From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1411
Date: Friday, March 07, 2003 1:10 PM

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There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Low Vin # Warnings
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>

2. AW: Door Lock Solenoids
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

3. DeLorean Access Issues
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Just got my Toby TABs: questions...
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

5. Re: Just got my Toby TABs: questions...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: Mechanically Challenged
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Door Lock Solenoids
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Master Brake Cylinder & ...
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: DMC+Speedbump=OUCH
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

10. Re: Window motor cleaning
From: James A Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

11. Re: Door Lock Solenoids
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

12. Possible stolen D's
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Re: This is so frustrating!!!
From: "Aaron" <slider10_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Possible stolen D's
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

15. twin turbo air scoops may be available
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>

16. Re: Re: Low Vin # Warnings
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

17. misaligned door
From: <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>

18. Delorean MidAtlantic Club Spring Social Information
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

19. Re: AW: Door Lock Solenoids
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Master Brake Cylinder & ...
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Cooling Fan Failure.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 16:52:33 -0000
From: "stitsien" <stitsien_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Low Vin # Warnings

Whoa, well I'm 0789 an automatic with black interior… what to say. 
Well, first the recalls I had to do all of those; also check all the 
plastic parts such as the radiator and don't be surprised if some 
things latter on when you tear into that car seem well … to be the 
product of testing out the assembly process. Don't take that 
negatively as odd as that may sound though its just that you see 
allot of tape when you pull interior panels off for example. When I 
pulled my speaker panels off one side had fur tree clips the other 
had tape because when they drilled the fiberglass they were off by a 
few centimeters also check the truck and see if you had a metal cap 
not just covering the windshield cleaner but another on the left side 
when your facing the car "I do." For that most part its kind of fun 
because the early cars from the ones I have seen have so many odd and 
ends slightly different about them.

Well that's all I can really say about the subject but feel free to 
email me.
Matthew Stits
0789

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Tom, If you know how to evaluate an older car then I look and 
listen to it.
> Does it over heat & Why??
> What leaks?
> What about the rubber hoses??
> Is there any rust???
> What kinds of sounds does it make. Idling or driving???
> Things like that.
> Low Vin doesn't have to be Doom, but how did the previous owners 
take care of 
> it.
> If the previous owners waited for something to happen then it will, 
but if 
> you do pre-maintance, then the waterpump may need to be replaced 
along with 
> all the o rings and gaskets. Is there any signs of water corrosion 
in the 
> coolant system. Does the oil pressure read correctly, Has the fuel 
filter 
> been changed lately? 
> As you can see there are a lot of things you may need to ask or 
observe or 
> just plan on doing. If the alternator is one of the originals, then 
it will 
> be under powered for the full use of the electrical system. Many 
questions.  
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
>  
> 
> 
> << And when I say a low vin #, I'm not kidding.  I'm currently 
looking 
>  at Vin # 787, of course Black interior, gas flap, with windshield 
>  antenna and automatic trans.  It has 39K on the Odo and they (the 
>  dealer) claims it to have a perfect interior.  The only downside 
is 
>  its price, 13,995, but its not too terrible. Vrs 32.5k or 62k, its 
>  quite a bargin, stop arguing you guys.
>  
>  Ok, I know I have asked many many questions before, but what are 
the 
>  particular things I need to have done for this "super" early car 
if I 
>  indeed decide to buy it.  Beside the zilla stuff.  The altinator 
has 
>  to go I know, but what else.  This is my dream car, well yes the 
>  DeLorean, but a very early vin car.  Also, has anybody encountered 
>  this car at anytime (00787), or knows the previous owner.  I doubt 
it 
>  because I couldnt find the vin anywhere on the list.  Thanks a lot
>  
>  Tom Porter
>    Vin: Summer 2003 (do or die)
>   >>




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 18:51:24 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Door Lock Solenoids


The solenoids aren'd worn out or something similar.
They simply are burned inside !
the coating / insulation of the wire is melted away and now the current
makes it like JZD said - it cuts corners..also called short circuit !

