From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1420
Date: Saturday, March 15, 2003 7:53 AM

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Castol GT-LMA Brake Fluid
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

2. Electrical Mess
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

3. DeLorean Car Show Magazine
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Fuse box...
From: "milo4845" <wayne_at_dml_knothole.net>

6. Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Shifter knobs
From: "patrickdmc" <patrickdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Electrical Mess
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

9. door strut cross reference
From: "Stephane & France" <fchenail_at_dml_sympatico.ca>

10. Re: Re: Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. re:shifter knob
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

12. Re: door strut cross reference
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 10:11:48 -0600
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Castol GT-LMA Brake Fluid

Where to buy...

http://www.castrolusa.com/about/vendorlocator.asp

My local AutoZone has it in stock, though another Auto Zone here in town did
not but was willing to order it.

James




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 09:06:37 -0800
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Electrical Mess

*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
I am in the process of fixing the prior owners electrical mess and have 
ran into a few problems. In a recent post I mentioned the electric mess 
inside the doors (Yards of extra wiring, 3 relays per door, flasher 
modules ). One mod to the car was wiring that ran from the alternator 
all the way up to the cooling fans, an otterstat installed in the 
radiator, funky fan wiring, and another wire that ran all the way back 
to a relay mounted on the left intake manifold , then wired over to the 
AC compressor. Wiring ran from there to a toggle switch inside the car 
to (i guess) manually turn on the fans. the otterstat in the coolant 
line was  disconnected.

I have removed all this mess and put things back to the way they should 
be but now the fans run constantly, from the moment you turn the key to 
the ignition position. Its almost like jumping the wires at the 
ottersat.

Question: When an otterstat fails, does it fail to a dead short , if 
not where else should I look in the circuit to solve this?

I also have got the wiring for the door switches mostly fixed now, 
(another real mess ) but the courtesy lights only go on when you open 
the passengers door.  What have I  missed?  with all the snipped 
connections I could well have missed something.

Phil Priestley
Vin #2105




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 12:21:05 EST
From: kkoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Magazine

The second edition of the DeLorean Car Show Magazine will be going out in 
April.  All articles are in and we will be printing it soon.

If you haven't subscribed yet for the first issue or if you want the second 
issue you can check it out at the website 

deloreancarshow.com 
and click on magazine

thanks

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:32:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...

>From your description of what you did it sounds like the aux air valve 
is now either on or off. There is no in between. The origional "stock" 
idle motor and ECU is capable of modulating ie: it can give you speeds 
in between full open and full closed so it can hold the idle speed to 
a specified value like when you run the A/C or in an automatic you 
stop at a lite and are sitting in Drive with your foot on the brake it 
keeps the idle speed up but not too high. Your system cannot 
compensate for load changes, only temperature changes. IMHO the stock 
system is the better way to go, it just needs to work properly and be 
set-up correctly (something many mechanics can't seem to do).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> My PRV idles with bypass & balancing screws (like a Volvo). Works
> excellent, but lacks ability to fast idle -- especially useful on 28
> degree mornings. Have engineered an "auxiliary air valve" from BMW 
530
> to accomplish this (am not partial to that particular model; was
> simply soonest ending eBay auction when I got bright idea). Uploaded
> JPG's to #5939's photo album. Text below:
> 
> Aux air valves were apparently used by most other manufacturers of 
the
> time. Are solenoid or coil operated valves similar to heater core 
shut
> off valves. Cold, valve is open, allowing additional engine vacuum 
to
> operate sensor plate (fast idle). Warm, valve closes, limiting 
sensor
> plate movement to bypass screw.
> My valve has 3/4" ports. Stepped down to 3/8" with brass fittings.
> Vacuum source port also turned 90 degrees with an elbow (would have
> preferred model that passes straight through, but hey, this one
> works). Converted two 1/8 NPT nipples to 10x1 to fit manifold and
> upper air assembly (anyone else noted how close those thread 
patterns
> are? Die down right nicely). Used mega hose to avoid collapsing 
under
> vacuum. Line to air sensor plate makes pretty severe bend under
> driver's intake rail, so I reinforced with an internal spring. Also
> had to move spark advance to a smaller adjacent port (see old pic
> titled "R30 - Front". That's extent of my engine vacuum system BTW).
> 
> Was hoping for a coil operated valve but got a solenoid. Oh well, 
what
> do you expect for $5. Next time intake manifold is off will attach
> ground wire to thermal switch in coolant pipe. Until then is 
triggered
> by a switch under the dash left over from earlier experiments. 12v
> supply is taken from old idle speed motor harness.
> 
> Couldn't be happier with performance of this low tech idle speed
> system. Removes all the gremlins that plagued my automatic motor.
> Total investment: $20.
> 
> Anyone want to buy a surplus idle speed motor and ECU?
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 17:45:51 -0000
From: "milo4845" <wayne_at_dml_knothole.net>
Subject: Re: Fuse box...

