From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1396
Date: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 11:50 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Electromotive anyone? Yes.
From: "Pete B <zamphyr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <zamphyr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Lockzilla Remote Receiver for sale...
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

4. DeLorean Car Show webpage updated 2/24/03
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Delorean cameo
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Electromotive anyone? Yes. Hmmm.
From: "jtipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>

7. Engine possibilites
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com>" <boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Lockzilla Remote Series 2 - Answers
From: ZillaDelorean_at_dml_aol.com

9. RE: Re: Frame Epoxy Cracking
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

10. Re: Record-setting SEVEN D's at FL car show today!!!
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions
From: "treehouse2000us <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: DeLorean Video Games
From: "delorean66 <delorean66_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <delorean66_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Head lamps
From: "geek123y <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>" <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>

14. CV Boot
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com

15. dead temperature gauge
From: <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

16. Lockzilla Remote
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>" <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>

17. How do I determine engine overheating damage?
From: "sansuivintage <J.A.v.d.Bosch_at_dml_stud.tue.nl>" <J.A.v.d.Bosch_at_dml_stud.tue.nl>

18. (unknown)
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. RE: Frame Epoxy Cracking
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

20. Clutch queries
From: "Eric <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>

21. Re: Head lamps
From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Frame Epoxy Cracking
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions
From: "d_rex_2002 <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

24. Re: Frame Epoxy Cracking
From: "dmcmike2002 <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>" <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>

25. Re: How do I determine engine overheating damage?
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 16:54:53 -0000
From: "Pete B <zamphyr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <zamphyr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Electromotive anyone? Yes.

Hey Dave, 

I am in complete agreeance with you on the breathing aspect of the 
engine.  Both inlet and outlet need modification, and I was going to 
use the Stage I as the exhaust modification, and my custom intake 
manifold/throttle body setup for the inlet.  Electromotive appeared 
to tbe the best available alternative, and since I was switching from 
the stock PRV inlet, appeared to be off-the-shelf do-able.

I had not done enough research to find the Motronic FI from bosch.. I 
just looked for the most modern adaptation and found Electromotive.  
Do you have any literature on the Bosch?

The beauty of the custom inlet and Electromotive TEC3 is that I can 
add the supercharger/turbo with no major changes to that component, 
as it has turbo and nitrous controller modules already in the TEC3.

Design for upgrades, and build to suit is my motto.  Get it running 
NA as best I can then add the comressed air devices/Turbos at a later 
date...

Pete

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>" 
<jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> There is another way. You could try to get one of the newer Bosch
> systems that were in common usage in the late 80's early 90's.
> Something with engine management and sequential fuel injection (like
> the Motronic). Also consider what JZD was doing in the way of the
> turbos. I think a combination of these strategies could be awesome 
and
> still have the stock appearing PRV. Of course you would have to do
> something with the intake and exhaust to improve breathing and you
> would have to lower the compression and change the cam. I am just
> guessing but you could probably get 50 HP and 50 ft/lbs torque 
without
> much boost at all. None of this is going to come cheap though which 
is
> why I suggest trying to use common parts that you could get off an 
old
> donor car once you determine what that donor car should be.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:46:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions

Don't make a big deal out of the coincidence of consecutive vin #'s. 
The cars as built were not always built serially although the numbers 
were assigned serially. The creation of a vin # occured in an office 
but the building of a car occurs in the factory, not always in the 
same order. The factory probably never cared since the individual cars 
were not built to order and the choice of options was limited. It does 
seem weird sometimes though. A close examination of vin #'s and build 
dates shows some low vin cars with later build dates, the build date 
is when the car was actually built not always in the correct range of 
vin #'s and build dates. Also some cars were damaged in shipping so 
earlier cars with early dates may have been sold later due to the time 
to repair. It seems vins were scattered, being shipped in no 
particular order to the East coast and the West coast. This is where 
Knut's chronology analysis is very important, trying to make sense out 
of the production chaos when there are no producution records 
available. His analysis can only be as good as the data we can provide 
him so I recommend ALL owners register on the DoD with your vin # and 
build date and options. Who knows, you may find a consecutive vin # to 
your car!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
No known siblings, only distant relatives!