Why ? because a relay was stuck and toasted the wire.
If one is bad, the other one isn't much better because the are connected to
the same relay.

That's a common problem, do your homework and you'll find the problem and
solution.

simply mathematically said - the force F depends on current I and the
windings N
f ~ I*N
if the currents takes a short cut, there may be a higher I but almost no N
anymore...

5 bucks of copper wire and one or two hours of work and you're done.

Elvis & 6548 with working power door locks


ok...do you other guys have to mash on your Door lock switch to get it to
work?  I didnt think that was "normal" or working as intended...So along
with having to tear down the door to fix my window problems, i figued i
would investigate why the resistance of the door lock switch, also my remote
control unit will lock both doors but will not Unlock the drivers side door,
i figured (after inspection of the door mechanics) that the solenoid is worn
out and needing to be replaced...when engaged it barely moved almost like
the arm moves out and then back in....Just enough to move the pieces of the
contact plate to lock the doors..it doesnt seem like it should be working
like that. Have any of you had experienced that?  I have not taken out the
solenoid and inspected it yet, but i have been reading about some similar
instances and wonder as well, if anyone has had thier solenoids "rewound" to
give them back thier strength. I guess old age and or a combination of the
old stock door lock module weakend the solenoids. Just wanted to know so i
could possibly save 150 Bucks for a new solenoid.

any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
Raine M.
Vin # 1096


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 18:00:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: DeLorean Access Issues

Gee whiz people, get a life. You'd think I'd criticized the President
from flaming eMails. It's a car, not a God. Will post one open two
word reply then forget the issue (am not replying to eMails):

Ford F150.

Changed thermostat, radiator, and heater hoses on the truck: 30
minutes. Same for DeLorean: 2 weekends ("internal" water pipe is very
much external, thank you very much).

Changed headlights on the truck: 15 minutes. Same for DeLorean: 90
minutes.

Replaced master and slave cylinders on the truck: 1-2 hours (with
bleeding). Shudder to think how long little silver car will take when
its time comes.

Need any more examples?

Don't get me wrong -- I like my D very much. Am very glad I have one.
Key word in that sentence is "one". Don't have time or patience for a
fleet (imagine if ratio of Lincolns to DeLoreans was other way
around!). #5939 has found its last owner. Is already becoming a
fixture up & down I-95 (and I-85, eh Louie). Should log 10K miles
annually no problem. 

And it remains a car with significant access issues.

Bill Robertson
#5939











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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 18:41:11 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Just got my Toby TABs: questions...

Adam - The washers are in the kit for "grip length adjustment" 
purposes.  The length of the bolts was set to minimize the number of 
threads in the sleeve (either the trailing arm or bushing sleeve).  
It's not a good design practice to have "threads in bearing".  For 
cars that have only one alignment shim, the bolt may be a little long, 
and requires two flat washers to ensure that the nut doesn't bottom 
out on the shank of the bolt.  If more than one alignment shim is 
used, you should use only one washer under the nut.  The washers are a 
very snug fit on the bolt shank, but they should fit.  You may have to 
"walk" it on a little. The washers are sized for SAE 7/16" 
threads, while the shank of the bolt is a metric diameter that is 
larger than 7/16".  There is no requirement for an additional washer 
under the head of the bolt.  These washers are not in the official 
DeLorean Parts Manual.  Keep in mind that you still need to use all of 
the large flat washers that are in the stock joint, although you may 
want to flip the washers over if you find a deep wear groove in them 
where the sleeve has been bearing on the washers.  The large flat 
washers must go back in in the same order as they came out.  Of 
course, the shims must also go in the same as they came out to 
preserve the alignment of the rear wheels.  Please feel free to ask 
any further questions that you may have.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1
TobyP(at)katewwdb.com 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I just got my Toby TABs and I must say that I am impressed with the 
> bolts, they're sweet bolts!  But I do have a question about the 4 
> washers that the bolts came packaged with. What are these washers 
> for exactly? What would the part number be for the washers in the 
> Parts Manual? 
> 
> I thought they were shims but I found that the washers don't fit 
> around the bolts.
> 
> thanks, 
> Adam Price 16683




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 19:06:09 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Just got my Toby TABs: questions...