Hi Nick
I have used John Hervey's Fuse Block. It is GREAT. It will fit in the 
same spot as the factory unit. I would recommend it to anyone. E-Mail 
me if you need any help. 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Nick, The replacement Delorean fuse block  I think what you may 
want is on my 
> web site. It has 20 positions instead of 18.
> John Hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/modification.shtml
> 
> << Hey List,
>  
>      There is a project I am working on and I need to know if 
anyone knows of 
>  a fuse box that has the fuses that are next to each other side by 
side the 
>  exact distance apart from the original DeLorean fuse box?  If 
anyone has the 
>  newer style Zilla Remote Receiver, they know about the printed 
circuit board 
>  that is in there that goes in the fuse box that takes the place of 
2 fuses.  
>  The project I am working on requires this printed circuit board to 
go inside 
>  a different fuse box, but I need to find a fuse box that will 
enable this 
>  printed circuit board to fit in there.  Anyone have any ideas?  I 
just need 
>  it to have those 2 slots, if it has more, thats ok but it can't be 
too large 
>  since there isn't that much space in the electrical compartment 
for it.
>  
>  Later,
>  Nick Pitello
>  1852
>  15914
>  <A 
HREF="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
>   >>




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 12:31:49 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: WATER PUMP POLL

Of course that assumes you owned the vehicle it's whole life which many of
us have not.  I say this because I know a woman that didn't change the oil
in her band new car for over 20,000 (yes 20k) miles because she didn't have
the money for an oil change.

Then there is the story of my late wife when she picked up some oil.
Luckily she showed up at the counter with a quart in her hand and asked the
attendant for a filter.  The attendant, sensing something was amiss (I guess
being cute and 70 pounds (yes she was only 70 pounds) tends to make
mechanics a bit concerned when you show up with only a quart), asked what
she was going to do with that quart of oil.  She proudly announced, "I'm
gonna to change my oil!!!"  The attendant gave her 4 more quarts.

And of course things do wear out too.

Ed

----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2003 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] WATER PUMP POLL


> In a message dated 3/13/03 4:32:07 PM Central Standard Time,
> edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:
>
>
> > I have noticed when you do a flush on radiator systems that are old
things
> > tend to start leaking that didn't before.  Done it 3 times and ended up
> > replacing 2 pumps and one radiator shortly after the flush.  One pump
was
> > on
> > my Delorean and the other 2 were a Ford van and truck.
>
> .....which is why they call it preventative maintenence!!  if you flush
the
> radiator according to the manufacturer's intervals, it won't leak like
that.
> BUT if you let it go until "yup, it's pretty bad", then yes you will have
> these kinds of problems.  i can't believe how many people there are out
there
> who wait until it's 'too late', and then they shake their heads when bad
> things happen afterward.
>
> the truth is, if you flush it on time, the fluid won't look like mud and
it
> will probably still have adequate protection.  but you are preventing the
> build-up of the stuff that gets flushed away and causes leaks!
>
> my 2 cents..
> Andy
>
> Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 19:32:58 -0000
From: "patrickdmc" <patrickdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Shifter knobs

   For anyone that has the SS knob. Doesn't that get hot in the sun? 
I have an aluminum Hurst T-handle on mine and with this california 
sun it gets so hot I keep expecting the word Hurst to be branded into 
the palm of my right hand. 



Patrick
1040



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc12don" <DMC12Don_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Who is it that has the SS and aluminum shifter knobs?
>   Thanks, Don VIN 6860




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 14:47:10 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Electrical Mess

Phil Priestley wrote:

[snip]

> I have removed all this mess and put things back to the way they should
> be but now the fans run constantly, from the moment you turn the key to
> the ignition position. Its almost like jumping the wires at the
> ottersat.
>
> Question: When an otterstat fails, does it fail to a dead short , if
> not where else should I look in the circuit to solve this?

What's in place of the fan control module in your relay compartment?  Is it the original
blue module?  Do you have a dead short?  Fan module bypass?  Fanzilla?

- Mike Substelny
01280   almost 10 years (gadzooks!)




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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 15:18:46 -0500
From: "Stephane & France" <fchenail_at_dml_sympatico.ca>
Subject: door strut cross reference

allo i'm looking for door strut cross reference
in canada<
fchenail_at_dml_sympatico.ca




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 20:23:26 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...