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "d_rex_2002 <rich_at_dml_o...>" <rich_at_dml_o...> 
wrote:
> Matt and List,
> 
> As you guys may already know from reading Delorean Car Show magazine
> that there was a reunion of sorts at the Evansville, IN show in 2002
> with Todd's VIN...6681 (automatic) and my VIN...6683 (5-speed).  It
> was great to have such similar VIN cars at the same show.
> 
> However, I have come across an even closer match and more incredible
> coincidence, which just happens to involve the D Rex.
> 
> Several years ago, I had the opportunity to pick up a D project in
> nearby Oak Lawn, IL.  Well, turns out I missed out by a few hours.
> Fast forward about 4 years.  I find and purchase the Delorean 4x4
> in Texas and ship it up to Illinois, UP-graded it to the D Rex and
> and take it to World of Wheels.  At the show, a guy comes up to me
> and starts talking about a Delorean he owns and has been restoring
> for several years.  Turns out he bought the project car in Oak Lawn
> several years earlier, but that was only part of the coincidence.
> 
> Sometime after the WOW show, I realized the owner of that project D,
> Andrew, was posting to the DML with a very familiar looking VIN.
> The D Rex is VIN...4193 and Andrew's car is VIN...4194.  After the
> cars spent most of their life over 1,000 miles apart, both of these
> cars are now reside only about an hour away from each other.  Andrew





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 13:17:51 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Lockzilla Remote Receiver for sale...

Hey List,

  Now that there is a newer version of the Remote Receiver available, I want 
to get it, but I have the original one.  Would anyone be interested in 
purchasing this used unit from me?  Comes with both key transmitters, box, 
and instruction paper that originally came with it.  Works perfectly.  I've 
had it for a little over a year and I have had no problems with it.  Please 
e-mail me privately with your offer. Thanks!

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 14:14:44 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show webpage updated 2/24/03

The web page is now updated.  We have changed things around a bit.  On the 
daily event button there is now a section for preview of Pigeon Forge.
We went there as you know for New Years Eve and took a lot of pics so you can 
see the size of the place and the stage etc.,

The chairs will all go and that is where the cars will be.

The rooms are there as well.  We took a lot of pictures of the $59 rooms 
right throughout the Presidential Suite. (Actually the Dolly Parton Suite)

There is a picture of the banquet room where we will be served dinner and 
also shots from Pigeon Forge including the outlet mall and the Christmas Shop 
plus more.

We have more videos for you as well.  Look on the left side of the home page 
above the magazine ad and click on Who's coming to Pigeon Forge to see the 
latest 4 additions.  We have two more coming in a week or so.

We also added a counter thanks (Dave and Gary) it shows the time until the 
show in Days, Hours, minutes, and seconds.

Time flies when you are having fun.

And remember to order your magazines now.   The second edition will be out 
towards the middle to end of April.  There are still plenty of the first 
issue available.

So checkout the web site and see what John has to say (he has a video on the 
Whos coming to Pigeon Forge page)

Ken
deloreancarshow.com






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:43:01 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean cameo

Aha, another movie with a short "acting" appearance by a Delorean:  "Big Fat 
Liar",  ~50 min. into the film, a Back to the Future attired DMC is stashed 
in a "Wardrobe & Properties Dept."  storage area and Amanda Bynes is 
lounging on the hood chatting on her cell phone.  Question: where is that 
store room, does it exist there in "Movie Land", does a DMC REALLY hide in 
there?   (Umm, personally, I prefer my hood ornaments a bit older, thank 
you!)       Drive Stainless  (with a hood ornament?)       Robert  VIN 6924  
Sp. Tag  AgBULIT








_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 16:17:50 -0500
From: "jtipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>
Subject: Re: Electromotive anyone? Yes. Hmmm.

Pete, sounds like a big project. More power to ya if you want to do it. I
was just concerned because It sounds like you're going to spend ALOT of
money end up with  less than what you bargained for and with  nightmarish
tuning issues on top of it all.