Adam,

The Toby tabs were made to an already existing spec and as such the shank is a little too
long. The washers are to compensate. They do fit but are tight - this is intentional.

Martin
#1458
#4426

Adam wrote:

> I just got my Toby TABs and I must say that I am impressed with the
> bolts, they're sweet bolts!  But I do have a question about the 4
> washers that the bolts came packaged with. What are these washers for
> exactly? What would the part number be for the washers in the Parts
> Manual?
>
> I thought they were shims but I found that the washers don't fit
> around the bolts.
>
> thanks,
> Adam Price 16683




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 19:30:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Mechanically Challenged

If you want to learn how to work on your car but don't have much 
experience there are 2 major pitfalls you do not want to fall into. 
The first is generally most inexperienced people will try to work on 
the car with inadaquate tools. Not only is it frustrating but it also 
damages the car and creates safety issues. You must decide if you want 
to work on the car some of the money you will save must go toward the 
purchase of GOOD tools. The other big problem area is experience. Too 
often people will do something very unsafe only because they don't 
realize it. The 2 places most get into trouble is lifting the car and 
working around the fuel system. Try to get someone with some 
experience working on cars to at least coach you as to how to work 
safely. Since this is only a hobby to most of us we wouldn't want to 
get hurt over it. In the beginning do the simple things to build your 
confidence. Watch how other people work and slowly attempt harder 
projects. Even "experts" break bolts, damage parts, hurt themselves 
etc.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
>   I'd have to agree with Elvis on this one.  There
> really is plenty of room to work on most items on the
> Delorean.  As part of my custom project, I've had to
> install and remove the entire engine several times to
> test fit certain things and I have to admit, I'm
> getting pretty good at it.  Also, when I fabricated my
> 




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 19:43:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Solenoids

If the door lock-unlock is not easy it usually means either the door 
is not closing properly (both front and rear locks not engaged in the 
second locking position) or the linkage is out of adjustment (probably 
from being forced because the door was not properly closed). Close the 
door slowly and you should hear both the front and rear locks click 
twice as you close the door and the anchor pins engages the locks. If 
you don't you have to adjust the anchor pin for the lock that is only 
in it's first locking position so that it gets to the second position 
at the same time as the other lock in the door. You should not have to 
slam the door to do this. This is a tricky adjustment because it is 
hard to see and the door closes in an arc. You may also have to remove 
some of the fiberglass to get more room to adjust the anchor pin. 
After doing this you may still need to adjust the linkage inside the 
door and lubricate. BE CAREFUL INSIDE THE DOOR!!! There are a lot of 
sharp edges and they will cut you up and you won't even feel it. Put 
duct tape over the sharp edges before you begin. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Raine Moreno <raine-moreno_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> 
> ok...do you other guys have to mash on your Door lock switch to get 
it to work?  I didnt think that was "normal" or working as 
intended...So along with having to tear down the door to fix my window 
problems, i figued i would investigate why the resistance of the door 
lock switch, also my remote control unit will lock both doors but will 
not Unlock the drivers side door, i figured (after inspection of the 
door mechanics) that the solenoid is worn out and needing to be 
replaced...when engaged it barely moved almost like the arm moves out 





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 16:01:41 EST
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Master Brake Cylinder & ...

