From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1398
Date: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 7:04 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: CV Boot
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions
From: "M. P. Olans <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

3. Re: Lockzilla Remote Series 2 - Answers
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

4. Re: Engine possibilites
From: "M. P. Olans <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

5. Rear main seal wear
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

6. Re: Clutch queries
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

7. Re: Head lamps
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

8. water in plugs
From: "delorean3543 <Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Head lamps
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>" <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>

10. CV Boots at DMC Houston
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Engine possibilites
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

12. Re: CV Boot
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

13. RE: water in plugs
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

14. Re: Rear main seal wear
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Re: Rear main seal wear
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Clutch queries
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: Rear main seal wear
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. Re: dead temperature gauge
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: How do I determine engine overheating damage?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. Remote Locks
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>

21. Looking at a car to buy...
From: mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com

22. RE: Engine possibilites
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>

23. Re: Re: Rear main seal wear
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com

24. Lockzilla Remote Receiver....SOLD
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com

25. CV Boots
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 12:58:40 EST
From: jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: CV Boot

Can you tell me which car the axle is from. I think it is an Audi part.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:02:27 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Sequential VIN Delorean reunions

[MODERATOR NOTE: This is turning into an argument over opinions.  Unless someone has FACTS to contribute please do not respond to this thread.  -Mike Substelny, DML moderator team]

David,
     I enjoyed meeting you through the DeLorean MidAtlantic club and
really learned a lot from you, doing door adjustments all day and
hearing your explanations on detailing and routing maintenance.  
     Having said that, I can't believe how far out in left field you
are with this one.  I think you completely missed the point of what I
was trying to say and how Rich backed me up.  Our cars are rare.  We
identify ourselves in our own culture by VINs.  For a while now I've
heard of someone selling the last '81 and the first '82 as a pair. 
That holds some significance to us as those cars were reportedly
produced sequentially on the assembly line yet have their subtle and
not so subtle differences-depends on how you look at it.  VINs are how
we identify ourselves in the D culture-it's who we are.  To those
folks who recently purchase their car the VIN is not unlike a badge of
honor.  (Just read Shannon's recent post on his new baby-the most
recent reference that comes to mind.)
     Some of us can appreciate that.  As I stated I think it would be
great to have 16816 and 16817 sitting together in my garage or out at
a show.  With what I have done to my car versus the concours condition
of the other I think it would border on amusing; even absurd to some,
but it would be unique.  I don't know anyone other than the gentleman
described above and Rob Grady who can even claim this.  
     So Rich and I can enjoy this situation.  Many others can as well,
as I can show you from the letters I've received.  I like to make a
big deal out of consecutive VINs, especially since there are times
where it appears there is no logic the the numbering process.  It
makes it that much more rare and I appreciate that.  Kind of like how
I appreciate the correct spelling of the word "vendor"....:P

Cheers from rainy, wet AZ (no kidding)
Matthew
VINs 10365 and 16816 (16817 was sold to a high bidder off ebay-if the
new owner is on this list please drop me an email.  Thanks!)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>"
<jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Don't make a big deal out of the coincidence of consecutive vin #'s. 
> The cars as built were not always built serially although the numbers 
> were assigned serially. The creation of a vin # occured in an office 
> but the building of a car occurs in the factory, not always in the 
> same order. The factory probably never cared since the individual cars 
> were not built to order and the choice of options was limited. It does 
> seem weird sometimes though. A close examination of vin #'s and build 
> dates shows some low vin cars with later build dates, the build date 
> is when the car was actually built not always in the correct range of 
> vin #'s and build dates. Also some cars were damaged in shipping so 
> earlier cars with early dates may have been sold later due to the time 
> to repair. It seems vins were scattered, being shipped in no 
> particular order to the East coast and the West coast. This is where 
> Knut's chronology analysis is very important, trying to make sense out 
> of the production chaos when there are no producution records 
> available. His analysis can only be as good as the data we can provide 
> him so I recommend ALL owners register on the DoD with your vin # and 
> build date and options. Who knows, you may find a consecutive vin # to 
> your car!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> No known siblings, only distant relatives!