I by no means am against taking a stock motor and making it faster/more
efficent.  Im very familiar with the concept. I have a 400hp Mazda Miata
that we built with a TEC II using the STOCK MOTOR and turbo.
Im also a fan of motor swapped cars, I have a Monster Miata, with a built
302 5 liter V8 and nitrous.
http://www.onlineshowoff.com/index.asp?section=profile&username=OneFastMiata

I dont think your DeLorean is going to end up meeting your KISS principle
( keep it simple sucker).
The Electromotive tuning and systems  is anything but simple. And as I said,
you're going to end up having to machine a custom crank trigger and other
custom bits to make it work on the D.  BUt if you're going to the expense of
having a custom intake welded up, then maybe having other parts machined
wont bother you.

When I built my stock motor miata, I too designed both an intake manifold
and exhaust manifold and had them jigg'd and welded up out of stainless from
burns stainless.   Interestingly enough I had an ex employee from Hennessey
do some of the welding work for me.  After several test and tune sessions
the exhaust manifold ended up costing $1800.
Due to cost I  decided to forego the intake manifold, and just have the
stocker extrude honed.

I think that a custom intake on a Delorean will cost an equal  fortune as
the miata, and I dont know that simply having the stocker honed, and putting
a bigger throttle body on wouldnt be MUCH easier. Problem is, I really doubt
a company like RC engineering or one of the standards is gonna have DeLorean
big bore throttle bodies. So you're gonna have to get your stocker honed and
find a butterfly that will work.  Again, more psuedo hassle.

  While Im here May I ask, how does one remove the cams should they "go bad"
which was very much a problem on the volvo motor. In fact, when presented
with the "cam problem" they typically DRILLED THRU THE FIREWALL on volvo's
to get them out due to the engine design.   Has anyone  here replaced cams
on their D?


I noticed David Teitelbaums reply to this thread too.   And I agree with
him,  I'd find a hotter ignition, and I'd look into a fuel controller. I
think I'd pass on the TEC if I were you. I think you'll find the TEC is
gonna be a big can of worms on the D.

David Teitelbaum, QUOTE,
"Of course you would have to do
something with the intake and exhaust to improve breathing and you would
have to lower the compression and change the cam". END QUOTE

David I assume you mean raise the compression? If you were going to build a
NA DeLorean motor, you'd want to raise the compression considerably.

As it stands the DeLorean compression is pretty much already ready have
Forced Induction added, but I'd be afraid of scattering the motor.

Again, I just think that between custom intake manifolds and throttle bodies
and TEC III's etc etc etc the project is gonna cost a zillion dollars and
still end up having relatively ho-hum performance.

When you start talking about adding turbo chargers....I'm a little more
intrigued, however I still wonder what kind of power you can pass thru this
motor without it scattering.  Transmission? Diffs?

Cheers
Jennifer Tipton
Louisville Kentucky




----- Original Message -----
From: <zamphyr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Electromotive anyone? Yes.