Many thanks to all those who volunteered their helpful ideas and information 
about the master brake cylinder.  The repair has been performed with a 
remanufactured unit purchased at a local auto supply for $95.50.  It is an 
A-1 Cardone unit, part #11-2329 and corresponded to a 1982 Saab 900, as many 
of you said.  Interestingly enough many of the bigger auto parts places 
around here either said they couldn't get it or quoted me an outrageous price 
and required a special order with a non refundable restocking fee if it was 
not the right one.  My local shop had it in, in 2 hours and went over it all 
with me to confirm it was right.  They even swapped over the reservoir.  (Not 
that, that was such a big job but it was nice to get the help locally.)  The 
repair went quite smooth and access was very good.  Not one curse word was 
uttered!  The most tedious part was cleaning the reservoir and electrical 
connectors with a Q Tip.  Of course as luck would have it while checking on 
the repair, I found out that one of my fan motors is not working.  It turns 
freely and has voltage at its connector.  Are there any known failure modes 
or repair tricks you could share with me?

Thank you all again. 

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 11:58:14 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: DMC+Speedbump=OUCH

Oh, it was definitely the front end; I noticed something wrong even before the rear went
over the bump.

I did do a brief visual inspection of the front steering/supension but found nothing
obvious.

I just got my new Toby TABS, so I'm thinking I'll send the car down to Houston and have
the whole suspension serviced with new tie-rod ends, bushings, etc. since they're all
quite worn.


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 18:03:34 -0500
From: James A Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Window motor cleaning

i advise getting the replacement.

I did the same thing, looked at the price of replacement, and said- nah,
this isn't dead yet!  I sanded and lubed things up.  It worked again but
not great.  2 months later, it broke again and I was bakc in the door to
replace it.  Could have saved some time if I just replaced it the first
time.

There's no replacement for the replacement.  Yea.  that's it.

Jim


On Wed, 5 Mar 2003 20:33:37 -0800 (PST) Raine Moreno
<raine-moreno_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> writes:
> 
> Rather than drop 250+ on buying a new window motor i have taken out 
> mine because i rolled down the window and then it stopped halfway 
> and it wont move now...so i took apart the door and insides and took 
> apart the motor and tested it and it is operating fine...so it 
> appears that the problem is that the rod is very stiff...i can 
> Barely move it up and down with my hand. So i am trying to take it 
> all apart and  clean and re-lube everything. I am figuring that the 
> rod is suppose to move up and down freely and very easily...any 
> advice on making this process easier would help. 
> thanks,
> -raine
> vin# 1096
>  aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com wrote:I am sadden by the fact I must sell my 
> Delorean.
> 
> Year: 1981 
> Vin: 2578
> Miles: 26,492
> Gas Flap Hood
> Black Interior - Good Condition
> Rear Louvres and door struts are o.k.
> Heat/Air AM/FM and cassette works
> Almost a complete set of Delorean World Magazines.
> Damage to driver side mirror.
> Runs good 2.85 liter V6 Engine.
> 
> My D needs a good home.
> 
> Do to financial situation I must depart with my Delorean. D is 
> located in 
> Brownsburg, Indiana right next door to Indianapolis, Indiana. Would 
> like to
> sell for $14,000. 
> 
> Please respond to: aabclafon_at_dml_aol.com
> 
> Thanks
> David L.
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
> address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> 


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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 22:19:30 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door Lock Solenoids

Raine, For 5 years I had no problems with my door locks with my 11004 I just 
sold.. The trick was to never lock the doors from the inside. All I did when 
I got the car was to replaced the two relay's inside the module and the 
diode. Worked fine from there 
after. No one ever replaces them and the contacts get very burnt. They are on 
the web site.  Also replace the Circuit breaker to a 10 or 15 amp. Larger 
breakers will allow it to burn up faster if they hang up.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