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:07:15 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Lockzilla Remote Series 2 - Answers

I am not that good with car electrics, and had Martin help me install my
Ultrastarters 2250M remote start/locks/alarm very easy. infact shortly after
I did the install on another car well worth the $109. only being a few
scotch locks if you want to take it out and go back to standard it's real
easy.

Cheers
Paul

#6463
http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk

----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Lockzilla Remote Series 2 - Answers


> Just to clarify - the sum total of the modifications to my wiring in order
to fit my
> Ultrastarters 2250M remote start/locks/alarm (available from
mypushcart.com for $109 inc
> shipping) is a few scotch-locks, and in my case a pair of diodes so to
have it flash the
> indicators and not the parking lights.
>
> Yes, I'm just being pedantic, but I think it's important that people who
are capable of
> playing with electrics shouldn't shy away from doing so.
>
> NB The stock locking module CANNOT be trusted. An off-the-shelf remote
locking system can
> be interfaced with the LockZilla, should you own one.
>
> Martin





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:07:30 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Engine possibilites

Three words (or letters I guess....)

L     T   -   1

I have the donor car.

Matthew

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcboi <boy1der18_at_dml_a...>"
<boy1der18_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hello all!
> 
> I just wanted to get some opinions as to what everyone would like to 
> see as engine "upgrades".  I was toying with the idea of building a 
> twin turbo system; not just bolting one on.  I mean actually 
> starting from just the block and building a 300+ hp twin turbo that 
> looks a lot like the Legend engine...
> 
> OR
> 
> Doing a complete engine (and possibly tranny) swap.  This would 
> probably be a v-6 or v-8 out of some late model car that put out 
> somewhere between 250 and 350hp.  
> 
> I'm not sure which route to go.....
> 
> What do you all think??
> 
> Ryan




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 10:11:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Rear main seal wear

Hi guys.

I've had my rear main seal replaced probably about 4 times since I've
owned my car. Most recently has been a couple times within the last few
months. I'm using a shop here in the Bay Area that I don't necessarily
trust 100%.

I had the clutch done there and they replaced the rear main seal. A week
or so after I got it back, it was leaking. They re-did all the work for
free and replaced the seal again. They noticed some marks on the seal and
somehow "determined" that my crankshaft is warped and is turning in a
slightly oblong pattern.

I suppose they could be right, and I'll just have to live with an oil
puddle in the garage, but I'm hoping that they're wrong. Has anyone had
any experience with rear main leaks that don't seem to go away? Any
solutions? Do you recommend any oil additives to try to plug the leak? Do
you recommend that I stay far, far away from leak sealer additives?

Are there any tricks to installing the seal that this shop may not know
about?

-Christian




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 10:35:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch queries

Yes, start with bleeding your system and checking the level of cluth fluid
in your resovior. The pedal can be adjusted at the linkage in the
footwell.

It's usually recommended that you remove the engine cover to better access
the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder, but if you're really tall,
you can stand at the back of the car, lean over the engine, and juuuust
reach it.

-Christian

On Tue, 25 Feb 2003, Eric  <ericp_at_dml_tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> I'm noticing my clutch is grabbing much lower to the floor. That is
> to say the "disengagement Travel" is further than it used to be,
> over time. (Just the opposit of what I know to be a worn clutch).
>
> I'm guessing I may need to bleed my system and maybe even check if
> my slave cylinder needs to be replaced. I'm also guessing that since
> it is a hydraulic clutch, that it cannot be adjusted.
>
> Before I dig out my trusty shop manual and dig into the car - anyone
> have any experience, tips, or advice that you would share with me?
>
>
> Thanks
> Eric P.



