From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1425
Date: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 6:32 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Front LCA links
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

2. trans swap
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

3. Re: Polyurethane bushings
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

4. AW: Re: Polyurethane bushings
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

5. Fascia Removal
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Fuel octane
From: "ceegee1895" <vjca_at_dml_telus.net>

7. AW: Fuel octane
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

8. Re: Fascia Removal
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Polyurethane bushings
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

10. Re: Fuel octane
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

11. Re: Fuel octane
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

12. Re: Re: Polyurethane bushings
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

13. Re: Fw:---Wheel Bearing Failure
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Dash Lights
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

15. Radio Noise
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

16. Re: Fascia Removal
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. RE: Polyurethane bushings
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

18. Tile grout
From: James A Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

19. Re: Fuel octane
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Fuel Octane
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Tile grout
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com

22. RE: Radio Noise
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

23. Re: Fuel Octane
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

24. Fan fixes: Which one?
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

25. AW: Re: Polyurethane bushings
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:38:32 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Front LCA links

Ski - Those links are on Winged1.  I have had them on for about a 
year, and will be removing them soon for inspections.  I want to find 
out if that configuration induces any strange loads into the frame or 
attachments.  My experience with them is that they really enhance the 
consistency of braking and cornering - very stable.  They do increase 
the noise level a bit due to the direct connection btween the 
suspension and the frame.  After the inspections, I will be putting 
them back on after I paint them and make them look a little classier.  
I haven't decided whether I want to promote these to the "DeLorean 
Motoring Public" yet ... that will depend on the inspection results 
and what kind of a price point I could manage.  I'll keep the List 
posted on what I find.

BTW - Thanks for the good words on the TOBY-TAB's.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vegascop1" <vegascop1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Does anyone know who posted the pictures in ref to "Front LCA 
> Links?" I looked that over and I would love to know where I can 
> purchase these! Seems these links make the front end very sturdy, 
> but thats only from the pics.
> 
> Thnx for any info,
> 
> Ski 4649
> 
> PS.
> TOBY Tabs rock!!!!!




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:39:30 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: trans swap

hello
Anyone swapped his auto trans for a manual ? Except trans mounts and 
shifters, what parts are involved ? How diffcult is it ?
thanks a lot
Raphael




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:49:13 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane bushings

Ski - I have installed polyurethane bushings on the front sway bar 
attachment to the frame (saddle bushings), and where the sway bar 
attaches to the lower control arms (donut bushings).  The saddle 
bushings were "off the shelf" parts, with some minor "tweaking" to 
make them work better in the DeLorean application.  The donut bushings 
were modified from radius rod bushings for Honda Civic.  They have 
been thinned down, and the center hole opened up.  This change to 
urethane has made a huge improvement to the handling and stability of 
Winged1, together with the front LCA links mentioned in your other 
post.  From a "fleet perspective", I have beat my head against the 
wall with two major urethane suppliers trying to get a DeLorean 
application of all suspension bushings going.  I'm still trying.  
Email me "offlist" and I can give you some specifics on how I made the 
bushings work in my car.  There is some workmanship required, so don't 
try this at home without a little guidance.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1
TobyP(at)KATEWWDB.com  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vegascop1" <vegascop1_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Has anyone out there had any luck in getting to fit any polyurathane 
> bushings in our cars? I took the front sway bar bushings off and 
> they are very sad. I will wait for about a week and then "research" 
> here we come. Any onfo would be appriciated no matter what bushing 
> you have replaced.
> 
> Thnx for any help!
> 
> Ski 4649




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:02:56 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Polyurethane bushings

Hey, where's the probleme with those donut bushings ?

At least here in Europe simply got to a Ford dealer, pay 4 Euro a piece and
step out.

No need for drilling cutting or something else. Those are like the front
break calipers off a Ford shelf.

Elvis



The donut bushings were modified from radius rod bushings for Honda Civic.
They have
been thinned down, and the center hole opened up.  This change to
urethane has made a huge improvement to the handling and stability of
Winged1, together with the front .....




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 11:09:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fascia Removal

Does anybody know how to get "stripped" bolts out of
the D's front end?  I'm having a problem removing the
fascia due to 3 bolts that just spin with their clips
connecting the fascia to the spoiler grill.  There's
another bolt that does the same with the fascia to
body brackets under the car.  Also, are there other
bolts not mentioned in the workshop manual?  It seems
like she's not budging.

Thanks.