<< ok...do you other guys have to mash on your Door lock switch to get it to 
work?  I didnt think that was "normal" or working as intended...So along with 
having to tear down the door to fix my window problems, i figued i would 
investigate why the resistance of the door lock switch, also my remote 
control unit will lock both doors but will not Unlock the drivers side door, 
i figured (after inspection of the door mechanics) that the solenoid is worn 
out and needing to be replaced...when engaged it barely moved almost like the 
arm moves out and then back in....Just enough to move the pieces of the 
contact plate to lock the doors..it doesnt seem like it should be working 
like that. Have any of you had experienced that?  I have not taken out the 
solenoid and inspected it yet, but i have been reading about some similar 
instances and wonder as well, if anyone has had thier solenoids "rewound" to 
give them back thier strength. I guess old age and or a combination of the 
old stock door lock module weakend the solenoids. Just wanted to know so i 
could possibly save 150 Bucks for a new solenoid.
  
 any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
 Raine M.
 Vin # 1096
  >>



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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 03:33:08 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Possible stolen D's

Group, I just got a call from the Dallas police that two Deloreans 
vin # 7158 and #4475 are sitting in a bad location in Dallas where 
there is a lot of drug traffic and the keys have been broke off in 
the ignition. It's about 9:30 PM on Thursday night the police have 
asked me if we have any way to identify who they belong to. So, If 
you have any information about these Vin's please call me at any #'s 
on the web site.The folks that own them may not even know they are 
stolen. It's also referesing to know that my local polce in Forney 
know me and the officer said every night he comes by and counts the 
cars outside.
Call me If you have any information.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com





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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 04:27:10 -0000
From: "Aaron" <slider10_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: This is so frustrating!!!

Delorean at 15 or 16 = bad move.  It's a bad first car and even worse
when you're so young.  I would NEVER buy one so young.  Get a SunStar
model and then wait unti you're 18.  The insurance will kill you and
even if you're a good driver, there's too many asshole kid drivers out
there that can cause problems for your car.

If you MUST buy one now, put it in your parents name, prep it for
storage, and leave it in your garage for a few years.

Do the smart thing.  Don't be in debt while you're so young.  Wait to
get the car.

-Aaron Crocco
NY Plate OUTATYM

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supremeadmiralsenn <StadnickAd_at_dml_u...>"
<StadnickAd_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> Well, I told my dad that I was going to call Insurance Company X to 
> see about possibly getting a policy in both of our names, when he 
> suddenly tells me for the first time that it wouldn't accomplish what 
> I was hoping. Then he tells me, weeks after the fact, that he's 
> already seen about having a De Lorean added to his and my mom's 
> policy. Turns out it would be less than half the cost of the last 
> company I called. But when I ask him why he won't help me buy a D, he 
> only says it's impossible to get insurance! So, I could afford the 
> insurance, but I'd have to find a VERY considerate owner who'd let me 
> pay in installments, since, being 15, I can't get a loan. I know, I 
> shouldn't even be trying without being at least 16, but the earlier I 
> start looking the better my chances are. Just needed to vent instead 
> of smacking him with my SNO_BIRD poster. (Not a good idea, it's 
> original and pricelsee to me).




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 02:48:52 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Possible stolen D's

Ken, Dave and Walt. Thanks . Both cars were on Ebay last month thanks to Walt 
and it's now about 1:30 in the morning and I printed all the info off and the 
Dallas Police just picked it up. I am not trying to accuse any one of wrong 
doing, but when the Dallas police tracked me down I think they were pretty 
serious. Hopefully this will be resolved quickly and no one to the worst. If 
not I hope they throw the book at them.
I'm going to bed. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 03:44:00 -0500
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu>
Subject: twin turbo air scoops may be available

Hello everyone. It has been a while since I have last had anything to sell, but I wanted to see if people are interested in getting plastic molded air scoops, just like what were on the factory twin turbo car. They will fit nicely and I estimate the cost for a pair will be $30-$50. They will attach with very strong body sidemolding tape to the window so no clamps or drilling is needed and can be installed in like 5 minutes, just clean the surface and stick them on. They will follow the contour of the window and not be mounted to the stainless. They are not ready just yet, but if there is enough interest it will be a motivating factor. If enough people wanted them they could be ready as early as the end of March

Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu www.formulabuckeyes.com 


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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 07:00:02 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Low Vin # Warnings

>For that most part its kind of fun because the early cars from the 
>ones I have seen have so many odd and ends slightly different about them.