> Thanks for the info Jen...
>
> Actually my soon-to-be-inherited Baby is currently a dead vehicle,
> with a history of heat and moisture related problems (Houston, Texas
> you know...).  I am used to 300HP+ V8's but I also think the concept
> of the PRV is in the right place, they were just so far ahead of
> their time that they couldnt get the correct parts (aka EFI in place
> of MFI).  It would be part of a major rebuild anyway, and why not
> take what JZD did and try and improve on it a bit?
>
> The reasons for the upgrade are:
>
> 1) Modernization - I am a systems control engineer and think my
> laptop can handle the fine tuning...  I love optimizing systems and
> trying to make the inconceviable actual.
>
> 2) Power and Torque increase.  The (pathetic) stock HP and torque are
> substandard in my book.  The silver streak should be able to back up
> its looks with action.  An EFI and ignition control system to replace
> the ECU in the D is a significant improvement (read vacuum tube to
> silicon transistor differential) that will allow for wide variations
> in daily parameters to be compensated for.  An automotive engine is
> in reality a giant air pump.  If you can optimize the work out by
> enabling a greater unit of mass (air) through the system and
> increasing the combustion efficency (chemical mass and energy in),
> then the same piece of equipment can do much more.  The D stock block
> and heads are so well engineered, I dont believe engine swaps are
> necessary, and turbos should only be used to eek out that extra after
> the system is finely tuned....
>
> 3) Fuel economy - $ - enough said...
>
> 4) Pride... if I can take a car that was designed in the 70s, built
> in the 80's died in the 90's and make it run better, faster and
> stronger than it ever did, I would be pretty content with myself for
> some time.
>
> 5) the KISS principle - keep it simple, sucker... the fewer
> mechanical parts in a vehicle, the less that can go wrong with it
> from normal wear and tear.  Replacing the mechanical parts with non-
> contact equivalents improves engine efficency, total vehicle weight
> (tho only by an estimated 100 pounds) and eliminates many of the
> common problems with the D.
>
> My current plan is as follows:
>
> a.) Strip engine out of car
> b.) Eliminate all archaic low efficency parts (MFI system,
> Distributor, engine management system, failed electronics, and fuel
> management system)
> c.) Install engineered more efficent throttle body and intake
> manifold (from Hennessey, engineered by yours truely for optimal
> flow) that is capable of Forced Air Induction (turbo or supercharger)
> for future improvements.
> d.) Have the Stage I improvement installed from DMCH
> e.) Install TEC3 system and Fuel Management hardware
> f.) Tune (OK this one will honestly be the longest part) for use as a
> daily driver...
> g.) Drive car....
>
> OK I also have a little question... why would you not want to
> optimize the PRV.. it is a genuinely awesome engineering marvel as
> the block and concepts go.  Theoretical maximum HP and torque should
> be 125hp/L and 100ft-lb of torque per liter naturally aspirated.
> Achieving 85-90% of that (instead of 50% the stock D came with) would
> be a significnat improvement in my book.
>
> In other words, I want a project car that will act as good as it
> looks, but I recognize it will be a PROJECT!
>
> Pete



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 00:32:29 -0000
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com>" <boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Engine possibilites

Hello all!

I just wanted to get some opinions as to what everyone would like to 
see as engine "upgrades".  I was toying with the idea of building a 
twin turbo system; not just bolting one on.  I mean actually 
starting from just the block and building a 300+ hp twin turbo that 
looks a lot like the Legend engine...

OR

Doing a complete engine (and possibly tranny) swap.  This would 
probably be a v-6 or v-8 out of some late model car that put out 
somewhere between 250 and 350hp.  

I'm not sure which route to go.....

What do you all think??

Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:53:10 EST
From: ZillaDelorean_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Lockzilla Remote Series 2 - Answers

Christian asks:
> >  I guess I didn't know about this Series 2 Remote. 
> >  > illa Remote, it was with the understanding 
> 
>  the door launchers came out, the Zilla Remote would be necessary. 
   >  > 

No, not at all. 
The Zilla Remote Series -1  is designed to work with the Launcher System as 
well as having the flexibility to pop the Trunk.
Nothing has changed here and nothing further needs to be done. However,

Zilla Remote Series-2   now has more features:
It now Flashes All the Marker lights completely around the car ( including 
the rear ).
It is achieved without modifying the car in any way.... 
It's completely plug-in and takes about 2 minutes to install.

It now has an "Effects Port" intended to plug directly into a High Quality 
Zilla Sound Effects Module to add sound to most Remote functions. It's just 
something for FUN.

Special Thanks:
I'd like to thank Martin for taking the time to to point out that cheap 
remote systems exist. 
Too bad none of them just plug into a DeLorean without modifying any of the 
original wiring. 
If such devices were available I could redirect my energy.

Bob Zilla


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 19:58:23 -0500
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Re: Frame Epoxy Cracking

Dave,
Why would you consider using Krylon spray paint instead of POR-15 in Grey?

". Sand the metal to remove 
>any rust and feather the edges and then paint with Krylon "Smoke 
>Grey". .>vin 10757
>
>.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 17:14:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Record-setting SEVEN D's at FL car show today!!!