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 13:51:21 -0500
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Head lamps

A guy on Ebay is selling the H4 conversion for around $45.00.  I tried the new Sylvania "cool Blue" lamps (low&high beam) and they are 10 times better than the stock lamps.  The brights are very nice for late night cruising.

peace
Dave
6286





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:50:58 -0000
From: "delorean3543 <Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com>" <Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: water in plugs

I have a new set of plug wires from PJ Grady but every now and then 
the space around the spark plug fills with water and my car starts 
to miss. After drying it out it runs great. Is there any way to 
prevent this?
Jonas
3543




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:29:03 -0000
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>" <jetjock11_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Head lamps


There is a pair of housings on Ebay right now. You can use various 
halogen lamps (Slyvania SilverStars are great) or get an HID kit 
other than the Xenarc and use it in those housings. Be aware that 
some HID kits used with housings not made for them can have focal 
point and thus beam issues and most are not DOT approved. Btw, the 
Sylvania Xenarc kit is on sale now for $439. (Or maybe install the 
HID aux driving light kit down on your front spoiler, $389.) The Aux 
lights run at 5400K and are a little bluish while the headlight kit 
is 4200K and more white. Or put some killer 12,000K lamps in those 
housings, but they're not DOT approved and you'll likely get some 
grief from people for using them.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "geek123y <ken_at_dml_t...>" <ken_at_dml_t...> 
wrote:
> Delorean owners:
> Im looking for h4 headlamps to replace my sealed beam headlamps 
does anyone know the place I could find them and the cost?
> And if anyone has tried installing them with success or failure 
> #02700 Thanks Ken




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:30:44 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: CV Boots at DMC Houston

P/N 100170 (it's under transmission section 4-7). Rob Grady has them
too (same part #).

Bill Robertson
#5939


>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, deloreanss_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Does anyone know if the suppliers still sell CV boots? I have a torn
one, and 
> I am looking to rebuild/replace the joint as well. I can't seem to
locate 
> them on Delorean.com. Any ideas?
> 
> John Weaver
> ETDOC
> RED DMC #10527
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:58:09 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Engine possibilites

I think if you are looking at putting 250-350HP in the car you do some
serious research about:

frame strength
replacement transmission parts or perhaps replacement transmissions
weight added/ handling sacrifices
afterstock rims/ tires

i think it would be easier (and cheaper) to replace the entire engine
than trying to build one.  No project is ever as smooth or fast as you
want it to be- I think by the time you are done you will be glad that you
chose the easier/cheaper route and got stuff done much sooner.

Jim 1537



On Tue, 25 Feb 2003 00:32:29 -0000 "dmcboi <boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com>"
<boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com> writes:
> Hello all!
> 
> I just wanted to get some opinions as to what everyone would like to 
> 
> see as engine "upgrades".  I was toying with the idea of building a 
> twin turbo system; not just bolting one on.  I mean actually 
> starting from just the block and building a 300+ hp twin turbo that 
> looks a lot like the Legend engine...
> 
> OR
> 
> Doing a complete engine (and possibly tranny) swap.  This would 
> probably be a v-6 or v-8 out of some late model car that put out 
> somewhere between 250 and 350hp.  
> 
> I'm not sure which route to go.....
> 
> What do you all think??
> 
> Ryan



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:03:39 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: CV Boot

in section 4.7.0, "drive axle boot", is $22.95 at delorean.com.

PJ Grady has a boot that is imported from europe for $25 I think.
JC Whitney has a universal boot that fits, it's about $10 I remember.

Jim
1537


On Mon, 24 Feb 2003 21:53:07 EST deloreanss_at_dml_aol.com writes:
> Does anyone know if the suppliers still sell CV boots? I have a torn 
> one, and 
> I am looking to rebuild/replace the joint as well. I can't seem to 
> locate 
> them on Delorean.com. Any ideas?
> 
> John Weaver
> ETDOC
> RED DMC #10527



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:34:50 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: water in plugs

Your plug wires should have a seal that covers the spark plug well.  Put a
little tune-up grease on the seal and that should keep the water out.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: delorean3543 <Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com> [mailto:Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 1:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] water in plugs

>
> I have a new set of plug wires from PJ Grady but
> every now and then the space around the spark
> plug fills with water and my car starts 
> to miss. After drying it out it runs great.
> Is there any way to prevent this?
> Jonas
> 3543




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 23:06:27 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Rear main seal wear

Volvo newsgroups complain about PRV oil seals. Surprised me because
mine is tight. Perhaps there's an oil puddle in my future...

Haven't researched PRV seals, but if they're like domestic, simply
driving in with a hammer could be problem. Is a special driving tool
that keeps from warping.

