From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1419
Date: Friday, March 14, 2003 9:52 AM

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There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Brake fluid Again
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Cold help
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

4. wheel repair
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

5. Re: Fuse box...
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Door Lock Solenoids
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

7. RE: Re: Brake fluid Again
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>

8. Re: wheel repair
From: Jim Senft <jpsenft_at_dml_erols.com>

9. Re: Cold help
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Cold help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Delorean 4x4 on Monster Garage (website)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

12. Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

13. Shifter knobs
From: "dmc12don" <DMC12Don_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 05:09:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonas Pitchford <Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid Again


I use Valvoline SynPower. The bottle says it works in dot 3 and dot 4 systems. It is avaliable in most part stores here in Baton Rouge, LA
Jonas   3543
 Jason Rowe <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net> wrote:Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one has any castrol. I asked the guy 
at napa if he could order some for me so he looked and said that they don't have it listed. He 
then asked me why it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot 4. I said good question and
I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He said that the fluid is so regulated that there 
really can't be much difference between all of the brands. So what is so special about it? 

Thanks in advance....again.....................Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 11:47:04 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: WATER PUMP POLL

Imagine this will be redundant but here goes.  Getting access to the hoses
behind the pump puts you in a position to replace the pump easily.  It cost
more but I recommend you seriously consider it.

I have noticed when you do a flush on radiator systems that are old things
tend to start leaking that didn't before.  Done it 3 times and ended up
replacing 2 pumps and one radiator shortly after the flush.  One pump was on
my Delorean and the other 2 were a Ford van and truck.

If it were easier to access the pump I would say wait and see if it works in
your favor.

Ed
10541


----- Original Message -----
From: "id" <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 7:17 PM
Subject: [DML] WATER PUMP POLL


> I am about to do all of the hoses on my car and i need your help. My water
pump is
> working and not leaking and i have 52,000 miles on my car. I have been
told to replace



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 19:17:01 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Cold help

Here's,one for you all

My car used to idle great at cold and then Idle around 1500 when warm...

Turned out to be a knackered Idle speed motor. (stuck open) Now that's
replaced it idle just fine at cold and hot.....

So the problem is now when cold trying to give it beans when pulling away it
coughs and farts until you press down the clutch and ease it back up. and
gently gain speed.. It never did this before I switched the idle speed
motor.

I guess there's something that needs adjusting,but what?

Cheers
Paul

#6463
http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 14:50:31 -0500
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: wheel repair

So, for those of you familiar with the DC Metro area, I live near 495
and Georgia Avenue. Georgia Ave basically should be condemned. I came to
thise conclusion shortly after a pothole damaged both my port-side rims
which are now, ever so slowly, hemorrhaging air. Anyone know of a place
in the DC/MD/VA area that does decent work on rim repair? I'm not set up
for it (nor do I have the first idea as to what's involved, other than
maybe hitting it with a hammer over and over). If it comes down to it, I
can always swap them for new ones from DMCH, but it seems silly to
deplete the parts reserve if they're reparable.

Thanks,

Noah
#2867

-- 
"It's really obvious. People are motivated by money, sex, 
and power. If NASA was getting money or power from the alien 
technology, they wouldn't be having budget problems. So what does 
that leave?"
                - rw-rw-rw-



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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:18:44 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuse box...

Nick, The replacement Delorean fuse block  I think what you may want is on my 
web site. It has 20 positions instead of 18.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/modification.shtml

<< Hey List,
 
     There is a project I am working on and I need to know if anyone knows of 
 a fuse box that has the fuses that are next to each other side by side the 
 exact distance apart from the original DeLorean fuse box?  If anyone has the 
 newer style Zilla Remote Receiver, they know about the printed circuit board 
 that is in there that goes in the fuse box that takes the place of 2 fuses.  
 The project I am working on requires this printed circuit board to go inside 
 a different fuse box, but I need to find a fuse box that will enable this 
 printed circuit board to fit in there.  Anyone have any ideas?  I just need 
 it to have those 2 slots, if it has more, thats ok but it can't be too large 
 since there isn't that much space in the electrical compartment for it.
 
 Later,
 Nick Pitello
 1852
 15914
 <A HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
  >>



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:35:19 -0500
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Solenoids

Hi All,
 
To whoever wanted to rewind their door lock solenoids, I just bought a
10 pound spool of the correct wire.  Drop me an email privately if you
need some.
 