Last summer when I was installing a new radio, I found out why the left front speaker didn't work.  For some reason, the wiring harness to that speaker was about a foot shorter than it should have - it NEVER worked, since it was never connected.  The lugs on the ends were original and the harness was otherwise untouched.  There was no way to re-route the harness to make it fit.  I had to splice an "extension".  My VIN is #1619 (June '81).  No super early, but before production got really ramped up later in the summer/fall.

-Hank




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 08:28:29 -0500
From: <eric_at_dml_seviernet.com>
Subject: misaligned door

Hi Everybody

My drivers door seems a bit misaligned. It opens and closes without any problem, but when it is shut I can see some of the lift strut if I stand behind the car. The back inside corner of the door slightly rubs against the T-panel as well. 

It looks like a door adjustment is needed, but where do I start?

Thanks in advance

Eric Itzel
vin #4433



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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 06:32:45 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean MidAtlantic Club Spring Social Information

Yes...it is almost that time again!  The Delorean MidAtlantic Club is
ready to say goodbye to the snow, and have our annual spring social!
This is ALWAYS and awesome event with tons of Deloreans in attendance.
 
For more details on the event, check out our web site!
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/events.htm#spring
 
 
Kevin Abato
Vin #16680


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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 09:17:49 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: AW: Door Lock Solenoids

Elvis, I have operated door locks on as small as 10 amp circuit breakers. 
Then as you know, if they hang up for any reason the breaker will trip before 
the
module / relays inside burns up. That has been my experience. Don't run them 
on 20,30,or 40 amps. You will be asking for trouble.  
John Hervey


<< 
 The solenoids aren'd worn out or something similar.
 They simply are burned inside !
 the coating / insulation of the wire is melted away and now the current
 makes it like JZD said - it cuts corners..also called short circuit !
 
 Why ? because a relay was stuck and toasted the wire.
 If one is bad, the other one isn't much better because the are connected to
 the same relay.
 
 That's a common problem, do your homework and you'll find the problem and
 solution.
  >>



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 09:42:37 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Master Brake Cylinder & ...

Dave, As you may know that A1 Cardone is the largest rebuilder in the World I 
think and they do a good job. But in brake parts rebuilt it isn't the always 
the way to go unless the cylinders are turned and maybe even replaced with SS 
sleeves. 
New is 20.00 bucks more is the better way to go if in the future you may need 
to change it again. This subject has come up several times on the DML about 
rebuilt VS new and most people go with new as I understand it, even on water 
pumps I sell 10 to one new Vs rebuilt. Just something to keep in mind.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 
 

<<   The repair has been performed with a 
 remanufactured unit purchased at a local auto supply for $95.50.  It is an 
 A-1 Cardone unit, part #11-2329 and corresponded to a 1982 Saab 900, as many 
 of you said.  >>



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 14:46:58 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Failure.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctordhd_at_dml_a... wrote:
<SNIP>
> Of course as luck would have it while checking on 
> the repair, I found out that one of my fan motors is not working.  
It turns 
> freely and has voltage at its connector.  Are there any known 
failure modes 
> or repair tricks you could share with me?

I have the same problem with my fans. If I drive thru standing water, 
it will splash up and gum up the brushes inside. A fix that will work 
is electric motor cleaner. Shove the little straw inside the drain 
hole on the bottom of the casing, and spray away. Just make sure that 
you wear protective eyewear when doing this.

I've been told that this is not a good sign, and that if you have to 
do this, it's a sign that you'll need to replace the motors soon. 
It's probably correct, because since having to do this, my engine 
cools down slower now when the fans turn on. For myself, I know that 
I'll need to replace the fans, but I'm just curious if anyone knows 
of any other possible set up to increase the CFM air flow across the 
radiator. And yes, I already have a 3-layer radiator.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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