the bourbon! 
 ...and yes...go bid on the sucker!  In fact if you can find a fourth, 
you'll have a DeLorean for every season!!

Cheers,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
      

Matthew P. Olans wrote:

>Something like this only comes along once in a while,
>        I own VIN 16816.  16817 is for sale...
>        I am curious to know if any of you have ever had the opportunity to
>do this.  Would any of you consider of something like this?...
>
>
>Matthew
>VINs 10365 and 16816
>
>
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Here's one for those of you with the wide black stripe option.  
I was at a car show over the weekend with VIN #3049 which has the 
wide black side stripe.  While dusting the car I noticed that there 
were matching pin stripes running down the right side above the rub 
strip which ended in front of the rear wheel well (it looked like it 
should have extended to the rear facia).  I checked the left side and 
there were NO pin stripes.  Were pin stripes part of the side stripe 
option?  I took a close look at the photos of Ken K's car which also 
has the wide stripe but I could not see any pin stripes.  They look 
good on the car so I'll need to finish the job.

Brent Lundgren
83 VIN #17006 (in Rob Grady's hands)
81 VIN #3049




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

I normally do not self-promote auctions we list on eBay, but we've 
just listed a one-of-a-kind item on eBay that I believe would be of 
interest to some owners among the DeLorean community.

We've just listed a "Doc Brown" wax-museum head of actor Christopher 
Lloyd that would be perfect to display with a costumed mannequin for 
a DeLorean display or event.  The auction can be seen at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=790&item=3313567103

Would love to see it end up in the hands of an owner who appreciates 
the movies and wants something professional & unique to display with 
their car.  The firm we had create the item also has the molds 
available to make a "Marty McFly" (Michael J. Fox) head too for a 
complete set, so we can put you in touch with them should you be 
interested.

Any questions, just let me know.

Stephen Clark
BTTF.com





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

I put tech description of the "Smartbox" in the photo section.I have 
no relation with the manufacturer, just found it in HOTROD magazine 
and found it interesting. It s an electrical control panel including 
relays, fuses and temp sensors.It features fan control, door 
locks,door launcher!,light dimmers...and a lot of functions.
Let us know if you tried it
Raphael




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Matt and List,

As you guys may already know from reading Delorean Car Show magazine
that there was a reunion of sorts at the Evansville, IN show in 2002
with Todd's VIN...6681 (automatic) and my VIN...6683 (5-speed).  It
was great to have such similar VIN cars at the same show.

However, I have come across an even closer match and more incredible
coincidence, which just happens to involve the D Rex.

Several years ago, I had the opportunity to pick up a D project in
nearby Oak Lawn, IL.  Well, turns out I missed out by a few hours.
Fast forward about 4 years.  I find and purchase the Delorean 4x4
in Texas and ship it up to Illinois, UP-graded it to the D Rex and
and take it to World of Wheels.  At the show, a guy comes up to me
and starts talking about a Delorean he owns and has been restoring
for several years.  Turns out he bought the project car in Oak Lawn
several years earlier, but that was only part of the coincidence.

Sometime after the WOW show, I realized the owner of that project D,
Andrew, was posting to the DML with a very familiar looking VIN.
The D Rex is VIN...4193 and Andrew's car is VIN...4194.  After the
cars spent most of their life over 1,000 miles apart, both of these
cars are now reside only about an hour away from each other.  Andrew
and I are planning a reunion between these two siblings this year.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matthew P. Olans" wrote:

Something like this only comes along once in a while,
I own VIN 16816.  16817 is for sale, again, on ebay and something
tells me not to pass it up.  For those of you who know me I've taken 
16816 and changed it just a bit....:)  I keep thinking how sweet it 
would be to have 16817 sitting right next to it, completely stock, 
maybe even concours ready.  
>
> snip <
>
I am curious to know if any of you have ever had the opportunity to
do this.  Would any of you consider of something like this?  I feel 
like since it's presented itself yet again that someone out there 
somewhere is telling me something.
> 
> I dunno....maybe it was just the bourbon....
> 
> Matthew
> VINs 10365 and 16816




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

You are right to be concerned about rusting of the frame on Long 
Island (you are surrounded by the Ocean-salt water is VERY bad). The 
best thing you can do now is just get some kind of rust preventitive 
spray and just drench the frame for the time being. Try to park the 
car on pavement to prevent the moisture from the ground going up into 
the car. Cover it well and make sure that it is tightly covered so no 
small animals can crawl in. When the weather improves remove all the 
loose epoxy by chipping or scrapping it off. Sand the metal to remove 
any rust and feather the edges and then paint with Krylon "Smoke 
Grey". Since you say the epoxy is bad in front it is very common for 
the brake master cylinder to leak causing the brake fluid AKA paint 
remover to soften the epoxy. When you fix the master cylinder and dry 
the epoxy it isn't bonded to the metal anymore so it cracks and comes 
off. Make sure the master cylinder isn't leaking anymore before fixing 
the paint on the frame or it will just damage it again.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc_delorean_2000 
<dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_y...>" <dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> hi
> Ive been working under my D alot More than when I first go my car 
and 
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/