-Dave
VIN #05927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 08:59:01 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Brake fluid Again

I put the Valvoline dot 3-4 synthic brake fluid in both my clutch and brake
system and have not had any problems in that area.

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
Sent: March 13, 2003 7:03 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Brake fluid Again


I am not a chemist. I can only tell you from experience ALL of the
people that work on british cars using Lucas-Girling say that because
of the rubber that is used for the seals in the brake system the only
recomended fluid is Castrol GTLMA. While it is true that ALL DOT 4
fluids must pass the smae testing it does not mean they are all made
the same. Keep looking for it and if you can't find it I am sure you
can order it from someone. Try a shop that works on Jaguars, they
should have some or be able to tell you where to get it. Any large
store that has the Castrol line of products should be able to get it
for you, it isn't that special. You could also try the Castrol
website, they should be able to tell you where you can get some.
Sometimes you just don't argue with experience. BTW keep some in a
small bottle on a shelf so you can top off the system if you ever need
a little. The bottle must be kept tightly closed to avoid moisture
contamination. The brake fluid is supposed to be changed every 2
years. (and clutch fluid). You could just use the Castrol in all of
your cars, it is a very good brake fluid. In may respects it is even
better than DOT 5 (silicone).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_t...> wrote:
>           Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one
has any castrol. I asked the guy
> at napa if he could order some for me so he looked and said that
they don't have it listed. He
> then asked me why it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot
4. I said good question and
> I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He said that the
fluid is so regulated that there
> really can't be much difference between all of the brands. So what
is so special about it?
>
>                             Thanks in
advance....again.....................Jason #5903
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/






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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 17:37:59 -0500
From: Jim Senft <jpsenft_at_dml_erols.com>
Subject: Re: wheel repair

Noah,
I live several miles north of you.  The best rim repair shop I have found in this area (
I have had 6 wheels repaired there already from Corvette and Suburban), is Ye Olde Wheel
Shop, 6363 Washington Blvd, Elkridge, Maryland  21227.  About 20-30 minute drive north
for you.

Phone 1-800-526-8260

It works best if you can remove the tire, and leave the wheel.  They also will
mount/remount/balance if necessary.  Best to call for an appointment.  Their work is
outstanding!

Good luck!

Jim
#5832

Noah wrote:

> So, for those of you familiar with the DC Metro area, I live near 495
> and Georgia Avenue. Georgia Ave basically should be condemned. I came to
> thise conclusion shortly after a pothole damaged both my port-side rims
> which are now, ever so slowly, hemorrhaging air. Anyone know of a place
> in the DC/MD/VA area that does decent work on rim repair? I'm not set up
> for it (nor do I have the first idea as to what's involved, other than
> maybe hitting it with a hammer over and over). If it comes down to it, I
> can always swap them for new ones from DMCH, but it seems silly to
> deplete the parts reserve if they're reparable.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Noah
> #2867
>
> --
> "It's really obvious. People are motivated by money, sex,
> and power. If NASA was getting money or power from the alien
> technology, they wouldn't be having budget problems. So what does
> that leave?"
>                 - rw-rw-rw-
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 20:06:26 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cold help

Paul,you may want to look into adjusting the 02 adj in front of the fuel 
distributor when the car is hot, but I think you may now be looking at a warm 
up regulator.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< So the problem is now when cold trying to give it beans when pulling away 
it
 coughs and farts until you press down the clutch and ease it back up. and
 gently gain speed.. It never did this before I switched the idle speed
 motor.
 
 I guess there's something that needs adjusting,but what?
 
 Cheers
 Paul
  >>



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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 15:16:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cold help