Wow... it looks like y'all down in Florida have really nice cars :-). What brand of rims are those on that one D anyways? They're pretty cool looking. I think we need to start a Buy-Brian-A-DeLorean fund... I remember talking to him a couple of years ago at the '01 SEDOC meeting. This guy is a true enthusiast.

Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC

_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 02:03:15 -0000
From: "treehouse2000us <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <treehouse2000us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions

I havent posted in a while, but I just had to comment.  To me, I 
consider the automatic to be a girl and the 5sp manual to be the boy 
of the DeLorean world.  

My advice to Rich is this, when the reunion takes place of vins 4193 
and 4194, dont let your girl crush her little brother.

Ok, i'm dumb


Tom Porter
Vin: Summer 2003

-----------
I find and purchase the Delorean 4x4
> in Texas and ship it up to Illinois, UP-graded it to the D Rex and
> and take it to World of Wheels.  At the show, a guy comes up to me
> and starts talking about a Delorean he owns and has been restoring
> for several years.  I realized the owner of that project D,
> Andrew, was posting to the DML with a very familiar looking VIN.
> The D Rex is VIN...4193 and Andrew's car is VIN...4194.  After the
> cars spent most of their life over 1,000 miles apart, both of these
> cars are now reside only about an hour away from each other.  Andrew
> and I are planning a reunion between these two siblings this year.

> Rich W.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 02:22:25 -0000
From: "delorean66 <delorean66_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <delorean66_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Video Games

[Moderator Note: Feel free to go into detail about any game, but please do it by PRIVATE EMAIL.  The original question has been answered; henceforth only DeLorean-related comments will be approved.  - Mike Substelny, moderator of the week]

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stitsien <stitsien_at_dml_l...>" 
<stitsien_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> For the PS2 that is correct for the XBOX there is " Wreckless: The 
> Yakuza Missions" which has a version of the D as well. I spoke 
with 
> Stephen Wynne when he was in Vegas and was told that Namco was 
> making a game with a delorean in it....NOT a knock off.
> 
> Matthew Stits
> VIN 0789

Can you give more details about Namco's game?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 02:24:45 -0000
From: "geek123y <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>" <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>
Subject: Head lamps

Delorean owners:
Im looking for h4 headlamps to replace my sealed beam headlamps does 
anyone know the place I could find them and the cost?
And if anyone has tried installing them with success or failure 
#02700
Thanks Ken





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 21:53:07 EST
From: deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: CV Boot

Does anyone know if the suppliers still sell CV boots? I have a torn one, and 
I am looking to rebuild/replace the joint as well. I can't seem to locate 
them on Delorean.com. Any ideas?

John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 22:08:03 -0500
From: <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: dead temperature gauge

Hey Everyone

I have a strange problem- my temperature gauge is dead. To describe it best, the needle is in the 5 o'clock position. The needle jumps a bit when I turn the key from Off to On, but doesn't move as the car is running. This happened today after I did a few little jobs to the car. 

Here's the last few things I did to the car, maybe someone will see my mistake- 1) I removed the carpet that was blocking my driver-side floor vent and tucked it underneath the vent 2) I just fixed my speedometer, which consisted of replacing the wheel cap and oiling the cable 3) I checked my fluids (automatic transmission). 

I have a feeling I've jerked something loose under the dashboard trying to rearrange the carpet, but I wouldn't know where to begin. If anyone has any insight on this one, I'd be much appreciative. 

Thanks in advance!

Eric Itzel
Pigeon Forge, TN 
vin 4433

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 04:24:56 -0000
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>" <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Lockzilla Remote

Martin wrote: "An off-the-shelf remote central locking unit will 
interface directly with the stock lock module (as long as you trust 
it - I modified mine with new relays). I have remote locking and 
remote starting (meant for a 5-speed)and alarm system all on the one 
fob and it has cost me less than $100"

I agree with Martin, the stock lock module is completely trustworthy 
with minor upgrades and almost any aftermarket keyless entry system 
will interface with it. I have remote starting, keyless entry, full 
alarm, and one or both door launchers on a four button FOB for about 
$150 total cost (I did the install) The engineering wasn't that 
difficult and all the functions are integrated into a single off the 
shelf box made by a well known alarm company.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 07:42:51 -0000
From: "sansuivintage <J.A.v.d.Bosch_at_dml_stud.tue.nl>" <J.A.v.d.Bosch_at_dml_stud.tue.nl>
Subject: How do I determine engine overheating damage?