I avoid all stop leak type products. Will glue up good passages as
well as (better than?) whatever's leaking. Friend once pulled sausage
like log of congealed sealers from a water jacket.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Hi guys.
> 
> I've had my rear main seal replaced probably about 4 times since I've
> owned my car. Most recently has been a couple times within the last few
> months. I'm using a shop here in the Bay Area that I don't necessarily
> trust 100%.
> 
> I had the clutch done there and they replaced the rear main seal. A week
> or so after I got it back, it was leaking. They re-did all the work for
> free and replaced the seal again. They noticed some marks on the
seal and
> somehow "determined" that my crankshaft is warped and is turning in a
> slightly oblong pattern.
> 
> I suppose they could be right, and I'll just have to live with an oil
> puddle in the garage, but I'm hoping that they're wrong. Has anyone had
> any experience with rear main leaks that don't seem to go away? Any
> solutions? Do you recommend any oil additives to try to plug the
leak? Do
> you recommend that I stay far, far away from leak sealer additives?
> 
> Are there any tricks to installing the seal that this shop may not know
> about?
> 
> -Christian




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:14:17 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear main seal wear

Christian, I personally have never had problem like that. I have also ordered 
rear mains from two different sources and they all look the same as if they 
are coming from one source. The seal is a flexible rubber that normally snugs 
around the extension of the crank shaft. It also has a spring wire inside it 
to hold it snug.
It normally only goes one way and it's real simple to install once you pull 
the transmission. I don't see how they could mess it up. There is a front and 
back view on the site. Here is the 
link.http://www.specialtauto.com/clutch-comp.shtml
John Hervey
 

<< 
 I suppose they could be right, and I'll just have to live with an oil
 puddle in the garage, but I'm hoping that they're wrong. Has anyone had
 any experience with rear main leaks that don't seem to go away? Any
 solutions? Do you recommend any oil additives to try to plug the leak? Do
 you recommend that I stay far, far away from leak sealer additives?
 
 Are there any tricks to installing the seal that this shop may not know
 about?
  >>



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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 18:44:37 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch queries

Eric, If you have no leaks, then I would top off the fluid and pump the pedal 
about thirty times. If your pedal is still to close to the floor then yes the 
adjustment can be made to the linkage and P.J. sells an adjustable arm. But: 
you can replace wear to the clutch disk. Be careful, and be aware of 
slippage. You may be getting close to replacement time.
John Hervey
   

<< I'm noticing my clutch is grabbing much lower to the floor. That is 
 to say the "disengagement Travel" is further than it used to be, 
 over time. (Just the opposit of what I know to be a worn clutch).
 
 I'm guessing I may need to bleed my system and maybe even check if 
 my slave cylinder needs to be replaced. I'm also guessing that since 
 it is a hydraulic clutch, that it cannot be adjusted.
 
 Before I dig out my trusty shop manual and dig into the car - anyone 
 have any experience, tips, or advice that you would share with me?
 
 
 Thanks
 Eric P. >>



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 23:47:37 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Rear main seal wear

I've seen an issue on the front main seal (the one at the back of the 
car) where the seal wears a groove in the pulley. The fix is a new 
pulley, sleeve the old pulley, or (this is what we did) turn down the 
original pully microscopically on a lathe to clean it up. I suppose 
the same thing could happen at the other (flywheel) end, but as you 
note it's the crankshaft itself that would be the problem. I find it 
hard to believe that the crank would be warped enough to clear the 
seal and not cause a tremendous vibration in the flywheel. 

For the cost of fixing that you can buy a lot of cardboard for the 
garage floor......

OR - it's just a flaky mechanic. There are actually two places that 
it seals, the rubber seal itself AND the retainer that holds the seal 
to the block. If you really want to make a go at it, get him to open 
it up again, remove the seal and retainer, and either show you the 
crank warpage (with a dial indicator) or the groove (not likely). 
I'll bet its not either and he just didn't get it buttoned up right. 
Or you have a leak from somewhere else. 

I would not use oil additives on anything. Run away run away!. 