There are a lot of things that could cause it to misbehave at idle. 
Check the 3 brass screws on the intake, they should be LIGHTLTY closed 
(clockwise). Make sure you hear the frequency valve buzzing on the 
right valve cover. Fix any vacuum leaks (like a hissing mode switch). 
Make sure the throttle spool is activating the idle micro. Check the 
vent hose on the control pressure regulater that it isn't kinked or 
blocked with dirt. Look at the air sensor plate, it should be centered 
and not rubbing the sides. Maybe it's time for an air filter, and on 
and on and on. Sometimes it is all this and more. Every little thing 
that is off just makes the engine run worse and worse. Could be dirty 
or clogged fuel injectors, bad spark plugs or wires, the list goes on. 
Sometimes the only way to deal with these kinds of quality problems is 
to just start from the beginning and do a COMPLETE tune-up. I do not 
recommend indescrimantly "tweaking" things to solve a problem. Most of 
the time you cannot fix these kinds of things by adjusting them out. 
You are only covering up the underlying problem, not correcting it. 
KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF THE MIXTURE SCREW, YOU WILL ONLY MAKE THINGS 
WORSE. Just make sure the plug over it is sealing tight so there are 
no vacuum leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Paul,you may want to look into adjusting the 02 adj in front of the 
fuel 
> distributor when the car is hot, but I think you may now be looking 
at a warm 
> up regulator.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 
> 





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 14:42:16 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean 4x4 on Monster Garage (website)

Finally!!

D Rex made it on Monster Garage (well, the website anyway, so far)
and the D Rex is still in the running for the Weld of the Month too.

They did not use the best photo or details, but it is on the site.
Attaching the link below, but you may have to cut and paste it.

http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/monstergarage/yourmonster/yourmonste
r.html

And don't forget to catch the Delorean Midwest Connection club and
D Rex at the Chicago St. Pat's Day parade this Saturday, March 15th.
WGN coverage is nation-wide wide on cable and satellite TV providers
and is broadcast Live starting at 12 noon (Central Time).

Later,
Rich W.



 




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 20:28:28 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: WATER PUMP POLL

In a message dated 3/13/03 4:32:07 PM Central Standard Time, 
edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> I have noticed when you do a flush on radiator systems that are old things
> tend to start leaking that didn't before.  Done it 3 times and ended up
> replacing 2 pumps and one radiator shortly after the flush.  One pump was 
> on
> my Delorean and the other 2 were a Ford van and truck.

.....which is why they call it preventative maintenence!!  if you flush the 
radiator according to the manufacturer's intervals, it won't leak like that.  
BUT if you let it go until "yup, it's pretty bad", then yes you will have 
these kinds of problems.  i can't believe how many people there are out there 
who wait until it's 'too late', and then they shake their heads when bad 
things happen afterward.  

the truth is, if you flush it on time, the fluid won't look like mud and it 
will probably still have adequate protection.  but you are preventing the 
build-up of the stuff that gets flushed away and causes leaks!

my 2 cents..
Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 04:14:12 -0000
From: "dmc12don" <DMC12Don_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Shifter knobs

Who is it that has the SS and aluminum shifter knobs?
  Thanks, Don VIN 6860




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 04:49:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...

My PRV idles with bypass & balancing screws (like a Volvo). Works
excellent, but lacks ability to fast idle -- especially useful on 28
degree mornings. Have engineered an "auxiliary air valve" from BMW 530
to accomplish this (am not partial to that particular model; was
simply soonest ending eBay auction when I got bright idea). Uploaded
JPG's to #5939's photo album. Text below:

Aux air valves were apparently used by most other manufacturers of the
time. Are solenoid or coil operated valves similar to heater core shut
off valves. Cold, valve is open, allowing additional engine vacuum to
operate sensor plate (fast idle). Warm, valve closes, limiting sensor
plate movement to bypass screw.
My valve has 3/4" ports. Stepped down to 3/8" with brass fittings.
Vacuum source port also turned 90 degrees with an elbow (would have
preferred model that passes straight through, but hey, this one
works). Converted two 1/8 NPT nipples to 10x1 to fit manifold and
upper air assembly (anyone else noted how close those thread patterns
are? Die down right nicely). Used mega hose to avoid collapsing under
vacuum. Line to air sensor plate makes pretty severe bend under
driver's intake rail, so I reinforced with an internal spring. Also
had to move spark advance to a smaller adjacent port (see old pic
titled "R30 - Front". That's extent of my engine vacuum system BTW).

Was hoping for a coil operated valve but got a solenoid. Oh well, what
do you expect for $5. Next time intake manifold is off will attach
ground wire to thermal switch in coolant pipe. Until then is triggered
by a switch under the dash left over from earlier experiments. 12v
supply is taken from old idle speed motor harness.

Couldn't be happier with performance of this low tech idle speed
system. Removes all the gremlins that plagued my automatic motor.
Total investment: $20.

Anyone want to buy a surplus idle speed motor and ECU?

Bill Robertson
#5939






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