-Sean Mulligan
 vin# 10054

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:32:54 -0000
From: "ceegee1895" <vjca_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Fuel octane

Hi my first post. The question is can I use regular gas instead of 
premium gas. With premium at $1 per liter it is most expensive. Has 
anyone tryed it and were any adjustments made?
Thanks Vic
Vin 1794




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:44:00 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Fuel octane

Doesn't the manual say regular gas ?

I never heared that super (you call it premium) is needed.

Elvis


Betreff: [DML] Fuel octane


Hi my first post. The question is can I use regular gas instead of 
premium gas. With premium at $1 per liter it is most expensive. Has 
anyone tryed it and were any adjustments made?
Thanks Vic
Vin 1794





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:33:09 -0000
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fascia Removal

Hi, I just removed mine the past weekend and had one of these bolts 
spin in the captive nut as you mentioned.  I tried using a hack saw 
with no luck.  The best thing I used was a bolt cutter to cut the 
head off the bolt, it worked and thier was no damage caused to the 
facia by this process.  The head broke loose and the bumper slid off 
with no other problems.  I just need to order the new clips which I 
beleve are worth about 30cents each.  Good luck,

Stephane
Vin2450 Ottawa,Ontario Canada
P.S. If you have any other ?'s regarding the above issue feel free to 
e-mail me svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Does anybody know how to get "stripped" bolts out of
> the D's front end?  I'm having a problem removing the
> fascia due to 3 bolts that just spin with their clips
> connecting the fascia to the spoiler grill.  There's
> another bolt that does the same with the fascia to
> body brackets under the car.  Also, are there other
> bolts not mentioned in the workshop manual?  It seems
> like she's not budging.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Sean Mulligan
>  vin# 10054
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your 
desktop!
> http://platinum.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:01:21 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane bushings

Elvis - The OEM "donut bushings" (p/n 108912) can be had here for 
under $5 US, but they are made of 22 year old rubber.  If you go to a 
Ford dealer and find an equivalent part, it will be better than an NOS 
DeLorean part (probably), but it will still be rubber.  The handling 
improvements come from reducing "induced deflections", which requires 
a stiffer material than rubber for the bushings.  I would be 
interested in finding out what the specific application is for the 
Ford part you're referring to.  I can use the cross-reference when 
talking with urethane suppliers.  Any information would be helpful.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
wrote:
> Hey, where's the probleme with those donut bushings ?
> 
> At least here in Europe simply got to a Ford dealer, pay 4 Euro a 
piece and
> step out.





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 15:43:16 -0700
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Fuel octane

I use regular here in the States. Since you mentioned the price for a
liter, I'm assuming you live in Canada or somewhere overseas.

Here is the exact quote from the owner's manual:
"Fuel Requirements
USA
Your vehicle is designed to operate at factory specifications on UNLEADED
GASOLINE only of at least 87 anti-knock index (R+M/2) (91 research octane
number)."

So, since the USA uses the R+M/2 method to determine the octane rating,
here we use 87 octane. If you live somewhere that uses Research Octane,
then it needs 91. Look on the pump in your area to see which method is
used, and use the appropriate number.

Note: If you live at high altitude (usually above about 3000 feet) the
octane rating will be lower to allow easier firing in the thinner
atmosphere. Here in Salt Lake City (4500 feet), the octane ratings are 85
for regular, and 87 and 89 for mid and premium. My cars all run fine on the
85 since they all specify regular grade gas.

Also, if your car has had a turbo or supercharger added, then ignore all
this and run premium to avoid pinging.

Mark Noeltner
VIN 6820

At 06:32 PM 3/18/2003 -0000, you wrote:
>Hi my first post. The question is can I use regular gas instead of 
>premium gas. With premium at $1 per liter it is most expensive. Has 
>anyone tryed it and were any adjustments made?
>Thanks Vic
>Vin 1794




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:39:37 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Fuel octane

On Tue, 18 Mar 2003, ceegee1895 wrote:

> Hi my first post. The question is can I use regular gas instead of
> premium gas. With premium at $1 per liter it is most expensive. Has
> anyone tryed it and were any adjustments made?

Regular gas, as long as it is unleaded, should be fine.  The PRV is a 
low-compression engine which does not require high octane to run properly.  

If you experience trouble with engine knocking, then use higher octane 
gas.  Otherwise, regular is fine.




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 00:05:53 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Polyurethane bushings


Be advised that a harder bushing material will increase the
NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) of the ride.  It will also
increase the impulse loads into suspension components as there 
will be less compliance in the suspension system.  As Knut's 
car demonstrates, this may not be a good thing...