Hi All,

I'm going to look at a DeLorean I'm interested in buying next week 
(for the second time). But as far as I could see the previous time, 
there are no updates done on the car, because there are no red dots 
and more importantly the original fan fail module is still in place.

Now I'm worried there might be some engine damage, as a result from 
this (overheating). The car hasn't run much, just 24k miles in the 
Dutch climate (fairly cool), but still....
Is there a simple way to find out if there might be engine damage? 
How can I go about this? And maybe you have more tips and things to 
check when buying a car like this.
 
Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Jaap van den Bosch
The Netherlands
(maybe #02371)




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 10:31:44 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: (unknown)

Does the Workshop Manual or the Service and Tech Bulletin book 
contain info for such tasks as doing a tune-up, valve adjustments, 
etc?  

thanks,

Adam
16683




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:09:05 -0500
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Frame Epoxy Cracking

Tony,
Once the front crumple zone starts to rust it's a pain to really stop it. And if it's rusting there, you can bet there are cracks in the epoxy elsewhere on the frame in boxed areas that you will not be able to get to. The metal in the frame is very thin. Most of the bulk you see and feel is actually just thick epoxy. I would knock the rust out of it aggressively with a body hammer and coat liberally with POR-15. Then don't ever drive it in the salt and keep it as dry as possible. From a durability standpoint in my mind, the epoxy coating was a real blunder.
Jim 6147


"dmc_delorean_2000 <dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <dmc_delorean_2000_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

>hi
>Ive been working under my D alot More than when I first go my car and 
>Ive noticed some areas that concern me. My frame is in very good 
>shape with the exception of some cracking in the epoxy and a small 
>rust spot in the front crumble section. with all this snow recently I 
>am concerned about moisture getting into those cracks. unfortunatly I 
>dont have a garage to put it in anymore (new house) and the snow has 
>compleatly covered my delorean these past days. What is the best way 
>of preventing the frame from rusting? is it good enough to just paint 
>it? I live very close to the shore (in NY) and cars around here rust 
>very eaisily, so i need some serious rust proofing advice. any 
>thoughts?
>Tony 
>Vin# 2467



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:22:52 -0000
From: "Eric <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>" <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Clutch queries

I'm noticing my clutch is grabbing much lower to the floor. That is 
to say the "disengagement Travel" is further than it used to be, 
over time. (Just the opposit of what I know to be a worn clutch).

I'm guessing I may need to bleed my system and maybe even check if 
my slave cylinder needs to be replaced. I'm also guessing that since 
it is a hydraulic clutch, that it cannot be adjusted.

Before I dig out my trusty shop manual and dig into the car - anyone 
have any experience, tips, or advice that you would share with me?


Thanks
Eric P.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 13:42:37 +0000
From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Head lamps

This has come up before and you can get the housings pretty much anywhere 
(they are 4" x 6" I think).  www.jcwhitneyusa.com would probably have them, 
as would some WalMarts.  You can also get sets of the housings and bulbs on 
eBay.  I've done this in the past (as have others) and it worked well.  Only 
problem is that inspection stations in NJ had a real problem with 
"non-original headlights".  Although I'm sure they don't know what original 
headlights are on a DeLorean, they saw the blue and failed me.  Good luck.
-chris-
10213



>Delorean owners:
>Im looking for h4 headlamps to replace my sealed beam headlamps does
>anyone know the place I could find them and the cost?
>And if anyone has tried installing them with success or failure
>#02700
>Thanks Ken

_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:26:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Frame Epoxy Cracking