Dave

[duplicate quote snipped buy moderator]



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:27:28 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: dead temperature gauge

Eric, The metal cases the meters are made out of mounted to the plastic bezel 
with two very small pins or protrusions that are molded at factory. They will 
break very easy, if that happens the shaft that rotates the needle will bind 
and the meter won't read correct or move very easy. You can take a 6 volt 
battery or some kind of power supply up to about 14 volts and hook it up to 
the wires and watch the needle movement. This would then tell you if it's 
wires, ground or something else. Best would be to go straight to the meter. 
John Hervey


<< 
 I have a strange problem- my temperature gauge is dead. To describe it best, 
the needle is in the 5 o'clock position. The needle jumps a bit when I turn 
the key from Off to On, but doesn't move as the car is running. This happened 
today after I did a few little jobs to the car. 
 
 Here's the last few things I did to the car, maybe someone will see my 
mistake- 1) I removed the carpet that was blocking my driver-side floor vent 
and tucked it underneath the vent 2) I just fixed my speedometer, which 
consisted of replacing the wheel cap and oiling the cable 3) I checked my 
fluids (automatic transmission). 
 
 I have a feeling I've jerked something loose under the dashboard trying to 
rearrange the carpet, but I wouldn't know where to begin. If anyone has any 
insight on this one, I'd be much appreciative. 
 
 Thanks in advance!
 
 Eric Itzel
 Pigeon Forge, TN 
 vin 4433
 
 [ >>



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 19:35:09 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: How do I determine engine overheating damage?

Jaap, What I first look for is any signs of water that has gotten into the 
oil. The look if it's been there looks like a oily wet foamy substance, then 
I would compair the plugs and see if they all look about the same. ( The tips 
) There is a chart on the web site. Then I would run the car and see how fast 
it heats up and turns on the fans. If it doesn't turn them on just above the 
second mark, the there maybe be a problem.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< I'm going to look at a DeLorean I'm interested in buying next week 
 (for the second time). But as far as I could see the previous time, 
 there are no updates done on the car, because there are no red dots 
 and more importantly the original fan fail module is still in place.
 
 Now I'm worried there might be some engine damage, as a result from 
 this (overheating). The car hasn't run much, just 24k miles in the 
 Dutch climate (fairly cool), but still....
 Is there a simple way to find out if there might be engine damage? 
 How can I go about this? And maybe you have more tips and things to 
 check when buying a car like this.
  
 Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
 
 Thanks!
 
 Jaap van den Bosch
 The Netherlands
 (maybe #02371)
  >>



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:05:59 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv_at_dml_megalink.net>
Subject: Remote Locks

Lets also remember that there are alot of owners who don't have the 
technical skill to take an off the shelf remote kit and install it.  The 
stock DMC lock controller basically sucks.  It burned out my solenoids 
and cost me quite a bit to replace, this is why I first bought the 
Lockzilla Controller. Bottom line folks,  at this point in my over 10 
years of DMC ownership I would not trust my cars electronics to anyone 
other than those that are making products for the DeLorean ONLY.  

While there are competing products out there made by different DMC 
Vendors,  the Zilla line is my preference.  I find them to be well 
built, 100% backed by Bob and I know that my supporting this product 
will help develop other items.  Why support PEP-BOYS? or AUTOZONE?  Are 
they making items designed just for a Delorean.....no.    If you can buy 
the correct off the shelf unit and install it....that's great.  If you 
saved a few bucks, that's great too.  But, if you are a novice in the 
field of electronics I suggest buying the Zilla line from my own 
personal experience.   Don't buy an off the shelf unit and try to adapt 
it to "make it work"....why bother?  It took me only a few minutes to 
install my remote unit.  Why subject yourself to cutting and splicing? 
 God forbid if you mess up and try to call the manufacturer for 
support......"what kind of car do you have?"....."A 
DeLorean"....."DeLorean?.....hmmmm. I don't have any information on that 
car"  (sound familiar?)

I know I sound like a cheerleader for Zilla but I guess when you find 
something that works so well with SO little effort it makes a true 
convert of you.    There are lots of you who are very skilled and 
capable of doing things most of us would never dream of.  So, please 
remember that when you suggest off the shelf products that involve more 
than just "plug and play" that it may be easy for you install but will 
be Greek to most others.   Zilla take out any question, any quess work, 
and to me that means less stress and worry that what Ive just done to my 
car will work.  