--
Mike
> Elvis - The OEM "donut bushings" (p/n 108912) can be had here for 
> under $5 US, but they are made of 22 year old rubber.  If you go to a 
> Ford dealer and find an equivalent part, it will be better than an NOS 
> DeLorean part (probably), but it will still be rubber.  The handling 
> improvements come from reducing "induced deflections", which requires 
> a stiffer material than rubber for the bushings.  I would be 
> interested in finding out what the specific application is for the 
> Ford part you're referring to.  I can use the cross-reference when 
> talking with urethane suppliers.  Any information would be helpful.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> 
> wrote:
> > Hey, where's the probleme with those donut bushings ?
> > 
> > At least here in Europe simply got to a Ford dealer, pay 4 Euro a 
> piece and
> > step out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 

> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 00:04:45 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fw:---Wheel Bearing Failure

I too have experienced considerable wheel bearing failures, mostly 
the front, over the years, especially on a car that I didn't drive 
that much and often put away right after I washed it.

Investigation disclosed that water was remaining in the space behind 
the plastic wheel cap and getting into the bearings. I experimented 
with various fixes until I discovered a similar wheel setup on 
another car (I don't remember the type) where the wheels had groves 
cut into the backing for just that purpose - to let water out. It is 
a permanent fix. Keeping the water out has led to no bearing 
failures in a long time now.

Harold McElraft - 3354




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:22:10 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Dash Lights

My right turn light bulb in the dash just burnt out, how easy is it to replace. I know
this bulb is burnt out because the lights do blink outside the car and the hazzard
lights also work but the right dash signal light doesnt light up anymore.

Mark
6683




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:36:37 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Radio Noise

When i was driving my car the other day i was hearing a popping noise coming from the
speakers and i never heard this before. It was the warmest day i have driven my car
because i just got it at the end of February 2003 and i was thinking maybe the cooling
fans cycling was making the noise. I have no fan fail relay, fanzilla or jumpers in its
place could this be a problem or is it something else making my speakers pop with the
radio on?

I do know that i have the wire wrap shield covering my coil wire so i dont think that
could interfere with my stereo.

Mark
6683





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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:19:53 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fascia Removal

In a message dated 3/18/03 2:35:06 PM Central Standard Time, 
sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


> Does anybody know how to get "stripped" bolts out of
> the D's front end?  I'm having a problem removing the
> fascia due to 3 bolts that just spin with their clips
> connecting the fascia to the spoiler grill.

I used a hacksaw and cut the heads off. a Dremel might work too.

Andy
Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:46:11 -0500
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Polyurethane bushings

Sway Bar Bushings Front Frame: Summit Racing. Polyurethane. ENS-9-5123G. 19mm $15.69 a pair
I have these installed in my car and they are a direct bolt up replacement.
Jim 6147

 
"vegascop1" <vegascop1_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

>Has anyone out there had any luck in getting to fit any polyurathane 
>bushings in our cars? I took the front sway bar bushings off and 
>they are very sad. I will wait for about a week and then "research" 
>here we come. Any onfo would be appriciated no matter what bushing 
>you have replaced.
>
>Thnx for any help!
>
>Ski 4649
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>
>



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:53:18 -0500
From: James A Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Tile grout


Just noticed something interested at Home Depot- tile grout mix that
comes in the color "Delorean gray"

Jim

________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 03:55:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel octane

If you want to try lower octane fuel you will need to adjust the
distributer to retard the timming to prevent knocking. You should try
it under high loads, like up a hill with the engine hot on a hot day.
If it knocks you have to retard more. Retarding the spark will
decrease mileage and power so you quickly reach a point of diminishing
returns. Unless there is a large difference between the grades you are
better off trying to stay with the higher grade. Higher than 91 won't
do much so you don't have to put any higher octane in than required.
Most of us don't drive the car all that much anyway so it doesn't
matter anyway the Delorean, when it is running right, gets pretty
decent mileage, in the area of 22-26 mpg depending on driving style,
state of tune, and highway or city. Hold on to your wallet, gas prices
are about to take a jump anyway!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ceegee1895" <vjca_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hi my first post. The question is can I use regular gas instead of 
> premium gas. With premium at $1 per liter it is most expensive. Has 
> anyone tryed it and were any adjustments made?
> Thanks Vic
> Vin 1794




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 02:37:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Fuel Octane

Much confusion about octane. Measures ability to compress fuel mixture
without premature detonation. Does NOT measure "burnability" or any
other characteristic.