The Krylon is a perfect match to the grey epoxy primer, the Por-15 is 
not. If you sand the metal till it is bright and shiny, and feather 
the edges of the epoxy you can do an invisible repair. It should last 
as long as Por-15 if you can get the metal clean. You could also if 
you want use a phospated metal cleaner just before you paint if you 
think you have to. I use Por-15 on metal that is so rough and hard to 
clean that you can't get into all of the pits and crevices so you can 
never be sure it is clean enough for anything else to stick and stay 
on. Of course you can use the Por-15 and then go over it with the 
Krylon to cover it.
David teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> Dave,
> Why would you consider using Krylon spray paint instead of POR-15 in 
Grey?
> 
> ". Sand the metal to remove 
> >any rust and feather the edges and then paint with Krylon "Smoke 
> >Grey". .>vin 10757
> >
> >.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:52:22 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002 <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions

David,

Just an FYI from a not too distant relative, VIN...10740 is one
of the severe collision damaged Deloreans I have.  Not sure if it
will ever see VIN...10757 in person again, but if not rebuilt, I'm
sure it will live on in one of my refurbed cars or project cars.

Although there are variables in VIN assignment, such as early cars
taken off the line, converted to RHD and assigned later production
VIN's, in general, I think most Delorean owners enjoy finding or at
least knowing of Deloreans with a similar VIN to their car(s).

I agree with David 100% about getting Knut you VIN and production
information.  I have forwarded all the information to Knut on all
of the Deloreans I own and have refurbished and sold.  This really
is the best way to reconstruct the history of Delorean production.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>" 
<jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Don't make a big deal out of the coincidence of consecutive vin #'s. 
> The cars as built were not always built serially although the 
numbers 
> were assigned serially.  It seems vins were scattered, being shipped 
in no 
> particular order to the East coast and the West coast. This is where 
> Knut's chronology analysis is very important, trying to make sense 
out 
> of the production chaos when there are no producution records 
> available. His analysis can only be as good as the data we can 
provide 
> him so I recommend ALL owners register on the DoD with your vin # 
and 
> build date and options. Who knows, you may find a consecutive vin # 
to 
> your car!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> No known siblings, only distant relatives!





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:39:08 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002 <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>" <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Frame Epoxy Cracking

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> Dave,
> Why would you consider using Krylon spray paint instead of POR-15 
in Grey?
> 
My two cents...I think what David is saying when you are done working 
on the frame use krylon smoke grey to closely match the original 
epoxy color. I just used the por-15 silver to touch up some frame 
rust I had and even the por-15 process recomends topcoating the por-
15 to protect it from sunlight, moisture etc. Even though the silver 
is a close match I topcoated mine with krylon smoke greay and it 
looks great...

Mike C
2109




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:46:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: How do I determine engine overheating damage?

Do a visual inspection looking for burnt wiring and cooked oil. 
Discolored wires, parts, hoses sometimes give a clue. Next check the 
oil, it shouldn't be lumpy, foamy, water drops etc. It shouldn't be 
completly black either. Remove the oil filler and breather cap. Look 
at the underside for water droplets, 1 or 2 might be ok but a lot 
means water in the oil. Finally if you have one, a coolant pressure 
tester use it. This won't always mean an an overheat, it could just be 
indicating bad hoses or water pump. Other tests include a coolant 
tester for combustion gases and a compression test. A melted header 
bottle could also warn you that the motor was overheated. Even if the 
motor was overheated if it wasn't too long or too high it could still 
be alright, the PRV is a tough little motor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sansuivintage <J.A.v.d.Bosch_at_dml_s...>" 
<J.A.v.d.Bosch_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm going to look at a DeLorean I'm interested in buying next week 
> (for the second time). But as far as I could see the previous time, 
> there are no updates done on the car, because there are no red dots 
> and more importantly the original fan fail module is still in place.
> 
> Now I'm worried there might be some engine damage, as a result from 
> this (overheating). The car hasn't run much, just 24k miles in the 
> Dutch climate (fairly cool), but still....
> Is there a simple way to find out if there might be engine damage? 
> How can I go about this? And maybe you have more tips and things to 
> check when buying a car like this.
>  
> Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Jaap van den Bosch
> The Netherlands
> (maybe #02371)




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/