Tom
#005732






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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 21:13:23 -0500
From: mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com
Subject: Looking at a car to buy...

Hello,

Here is the information on a car I am lookig to buy...

Current Owner info:

Purchased:  March 2000 with 19,777 original miles
Current Mileage:  20,900

Last Inspected:  5-16-00

Some of the Maintenance Performed:

Purchase set of Delorean Manuals
Replace regulator for both door panels
Repair and clean off corrosion from tag light bulbs
Drain gas tank and flush
Drain and flush coolant 
Replace reservoir with updated stainless steel
Replace drive belts
Lube throttle cable, gears, steering column
Set engine specs
Change engine oil and filter
Change trans fluid
Replace exhaust manifold & gaskets 
New manifold heat stove
Replace door seals on both doors
Replace fuel tank sender
Replace fuel & air filter
Replace spark plugs  used Bosch - & wires
Convert / recharge air condition system with R12
New battery
New heater / AC blower motor
Replace fuel hoses
Replaced brakes  front & rear
     Including pads, caliper, hoses, master cylinder
New tires  Goodyear  align & balanced
Replaced door lift piston  both doors
DMC embossed nose bra

What are some of the things I should check out when I go see the car? I mean I went and got a few checklists from the web but having never seen a good example or a bad example how do I know what I am looking at?

Can I get some help please?

Michael



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:30:09 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Engine possibilites

the problem youget is that for the possible output of the PRV it's about the
lightest you can get.  execpt maybe the aluminum buick V8.  chevys are
heavy, you want an all aluminum engine avoid cast iron.

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Strickland [mailto:ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com]
Sent: February 25, 2003 1:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine possibilites
>
>
> I think if you are looking at putting 250-350HP in the car you do some
> serious research about:
> 
> frame strength
> replacement transmission parts or perhaps replacement transmissions
> weight added/ handling sacrifices
> afterstock rims/ tires
>
> i think it would be easier (and cheaper) to replace the entire engine
> than trying to build one.  No project is ever as smooth or fast as you
> want it to be- I think by the time you are done you will be glad that you
> chose the easier/cheaper route and got stuff done much sooner.
>
> Jim 1537

[very long quote snipped by moderator]



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 22:45:05 EST
From: wingd2_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Rear main seal wear

In a message dated 2/25/03 8:08:52 PM Central Standard Time, 
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:


> I've seen an issue on the front main seal (the one at the back of the 
> car) where the seal wears a groove in the pulley....... I suppose 
> the same thing could happen at the other (flywheel) end, but as you 
> 


   Dave has a good point on this one. But one other thing I have seen on a 
couple of cars, especially ones that have just sat unused for a long time, is 
over time moisture can collect on different metal parts. I have seen a couple 
of crankshafts where the bottom side of the crank at the back, where it is 
exposed out thru the rear seal behind the flywheel, has had enough moisture 
form to actually rust and pit the end of the crankshaft at this seal 
location. Naturally this rusting and pitting will eat the lip of the seal up 
as the crankshaft rotates, thus causing the leak. Like Dave said, the surface 
of the crankshaft must be cleaned and smooth at the point it meets the seal 
in order for the seal to work correctly.
    I also think Dave's idea about the seal retainer plate may be correct 
also. This plate holds the rear seal in place. It also bolts to the rear of 
the block and is sealed on the back with a paper gasket and on the bottom, 
where it sits on the rear main cap, it is sealed with gasket sealer, no 
gasket. The possibility of your leak coming from this plate and not the seal 
itself is also very great. Next time you have your clutch man redo your rear 
seal, have him also remove and reinstall and seal this retainer plate 
correctly.

   Marty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 22:51:17 EST
From: njp548_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Lockzilla Remote Receiver....SOLD

Hey List,

    Just wanted to send a quick message to the list telling everyone its 
sold.  Thanks to all those who were interested in it.

Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 22:58:06 EST
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: CV Boots

PJ Grady has original style CV Boots.  Call him and he'll give you the 
details.

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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