My "original" idle speed system was cantankerous and irritating.
Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. Remember, however, I am
burning a replacement engine. Idle speed circuit was not transferred
per DMC design (blame a PO, not me) No throttle closed microswitch --
motor was hard wired on (am also missing the spark advance solenoid.
That's why my takeoff is uphill of throttle plates, like a
carburetor). Perhaps full time operation fried motor or ECU. Either
way, was not willing to spend $hundreds to fix.

Solenoid valve indeed on/off (one reason I was hoping for a coil). But
since I'm currently in full control with dash switch, no problem
there. In future will see how vehicle responds to coolant switch. By
the time water is hot car shouldn't need fast idle. If need be can
always leave dash switch active (kind of like an old choke cable, eh?).

May need two idle speed settings for summer and winter. Have done that
with smaller carbureted vehicles when A/C solenoid dies. Ford 460's
don't seem to notice compressor is even there...

Only brought this mod to list's attention because others seem to be
having similar problems. Of course an automatic system is nice, *IF*
it works correctly. I don't care about nice. I care about reliable.
Bypass/balancing screws stay put where I set them. As evidenced in
pics, I prefer engine distilled to its basics. No whistles, no bells,
no problems.

Note on driver's side of my block one more advantage -- distributor is
finally accessible! Have to raise upper air assembly for vertical
clearance to remove wires, but no sweat reaching them, hold down bolt,
etc. 100% improvement.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> From your description of what you did it sounds like the aux air valve 
> is now either on or off. There is no in between. The origional "stock" 
> idle motor and ECU is capable of modulating ie: it can give you speeds 
> in between full open and full closed so it can hold the idle speed to 
> a specified value like when you run the A/C or in an automatic you 
> stop at a lite and are sitting in Drive with your foot on the brake it 
> keeps the idle speed up but not too high. Your system cannot 
> compensate for load changes, only temperature changes. IMHO the stock 
> system is the better way to go, it just needs to work properly and be 
> set-up correctly (something many mechanics can't seem to do).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > My PRV idles with bypass & balancing screws (like a Volvo). Works
> > excellent, but lacks ability to fast idle -- especially useful on 28
> > degree mornings. Have engineered an "auxiliary air valve" from BMW 
> 530
> > to accomplish this (am not partial to that particular model; was
> > simply soonest ending eBay auction when I got bright idea). Uploaded
> > JPG's to #5939's photo album. Text below:
> > 
> > Aux air valves were apparently used by most other manufacturers of 
> the
> > time. Are solenoid or coil operated valves similar to heater core 
> shut
> > off valves. Cold, valve is open, allowing additional engine vacuum 
> to
> > operate sensor plate (fast idle). Warm, valve closes, limiting 
> sensor
> > plate movement to bypass screw.
> > My valve has 3/4" ports. Stepped down to 3/8" with brass fittings.
> > Vacuum source port also turned 90 degrees with an elbow (would have
> > preferred model that passes straight through, but hey, this one
> > works). Converted two 1/8 NPT nipples to 10x1 to fit manifold and
> > upper air assembly (anyone else noted how close those thread 
> patterns
> > are? Die down right nicely). Used mega hose to avoid collapsing 
> under
> > vacuum. Line to air sensor plate makes pretty severe bend under
> > driver's intake rail, so I reinforced with an internal spring. Also
> > had to move spark advance to a smaller adjacent port (see old pic
> > titled "R30 - Front". That's extent of my engine vacuum system BTW).
> > 
> > Was hoping for a coil operated valve but got a solenoid. Oh well, 
> what
> > do you expect for $5. Next time intake manifold is off will attach
> > ground wire to thermal switch in coolant pipe. Until then is 
> triggered
> > by a switch under the dash left over from earlier experiments. 12v
> > supply is taken from old idle speed motor harness.
> > 
> > Couldn't be happier with performance of this low tech idle speed
> > system. Removes all the gremlins that plagued my automatic motor.
> > Total investment: $20.
> > 
> > Anyone want to buy a surplus idle speed motor and ECU?
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:30:37 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: re:shifter knob

the ss and aluminum knobs can be found here :
http://putschdesign.tripod.com/PPD/id6.html





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:15:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: door strut cross reference

Don't cut corners on this one. Risk of damage to pontoon mounted ball
stud too great. Rob Grady's are 100% proper length and work quite well
IMHO. Shouldn't be any problem to ship to Canada, even overnight.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephane & France" <fchenail_at_dml_s...>
wrote:
> allo i'm looking for door strut cross reference
> in canada<
> fchenail_at_dml_s...




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