Stock PRV is 8.8:1 compression ratio. Certainly higher than some cars
produced today, but not high enough to require premium grade. I shoot
my spark a little closer to TDC than factory spec (high energy
ignition), so burn 89 octane to avoid ocassional valve clatter.

For comparison, have a 1969 Lincoln with 11:1 compression. Will not
run on less than 97 octane (added by the bottle).

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:37:21 EST
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Tile grout

Jim,
 Got it in my kitchen. Yes, it is close to the correct color.
Bruce Battles
]Vin 06569
RNDOMTA



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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:47:10 -0600
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Radio Noise

my speakers popped when the inline fuse for the auto antenna was broken and
making loose connections.

-----Original Message-----
From: id [mailto:ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 6:37 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Radio Noise


When i was driving my car the other day i was hearing a popping noise coming
from the
speakers and i never heard this before. It was the warmest day i have driven
my car
because i just got it at the end of February 2003 and i was thinking maybe
the cooling
fans cycling was making the noise. I have no fan fail relay, fanzilla or
jumpers in its
place could this be a problem or is it something else making my speakers pop
with the
radio on?

I do know that i have the wire wrap shield covering my coil wire so i dont
think that
could interfere with my stereo.

Mark
6683




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:09:04 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Octane

This has been brought up before but to avoid confusion about octane ratings
you should understand that octane ratings ARE directly related to the
combustibility of the fuel. Higher compression in the combustion chamber
means higher temperatures which require a fuel that ignites and burns at a
slower more controlable rate. This would be a high octane fuel. When you
hear the engine ping or knock it's not the valves rattling, it's the piston
and rod bearings reacting to a pre-ignition occurring because the high temp
in the combustion chamber has ignited the fuel before the spark plug fired
and the piston is still on the up stroke, way too far ahead of the 13
degrees before top dead center than the DeLorean requires. If you continue
to use a high octane slower burning fuel in a car that doesn't require it
the slow burn will eventually create carbon deposits in the combustion
chamber. These deposits take up space and result in raising the compression
ratio. In other words your car can, over a period of time, become dependent
on high octane fuel.

Bruce Benson
vin 6870

> Much confusion about octane. Measures ability to compress fuel mixture
> without premature detonation. Does NOT measure "burnability" or any
> other characteristic.
 I shoot
> my spark a little closer to TDC than factory spec (high energy
> ignition), so burn 89 octane to avoid ocassional valve clatter.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 07:01:48 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Fan fixes: Which one?

There seems to be several fan fixes available.  Special T has the
Fan-Fix One, Fan-Fix Two and Fan-Fix Dual 2X2, and others. Then there
is the FanZilla from Grady's. There's probably more offered by the
other DMC vendors as well.  I'm sure they are all excellent products,
but my question is which one I should use.  My car has the "temporary"
fix in lieu of the blue fan-fail relay module, but it does exhibit the
classic engine power loss whenever the A/C compressor kicks in. I know
that FanZilla is supposed to remedy this plus reduce the load on the
cooling fan circuit and so are the other products.  So which one
should I use?  Do they each have a certain advantage over the next
one?  Thanks.

Richard
5853 




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:37:58 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Re: Polyurethane bushings

Toby,

the bushing is FORD 1652910, used in an Escort and maybe several others.
I'm not sure if you get them in the states.

Do you really think it makes a big difference if this is made from rubber
or polyurethan ? I mean - hit the break and see how the lower control arm
moves around. Before playing with that piece of rubber it would also be
necessarry to stiffen that control arm somehow (not only by the sway bar).

Another question - why do the front wheels always wear out on the outside
faster ? Is this just setup or a design flaw ?

Elvis

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Toby Peterson [mailto:tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 18. März 2003 23:01
An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [DML] Re: Polyurethane bushings


Elvis - The OEM "donut bushings" (p/n 108912) can be had here for
under $5 US, but they are made of 22 year old rubber.  If you go to a
Ford dealer and find an equivalent part, it will be better than an NOS
DeLorean part (probably), but it will still be rubber.  The handling
improvements come from reducing "induced deflections", which requires
a stiffer material than rubber for the bushings.  I would be
interested in finding out what the specific application is for the
Ford part you're referring to.  I can use the cross-reference when
talking with urethane suppliers.  Any information would be helpful.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
> Hey, where's the probleme with those donut bushings ?
>
> At least here in Europe simply got to a Ford dealer, pay 4 Euro a
piece and
> step out.




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